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TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

wooger posted:


Don’t get Corsa Speeds, they’re TT tyres and will last 1000 miles max and puncture like anything.

I want to say my rear lasted about 1300mi in race conditions, but they really weren't puncture prone. I got one puncture in those 1300mi while riding through Fremont (glass, nails, lovely pavement, etc.) It sealed instantly.

e: For contrast, I also raced on Pro One TT TLE tires and got like 19 punctures in 9 weeks, four of which required DynaPlugs. These tires also tried to kill GoodDog.

TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Jun 26, 2022

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bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

I've never worn out or flatted a Corsa Speed.



But I only use them on the track, and I have had the tread delaminate.

Sticky Date
Apr 4, 2009

TobinHatesYou posted:


e: For contrast, I also raced on Pro One TT TLE tires and got like 19 punctures in 9 weeks, four of which required DynaPlugs. These tires also tried to kill GoodDog.

I love the way these tyres feel but my experience is the same, on my 3rd dynaplug and sick of cleaning up sealant off the bike. Not to mention all the little cuts that did seal. My previous GPs didn't have any issues.

Kwolok
Jan 4, 2022
Getting into road biking again. My tires say between 100 and 130 psi, should I just do 130? I pumped then to 115 last ride and after the ride they were down to 90 (24 mile ride). Is that normal?

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Kwolok posted:

Getting into road biking again. My tires say between 100 and 130 psi, should I just do 130? I pumped then to 115 last ride and after the ride they were down to 90 (24 mile ride). Is that normal?

We need a bit more info, but generally: lower is better.
There are calculators (https://silca.cc/pages/sppc-form) that can help you figure it out.

It's not normal to lose that much pressure in one ride, you may have a slow leak.

rngd in the womb
Oct 13, 2009

Yam Slacker
No, use this PSI calculator. 130 psi is going to feel pretty harsh unless you're racing on a velodrome or something like that

efb

Kwolok
Jan 4, 2022

rngd in the womb posted:

No, use this PSI calculator. 130 psi is going to feel pretty harsh unless you're racing on a velodrome or something like that

efb

Woah thats crazy, this link suggests 60 psi. That feels crazy low...

edit: The other caluclator says 110 psi... I am getting mixed signals.

https://www.vittoria.com/us/en/tires/road-tires/zaffiro-pro

I believe this is my tire on both front and rear. Would this be a high performance latex tube?

Double edit: What is inner rim width vs the width printed on my tire (which is 25)

Like I got this bike and tires so many years ago. I have no idea whether the casing is considered thin/standard etc. or what the rim type is...

Kwolok fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Jun 26, 2022

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Kwolok posted:

Woah thats crazy, this link suggests 60 psi. That feels crazy low...

edit: The other caluclator says 110 psi... I am getting mixed signals.

https://www.vittoria.com/us/en/tires/road-tires/zaffiro-pro

I believe this is my tire on both front and rear. Would this be a high performance latex tube?

The tube is separate from the tyre. If your inner tubes are pink you might have latex ones. Otherwise not.

Those are low-end tyres, the high-end option from Vittoria is the Corsa.

Kwolok
Jan 4, 2022

wooger posted:

The tube is separate from the tyre. If your inner tubes are pink you might have latex ones. Otherwise not.

Those are low-end tyres, the high-end option from Vittoria is the Corsa.

So likely mid range casing / butly tube?

Edit: Here are my tires:

Kwolok fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Jun 26, 2022

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man
Very few people should be running even 110psi on 25mm tires, let alone 130psi. Unless you are 100kg+ and racing with thin casing tires on pristine roads, you should be running lower pressures. And really someone that heavy should be running >28mm tires on a bike that can fit them.

At 64kg, I’d be running somewhere around 85psi on measured 25mm tires with tubes, and most 25mm tires actually measure closer to 27mm once mounted, so in reality I’d be running lower pressures.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Unless you're over like 250 pounds, 100psi is probably as high as I would go on those tires (and I'd really look at wider tires if the frame will accommodate them).
Somewhere between 80 and 100 is the normal range for 25mm tires depending on rider weight and how poo poo the roads are.

Kwolok
Jan 4, 2022

bicievino posted:

Unless you're over like 250 pounds, 100psi is probably as high as I would go on those tires (and I'd really look at wider tires if the frame will accommodate them).
Somewhere between 80 and 100 is the normal range for 25mm tires depending on rider weight and how poo poo the roads are.

I was always under the impression that thinner was more efficient, is that mentality changing?

Also after my last ride my rear end was SORE, any recommendations for padded shorts?

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:

Kwolok posted:

I was always under the impression that thinner was more efficient, is that mentality changing?

That mentality is changing, for example https://www.renehersecycles.com/12-myths-in-cycling-1-wider-tires-are-slower/

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Kwolok posted:

I was always under the impression that thinner was more efficient, is that mentality changing?

Also after my last ride my rear end was SORE, any recommendations for padded shorts?

Narrower tires are more aero, more "responsive" and lighter. They also cannot provide as much suspension, which will probably make you slower and less efficient.

Well not poo poo your rear end was sore. At 130psi on 25mm low-end tires, they may as well have been made of concrete. Just tell us how much you weigh and we'll tell you what pressure to ride at.

Kwolok
Jan 4, 2022

TobinHatesYou posted:

Narrower tires are more aero, more "responsive" and lighter. They also cannot provide as much suspension, which will probably make you slower and less efficient.

Well not poo poo your rear end was sore. At 130psi on 25mm low-end tires, they may as well have been made of concrete. Just tell us how much you weigh and we'll tell you what pressure to ride at.

I am ~145 lbs with all my gear/equipment. So a wider tire will make my road biker ride smoother, and therefore more efficiently? Thin tires really only help on tracks/perfect surfaces?

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man


But also keep in mind that Jan Heine actually isn't to be trusted. Any claim he makes has to be backed up by other sources using, uh actual science rather than "what Jan wants to believe."

TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Jun 27, 2022

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Kwolok posted:

I am ~145 lbs with all my gear/equipment. So a wider tire will make my road biker ride smoother, and therefore more efficiently? Thin tires really only help on tracks/perfect surfaces?

With a 25mm Zaffiro:

80-85psi on good pavement
75-80psi on average pavement
70-75psi on below average

Narrow tires help you go fast if you are going REALLY fast because aerodynamic drag increases as a square vs rolling resistance increasing fairly linearly. Narrow tires at high psi on poor surfaces will literally vibrate/bounce off the road surface, resulting in wasted power.

Kwolok
Jan 4, 2022

TobinHatesYou posted:

With a 25mm Zaffiro:

80-85psi on good pavement
75-80psi on average pavement
70-75psi on below average

Narrow tires help you go fast if you are going REALLY fast because aerodynamic drag increases as a square vs rolling resistance increasing fairly linearly. Narrow tires at high psi on poor surfaces will literally vibrate/bounce off the road surface, resulting in wasted power.

ok cool, I'll target 75 psi moving forward. Does it really matter to inflate the rear tire slightly more?

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Kwolok posted:

ok cool, I'll target 75 psi moving forward. Does it really matter to inflate the rear tire slightly more?

At that range, you'd inflate the rear tire by 2-3 more psi.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Yeah there's a good bicycle rolling resistance comparo of different sized GP5000s. Long story short, at the pressures you actually use in a tire the RR is pretty much the same regardless of width. A wider tire at the same pressure on a smooth surface is faster because of course it is. Wider tires are heavier and less aero, but don't roll slower and give more cushion.

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/grand-prix-5000-comparison

And yes good to run a bit more in the rear tire. I go like a 7-8ish psi split on road tires.

jamal fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Jun 27, 2022

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

Loving Africa Chaps posted:

There was a narrow 17% ramp I stopped on and tried to restart, immediately ran out of road, realised I was going over, just about managed to unclip to reduce the bulk of the impact but heard a pretty hideous crack of carbon fibre as I hit the deck. RIP my speed needle.



I see you already replaced it, but did the rail crack, or did it just de-bond from the shell? Seems repairable with the right adhesive.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

Loving Africa Chaps posted:

Been on a cycling trip to Mallorca.
Great trip report. Getting some rides in when traveling really increases the enjoyment of the whole thing.

Loving Africa Chaps
Dec 3, 2007


We had not left it yet, but when I would wake in the night, I would lie, listening, homesick for it already.

sweat poteto posted:

I see you already replaced it, but did the rail crack, or did it just de-bond from the shell? Seems repairable with the right adhesive.

There was a layer of carbon fibre over that section that came off too. Probably repairable but given it came from eBay I might just look out for another one as I found it pretty comfy.

Yeep
Nov 8, 2004
I think I need some deep section wheels for my TT bike. I've done a couple of triathlons in the last month (a sprint and a half iron) and especially on the long course it was very obvious the RS500 wheels were holding me back. I've got a long standing offer from a local wheelbuilder to make me something on Lightbicycle rims for about £1k but their (Lightbicycle's) prices have gone up a lot recently and a grand gets you a lot less than it used to to the point where it's tempting to spend another couple of £100 and find something prebuilt on sale, probably in a 60/80.

I've not really got any idea where to start though, both my TT and training bikes are rim brake and that's not likely to change for a while but nice rim braked wheels are getting harder to find.

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe
The bicycle shop called today while I was dropping off my son at his job. Was my Escape's tune-up done, or did my road bike come in early?

Option A, turns out. Still pretty cool, since it's a gorgeous day, albeit windy. I wonder if anyone would notice if I played hooky from work to ride my bike?

osker
Dec 18, 2002

Wedge Regret

tarlibone posted:

I wonder if anyone would notice if I played hooky from work to ride my bike?

I do it all the time, just don’t blast it on the gram.

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe

osker posted:

I do it all the time, just don’t blast it on the gram.

Ha. I'm middle-aged and embracing it. I don't have "the gram." I only have Pinterest because one time several years ago I wanted a specific cheesecake recipe. But point taken.

(I also do not have any coworkers as Facebook friends for reasons like this.)

Kwolok
Jan 4, 2022
Is strava still like the best tracking app?

Edit: Also does anyone have any good resources for finding seperated bike paths in my area? I know there are a few dedicated bike/ped paved pathways near me, but I would like to find all of them.

Kwolok fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Jun 27, 2022

dema
Aug 13, 2006

Yes. Just make sure your boss doesn't follow you on Strava if you're riding when you're supposed to be working.

edit; There is a biking layer in Google Maps that will show you bike lanes and dedicated paths. It looks really accurate for my general area.

I generally go by Strava's popularity map in their route builder thing though.

dema fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Jun 27, 2022

osker
Dec 18, 2002

Wedge Regret

Kwolok posted:

Is strava still like the best tracking app?

Edit: Also does anyone have any good resources for finding seperated bike paths in my area? I know there are a few dedicated bike/ped paved pathways near me, but I would like to find all of them.

I find that all the tracking apps are more or less the same if you want to just track the basics. Strave hands out KOM medals and personal bests and has an entire social media component which is great for finding cool gravel/club rides sometimes.

For paths and trails check out alltrails.com, it has an annoying interface, but it is a good way to get a sense of what is where and a name, then I usually take that info and go find the route on ride with gps because 99.9% of the time someone did that already.

Eejit
Mar 6, 2007

Swiss Army Cockatoo
Cacatua multitoolii

You can use the segment explorer feature on Strava to find popular paths/routes as well

FredLordofCheese
Aug 16, 2005

Hey there, here's your pizza, may I ask why you are wearing that sheer robe?
Anyone looking for sweet bike kit, the Bearpope store is open again

Join us and you to can be asked by every cyclist what team bearpope is.

Here is the post with ordering info:
:frogsiren:https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3885509&pagenumber=18#post524460952:frogsiren:

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe

Kwolok posted:

Is strava still like the best tracking app?

Edit: Also does anyone have any good resources for finding seperated bike paths in my area? I know there are a few dedicated bike/ped paved pathways near me, but I would like to find all of them.

It probably is. I use Ride With GPS, though, because I'm still relatively new and thus more than a little bit bad at bicycles. RWGPS has some really good maps, and I plan routes with them all the time. If you pay for the premium membership, you can even set up custom cues that say whatever you want. ... actually, I rarely do that, and now I wonder how cuss-y I can make it sound.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

Yeep posted:

I think I need some deep section wheels for my TT bike. I've done a couple of triathlons in the last month (a sprint and a half iron) and especially on the long course it was very obvious the RS500 wheels were holding me back. I've got a long standing offer from a local wheelbuilder to make me something on Lightbicycle rims for about £1k but their (Lightbicycle's) prices have gone up a lot recently and a grand gets you a lot less than it used to to the point where it's tempting to spend another couple of £100 and find something prebuilt on sale, probably in a 60/80.

I've not really got any idea where to start though, both my TT and training bikes are rim brake and that's not likely to change for a while but nice rim braked wheels are getting harder to find.

light bicycle trispoke and disc

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug

Crumps Brother posted:

I'm gonna move to New Hampshire in a couple months. Right around the Durham area. What do I need to know about local shops, trails, hot spots, so on and so forth? Particularly interested in the local cyclocross and gravel scene, but love a solid B-level road group too. Big fan off mountain biking, but like Iowa and Bentonville kinda mountain biking, ya know. The kinda stuff that fine to ride on a fatty.

The only thing I have my eyes on right now are the Monday rides at Papa Wheelies. Also, pretty stoked that I'll have a chance at the Mt Washington Hill Climb in the coming future.

DG Cycles in Epping does a good group gravel ride that a few people I know go on.

Terrain in the area has limited elevation and is almost all hand built trails, very little machine built superhighways. Durham is a little bit away from what I usually ride.

Fort Rock in Exeter has both incredibly technical terrain combined with some smoother more mellow stuff.

Bear Brook is mostly all a combination of easy and moderate trails and is one of the bigger mileage areas in the southern part of the state. If you want to ride gravel on snowmobile trails and mellower single track it’s good for that too.

You can hop on the Rockingham Rail Trail at it’s terminus in Newfields and ride it to a bunch of good quality dirt roads around Raymond, Nottingham, and hit some stuff in Pawtuckaway State Park. You can even ride it all the way to Bear Brook if you want a suffer fest on some pretty rough snow mobile trails.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

dema posted:

Yes. Just make sure your boss doesn't follow you on Strava if you're riding when you're supposed to be working.

edit; There is a biking layer in Google Maps that will show you bike lanes and dedicated paths. It looks really accurate for my general area.

I generally go by Strava's popularity map in their route builder thing though.

This past winter, when the days were dry and in the lunchtime hour, I’d do this to just get some miles in to stretch my legs. Just a quick five miles to get myself out of a slump.

Luckily the area around me has a bonkers number of trails to ride, as well as decent roads. But I suppose that’s to be expected next to a Pearl Izumi office haha!

strangeless
May 8, 2007

I say money, money, money, and I say hot dog! I say yes, no and I say money, money, money and I say turkey sandwich and I say jet fuel can't melt steel beams.
Hello bike thread. I am a girthy fellow putting together a bike to 1)enjoy weekend riding on not-great Waco, TX streets 2)get into a new money-hole hobby 3)lose some weight. I have an ebike that has gotten me back into wanting to ride manual.

6'2" 265 of pure hard muscle

I'm building what will I hope will end up like a frankenstein "light MTB"/City hybrid that's ultimately nicer than what I bought almost 20 years ago. I don't want to just buy a mid-range Trek or Specialized or whatever because that's sensible and easy. I'm looking fun, strength, reliability, and comfort first, then coolness/interestingness (the "why the hell did you do that" factor), then efficiency and speed.

Here's what I've got so far:

Trek Multitrack 7100 aluminum hybrid frame that I bought as part of a full bike in 2007 - yes this is going to be a polished turd build, but I rode the frame for a few hundred miles when I bought it and the geometry is comfortable and fits my size (and is free). I'll drill out the cable bulls to run full-length sheathing.
Shimano Alfine 36h 8-speed w/ 18t sprocket that I bought for the ebike but changed my mind.
700c x 19 internal width DT Swiss 535 (e-bike rated machined rim)
DT Swiss Competition spokes.
Panaracer Gravelking 700x43 tires - the two inch tires on the ebike just barely clear the rear V-brake tabs on the frame so I'm OK with clearance front and back.
Shimano Deore V-brakes front and back that I got very cheap.
Hardtail configuration because streets are mostly poor and I'm getting old.
Selle Royal seat and downtube that I'll swap out w/ my ebike that is comfortable enough for about 20 mile rides with my weight, which is about the most I will do.

Order of upgrades:
De-sticker and shittily paint the frame. I will eventually de-sticker or sand the logos off of everything that I can, but that is long-term goals.
Brakes, wheels, tires, rear hub, shifter. Brakes were very shot and I already slipped and almost lost my rear end on loose pebbles on the current tire width so that's all first.
Crankset: will just use the biggest or middle chainring (whichever fits better) for now on the current 3x setup, but I will replace it for a cleaner/cooler look.
Front fork: current one sucks but nothing "wrong" with it and will take the V-brake - which is currently kind of hard to find in affordable and "not lovely".
Headset, handlebars, and grips: I like the geometry of this one, so will just tape-wrap for now. It had twist-grip shifters that I hated when I rode the bike for more than an hour back in the day. The grips it came with were the least comfortable, cheapest poo poo I ever wrapped my hands around.
Racks, maybe fenders: As I continue to ride it will hopefully replace the ebike for shopping or whatever and I currently use all that stuff.
Another Frame, front fork, hydraulic brakes: something gently used, titanium, with through-frame cable routing (if that's even possible for Ti), horizontal dropouts and a rear disk mounting point - with a similar geometry - would be the grail. This may be difficult and likely expensive. I haven't started looking yet. I'll settle for just horizontal dropouts for clean lines (no tensioner) for the Alfine.
Another crankset: Gates Carbon Drive or equivalent in a couple years. Current frame can't take the belt.


I have a bunch of questions and normal bike forums users seem unable to tolerate dumb poo poo like this so:

I'm looking for front fork a that is higher quality than a budget bike that can take the V-brakes - don't really need RockShox or Fox anything high end, just better than the RST CT COM 1 that I have now. I'll get a disk version when I switch frames for a cleaner look, or just unscrew the spindles. https://www.srsuntour.com/products/fork/M3010-6867.html This one seems to fit but is discontinued. I could be convinced to go rigid.

Does anyone have an idea on how to get good tension on a vertical drop-out aside from a tensioner? Is it just luck finding the right chainring? There are a lot of cheap aluminum billet tensioners on Amazon, I assume for fixies/lowriders. I'll have to walk around Austin to see what people are doing.

Wheel/tire combo - one mechanic told me 43s on 19mm is totally fine, online people say 21mm is the minimum, a friend told me he did way dumber poo poo than that in the past but he's not 265lbs.

Front hub - I will eventually buy a disk compatible frame and swap everything onto it (and get hydraulic disk brakes) so I want something disc-compatible, but I don't even know where to start here. I know rim brakes aren't necessarily complete poo poo, and are cleaner/more simple, but I like the disk brakes on the ebike very much. I won't be riding actual trails or in the rain. Since I'm lacing the wheel up anyway I might as well, right? I will be getting the wheels tensioned/trued at the mechanic.

Any crankset recommendations for something cool? Current crankset is Suntour NEX200 26/36/46 with "unspecified" bottom bracket. My mechanic has a pull-off set of Campagnolo but I'm not sure what all it would need to work on the frame. I suspect I'm limited in choice here, so upgrading once I get my new frame may be a better choice. That could be years, though. Maybe its one of those don't fix it if it isn't broken things.

I read double-butted spokes are stronger/more forgiving/flex under load a little and so are more reliable than straight spokes from the same manufacturer, anyone know if there's any truth to that? Looking at Alpine 3 instead of Competition if true... or Sapim spokes but I don't know anything about their model lines. Don't really care about Aero

Finally, how bad is it on a scale of 1-10 to get a disconnected cool older rear derailleur from a swap meet and use a 2x on the front on an Alfine driveline? I've never broken a chain but I don't really want to, either. I already have the Alfine and I think it's neat (and can't return it) so I want to use it. Shimano makes a tensioner but I don't know if it's designed for a multi-gear front. People say yes and people say no. If this whole Alfine thing is ultimately really dumb, and I will definitely break everything, are there any cool derailleur/cassette setups that would work well and add a bit of polish to the turd? I'm assuming keeping everything Deore would be better than putting the lovely SRAM 3.0 rear derailleur and lovely freewheel back on. Clean lines make me want to just run single sprocket front and rear. That and stopped shifting is why I got the Alfine in the first place for the ebike.

How hosed am I? How dumb is this build? I just want something fun and reliable and comfortable that can take my weight and that I can work on myself.

Yeep
Nov 8, 2004

e.pilot posted:

light bicycle trispoke and disc



Light bicycle don't seem to do a rim brake trispoke any more.

Regardless, I'm not sure a full disc is worth it. All the races I properly care about are hilly and often windy. Aren't disc wheels really only for fast, flat courses.

Vando
Oct 26, 2007

stoats about
How hilly are we talking? Generally you need to be trucking up some pretty serious ascents before the full TT setup becomes not worth it and that doesn't tend to be something you find in most tri events.

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Yeep
Nov 8, 2004

Vando posted:

How hilly are we talking? Generally you need to be trucking up some pretty serious ascents before the full TT setup becomes not worth it and that doesn't tend to be something you find in most tri events.

This was me last weekend: https://www.strava.com/activities/7365113606
And me on the full distance course last year: https://www.strava.com/activities/5458423431

I know it's only one race per year, but it (or another Xtri) is always going to be the one I care most about and I can't justify two nice sets of wheels right now. I could probably stretch to a disc cover for my RS500s as well for when I'm doing something flatter.

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