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Nyyen posted:They are fully resting on the rotors, front and rear. quote:Loosening the mounting bolts and grabbing some brake while re-tightening them hasn't helped sadly. Ime, that doesn't help if your bolts are shifting the caliper in the last couple Nm to spec.
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Jun 26, 2022 00:45
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kimbo305 posted:Full face? How are you sighting the contact? This would be rare unless you're using those ball washers that come with BB7s -- maybe the caliper got tilted somehow, so it's top edge of one and bottom edge of the other. Would look full from the top. The Hy/Rd has ver limited visibility of the pads because of the design. As near as I can see from below they are in contiuous contact front and rear, at least at the lower edge of the pads. Impossible to see elsewhere really. I can't detect any tilt in the calipers either.
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Jun 26, 2022 01:00
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I guess a question we haven't asked is: if you lift a wheel off the ground and spin it, how much braking force are the pads actually applying? If you go to move the wheel with your hand, is it sticking from the brakes? If it's not seriously dragging I would just go for a couple rides and it'll wear itself down and you'll be fine.
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Jun 26, 2022 04:00
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VelociBacon posted:I guess a question we haven't asked is: if you lift a wheel off the ground and spin it, how much braking force are the pads actually applying? If you go to move the wheel with your hand, is it sticking from the brakes? It will coast a bit. Wouldn't that possibly cook the pads though?
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Jun 26, 2022 14:54
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Nyyen posted:It will coast a bit. Wouldn't that possibly cook the pads though? No
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Jun 26, 2022 16:01
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Ok,, I was able to take them in at the shop where I got the pads and we confirmed the e-bike pads the sold me were a little thicker than the normal pads. They traded me for another normal set and that seemed to do it. Nyyen fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Jun 26, 2022 |
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Jun 26, 2022 16:43
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my artisanal stem got no business almost killing me
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Jul 6, 2022 21:32
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TenementFunster posted:my artisanal stem got no business almost killing me Typical Thomson quality
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Jul 6, 2022 21:39
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bicievino posted:Typical Thomson quality
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Jul 6, 2022 21:46
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Coulda split your seatpost like a banana, too, for the classic Thomson Double
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Jul 6, 2022 21:54
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How did Thomson get such a solid reputation with such poor quality? I bought a seatpost clamp from them that was at least 3mm wider in diameter than advertised. A $5 no name one was within 0.1mm of spec.
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Jul 9, 2022 15:18
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Was it printed with the size? Like it was 34.9 but labeled as 31.8?
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Jul 9, 2022 15:36
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amenenema posted:How did Thomson get such a solid reputation with such poor quality? Just ignore the fact that torque specs are for clean dry threads, but it would be stupid to leave most bike fasteners dry for any long period of time. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Jul 9, 2022 |
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Jul 9, 2022 16:06
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CopperHound posted:Just ignore the fact that torque specs are for clean dry threads, 
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Jul 9, 2022 16:18
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amenenema posted:How did Thomson get such a solid reputation with such poor quality? I bought a seatpost clamp from them that was at least 3mm wider in diameter than advertised. A $5 no name one was within 0.1mm of spec. Made in USA pride (  ) going hand in hand with people refusing to believe that 3D-forged Taiwanese stems are better in every way. The seatposts are distinctive looking at least and are featured in 99.999999% of radavist photo shoots
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Jul 9, 2022 16:23
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Clark Nova posted:Made in USA pride ( I think this is spot on. It's similar to how when Velocity rims moved from Australia to USA and the quality went completely to hell, they still managed to ride on that prior reputation for years and years.
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Jul 9, 2022 16:30
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I used to run a Thomson seatpost clamp and it was fine, but when I got a new one for some reason they replaced the bolt with a ridiculous little m3 or something.  Chucked it in and got a Salsa clamp instead (the poor man's Phil) 
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Jul 9, 2022 16:38
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Does that say 2.8NM? Why is their torque spec so much lower than every other clamp I’ve encountered?
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Jul 9, 2022 16:52
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Clark Nova posted:Does that say 2.8NM? Why is their torque spec so much lower than every other clamp I’ve encountered?
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Jul 9, 2022 17:38
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CopperHound posted:So they can blame you for over-tightening it when you break it. 
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Jul 10, 2022 02:43
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The only way 2.8Nm is holding my seatpost up is if it's loving welded into the frame Maybe I should replace my Thomson seatpost with something forged, the real way to make a part...
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Jul 10, 2022 03:05
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Clark Nova posted:Made in USA pride ( also after spending 3 hours having to resize a new chain, run a new shifter cable, and adjust the replacement Force RD, i put shitload of red loctite on the derailleur screw. sure, i’ll never get it off ever again, but neither will anyone else. the bottle cage screws for the King Cages i coated in spray-on bedliner got the same loctite treatment
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Jul 10, 2022 05:18
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I’m looking for a little guidance on adjusting the suspension on my mountain ebike for the first time. The problem is it has generic components so I cant find directions for it. I’m not even sure if the front shocks are air or spring. I’m looking to make the suspension softer for offroad. Here are some pics:    So the rear suspension spring I figured out that twisting it adjusts the length, so I made it longer, to eliminate play it had (the rear wheel would drop a little when lifting the bike off the ground). Not sure if thats how I should have it. Is that the only adjustment on it? But the front forks are probably more of a problem. I have to put as much weight on the wheel as I can to get the shocks to move less than an inch, and it doesnt retract much. I’d like the shocks to go down a lot more and come up the same. The right side adjustment I see just locks the fork so it doesnt move. The left side adjustment, with the plus and minus, seems to adjust how much weight is needed to move it. Im not sure. Not sure if you’re supposed to pump air into them. Not sure if they’re just starting to freeze up or if they’re just worn out. But there’s only about 700 miles on the bike. I know they’re cheap parts so my expectations are low. But any tips will be appreciated.
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Jul 11, 2022 22:50
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ChocNitty posted:I’m looking for a little guidance on adjusting the suspension on my mountain ebike for the first time. The problem is it has generic components so I cant find directions for it. I’m not even sure if the front shocks are air or spring. I’m looking to make the suspension softer for offroad. Here are some pics: Those are both spring suspension. Turning the rear shock and turning the knob on the fork adjusts the preload on the springs, which is the closest you can get to changing how stiff they are without replacing the springs. It sounds like the rear shock was unscrewed to the point that the spring was loose, causing the slack that you noticed when you picked it up. If you turn the knob on the fork in the "-" direction (should be counter clockwise, like you're unscrewing it) until it stops that will be as soft as you can get it without changing springs.
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Jul 11, 2022 22:59
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Saw this bike cleaning video from the Legion bike racing head mechanic https://youtu.be/C73heVMUI_I Seems way off the mark in lots of ways vs. accepted knowledge, and seems especially far from the mark via what I’d expect for a “pro” cycling team. - Putting degreaser all over your rear hub, BB & derailleur pulley wheels. - Cleaning the chain with just a paintbrush with degreaser on it, vs. Immersion in the correct solvents off the bike. - Using an oil based chain lube at all.
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Jul 12, 2022 13:49
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wooger posted:Saw this bike cleaning video from the Legion bike racing head mechanic https://youtu.be/C73heVMUI_I It's a tool to do a job, they seem to be maintaining it fine. With a tool you have to assume you're going to replace important parts or the whole tool regularly and you'll balance the time and resources you spend on maintenance against that.
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Jul 12, 2022 14:57
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wooger posted:Saw this bike cleaning video from the Legion bike racing head mechanic https://youtu.be/C73heVMUI_I Nice job getting bodied when you posted this to Reddit
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Jul 12, 2022 16:22
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Pro racing cleaning and mechanic work isn’t the same as regular persons. They’re constantly doing it and regreasing and lubing things and at least in mountain bike XC it’s not uncommon to completely degrease bearings in the bottom bracket for instance and relube with a light oil to lessen the friction. They don’t need that to last months or years, just one race before they tear it down and redo it all again Basically pro mechanics aren’t really working within the same parameters as regular people edit: to be clear, I should have watched the video and did not and it sounds like he's talking about regular 'ol bike washing, I was reacting to the idea that pro mechanics don't know how to wash bikes or follow "best practices" lol Levitate fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Jul 12, 2022 |
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Jul 12, 2022 16:53
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wooger posted:Saw this bike cleaning video from the Legion bike racing head mechanic https://youtu.be/C73heVMUI_I That's a great vid and covers race bike prep in pretty good detail succinctly. I don't think I've seen a better presented video on the subject. Park Tool videos with Calvin might be the closest thing, but you'd have to sit through several videos to get this much insight.
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Jul 12, 2022 17:53
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Is there any fear the degreaser can creep into the sealed bearings and cause issues? I imagine those are serviced or swapped more regularly, but is that schedule part of why they can just hose down the degreased parts right next to bearings?
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Jul 12, 2022 18:20
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Dog Case posted:Those are both spring suspension. Turning the rear shock and turning the knob on the fork adjusts the preload on the springs, which is the closest you can get to changing how stiff they are without replacing the springs. It sounds like the rear shock was unscrewed to the point that the spring was loose, causing the slack that you noticed when you picked it up. Cool. Thanks for the help!
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Jul 20, 2022 19:34
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I have got a Sora 3503 triple, and a BB RS500 bracket, which doesn't come with spacers. Do I need spacers for a triple crank? There's a seal-side cover type spacer on my current working setup, which could be #6 on this diagram?: http://www.sjscycles.com/Drawings/Shimano/Shimano_Sora_FC-3503_Tech_Doc.pdf Without that cover, I see about 2, 2.5mm of loose spindle when I bottom out the preload cap.
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Jul 25, 2022 19:07
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kimbo305 posted:I have got a Sora 3503 triple, and a BB RS500 bracket, which doesn't come with spacers. Do I need spacers for a triple crank? There's a seal-side cover type spacer on my current working setup, which could be #6 on this diagram?: I've done this once more than a year ago but I think Shimano has a special kit of spacers for road triple ht2 cranks and I think it's parts 5, 6 and 11 on that picture. The bb had just the normal spacers for the frame. I think I ended up using just part of the kit in the end because with all of them the lefthand crank would fit too loose. Would the end result be the same with just some spacers under the bb?  Probably.
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Jul 25, 2022 19:46
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kimbo305 posted:I have got a Sora 3503 triple, and a BB RS500 bracket, which doesn't come with spacers. Do I need spacers for a triple crank? There's a seal-side cover type spacer on my current working setup, which could be #6 on this diagram?: Dealers manual says no normal spacers needed for road. I assume you’re on a 68mm bb shell? It does mention using a spacer on the NDS for triples though, but it doesn’t say what size it is. There is a Shimano 3mm spacer specific to triple crank sets, so maybe that’s what they’re calling for. Page 15 https://si.shimano.com/#/en/DM/FC0002 Spacer https://www.performancebike.com/shimano-hollowtech-ii-triple-crankset-arm-spacer-3mm-y1gf11000/p308518
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Jul 25, 2022 19:47
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Yeah, 68mm shell. And my current (I think crunching) BBR60 bb without BB spacers fits with that cover spacer installed.Havana Affair posted:I think it's parts 5, 6 and 11 on that picture. I have 5 on the DS, I think, but not the 11 spacer behind it. Well, I'll look again. And on the NDS side, I don't have the 5. quote:I ended up using just part of the kit in the end because with all of them the lefthand crank would fit too loose Assuming the RS500 cups stick out the same amount, I should be able to achieve the same preload I had before, which felt ok. Though now I'm curious if maybe it was applying some extra wear to the bearings, given that I've gotten a creak in... 1000mi?
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Jul 25, 2022 19:59
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kimbo305 posted:Assuming the RS500 cups stick out the same amount Uh oh
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Jul 25, 2022 20:22
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SimonSays posted:Uh oh Are they not the lowest tier road Hollowtech bb and thus the same width as other road cups? I could probably caliper them on the frame to compare to BBR60, since they’re the older bigger spline format.
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Jul 26, 2022 00:35
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Spend my money for me: State Bicycle Undefeated  Or Skream Magnum22  Leaning towards the Skream just cause the paint on the SBC is so boring, but I've never heard of Skream before and the name is kinda cringe, as the kids say. Any knowledge on Skream as a company? Their stuff decent?
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Jul 26, 2022 01:56
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Wifi Toilet posted:Spend my money for me: Are you looking for a fixed gear for track or fixie crits or other?
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Jul 26, 2022 19:52
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Oops, thought I posted this in the other thread where I posted about building a mid life crisis bike. Honestly I’m just gonna be riding it around the neighborhood when I get home from work maybe 20 to 30 minutes, no specific purpose.
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Jul 26, 2022 21:32
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