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a big part of the perception on that butt-glue problem is that when a butt joint fails we see the glue fail and when an edge joint fails we see the wood break, giving the perception that the edge joint is stronger. He measured this though and found that when other confounding factors (gaps, the wood soaking up the glue, etc) are accounted for, that the glue is equally strong in either case, so it's just that the wood is weaker along the grain for the edge joint.
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Jun 25, 2022 18:09
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Danhenge posted:Some YouTuber did some tests that showed butt joints are plenty strong, it's more important to have sufficient glue surface with respect to potential leverage on the joints. So box joints will be better, but more as a consequence of increased glue surface for the same joint and the inability to leverage the joint apart in one direction. On top of that, rabbet joints with plywood do usually have some long grain/long grain glue surface. That being said, a box joint is way stronger, and making a strong joint has a lot more to do with long-grain wood crossing the joint than it does glue strength.
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Jun 25, 2022 18:13
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Hypnolobster posted:Needed a table for the dollhouse that my great grandfather made, so that the nieces and nephew could play with it. My dad was about to slap together some 2x4's with probably excessive amounts of drywall screws and I couldn't handle the thought.
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Jun 25, 2022 18:16
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NomNomNom posted:I might be misunderstanding, but 1/2" plywood is rarely actually 0.5 inches. Always test on a piece of scrap. I did, didn't have any larger bits so just went with it. The dimension I'm talking about is "C" in this picture  This is a 1/2 inch rabbet bit, but the actual cut comes out to just shy of 7/16ths. Isnt a 1/2 bit supposed to cut a perfect 1/2 wide channel?
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Jun 25, 2022 19:11
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 Hot glue can fix this right
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Jun 25, 2022 19:17
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Just grind a new edge and say it's, I dunno, traditional Swedish or something.
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Jun 25, 2022 19:36
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:What makes you feel like this would be weak joinery without the corner blocks? I've never felt I needed them on most mortise and tenoned tables. I guess a narrower tenon and wider shoulders might have a little more racking strength? Tenons closer to the outside edge could have been longer? Seems like it should be plenty strong and nice looking! In my head, what I should have done was leave that inner section connected at the top of the legs. I could have moved the rails further towards the outside to do that, or done a haunched tenon. Honestly I don't think it's really an issue on a table that's only 22" tall, and I'm sure it'll outlast me without an issue. Still bothers me, though.
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Jun 25, 2022 19:37
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ColdPie posted:Just grind a new edge and say it's, I dunno, traditional Swedish or something. I'm going to do that and just keep using it as a riving wedge
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Jun 25, 2022 19:41
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CommonShore posted:
JB Weld will make it good as new!
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Jun 25, 2022 19:48
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CommonShore posted:
When you think about it what is mig welding but a kind of very hot glue
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Jun 25, 2022 20:21
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CommonShore posted:
If it was an axe worth rescuing, you'd grind it off square and forge weld in another bit.
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Jun 25, 2022 21:20
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CommonShore posted:
You must find a peat bog and sacrifice it to the gods.
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Jun 25, 2022 21:24
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His Divine Shadow posted:If it was an axe worth rescuing, you'd grind it off square and forge weld in another bit. Is it his grandfather’s?
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Jun 25, 2022 21:27
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It was an axe head that I got at a garage sale for a buck but I made the handle
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Jun 25, 2022 21:50
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CommonShore posted:a big part of the perception on that butt-glue problem is that when a butt joint fails we see the glue fail and when an edge joint fails we see the wood break, giving the perception that the edge joint is stronger. He measured this though and found that when other confounding factors (gaps, the wood soaking up the glue, etc) are accounted for, that the glue is equally strong in either case, so it's just that the wood is weaker along the grain for the edge joint. Well, I was going to fix a failed butt joint today and it's good that I can just glue it closed and assume that it will hold. But I may run a couple of screws just in case.
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Jun 25, 2022 22:27
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Uthor posted:Well, I was going to fix a failed butt joint today and it's good that I can just glue it closed and assume that it will hold. But I may run a couple of screws just in case. Probably best if we just watch for ourselves. This is a cool series and a good channel btw. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7HxBa9WVis
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Jun 25, 2022 22:56
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One of the main things that video highlights, if I recall correctly, is that butt joints out in the wild often have less surface area than edge joints. The tests done were all else being equal, i.e. same gluing surface area. That's not actually often the case in real life. You still have to be careful that the joint you're making/repairing has an appropriate amount of surface area for the amount of force it will experience.
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Jun 25, 2022 23:07
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:One of the main things that video highlights, if I recall correctly, is that butt joints out in the wild often have less surface area than edge joints. The tests done were all else being equal, i.e. same gluing surface area. That's not actually often the case in real life. You still have to be careful that the joint you're making/repairing has an appropriate amount of surface area for the amount of force it will experience. Yeah exactly. My takeaway from that video more than anything else was how much of a difference good joint geometry makes. Now when I design something I contemplate what kind of forces will act on the joint and from what direction, and I think of glue mostly as something that keeps the joint from opening up.
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Jun 25, 2022 23:18
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 Got the spindles and crest fit up. Just gotta finish shaping them and cleanup the seat before glue up.
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Jun 26, 2022 01:20
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:On top of that, rabbet joints with plywood do usually have some long grain/long grain glue surface. I thought he said he was practicing with plywood before he did it with natural wood. Which are two different deals. But I may have misread. CommonShore posted:a big part of the perception on that butt-glue problem is that when a butt joint fails we see the glue fail and when an edge joint fails we see the wood break, giving the perception that the edge joint is stronger. He measured this though and found that when other confounding factors (gaps, the wood soaking up the glue, etc) are accounted for, that the glue is equally strong in either case, so it's just that the wood is weaker along the grain for the edge joint. The glue fail? The glue doesn't fail, it's the joint. Are you even reading what you typed? That Youtube guy sounds like a goon who's full of.....horse hoof glue.
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Jun 26, 2022 01:29
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ddiddles posted:I did, didn't have any larger bits so just went with it. The dimension I'm talking about is "C" in this picture My guess is that the 1/2" is nominal and varies depending on the width of the guide (which is typically removable/replaceable). What's the exact size of dimension D?
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Jun 26, 2022 07:48
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Leperflesh posted:My guess is that the 1/2" is nominal and varies depending on the width of the guide (which is typically removable/replaceable). What's the exact size of dimension D? This is a really good point, a lot of rabbeting bits come with multiple bearings in different diameters.
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Jun 26, 2022 07:52
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Do you know how to get a pristine Stanley no 45 with 20+ cutters for a steep discount? Get one without Stanley's name on it:  
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Jun 26, 2022 15:58
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Stultus Maximus posted:Do you know how to get a pristine Stanley no 45 with 20+ cutters for a steep discount? I got a 45 and a pair of dynaco a25 speakers for $10 at a yard sale some years ago. The speakers work great, the 45 only has a 1/2 inch flat cutter.
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Jun 26, 2022 16:06
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more falafel please posted:This is a really good point, a lot of rabbeting bits come with multiple bearings in different diameters. Yep, this might be it. I have a rabbetting bit and it came with bearings that allow me to cut something like 5 different widths as well as a flush cut bearing. They're pretty small gradations so it's possible that you just have the 7/16th bearing on there instead of the 1/2 bearing. Also, were you riding the bearing when you made the cut or were you using the fence as well? It's possible that the fence was standing out a bit from the bearing so you got a cut but it was just a tad shy.
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Jun 26, 2022 19:27
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Done!
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Jun 27, 2022 00:38
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The chair is great but your shop is frankly 
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Jun 27, 2022 01:34
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Found this old thing at the salvage yard, and am working on turning it into a capable user.  Blade, chipbreaker and iron parts of the body show surface rust and built up gunk that'll come off and I'll likely strip and repaint the cast iron after I get everything cleaned up but I'm a little worried about the wood sole.   Some pretty big cracks in the wood here, and some googling suggests I can get them filled in and stabilized by mixing wood glue and sawdust, working it into the cracks and clamping it up but I'm wondering if there's a suggested order of operations to really ensure success. Should I light sand to clean up the surface, glue and sawdust the cracks, clamp, plane the sole flat after the glue has dried and finish with boiled linseed oil and wax, or should I do those steps in a different order? NomNomNom posted:Done! Looks great! I haven't read the Anarchist's Design Book yet, what was the reason behind 3 legs versus 4? Less work with baked in stability?
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Jun 27, 2022 03:06
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I've seen corner chairs get away with three legs before but man you could not pay me enough to lean backwards on that thing
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Jun 27, 2022 03:11
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Yeah, my first thought is that that chair looks amazing but I'd absolutely tip that thing over.
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Jun 27, 2022 03:25
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The_Hatt posted:Some pretty big cracks in the wood here, and some googling suggests I can get them filled in and stabilized by mixing wood glue and sawdust, working it into the cracks and clamping it up but I'm wondering if there's a suggested order of operations to really ensure success. That's a nice looking transitional plane there! Clean it up and sharpen it and if needed flatten it, but give it a try before you do anything to the sole. You may find the checks don't interfere at all. You can totally wax the sole but don't put linseed oil or any other finish on the sole, just wax. You don't want a film finish that will get sticky, scrape off on the work pieces, etc. Sides & top is fine. I think if you find the checks are catching on workpieces and you want to fill them, I'd worry about the typical sawdust & glue trick. My concern is that you'll have really hard spots that could leave marks on your work pieces. Maybe a pro-grade wood filler product?
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Jun 27, 2022 03:26
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Leperflesh posted:My guess is that the 1/2" is nominal and varies depending on the width of the guide (which is typically removable/replaceable). What's the exact size of dimension D? it's just under 1 inch i think, I'll double check tomorrow, it was from a set that only has one bearing per bit. I got a 3/4 straight bit and used that with much better results, although this ryobi router fence is terrible. Trying out my hand at miter joint boxes, getting closer to not needing a bunch of wood filler.  
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Jun 27, 2022 07:39
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Finished my latest house project, an oak entryway door for the new entryway I built. Initial design, was based on the old window that was in this direction of the original smaller entryway.  White Oak planks from north America, laid out in the rough pattern. Paid to have these planed for me.  Had a steel Smith craft a custom threshold, low profile, with a lip to keep out rain blown by icelandic weather. 3mm stainless.  Needs a wood core. Screwed this down then used construction adhesive to adhere the metal.  Got enough wood to make the frame also out of oak.  Adding a channel to the Stiles and rails  Making the posts for the glass grid.  Making the tenons  Mortised, used a drill press then cleaned with chisels.  Testing the fit.  We love it.  Creating the grid.  All slotted together.  Also mortised tenons.  Window part assembled for testing.  It fits too!!   Main door all assembled  I accidentally chamfered the frame before adding the grid so had to fix that.   Made my own dowels so they would be oak of same dryness.  Testing the trim fit, 48 sticks, also you can see the ramps on the bottom row for drainage. Each upper window has holes drilled to allow drainage to the frame below til any excess water can flow out of those.ramps under the trim. Icelandic Windows all have internal drainage for the horizontal precipitation. The panes sit on 3mm nylon spacers so there is air underneath the panes too.  Installing the frame.  Testing if it closes, crazy it does first time with only a tiny bit of adjustments needed.   Installing the rubber liner. This is the actual wind and vapor barrier between inside air and outside.   Finished door. It has three point mortised latch and three security hinges. 44mm thick white oak. Nobody's coming in the front. Finished with walrus oil (tung I think)     Here you can see the rain lib that guides any water that strikes the door and runs down to flow over the lip in the threshold rather than behind and inside. I routed a 3mm deep slot for it to sit in, because the previous door I made it was attached to the surface directly and it has separated in a few places letting water run behind, defeating it's purpose.  My wormlings approve.  Probably my most intense carpentry project so far on this house. Very pleased how smoothly it functions and solid it feels. poopinmymouth fucked around with this message at 10:56 on Jun 27, 2022 |
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Jun 27, 2022 10:52
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poopinmymouth posted:
That's loving awesome dude, great work.
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Jun 27, 2022 11:58
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Dude that's a door fit for a castle. Incredible work. The chair has three legs exactly so you can't lean back. Schwarz theorizes they helped ward off drunks. Its surprisingly stable to sit in.
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Jun 27, 2022 12:13
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Love that door. Thanks for sharing.
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Jun 27, 2022 12:26
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Nice door and trollkins.
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Jun 27, 2022 15:45
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Doublepost-- free ebook download, the one by Foley about decorative furniture looks the most readable and informative to me. ymmv https://www.studyebooks.com/2022/06/decorativefurniture-foley-pdf.html
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Jun 27, 2022 19:17
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I just had a big maple cut down that had split at the base and was about to fall onto my neighbor’s driveway. Now that it’s down I see it’s all ambrosia. Does anybody have tips for my first time air drying? I have a 14” band saw so I was thinking about building or buying a bandsaw mill jig. In the short term I was going to just chunk it into logs and get it into the shop out of the elements. The trunk is 20” across, and the tree crew cut it into 4’ sections for me. I’ll still need to cut it smaller in the yard before I can get it inside. I don’t even know how I’m going to handle it, but I couldn’t stand seeing them haul off that huge amount of ambrosia maple. I’ll figure something out!
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Jun 27, 2022 20:40
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Make sure there's no insects in there. You don't want to introduce wood-eating pests to your woodshop. Otherwise, I don't really have any advice for you. I've manhandled short logs through my 14" bandsaw, which has a riser block attached to it, but I don't really recommend that approach, because it's very inconsistent. You can find plans for jigs that let you do some milling on a standard bandsaw, but I strongly suspect that your best bet is to buy or build a proper mill that attaches to the log, instead of trying to feed the log through a fixed saw.
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Jun 27, 2022 20:58
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