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dema
Aug 13, 2006

Hypnolobster posted:

Pictured: minimal impact on the knees
sorry:thejoke:

Hah, that bit of trail is actually perfectly fine on a HT. Occasional big hits, or a few seconds of rocky trail, are no problem. It's hauling over long stretches of rocky bullshit that everything falls apart.

I get my Switchblade on Tuesday.

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Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005

PolishPandaBear posted:

Nice, I've been riding for long enough that I should be decent, but it's hard to split time between road and mountain biking. I know about Portuguese Bend, but I didn't know there were trails there.

Well, the hitch adapter is ordered. I'll have to head over when it's installed. The trails I usually ride have been incredibly hot and it'd be nice to check out something cooler. I'll send you a PM.

There's a ton of trails up in PV proper, malaga is like borderline PV/torrance and it's mainly jumpy stuff and lots of sand, couple quick singletracks but that's it. Grats on the hitch setup too, you'll enjoy it!

Also, anybody that may know.. post-summit bike park, my hub sounds somewhat weird. When I'm walking the bike, the hub sounds like it's alternating sounds. It goes tik tik tik tik tok tok tok tok tok tik tik tik tik.. almost as if it sounds like a normal hub for half of the rotation, then suddenly sounds like an expensive hub for half of the rotation, then back to normal. Ideas?

Frozen Pizza Party fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Jul 1, 2022

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
My shock broke recently so I was browsing replacements. Nothing new available but another fox float dps or a sidluxe on pinkbike were generally going for sub $300. There were a couple of xfusion o2s in my size for like $80. But then I found a loaner and turnaround is going to be quicker than I thought so I don't think I need to buy one.

Also having it revalved from linear to digressive. I kinda get linear valving with a progressive air spring but at the same time I'd like the shock to feel more firm when pedaling hard and am hoping this improves that a bit. So we'll see if I notice much difference. Would be nice to leave the suspension in trail a little more often, as is I'm always locking it all out.

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum

yoohoo posted:

I want to upgrade the fork on my Fuel ex7 but I'm not really sure where to start. I want something a little burlier and more responsive but am also toying with the idea of upgrading to 150mm. I've currently got a RockShox 35 Gold w/ 140mm.

I was thinking something along the lines of a Lyrik or a Fox 36, but I found good deals on a Marzocchi Bomber and a Fox 34 Factory (but they're both 140mm). Will the upgraded fork make enough of a difference that I won't even care about it not being 150mm? I've been gravitating towards steeper and chunkier trails lately and am planning on getting a park pass for the first time when they open so I definitely want something that will hold up to that.

Is there anything else I should be looking at?

I'd say go for 150mm. It'll slightly raise the BB but it'll also shorten the reach a little and also slacken the head angle a bit which will be better for steeper and chunkier trails. You could probably go for a Pike instead of a Lyrik at 150mm but any of those - Pike, Lyrik or Fox 36 will be a huge improvement over a Rockshox 35. I don't have any experience with the Bomber but I think going up to 150mm and getting a new, better fork will be a big upgrade.

I did that on my old bike, I went from 150mm to 160mm. Same fork (Pike), but also upgraded the damper from soloair to debonair and it was night and day, highly recommended.

vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain
At 150 id go lyrik or 36.

Nyyen
Jun 26, 2005

MACHINE MEN
with MACHINE MINDS
and MACHINE HEARTS
Need some guidance. I'm in the market for a new bike and I'm shooting for something to tour gravel mostly, which can also do chunky fire roads, climb jeep trails, and handle single track if needed. I want a 1x drivetrain, a dropper, and drop bars. I've largely figured out what kit to put on the frame but I'm struggling to decide what frame.

I've been on a 2017 Soma Wolverine since 2016 which has been great, but the road bike shape and somewhat aggressive geo/twitchy front end hasn't been great. I've always felt a bit stretched out and since getting my first modern mtn bike with 750mm+ bar I really wanted to go for something really wide in the cockpit while still having the range of hand positions for 50+ mile days. I really love my Canyon Neuron and would ride it everywhere but the lack of space on the bike and the flat bars/suspension makes it not the best for anything past 30 miles, and I just plain like how a full rigid with drops looks.

Additionally, I've been wanting a bare-metal/polished frame bike for years so when I saw that Otso was releasing the Fenrir, a "gravel touring" bike in polished stainless steel, I was really interested. Looking at the numbers though, I was wondering how it would handle compared to my Wolverine. I always ride with a front bag and the Wolverine has always been to twitchy to every ride hands off, and can be scary on really fast descents. I was looking for something with more trail for stability and also a bit less reach so I could be a bit more upright and take some weight off my hands. I've also been looking at the Salsa Fargo. I put a comparison of everything below.

If I'm looking for a frame that is a bit more upright/relaxed, more stable/confident in the descents, and gives me more of the ride feel of my trail bike what sort of things should I be looking for? How would a Salso Fargo or Otso Fenrir compare to my Wolverine and Neuron? How might long days on the bike feel differently when compared to my more traditionally shaped Wolverine? Help, I've read too much and now I know nothing.

yoohoo
Nov 15, 2004
A little disrespect and rudeness can elevate a meaningless interaction to a battle of wills and add drama to an otherwise dull day

Aphex- posted:

I'd say go for 150mm. It'll slightly raise the BB but it'll also shorten the reach a little and also slacken the head angle a bit which will be better for steeper and chunkier trails. You could probably go for a Pike instead of a Lyrik at 150mm but any of those - Pike, Lyrik or Fox 36 will be a huge improvement over a Rockshox 35. I don't have any experience with the Bomber but I think going up to 150mm and getting a new, better fork will be a big upgrade.

I did that on my old bike, I went from 150mm to 160mm. Same fork (Pike), but also upgraded the damper from soloair to debonair and it was night and day, highly recommended.

Cool, thanks. I want the Lyrik but the 150 is out of stock on a lot of sites. There's a bunch of sales this weekend (in the US) so I'm kinda going by whatever is available. I've been reading about the Bomber and the Z1 seems pretty comparable to the 36 or Lyrik. Maybe not nearly as stiff or responsive, but still a solid fork. And like you said, anything is going to be a vast improvement over what I've currently got.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx
Z1 is basically a Fox 36 Rhythm with slightly different castings for the uppers and lowers. It’s like half a pound heavier than a 36, and a very good fork.

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
After pinching 4 tubes in the last month, I'm converting to tubeless. I was running 25 PSI so it's not even like I was running low pressures at all. That's biking in New England, I guess.

I've trued the wheels, removed the rim tape, and now I'm just waiting for the package in the mail. Wish me luck.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




um excuse me posted:

After pinching 4 tubes in the last month, I'm converting to tubeless. I was running 25 PSI so it's not even like I was running low pressures at all. That's biking in New England, I guess.

I've trued the wheels, removed the rim tape, and now I'm just waiting for the package in the mail. Wish me luck.

How much do you weigh? Depending on weight, that may be way too low. If you're getting pinch flats the first thing you should do is up the pressure.


I don't have any answers but I'm curious what site this is? I've used 99spokes.com for comparing geo but this looks nice as well.

Nyyen
Jun 26, 2005

MACHINE MEN
with MACHINE MINDS
and MACHINE HEARTS

Suburban Dad posted:

How much do you weigh? Depending on weight, that may be way too low. If you're getting pinch flats the first thing you should do is up the pressure.

I don't have any answers but I'm curious what site this is? I've used 99spokes.com for comparing geo but this looks nice as well.

https://geometrygeeks.bike/


https://bikeinsights.com/ is really good too for getting a visual comparison between frames.

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Suburban Dad posted:

How much do you weigh? Depending on weight, that may be way too low. If you're getting pinch flats the first thing you should do is up the pressure.

I don't have any answers but I'm curious what site this is? I've used 99spokes.com for comparing geo but this looks nice as well.

180 pounds. I run 26x2.4 inch tire. I went up to 30 psi and just started slipping on everything. On roots, rocks, downhill was very sketchy, no climbing grip. While I think higher pressure may fix pinch flats, it's at a cost of literally everything else except rolling resistance.

um excuse me fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jul 1, 2022

yoohoo
Nov 15, 2004
A little disrespect and rudeness can elevate a meaningless interaction to a battle of wills and add drama to an otherwise dull day
Last fork question - how important is it that I match the offset? Thinking 44mm vs 42mm.

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Fork offset determines the self straightening ability of the steering. The higher the offset, the faster you can transition and it will feel more agile, but may feel wobbly or unstable at higher speed. The trend has been to reduce offset, I'm not sure to what end though. 2mm seems like an inconsequential difference to me, but I've never had a side by side to compare. Offset works in combination with head tube angle and tire size.

um excuse me fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Jul 1, 2022

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum

yoohoo posted:

Last fork question - how important is it that I match the offset? Thinking 44mm vs 42mm.

If you're going from 140mm 44mm offset to 150mm 42mm offset that'll be fine because usually the slacker the head angle, the less offset is generally considered better.

in a well actually
Jan 26, 2011

dude, you gotta end it on the rhyme

taqueso posted:

I thought this book was really good and it could help you with cornering. I got it after I had been mountain biking for years and felt like I knew what I was doing and still learned a lot of stuff about body position and weight distribution; and navigating corners, bumps, etc.



I’ve picked this up and have really been enjoying it even if the bike recs at the beginning are a bit dated (they’re really into 27.5 plus and the first result for that on google is “27.5 plus is dead” heh)

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I read that, didn't get much out of it. Bought specifically for my jumping issue I've mentioned before but nothing really clicked. Got good sight habits and bike positioning out of it though.

Finally, after 10 years of riding, switched to tubeless. Went with Maxxis Minion DHF - 26x2.35. They won't do me any favors on rocks and roots, but they should be a treat for climbing and downhill.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

um excuse me posted:

I read that, didn't get much out of it. Bought specifically for my jumping issue I've mentioned before but nothing really clicked. Got good sight habits and bike positioning out of it though.

Finally, after 10 years of riding, switched to tubeless. Went with Maxxis Minion DHF - 26x2.35. They won't do me any favors on rocks and roots, but they should be a treat for climbing and downhill.



Actually those tires are nearly perfect for rocks and roots and downhill.

yoohoo
Nov 15, 2004
A little disrespect and rudeness can elevate a meaningless interaction to a battle of wills and add drama to an otherwise dull day
I found a Lyrik 150 for the same price as a Bomber so just pulled the trigger on that. Can’t wait for this thing to arrive. I’ve never replaced a fork before but it seems relatively straight forward (based on the single YouTube video I watched).

Eejit
Mar 6, 2007

Swiss Army Cockatoo
Cacatua multitoolii

yoohoo posted:

I’ve never replaced a fork before but it seems relatively straight forward (based on the single YouTube video I watched).

Famous last words!

Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005



Did a thing! Went to Waterworks in San Clemente, CA and had a blast. Except for the 6 or so gigachad teens with no helmets and electric motorcycles (not ebikes, no pedals) tearing the everliving gently caress out of the jumps and trails by doing burnouts, skids and just tossing rocks/dust everywhere.

I'm not against ebikes or anything, but leave your full on motorcycles at home for multi-use trails (hike, bike, horse, no dogs allowed) and wear a helmet folks.

pinarello dogman
Jun 17, 2013

yoohoo posted:

I found a Lyrik 150 for the same price as a Bomber so just pulled the trigger on that. Can’t wait for this thing to arrive. I’ve never replaced a fork before but it seems relatively straight forward (based on the single YouTube video I watched).

Make sure you don't cut the steerer too short. Like seriously.

Other than that it's super easy if you have a split crown race. If you don't then it can be a pain without the right tools.

vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain

VelociBacon posted:

Actually those tires are nearly perfect for rocks and roots and downhill.

Agree w this

JUST MAKING CHILI
Feb 14, 2008
Before:

After:


Upgrades complete!
  • New wheels - FSA Grid 29ers
  • New rubber - Specialized Butcher front Purgatory rear
  • Wheels and tires are tubeless ready, so I made that switch too
  • New drivetrain - Sram Eagle NX 1x12 - 32t chainring, 11-50t cassette

Did everything myself except the tubeless tire mounting since I don't have a compressor or high volume pump. Pretty sure that the wheelset is wider, sturdier, and lighter than the OEM wheels, and the wider tires sit on them perfectly. I can get into every gear, but it still needs tuning because of occasional skips when down/upshifting. Time for a shakedown ride!

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

VelociBacon posted:

Actually those tires are nearly perfect for rocks and roots and downhill.

It's been my experience that trail tires do much better on rocks and roots, and that the super nobby stuff tends to slips and skip. But I hope you're right.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

um excuse me posted:

It's been my experience that trail tires do much better on rocks and roots, and that the super nobby stuff tends to slips and skip. But I hope you're right.

I guess it depends on the rocks and roots! But the minion DHR/DHF are designed for World Cup level downhill riding and I've always found that (when not overinflated) they do extremely well.

vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain
The softer compounds do help too but there lots of folks that ride fast af on rocks and roots on those tires.

mashed
Jul 27, 2004

Minion dhf & dhr is probably still the most popular combo on the north shore. Assegai on the front is very popular also. They run great on roots and rocks.

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



I went outside of my beginner safe zone and did some “easy” to “moderate” blue trails in the white mountains and I want to report to thread my performance level is officially ranked on strava as grandpa. I think it’s going to stay that way for a bit while I lose weight and maybe as long as I want to keep my bones intact. I could definitely argue those trails (some of which were green on trailfork but marked blue irl on the trees ) were misclassified and not easy or moderate but I am also very bad.

It was mainly these really short steep dips and then steep climbs (not jumps) that I didn’t have enough momentum or power to get over. A lot of twisting track around sketchy rocks and roots I was afraid of led into a steep thing. Then a fair amount of head scratching as I wondered “how are you supposed to get up that”

Kinda glad I got a full suspension bike instead of the hard tail, it was doing a whole lot of work

Could definitely use better vision, are there prescription glasses that are particularly budget friendly and good for trail biking?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Tifosi does prescriptions glasses for under $200. I would recommend contacts though.

On trails with quick dips a lot of the time it is about knowing the trail and what is coming. When to hold speed or pedal hard, what gear to be in. This stuff just comes with practice.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit
Don’t worry about strava, ride bikes have fun.

HAIL eSATA-n
Apr 7, 2007


e.pilot posted:

Don’t worry about strava, ride bikes have fun.

Spime Wrangler
Feb 23, 2003

Because we can.

The fastest way to get faster is to have fun, ride a lot, and not worry about how fast you are.

We're all slow by strava standards, and always will be.

Eejit
Mar 6, 2007

Swiss Army Cockatoo
Cacatua multitoolii

mashed posted:

Minion dhf & dhr is probably still the most popular combo on the north shore. Assegai on the front is very popular also. They run great on roots and rocks.

My Ripmo AF came stock with Assegai back and front. So far I'm quite pleased. I ran DHF front and Ardent rear on the last bike and I feel like these are an upgrade, but when I've rented bikes set up with Minions front and rear it's felt about the same as front and back Assegai

First Priest
Feb 12, 2010

ethanol posted:

I went outside of my beginner safe zone and did some “easy” to “moderate” blue trails in the white mountains and I want to report to thread my performance level is officially ranked on strava as grandpa. I think it’s going to stay that way for a bit while I lose weight and maybe as long as I want to keep my bones intact. I could definitely argue those trails (some of which were green on trailfork but marked blue irl on the trees ) were misclassified and not easy or moderate but I am also very bad.

It was mainly these really short steep dips and then steep climbs (not jumps) that I didn’t have enough momentum or power to get over. A lot of twisting track around sketchy rocks and roots I was afraid of led into a steep thing. Then a fair amount of head scratching as I wondered “how are you supposed to get up that”

Kinda glad I got a full suspension bike instead of the hard tail, it was doing a whole lot of work

Could definitely use better vision, are there prescription glasses that are particularly budget friendly and good for trail biking?

Hey friend, we're in the exact same spot, having also gotten a full suspension bike recently. I only use Strava to see my improvement over time. On the eyesight front, having crashed with, and ruined a pair of prescription glasses because my contacts hadn't arrived yet, I definitely recommend contacts! Ride bikes!

Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005

ethanol posted:

I went outside of my beginner safe zone and did some “easy” to “moderate” blue trails in the white mountains and I want to report to thread my performance level is officially ranked on strava as grandpa. I think it’s going to stay that way for a bit while I lose weight and maybe as long as I want to keep my bones intact. I could definitely argue those trails (some of which were green on trailfork but marked blue irl on the trees ) were misclassified and not easy or moderate but I am also very bad.

It was mainly these really short steep dips and then steep climbs (not jumps) that I didn’t have enough momentum or power to get over. A lot of twisting track around sketchy rocks and roots I was afraid of led into a steep thing. Then a fair amount of head scratching as I wondered “how are you supposed to get up that”

Kinda glad I got a full suspension bike instead of the hard tail, it was doing a whole lot of work

Could definitely use better vision, are there prescription glasses that are particularly budget friendly and good for trail biking?

Firmoo, zenni optical, there's a bunch of other ones. I've used Zenni, and the GF has some from Firmoo, they're well worth the 50 bucks or so for a prescription pair with anti-glare. Expensive enough to have decent quality but cheap enough to not worry about wrecking them outdoors.

snyprmag
Oct 9, 2005

I have some Five Ten 'Districts' that I got cause they were relatively cheap 2 years. They fit well and are nice to ride in but the soles have worn out. If I pony up for free ride pros, are they more durable?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

snyprmag posted:

I have some Five Ten 'Districts' that I got cause they were relatively cheap 2 years. They fit well and are nice to ride in but the soles have worn out. If I pony up for free ride pros, are they more durable?

Five ten will tell you exactly which sole is on which shoe so you should be able to see if it's different. I have the pros and can't imagine wearing through the soles in two years.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Nyyen posted:

I was looking for something with more trail for stability and also a bit less reach so I could be a bit more upright and take some weight off my hands. I've also been looking at the Salsa Fargo. I put a comparison of everything below.

If I'm looking for a frame that is a bit more upright/relaxed, more stable/confident in the descents, and gives me more of the ride feel of my trail bike what sort of things should I be looking for? How would a Salso Fargo or Otso Fenrir compare to my Wolverine and Neuron? How might long days on the bike feel differently when compared to my more traditionally shaped Wolverine? Help, I've read too much and now I know nothing.


A rigid 68 HTA should help a lot with confidence on descents. It will definitely be noticeable. The longer wheelbase should help as well.
That said, how it handles will likely depend on your cockpit setup.
The size you picked for the Fenrir has significantly more reach than your Wolverine. That could be fine if you were planning on using much shorter stem? Did you have wide drop bars picked out? I normally ride 40 and tried 46 for a gravel bike and really hated them, but largely because I wasn't tackling steep rough descents where the extra width would be helpful instead of feeling inefficient. I've done some dicy gravel descents on 40cm (maybe 41 in the drops) and definitely was wishing for more.

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dema
Aug 13, 2006

New bike day!

Did the exact same ride yesterday on my Santa Cruz Chameleon. Partially the new bike high, but I set all sorts of downhill and uphill PRs today.





Not quite as plush as I had expected, but I was being conservative with tire pressure. Been on 27.5+ for a while. Sag and rebound were setup as per Pivot for my weight. Thinking maybe rebound is a little fast and also might be able to drop a little pressure. Def didn't use all the fork or the shock. Need to do some more riding though. And do some gnarlier trails.

All that said, it was super manageable blasting through the few really rocky and fast sections on this morning's ride. Was faster and in more control than with my Chameleon.

Climbing, technical and otherwise, was amazing. For sure I didn't feel like I needed to lock anything out on the service road climb. And on the technical climbing, way more rear wheel traction. Magical. Also no front wheel flop. Super pleased.

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