|
yeah pro is fine, it's got at least all the features of home and some more like disk encryption iirc
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 15:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 23:07 |
|
|
Cruiserweight posted:yeah, comes with two, tried both. It wouldn’t work anyway, you have an F processor which means no integrated graphics. Can you borrow or scrounge up an old known working graphics card to test? I assume you tried individual RAM sticks and switching slots already as was suggested.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 15:19
|
|
|
Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:That seems like a lot of money to pay for what's just two additional cores. Unless you have a really pressing need to do some kind of multi-core processing task ~30% faster, I don't see the point. Sanity checked, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 15:50
|
|
|
I've got my build pretty much finished up but I'm getting kinda stuck on the case - I don't want rgb and I don't want a big black obelisk either. Is there anything like the brown and beige noctua fans, but y'know, as a case? Something that doesn't look like it was inspired by the Cool S. People act like making it black is a good way to make electronics less obtrusive but it doesnt really work - you cant really hide a big black box that makes lights and noise, you might as well make it look actually attractive.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 17:19
|
|
|
DebonaireD posted:I've got my build pretty much finished up but I'm getting kinda stuck on the case - I don't want rgb and I don't want a big black obelisk either. Is there anything like the brown and beige noctua fans, but y'know, as a case? Something that doesn't look like it was inspired by the Cool S. I have long wanted a beige computer case that isn't 20 years old and isn't total poo poo. Speaking of 20-year-old cases and total poo poo, can someone tell me what the gently caress is this thing sticking out of the motherboard tray of this Chenbro SR20503 I'm trying to build a Pentium Pro retrocomputer in? It doesn't look like a safe nonconductive metal, it seems attached pretty firmly to the case, and the hole in the middle is too big to take standard motherboard screws. Look to the upper left, marked S2. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 18:09
|
|
|
Ugh, great. I boot up the PC after plugging in everything and it's going great! It boots up in loving 10 seconds compared to the 10 min of my old one! Everything is going fast! Windows is installed and free of bloatware! The fans sound nicer than the old! But: a)The PC was advertised as having 1TB SSD and 3TB HDD - except the PC doesn't recognize any HDD, only the SSD, even on the disk administrator. And the shop clearly should have noticed this since they set up the PC. I have to check if there's any HDD connected but the interior is real dark and if it has none... b)Wifi goes to 0 bars and only 10-30 Mbps despite my older PC reaching 4 bars and better speeds at the same distance. I'm gonna check first if driver updates can fix that. Edit: Nope, still poo poo. Task Manager says it has a Inter(R) Wi-Fi 6 AX201 160MHz, not sure if it's the card or the driver. But ugh, both are pretty problematic since I can't connect by Ethernet and on my old drive I had to constantly uninstall games. Just my luck... GiantRockFromSpace fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Jul 2, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 18:24
|
|
|
GiantRockFromSpace posted:b)It turns out that it came with Windows 10 Pro Trial installed. I don't think I'm really going to be using any of the extra functions it provides but at the same time having to reinstall again feels like a pain and the dude at SA-Mart selling keys (which I guess he's really trustworthy given 3 years of selling and reccomendations from here) sells Pro at the same price as Home. Does Pro have any significant cons I should know about? I got Pro specifically to be able to remotely connect to my PC, which Home doesn't support.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 18:25
|
|
|
GiantRockFromSpace posted:Ugh, great. I boot up the PC after plugging in everything and it's going great! It boots up in loving 10 seconds compared to the 10 min of my old one! Everything is going fast! Windows is installed and free of bloatware! The fans sound nicer than the old! But: On the HDD, assuming it actually does have one but it just isn't showing up, you're gonna need to check the SATA cable at the MOBO and at the drive, and make sure it has power (not sure what PSU you're using, if it's modular or not, but if it is modular hopefully they provided the unused cabling as well in case they forgot to plug the thing in). For what it's worth you can get a 5400RPM 4TB drive for like $60 on Amazon and elsewhere I'm sure. I'm not sure what motherboard that is but mine also has Intel Wi-Fi AX201 and it's been fantastic - forgive the  question but do you have the wireless antenna hooked up to it?
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 18:43
|
|
|
Agreed posted:On the HDD, assuming it actually does have one but it just isn't showing up, you're gonna need to check the SATA cable at the MOBO and at the drive, and make sure it has power (not sure what PSU you're using, if it's modular or not, but if it is modular hopefully they provided the unused cabling as well in case they forgot to plug the thing in). For what it's worth you can get a 5400RPM 4TB drive for like $60 on Amazon and elsewhere I'm sure. PSU is a 850W BITFENIX Whisper M 80 + Gold Modular, motherboard is an ASUS TUF GAMING Z690-P D4.... and I'm gonna be honest, how do I know it has an antenna hooked up? Because I can't see anything like that on the old or new PC. And the HDD yeah, gonna have to check and they provided the extra cables in case it exists but is not connected. Gonna write the store anyways, that's something they should have seen on the setup.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 18:51
|
|
|
GiantRockFromSpace posted:PSU is a 850W BITFENIX Whisper M 80 + Gold Modular, motherboard is an ASUS TUF GAMING Z690-P D4.... and I'm gonna be honest, how do I know it has an antenna hooked up? Because I can't see anything like that on the old or new PC. The antenna should be external. If you can't see it, it's not hooked up.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 19:01
|
|
|
GiantRockFromSpace posted:PSU is a 850W BITFENIX Whisper M 80 + Gold Modular, motherboard is an ASUS TUF GAMING Z690-P D4.... and I'm gonna be honest, how do I know it has an antenna hooked up? Because I can't see anything like that on the old or new PC. There should be two coax couplers on the back of the motherboard I/O that you screw an antenna array into for both bluetooth and wifi  edit: the internet tells me that the antenna should look like a black plastic folding blade, check to see if there's anything like it rattling around in a box somewhere 
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 19:03
|
|
|
I got an artist pal looking to build a PC for 3d art/animation in Blender (and also 2d art) - they are on a budget of roughly around 1000 euro, but can wait a bit longer to get more budget. This is a parts list a friend of theirs suggested, and would love to see what your folks critique is: PCPartPicker Part List: https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/FtXwqm CPU: Intel Core i5-12400F 2.5 GHz 6-Core Processor (€187.90 @ Alza) Motherboard: Gigabyte B660M DS3H DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard (€109.90 @ Alza) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory (€62.90 @ Amazon Deutschland) Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (€99.00 @ Amazon Deutschland) Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3060 12 GB VENTUS 2X Video Card (€437.99 @ Mindfactory) Case: Silverstone PS13 ATX Mid Tower Case (€60.89 @ Alternate) Power Supply: Corsair RM650x (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (€98.16 @ Amazon Deutschland) Total: €1056.74 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available My feeling is that they should get a 12700k, 32gb of ram, and 750w/850w gold power supply. They could also get a 6600/6600xt/6700xt etc. which would be way more Blender bang for your buck than the 3060. IMO they shouldn't skimp on the CPU and power supply at least to start off though. Other upgrades can be purchased later. Also their parts list doesn't have a CPU cooler - what is current goon recommended CPU coolers for workstations like this, by the way? I'm out of the loop on that.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 19:16
|
|
|
Upsidads posted:Haven't made a new pc since Witcher 3's release and I wanna make a mini itx built around a 3080 fe since my current computer case is 28 inches tall, and I'd like space back but every frickin case I see has the most nitpicky scary reviews about heat or cable management. I swear I am not a shill for this company but I r found this to be a good alternative to the NR200 with some additional flexibility and is capable for either air or liquid cooling and big honking GPUs: SAMA IM01 Black Steel Micro ATX Tower Computer Case https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16811197012?Item=N82E16811197012&Source=socialshare&cm_mmc=snc-social-_-sr-_-11-197-012-_-07022022
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 19:20
|
|
|
grack posted:The antenna should be external. If you can't see it, it's not hooked up. DoombatINC posted:There should be two coax couplers on the back of the motherboard I/O that you screw an antenna array into for both bluetooth and wifi ...well, turns out the problem was my old PC never needed an antenna  That's one issue fixed, thank you deeply guys. Edit: Oh, one detail is that I'd like to put the antenna on top of the PC but it has a magnetic cover of some sort for dust purposes (ASUS TUF Gaming GT501 ). Hopefully that's not an issue for leaving things on top!The HDD I still have to check but given I haven't found the wrapping from a HDD but I did the SSD it's prob. missing. Thankfully whether they send me the announced or they pay back what's missing I have a friend who can help me connect stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 19:43
|
|
|
Connecting storage drives is super easy. You just screw it in its place (there are usually dedicated mounting locations) and then connect some cables (one from the power supply and one from the motherboard). Most likely, the drive is in there somewhere with the cables not fully connected or something. What you will have to do is to take off the metal side panel on the right (when looking at the front) and then investigate the bottom-front of the case. That's where the HDD should be if it's in there. Make sure it has two cables attached to it, and push them in to make sure they're in firmly. Do this with the computer turned off.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 20:06
|
|
|
Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Connecting storage drives is super easy. You just screw it in its place (there are usually dedicated mounting locations) and then connect some cables (one from the power supply and one from the motherboard). I tried to check it out... but to be honest I couldn't recognise a single thing, I failed my hardware class at university. The only thing I noticed when taking a pic was that there were cables only going inside 1 of what looked like the drive places? Lile 4 squares. So it looks like they didn't put it in directly. I did take a picture. (Also if anyone has any experience with magnetic cases I'd love some pointers, cause I used to put my headset/controller on top of my PC, otherwise I'll have to tidy my desk )
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 21:11
|
|
|
yeah that's SATA data, most likely. the drive will require SATA power (a kind of retangular connector) to the power supply and SATA data to the motherboard. lets see the pic - SATA connectors are kind of fragile but otherwise are not hard for a user to service at all, the connections only go in one way. just be gentle.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 21:21
|
|
|
GiantRockFromSpace posted:I tried to check it out... but to be honest I couldn't recognise a single thing, I failed my hardware class at university. The only thing I noticed when taking a pic was that there were cables only going inside 1 of what looked like the drive places? Lile 4 squares. So it looks like they didn't put it in directly. I did take a picture. post the pic also do you have fans attached to the top of the case? if not, then don't worry about anything you put up there. it's fine.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 21:26
|
|
|
Oh, okay, I spoke with my friend and just to confirm, SSD are plugged in to the motherboard so if there's a SATA cable with the rectangular thingie with multiple cables on the lower corner near the front that means there's a HDD there, right? In that case I can try carefully checking if it loosened out during delivery.Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:post the pic I have a pair of fans on the top, but I was asking mostlybecause of the magnet on top. GiantRockFromSpace fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Jul 2, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 21:27
|
|
|
 one on top is SATA data and will connect to the mobo somehow, the one below is SATA power and will connect to the PSU. all drives will need both. they are L keyed to only go in one direction.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 21:31
|
|
|
Okay, posting the pic since I'm terrible at explanations:
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 21:34
|
|
|
can we get a close up on bottom left, i think that's your HDD
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 21:36
|
|
|
I... kind of can't: the case has to be screwed/unscrewed to take it out and I kind of have a leg injury so I'd need someone to help me and they're asleep right now Sincerely sorry about driving you in circles, I'll try tomorrow since I may have my friend with me.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 21:41
|
|
|
Okay, as I said here's a closer pic of the bottom left: I tried checking out from the other side but there's a PSU Cover that blocks the way and the person helping me got mad and won't help with the computer anymore so I need to wait for my friend anyways. Weirdly from the pic it looks like there's something connected but from the other side I couldn't see any sort of drive, but the PSU cover blocked my view so. GiantRockFromSpace fucked around with this message at 09:34 on Jul 3, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 09:31
|
|
|
i think there's your problem right there. the HDD got loose in transport? i'm not 100%, but i can see SATA data and a loose SATA power and i can't think of what else would use both of those things in your case. if i'm right there should be a HDD loose in the case where you see that data connection, it must be mounted down before you power it up. honestly the HDD coming out and getting loose is not ideal depending on shipping conditions but is honestly the kind of thing that happens all the time, so if i'm right you might be able to contact your prebuild maker and have them reissue another HDD. take your time with it, there's no rush. the first one i put together i took a whole weekend to do, just because i'd work, get stuck/frustrated, come back etc
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 09:39
|
|
|
CoolCab posted:i think there's your problem right there. the HDD got loose in transport? Thanks for the answer. Given that's not the SSD (that works) It must be the HDD and the getting loosened makes sense given I had problems with the delivery and getting the PC out of the box was an ordeal. I'm just anxious because the seller has a 30 day return policy but I've read they are a biiit tricky on that delaying the process, so I wanted to make sure everything worked ASAP. That said my only issues now are the HDD and maybe the magnets on the top (since I don't have a place to leave external drives that isn't hanging on the air), so if I fix them and the GPU works fine it's over. On any case since I have to write them to apologize for complaining about the antenna (yeah, not my brightest moment) I'll pass the picture and ask if I can have a reissue or something in case the HDD doesn't work.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 10:01
|
|
|
GiantRockFromSpace posted:(yeah, not my brightest moment) well you know, i always say stick my rear end in the boat building megathread and i'll be confusing port and starboard and sending the sailors reeling, i'm sure. we all start ignorant after all! no worries  if it is as i describe, there will be probably a 3.5 inch HDD loose where i pointed. they're roughly idk two dvd cases thick and a little smaller, you would need to mount it down - there will probably be some mounting mechanism, i think corsairs is semi toolless (ie there's a plastic rail that you're supposed to mount the HDD to then you click it in, it's like that on my case) and that could definitely have gotten jostled out if it took a big hit. HDDs getting bumped is not ideal like i say but it's usually really only catastrophic if they're powered on at the time, thus why they have to be mounted.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 10:09
|
|
|
GiantRockFromSpace posted:On any case since I have to write them to apologize for complaining about the antenna (yeah, not my brightest moment) I'll pass the picture and ask if I can have a reissue or something in case the HDD doesn't work. Send them that picture, it’s obviously not right. The SATA into the back looks unhealthily bent too.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 10:14
|
|
|
yeah it's got a full twist in it, look at that. SATA cables kind of suck rear end and they for sure don't like that, lol
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 10:16
|
|
|
Reminds me of my first computer where they didn't screw the HDD in properly so after it'd been on for about an hour any significant read/write would shake the HDD so much it'd crash the computer.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 10:18
|
|
|
Man, thankfully the main drive is the SSD and that's working perfectly for now. I'm still gonna check with my friend if we can plug it back in and get the PC to recognize it, but I'll be sending the pic at them for sure.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 10:26
|
|
|
The disk may have survived since they can handle shocks better when they're off, but I'd replace that cable, the connector looks bent. Also, test the disk when it's hooked back up in case it did get damaged from all the rattling around in there. SATA cables should be under $2 although sometimes it's tough to get that price without buying a multi-pack so individual ones might get marked up to $5 or something.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 10:32
|
|
|
Oh, on the topic of cables I think I have some extra that came with the original boxes. Not sure if they're the correct SATA ones or they're for the SSD but they're for sure drive cables.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 10:48
|
|
|
it's very probable that your SSD is not in the same form factor ie doesn't use those SATA connections at all. more modern SSDs are in the m.2 form factor, which is much much smaller and if NVME is also quite a bit quicker (it connects directly to the CPU instead of going through the SATA controller to be faster). it wouldn't be the end of the world if it wasn't, but it's what i would anticipate based on the other components.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 10:51
|
|
|
GiantRockFromSpace posted:Oh, on the topic of cables I think I have some extra that came with the original boxes. Not sure if they're the correct SATA ones or they're for the SSD but they're for sure drive cables. M.2 SSDs mount directly to the motherboard with no cable like an expansion card but flat. The motherboard usually includes a couple of cables so yes, you may have a spare if they included it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 10:55
|
|
|
CoolCab posted:it's very probable that your SSD is not in the same form factor ie doesn't use those SATA connections at all. more modern SSDs are in the m.2 form factor, which is much much smaller and if NVME is also quite a bit quicker (it connects directly to the CPU instead of going through the SATA controller to be faster). it wouldn't be the end of the world if it wasn't, but it's what i would anticipate based on the other components. Oh yeah, checking it out it's NVME, no wonder it boots up in literally 3 seconds flat then. So the cables are probably extra SATA they put in which is convenient. Man, if only the delivery company wasn't awful I'd probably be fully enjoying my beast of a PC right now (granted, every delivery company in Spain sucks one way or another)
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 10:58
|
|
|
I know this might be more suited to other threads, but I think it's directly related to a component upgrade, so I'm giving it a shot: After upgrading from a Ryzen 5 2600 to a Ryzen 7 5700X, my G502 Lightspeed won't go into sleep mode properly. Used to be I could suspend my computer and the mouse would shut down, but now it just enters the disconnected light-cycling mode and stays on. Not sure which other components might affect this, but the motherboard is the B450 Auros M I've always had. I haven't seen any other changes to peripherals. I had to disable some audio input/output sources again after the upgrade, but that happens every now and then if I gently caress with something. Joysticks, wheels and such work as before. Google hasn't been a great help, and I can't find anything that might help in the Logitech software.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 11:00
|
|
|
Black Griffon posted:I know this might be more suited to other threads, but I think it's directly related to a component upgrade, so I'm giving it a shot: After upgrading from a Ryzen 5 2600 to a Ryzen 7 5700X, my G502 Lightspeed won't go into sleep mode properly. Used to be I could suspend my computer and the mouse would shut down, but now it just enters the disconnected light-cycling mode and stays on. Not sure which other components might affect this, but the motherboard is the B450 Auros M I've always had. I haven't seen any other changes to peripherals. I had to disable some audio input/output sources again after the upgrade, but that happens every now and then if I gently caress with something. Joysticks, wheels and such work as before. Google hasn't been a great help, and I can't find anything that might help in the Logitech software. I've used the wireless G502 on an R7-1700 and R7-5800X and i5-9600K and they sleep okay. It's possible that the PC going into sleep mode is doing something with USB power but that may be a BIOS/UEFI setting. It could also be different USB ports sleeping differently due to their controllers being different. There's the UEFI to check and also the USB power settings in Windows. On mine it's the power control panel (not settings but you can get there by going to Settings-System-Power and clicking Additional power settings on the right. In the control pane, on the plan you're using you can click change plan settings and then click Change advanced power settings, then expand that to see what it's set to. Mine is just USB selective suspend is enabled. It's possible that changing the mouse in GHUB to On-board memory mode might help since I use that too (so software updates or moving PCs won't change my settings) but I wouldn't be 100% sure. I checked the manual here: https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_b450-aorus-m_1102_210615_e.pdf and I don't see any obvious stuff in there. If you upgraded the BIOS before the CPU upgrade you may have lost some earlier settings and you could attempt some random stuff like checking USB legacy mode is on or trying different sleep state settings. What's in the manual may differ from what you have now if it's been upgraded since the manual was published in 2016. There may be new options. So I'd try a different USB port first, maybe one of the USB 2 ports if you can or one that's higher up on the back (usually these are the more basic controllers while the lower ones are the speedy ones). If you were using the front panel USB ports before there's a chance you'll get some interference with it being on the back of the case but I've found the logitech lightspeed wireless is extremely good at cutting through signal issues, I have five of their mice running simultaneously on my desk simultaneously with no problems. If that doesn't help check the windows power plan, maybe turn the USB option to disable and then back to enable just in case. If that doesn't change anything see if on board mode is better. If that doesn't help check the UEFI. Make sure you're on the latest version of your BIOS especially with the new CPU.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 11:29
|
|
|
GiantRockFromSpace posted:Oh yeah, checking it out it's NVME, no wonder it boots up in literally 3 seconds flat then. So the cables are probably extra SATA they put in which is convenient. Man, if only the delivery company wasn't awful I'd probably be fully enjoying my beast of a PC right now (granted, every delivery company in Spain sucks one way or another) oh it's endemic, every shipping company sucks rear end and the more you pay for shipping honestly the more armour you are paying for your crate, lol. if you think about it what other highly precision and value electrical components get shipped via large freight other than prebuilds - you can get much gentler average treatment and better insurance if you break down your components and ship them separately, but at that point it's not a prebuild. that's what the foam was for, but i'd guess it didn't make it into the HDD cage, causing the issue.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 12:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 23:07 |
|
|
CoolCab posted:oh it's endemic, every shipping company sucks rear end and the more you pay for shipping honestly the more armour you are paying for your crate, lol. if you think about it what other highly precision and value electrical components get shipped via large freight other than prebuilds - you can get much gentler average treatment and better insurance if you break down your components and ship them separately, but at that point it's not a prebuild. that's what the foam was for, but i'd guess it didn't make it into the HDD cage, causing the issue. Yeah, the foam was keeping the GPU and protecting the CPU/Motherboard, which was probably more important tbh. It sucks that happened. ...now I realize I should also check the GPU runs correctly by installing a game. Task Manager and Nvidia Panel control do recognize it (and the CPU has no integrated graphics so I wouldn't see anything then lol) but I'd better make sure it does run without burning.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 12:49
|
|