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My dad's got an '08 grand cherokee. The dealership wants to charge him almost $1400 for brake pads and rotors all around. No calipers. I did that on my VW Jetta myself for under $200 with oem bosch parts (no labor cost of course). I'm assuming he's getting some hilariously high pricing from this dealership but I just wanted to crowd source how upset I should be. For instance, I believe that his 6000 lb jeep will need bigger rotors and pads than my 3000 lb jetta but looking on rockauto and amazon it seems like the parts for the fronts should be $150 or so for a kit. Also, they want $1100 for front tie rod inner and outer because they're rusty and they weren't able to do an alignment because of it. Also $1200 for front struts because they're rusty. Looking online these don't seem like expensive parts so even replacing with labor seems like it should be a fraction of that. Do these prices seem way out of line?
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Jun 17, 2022 20:17
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I haven't worked on one that new but my guess is a combination of dealer part pricing vs aftermarket on rockauto and dealer labor rate. It seems pretty ridiculous to me. Are the rotors captured by the caliper brackets? Are the bolts rusty enough that this will be an issue? If not I would do the brakes myself personally. Probably the rest too, other than the alignment.
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Jun 18, 2022 02:02
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kastein posted:I haven't worked on one that new but my guess is a combination of dealer part pricing vs aftermarket on rockauto and dealer labor rate. It seems pretty ridiculous to me. It does look like the caliper bracket comes off to get the rotor off and I'm sure it'll be rusty, so he might just have one of the two local shops that's not absurdly overpriced handle it if they will do the job. I might do it if I can finish enough of my own projects to have the time, but I mostly have little jacks and jack stands for working on my sedan so he'd have to buy some harbor freight stuff to accommodate the work. His brake pads aren't too bad according to the dealership, they just said the rotors were rusty and to replace them all. $1400ish for that seems crazy high, though. I've looked up most of the stuff they had on their recommendations and while it will all be more of a pain in the rear end because it's rusty, it still seems like this dealership is looking to charge double or triple what it should cost. Another thing they recommended was $65 for windshield wipers is a red flag in my opinion. He took it there to get one TPMS sensor replaced which seems like something a local shop might not have the programming cable to do, but I think everything else he'll get done elsewhere if they even deem it necessary.
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Jun 18, 2022 03:14
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I usually ballpark that a dealership will charge about double what good parts cost (which might be quadruple what cheap parts cost) and then charge that much again for labor, and even then that seems a bit high. Especially since that's probably an hour of actual labor if you work in a dealership and you have a lift and experience with the job. FYI, Discount Tire has had no trouble reprogramming TPMS sensors on my 07 Grand Cherokee or my wife's 09 Patriot, even though the service manual implied the need for a dealership tool to reprogram my spare tire.
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Jun 18, 2022 04:03
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Is this too far gone for the rough country or flop shop cut and fold caps? I totaled my usual car 6 months ago and now I need to get this piece of poo poo on the road and I just put new tires and an entire new exhaust on it (thanks catalytic converters thieves). As soon as I left the tire shop I noticed something fucky was going on with the drivers side rear bumper cap and when I felt under there a fist of rust fell out then I uncovered this fuckshow. 99 xj btw.  
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Jun 23, 2022 15:25
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Hooray, just got a double recall notice. No parts available right now. Apparently the high pressure fuel pump can grenade itself and the abs module freaks out on occasion. I've only had a couple of minor issues with my jeep in 40k miles, but I think I'm already up to 6 recalls.
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Jul 3, 2022 01:05
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Trying to scare everyone?blah posted:Per the company's defect report, 2014-2020 Jeep Grand Cherokees and 2014-2019 Ram 1500s shipped with a pump that can fail prematurely. While little detail about the issue was provided, it appears as though Stellantis expects the failures to come on gradually blah posted:The population of vehicles is split between 58,970 units of the Durango and 211,934 units of the Grand Cherokee. Maybe they'll give you a nice manual so you can avoid that silliness.  Also because wth not... Jeep comedy channel posted:The 2.7-liter EcoBoost engine in the Ford Bronco has become a source of investigation after 32 consumers complained of their engines completely failing in normal, everyday driving conditions. The investigation was opened by NHTSA on May 27.
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Jul 3, 2022 23:56
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Yeah, I'm not as worried about the second one as I am about the hpfp. I start it with brake depressed out of muscle memory. Apparently the hpfp are from Bosch who misdesigned them to fail if they're starved of fuel and send metal into the fuel system.
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Jul 4, 2022 03:08
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Evil SpongeBob posted:Yeah, I'm not as worried about the second one as I am about the hpfp. I start it with brake depressed out of muscle memory. Apparently the hpfp are from Bosch who misdesigned them to fail if they're starved of fuel and send metal into the fuel system. Sounds like the CP4 diesel pump. Not just starved of fuel, they can grenade at anytime, and it nukes the whole fuel system. The permanent fix? CP3 swap.
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Jul 4, 2022 03:33
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The driver side backseat of my 2008 Jeep Liberty wouldn't fold down yesterday, so I forced it and it seemed to come unstuck and work fine but now it won't lock back into place. It looked like there might have been some grit in the mechanism. Does anyone know what happened and how to fix it?
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Jul 28, 2022 22:17
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When the release isn't pulled, it makes a clicking sounds like some kind of ratcheting is happening when I move it around in the locked positions. After just moving it back and forth a bunch if it locked again. Very weird.
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Jul 29, 2022 00:32
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My JK popped a P0520 code this morning. Has anyone done the oil pressure sensor/switch job on a 3.6 Pentastar? Looks annoying and fiddly as you have to remove both intake manifolds, but not too bad. Anything I should replace while I'm in there other than manifold gaskets etc?
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Aug 10, 2022 16:37
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My XJ's power steering hose started leaking, so I'm trying to replace that, except the bottom flare nut is so rusted over 23 years of service that it absolutely refuses to budge, even after an overnight soak in PB Blaster. So of course another easy fix turns into a multi-day affair thanks to a single rusty thing. I've gone so far as to bend and break off the old hose, so now all that's left is just the bottom flare nut with a little stub of the old hose on it. Any suggestions? Is it safe to heat up the nut to try to shock the rust off? I wiped it clean and sprayed more PB in the hopes it'll eventually break through the rust, but I really need to get this dumb thing out. e: I should mention that I am using a correctly sized flare nut wrench, so I can't get a better grip on this thing. DizzyBum fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Aug 11, 2022 |
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Aug 11, 2022 15:23
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This is the end going into the steering box, right? If you've already cut the hose off to a stub, can you get a six-point socket or box wrench on it? Alternatively, do you have a locking adjustable wrench? I've had that succeed on line nuts where the appropriate wrench was trying to round it off. I also wouldn't hesitate to use a bit of heat on it, just don't go crazy.
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Aug 11, 2022 15:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:This is the end going into the steering box, right? So I don't have a cutting tool, I had to just bend the hose until it snapped off, and sadly the stub is too large for me to fit a socket over it. No locking wrenches either; the adjustable wrenches I have dont get a good grip. The flare nut wrench I have grips it really well, it just won't budge. I'll try heat on the outer casing later when I have time to take another attempt at it.
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Aug 11, 2022 15:58
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Finally got it off! My wife's butane torch did the trick. It took a few more attempts but it finally gave way. I'm gonna wait a few hours so I don't get sunburned finishing the job, plus I can take some time to clean all the crud off the metal parts I uncovered.
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Aug 11, 2022 19:25
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Jeep as running like crap at idle the last few times i took it out. Sniper EFI's AFR values were all over the map and it had trouble maintaining commanded AFR. therefore I decided to literally blow smoke up the jeep's rear end. Result: Cracked exhaust manifold. WIll swap it this weekend.
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Aug 11, 2022 19:35
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Dacheat posted:Jeep as running like crap at idle the last few times i took it out. Hmm. I’ve had a cracked manifold for 10 years in my XJ and it idles rock solid.
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Aug 11, 2022 19:44
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rally posted:Hmm. I’ve had a cracked manifold for 10 years in my XJ and it idles rock solid. Different ECU setup. this is a 258 (4.2) with a Sniper EFI on it. They REALLY don't like exhaust leaks upstream of the o2 sensor.
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Aug 11, 2022 19:56
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New ranch buggy acquired. Runs, drives and 4wd works but it needs a lot of work.
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Aug 12, 2022 16:06
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Well my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo died in the left turn lane of a busy intersection. It displayed some "electronic breaking error", wouldn't shift out of park, and would just try to turn over but wouldn't start. I had it towed to the dealership and well: LMAO. It's a list of repairs that aren't strictly necessary. But they did tell me I need a new fuel pump to the tune of $2500 which may be the actual problem. How bad is this? Should I tow this thing out of there to a 3rd party garage because what the gently caress. That's like the trade on value of the car. Here is the list! Fuel pump: $2500 Blower motor: $1000 Cross over coolant pump cover leaking: $400 Water pump "has play": $900 thermostat $350 (lol) Idler pulley making a noise: $200 Timing cover leak: $1500 Seems like maybe the fuel pump is the only strictly necessary one.
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Aug 19, 2022 03:29
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What engine is it? That sounds excessive but I have no comparison.
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Aug 19, 2022 08:00
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Only the timing and fuel pump seem related to the issues getting it started, but nothing on that list seems related to an error with the EPB system, which should only require a working battery. Seems like the options are to go elsewhere (may be best given the vehicle age) or negotiate with them regarding which repairs will be skipped. Certainly you are allowed to say No to individual repairs. These are also totals; a non-dealer mechanic might initially seem less expensive when they quote you "$450 fuel pump, sealant etc", but then the labor for "dropping the fuel tank, evacuating the tank, hazardous material removal handling, etc" ends up costing $3000. To me the prices seem high. Only the coolant system prices look reasonable, and the blower is probably not cheap (parts), but at $100/hr they're saying 20hrs of labor for a fuel pump? Even with costs from supply delays, how an a fuel pump be more than a few hundred? Maybe check parts prices online.
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Aug 20, 2022 16:34
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Is it an HPFP for a DI engine? Those can be pricey. Or you have to tear the car apart to get at the thing (likely). Or they’re chiseling you (also likely).
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Aug 27, 2022 02:39
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I bought a AEV 3rd brake light + bracket. Went to install it today, and the connector don't match my factory harness: Old brake light side:  Harness side:  New light connector:  Can anyone ID either of those types of connectors? Looks like I need to splice a male of the old type onto the new light, or a male of the new type onto the existing harness. I suppose I'd rather do the former, but I guess it doesn't really matter. Alternatively, anything preventing me from cutting off both ends and crimping on something simpler? I'm not the brightest guy when it comes to electrical stuff, but the connector is only there for convenience/a fancy splice right? The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Aug 27, 2022 |
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Aug 27, 2022 18:35
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Alternatively, anything preventing me from cutting off both ends and crimping on something simpler? I'm not the brightest guy when it comes to electrical stuff, but the connector is only there for convenience/a fancy splice right? It's this, and I would go this route myself because I'm cheap like that and don't want to stop a project halfway to go buy some part I don't have if I don't need to. I keep a kit of DT connectors on hand so I can build a connector like that if I need to, but for just two pins there's absolutely no reason you can't handle that with insulated male/female spades. I would confirm which of the wires on the Jeep is hot and use a female insulated spade there (and male on the matching wire on the light), and then the other way around for the other wire.
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Aug 27, 2022 23:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's this, and I would go this route myself because I'm cheap like that and don't want to stop a project halfway to go buy some part I don't have if I don't need to. Ok yeah, glad I wasn't off-track with thinking a two-pin would be fine for spade connectors. Great tip with making the hot end female (  ), that's the kind of detail I post here for. Will bust out the voltmeter when I get around to it.
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Aug 28, 2022 05:37
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Doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me; maybe a bad weekend. If one has Jeep------AA that plugs into aa--brake, Then one buys (??)----BB that plugs into bb--new brake assembly, Why not just cut off AA, maybe cut at the middle of the new wiring harness (??--BB), and then connect the wires together so you end up with Jeep----BB and bb-brake? And what is the new connector BB actually connected to? The Royal Nonesuch posted:New light connector: You can use crimp type wire splices, or the screw type. (Or twist and electrical tape if you are really bold, but I wouldn't do that in this case  ).https://youtu.be/beI0L23S5hY But definitely test before you put in the final crimps since you have to redo things if you get them backwards. 
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Aug 28, 2022 06:51
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I would cut one plug off and splice the other on using heatshrink butt splices and never look back.
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Aug 28, 2022 08:56
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:My JK popped a P0520 code this morning. Has anyone done the oil pressure sensor/switch job on a 3.6 Pentastar? Looks annoying and fiddly as you have to remove both intake manifolds, but not too bad. Anything I should replace while I'm in there other than manifold gaskets etc? Followup for future searchers: yes, it's annoying and fiddly but a friend and I knocked it out (and replaced spark plugs) in 4.5 hours at a relaxed pace. Oil pressure switch (Mopar 5149062AB) $40 / ebay Coolant temp sensor (Mopar 5149077AB) $40 / ebay Coolant hose to housing (Mopar 68092947AD) $18 / amazon Aftermarket oil filter housing (Dorman 926-876) $140 / amazon The plastic oil filter housing the sensors mount in are known to crack and leak at higher mileage, so I replaced the entire thing with the Dorman cast aluminum aftermarket kit - $140, and it comes with all of the gaskets you need to reassemble the manifolds. All you have to do is swap over the oil cooler. Very nice kit for the money, highly recommended if you're doing this job. You'll need a wobble joint for your socket/extensions, shop vac, a good (metal, not plastic) trim clip/christmas tree clip plier, some really long needlenose or long-reach pliers, and a E8 external Torx bit. Also, a gallon of coolant. The two most annoying parts of the job were loosening the bottom of the bracket that the upper manifold attaches to, and the getting the passenger-side spark plug coils/boots out. Also, watch out for injector O-rings when you pop out the fuel rails. The valley of the shadow of death. Punk-rear end sensor location circled:  Filter housing out (here's where you use the shop-vac to suck up all the coolant that will dump into the valley):  Old housing, oil cooler removed:  Aluminum Dorman replacement:  As always, assembly was reverse of disassembly. Honestly other than the driver-side sparks as previously mentioned, getting it all back together wasn't a big deal - clean the gasket mating surfaces, stress about dropping things into the top end, wrangle the upper+lower manifolds back in etc. Once the upper manifold is on, you're home free and can begin refreshments.  We took our time, double-checked every plug/hose we reconnected and it fired right up. Bled the coolant system, and so far so good on the CEL after a ten days and a couple hundred miles.
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Sep 29, 2022 00:42
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PBCrunch posted:I've got a high-miles 1999 XJ Cherokee. It loses fuel pressure after it sits for a while. If I turn the key to the ON position a couple of times before I try to actually start the engine it will always start on the first try. drat, think I found my problem. It only happens at work when it's been sitting at least 8 hours in the sun. And even then it's only happened twice in a 30 day period.
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Oct 8, 2022 23:33
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I forget what my answer was when that came up last time but you can do a few things. Add a second check valve in series as close to the pump as possible, ignore it and just cycle the key a few times before cranking (this is what I did), hack a hole in the floor to put a new pump assembly in, or drop the tank. Mine was an irredeemable pile of poo poo so I just cycled the key every start till I blew a hole in the bottom of the tank 4 wheeling and swapped my entire junkyard spare tank and sender in.
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Oct 12, 2022 06:00
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Gah. Fuel gauge in the XJ started doing funny things like getting fuller as the tank emptied. No problem, probably the float sensor on the fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump and … didn’t fix it. Now to see what else it could be. ‘98 XJ
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Oct 21, 2022 04:13
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That happened to me on my Mojave trip. Turns out I was denting the gas tank faster than I was consuming fuel, ha ha. Eventually the tank was so hosed it pinned the float, so the gauge was stuck on full. I've never needed to buy gas since.
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Oct 21, 2022 04:26
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My husband went out and bought a jeep. I'm somehow involved. So I guess it's Jeep #2 and #61. Help it burns when I pee. It's a 2016 Hard Rock Rubicon with a 6 speed. 46k-miles.  
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Nov 6, 2022 02:32
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95 XJ 4.0. RHD. Green. It's been a poo poo year. I only just got to getting the radiator and installing it. Started all this months ago and didn't have the resources to finish the job. Got a 3 core aluminium rad from eBay. 1 wasn't enough. 2 has the trans cooler on the wrong side and 4 doesn't fit with the Grand Cherokee fan clutch. So... 3. Had to do some fan shroud butchery so it'd fit because the tabs are in the wrong place at the bottom. Anyway all installed. Okay mostly installed. Enough for testing. It drags the temperature back down nice and quick. No thermal runaway. Awesome. But now the A/C doesn't work. No idea why. Compressor is running. Plenty of air coming through into the cabin. Warm air coming out the vents. Like above ambient. I can see the cable and lever for the blend door moving fine when I pull the lever. Also the air is burning hot when I swing it to hot. The metal block thing near the firewall that the A/C lines go gets slightly cool to the touch. I only know the very basic theory of how aircon works. I've got no idea what's happening here though. Shouldn't the compressor not be operating if it degassed or something?
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Nov 7, 2022 22:03
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Yeah, if the pressure in the system is too low there should be a low pressure switch that stops the compressor from engaging (or will keep killing it, resulting in short-cycling). You might want to take a read through Motronic's thread for some ideas but if you're getting warmer-than-ambient air and the compressor is running non-stop, I think you're probably looking at a problem with the blend doors not fully moving over to cold.
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Nov 7, 2022 23:14
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This is going to sound condescending, but you're sure the compressor is running? The bolts on the face of the pulley are spinning around? I've made that mistake before and your problem is weird. Does the clutch disengage and the bolts stop spinning around when you turn the AC off? Also, check that the blend door lever is moving fully to cold. I've had my cable bend/kink and it couldn't push all the way anymore. Can't remember if the cable pushes to cold or hot.
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Nov 8, 2022 00:08
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I'm not going to quote. I know you can all read. I'm absolutely sure the compressor was running. I even confirmed it for myself by turning the A/C on and off and looking at the compressor to verify. Anyway... I had an idea. I found the remnants of a crappy A/C topup kit I managed to get from the U.S. years ago. Probably has propane or something in it. IDGAF. Anyway, engine off / compressor off it was at about 65psi low side. Running it was 0psi. So I assume it was pulling a vacuum. Through the little drier window I could see an occasional wisp of something. I put the cans of refrigerant in the system. That got it up to about 20PSI. The second can leaked. It was enough for me to confirm that the system is capable of blowing cold. Plus the refrigerant has UV dye, which is what interested me the most. I know I've got a UV thing around somewhere. When I find it I can go leak hunting. That first time when I put the gas in though. The line at the firewall got a layer of ice a few mm thick in a couple of minutes and water was trickling from the evaporator drain. I don't think I ever saw it like that before. Anyway now it has a new thermostat, an idler pulley (bad bearing), a "racing" radiator ie cheap Al one with a CNC machined radiator cap included OMG!!! It just looks like a lovely cap with a plastic cover that gets in the way of that top radiator mount / latch holder thing to me. Holy hell I had to butcher the fan shrouds to get them to fit. But it's all in. Now all that's left is the worst thing of all. The hideous groan from the rear end. I don't know if it's a bearing or the godforsaken Dana LSD. e: Still not sure why I was feeling warm air though. Blend door seems to be moving full travel.
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Nov 8, 2022 05:24
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They'll blow slightly warm even when on full cold, at least stationary and at low speeds. Sounds like you've got a handle on the AC though. My guess on the groan is bearings or ujoints but I'd have to hear it. What exact sound and what conditions does it show up under? Speed dependent tone or only when cornering?
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Nov 8, 2022 08:51
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