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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Maybe on like a 5-year?

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an iksar marauder
May 6, 2022

An iksar marauder glowers at you dubiously -- looks like quite a gamble.
30 year European one but I’m still going to giggle about it

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

an iksar marauder posted:

30 year European one but I’m still going to giggle about it

Fixed rate for the life of the loan? That's a pretty great deal.

Omne
Jul 12, 2003

Orangedude Forever

I pay a touch extra on my 3.25% mortgage. $22.51 more. Because I'm a savage and like nice round numbers.

Harveygod
Jan 4, 2014

YEEAAH HEH HEH HEEEHH

YOU KNOW WHAT I'M SAYIN

THIS TRASH WAR AIN'T GONNA SOLVE ITSELF YA KNOW

Omne posted:

I pay a touch extra on my 3.25% mortgage. $22.51 more. Because I'm a savage and like nice round numbers.

Last year I refinanced to a 15-year at 2.375% (previously had 21 years left on a 4.375%).

I will admit, though, I have just a bit of irrational nostalgia for when my monthly payment was $1234.

SpelledBackwards
Jan 7, 2001

I found this image on the Internet, perhaps you've heard of it? It's been around for a while I hear.

My car payment due is something like $415.30, but I'm paying $420 per month. Maybe I should up it to $420.69.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Ramrod Hotshot posted:

Thanks. I've waited this long, might as well hold out for my precious I-Bonds.

As far as quick cash goes, any thoughts about money market funds right now?

Just stick it in a HYSA with Ally or one of the equivalent ones. No need to over think it and you get FDIC protections.

pseudanonymous
Aug 30, 2008

When you make the second entry and the debits and credits balance, and you blow them to hell.

SpelledBackwards posted:

My car payment due is something like $415.30, but I'm paying $420 per month. Maybe I should up it to $420.69.

Nice.

Valicious
Aug 16, 2010
Quoting this because it got absolutely buried a few pages back. My goal is to firm up a strategy now so I can stick with it and not think about it.

Valicious posted:

Hello goons, it’s been a while since my last post in this thread. I’m increasing my contributions to my 401k and taxable accounts, but I could use some assistance in optimizing my portfolio as a whole to be as tax-efficient as can be.
HOLDINGS
-Roth IRA
AVLV - 27.33%
AVUV - 31.77%
AVIV - 15.81%
AVDV - 12.98%
AVES - 12.08%

-Taxable (I know I know, I’m not putting any more into stocks.)
VTI - 35.81%
VXUS - 22.33%
VDE - 11.83%
AVUV - 6.33%
AVLV - 5.79%
VHT - 3.72%
ASPS - 7.05%
F - 4.35%
SHMP - 2.82%

My goal is to have my entire portfolio mimic what the target allocation for my Roth IRA is. Would this be? (Is there an advantage to deviating from market cap?)
Taxable- 30% AVLV, 30% AVUV
Roth IRA- 14% AVIV, 14% AVDV, 12% AVES

My BIG question regards tax-loss harvesting. I understand it in concept (mostly), but I’m still confused how to put it into practice. Can I get a step-by-step guide using the funds I have? When/how often should I do this? Should I just sell the stocks now at a loss and reinvest into AVLV/AVUV, or just keep them becoming an ever smaller % as I keep investing in the indexes?

Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal

nelson posted:

If I retired early, I would live in a different country.

Move to one with universal health care.

CubicalSucrose
Jan 1, 2013

Phantom my Opera and call me South Park: Bigger, Longer, & Uncut

Valicious posted:

Quoting this because it got absolutely buried a few pages back. My goal is to firm up a strategy now so I can stick with it and not think about it.

I don't understand your goal. You say you want to mimic your Roth target allocation. What is your Roth target allocation? You provided your current Roth allocation but I think I'm missing something?

Valicious
Aug 16, 2010

CubicalSucrose posted:

I don't understand your goal. You say you want to mimic your Roth target allocation. What is your Roth target allocation? You provided your current Roth allocation but I think I'm missing something?

Oops, I accidentally left that out. My target allocation is weighted at market cap (as below), but I’m unsure if/what advantages lie in deviating from market cap weighting.
AVLV - 30%
AVUV - 30%
AVIV - 14%
AVDV - 14%
AVES - 12%

I want that to be my overall portfolio, not just my IRA. AVLV and AVUV go in taxable, and the rest in my Roth IRA right?
My biggest question is about tax loss harvesting though. I read that it losses carry over year-to-year, so am I correct that you want to start early to reduce the tax drag on dividends? I’m a bit fuzzy on the step by step of it. (Especially given the funds I selected)

Eric Cantonese
Dec 21, 2004

You should hear my accent.

Valicious posted:

Oops, I accidentally left that out. My target allocation is weighted at market cap (as below), but I’m unsure if/what advantages lie in deviating from market cap weighting.
AVLV - 30%
AVUV - 30%
AVIV - 14%
AVDV - 14%
AVES - 12%

I want that to be my overall portfolio, not just my IRA. AVLV and AVUV go in taxable, and the rest in my Roth IRA right?
My biggest question is about tax loss harvesting though. I read that it losses carry over year-to-year, so am I correct that you want to start early to reduce the tax drag on dividends? I’m a bit fuzzy on the step by step of it. (Especially given the funds I selected)

I'm curious what the others say. From what I can tell, AVES is an emerging markets fund and the rest are either domestic or international "large cap value" and "small cap value" funds. All of the value indexes are trying to capture stocks that are "underpriced" relative to the rest of the market because upside potential is theoretically greater. "Value" hasn't been doing great during the recent frothy bull market, but recent past results aren't an indication of future performance, though.

I think you may want to rephrase your allocation according to stock type instead of ticker symbol. I'm not quite sure why you're in all those value funds for your Roth anyways. You could be bumping up your VTI and VXUS investments in your taxable and getting close to a market weighted allocation between US and international stocks if that's what you're really aiming for. Maybe the misunderstanding is on my end.

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

an iksar marauder posted:

1.42% and I’m not even going to pretend I’m not blatantly bragging

0.96% and 1.28% here

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

Inexperienced,
heartless,
but even so

Elephanthead posted:

Move to one with universal health care.

I lust for Barcelona

Valicious
Aug 16, 2010

Eric Cantonese posted:

I'm curious what the others say. From what I can tell, AVES is an emerging markets fund and the rest are either domestic or international "large cap value" and "small cap value" funds. All of the value indexes are trying to capture stocks that are "underpriced" relative to the rest of the market because upside potential is theoretically greater. "Value" hasn't been doing great during the recent frothy bull market, but recent past results aren't an indication of future performance, though.

I think you may want to rephrase your allocation according to stock type instead of ticker symbol. I'm not quite sure why you're in all those value funds for your Roth anyways. You could be bumping up your VTI and VXUS investments in your taxable and getting close to a market weighted allocation between US and international stocks if that's what you're really aiming for. Maybe the misunderstanding is on my end.

I listened to a lot of what Ben Felix had to say on value index investing, and that sent me down the research rabbit hole. I’m mainly asking how to go about tax-loss harvesting using AVLV (US Value Large Cap) and AVUV (US Value Small Cap) that are in my taxable account.
Here’s my target market cap-weighted allocation for my portfolio as a whole (with names vs only ticker symbols)
Roth IRA
14% AVDV - AVANTIS INTL SMALL CAP VALUE ETF
12% AVES - AVANTIS EMERGING MARKETS VALUE ETF
14% AVIV - AVANTIS INTL LARGE CAP VALUE ETF
In taxable
30% AVLV - AVANTIS U S LARGE CAP VALUE ETF
30% AVUV - AVANTIS U S SMALL CAP VALUE ETF

Takes No Damage
Nov 20, 2004

The most merciful thing in the world, I think, is the inability of the human mind to correlate all its contents. We live on a placid island of ignorance in the midst of black seas of infinity, and it was not meant that we should voyage far.


Grimey Drawer
This afternoon my dad was talking up I Bonds through TreasuryDirect. He's usually pretty good about these things so I'm doing some research as well. Looking around and skimming the last few months of this thread it sounds like a pretty good deal, basically a savings account with higher interest and the tradeoff that I can't touch it without penalty for 5 years?

Since it's sitting at near 10% right now, is there any reason not to go in on the 10k maximum ASAP? Is interest calculated over time or just once at the end of each 6 months?

Related, is there any reason to break your purchases up into smaller pieces vs one 10k buy? Set up a monthly purchase of $833 or something? Only reason I can think of is the edge case where you want to pull some of the cash back out but leave the rest.

Duckman2008
Jan 6, 2010

TFW you see Flyers goaltending.
Grimey Drawer

Takes No Damage posted:

This afternoon my dad was talking up I Bonds through TreasuryDirect. He's usually pretty good about these things so I'm doing some research as well. Looking around and skimming the last few months of this thread it sounds like a pretty good deal, basically a savings account with higher interest and the tradeoff that I can't touch it without penalty for 5 years?

Since it's sitting at near 10% right now, is there any reason not to go in on the 10k maximum ASAP? Is interest calculated over time or just once at the end of each 6 months?

Related, is there any reason to break your purchases up into smaller pieces vs one 10k buy? Set up a monthly purchase of $833 or something? Only reason I can think of is the edge case where you want to pull some of the cash back out but leave the rest.

The only reason to not not do I Bonds is if you need the cash within 1 year, because you cannot withdraw it within 1 year.

I Bonds are pegged to inflation. So I’m reality, it’s meant to not have your money lose value. Before Covid, I Bonds were at like, 0.5-1% give or take. Basically, just fyi it won’t always be 9-10%.

You also do pay tax on the gains, either each year, or all together whenever you withdraw it.


That all said, I’ve invested $5k myself this year , the only reason I haven’t maxed yet is managing cash flow, I probably will max it by end of the year.

So I would recommend it, if you have the cash to do it all at once, great, do it, and make sure not to neglect your investment space like Roth 401k. I Bonds are not meant to replace those savings, more it’s an extra avenue.


Oh, and warning: the Treasury website is functional but def sucks. My account got locked out once and I had to wait on hold for an hour to get it unlocked (it’s been fine since).

WithoutTheFezOn
Aug 28, 2005
Oh no

Takes No Damage posted:

Related, is there any reason to break your purchases up into smaller pieces vs one 10k buy? Set up a monthly purchase of $833 or something? Only reason I can think of is the edge case where you want to pull some of the cash back out but leave the rest.
If it helps answer your question, the website says you can cash out purchases in increments of $50. So you can buy $5000 right now and cash out only $800 in a year if you want to.

Tortilla Maker
Dec 13, 2005
Un Desmadre A Toda Madre
Question about early withdrawal from a Roth IRA:

If I've contributed $15,000 (and current value is $17,00) and am withdrawing $5,000, do I still pay the 10% penalty?

Or is there no penalty since I'm withdrawing less than I've contributed?

(Younger than 59.5; contributions made less than 5 years ago)

DNK
Sep 18, 2004

No, you don’t need to pay any penalties or taxes. That said, this is an uncommon event and it’s unlikely that your tax software and/or accountant will be familiar with the situation.

I posted about this a while back. Check my post history. Should have been around April 2019.

DNK
Sep 18, 2004

DNK, Feb 2019 posted:

I just went through withdrawing Roth IRA contributions. You get a 1099-R from your financial institution showing the disbursement of funds coded ‘J’ — distribution without a known exemption. File that exactly as it is given to you by your brokerage.

You then need to file form 8606 which is where you declare your Roth IRA basis (...and where everyone should be declaring their basis on every tax year, regardless of withdrawals. Note I haven’t done this in the past and it is not required; in the event of an audit it would be nice to have a long trail showing steady contributions). This is also where you show how much was disbursed without exemption.

I purchased and discussed the nuances of this with my tax software provider, and they claimed this was sufficient for filing your taxes and being square with the IRS. Notably, I was not told to file form 5329 / input any information about the non-exempt withdrawal. The entire show, as it is, is described in 8606 showing your basis and a withdrawal of less than that basis.

Now, if you withdraw MORE than your contributions, then you will need to file form 5329 and describe that. Additionally, if you withdraw more than your contributions but DO have a exemption (I.e. first time homebuyer but <$10k in principal), you will need to file 5329.

hth

adnam
Aug 28, 2006

Christmas Whale fully subsidized by ThatsMyBoye

Ramrod Hotshot posted:

Looking for a place to park cash, i.e. emergency funds or reserves for big future purchases. Tried to do the I-Bond thing but they couldn't verify me, I sent my paperwork in with a medallion stamp a few weeks ago, and I just now got an email back saying that I should "please allow 13 weeks for processing and review" :haw: So who loving knows. Other options? Here's an article from the NY Times about the current state of money market. TLDR rates are going up but still losing against inflation. That's ok if it's still better than cash and I can still access it fast.

For cash that I can have somewhat more in reserve, as opposed to I think I'll need it for my bills soon, not sure whether it's better to wait to finally get approval for I-Bonds or to go with CDs or something.

If it's any consolation I've spent hours on the phone w/ TD and enlisted a third cousin (and paid him) to help me get in touch and so far I don't have any follow-up email/snail mail or anything as to where I am in I-bond limbo. :sigh: Will try to get mrs. adnam to buy her own i-bonds in the meanwhile.

SamDabbers posted:

My mortgage is 2.875% and I don't think I will ever make more than the minimum payment.

2.875% crew :whatup:

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
:lol: @ interest being set in eighths of a percent.

MockingQuantum
Jan 20, 2012



withak posted:

:lol: @ interest being set in eighths of a percent.

I'm not sure when that started but I feel like it's now a dead giveaway that you refinanced in 2020-2021 for some reason, I'm also a 2.875%

runawayturtles
Aug 2, 2004

Valicious posted:

I listened to a lot of what Ben Felix had to say on value index investing, and that sent me down the research rabbit hole. I’m mainly asking how to go about tax-loss harvesting using AVLV (US Value Large Cap) and AVUV (US Value Small Cap) that are in my taxable account.
Here’s my target market cap-weighted allocation for my portfolio as a whole (with names vs only ticker symbols)
Roth IRA
14% AVDV - AVANTIS INTL SMALL CAP VALUE ETF
12% AVES - AVANTIS EMERGING MARKETS VALUE ETF
14% AVIV - AVANTIS INTL LARGE CAP VALUE ETF
In taxable
30% AVLV - AVANTIS U S LARGE CAP VALUE ETF
30% AVUV - AVANTIS U S SMALL CAP VALUE ETF

Without wanting to research alternatives to Avantis funds, you could just pair those two with Vanguard large cap value and small cap value, no?

Takes No Damage
Nov 20, 2004

The most merciful thing in the world, I think, is the inability of the human mind to correlate all its contents. We live on a placid island of ignorance in the midst of black seas of infinity, and it was not meant that we should voyage far.


Grimey Drawer

Duckman2008 posted:

The only reason to not not do I Bonds is if you need the cash within 1 year, because you cannot withdraw it within 1 year.

I Bonds are pegged to inflation. So I’m reality, it’s meant to not have your money lose value. Before Covid, I Bonds were at like, 0.5-1% give or take. Basically, just fyi it won’t always be 9-10%.

You also do pay tax on the gains, either each year, or all together whenever you withdraw it.


That all said, I’ve invested $5k myself this year , the only reason I haven’t maxed yet is managing cash flow, I probably will max it by end of the year.

So I would recommend it, if you have the cash to do it all at once, great, do it, and make sure not to neglect your investment space like Roth 401k. I Bonds are not meant to replace those savings, more it’s an extra avenue.

Cool, and yeah I also have 401k through work and am slowly rolling over a Trad IRA into a Roth. But I never did that much with my money even before Covid so most of my cash is just sitting around in a savings account earning .bullshit% interest.

Just to check my understanding, the interest is compounded semiannually (based on the fiscal year I assume, so May and November), which means if the interest rate was 10% and I put in a total of 10k anytime up until October 31st, on November 1st my 10k would become 11k, right? Or is each 6 month block just to lock in that interest rate, so if I buy 10k on October 31st it would become 11k at the end of April 2023? Still trying to understand if it matters WHEN you buy within each 6 month block.

Duckman2008 posted:

Oh, and warning: the Treasury website is functional but def sucks. My account got locked out once and I had to wait on hold for an hour to get it unlocked (it’s been fine since).

I watched my dad sign up through the website last night, my only thought was that they were intentionally making it painful and convoluted in order to control how many people were trying to use it at once. Like, a keyboard on the website itself that you have to click your password into, and it's not even case sensitive? :wtf:

bitprophet
Jul 22, 2004
Taco Defender

MockingQuantum posted:

I'm not sure when that started but I feel like it's now a dead giveaway that you refinanced in 2020-2021 for some reason, I'm also a 2.875%
I bought my house (at age 38 :v:) in April 2020, the mortgage rate was 3.25%.

…but then we refinanced in October/November - yes, still 2020 - for…2.875% :whatup:

(Equated to about an $800/mo reduction in monthly P&I payments, or something like $30k over the lifetime of the mortgage. Was stupid amounts more paperwork but probably worth it!)

Now if only I could get somebody to fix a roof leak in a timely manner…

crazysim
May 23, 2004
I AM SOOOOO GAY

Takes No Damage posted:

Cool, and yeah I also have 401k through work and am slowly rolling over a Trad IRA into a Roth. But I never did that much with my money even before Covid so most of my cash is just sitting around in a savings account earning .bullshit% interest.

Just to check my understanding, the interest is compounded semiannually (based on the fiscal year I assume, so May and November), which means if the interest rate was 10% and I put in a total of 10k anytime up until October 31st, on November 1st my 10k would become 11k, right? Or is each 6 month block just to lock in that interest rate, so if I buy 10k on October 31st it would become 11k at the end of April 2023? Still trying to understand if it matters WHEN you buy within each 6 month block.

I watched my dad sign up through the website last night, my only thought was that they were intentionally making it painful and convoluted in order to control how many people were trying to use it at once. Like, a keyboard on the website itself that you have to click your password into, and it's not even case sensitive? :wtf:

Re: Password

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2892928&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1034#post524141476

Tortilla Maker
Dec 13, 2005
Un Desmadre A Toda Madre

Great info. Thanks for sharing and confirming!

Duckman2008
Jan 6, 2010

TFW you see Flyers goaltending.
Grimey Drawer

Takes No Damage posted:

Cool, and yeah I also have 401k through work and am slowly rolling over a Trad IRA into a Roth. But I never did that much with my money even before Covid so most of my cash is just sitting around in a savings account earning .bullshit% interest.

Just to check my understanding, the interest is compounded semiannually (based on the fiscal year I assume, so May and November), which means if the interest rate was 10% and I put in a total of 10k anytime up until October 31st, on November 1st my 10k would become 11k, right? Or is each 6 month block just to lock in that interest rate, so if I buy 10k on October 31st it would become 11k at the end of April 2023? Still trying to understand if it matters WHEN you buy within each 6 month block.

I watched my dad sign up through the website last night, my only thought was that they were intentionally making it painful and convoluted in order to control how many people were trying to use it at once. Like, a keyboard on the website itself that you have to click your password into, and it's not even case sensitive? :wtf:

It gives you the interest every month, it doesn’t take 6 months to show up. The rates change every 6 months.

I think what it is , is whatever rate it is when you sign up, you have that for 6 months, then it changes accordingly to whatever the updated rate is.

Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust

It does take 3 months before you see any interest because of that pesky penalty if you withdraw before 5 years

EmmaDilemma
Jul 22, 2019
2022 so far in a nutshell
Series I Bond crushing it
401k/IRA down 10%

Gotta think long term, long term, and retirement.

Duckman2008
Jan 6, 2010

TFW you see Flyers goaltending.
Grimey Drawer

EmmaDilemma posted:

2022 so far in a nutshell
Series I Bond crushing it
401k/IRA down 10%

Gotta think long term, long term, and retirement.

Just gotta ride the wave and remember any money in 401k type funds is there for 30+ years and long term won’t be down 10% after 30 years (in shallah).

Can’t time the market, etc. just keep investing in both IMO.


Also, I Bonds are taxed , some 401ks like a Roth are not.

Subvisual Haze
Nov 22, 2003

The building was on fire and it wasn't my fault.

Takes No Damage posted:

Cool, and yeah I also have 401k through work and am slowly rolling over a Trad IRA into a Roth. But I never did that much with my money even before Covid so most of my cash is just sitting around in a savings account earning .bullshit% interest.

Just to check my understanding, the interest is compounded semiannually (based on the fiscal year I assume, so May and November), which means if the interest rate was 10% and I put in a total of 10k anytime up until October 31st, on November 1st my 10k would become 11k, right? Or is each 6 month block just to lock in that interest rate, so if I buy 10k on October 31st it would become 11k at the end of April 2023? Still trying to understand if it matters WHEN you buy within each 6 month block.

I watched my dad sign up through the website last night, my only thought was that they were intentionally making it painful and convoluted in order to control how many people were trying to use it at once. Like, a keyboard on the website itself that you have to click your password into, and it's not even case sensitive? :wtf:

I would say just buy in to the yearly max $10k of I-bonds as soon as possible. The >9% interest is insane. Compare that to a 1 year CD rate of 2.0-2.5%! Only real downsides are that you can't withdraw at all before 1 year, and if you cash out before 5 years you lose 3 months of interest.

There is some theorycrafting online about timing of purchase because the current interest rate is locked in for the first 6 months so some wonder if you should wait to see if the October rate is higher and then locking that in. I think that's probably foolish though. The lost money from not accumulating any interest at all for several months on the hope that hte future rate is higher sounds like a clear net loss.

As best as I understand: your amount accumulates interest at the start of every month (and treats partial months as full ones, so if you put in money at the end of June you still get the monthly July 1 interest payout as if it were in the account for all of June). New rates are set twice-yearly at start of May and October, but for the first 6 months of your bond you follow the initial interest rate from when you opened it. Also interest compounds into principle every 6 months after the start date.

So I think it's like this. If I dropped in $10k today, my current rate would be 9.62%. That rate times $10k divided into 12 monthly interest payments, would mean at the start of each of the next 6 months I would be paid $80 interest. 6 months of payments later my principle would compound to $10,480 and a new monthly payment would be calculated based on that and whatever the rate has changed to at that time.

Duckman2008
Jan 6, 2010

TFW you see Flyers goaltending.
Grimey Drawer

Subvisual Haze posted:


So I think it's like this. If I dropped in $10k today, my current rate would be 9.62%. That rate times $10k divided into 12 monthly interest payments, would mean at the start of each of the next 6 months I would be paid $80 interest. 6 months of payments later my principle would compound to $10,480 and a new monthly payment would be calculated based on that and whatever the rate has changed to at that time.

Omg thank you for this. Best explanation.

runawayturtles
Aug 2, 2004

Subvisual Haze posted:

As best as I understand: your amount accumulates interest at the start of every month (and treats partial months as full ones, so if you put in money at the end of June you still get the monthly July 1 interest payout as if it were in the account for all of June). New rates are set twice-yearly at start of May and October, but for the first 6 months of your bond you follow the initial interest rate from when you opened it. Also interest compounds into principle every 6 months after the start date.

According to previous posts about this, it's not that it follows the current rate after the first 6 months, but that the rate changes to the current rate every 6 months for the life of the bond. So, if you buy in June, your rate will always update to the current rate every June and December. The dates when new rates are set are not all that relevant.

pseudanonymous
Aug 30, 2008

When you make the second entry and the debits and credits balance, and you blow them to hell.
Is anyone actually doing the math on these I-bonds or all you all just salivating over the current interest rate. You get that for 6 months, the fixed rate is 0 thereafter. You also pay full tax on the interest when you cash it out, so if you're planning to get 30 years of CPI on 10k, sure um I guess great and then cash it when your retired because in theory your in a lower tax bracket but like, some of the same people panting to backdoor Roths are also buying I-bonds.

Also here is when your interest rates take effect:

code:
Issue month of your bond	New rates take effect
January	                        January 1 and July 1
February	                February 1 and August 1
March	                        March 1 and September 1
April                     	April 1 and October 1
May	                        May 1 and November 1
June	                        June 1 and December 1
July	                        July 1 and January 1
August	                        August 1 and February 1
September	                September 1 and March 1
October	                        October 1 and April 1
November	                November 1 and May 1
December	                December 1 and June 1
If you're maxing out all tax-advantaged space and just also want to grab this as a kind of inflation hedge, sure I see that. Other than that it seems like a huge amount of hassle to your grubby mitts on 9.6% * 10,000 for 6 months.

This feels like crypto investing to me, like "what if the US dollar becomes worthless" well definitely nobody is going to give a poo poo about the solution to digital sudoku puzzles that take an hour to transfer to someone else when you can't buy food with US currency anymore.

If I-bonds outperform the market consistently for any length of time the US economy is hosed.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

pseudanonymous posted:

Is anyone actually doing the math on these I-bonds or all you all just salivating over the current interest rate. You get that for 6 months, the fixed rate is 0 thereafter.

The fixed rate is 0 right now. Do you think that after 6 months the only thing you get is the fixed rate? Because that's not how these work.

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pseudanonymous
Aug 30, 2008

When you make the second entry and the debits and credits balance, and you blow them to hell.

Motronic posted:

The fixed rate is 0 right now. Do you think that after 6 months the only thing you get is the fixed rate? Because that's not how these work.

No, I know exactly how they work. The question is do you?

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

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