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This is not necessarily how he did it but get some Vallejo duraluminium, some ink and mix it together for coloured metallic. Works best if you have a neutral silvery metal colour. Shameless stolen from Marco F.
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Jul 11, 2022 00:08
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I used: 1) army painter air plate mail metal base 2) army painter air shining silver zenithal (top 50%) 3) tamiya clear blue 80%/tamiya clear green 20% (I have a big premixed pot of this) thinned to airbrush consistency 4) tamiya clear blue from below, thinned to airbrush consistency 5) tamiya clear green from above, thinned to airbrush consistency 6) mixture of tamiya clear blue and shining silver (only on the very highest points) 7) glaze with a brush with tamiya clear blue thinned with glaze medium to the proper consistency. This blends the colors quite a bit. 8) details picked out with a brush
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Jul 11, 2022 00:15
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Hoboskins posted:This is not necessarily how he did it but get some Vallejo duraluminium, some ink and mix it together for coloured metallic. Works best if you have a neutral silvery metal colour. Shameless stolen from Marco F. I tried this and it didn't work for poo poo. So on my CSM I used contrast over a grisaille metal base and was very happy with it 
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Jul 11, 2022 01:09
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I did the Contrast over Metallic drybrush as suggested earlier in the thread. My biggest weakness is that I'm not good at getting smooth coverage with those paints yet. And I may have spoiled the effect a bit with edge highlights. But that's for next time I do it.
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Jul 11, 2022 01:14
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Spanish Manlove posted:I tried this and it didn't work for poo poo. So on my CSM I used contrast over a grisaille metal base and was very happy with it Might have been because of the difference in the underpainting or ink? I also used an airbrush to apply it as well. Good you have a different solution I have no reason not to use contrast but I don't need more unused paints in my collection.
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Jul 11, 2022 01:23
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Spanish Manlove posted:Oooh yeah, love that teal/green. What paint did you use over metallic for that? I dunno if this is wat they did, but I'm far too lazy to try mixing paints so for odd-colored metallics, I've bought some from Turbo Dork That green looks kinda like the gem dragonborn I painted using Turbo Dork's Absinthe over white primer.
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Jul 11, 2022 01:38
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Cooked Auto posted:I did the Contrast over Metallic drybrush as suggested earlier in the thread. My biggest weakness is that I'm not good at getting smooth coverage with those paints yet. Well, I think it came out looking great. Good job!
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Jul 11, 2022 03:00
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Any recommendations on how to create smoke? I lost a part of my assault termite drills,, so I did a quick thermocast with some greenstuff  Not the best replacement bit, but it's usable. I'm leaning into making it look like it got hit with a plasma shot th explain the droopiness. I'm thinking liquitex modeling paste for flames, but I'm not sure how to make good looking smoke.
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Jul 11, 2022 03:51
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Starting up with the hobby again, not quite to the painting stage yet (my one model for testing spray primer got fuzzed bad, so waiting until I have time to brush prime again). Not strictly a painting question, but painting adjacent: I normally use Loctite Ultra Gel Control glue for my models. It works well enough, but I have nerve issues in my hands and the amount of force needed to get the last ~1/2 - 2/3 of the glue out of the bottle and onto a model, with its pinch design, is enough to leave lingering pain up my arm for a while after working (and sharp pain while working). Is there an alternative that's comparable in adhesive quality while having a better applicator method? I regularly use resin bits, so plastic glue is not a workable substitute, as nice as brush applicators may be.
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Jul 11, 2022 04:25
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I buy super glue with a brush applicator at my local dollar store all the time amd gorilla glue sells super glue with a brush applicator as well
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Jul 11, 2022 04:45
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SkyeAuroline posted:Starting up with the hobby again, not quite to the painting stage yet (my one model for testing spray primer got fuzzed bad, so waiting until I have time to brush prime again). Not strictly a painting question, but painting adjacent: I use the exact same glue, the only way I've found around the issue is to just cut away the bottle So I can fit my finger up between the external shell and the glue bottle and just push the remaining glue out.
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Jul 11, 2022 04:47
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SkyeAuroline posted:Starting up with the hobby again, not quite to the painting stage yet (my one model for testing spray primer got fuzzed bad, so waiting until I have time to brush prime again). Not strictly a painting question, but painting adjacent: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Liquid-Professional-20-Gram-1365882/ I use this and I love it doesn't take much effort to squeeze and the bottle is huge and has lasted much longer than those garbage metal tubes I only wish it was gel in this bottle
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Jul 11, 2022 04:54
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SkyeAuroline posted:Starting up with the hobby again, not quite to the painting stage yet (my one model for testing spray primer got fuzzed bad, so waiting until I have time to brush prime again). Not strictly a painting question, but painting adjacent: The best way I have found to apply super glue is to get a medium CA super glue that is in a whatever type of container works easiest for you. The secret is don't apply the glue from the glue pot. Squirt a drop of glue out onto a piece of plastic, like a blister box cover, and then apply the super glue with another tool, as needed. Using a dress maker pin or even a paperclip or toothpick in a pin vise works really well. When I do this the glue in the tray lasts 10 to 15 minutes or so, so you have plenty of time to use it. Watch the YouTube channel "World of Wayne" to see this in action.
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Jul 11, 2022 05:26
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Cooked Auto posted:I did the Contrast over Metallic drybrush as suggested earlier in the thread. My biggest weakness is that I'm not good at getting smooth coverage with those paints yet. This dude looks great, and the edge highlights look totally fine
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Jul 11, 2022 05:26
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i keep forgetting the contrast over metallics and I wish I had done that for my purple chaos marine
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Jul 11, 2022 05:28
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Spanish Manlove posted:This dude looks great, and the edge highlights look totally fine Meant more that they sorta hide what the drybrushing does to the edges in this case. But as I said, it's for next time I paint something like that. GreenBuckanneer posted:i keep forgetting the contrast over metallics and I wish I had done that for my purple chaos marine Sounds like you need to get more Chaos Space Marines.
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Jul 11, 2022 11:23
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The Demilich posted:Any recommendations on how to create smoke? FW will probably send you the missing piece of you say it wasn't in the box.
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Jul 11, 2022 11:25
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Cool dude to hang out after dark with My phone seems stuck on eye searing vibrancy, it's not that saturated irl.   I accidentally got some red on the still grey/ white ground that looked like a bloodstain, and went  gonna do that on purpose later.
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Jul 11, 2022 11:33
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Red, gold, and black is such a good combo
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Jul 11, 2022 13:24
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Thanks for the glue tips, folks. Once I've made sure I'm actually out of glue in this tube I'll pick up something new. Also spray primed again this morning, and while not completely fuzz free, it went much better this time, so at least I don't have to fear dealing with the Spartan in the future too much. GreenBuckanneer posted:[url]https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Liquid-Professional-20-Gram-1365882/[/url This link is dead, but I picked up enough from the url to know what to search.
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Jul 11, 2022 13:47
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Professor Shark posted:Red, gold, and black is such a good combo  he was really fun to paint. I can't believe how fast a zenithal drybrush and contrast paints job comes together. The majority was done in a casual hour, then another half hour dicking around glazing the red higher and pushing blue into shadows to mixed effect, plus rimming the base. After dying on orruk hill and being very unhappy with the result, this is so chill and fun.
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Jul 11, 2022 14:44
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Eediot Jedi posted:
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Jul 11, 2022 14:54
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Xpost from the 30k thread because I'm on an Alpha Legion ROLL right nowCount Thrashula posted:Hell yeah Alpha Legion, Hydra DOMINATUS
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Jul 11, 2022 17:03
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SkyeAuroline posted:Starting up with the hobby again, not quite to the painting stage yet (my one model for testing spray primer got fuzzed bad, so waiting until I have time to brush prime again). Not strictly a painting question, but painting adjacent: While you'll definitely need superglue for resin or metal minis, if you're only dealing with plastics the real trick is to stop using superglue altogether. Plastic cement, if it's an option for you, will both be easier on your nerve endings thanks to the packaging and give you easier, quicker bonds.
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Jul 11, 2022 18:01
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I'm a weirdo who uses both plastic cement and superglue on their models. Both have their strengths and weaknesses so I use them where they are best applicable. Plastic cement for torsos and basically anything you can touch a soccer ball without getting a penalty. Also on parts with obvious seams to fill the gaps in. Superglue on fiddly parts as it sticks insanely fast in this humid swamp hell that I live in. Bonus with super glue is that you can snap the part off after a bit so it's useful for arms where GW will make your loadout suck in the next edition so it's planning ahead just in case.
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Jul 11, 2022 18:44
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Super glue can be useful for gluing the mini to the base and then popping the mini off after priming to do base work if needed.
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Jul 11, 2022 23:07
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Eediot Jedi posted:
Wait, is that not actual metallic gold paint? I honestly can't tell. It looks great either way. I'm preparing to drybrush most of an army this evening in preparation of contrast application so it's super encouraging to see it look so great.
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Jul 12, 2022 00:00
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Super glue can be useful for gluing the mini to the base and then popping the mini off after priming to do base work if needed. This is the truth.
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Jul 12, 2022 00:18
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Well, the grand return to painting was a mistake. Palette made exactly the same way as I always made it for years, with no visible problems whatsoever, hosed up the consistency of my paint badly enough that the same paint from the same spot on the palette was alternating between "full coverage" and "the thinnest wash I can think of" in a matter of one or two strokes. Can't keep my hands steady enough for the fine detail any more, and even if I could I hosed up the (brand new) brush I was using within 30 minutes. Couple it with lovely color choices making it look even worse... yeah, I'm already regretting coming back to the hobby, this is going to purely be a source of stress for me it looks like. Still appreciate the advice, both recently & the last time I tried starting again (with almost the exact same results). Have to figure it out somehow, I guess, I'm not fielding unpainted miniatures and even if I was I'm not making my future life harder by covering up all the detail in assembly.
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Jul 12, 2022 01:47
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SkyeAuroline posted:Well, the grand return to painting was a mistake. Palette made exactly the same way as I always made it for years, with no visible problems whatsoever, hosed up the consistency of my paint badly enough that the same paint from the same spot on the palette was alternating between "full coverage" and "the thinnest wash I can think of" in a matter of one or two strokes. Can't keep my hands steady enough for the fine detail any more, and even if I could I hosed up the (brand new) brush I was using within 30 minutes. Couple it with lovely color choices making it look even worse... yeah, I'm already regretting coming back to the hobby, this is going to purely be a source of stress for me it looks like. Priming a mini black and then hitting it with a zenithal white might be "good enough" for getting minis on the field with at least some paint on them. There is also a good chance your brush can be saved, but I suppose it would depend on how it was messed up. Maybe try sticking with a dry palette for a bit? I also have issues with my paint consistency with my professionally manufactured wet palette, but I think that is due to me drowning everything in water and paint thinner. Don't give up, Skeleton!
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Jul 12, 2022 02:00
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Wrr posted:Priming a mini black and then hitting it with a zenithal white might be "good enough" for getting minis on the field with at least some paint on them. I'm sure it can be "saved", but the tip curved well past 90 degrees from nothing but brushing gently with the side of the brush, and split to two points. Dry palette is a possibility that's currently constrained by "my budget ran out fifty dollars ago and every cent spent on this is taking away from needs instead". Trying to make what I already own work. Given that it worked for years for painting an entire army plus misc poo poo from scratch, you'd think it would continue to. Evidently you'd be wrong. As far as "good enough", no, my personal line is "fully painted and sealed, no sooner". Call it irrational or whatever, it makes sure I either finish my poo poo or have a very stressful incentive to finish it.
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Jul 12, 2022 02:07
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Cooked Auto posted:Meant more that they sorta hide what the drybrushing does to the edges in this case. But as I said, it's for next time I paint something like that. I mean, I do have more chaos space marines, but I am wanting to follow along with the guide for those which means it's in the 'eavy metal style and it's gonna take fiveever I don't particularly want to start a but hey i'm getting some skittari in this next round of issues in the magazine... side question: How much zenethal should one do? I think for doing that trick, that's something I don't quite understand yet. If I come at it from one direction then the whole back of the mini is obviously dark GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Jul 12, 2022 |
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Jul 12, 2022 02:58
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Maybe you could field an army that only needs to be dipped or has very few fine details. I am thinking of the Age of Sigmar ghost armies that look like they would just be successive layers of washes or contrast paints. I mean, you would be locked into one or two particular armies or styles, but it is something that may be do-able. For 40k you could do Necrons, spray them with the Bronze spray and then just put a few interesting colors of contrast paint over some general areas and that would work out pretty well. Tyranids may be something you could get away without doing a lot of details. Comedy option; do a "forgotten legion" of space marines and then just paint them up as ghosts like the AoS ghosts. You could say they are a holographic army.
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Jul 12, 2022 03:00
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Maybe you could field an army that only needs to be dipped or has very few fine details. I am thinking of the Age of Sigmar ghost armies that look like they would just be successive layers of washes or contrast paints. I mean, you would be locked into one or two particular armies or styles, but it is something that may be do-able. For 40k you could do Necrons, spray them with the Bronze spray and then just put a few interesting colors of contrast paint over some general areas and that would work out pretty well. Tyranids may be something you could get away without doing a lot of details. Comedy option; do a "forgotten legion" of space marines and then just paint them up as ghosts like the AoS ghosts. You could say they are a holographic army. I am entirely too  to be satisfied with a 3 color army This is what the magazine has me do so far, minus the issue set before last. Necrons are my main army but they take so drat long
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Jul 12, 2022 03:09
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Aranan posted:Wait, is that not actual metallic gold paint? I honestly can't tell. It looks great either way. I'm preparing to drybrush most of an army this evening in preparation of contrast application so it's super encouraging to see it look so great. Lol nope. As I warned in my post, the phone is increasing the saturation a lot. It's not that vibrant but it is still yellow. It's black undercoat, grey seer drybrush then Vallejo cold white drybrush. Iyanden yellow in two coats, trying to force pooling in some places, trying to remove a lot of the 2nd coat especially with a clean wet brush in others like the curve of the horns. I'd do a few test figures before your whole army. I feel like from painting two guys to completion I have a better idea of when to go heavy and when to go light. After vampires, I have a daughters of khaine band to do, I want to try grey seer on the underside then a warmer top, maybe wraithbone, then a cold/ warm bright white. Might look atrocious, might work.
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Jul 12, 2022 03:39
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If you have a pure white you should do a light, top down drybrush to finish it off. Noticed that helps a lot.
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Jul 12, 2022 03:54
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 babbys first real paint. i did one guy up a bunch and got the armor on all of them painted im trying to finalize my color scheme gonna gently caress around with edge highlighting tomorrow and other poo poo. i think a white or grey secondary tone would look much better than a black
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Jul 12, 2022 04:12
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        finished up some more physical loot/data tokens from Stargrave
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Jul 12, 2022 05:10
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in my headcannon this is full of beans
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Jul 12, 2022 05:52
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tangy yet delightful posted:in my headcannon this is full of beans https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KN7FXEl4NhQ
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Jul 12, 2022 06:08
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