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HappyHippo
Nov 19, 2003
Do you have an Air Miles Card?
Speaking of countertops, the house I just bought has quartz. Anyone have experience with these? My understanding is that they're physically very durable and non-porous, but you have to be careful with heat and can't place hot pans directly on them.

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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

HappyHippo posted:

Speaking of countertops, the house I just bought has quartz. Anyone have experience with these? My understanding is that they're physically very durable and non-porous, but you have to be careful with heat and can't place hot pans directly on them.

I wouldn't have learned that until I had a pot shaped burn in my counter. It never would have occurred to me since quartz = mineral.

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

I can't imagine cooking/prepping food on a dark countertop. Seems like a great way to always have uncleaned food and stains hanging around that you missed while cleaning.

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



H110Hawk posted:

I wouldn't have learned that until I had a pot shaped burn in my counter. It never would have occurred to me since quartz = mineral.

The quartz crystals in quartz countertops are fine, it's the resin that binds them that has an issue with heat.
Anything over about 300 degrees can damage quartz if I remember right. You're also not supposed to use knives directly on it as it can scratch. Same with abrasive cleaners.
It is way more stain resistant than natural stone though.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Just had a panic attack after we had a brief power outage and when it came back on the fridge wasn't cooling. It's a Samsung and so of course of dubious manufacturing and design quality. The internal temperature LCD was flashing random segments and I was thinking it was a fried circuit board. I did some googling and turns out that's how it displays error codes! Of course there is no mention at all of this in the manual and the error codes are not available on the Samsung website. Luckily other Samsung Sufferers have put them out there to find. Turns out my errors were because I removed the ice maker from the freezer to get more freezer space, and when it POSTs it checks for ice maker sensors and wasn't finding them. The crazy thing is that this error stops it from starting the compressor or working at all otherwise. The moment I plugged in the maker maker cable it immediately kicked on and started cooling again. Can you imagine if your ice maker died or got damaged and you lost all the food in your fridge because it wouldn't cool without it?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

SpartanIvy posted:

Just had a panic attack after we had a brief power outage and when it came back on the fridge wasn't cooling. It's a Samsung and so of course of dubious manufacturing and design quality. The internal temperature LCD was flashing random segments and I was thinking it was a fried circuit board. I did some googling and turns out that's how it displays error codes! Of course there is no mention at all of this in the manual and the error codes are not available on the Samsung website. Luckily other Samsung Sufferers have put them out there to find. Turns out my errors were because I removed the ice maker from the freezer to get more freezer space, and when it POSTs it checks for ice maker sensors and wasn't finding them. The crazy thing is that this error stops it from starting the compressor or working at all otherwise. The moment I plugged in the maker maker cable it immediately kicked on and started cooling again. Can you imagine if your ice maker died or got damaged and you lost all the food in your fridge because it wouldn't cool without it?

The amount of stupidity with Samsung devices shows no bounds. It's really amazing. "Welp couldn't connect to twitter better destroy all the food."


AFewBricksShy posted:

The quartz crystals in quartz countertops are fine, it's the resin that binds them that has an issue with heat.

Yeah, just never would have occurred to me. I'm so spoiled with our granite counters just slapping a red hot pan straight onto it because who cares.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Is there a YouTube thread in this subforum? :confused:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_fxXGb8t_k

Idk who Stud Pack are but these people seem like good craftsmen/craftspeople -- learned good technique in their videos but the dude goes over some things really fast and skips a lot that is already assumed knowledge

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWfEANZOYSk

This dude is good too. I'm not gonna DIY a ton of the stuff that they are doing most likely, but it is cool to see the right way to get it done.

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Jul 8, 2022

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
I like the Stud Pack guys but I'm worried that the oldest son who does all filming and editing is going to be driven to ruin by trying to chase the algorithm.

BaseballPCHiker
Jan 16, 2006

Anyone have any experience with those snap off type screws that go into floorboards and the joist to cut down on squeaky floors?

The wood floor right outside my kids door squeaks like a mother and I've thought about trying them but they seem a bit gimmicky and I have awesome looking 100+ year old maple floors I want to gouge up as little as possible.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

BaseballPCHiker posted:

Anyone have any experience with those snap off type screws that go into floorboards and the joist to cut down on squeaky floors?

The wood floor right outside my kids door squeaks like a mother and I've thought about trying them but they seem a bit gimmicky and I have awesome looking 100+ year old maple floors I want to gouge up as little as possible.

That doesn't really sound like the kind of thing you want for the reasons you mentioned. I could swear I've heard of something that uses an expanding foam sort of thing that is engineered to firm up but not expand overmuch and bulge. I still would be pretty concerned about doing it in a heritage home.


I have 7 year old (engineered) maple floors maybe I'll hit you up in 85 years and we can reminisce.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Queen Victorian posted:

I guess I've come to view kitchen countertops as work surfaces that are inherently imperfect and subject to regular wear and tear from cooking and other kitchen activities. I know it kind of goes against the grain of the current ideal of a perpetually pristine kitchen countertop that looks like it's never handled anything beyond having takeout containers and wine glasses placed upon it, but I just don't want to have to worry about keeping a surface perfect while regularly doing things that could very easily mar it or otherwise render it less than perfect.

I actually like the look of imperfections and wear from everyday use :shrug:
The house I grew up in had butcher-block counters throughout the kitchen, as was fashionable in the '70s. I loved it. Sure, the bits next to the stove got scorched when you hastily moved a pan there, and there were knife marks as time went on, but you know what? Whenever you wanted a cutting board, you had it, no matter what anybody else was doing in the kitchen. There wasn't a single bit of countertop you had to worry about protecting from heat or knives or anything. It was awesome. We also had a slab of marble my mom had bought from a headstone maker that was set into the cabinet next to the sink. Ideal for kneading bread, and for making pie crust, and very rarely, for candy-making.

SubponticatePoster
Aug 9, 2004

Every day takes figurin' out all over again how to fuckin' live.
Slippery Tilde

His Divine Shadow posted:

I got these deposits that have built up in the shower on tiles, particularly in the corners. I can't get them off with acidic cleaners, that usually works but not on these. I tried degreasers. like oven cleaner and denatured alcohol but no luck with those either, even tried in combination with steam cleaning and scrubbing, but this feels as hard as rock.
Depending on your tile, pumice stone might work. I have really hard water, so no matter how often or well I clean the toilet/sink/tub it gets hard water deposits and pumice takes it right off. No chemicals required.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Queen Victorian posted:

I actually like the look of imperfections and wear from everyday use :shrug:
This is me with wood floors. I grew up in a couple of houses that were 100 years old, and the floors had some imperfections and creaked, and that's just how my brain grew to prefer them.

BaseballPCHiker posted:

Anyone have any experience with those snap off type screws that go into floorboards and the joist to cut down on squeaky floors?

The wood floor right outside my kids door squeaks like a mother and I've thought about trying them but they seem a bit gimmicky and I have awesome looking 100+ year old maple floors I want to gouge up as little as possible.

Like this guy? He's trying to ruin perfectly good creaky floors. Outrageous.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe

H110Hawk posted:

I wouldn't have learned that until I had a pot shaped burn in my counter. It never would have occurred to me since quartz = mineral.

Blame marketing. “Quartz” countertops are largely mineral dust, silica, and glue. It’s an engineered product. Some assemblies can be decently durable but it’s never going to be as solid as a rock.

Quartzite is the actual stone you’d want countertops made out of. Cut and polished like granite or marble. It’s good stuff.

Hed fucked around with this message at 12:58 on Jul 8, 2022

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Queen Victorian posted:

If your budget permits, I'd look into soapstone, which is what lab bench surfaces used to be made from. Soapstone is chemically inert, highly heat resistant, and dense to the point of being nonporous and not requiring sealant, which is why it was an ideal material for science labs and electrical insulation and poo poo back in the day. If you want it to be shiny and super black, rub with mineral oil every so often. Not sure what about maintaining it is a bitch other than periodic oiling (which doesn't seem any more of a pain that normal wiping/cleaning).... That it's soft and prone to scratches? You can buff those out (no sealant layer preventing you from doing that) and oiling will reduce appearance of scratches.

If I had enough natural light in my kitchen to allow for dark countertops, I would 100% go with soapstone (it's even period correct for my house!).

I stayed in a vacation house rental that had soapstone countertops and the owner left some insane instructions on care, use etc. I was never sure if it was just insane airBnB owner instructions or they were actually a pain to maintain, but I do remember they showed very clearly where any oil or grease had been.

They do look really nice though. A friend has honed granite countertops and I think that would be my choice for my next countertop. Similar satin/matte look but with a little pattern to hide crap and durable as heck. They also show oil spots, but not as much and seem to be easier to clean.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Slugworth posted:

This is me with wood floors. I grew up in a couple of houses that were 100 years old, and the floors had some imperfections and creaked, and that's just how my brain grew to prefer them.

Like this guy? He's trying to ruin perfectly good creaky floors. Outrageous.

I don't mind my creaking floors (the house is 140 years old or something like that), but I do mind the one or two nails I have that consistently work themselves back out and stab me in the foot before I pound them back in again. I should probably actually do something to fix them but just whacking them with a hammer every six months is more satisfying. I wonder if I could just put some adhesive on them next time I hammer them back down or something.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

They do look really nice though. A friend has honed granite countertops and I think that would be my choice for my next countertop. Similar satin/matte look but with a little pattern to hide crap and durable as heck. They also show oil spots, but not as much and seem to be easier to clean.

Smooth granite is what I have and I haven't had any issues even spilling oil on them and poo poo :shrug:

Wallet fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Jul 8, 2022

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Wallet posted:

I don't mind my creaking floors (the house is 140 years old or something like that), but I do mind the one or two nails I have that consistently work themselves back out and stab me in the foot before I pound them back in again. I should probably actually do something to fix them but just whacking them with a hammer every six months is more satisfying. I wonder if I could just put some adhesive on them next time I hammer them back down or something

Pull the offending nail and replace it with a ring-shank nail. Maybe a dot of wood glue in the hole first.

BaseballPCHiker
Jan 16, 2006

To be clear this is what I was referring too:
https://www.amazon.com/Squeak-Squeaky-Replacement-Eliminate-Through/dp/B0B2KF5CKY/

Supposedly they dont really show up but I have my doubts. Really on the fence about even trying them.

The Midniter
Jul 9, 2001

We have two outdoor heat pump units for our home, original to the house (2004). In our year of ownership, we've had to have the capacitor replaced in each one. When the HVAC tech was here the other day replacing the second one, he mentioned that they don't have a terribly long lifespan and that he has a customer whose unit has to have its capacitor replaced pretty much yearly.

How much more life can we reasonably expect to get out of these units? The previous owners did almost no maintenance to anything in the whole house, and while we've made sure to have them cleaned/serviced twice a year, I'm afraid the damage has been done. The tech mentioned that otherwise they look to be in good condition with no refrigerant leaks or anything, but I'm wary due to their age and aforementioned lack of care. I don't relish the thought of dumping five figures into replacing them any time soon.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

BaseballPCHiker posted:

To be clear this is what I was referring too:
https://www.amazon.com/Squeak-Squeaky-Replacement-Eliminate-Through/dp/B0B2KF5CKY/

Supposedly they dont really show up but I have my doubts. Really on the fence about even trying them.

That looks like someone repackaged a bunch of chinese knockoff Spax screws.

I'd suggest getting the actual Spax ones.


The Midniter posted:

We have two outdoor heat pump units for our home, original to the house (2004). In our year of ownership, we've had to have the capacitor replaced in each one. When the HVAC tech was here the other day replacing the second one, he mentioned that they don't have a terribly long lifespan and that he has a customer whose unit has to have its capacitor replaced pretty much yearly.

How much more life can we reasonably expect to get out of these units? The previous owners did almost no maintenance to anything in the whole house, and while we've made sure to have them cleaned/serviced twice a year, I'm afraid the damage has been done. The tech mentioned that otherwise they look to be in good condition with no refrigerant leaks or anything, but I'm wary due to their age and aforementioned lack of care. I don't relish the thought of dumping five figures into replacing them any time soon.


Sounds like a commentary on the capacitors, not the actual units. And some capacitors get worked harder than others on certain units/your local power/etc. A capacitor is like $20 and takes 15 minutes to change. A new AC unit is well over $3k. I'd stock and swap capacitors as needed.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

BaseballPCHiker posted:

To be clear this is what I was referring too:
https://www.amazon.com/Squeak-Squeaky-Replacement-Eliminate-Through/dp/B0B2KF5CKY/

Supposedly they dont really show up but I have my doubts. Really on the fence about even trying them.

I used something similar a few years back, but I swore the ones I used had a second set of threads on them. It went pointy end->thread->smooth shank->thread->breaking point->screw head. Anyway, they actually worked, but in my case it was through carpet, so it was securing the subfloor to the joist at the squeaky spots. Im not sure I would try them on hardwood unless you're really desperate as there's a 100% chance you'll be able to see the screw shank...but that may not be a big deal depending on the species/colour of your floor.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

The Midniter posted:

We have two outdoor heat pump units for our home, original to the house (2004). In our year of ownership, we've had to have the capacitor replaced in each one. When the HVAC tech was here the other day replacing the second one, he mentioned that they don't have a terribly long lifespan and that he has a customer whose unit has to have its capacitor replaced pretty much yearly.

How much more life can we reasonably expect to get out of these units? The previous owners did almost no maintenance to anything in the whole house, and while we've made sure to have them cleaned/serviced twice a year, I'm afraid the damage has been done. The tech mentioned that otherwise they look to be in good condition with no refrigerant leaks or anything, but I'm wary due to their age and aforementioned lack of care. I don't relish the thought of dumping five figures into replacing them any time soon.

Like Motronic said, caps aren't a big deal. I keep a spare set on hand for when the inevitably die. I may just start replacing them every spring with them being so cheap. I live in a hot climate and those things just don't last long.

As long as the rest of the system is working properly, don't worry about caps. Learn to replace them yourself and save the labor fee. My local company wanted 185 bucks in labor to swap one out which is pretty much criminal.

The Midniter
Jul 9, 2001

Good to know. What would I use to diagnose whether the capacitor is the issue, if one of the unit stops working? Or if there's an issue, replace the capacitor as the first step and see if that fixes the problem?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

The Midniter posted:

Good to know. What would I use to diagnose whether the capacitor is the issue, if one of the unit stops working? Or if there's an issue, replace the capacitor as the first step and see if that fixes the problem?

And LCR meter or specific capacitor tester.

I wouldn't bother. Now that you know the symptoms you know when it's probably a good idea to spend 15 minutes giving it a try.

But a quick look on amazon shows some "capacitor tester" meters starting at $20.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I have quartz and have routinely put pretty warm pots and pans on them. I love them, way more than my old granite and never chipped or discolored or anything.

Hed posted:

Blame marketing. “Quartz” countertops are largely mineral dust, silica, and glue. It’s an engineered product. Some assemblies can be decently durable but it’s never going to be as solid as a rock.

Quartzite is the actual stone you’d want countertops made out of. Cut and polished like granite or marble. It’s good stuff.
Huh, or maybe it's this. How can I tell the difference?

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

slidebite posted:

I have quartz and have routinely put pretty warm pots and pans on them. I love them, way more than my old granite and never chipped or discolored or anything.

Huh, or maybe it's this. How can I tell the difference?

Quartzite looks like real stone (because it is). Some types tend to look quite marble-like with colorful veins and natural variation. It's very pretty. Quartz is a composite material made from quartz gravel/sand suspended in resin, not unlike terrazzo. In recent years, it's gotten a bit better at mimicking real stone with better color variation and marble-like veining, but if you look closely, it's still aggregate suspended in resin and the veining is usually not quite right.

Here's a pic I took of the type of quartzite my husband and I are interested in:

Basically, a pretty natural rock with marble-like aesthetic qualities.

And here's an Internet pic of a quartz slab:

Veining looks almost painted on. It doesn't look bad, just not real. Honestly, home builders in the Victorian era would probably have been all over engineered quartz if it came in more colorful varieties and was cheaper than importing exotic marble. They loooooved painting cheap slate to look like fancy marble because you could make your house punch above its weight in fanciness for a fraction of the price. Same deal with painting pine to look like exotic hardwoods.

Actually, if anyone's specifically into engineered/composite material for countertops, terrazzo might be worth considering. Similar in nature to quartz, but a different vibe/aesthetic and it does not try to pretend to be real stone.

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!
Quartz is actually nice and to most people looks a lot like marble. It’s just much more durable, easier to clean and maintain. So in a kitchen environment has good utility. Some veining can indeed look artificial, but not always. We put quartz in as a backsplash and counter, but used black granite for our bar and marble in our bathroom. They all look great in my opinion and I have no concerns about the countertops being damaged or stained.

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
I finally got around to finishing the glazing and reassembling my basement window.





Pain in the rear end, but worth it. Still need to caulk and paint, then I think I’ll do the other windows without the full disassembly part.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Good work, looks much nicer.

Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!
I finally found a trap that managed to catch one of the menacing chipmunks at my house. I set it up with some raisins for bait and got one within a couple hours this afternoon. They're super easy to set and reset too!

Victor M144 Power Kill Rat Trap - 1 Pack https://a.co/d/4XuxFoW

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Goddamn that window looks great! Unless you post about it in excruciating detail, no one will know what an enormous amount of time and effort went into it. Well done

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer
Kitchen counter chat: Consider epoxy... we went with and it's been great. The only issue I've had with it is red 40 dye (christmas cookies ugh) seems to sink into it and become impossible to remove. This would of course not be a problem if you were going with black.

Appliance chat: Anyone have a good source for service manuals? I either need a service manual for a Kitchenaid KRFF302ESS01 fridge, or a wiring diagram for the W10317076 high voltage control board. The (nearly brand new) icemaker has stopped working, and poking around with a multimeter it seems to only be getting 2V AC, which sounds very, very low.

It also managed to completely freeze up the water lines in the fridge recently, so I'm thinking control board. Although I'm not willing to throw $300 at parts in it randomly.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Toebone posted:

I finally got around to finishing the glazing and reassembling my basement window.

SUCH an improvement. Also now i gotta finish the window I've been"working on" for just under a year.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

devicenull posted:

Kitchen counter chat: Consider epoxy... we went with and it's been great. The only issue I've had with it is red 40 dye (christmas cookies ugh) seems to sink into it and become impossible to remove. This would of course not be a problem if you were going with black.

Appliance chat: Anyone have a good source for service manuals? I either need a service manual for a Kitchenaid KRFF302ESS01 fridge, or a wiring diagram for the W10317076 high voltage control board. The (nearly brand new) icemaker has stopped working, and poking around with a multimeter it seems to only be getting 2V AC, which sounds very, very low.

It also managed to completely freeze up the water lines in the fridge recently, so I'm thinking control board. Although I'm not willing to throw $300 at parts in it randomly.

I'd check the iFixit website.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



devicenull posted:

...
Appliance chat:

https://www.repairclinic.com/UserManual/7272cbc364dd4d78be25711347d99361/User-Instructions-W10635371-Rev-B-Sp-

devicenull posted:

or a wiring diagram for the W10317076 high voltage control board.

Closest I could find was an install reset sequence:
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/answers-for-whirlpool-control-apollo-wpw10317076-ap6019378-question-131718.html

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer
Thanks, yea I couldn't find anything more then that stuff either.

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

I've got an old fridge that goes through cycles where it makes a click-buzz-pause, click-buzz-pause sound. The cycles go faster and faster and it slowly stops cooling until it totally defrosts and then it starts back up again.

It had been about 9 months between these defrost cycles but they've been getting shorter and shorter. The worthless home warranty company keeps sending people out who are misdiagnosing it. I think it's the compressor unit dying, but they pointed to to the capacitor (it was not) and the control board (we'll see!).

Curious what folks in here think.

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

El Mero Mero posted:

I've got an old fridge that goes through cycles where it makes a click-buzz-pause, click-buzz-pause sound. The cycles go faster and faster and it slowly stops cooling until it totally defrosts and then it starts back up again.

It had been about 9 months between these defrost cycles but they've been getting shorter and shorter. The worthless home warranty company keeps sending people out who are misdiagnosing it. I think it's the compressor unit dying, but they pointed to to the capacitor (it was not) and the control board (we'll see!).

Curious what folks in here think.

Could be a bad start relay (if its role hasn't been taken over by the control board - not sure how old you mean when you say your fridge is old). It's a small, relatively cheap electronic mechanism that controls turning on and off the compressor as needed. As I understand, the compressor itself is a dumb component and will just do what the relay/control board tells it to (even if the input is completely haywire), and has a low chance of being the point of failure in the fridge.

The relay in our 20yo fridge fried itself a few months ago and it was thankfully a cheap and easy DIY fix. I don't remember compressor cycles being weird or unusually rapid - it seemed in our case it was a matter of the relay physically failing rather than programming/signaling getting messed up.

What was helpful for us was finding YouTube videos about diagnosing and repairing similar models of fridges. We too initially thought it was the compressor, but with the help of the repair videos, we were able to successfully diagnose the bad start relay and order a new one.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik

devmd01 posted:

The wife wanted a new towel rack in the upstairs bathroom, fine.



…gently caress you, PO.

Much better. Sanded, skim coat to fill in the ripped paper, primer again, paint.

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Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Wow, that branch is graceful. Did you make it?

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