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Deteriorata posted:There's been a bunch of videos testing this, and the general conclusion seems to be that masking tape doesn't actually help any. YMMV. Makes a covid mask joke. I was gonna say too that it seems like it would gunk up the blade and housing?
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Jul 4, 2022 16:41
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masking tape barely sticks to the stuff you want it to, it's not going to be meaningfully gunkier than the resin and poo poo already in the wood
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Jul 4, 2022 16:57
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:masking tape barely sticks to the stuff you want it to, it's not going to be meaningfully gunkier than the resin and poo poo already in the wood You've measured this with a goon approved gunkometer I presume. Bits of paper clots was what I was getting at. But on a more serious masking tape note, there's definitely a shelf life and you don't want something that's sat in a store for 3 years if you're going to paint anything.
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Jul 4, 2022 17:41
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Meow Meow Meow posted:
Update, completed the bedside table. It's for my five year old daughter so I did a few fun things while trying to keep the overall piece not too childish. I inlaid a marquetry frog in the surface (hopefully it helps her to keep the top clear of clutter), I shaped the pull like a gem and finally I lined the drawer bottom in suede. The primary wood is hard maple, the knob and mortise wedges are cherry and the drawer sides are mahogany. I also kept a lip for the top as small toys and treasures have a way of getting knocked easily away. The finish is Osmo oil which has become my go to for furniture. It doesn't have the depth of a film finish, but the ease of application and repairability has me sold.      Here it is artfully filled by me, Im sure in use it won't be as tidy. 
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Jul 4, 2022 19:27
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I have a 16" craftsman scroll saw that, based on the model, is likely to be a couple of years older than I am. I've often run into stuff on projects where it seems like it would be useful but since I'd no experience using it I'd always find another solution instead of risking loving up whatever part I was working on. I wanted to get some hours in on it so I picked a project to suit. I had a bit of a false start after I learned that no one uses pin end blades anymore but I got a conversion kit that worked great and it was pretty smooth from there. It took some experimentation to get a feel and then to figure out how to make sharp corners without loving things up I got the hang of it pretty quick. Admittedly I recut a bunch of the earliest bits at the end. Here it is in my dingy shop:  And sitting against the wall in my office since I don't have the hardware to hang it yet (and I haven't decided if I'm going to hang it this way or flipped 180):  Most of the 14 or 15 different kinds of wood are finished with various flavors of Watco but I ran into issues with it leaving a film on some of the denser exotics I hadn't messed with before (I picked up a few turning blanks at Woodcraft) so some of it is just water based poly. Also spent a lot of time messing around with blue dyes and poo poo trying to get something I was happy with for the water (short of paying out the rear end for that much blue mahoe) but I ended up just going with some colorful poplar. Reasonably happy with how it turned out. Meow Meow Meow posted:Update, completed the bedside table. I love the frog! Deteriorata posted:There's been a bunch of videos testing this, and the general conclusion seems to be that masking tape doesn't actually help any. YMMV. Where it works the results are extremely obvious before/after. I've seen a few people test it on a table saw but I've mostly found it useful on chop saws and poo poo. Wallet fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Jul 4, 2022 |
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Jul 4, 2022 23:16
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Wallet posted:I have a 16" craftsman scroll saw that, based on the model, is likely to be a couple of years older than I am. I've often run into stuff on projects where it seems like it would be useful but since I'd no experience using it I'd always find another solution instead of risking loving up whatever part I was working on. I wanted to get some hours in on it so I picked a project to suit.
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Jul 5, 2022 12:44
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:This is very cool. Is it based off a map of a real place, or just a place you made up? It's loosely based on bits and pieces of some old maps but it's not anywhere in particular.
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Jul 5, 2022 12:51
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Wallet posted:I have a 16" craftsman scroll saw that, based on the model, is likely to be a couple of years older than I am. I've often run into stuff on projects where it seems like it would be useful but since I'd no experience using it I'd always find another solution instead of risking loving up whatever part I was working on. I wanted to get some hours in on it so I picked a project to suit. Dude, if you could mass produce the Shire and Middle Earth like that, you'd deplete the Ent kingdom. What I'm saying is it's great.
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Jul 5, 2022 15:10
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Does anyone know of a good video guide on using a dado blade on a table saw? Everything seems self-evident but my results seem not up to par and it makes me wonder what I'm missing. Obviously practice makes perfect, but I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be improving. I made this stool this past weekend, and it came out fine, but none of my laps are as smooth as in the video. I've got parts where the lap is a little too long or two short, despite everything being ripped at the same time and the dado jig being the same, some of the cross pieces fit tighter or looser than others, my finger at the top isn't the right length. The dado cuts themselves don't seem as smooth as I would think. It's all "good enough" for purpose but I'm hoping to improve those skills specifically, and it feels like I'm missing something, but I just don't know what. E: Lol I asked this same question 6 months ago, and A Wizard of Goatse linked a video from Stumpy Nubs that I apparently never watched, so I guess that's step 1. FISHMANPET fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Jul 5, 2022 |
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Jul 5, 2022 20:00
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FISHMANPET posted:Does anyone know of a good video guide on using a dado blade on a table saw? Everything seems self-evident but my results seem not up to par and it makes me wonder what I'm missing. Obviously practice makes perfect, but I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be improving. Keeping the workpiece flat against the table is pretty important to get consistent depth, especially if you're using home center lumber which isn't gonna be perfectly flat. I've specifically had problems with the throat plate flexing a bit through the cut, so if I'm putting uneven pressure on the workpiece while it goes through the blade, it can end up being both two deep in some areas (where I'm pressing it down more and the throat plate flexed) and not deep enough in different areas (where I wasn't pressing it down and it was off the table slightly)
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Jul 5, 2022 20:12
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more falafel please posted:Keeping the workpiece flat against the table is pretty important to get consistent depth, especially if you're using home center lumber which isn't gonna be perfectly flat. I've specifically had problems with the throat plate flexing a bit through the cut, so if I'm putting uneven pressure on the workpiece while it goes through the blade, it can end up being both two deep in some areas (where I'm pressing it down more and the throat plate flexed) and not deep enough in different areas (where I wasn't pressing it down and it was off the table slightly) Yeah, same, throat plate flex is a problem I've had too. Try and get consistent pressure on the piece over the cut. Use paddles
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Jul 5, 2022 21:19
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I made an box again. Getting close to dialing everything in, the bottom piece was a bit too snug going in and pushed the front right side apart a bit.
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Jul 6, 2022 08:12
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Behold my lovely garage bag holder that I cut completely with a jig saw. 
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Jul 6, 2022 12:24
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ddiddles posted:I made an box again. Getting close to dialing everything in, the bottom piece was a bit too snug going in and pushed the front right side apart a bit. What are you using for the engraving?
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Jul 6, 2022 15:10
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El Spamo posted:What are you using for the engraving? Dark comedy.
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Jul 6, 2022 15:54
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Calidus posted:Behold my lovely garage bag holder that I cut completely with a jig saw. Don't sell yourself short, that looks nice!
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Jul 6, 2022 16:08
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Calidus posted:Behold my lovely garage bag holder that I cut completely with a jig saw. Nice even cut on the bag. Did you freehand it?
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Jul 6, 2022 17:30
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Calidus posted:Behold my lovely garage bag holder that I cut completely with a jig saw. Home depot red oak? Check. Home Depot red minwax goop? Check. Classic early days woodworking project-we all started here, and you have great things ahead of you!
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Jul 6, 2022 17:42
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If you cut those joints with a jigsaw, that's pretty impressive.
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Jul 6, 2022 17:47
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Home depot red oak? Check. Home Depot red minwax goop? Check. Classic early days woodworking project-we all started here, and you have great things ahead of you! My first project, I finished with the Home Depot red oak with shoe polish. It worked way better than I expected.
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Jul 6, 2022 17:54
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LightRailTycoon posted:My first project, I finished with the Home Depot red oak with shoe polish. It worked way better than I expected. I mean, shoe polish is basically oils, waxes, dye, and solvent, so it's basically wood finish already. Leather and wood have a lot in common as materials if you squint.
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Jul 6, 2022 17:57
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Watco and shoe polish are probably basically the same thing.
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Jul 6, 2022 18:20
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So is it tradition to post a wood haul publicly or just goad people privately?  (12) 2"x6"x104" (8) 2"x8"x104" $210 cash, plus $30 in gas and 3 hours round trip.  I'm gonna need so many tools...
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Jul 6, 2022 20:42
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El Spamo posted:What are you using for the engraving? https://www.amazon.com/Masuter-4040...a2-8997e41410bb Bought a "used" one which was just an open box, works great so far. Uthor posted:Dark comedy. Also this
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Jul 6, 2022 20:48
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Wandering Orange posted:So is it tradition to post a wood haul publicly or just goad people privately? Flaunt it. Sounds like a hella deal that's gonna make you spend 4x that in tools. That's how this drug works. What you got there anyway, buddy? Looks like ash to me, but I've been wrong the past several guesses.
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Jul 6, 2022 20:53
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Of course I forgot the important bit - it is white oak. Seller said he only really buys & saws white oak. If it's not white oak then I dunno cause it's dry but also very heavy.
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Jul 6, 2022 21:19
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Wandering Orange posted:Of course I forgot the important bit - it is white oak. Seller said he only really buys & saws white oak. If it's not white oak then I dunno cause it's dry but also very heavy. Those knots look a hell of a lot like dry white oak and are making me cringe for my plane irons. I'm very envious.
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Jul 6, 2022 21:25
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Edit/quote
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Jul 6, 2022 21:25
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Could make some kick rear end tables with that.
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Jul 7, 2022 00:06
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Wandering Orange posted:Of course I forgot the important bit - it is white oak. Seller said he only really buys & saws white oak. If it's not white oak then I dunno cause it's dry but also very heavy. I knew that. I KNEW that. You got a great deal, kid.
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Jul 7, 2022 00:32
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My kingdom for a haul like that. Love white oak, smells like bourbon.
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Jul 7, 2022 13:34
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NomNomNom posted:My kingdom for a haul like that. Love white oak, smells like bourbon. Other way round, but yeah, planing it makes me want to pour a glass.
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Jul 7, 2022 18:12
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SimonSays posted:Other way round, but yeah, planing it makes me want to pour a glass. The best part is that plenty of distilleries sell essentially moonshine/white dog. So if you want to see how it changes you can clean up some of the off cuts and toast/char them to see how that wood you have changes it. And then by the time I would be done building whatever the whiskey would be aged on oak long enough to drink. But at least I’d have a table or something to sit at with it. That’s a really sharp haul for an amazing price.
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Jul 7, 2022 19:54
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Wandering Orange posted:So is it tradition to post a wood haul publicly or just goad people privately? After the fuel costs, that's still only about $1 per boardfoot. You done good, especially if it's dry. 2" white oak is a lovely dimension, it's really easy to rip and flip to get gorgeous quartersawn panels if you want, and big enough to get riftsawn leg blanks out of.
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Jul 7, 2022 22:11
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Hypnolobster posted:After the fuel costs, that's still only about $1 per boardfoot. You done good, especially if it's dry. Don't stop, I'm so close
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Jul 7, 2022 23:07
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Help me decide on a finish for my new computer desk. The top is made from an ash slab which I had to panel up a bit and then filled in rotten/cracked chunks with clear epoxy. If you've seen the most recent Four Eyes video about the worst slab at the dealer, their slab has a lot in common with mine. It has a couple of sucupira bowtie inlays in it (I used sucupira because I have some and I wanted to try it out - would not use it again for this purpose but it looks fine.) The legs/feet/stretchers are made from reddish fir and assembled timberframe style. I based the design on one of James Wright's builds, but without all of the psychotic bent laminations. I've previously finished this ash with BLO and beeswax, but in this case I'm not sure about how that will work with with the erratic epoxy patterns. There are a few places that I can see epoxy has flooded flush into the surface to fill some of the distressed wood voids and I can't sand it away, so I'm worried that will become extremely visible if I put BLO on it. I've been thinking about doing a wipe-on poly for the top and then a dark stain for the legs (we have several pieces of dark stained fir furniture in our house, so that would be the match). Are there any other good options that I'm not considering?
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Jul 7, 2022 23:25
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The oil won't absorb into the epoxy, but assuming it's all sanded flat there won't really be a noticeable difference in finish, certainly not one that won't buff out quickly. BLO is a good deal yellower than clear epoxy, but that shouldn't matter if the epoxied bits are all rotten and oxidized (I usually stain my epoxy dark anyway, cause I'm using it to fill in laser holes and the like). Presumably you're OK with the epoxied voids being visible since you're talking clearcoats. Wipe-on poly ehhh should be fine but I'd want to do a couple test pieces first with different levels of pre-sanding, since if a film finish like that doesn't adhere to the epoxy bits properly it'll really look like poo poo.
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Jul 8, 2022 |
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Jul 8, 2022 03:26
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Any film finish should adhere fine to the epoxy as long as you don't sand finer than 320 grit, but a test piece is always a good idea. You're right the BLO won't soak in there. If you like the color the oil adds, you can oil it and then put a film finish over it once the oil has dried well.
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Jul 8, 2022 12:36
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Any film finish should adhere fine to the epoxy as long as you don't sand finer than 320 grit, but a test piece is always a good idea. You're right the BLO won't soak in there. If you like the color the oil adds, you can oil it and then put a film finish over it once the oil has dried well. A Wizard of Goatse posted:The oil won't absorb into the epoxy, but assuming it's all sanded flat there won't really be a noticeable difference in finish, certainly not one that won't buff out quickly. BLO is a good deal yellower than clear epoxy, but that shouldn't matter if the epoxied bits are all rotten and oxidized (I usually stain my epoxy dark anyway, cause I'm using it to fill in laser holes and the like). Presumably you're OK with the epoxied voids being visible since you're talking clearcoats. Wipe-on poly ehhh should be fine but I'd want to do a couple test pieces first with different levels of pre-sanding, since if a film finish like that doesn't adhere to the epoxy bits properly it'll really look like poo poo. Yeah the original plan was to add the colour that the BLO brings (and do one light coat of stain in between the first and second oil coat). I'm not too worried about colouring the epoxy generally - that was the original plan in filling a knothole or linear crack with resin goop right - the concern is more for these secondary areas where there's a thin layer of epoxy around a knot or it soaked into the surface of the wood and that the final product will look discoloured because it won't soak the oil. I think that the idea of oiling it first and following up with a (presumably tinted) film finish if things look weird is the way for me to go, because I really prefer the feel of the oil/wax finishes, and this is going to be an extremely touch surface for me. Thanks!
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Jul 8, 2022 15:01
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unless you're talking about like a bump of epoxy sitting on top of the sanded surface or a tearout I really wouldn't worry about it.
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Jul 8, 2022 15:57
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