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I dunno what does the spec sheet say for your specific product Cure time is going to be impacted by heat and humidity. The upper and lower limits are typically pretty exact and can't be fudged.
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Jul 7, 2022 16:58
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StormDrain posted:2006 Nissan xterra, V6. Throwing a p0300 random cylinder misfire and a p0430 catalyst efficiency below. Service engine soon light has been reported as blinking recently. Here are the plugs. The lighter colored ones are from the drivers side, the black ones from the passenger side.  (one from the passenger side for comparison)  All three from the passenger side. Any thoughts on this? This leads me to eliminating spark plugs and coils as a problem, and now it might be excessive fuel? Or too lean on the other side and the ecu is overcoming it, but the OBD was indicating a lot of fuel adjustment on one side and not on the other.
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Jul 8, 2022 02:00
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StormDrain posted:Here are the plugs. The lighter colored ones are from the drivers side, the black ones from the passenger side. Hey, I don't have anything that useful to add, but the second picture on the right, the one plug thats blacker and looks more worn than the others, did that come from one of the back cylinders? Just wondering, I've heard that one of the rear plugs on the Frontier/Xterra V6 is a mega pain in the rear end to get to and change. Did you find that?
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Jul 8, 2022 02:04
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Hey, I don't have anything that useful to add, but the second picture on the right, the one plug thats blacker and looks more worn than the others, did that come from one of the back cylinders? All three on the passenger side require removal of intake parts. Otherwise not that hard to get to. Also it was from the frontmost. I thought it looked interesting and the gap might be too small, so I asked for a followup pic.  I asked if he dropped it and we don't think so. But.. Why? Why would it be closed entirely? My further thought is if that cylinder was effectively dead, would it lead to the other two on that bank running rich or lean? I would guess lean if the computer is cutting fuel. They all seem like they're rich to me and therefore black? Could be extra crazy where the sensors are hooked up in reverse, but that seems very unlikely.
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Jul 8, 2022 05:33
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If there's anything I know, it's spark plugs. But, I'm an engineer, not a mechanic. Just a word of warning. First the three fouled plugs. That's from misfiring. Given that they are all on one bank, it suggests something g that is wrong in the intake system on that side. Are the coils a cassette style where they are all connected or totally separated with separated wiring? If the former, coils could be an issue. Otherwise, they don't quite look fuel fouled (but it's hard to tell) so I think fueling itself might be okay. Otherwise, whatever components that are exclusive to that bank, including both sensors and intake manifold (e.g. Crack) could be suspect. As for the closed gap plug, again, it's hard to tell (would need a close up that has the firing end in good focus) but it's most likely from being hit while outside of the engine. That said, it miiight be that something small hit it but usually if something is actually in the cylinder and hits the plug, you KNOW.
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Jul 8, 2022 14:55
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totalnewbie posted:If there's anything I know, it's spark plugs. But, I'm an engineer, not a mechanic. Just a word of warning. Thank you! I was pointed also to the possibility of a spun conrod bearing which would line up with the knocking and maybe a piston strike on the spark plug, what do we think there? Might be a good excuse to buy a bores cope and look for an impact. The coils are seperate. I'll check for any intake leaks.
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Jul 8, 2022 15:25
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StormDrain posted:Thank you! I was pointed also to the possibility of a spun conrod bearing which would line up with the knocking and maybe a piston strike on the spark plug, what do we think there? Might be a good excuse to buy a bores cope and look for an impact. I cannot imagine any situation in which a piston strikes a spark plug... maybe a valve if a timing element fails but never a plug. The only thing would be if something got into the combustion space and was slammed up into the spark plug, then was exhausted out the valves. Are you really not getting a cylinder misfire code? It's been my experience that you just get those codes now and then even with a normal engine, to not have that code fire when you have THAT spark plug where the anodes or whatever they're called are physically touching tells me that it was dropped or otherwise something happened outside the car at some point. Whatever's going on I think it's safe to say there is too much unburnt fuel leaving the cylinders. I think this as the plugs look soiled and the cat converter is underperforming (from being hit with too much unburnt fuel). IMO go get copper NGK spark plug replacements and put them in just because it's cheap but I'd wonder about the following:
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Jul 8, 2022 20:52
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Bleed the brakes -> replace rusted bleeder screws -> extract sheared off bleeder screw -> remove caliper to effect extraction of screw -> remove hand brake cable attachment -> discover the adjustment screw is under the car, maybe, at some Antipodal point to your ability to access it and the works are completely rusted anyway -> Attempt to disassemble the mechanism in situ at caliper, it is also frozen with rust -> Spend an hour trying to disassemble something that was once three parts but is now one -> hack through the stainless steel extra thick brake cable, the only part of the loving system not broken and worthless -> place liberated caliper in vice, seek a drink
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Jul 8, 2022 20:54
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VelociBacon posted:I cannot imagine any situation in which a piston strikes a spark plug... maybe a valve if a timing element fails but never a plug. The only thing would be if something got into the combustion space and was slammed up into the spark plug, then was exhausted out the valves. Oh it did have a general misfire code, I think that was in the first post. It wasn't specific to that cylinder which I think is weird but perhaps the computer didn't have that kind of reporting. My pet theory now is that plug was bent a little before install and got bent bad for some magical reason. A pebble? A violent preignition? (all seems unlikely). He's gonna zip it back together, inspect the intake for cracking, and put that back on, and give it another shot. We're both leaving town tomorrow so it'll probably be waiting for a week.
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Jul 8, 2022 22:34
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StormDrain posted:Oh it did have a general misfire code, I think that was in the first post. It wasn't specific to that cylinder which I think is weird but perhaps the computer didn't have that kind of reporting. Did he at least regap that plug? Even just roughly eying it up. Sorry I missed the misfire code earlier. Violent preignition seems unlikely - if you were getting detonation the plugs would look a lot more burned and not fouled. Also the force wouldn't be such that it would bend a part of the spark plug - the ignition would be originating from the plug itself (as it is the hottest thing in that space, acting like a glow plug sorta) but either way pascal's whatever law states that the force would be applied equally on all sides of the space (not in any direction towards the plug). 
VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Jul 8, 2022 |
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Jul 8, 2022 22:53
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H110Hawk posted:Battery is probably more like $250.  I dropped $110 on a battery last fall at Napa. Walmart is even cheaper. VelociBacon posted:I cannot imagine any situation in which a piston strikes a spark plug... maybe a valve if a timing element fails but never a plug. It can happen if it's a fairly high compression engine and it wipes out a rod bearing - the piston will travel slightly further up than it normally would. You usually wind up with the piston kissing the valves too though... That said, that looks like damage during installation. Usually if the piston kisses the plug, the strap is snapped off or bent heavily to one side. Those plugs are heavily fouled; OP is it throwing an oxygen sensor code at all? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Jul 9, 2022 |
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Jul 9, 2022 03:45
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Has anyone ever tried using a headlight resurfacing kit on faded black plastic b pillar trim panels? seems like it should work in my head, but then again, I can't find anything about anyone doing it on google so it's probably a dumb idea.
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Jul 9, 2022 05:32
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runaway dog posted:Has anyone ever tried using a headlight resurfacing kit on faded black plastic b pillar trim panels? seems like it should work in my head, but then again, I can't find anything about anyone doing it on google so it's probably a dumb idea. Don’t do that. Seek out a plastic reconditioning product like Mothers Back to Black.
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Jul 9, 2022 06:06
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runaway dog posted:Has anyone ever tried using a headlight resurfacing kit on faded black plastic b pillar trim panels? seems like it should work in my head, but then again, I can't find anything about anyone doing it on google so it's probably a dumb idea. This is literally a stupid question because I could probably solve it with a wet washcloth, but I'm stuck in the hospital overnight bored out of my mind, and yesterday an old icechest was handled in the cabin of my car and everywhere it touched, it left white streaks. These are gonna wipe off?
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Jul 9, 2022 06:31
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STR posted:
My experience with physical damage to plugs while in cylinder is that the plug is usually loving deeestroyed. The fact that the GE is just slightly bent and perfectly at the CE really makes me want to say it was dropped. You can usually try to find a hit mark to confirm but it will also bend if dropped onto a soft surface that won't leave a hit mark. I now venture into more unsure territory as it depends so much on specific car and oems but often of one side throws an o2 code, fuel control is given to the remaining o2 sensor. Which means even with an o2 code, I wouldn't expect that kind of fouling to occur. But I'm pretty heavily speculating at this point. If STR or one of the other much more knowledgeable people tell me nawww then I'm preemptively ceding my position to them 
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Jul 9, 2022 13:27
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I never thought about that with the O2 sensors. I know one of my primary O2s leaves the party for a bit every time I go through a car wash or hit a good enough puddle at a high enough speed, but the car still seems to run fine until that sensor comes back (with a hangover). I need to replace it - it looks pretty lazy when I compare it to the other bank. And probably look at the wiring to it... also need to fix the driver's window... replace the tires... aim the headlights better... paint it... rebuild the transmission.... 
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Jul 9, 2022 19:20
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If water is interfering with its operation then it's only a matter of time until oxidation completely kills it.
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Jul 9, 2022 23:19
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Yeah, I'm just not sure if it's the sensor itself or the connector. Either way it needs attention. It comes back to life after anywhere from 10-30 minutes (depending how angry I am with the loud pedal). I can't do anything about it for a few weeks. Plan is to look at the connector tomorrow and see if there's water intrusion; if there is, I'll order a new pigtail and NTK sensor in a few weeks when I can afford to do so. If there isn't, well, same thing except without the car-side pigtail.
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Jul 10, 2022 01:13
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STR posted:Yeah, I'm just not sure if it's the sensor itself or the connector. Either way it needs attention. It comes back to life after anywhere from 10-30 minutes (depending how angry I am with the loud pedal). Some dielectric grease in there might help keep the water out
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Jul 10, 2022 01:52
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Good advice. I'll probably do that first if it looks like it's water getting into the plug. Most of the connectors on this car are brittle as hell from the heat, and break really easy. I've found a few that were either missing the weatherpack seal entirely, or had two in them. FWIW, it throws a "O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage" code, live data shows it pegs at 1.2V as soon as I drive over the underbody spray in a car wash. I'm not sure if the heater is shorting to the circuit (unlikely, I would think that would blow a fuse or really piss off the PCM since it's not expecting 14V) or if it's just going open circuit (more likely; every time I've had that code on cars, it's been a dead sensor, broken wire, or loose connector). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Jul 10, 2022 |
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Jul 10, 2022 02:37
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Does anyone have experience trying to fix a sloppy shifter in a 7th Gen manual civic? I tried calling a few transmission shops but they angrily told me they won't be able to get parts for a 20 year old car, and it's bugging the crap out of me.
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Jul 12, 2022 20:32
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DildenAnders posted:Does anyone have experience trying to fix a sloppy shifter in a 7th Gen manual civic? I tried calling a few transmission shops but they angrily told me they won't be able to get parts for a 20 year old car, and it's bugging the crap out of me. How old is it? You can get replacement bushings for the linkages that might help. I would imagine that's where the play is coming from. Maybe look at aftermarket for this but make sure you don't get a horrible super short shift kit.
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Jul 12, 2022 20:59
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It's a 2002, and yes I am being inundated with horrible short shifter kits, which I very much do not want.
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Jul 12, 2022 22:18
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DildenAnders posted:It's a 2002, and yes I am being inundated with horrible short shifter kits, which I very much do not want. I don't know if they do these but I've had good experiences with Whiteline bushing components (subframe, swaybar stuff).
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Jul 12, 2022 23:36
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So after all these years I now have a problem with my 2003 Subaru Impreza wagon.. my yellow check engine light started blinking and I drove it about a mile before finding a safe place to park. I talked to mechanic and he says it's most likely a misfire but to bring it in tomorrow since they're closed now. that's where I forgot to ask if it's still okay to drive it.. the shop is just over 2miles away, would I be okay driving that far?
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Jul 13, 2022 02:36
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Angry Asian posted:So after all these years I now have a problem with my 2003 Subaru Impreza wagon.. my yellow check engine light started blinking and I drove it about a mile before finding a safe place to park. I talked to mechanic and he says it's most likely a misfire but to bring it in tomorrow since they're closed now. that's where I forgot to ask if it's still okay to drive it.. the shop is just over 2miles away, would I be okay driving that far? We (and you) don't have enough information about it to say. That kind of thing sounds like a "Limp Home Mode" which can be triggered by any number of conditions in the engine, transmission, etc. If you literally didn't notice anything wrong with the car and the light came on I'd say maybe a misfire but it would have to be a repeating misfire or something. My process would be to check the oil (and transmission oil if it's auto) and if it's fine, start the car and, if it's all normal sounding and feeling, drive it to the shop just over 2 miles away.
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Jul 13, 2022 03:04
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Ah sorry, I did forget to mention that the engine was stuttering all the way and it was hard to accelerate, think id be able to limp to the shop with that going on?
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Jul 13, 2022 03:21
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Angry Asian posted:Ah sorry, I did forget to mention that the engine was stuttering all the way and it was hard to accelerate, think id be able to limp to the shop with that going on? If you're worried about it, have it towed. We can't diagnose the problem for you, it will have to be your own judgment.
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Jul 13, 2022 03:23
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Blinking CEL is misfire
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Jul 13, 2022 03:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'd mix those coolants without concern, but I also would plan on flushing it on a two-year schedule instead of the five-year schedule they advertise. Thanks. I have another issue with my radiator, however (still the 1998 Isuzu Amigo): The coolant flush seems to have causes a coolant leak somewhere on my engine. While all the hoses seem to be solid and secure, I've noticed coolant leaking slightly, drops of coolant collecting on the bottom of my engine, and other bits of coolant dripping down my engine and emulsifying. I'm assuming the coolant leak is causing the following issue. Sometimes when starting the engine, the engine does not start up smoothly or easily. Then, when idling, the idle will be at a lower RPM than normal, and the entire engine/car shakes, and the idle is much rougher than it should be. When this happens, the car can drive, but feels much less powerful than it should be, and still sounds and feels rough. After getting the RPMs up to about 2k and driving for a bit, the problem seems to 'fix' itself, and the engine will start running normally and smoothly. I've noticed this issue a few times on startup, but I've also had my Check Engine light start flashing while everything seemed normal while I was driving on the freeway. I went to an auto store to by a coolant leak sealer, and one of the employees talked me into getting a dissolvable tablet product to plug the leak(s). Specifically, they talked me out of getting the plastic bead-type additive, stating that the bead-type additive was a better and more permanent solution, but had to be run through the radiator after a flush, before refilling with coolant. I realize now that this is contrary to the very instructions on the bottle, and they probably didn't know what they were talking about. So far I've added two of the dissolvable tablets to my radiator, but the problem persists. My questions are: Does anyone recognize this problems and have any advice? Is the bead-type leak sealer the best solution to fix the leak, and is it safe to add the bead-type leak sealer to my radiator while I already have some of the tablet-type stuff in there? Thank you goons, I'm freaking out over this.
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Jul 13, 2022 04:09
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Deteriorata posted:If you're worried about it, have it towed. We can't diagnose the problem for you, it will have to be your own judgment. Yeah I think i'm just going to go this route, thanks!
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Jul 13, 2022 04:47
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I'm working out the plans for a Back to the future project car. With the goal to emulate the hover conversion. I know it's possible to have a jack built into the frame. With hydrologics I can raise and lower the wheels. Is there a functional way to do the 180⁰ camber that I can switch back and forth? What my plan is: Deploy hydrologic/ neumatic jacks. // Camber adjust to 180 /// Raise the wheels with hydrologics
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Jul 13, 2022 05:19
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joebuddah posted:I'm working out the plans for a Back to the future project car. With the goal to emulate the hover conversion. Does the car have to drive or roll on the wheels at all?
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Jul 13, 2022 05:24
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Ideally drive on non highway I was thinking about a locking pin hinge. Letting gravity pull the wheel down. Something like this NRC&XRC Heavy Duty 316SS Marine Grade Casting Hatch Hinge 2-3/4" x 2-3/4" for Boat, RV https://a.co/d/2NPQU4C
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Jul 13, 2022 05:50
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literally this big posted:Thanks. I have another issue with my radiator, however (still the 1998 Isuzu Amigo): Stop putting those tablets in and take the vehicle to a mechanic. It might be a lost cause depending on the extent of the issue, but those tablets will not fix your issue.
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Jul 13, 2022 06:02
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Help me think this one through: 2012 Mazda2, A/C still working great early in the day (when its only 90 degrees or so), but as it heats up to over 100 it stops working so well when I'm stationary. It blows coolish air when at an intersection, but not very cool. Cools down when moving along at 35 plus, but doesn't quite get icy until the next morning. Fans are working fine. So, low refrigerant? Plugged heat exchanger? ???
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Jul 13, 2022 14:20
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Regas it will always be the first port of call.
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Jul 13, 2022 16:57
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Help me think this one through: 2012 Mazda2, A/C still working great early in the day (when its only 90 degrees or so), but as it heats up to over 100 it stops working so well when I'm stationary. It blows coolish air when at an intersection, but not very cool. Cools down when moving along at 35 plus, but doesn't quite get icy until the next morning. Fans are working fine. So, low refrigerant? Plugged heat exchanger? ??? Probably the condensor is clogged with crap. I've had tons of vehicles that had the AC work great when driving, because lots of airflow over the condensor, and then it works "less good" when I'm stopped. How "less good" depended on how much crap the AC condensor was clogged with.
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Jul 13, 2022 18:31
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STR posted:
"Exact Fit" for my 2016 Prius V - $216 +tax, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT9851P?impressionRank=1  May 2020 (so peak covid scare times) the only battery that fit my car and was in stock near me was the $240+tax optima yellow. I looked up my receipt. I'm not adding core to either since I bring them the dead one.The 2013 Civic is better at $130 - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT6551R?impressionRank=1 tactlessbastard posted:This is literally a stupid question because I could probably solve it with a wet washcloth, but I'm stuck in the hospital overnight bored out of my mind, and yesterday an old icechest was handled in the cabin of my car and everywhere it touched, it left white streaks. These are gonna wipe off? Depends on if there is mechanical damage to the plastic or not. Won't know until you try. It might at least reduce them.
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Jul 13, 2022 18:59
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literally this big posted:Thanks. I have another issue with my radiator, however (still the 1998 Isuzu Amigo): Head gasket. Have a qualified mechanic check the coolant for exhaust gases to confirm. The solution will be the change the head gasket, not to drop potions into your cooling system.
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Jul 13, 2022 23:03
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