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H110Hawk posted:15' of 14awg is going to be fine. Obviously not for permanent use but it could run in the walls for a surprise 15' ignoring just picking one room over is another 15' and you would never know. Don't run extension cord in the walls, ever. Not even for "temporary" use. Just don't do it. Don't encourage people to do it. Anything you, personally, do inside the walls needs to be up to code or at least good practice.
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Jun 26, 2022 14:59
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Don't run extension cord in the walls, ever. Not even for "temporary" use. Just don't do it. Don't encourage people to do it. Anything you, personally, do inside the walls needs to be up to code or at least good practice. Wow I worded that terribly. I meant the romex could be longer than the rounding error. Let me edit my post. Yeah never put an extension cord in the wall what idiot would suggest that.
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Jun 26, 2022 15:14
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You should never run Romex in the walls. Brought to you by Chicago.
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Jun 26, 2022 16:05
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H110Hawk posted:Wow I worded that terribly. I meant the romex could be longer than the rounding error. Let me edit my post. Whew. I was beginning to be concerned. I was gonna report your post to one of the mods. Then I looked at the mod list. Then I got MORE concerned. See, everyone? The process works! Everyone makes mistakes, and nobody burns their house down accidentally. In fact, it's been a while since I've burned a structure to the ground accidentally.  OR ON PURPOSE! 
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Jun 26, 2022 16:10
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Platystemon posted:You should never run Romex in the walls. You should never run wire. Brought to you by the Amish.
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Jun 26, 2022 16:23
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:OR ON PURPOSE! Allegedly Yeah what a brain fart. Thanks for catching that. In my head it was clear as day. Anyways people should really ask those home wiring questions in the wiring thread.
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Jun 26, 2022 16:42
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sephiRoth IRA posted:I have an extremely, extremely stupid question. I have a little robot i use for rubik cube practice. It uses a USB A to USB C cable to connect to the power adapter which plugs into the wall. The cable is 12 inches long and extremely inconvenient. Unless your little robot is an exceptionally high-draw device, any USB A-C cable will work. USB-C cable quality only becomes a problem when charging high-draw devices like tablets / laptops.
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Jun 26, 2022 19:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:Unless your little robot is an exceptionally high-draw device, any USB A-C cable will work. USB-C cable quality only becomes a problem when charging high-draw devices like tablets / laptops. It has a little symbol that says 5V = 10W. This is an extremely low stakes little thing.
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Jun 27, 2022 01:08
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sephiRoth IRA posted:It has a little symbol that says 5V = 10W. This is an extremely low stakes little thing. That means it's trying to draw 2 amps, which is like standard cell phone charging amperage i think?
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Jun 27, 2022 01:16
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Danhenge posted:That means it's trying to draw 2 amps, which is like standard cell phone charging amperage i think? I have a USB c charger for my laptop- I assume that would be too much? Also I apologize for asking here, I should really go to the other thread :/
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Jun 27, 2022 01:27
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sephiRoth IRA posted:I have a USB c charger for my laptop- I assume that would be too much? You can’t have too many amps. USB C’s power delivery spec is weird, but if it’s already working with the A→C adapter, it’s probably compatible.
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Jun 27, 2022 01:36
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Yeah just plug it in this is fine. I love plugging in my phone to 85w laptop chargers. I normally use 1 meter cables.
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Jun 27, 2022 02:06
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USB power delivery requires the charger and device to negotiate higher voltages / currents with each other, so unless someone creates a USB-C power supply that purposely violates those basic standards, it's impossible for a large power supply to cause problems for a low-draw device. Even a laptop-capable power brick will only output 5V until it negotiates a higher voltage with the device drawing power, and the device will only draw as much current as it can.
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Jun 27, 2022 02:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:USB power delivery requires the charger and device to negotiate higher voltages / currents with each other, so unless someone creates a USB-C power supply that purposely violates those basic standards, it's impossible for a large power supply to cause problems for a low-draw device. Even a laptop-capable power brick will only output 5V until it negotiates a higher voltage with the device drawing power, and the device will only draw as much current as it can. There was an issue with non-compliant usb-c cables going around, but I think that was only a problem with devices trying to draw more power than the supply could deliver, not the other way around.
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Jun 27, 2022 14:37
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IOwnCalculus posted:USB power delivery requires the charger and device to negotiate higher voltages / currents with each other, so unless someone creates a USB-C power supply that purposely violates those basic standards, https://twitter.com/setlahs/status/1542327712861134848
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Jul 1, 2022 00:47
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FISHMANPET posted:I have stumbled on Grainger, including that particular unit, and I may just end up going with that. But even that is tiny compared to what I've got. Late to the party, but that looks like it's a butchered apartment in-ceiling air handler. First Co is one of the major names with them. They're normally sold as a complete air handler/heater w/cooling coils. Here's an example. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Jul 1, 2022 |
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Jul 1, 2022 01:51
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Absolutely horrifying. Also, that "diagram" for positive / negative.
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Jul 1, 2022 04:43
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Hell yeah we support USB C. Ultra Spicy Brick Creator
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Jul 1, 2022 06:30
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Unknown Smoke Billows, Crap!
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Jul 1, 2022 12:11
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We have a grill thermometer that uses USB C, but it's very, very, very specific in that you have to use their adapter, and that their adapter can't be used for other things. Manual says 12V. Not sure if it's fixed at 12V, but I strongly suspect it is. I suspect USB C is chosen to get a certain IP rating, but as a cost saving measure they don't actually implement the rest of the stuff.
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Jul 1, 2022 12:16
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Probably correct. On the other extreme I have a “USB C” Bluetooth speaker that will only charge with an A-to-C cable in a regular old power brick.
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Jul 1, 2022 17:50
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IOwnCalculus posted:Absolutely horrifying. What is the issue? Is USB supposed to provide a standard, low level of voltage at perhaps different amps? And they're just using the USB cable as a form factor to deliver power way outside of the specification, meaning the device won't work with other USB power, other devices won't work with this faux USB, and it's dangerous?
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Jul 1, 2022 18:14
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Vim Fuego posted:What is the issue? Is USB supposed to provide a standard, low level of voltage at perhaps different amps? And they're just using the USB cable as a form factor to deliver power way outside of the specification, meaning the device won't work with other USB power, other devices won't work with this faux USB, and it's dangerous? Anything you plug that charger into is gonna let the smoke out full stop.
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Jul 1, 2022 18:18
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Vim Fuego posted:What is the issue? Is USB supposed to provide a standard, low level of voltage at perhaps different amps? And they're just using the USB cable as a form factor to deliver power way outside of the specification, meaning the device won't work with other USB power, other devices won't work with this faux USB, and it's dangerous? Yes, and: shame on an IGA posted:Anything you plug that charger into is gonna let the smoke out full stop. This. Amperage is less of an issue here - just because a power supply is capable of supplying, say, 5A (which is allowed at the upper end of USB-PD today) doesn't matter, because the device drawing that power can only pull what it can use. The voltage is the major problem because USB is supposed to be 5V until negotiated otherwise, specifically because so many devices exist that have no capability to accept or even safely handle voltages above that applied to their USB port. A correct implementation of USB-PD starts at 5V, and then the charger and device communicate with each other and raise the voltage if there's a higher voltage available that both devices can accommodate. This thing just shits 20V out right away and any device that wasn't built to expect or handle that appropriately will be damaged, potentially dangerously.
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Jul 1, 2022 19:13
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It's using a connector physically compatible with usb-c for a non-usb purpose. Notice how the trademarked word "usb" and logo don't ever appear. There are no connector police to force you to use connectors in standard ways, just trademarks conditional on passing tests. The trademarked ETL logo on it is indicating it passed that certifying bodies tests, but they don't have a rule forbidding that usage
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Jul 2, 2022 03:09
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There might not be any connector police, but if I were selling the supply end of that setup I'd be terrified about liability for damages. It's maybe not criminally negligent like selling poison in soda bottles or using a NEMA-15 plug to connect EKG pads, but it feels irresponsible in the same sort of way.
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Jul 2, 2022 05:08
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I've got a room in my house that has every bottom plug in every outlet controlled by the same switch by the door. I'd like to make two, possibly more, of those outlets not be controlled by the switch. Is this as easy as just swapping out the outlets themselves and maybe unhooking a wire or two there, or is it a bit more complicated than that? My POs definitely did not know how to do anything properly either, so I'm expecting it to somehow be controlled by a switch in my garage, too, or something dumb like that  I am an extreme newbie when it comes to anything electrical/wiring, so probably assume I don't even know basic terminology 
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Jul 2, 2022 16:11
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Johnny Truant posted:I've got a room in my house that has every bottom plug in every outlet controlled by the same switch by the door. I'd like to make two, possibly more, of those outlets not be controlled by the switch. Is this as easy as just swapping out the outlets themselves and maybe unhooking a wire or two there, or is it a bit more complicated than that? My POs definitely did not know how to do anything properly either, so I'm expecting it to somehow be controlled by a switch in my garage, too, or something dumb like that Yes, it's that easy. Turn off the breaker for that circuit. Pull each outlet out of the wall. Connect the top wires to the new outlet one at a time. Put a wire nut on the bottom wire(s). Put unused wires in wall. Put outlet in wall. Turn on breaker. Example 1: Say you pull out an outlet and it's got four wires on it, two on top, two on bottom. You'd connect the two on top to your new outlet, and put one wire nut each on the bottom wires. Example 2: You pull out an outlet and it's got SIX wires on it: one top left, two top right, one bottom left, one bottom right. Your new outlet will have one wire top left, two top right. Then there's a wire nut on the lone bottom left, and the two on the bottom right are connected with a wire nut. babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Jul 2, 2022 |
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Jul 2, 2022 16:55
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Yes, it's that easy. Put a note on masking tape or the back of the switch plate cover that it was an outlet switch now unused.
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Jul 2, 2022 16:58
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Most excellent, thanks for the advice! Especially labeling for possible future rewiring. After my pops and I replaced outlets and swiss and a few outside lights I realized that the spicy electrons are definitely something I can handle on my own, just with a bit of guidance. 
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Jul 2, 2022 18:42
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Alrighty, I am looking for any hints here, this kind of blends into electrocuting myself. I got a 4ish year old Samsung electric dryer. When I got said dryer, I replaced the breaker for the outlet. Previous was a 40a, spec for this calls for 30a. A few days ago said dryer has started tripping the breaker when drying a load. Running it empty seems to be fine, same with air fluff with a drum full of clothing. I am guessing it is overheating, as it will run for 5-10 minutes, then trip the breaker. If I fire it right back up, it will trip in like 2 minutes. Today I did a full teardown on the unit, cleaned all the inside (minimal lint actually), verified no blockage of vent. Tested the 2x thermal cut off thermostats for continuity with my multimeter (passed), tested the high-limit thermostat for continuity (passed) and tested the resistance of the thermistor (results show it is good). The heating unit/coil also showed continuity. I figured it would since it is heating up. Maybe it's shorting out? It's probably this. Re-assembled, fired it up, still tripping breaker. Tested voltage at the outlet, 118v on one let, 119v on the other, 237 together. Tested voltage at the back of the dryer where the cord is installed, identical results. Left the back panel off and kept my multimeter on while it was running (until it tripped), voltage hovered around 234 the entire time until the breaker popped. Is it possible this new-ish 30a breaker just poo poo the bed? It is a Square QO 30a. Never had any issues until now. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Square-D-QO-30-Amp-2-Pole-Standard-Trip-Circuit-Breaker/3135067 Any ideas on what to dig into next? Other than just quitting and buying a new dryer ideally. Edit: added more troubleshooting Moey fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Jul 3, 2022 |
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Jul 2, 2022 23:41
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Moey posted:Alrighty, I am looking for any hints here, this kind of blends into electrocuting myself. Did you get a chance to look at any circuitboards? Blown capacitor maybe? Something failed open that should be closed? Maybe something around the exhaust where you might see condensation?
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Jul 3, 2022 00:11
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VelociBacon posted:Did you get a chance to look at any circuitboards? Blown capacitor maybe? Something failed open that should be closed? Maybe something around the exhaust where you might see condensation? I didn't deeply look at the control board when I ripped off the front panel, but it was pristine looking. No fried traces or bulging caps. That would have stood out. I had it running with the back open (no hose, venting straight into my virgin lungs), exhaust was blowing clean and warm, nothing out of the ordinary. I feel like it's gotta be the heating element doing something dumb (these things are just glorified "air fryers"). The motor that spins the tub doesn't sound strained. Belt/tensioner/pulleys all looked good/clean. Edit: I'm gonna pop the breaker panel cover off and double check the connections on that breaker I installed years back. Since I just pretend to know what I am doing, maybe one of the wires is cooking itself or something. Wires looked fine going to breaker. Fired up dryer with panel open, tiny sparks every 5 seconds from one of the legs. Time to reconnect this, and hopefully not get zapped. Edit 2: All good. I live in a super old shoebox and have a very old panel. Whenever someone before me added in this dryer outlet, they stubbed the box for the receptacle right to the panel, there is zero extra length in the wire they pulled (and it is missing strands). I was able to re-connect both legs as secure as possible. No spark, dryer still running! I guess replacing that will be an additional project to the list. Thanks for shooting the poo poo with me VelociBacon! Talking through poo poo helps you see what you are missin! Comedy picture of said breaker and wire with zero slack. Probably a fire hazard. 
Moey fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Jul 3, 2022 |
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Jul 3, 2022 00:19
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This is a simple question that I'm sure has been answered to death, but: I'm replacing the ceiling light fixture and idiot me didn't take a picture before removing the old fixture. The house was built in the 40s but pretty massively renovated in 2020, so we're never quite sure if we have something up to current code or something older that was allowed to stay. I got a voltmeter and did some testing and I'm pretty sure we're dealing with a switch loop: from the ceiling, white is hot and black is unused (unstripped and also taped off). I assume the ceiling hot goes to hot on the fixture, but what do I do with the neutral on the fixture? I tried with the neutral disconnected (only hot to hot and ground to ground), and the light doesn't turn on but the screw shell is hot.
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Jul 3, 2022 01:12
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Moey posted:I didn't deeply look at the control board when I ripped off the front panel, but it was pristine looking. No fried traces or bulging caps. That would have stood out. Great work! I'll be effortposting in here in the next little while about fixing the wiring so that two rooms on the same baseboard heater circuit are in parallel and not series so feel free to repay that minor favour at that time 
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Jul 3, 2022 01:14
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VelociBacon posted:Great work! I'll be effortposting in here in the next little while about fixing the wiring so that two rooms on the same baseboard heater circuit are in parallel and not series so feel free to repay that minor favour at that time Ugh, electric baseboard sucks. My townhouse has a 1960s boiler for hot water baseboard (not much better than electric), so I get to keep that thing alive. Only singed my eyebrows once so far!
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Jul 3, 2022 01:25
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zynga dot com posted:This is a simple question that I'm sure has been answered to death, but: Is it a 3 way switch (multiple switches controlling one light)? The colors get funky with that for hot/neutral/travelers. You for sure need a (switched) hot and a neutral going to your fixture to complete the circuit. Picture of the fixture/junction box? Also whatever switches controlling said fixture. Moey fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Jul 3, 2022 |
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Jul 3, 2022 01:30
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Moey posted:Is it a 3 way switch (multiple switches controlling one light)? The colors get funky with that for hot/neutral/travelers. Oh right - it is a 3-way switch. The ceiling portion is in the oldest part of the house and mostly covered up by plaster unfortunately, and I'm not sure where the junction box is, but here's what I have. I said that ceiling neutral was unstripped and taped off, which is true, but I did strip it to try to connect it per directions (it's capped now for safety). I can try to get a better picture if this doesn't work - I had to blow out the color balance since the lights I need are currently off at the breaker.
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Jul 3, 2022 01:56
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You sure that "ceiling black" was for sure not in play with the old fixture? No additional wires tucked up there?
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Jul 3, 2022 02:25
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Moey posted:You sure that "ceiling black" was for sure not in play with the old fixture? Positive. It was taped off and unstripped. I can check for additional wires but if there are any, they weren't connected to the old fixture.
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Jul 3, 2022 02:33
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