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SkunkDuster posted:Thanks. The Clear Flex 95 looks like it should work and I sent them a message to see what other similar options they might recommend. Not to pull you completely away from this route, because if you put the time and effort in you'll end up with a much better product, but the part you showed us can pretty easily be done with any decent direct drive fdm printer. Printing TPU has its own unique set of challenges but all of them are easier to overcome than the learning curve involved with molding parts. And if you're making a bunch of them, it's going to be more time efficient in the long run.
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Jun 23, 2022 15:24
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Anyone have opinions on the new ender 3 s1? Looking to start fleshing out the number of filament printers I have and It checks off a lot of boxes. I have an ender3 and a Prusa mk3s, like then both, but honestly for what I'm looking at (printing lots of stuff for side gig), I'd rather spend the money on 2-3 printers over another prusa Obviously a big voron 2.4 is an end goal, but we're talking 2.5k CAD vs 500 for a stepping stone in the meantime...
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Jun 23, 2022 17:06
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Captain Kosmos posted:Mostly I want to decide myself how big the printer itself is. Thinking 30*30*30cm so it fits snugly into one of those Ikea shelves. Run into Voron almost imminently after writing that, but couldn't figure out can you build them custom-sized or what. At work, so don't really have time really go into it. Roughly any printer can be pretty readily altered to meet that sort of footprint. That said "a printer in a 30cm cube" isn't gonna be much. You're going to be looking at 50-100mm of vertical depending on head/gantry/etc and not much more than 140mm bed. The configuration tool for most of the vorons allows custom sizes. And it will tell you the external dimensions. But it's rare that a printer can be "just the size" without some clerances for filament feed and electronics cooling. This feels like an aesthetic choice that might lead to a pretty poor printing experience.
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Jun 23, 2022 17:25
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sharkytm posted:It was me. Whoops, missed they wanted Shore A, not D.
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Jun 23, 2022 21:46
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone have opinions on the new ender 3 s1? Looking to start fleshing out the number of filament printers I have and It checks off a lot of boxes.
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Jun 23, 2022 22:16
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone have opinions on the new ender 3 s1? Looking to start fleshing out the number of filament printers I have and It checks off a lot of boxes. I looked at that but ended up pre-ordering two Elegoo Neptune 3s for a little bit more. The N2 is great. E: I am unreasonably excited to able to have an LCD on a cord so I can bring it closer to actually be able to read it.  https://www.elegoo.com/products/elegoo-neptune-3-fdm-3d-printer Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Jun 23, 2022 |
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Jun 23, 2022 23:07
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Yeah unless you have a very specific need for a prusa mini, you want a build plate of at least 200x200; the 225x225 is just barely big enough to print 80% of what I want to print without needing to split it into pieces and glue them together. A big reason (besides the 5x print heads) I want the Prusa XL is because it has a 360x360x360 print volume. a 100x100x100 print volume will be fine for printing G.I. Joe figurines and not much largerilkhan posted:Vorons can be whatever size you want, within the limits of the design. There's a parts list maker that takes your size into account and spits out a list of everything you need. This is super cool, spec'd out a 420x420x700 voron 2.4 in about 30 seconds in a great big spreadsheet with links to the parts from three different suppliers for most things
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Jun 24, 2022 05:36
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Should have done 420x420x690 
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Jun 24, 2022 07:27
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Rexxed posted:It kind of depends what you're going for, but in general, building your own will be more expensive than buying a printer. At least that's true if you get something like a creality or another less expensive brand of prebuilt printer. A lot of the build your own stuff are for higher performance setups like the Voron where you're buying high quality parts so you get a really solid motion system with linear rails instead of rollers in v-slot aluminum or what have you. They're generally designed to print fast so spending a grand or more on one saves you time while printing. Not while building, though. ilkhan posted:Vorons can be whatever size you want, within the limits of the design. There's a parts list maker that takes your size into account and spits out a list of everything you need. Nerobro posted:Roughly any printer can be pretty readily altered to meet that sort of footprint. That said "a printer in a 30cm cube" isn't gonna be much. You're going to be looking at 50-100mm of vertical depending on head/gantry/etc and not much more than 140mm bed. Dr. Fishopolis posted:Voron or Hypercube. Building a custom is usually done because you have a specific need in mind, or you want a really fast corexy. If you're just looking for something that will fit in a specific place, probably don't go this route. 30cm cubed is not much total volume for a printer, your bed size will be pretty limited. Having multiple kids and a small apartment doesn't leave much extra room. My work desk is the kitchen table, can't leave anything really out and feel that the 30cm cube is big as I can go, all the shelves are narrow so they don't eat much of the space. Have an older Weedo Tina2 with 100*120*100mm volume, so the "cube" would probably be upgrade. Looks like there's now good answer. One would be just leave printer at my workplace and print there. I sometimes now take my printer there so I cant print longer prints in peace. Some people may get cranky about it. Some people may get cranky about it thought. In other news, bought some filament and can't get the white one print properly.  Is that from heat or what?
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Jun 24, 2022 16:58
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Captain Kosmos posted:Having multiple kids and a small apartment doesn't leave much extra room. My work desk is the kitchen table, can't leave anything really out and feel that the 30cm cube is big as I can go, all the shelves are narrow so they don't eat much of the space. If your willing to go hog wild, there's always the positron printer. Small/portable, big print volume https://youtu.be/X_QLxTVtyng
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Jun 24, 2022 17:12
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Cube kind of looks like too much retraction
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Jun 24, 2022 17:22
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Captain Kosmos posted:Having multiple kids and a small apartment doesn't leave much extra room. My work desk is the kitchen table, can't leave anything really out and feel that the 30cm cube is big as I can go, all the shelves are narrow so they don't eat much of the space. Why are you looking to upgrade? You're not going to fit anything better than one of those "kids mini printer" things in that space unless you build a $1000+ custom, which seems like probably overkill. If you need better prints, you're probably better off finding a makerspace or ordering them in the long run. A prusa mini is really the smallest "good" 3d printer I'd consider and it's too big. Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Jun 24, 2022 |
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Jun 24, 2022 17:58
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Hadlock posted:Cube kind of looks like too much retraction Dr. Fishopolis posted:Why are you looking to upgrade? You're not going to fit anything better than one of those "kids mini printer" things in that space unless you build a $1000+ custom, which seems like probably overkill. If you need better prints, you're probably better off finding a makerspace or ordering them in the long run. A prusa mini is really the smallest "good" 3d printer I'd consider and it's too big. More material to use mostly, I'd like to use this to make small parts for cars and bikes, so the possibility to print heat-resistant and/or UV-resistant materials would be good, also harder material if printing gears, etc. This doesn't have a heated bed, there's a socket for it, but it would need hacked firmware and the power doesn't push enough wats. Faster prints would be nice also.
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Jun 24, 2022 18:25
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Captain Kosmos posted:Googled the manufacturer (Velleman), and other people have dropped the temp and lowered the flow. How much are you willing to spend? Engineering filaments generally require more than just a heated bed, especially if it's going in an engine compartment. Most also create toxic fumes, require a heated chamber and all-metal hotend, and require ventilation to the outside. Does your shelf system have a way to set up a fume hood or equivalent?
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Jun 24, 2022 18:36
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Has anyone done anything like 3D printing a VW bug fender mold in parts, assembled the parts, then formed fiberglass/cf over the printed mold? There's one airbox sized example online that pops up but it's like 6x14" and the physics of those two different sizes of molds seems like they would be completely different
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Jun 24, 2022 19:01
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Whoops, missed they wanted Shore A, not D. I'm not dead set one way or the other, I just know about how hard I want it to be. It will take some experimentation. The trial size bottles are plenty big enough to make several prototype pieces. I'll have enough of a profit margin that if I have to spend $300 to find the right silicon and resin, I'll make that back before too long. Plus, I'll have a bunch of different types of resin if I ever need to cast something else. Whether I go with a filament printer or resin casting, there is going to be a learning curve either way. I'm going with resin casting because of the better finish on the final product and lower entry cost.
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Jun 24, 2022 19:40
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Hadlock posted:Has anyone done anything like 3D printing a VW bug fender mold in parts, assembled the parts, then formed fiberglass/cf over the printed mold? There's one airbox sized example online that pops up but it's like 6x14" and the physics of those two different sizes of molds seems like they would be completely different The closest thing I can think of is the project binky channel on youtube had someone 3D print fender flares for them out of PLA. They sanded/primed/painted them.. not fiberglass. Also I doubt very sturdy.
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Jun 24, 2022 20:37
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My Ender 3 keeps stopping outputting filament somewhere in the first few minutes of a print. It's been giving me a lot of grief lately, I fixed the thermal runaway issue I was getting at ABS temps and did some PLA prints that came out fine, after I replaced the whole hotend. I then tried some .12mm layer height stuff in ABS at 100% infill that came out pretty stringy and brittle, but did actually manage the whole 8 hour print. Now I'm getting the issue where it puts down part of the base layer and then just stops putting out filament, so I come back and the head is just hovering in space with a partially finished base layer on the build plate. At first it seemed to be the filament spool binding (the holder I have screwed in to the top of the LACK enclosure is starting to sag and I can't find the long bolts I bought to reinforce it). I propped it up on the other side and it now seems OK, this morning's failed print didn't seem to have an unreasonable amount of tension on the part of the filament inside the enclosure. What should I be checking next? I could tell the nozzle was too close to the bed, could that be causing a clog? Have reset the Z-limit and re-leveled, doing a test print now. edit: so far, so good... Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Jun 24, 2022 |
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Jun 24, 2022 20:39
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Captain Kosmos posted:Having multiple kids and a small apartment doesn't leave much extra room. My work desk is the kitchen table, can't leave anything really out and feel that the 30cm cube is big as I can go, all the shelves are narrow so they don't eat much of the space. Starting off with the most useful bit. "It's or what". White filament is packed full of titanium dioxide. White probally should be considered a filled filament.. it's.. not something you want to try to really deal with if you don't NEED to. White is hard. That said, what i'm seeing htere, makes me think you're underextruding. The biggest thing I"m running into, is a 30cm cube, darned near is the size of a spool. "it can be done" but it's gonna be a real trick. I mean even my Monoprice Mini Delta is 41cm tall. mewse posted:The closest thing I can think of is the project binky channel on youtube had someone 3D print fender flares for them out of PLA. They sanded/primed/painted them.. not fiberglass. Also I doubt very sturdy. Ivan Miranda. You should know the name. https://www.youtube.com/c/IvanMirandaCom Ethics_Gradient posted:My Ender 3 keeps stopping outputting filament somewhere in the first few minutes of a print. You've not said anything near enough to diagnose. We need to know temps, material, and modifications, and ideally a photo of the failure. ~as a rule of thumb~ "my print stops working as it gets higher" is to low of a temp. It's ~never~ spool binding, and if fixing that "make the problem go away" there's another problem in line.
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Jun 24, 2022 22:54
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Nerobro posted:You've not said anything near enough to diagnose. We need to know temps, material, and modifications, and ideally a photo of the failure. ~as a rule of thumb~ "my print stops working as it gets higher" is to low of a temp. It's ~never~ spool binding, and if fixing that "make the problem go away" there's another problem in line. It's funny you say this, because I just went downstairs to it not putting filament out, and it was the spool. The filament coming from the tube at the top of the enclosure to the extruder was taut, and adding some play to it caused the nozzle to start putting out filament again pretty much immediately. There seems to be a rough spot on the thing that holds the spool, I've tried rotating it around to where it's smooth to see if that was the issue. ABS, 240/105, metal extruder probably the only relevant mod in this case. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 07:44 on Sep 9, 2022 |
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Jun 24, 2022 23:00
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Ethics_Gradient posted:It's funny you say this, because I just went downstairs to it not putting filament out, and it was the spool. The filament coming from the tube at the top of the enclosure to the extruder was taught, and adding some play to it caused the nozzle to start putting out filament again pretty much immediately. You should look ~real carefully~ at your enclosure. That extruder has a lot of pull. I happily run my prints with spools just sitting on the floor, or laying on a desk. There's plenty of pull. A simple fix, is to use a bowden tube to go from the filament to the extruder. As long as it's one peice, it's really tricky to get enough friction that it can be a problem. quote:ABS, 240/105, metal extruder probably the only relevant mod in this case. That's low on the ABS temps. 250 will reduce backpressure. And I think the relevant mod is the enclosure itself. That's where the photo comes in.
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Jun 24, 2022 23:11
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I've seen people wrapping Teflon tape over their spool holders to reduce friction. I didn't notice much difference myself, but if your spool holder/axle is binding (and not the filament in the spool being stuck), that might help.
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Jun 24, 2022 23:32
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I put printed bearings / actual bearings on both of my printer's spool holders. Any resistance to the extruder and it could potentially add to extrusion issues. Must optimize everythinggggg I just installed klipper on my ender 3 v2 last night and have spent the last day getting it tuned up. Pretty happy with it so far!
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Jun 25, 2022 00:22
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Hadlock posted:Has anyone done anything like 3D printing a VW bug fender mold in parts, assembled the parts, then formed fiberglass/cf over the printed mold? There's one airbox sized example online that pops up but it's like 6x14" and the physics of those two different sizes of molds seems like they would be completely different I thought I saw a guy doing that for a skidoo, but can't find it. Ramy RC does it a a lot for his very large RC models: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=znJmVndhLJ4 I've made mold plugs on a smaller scale and it's handy for complex shapes. Just be aware that it still entails a lot of post processing. (filler, sanding, rinse repeat)
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Jun 25, 2022 03:10
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gbut posted:I've seen people wrapping Teflon tape over their spool holders to reduce friction. I didn't notice much difference myself, but if your spool holder/axle is binding (and not the filament in the spool being stuck), that might help. Opinionated posted:I put printed bearings / actual bearings on both of my printer's spool holders. Any resistance to the extruder and it could potentially add to extrusion issues. Must optimize everythinggggg Ok, I need to do this again. Stop trying to optimize the feed side. It needs to have moderate friction, you need to have the spool, as much as you can, keep the filament tense on it. You need to have the filament constrained, so it doesn't do anything "dumb". The SINGLE wheel extruder on an ender, is strong enough to pick the printer off the ground. You want "consistent" drag, not "low" drag. Even ~fairly high~ drag is fine, because extruders can pull really hard. The higher the friction, the less the "normal changes" will affect the actual push force on the hotend. Also worth noting, Voron doesn't specify anything special with their spool holders. They put some teflon tube on the "peg" to stop wear. So.. Stop.
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Jun 25, 2022 04:59
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Any of you nerds attending the Midwest reprap festival this weekend?
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Jun 25, 2022 05:11
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Hadlock posted:Has anyone done anything like 3D printing a VW bug fender mold in parts, assembled the parts, then formed fiberglass/cf over the printed mold? There's one airbox sized example online that pops up but it's like 6x14" and the physics of those two different sizes of molds seems like they would be completely different For this size of project, most folks go with a CNC router. You can make such large parts so fast. It’s not a bad idea if that’s the tool you’ve got, but CNC is the way to go.
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Jun 25, 2022 06:11
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I thought I saw a guy doing that for a skidoo, but can't find it. I always liked the concept of 3d printing a mould for forged carbon fiber parts but haven't found a use for it personally. It's a cool idea for small parts, though: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25PmqM24HEk
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Jun 25, 2022 06:53
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Rexxed posted:I always liked the concept of 3d printing a mould for forged carbon fiber parts but haven't found a use for it personally. It's a cool idea for small parts, though: This companies whole youtube channel is really good. Agressively good. It covers so many aspects of composites.
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Jun 25, 2022 07:03
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Nerobro posted:Ok, I need to do this again. Good to know, thank you. I was trying to solve an issue I had with my drying box. I got one of those without a heater, just a desiccant compartment, but it had a Bowden for feeding the filament. I'm sure it wasn't even necessary to have the tube finally the way to the extruder, but it came with it, so i installed it. After many prints, I noticed that there was some severe under-extrusion. With further investigation, I found the extruder gear covered in filament dust, as well as everything around it. The box feed somehow jammed, and I was barely able to pull it through the tube with my hands. It felt like I was about to break off the filament. I could not determine what actually caused the issue in the end. After dismantling the box and the feed setup, i could not replicate the jam. The tube was ok. The box has bearing rollers. The filament was not burning inside the spool, etc. So, yeah, as much as i believe 100% what you're saying, and as much as the extruder might have enough force to lift the printer, in my personal experience, if the jam is stubborn enough, the inadequate grip of the extruder will just grind the filament away if it can't overcome the problem.
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Jun 25, 2022 19:03
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Tremors posted:Any of you nerds attending the Midwest reprap festival this weekend? hiyo
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Jun 25, 2022 19:09
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So on trying to take things apart, it seems like the ABS filament is getting stuck in the Bowden tube after a while; after removing it from the hotend, I have to use locking pliers and a fair bit of force to pull it out. This seems to have happened with two different Bowden tubes (different manufacturers, even). I can put a new length off the same roll in and it moves freely, but it seems like after ~15-20 minutes of printing it swells up and gets stuck. Am going to try with a new filament and see if that fixes it. That'll have to be my last hurrah for now; I am extremely time poor in the lead up to going overseas on Saturday (was hoping to have a few lensboards ready to go for the camera that's waiting for me over there), but worst case I got enough of a base layer yesterday that I can use it as a template to trace a few out on 3mm ply and cut them with my jig saw.
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Jun 25, 2022 22:23
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Ethics_Gradient posted:So on trying to take things apart, it seems like the ABS filament is getting stuck in the Bowden tube after a while; after removing it from the hotend, I have to use locking pliers and a fair bit of force to pull it out. This seems to have happened with two different Bowden tubes (different manufacturers, even). Might be heat creep. I'd make sure your hotend fan is spinning and that nothing is touching the heat block that shouldn't be.
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Jun 25, 2022 23:24
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Rexxed posted:Might be heat creep. I'd make sure your hotend fan is spinning and that nothing is touching the heat block that shouldn't be. Fans seem fine, I was having an issue with the bowden tube touching the hotend (my understanding is you want it somewhere between "as close as possible so the filament is less likely to clog" and "not so close that it picks up a lot of heat and melts") but it seems OK now, could always give it a small adjustment back. I have one of those IR themometers somewhere, would that be useful for troubleshooting heat creep or not so much? So far it's gotten further than it ever has with the new filament (opened a new spool), so hoping that does the trick for now.
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Jun 26, 2022 00:09
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I had to add Teflon tape to my spool holder because it was going "wonk" when I loaded cardboard spools. It tricked me into tearing my x-axis apart when I didn't need to.
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Jun 26, 2022 03:24
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Ethics_Gradient posted:(my understanding is you want it somewhere between "as close as possible so the filament is less likely to clog" and "not so close that it picks up a lot of heat and melts") Most generic PTFE tubing also conveniently starts to break down right around 240C. You're probably working towards cooking the tube if you're printing that hot, so not only can it deform, but if you've left any kind of gap in there it's eventually (or already) going to start closing up and/or allowing molten filament into that gap and gumming up the whole works. No matter what the advertising says, unfortunately not all printers are capable of running ABS out of the box. PETG temperatures are cutting it close for a lot of them, and ABS often has to be run too hot for many of them to handle through a stock extrusion system.
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Jun 26, 2022 03:26
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 Eh, close enough. I've gotten those blisters/bumps before, they're very subtle in terms of actual size and it doesn't really matter for this kind of print. I definitely didn't clean the bed as well as I could have given I'd figured there was a decent chance the print would fail. Acid Reflux posted:On most common Bowden-fed hot ends, the end of the tubing needs to be cut as straight as possible and then pushed down through the throat until it's butted right up against the back side of the nozzle. Regardless of the type of hot end, there's no circumstance where you want a gap of any kind in the path between the filament entry point and the nozzle. Wherever you picked up that tidbit is a pretty terrible source of information. I may well have added that last one myself, it seemed like a had melted part of the bowden tube at one point. I just had a look and found some people on Reddit suggesting a high heat bowden tube for ABS (all I'd seen previously was "make sure you have an enclosure and use the right settings"), so I might order a length of that to be safe. I don't think I've ever actually had it back up behind the nozzle and clog yet, fortunately.
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Jun 26, 2022 05:42
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I'd consider an all metal hotend if you're printing high temperature materials a lot. They're not too expensive and the bowden tube attaches at the top so it doesn't get hot. They have a metal heat break between the bowden tube and the back of the nozzle so the PTFE won't break down since it's cool enough past the heatsink on the hotend. PTFE overheating and breaking down isn't just bad for the printer longevity but also because it can cause toxic fumes.
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Jun 26, 2022 06:12
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gbut posted:Good to know, thank you. The exception that proves the rule. Sure, if you knot your filament you're gonna grind it up. I'm glad you got that sorted out. Acid Reflux posted:On most common Bowden-fed hot ends, the end of the tubing needs to be cut as straight as possible and then pushed down through the throat until it's butted right up against the back side of the nozzle. Regardless of the type of hot end, there's no circumstance where you want a gap of any kind in the path between the filament entry point and the nozzle. Wherever you picked up that tidbit is a pretty terrible source of information. This is most likely what's going on. Most of the heat creep examples I've seen are "this sort of problem". It's almost ~never~ heat creep. If it's got a modern hot end on it? V6? MK8? It's not heat creep. Ethics_Gradient posted:
You're overextruding a bit. And you could probally use another top layer.
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Jun 26, 2022 06:21
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Rexxed posted:I'd consider an all metal hotend if you're printing high temperature materials a lot. They're not too expensive and the bowden tube attaches at the top so it doesn't get hot. They have a metal heat break between the bowden tube and the back of the nozzle so the PTFE won't break down since it's cool enough past the heatsink on the hotend. PTFE overheating and breaking down isn't just bad for the printer longevity but also because it can cause toxic fumes. If you have any pets in the house, you really need to do this. PTFE fumes are very toxic, especially to birds and small animals.
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Jun 26, 2022 06:23
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