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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PainterofCrap posted:

poo poo, it's not even the cost/benefit; they're duplicitious assholes straight out of the gate.

Look, were I 30 or under right now, I would give serious thought to doing it even if my power bill didn't drop all that much. Every little bit helps. First thing I'd do is price it for to get all of the components myself & homebrew it. At least I'd have a solid number...

Agreed, and I'm still thinking about doing it. Just not through one of those scammers.

But I know how futile that is. It's right on the scale of being one of the people in California being asked to conserve water at home.

(Residential users are 10% of CA's water usage, 10% business other than ag, 80% ag. So are you really doing anything meaningful in this case? It's very much the same for power.)

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BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


If I wasn’t in Phoenix where it covers my power usage more or less all year round it wouldn’t be worth it. Being told you have a decade plus return on investment on something with a 20 year lifespan tops and by the time the hits year ten will already have degraded performance would not make me sign on the dotted line. I got quotes from a bunch of places and almost all were scummy and I thought I went with an ok installer and to their benefit they did order a new inverter when the other went down but the team who installed it had no idea what they were doing so now it has cost them a ton in call outs and replacement parts.

TraderStav
May 19, 2006

It feels like I was standing my entire life and I just sat down
How long until the shingles are viable? I'd much rather go that route. Able to cover more surface area and not lag into my roof creating failure points for leaks.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I feel like in the next 10 years, when we will have to replace our roof (it's not leaking but it is probably about done) I'll look into self-install solar. I'm willing to hire an actual electrician but not one of these solar companies.

e. I also don't want to wind up trying to sell this house with a lien on it from a solar company that the buyers would have to pay off or assume.

Mr. Crow
May 22, 2008

Snap City mayor for life
I was opening up my sprinklers and noticed this new hole under the foundation(?)/outer concrete wall in crawlspace, this seems like something I should be concerned about? Didn't appear to be leak related but possibly / probably from snowmelt over winter? The drain valve was completely closed so don't think it was from that leaking over winter and nothing was leaking after opening stuff up.



Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Sinkholes under your foundation seems like something worth investigating further

sporkstand
Jun 15, 2021
Small solar update: I got several more quotes through energysage.com and not surprisingly, they're all far less expensive than the first one I got. I'm talking like 1/2 to 1/3 of the price. Shockingly, I even got one quote from a company that told me I shouldn't go solar at all because my roof faces the wrong direction and it wouldn't be worth it for me.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

sporkstand posted:

Shockingly, I even got one quote from a company that told me I shouldn't go solar at all because my roof faces the wrong direction and it wouldn't be worth it for me.

It really is shocking you found someone honest.

Listen to them.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

sporkstand posted:

Small solar update: I got several more quotes through energysage.com and not surprisingly, they're all far less expensive than the first one I got. I'm talking like 1/2 to 1/3 of the price. Shockingly, I even got one quote from a company that told me I shouldn't go solar at all because my roof faces the wrong direction and it wouldn't be worth it for me.

That is someone to follow-up with. Does your metro do net metering and tax rebates? Because if so it might be worth it in the end.

Harriet Carker
Jun 2, 2009

Here’s a thinker: I play Dance Dance Revolution. Until today, my pads were totally level with the floor on all four corners. As far as I can tell nothing changed but now the left pad is uneven - one of the corners doesn’t touch the ground. The same thing happens in that spot when I switch the pads. There are other places in the garage where it’s totally flat.

How could something like that change from day to day? Something shifting in the foundation? An earthquake?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Harriet Carker posted:

Here’s a thinker: I play Dance Dance Revolution. Until today, my pads were totally level with the floor on all four corners. As far as I can tell nothing changed but now the left pad is uneven - one of the corners doesn’t touch the ground. The same thing happens in that spot when I switch the pads. There are other places in the garage where it’s totally flat.

How could something like that change from day to day? Something shifting in the foundation? An earthquake?

What's the floor made of? What are the pads made of?

Harriet Carker
Jun 2, 2009

Leperflesh posted:

What's the floor made of? What are the pads made of?

The floor is concrete. I have a 3/8” rubber gym flooring on top of it. The pads are metal/wood and plexiglass.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

It looks like the pad is running over that crack in the concrete? There could be a little movement in the soil under the concrete, especially if it's clay which gives up or absorbs moisture seasonally. That may also be the reason for the crack. A small amount of movement seasonally is not cause for great concern, but if any cracks open to 1/4" or larger, if you get windows popping out, doors that won't open/close any more, signs of moisture intrusion, anything like that, then you should get a consult with a foundation specialist.

Wood absorbs and gives up moisture and changes its shape too. If there's wood in the pad, it could be stretching or contracting a little seasonally too.

Harriet Carker
Jun 2, 2009

Leperflesh posted:

It looks like the pad is running over that crack in the concrete? There could be a little movement in the soil under the concrete, especially if it's clay which gives up or absorbs moisture seasonally. That may also be the reason for the crack. A small amount of movement seasonally is not cause for great concern, but if any cracks open to 1/4" or larger, if you get windows popping out, doors that won't open/close any more, signs of moisture intrusion, anything like that, then you should get a consult with a foundation specialist.

Wood absorbs and gives up moisture and changes its shape too. If there's wood in the pad, it could be stretching or contracting a little seasonally too.

Thank you - this seems plausible. Interestingly, the screws in one of the garage door hinges all popped out yesterday. Wonder if it’s related.

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

Motronic posted:

I mentioned when the solar OP asked in another thread that solar is largely a lifestyle choice outside of very specific areas for very specific houses/properties. The above is just more supporting evidence as to how it's sold.

Because if solar companies provided real cost/benefit due diligence for their prospective customers there wouldn't be enough work to stay in business.

The real selling point in California is that you can stop giving money to PG&E, which people will pay many multiples of what they would have ever paid PG&E for the opportunity to do.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

El Mero Mero posted:

The real selling point in California is that you can stop giving money to PG&E, which people will pay many multiples of what they would have ever paid PG&E for the opportunity to do.

Yeah, no. Unless you're off grid you're beholden to net metering buyback rates which are not gonna hold through the length of most people's cost/benefit calculations, which always seem wildly optimistic and even ignore degraded performance.. I'm hearing some interesting things about the next rate change.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Harriet Carker posted:

The floor is concrete. I have a 3/8” rubber gym flooring on top of it. The pads are metal/wood and plexiglass.



I'm jealous of your DDR setup. I only ever had the lovely soft pads

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Harriet Carker posted:

Thank you - this seems plausible. Interestingly, the screws in one of the garage door hinges all popped out yesterday. Wonder if it’s related.

You have a poltergeist.

Nuke it from orbit & go live in a refrigerator carton under the nearest bridge.

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

Motronic posted:

Yeah, no. Unless you're off grid you're beholden to net metering buyback rates which are not gonna hold through the length of most people's cost/benefit calculations, which always seem wildly optimistic and even ignore degraded performance.. I'm hearing some interesting things about the next rate change.

No disagreement about net metering. However, the new insane net-metering policies that were being proposed ended up getting killed off this year right away. There are pretty serious constituencies (environmental interests + for-profit solar companies that financialize the net metering + wealthy people in mansions with lots of solar + some building and trade unions) that lined up against it and will again.

I'm sure they'll come back after it again in a few years and maybe eventually gut it, but that one's going to be a fight.

If anything though it makes the original point even more true though because already solar only barely pencils out right now if you make lofty assumptions about subsidy, net metering, and maintenance costs.

Right now many folks get it installed with financialized agreements that transfer all of the subsidy over to the solar company anyway (who in turn sell tranches of that subsidy to investors) in "return" for just the reduced PG&E bill (and large front up-front install costs lol).

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Motronic posted:

Yeah, no. Unless you're off grid you're beholden to net metering buyback rates which are not gonna hold through the length of most people's cost/benefit calculations, which always seem wildly optimistic and even ignore degraded performance.. I'm hearing some interesting things about the next rate change.

In California for existing systems (or ones installed before they change the rate plan) it's incredibly lucrative. People operating prior to mid-2016 or mid-2017 depending on utility monopoly got literal annual-basis net metering. Now it's hourly it seems + TOU rates. So as long as your system is larger than your peak load you're basically golden. Add in a battery to keep you off the grid overnight and you're still looking at basically $0 bills or a check from the poco. Considering SEC at least charges around $0.30/kwh blended rate... it adds up quickly. I just pulled in a $225 bill on 775 kwh of consumption. That's $0.29/kwh for my "all green" bill (which I realize is goosing it a bit, but not as much as you might think - generation is only around 1/3 of my bill.) That was last month when the temperatures were still fairly moderate. It's been 95f+ here all week. I will easily crest a 1MWH for the month.

Running the math on a $15k system which I think gets you a cheap 5kw system these days that comes to 13 year payback assuming I can basically zero out $225 * 5 months of bills.

It's REALLY sunny here, and for now we have REALLY consumer friendly generation laws. That won't last forever but for now - yeah get connected.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020
Probation
Can't post for 3 hours!

Motronic posted:

Yeah, no. Unless you're off grid you're beholden to net metering buyback rates which are not gonna hold through the length of most people's cost/benefit calculations, which always seem wildly optimistic and even ignore degraded performance.. I'm hearing some interesting things about the next rate change.

You’re almost in utilities, should we be investing in Exelon or PG&E stock or not? :P

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

H110Hawk posted:

That's $0.29/kwh for my "all green" bill (which I realize is goosing it a bit...

Running the math on a $15k system which I think gets you a cheap 5kw system these days that comes to 13 year payback assuming I can basically zero out $225 * 5 months of bills.


It's a bit fancy math because you're leaving out the repair/replacement costs in your calculation (including increased costs for roof repair) and the lowest bid installs are a gamble about whether you'll make it 13 years at all.

But that math is a good example of spite investment calculus. I get charged .35 kw/h and have done it myself (15 years if I could 0 it out at a cost of 40,000!). PG&E rates are ludicrous.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

El Mero Mero posted:

It's a bit fancy math because you're leaving out the repair/replacement costs in your calculation (including increased costs for roof repair) and the lowest bid installs are a gamble about whether you'll make it 13 years at all.

But that math is a good example of spite investment calculus. I get charged .35 kw/h and have done it myself (15 years if I could 0 it out at a cost of 40,000!). PG&E rates are ludicrous.

I also only did 5 peak months out of the year. If you write down the other months it hopefully offsets whatever repairs you might need down the line to the tune of a $600/year. Assuming your first 5 years are problem free that's $3000 "banked", if you have one problem in 10 years that's a $6000 budget.

The passive components are going to be fine, degradation is turning out to be less of a problem with modern panels from what anecdotes I've heard. This leaves your inverter as the money pit, or needing to replace all the fasteners. And anyone who puts panels on an old roof kind of has it coming if you need roof repairs due to age.

I'm ignoring the cost of capital there entirely and assuming you write a check for the full price up front.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Maybe a stupid question, but has anyone looked at whether just a battery, and whatever else is needed, hooked up to the grid, charging when the spot prices are low and powering the house when prices are high makes sense?

Academician Nomad
Jan 29, 2016
It seems like every gas stove out there has 10,000 4.9/5 star reviews, across the entire range of pricing. It makes me really not see much value added in the more expensive ones. Why would I pay $5k for something that just works at $1.5k? Of course I'd rather switch to induction, but my wiring isn't up to it, and I'm not paying $$$$ in electrical work just so I can switch

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Academician Nomad posted:

It seems like every gas stove out there has 10,000 4.9/5 star reviews, across the entire range of pricing. It makes me really not see much value added in the more expensive ones. Why would I pay $5k for something that just works at $1.5k? Of course I'd rather switch to induction, but my wiring isn't up to it, and I'm not paying $$$$ in electrical work just so I can switch

Honestly gas stoves are incredibly simple. Get whatever has the features you want. Pay special attention to burner size or whatever if you want something special. Higher end ones should have better flame distribution (more smaller nozzles and nozzles in the center not just a ring.) Our $1400 came with the house Frigidaire Gallery gas stove is fine. The not largest burner has trouble keeping a rolling boil going on a uh, half a stock pot sized pot if you overfill it with food but it will get there. That's my biggest complaint. (it's full diameter just 8" tall not like 24" or whatever I'm not measuring it.)

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

Academician Nomad posted:

It seems like every gas stove out there has 10,000 4.9/5 star reviews, across the entire range of pricing. It makes me really not see much value added in the more expensive ones. Why would I pay $5k for something that just works at $1.5k?

Uh, because there are different features and different expectations at different price points to serve different customer needs?

Customer reviews are a function of expectations and value at that price point. Nobody buys a $500 stove and then gives it 1 star because it doesn't have WiFi. They buy the $500 stove because they need a basic-rear end stove that works. If it fulfills their requirements and they feel it was worth $500, then it gets a 5 star review.

Higher end stoves have more power, more burners, modular burners, accessories, double ovens, dual fuel, smart connectivity, designer touches/fancy finishes, etc. etc.

If you don't want any of that then don't buy the $5k stove.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Lol the two previous posts couldn't be any further apart

Functionally yeah the burner on a 5k stove might have better distribution and improved spark but those are mostly "what's the difference between a $400 and $1.4k cooktop" features. I can't imagine how you add 3.5k more value to a gas cooktop besides a "better" name and probably longer warranty. Gas cooktops only have a few moving parts so I'm not sure how much value is there to be added beyond bragging rights

$45 Coleman 2 burner propane stove is going to boil water just as good as any $5000 stove, probably faster, because propane burns hotter

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Do what I did and fall into the rabbit hole of vintage stove restoration. You can get a $7,000 stove from 1950 for like $400 (and countless hours of labor)

Academician Nomad
Jan 29, 2016

DaveSauce posted:

Uh, because there are different features and different expectations at different price points to serve different customer needs?

Customer reviews are a function of expectations and value at that price point. Nobody buys a $500 stove and then gives it 1 star because it doesn't have WiFi. They buy the $500 stove because they need a basic-rear end stove that works. If it fulfills their requirements and they feel it was worth $500, then it gets a 5 star review.

Higher end stoves have more power, more burners, modular burners, accessories, double ovens, dual fuel, smart connectivity, designer touches/fancy finishes, etc. etc.

If you don't want any of that then don't buy the $5k stove.

What the expectations and value are at different pints are really unclear to me. Yeah there's WIFI and maybe *somebody* cares about that but I have negative interest in a "smart" stove. How am I helped by my phone alerting me the oven is hot instead of the beep from the oven? I'm usually home when I'm cooking! Not really clear to me what "more power" means in the context of a gas stove. Bigger burners, fine, but it's the same gas either way, and the top BTUs on ranges top out pretty fast from what I can tell. There are $1500-2k ranges that have as many advertise top BTUs as the $10k ones. Double oven is not clearly a net gain at any price point if you cook big things like turkeys. If I had the electrical system to power duel fuel I'd just go full electrical.

Fancy finishes, sure. But that's a lot of money for fancy finishes.

Other appliances / big home purchases seem to me to have much bigger obvious differences in meaningful features, and much more of a correlation between money and doing a better job (except fridges, which suck at all price ranges these days based on reviews). You see a lot more questionable reviews for low end couches, air conditioners, etc. than you do for high-end ones.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

Struensee posted:

Maybe a stupid question, but has anyone looked at whether just a battery, and whatever else is needed, hooked up to the grid, charging when the spot prices are low and powering the house when prices are high makes sense?

Most places you're being charged electricity rates set by your provider, not market based rates. I'm in Texas, but I live somewhere where the utility company is regulated, I'm not in an unregulated area. There might be plans in areas where you can pick your power company where time of day usage is less expensive, but that's probably not the case for most people in the US

For example, here's my electric bill from last month, and is almost a worse case scenario for me (We had like 2 weeks of 100 degree days). I think the most electricity I've ever used is 2700 kWh in a month which would add 36 bucks to this bill. I have a 3500 sq ft house with 2 AC units that pretty much run all summer non stop.

code:
Electric
Residential Electric
Service Availability Charge $9.10
Energy Charge 2,452 kWh x $0.07188 $176.25
Peak Capacity Charge 1,852 kWh x $0.0206 $38.15
Fuel Adjustment 2,452 kWh x $0.04093 $100.36
Regulatory Adj 2,452 kWh x $0.01278 $31.34
Total Electric Bill (Non-Taxable) $355.20
I use a ton of electricity. I pay the peak capacity charge for anything over 600 kWh I use in a billing cycle, plus there's a fuel adjustment charge that can vary a little bit from month to month. It doesn't matter if I use the electricity after 7PM or 2AM, I'm going to pay the same rate.

I really wish I could get the numbers to work for Solar, but it still doesn't make financial sense. Peak I'll be paying like 14.4 cents a kWh, it gets less expensive Oct to May, usually down to about 12 cents or so. The longest I'll be living in this house is another 12 years tops, so any time I've ran the numbers, the break even point is 20+ years down the road, if I ever hit the breakeven point at all inside 25 years. That also assumes my local utility keeps allowing net metering, which is not a sure thing at all.

If I lived somewhere where electricity with 30+ cents a kWh, I'm sure that makes the numbers better.

My neighbor spent almost 40K putting up a 12kW system on his house, and it's really nice, and pretty much zeros out his electric bill most months but 40K is ton of money and you don't generally get that money back when you sell the house. My local market might see like a 10K premium for a house with solar installed, but it definitely doesn't add 40K to the home value.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Academician Nomad posted:

What the expectations and value are at different pints are really unclear to me. Yeah there's WIFI and maybe *somebody* cares about that but I have negative interest in a "smart" stove. How am I helped by my phone alerting me the oven is hot instead of the beep from the oven? I'm usually home when I'm cooking! Not really clear to me what "more power" means in the context of a gas stove. Bigger burners, fine, but it's the same gas either way, and the top BTUs on ranges top out pretty fast from what I can tell. There are $1500-2k ranges that have as many advertise top BTUs as the $10k ones. Double oven is not clearly a net gain at any price point if you cook big things like turkeys. If I had the electrical system to power duel fuel I'd just go full electrical.

Fancy finishes, sure. But that's a lot of money for fancy finishes.

Other appliances / big home purchases seem to me to have much bigger obvious differences in meaningful features, and much more of a correlation between money and doing a better job (except fridges, which suck at all price ranges these days based on reviews). You see a lot more questionable reviews for low end couches, air conditioners, etc. than you do for high-end ones.

You will never find something if you go “what’s the best range” with no other modifiers.

Find out what features are available. Pick the ones you want (and the ones you specifically want to avoid). I haven’t shopped for ranges, but I assume burner type/placement, oven type, etc is the main thing here.

Find like 10-20 units that have those specific features, then look at all the 1-3 star reviews. The high reviews are useless. You use the 1-3 stars to find common issues across multiple people.

Wire cutter is always a good place to start to understand features and pick brands to hunt, and what might be useful vs what obviously isn’t.

https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/best-gas-ranges/

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

H110Hawk posted:

I'm ignoring the cost of capital there entirely and assuming you write a check for the full price up front.

As a homeowner, my time, and my money, is worth nothing.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


One thing to keep in mind with that 40k solar panel setup is that they would have gotten a decent federal rebate of 26% so that 40k system is now 29k. The rebate drops to 22% next year. After 2024 where there is currently no rebate it doesn’t make sense.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Academician Nomad posted:

What the expectations and value are at different pints are really unclear to me. Yeah there's WIFI and maybe *somebody* cares about that but I have negative interest in a "smart" stove. How am I helped by my phone alerting me the oven is hot instead of the beep from the oven? I'm usually home when I'm cooking! Not really clear to me what "more power" means in the context of a gas stove. Bigger burners, fine, but it's the same gas either way, and the top BTUs on ranges top out pretty fast from what I can tell. There are $1500-2k ranges that have as many advertise top BTUs as the $10k ones. Double oven is not clearly a net gain at any price point if you cook big things like turkeys. If I had the electrical system to power duel fuel I'd just go full electrical.

Fancy finishes, sure. But that's a lot of money for fancy finishes.

Other appliances / big home purchases seem to me to have much bigger obvious differences in meaningful features, and much more of a correlation between money and doing a better job (except fridges, which suck at all price ranges these days based on reviews). You see a lot more questionable reviews for low end couches, air conditioners, etc. than you do for high-end ones.

Why does a Lexus cost more than a Toyota Yaris? They're both internal combustion vehicles with four wheels, reasonably modern safety features, and will transport you from point A to point B just fine.

Turns out people will pay a lot more for fancy finishes, luxurious or frivolous extra features, and other indicators of quality, whether real or perceived.

Keyser_Soze
May 5, 2009

Pillbug
So the new Heat Pump Water Heater (Ruud 50 gallon PROUH50-T2-RU375-30amp) I had installed recently (to replace 40 gallon natural gas) is on pace to use about 60 kWh this month, which for my local blended electric rates of around $0.12/kWh will end up costing a whopping $7.20. Their EcoNet app actually appears to work too, despite the horrible reviews. Total cost to install was $750 since the city covers the unit cost.

Solar goes in next month (15 Panasonic 380's/Enphase (now) IQ8+) for 5.7 KW @ $18,000 ($3.16)

Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Jun 29, 2022

Academician Nomad
Jan 29, 2016

Cyrano4747 posted:

Why does a Lexus cost more than a Toyota Yaris? They're both internal combustion vehicles with four wheels, reasonably modern safety features, and will transport you from point A to point B just fine.

Turns out people will pay a lot more for fancy finishes, luxurious or frivolous extra features, and other indicators of quality, whether real or perceived.

Fine but I maintain that you don't see this trend for other major appliances / home purchases, yet every one of these arguments apply equally there. I'm sure the majority of the markup in a $10k coach is just name and intangibles vs. a $1k couch, but I'd also bet money a blind tester would find the $10k couch more comfortable. I don't know a lot about cars but I'd bet the Lexus has a smoother ride / better handling / quieter interior / possibly better gas mileage / less maintenance expected, which are meaningful even if inessential.

And you don't just see all 5-star reviews at all price points pretty much across brands for most goods, in my experience. Relatedly, the Wirecutter etc. lists seem to all have different stoves.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Academician Nomad posted:

Fine but I maintain that you don't see this trend for other major appliances / home purchases, yet every one of these arguments apply equally there. I'm sure the majority of the markup in a $10k coach is just name and intangibles vs. a $1k couch, but I'd also bet money a blind tester would find the $10k couch more comfortable. I don't know a lot about cars but I'd bet the Lexus has a smoother ride / better handling / quieter interior / possibly better gas mileage / less maintenance expected, which are meaningful even if inessential.

And you don't just see all 5-star reviews at all price points pretty much across brands for most goods, in my experience. Relatedly, the Wirecutter etc. lists seem to all have different stoves.

And you trust all those 5 star reviews?

At this point I don't trust any review that purports to aggregate user reviews in a number or star metric. Just so much bullshit, everywhere. And frankly your average person who has owned an appliance for all of a week before they get the nag email to review it is a piss poor judge of the over-all quality of it.

And yeah, you see this with all household appliances. If your basic criteria are "refrigerator with a freezer and ice maker" there's a HUGE range of options from quite affordable all the way up to insanely expensive. Yet they all keep food cold about the same and all make ice about the same.

Likewise for washers and dryers.

And coffee makers. I've got a fancy ~$120 programmable coffee maker that a relative got me as a gift and a cheap as poo poo ~$25 Mr. Coffee that I used to keep on my desk at work, and they both make coffee that tastes about the same.

If raw function is your only criteria there are aisles and aisles of rental-grade and builders grade stuff at Home Depot that you could outfit an entire house with, and most of it is perfectly functional.

It's stepping up to something that looks nicer, feels nicer to use, is easier to repair, has more and better spare parts available, lasts longer before replacement, has a better warranty, is made in the USA if you care about that, etc. that steps up the price.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Academician Nomad posted:

Fine but I maintain that you don't see this trend for other major appliances / home purchases, yet every one of these arguments apply equally there. I'm sure the majority of the markup in a $10k coach is just name and intangibles vs. a $1k couch, but I'd also bet money a blind tester would find the $10k couch more comfortable. I don't know a lot about cars but I'd bet the Lexus has a smoother ride / better handling / quieter interior / possibly better gas mileage / less maintenance expected, which are meaningful even if inessential.

And you don't just see all 5-star reviews at all price points pretty much across brands for most goods, in my experience. Relatedly, the Wirecutter etc. lists seem to all have different stoves.

It's non-linear cost growth, and much of it is profit margin. A $500 apartment special with nearly no electronics (piezo starters, maybe some kind ofelectric thermostatic control in the oven) is going to boil water fine, but it will be cramped in the oven (somehow), plain white, and the burners will have technically peak BTU around the same as a $1400 one on a per-burner basis, but will only have 4 burners, and the flame pattern will be like 6 jets shooting most of the heat around the side of your pans, and the oven temperature will be pretty wide inside of a single cycle and require a thermometer to get accurate temperatures compared to what the dial says. Oven door is light, no window.

A $1400 one will include timers, a clock, convection, a electronic lock on the oven, 2 more burners or a griddle down the middle, 20 little jets shooting slightly less of the heat straight out the sides of your pans, and be in a variety of color schemes. The burners and grills will look a little nicer, be thicker in general, and have little removable covers on the burners to make cleaning easy. The oven will hold a more consistent temperature (more, shorter cycles of the oven, maybe even some amount of modulation.) Not cramped inside, more shelves, easier adjustments of those shelves. This is what most homeowners will buy if they can afford it. The lowest settings on the smallest burners risk flame out if you're using a range hood, which you should be. Especially if they aren't "hot" yet. Modulation of temperature will be fairly course but very functional. Window in the oven door, heavier (better insulated) oven door.

A $5000+ one will have like 100+ tiny little jets in several circles of upward shooting flames helping even more of your same btu's are applied to your pan more evenly, not leaving a cold spot in the center and extremely hot walls. The lowest simmer setting will not be at risk of flame-out and be shockingly low heat. Modulation of temperature is very finely controlled, controls in general "feel better" in your hand. You're getting into very fit-and-finish sort of things here. Lots of options - you could spend some of the money on dual fuel for example. You're into lexus territory now.

$10k+ one will be all of the above, and a lot of brand cost, but also probably have a bunch of random features you never knew you wanted, definitely don't need, but who really cares you're dropping $10k on a stove? This is the BMW fit-and-finish stuff. Never go on the test drive, when you get back in your honda civic you will be really sad.

If you can afford it and cook a lot, especially technically complicated food, or bake, the high end burners really are a lot nicer to use, and an electric oven is great - no humidity problems, it doesn't dump heat into your home constantly, and temperature range is on point because it's not just dumping heat into your house constantly. But most people will land on that $1000-1400 setup because it's where you get past the discount specials and into well functioning nice looking stuff.

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Democratic Pirate
Feb 17, 2010

Anyone have lightning rod on their roof? A home in my area recently went up in a huge fire started by a lightning strike and all the neighbors are getting on the lightning rod train.

Statistically I know the risk of strikes is minimal, but the memory of 15 foot flames taking over the roof is hard to get out of my head.

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