Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

sweat poteto posted:

Cogs are pretty cheap and you can get into the low 20s. I'm running 40x18 with 700x45 tires and its comfortable for <30 mile trips including a lot of grocery runs.

the area I'm in is pretty flat, I think if it was actually a bit hilly I'd consider something like that. When I would be on a decent incline or at a stop I would usually be at 40x17 on my geared bike, so 44x18 is just a bit more resistance than that (2.35 vs. 2.44)

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I got it back from the shop, 44x18 is really solid, able to go up mild inclines with some extra effort but not a ton (and also I haven't been on a bike in a while, which I'm sure is a factor). I also got a new chain, new brake pads, and for aesthetics black grips to replace the orange ones. I also had them order a black quill stem which will look nicer.

I don't actually know anything about the back rim that is black, except it is a "deep V" rim. there is no identification on it at all (probably for aesthetic reasons, maybe it's on the inside).

I'm guessing it's this one as it's all I can find. https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=5114

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Recommend a lower gear 'because it will be easier to push off' is similar to recommending a padded saddle become your rear end hurts when you first start riding. Especially when they are already using a sensible gear ratio.
Yes, it will make the first week or so easier, but then you run into other limitations and you'd been better off sucking it up, rather than now having to spend more money of buying new parts.

knifehitz
Apr 22, 2005

ys rly
Hey thread, for the past few months I’ve been working up my endurance and can actually make the 16 mile commute into Seattle, and even back! With watching my diet a bit and biking every day I dropped 15 pounds and feel way better. Wanting to try out single speed, I found this 2006 Kona Paddy Wagon for a couple hundred from a local co-op and put on a new saddle, rewrapped the handlebars, put on some ThickSlicks and most recently trying out an 18 tooth cog instead of the stock 16 (42 tooth crank). I do have quite a few hills to tangle with…. But it’s really so much more fun than the hybrid commuter bike I was using before.

But anyways, I have to take a break for a couple more weeks. 2 weeks ago I was working crouched down in my garage for a few mins. Stood up and got light headed, woke up on the floor with a concussion. I’m 43 and 6’2”, but man, just that much of a fall messed me up. My wife and kid were out of town too, so it could have been so much worse. Lets just say it seriously reinforced my wearing a helmet any time I go out and ride.

Stay safe commuters, thanks for the inspiration. Can’t wait till I can get back out, but I gotta take it easy for a while longer.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

are those handlebars humongous or is the angle just throwing me off

knifehitz
Apr 22, 2005

ys rly
Just a weird angle, normal size stock handlebars.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

knifehitz posted:

Just a weird angle, normal size stock handlebars.

Most bikes come with vastly too wide a set of bars as stock tbh. I’d be more worried about the massive riser stem, though whatever works.

I’m 6’5”, broad shouldered and I ride a 40cm bar, most road bikes seem to come with 44cm or something in L or XL sizes, which is clownish.

knifehitz
Apr 22, 2005

ys rly

wooger posted:

Most bikes come with vastly too wide a set of bars as stock tbh. I’d be more worried about the massive riser stem, though whatever works.

I’m 6’5”, broad shouldered and I ride a 40cm bar, most road bikes seem to come with 44cm or something in L or XL sizes, which is clownish.

Yeah, this is a 44 I believe, stock riser as well. I’m still figuring out my ergonomics before I start replacing more things, first road style bike and handlebars I’ve ridden. Good to know, thanks. Overall I love having something lightweight and simple, especially when carrying around transit stations, bus / train, up stairs, etc.

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL
Can someone help me understand the difference between ebikes like this: https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/fastroad-eplus-ex-45km-h

and something like this: https://www.radpowerbikes.com/products/radcity-electric-commuter-bike

from a functional level? I have become interested in an ebike for commuting to work so that im not driving my 12.5 mpg truck all over the place. I have a shower at work available but the easier the ebike makes it to get there the better. also, the less dweeby the bicycle looks, the better. ostensibly id like to also use the bike for doing longer assisted rides (i have a mtb and a gravel bike already)

Giant Metal Robot
Jun 14, 2005


Taco Defender
I'm starting to look at ebikes, and one of the major things that hit me is the different noises of the assist systems. A hub drive (like the Rad) sounds different than a mid drive (like the Giant). And of course different manufacturers sound different as well. It's worth test riding, because I can't imagine listening to the constant whirring of some systems.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
The first one you linked is a mid drive setup. The motor turns the crank in parallel with the pedals and all the power goes through the chain and gears. This setup is more efficient because of the gearing and if it's tuned right can provide both higher torque at the wheel and a higher top speed. It also has better weight distribution.The downside is that the drivetrain takes a beating and you'll need to do more maintenance on the gears and replacing sprockets and chains alot. I have a mid drive kit on one of my bikes and I like it alot.

The second one is a hub drive. It has the motor inside the rear wheel hub and the power goes straight to the axle. The upside is is dirt simple and durable. The downside is lower efficiency and likely either lower top speed or lower hill climbing ability. Also that heavy motor on the rear wheel can impact the handling badly.

The two bikes are also very different geometries and so will ride very different. It sounds like you have enough experience with bikes to have an idea how different they can feel.

You should definitely do some test rides if you can. Ebikes feel way, way different from normal bikes and there's a huge variety of them.

MeatRocket8
Aug 3, 2011

I have an older gopro ripoff that I want to put to use and mount to my mountain ebike. It doesn’t have the screw in thing on the bottom that gopro’s do. Ive only been able to find a bulky underwater mount for it.

Wondering if there’s an east DIY solution to mount it to my handlebars. I’d also would be open to attaching it to a headband if I can do it without extra bulk that would get in the way of my helmet and make me look silly.

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires

ChocNitty posted:

I have an older gopro ripoff that I want to put to use and mount to my mountain ebike. It doesn’t have the screw in thing on the bottom that gopro’s do. Ive only been able to find a bulky underwater mount for it.

Wondering if there’s an east DIY solution to mount it to my handlebars. I’d also would be open to attaching it to a headband if I can do it without extra bulk that would get in the way of my helmet and make me look silly.



I have a cheap camera like that somewhere. Besides the clear case with mount it also came with a low profile clip on frame kind of thing that had the go pro style tabs on one side and a regular tripod socket on the other. It didn't clip on super secure though. I think they really intend for you to use the clear case for any "action" use

iospace
Jan 19, 2038


So I've decided I'm getting a chain lock and leaving it downtown on one of the hefty bike racks. Any more specific recs?

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
Get one of the heavy af hardened steel kryptonite ones or use a shoestring. There really isn't an in between.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

iospace posted:

So I've decided I'm getting a chain lock and leaving it downtown on one of the hefty bike racks. Any more specific recs?

Kryptonite fuhgettaboutit or however they spell it.

Or else some similar chain marketed to motorcycle riders.

God Hole
Mar 2, 2016

iospace posted:

So I've decided I'm getting a chain lock and leaving it downtown on one of the hefty bike racks. Any more specific recs?

locks and chain links thinner than 12mm hardened steel can be snipped with large bolt cutters. chains are more resistant to angle grinders than u-locks, but nothing can really stop the boldest bike thieves

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


Don't leave a nice(-looking) bike in a bike rack, no matter what kind of locks you have.

I've seen bike racks cut apart and even completely removed, along with all the bikes on it. Dedicated thieves don't give a poo poo, they'll do whatever it takes.

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

KozmoNaut posted:

Don't leave a nice(-looking) bike in a bike rack, no matter what kind of locks you have.

I've seen bike racks cut apart and even completely removed, along with all the bikes on it. Dedicated thieves don't give a poo poo, they'll do whatever it takes.

Sadly this is the truth especially if its outside.

Don't commute/lock up a bike that you can't stand to lose. Take the necessary precautions with a not-poo poo lock and all, but at the end of the day if a thief wants it they will get it. So make fewer thieves want it that badly.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

The best lock is good insurance, but good insurance requires you to use some kind of lock.

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires
Best strategy is to have a beater bike for riding somewhere it needs to be locked and save your good bike for when you quit your job and abandon society and ride as far from other people as possible

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
Hardened lock and lock to a gas meter.

Go ahead. Take my bike.

VideoGameVet
May 14, 2005

It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion. It is by the juice of Java that pedaling acquires speed, the teeth acquire stains, stains become a warning. It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion.

KozmoNaut posted:

Don't leave a nice(-looking) bike in a bike rack, no matter what kind of locks you have.

I've seen bike racks cut apart and even completely removed, along with all the bikes on it. Dedicated thieves don't give a poo poo, they'll do whatever it takes.

Tow Truck picked up the entire bike rack at my high school in the 1970’s. Brother’s Raleigh was locked to that as well many others.

Dobbs_Head
May 8, 2008

nano nano nano

Got a flat today, my first. I thought I had prepped for it, but my wheel doesn’t have a quick release and as far as I could tell the multitool I have didn’t have a wrench for it.

Question for the thread: how should I prep for this in the future? Should I just get a better roadside toolkit? Or switch out for quick releases on the wheels? I have a folder… is that even possible?

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires

Dobbs_Head posted:

Got a flat today, my first. I thought I had prepped for it, but my wheel doesn’t have a quick release and as far as I could tell the multitool I have didn’t have a wrench for it.

Question for the thread: how should I prep for this in the future? Should I just get a better roadside toolkit? Or switch out for quick releases on the wheels? I have a folder… is that even possible?

If it has loose bearing hubs you can swap the solid axle for a hollow quick release axle. You just need to make sure you figure out the axle diameter and thread and the hub spacing. Somebody else will have to know if this works the same for cartridge bearings hubs, i haven't swapped any of those before.

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

Guessing it has 15mm axle bolts then - you can always just add a 15mm box wrench to your kit!

There are a couple tools designed for this with other features as well, often sold as single speed/fixie tools:

https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/single-speed-spanner-ss-15

https://pedros.com/products/trixie

https://surlybikes.com/parts/jethro_tule

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires

Man_of_Teflon posted:

Guessing it has 15mm axle bolts then - you can always just add a 15mm box wrench to your kit!

There are a couple tools designed for this with other features as well, often sold as single speed/fixie tools:

https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/single-speed-spanner-ss-15

https://pedros.com/products/trixie

https://surlybikes.com/parts/jethro_tule

Don't forget the runwell one. It's best because it comes in gold https://velo-orange.com/products/15mm-to-go-wrench?variant=40697642418351

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
It's a Brompton (that I sold to op) with I'm pretty sure 15mm nuts. Though I've never thought too hard about it, assuming the Marathons on there would be insurance enough.

road potato
Dec 19, 2005
I'm looking to get a commuter bike that I can also then turn to a fat tire bike for winter riding - maybe some winter commuting when the snow isn't so bad, but in the colder months I can take it out on the snowmobile trails for a spin to still be able to ride. Surly is the obvious choice for this- I know some people who have a two-wheel setup - one for summer, one for winter. They've mostly gone the crosscheck, but there is a Puglsey and a Wednesday (built to be fat tire bikes, outfitted with fat tires right now) up for sale right now where I am.

How big of an investment and how much mechanical skill would I need to outfit it with new wheels/tires, and shelf the fat tires until the Minnesota winter kicks in in November?

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

disc brakes make for pretty easy swaps. I imagine you'd be able to get another wheelset and tires for something like $300-500 maybe? or do those use weird axle standards?

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Man_of_Teflon posted:

disc brakes make for pretty easy swaps. I imagine you'd be able to get another wheelset and tires for something like $300-500 maybe? or do those use weird axle standards?

It's Surly, what does your heart tell you?

Fortunately you can just get Surly hubs or some other weird replacement from QBP.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

kimbo305 posted:

It's a Brompton (that I sold to op) with I'm pretty sure 15mm nuts. Though I've never thought too hard about it, assuming the Marathons on there would be insurance enough.

I would just carry a 15mm wrench. Swapping the front to QR takes a new hub (non-standard dimensions).
Swapping the rear is either impossible or prohibitively expensive.

Dobbs_Head
May 8, 2008

nano nano nano

Yeah, I just grabbed a 15 mm and 10 mm wrench and added them to the kit (10 mm for the brake pad system).

As far as I could tell, there were no punctures in the tire and nothing stuck in. The rubber on the inner tube was in rough shape generally. There was a hole, so something probably poked it. But I’m not ruling out the tube just failing from age.

Getting the valve stem through the hole was a pain in the rear end. There is a strip of protective plastic that really wanted to climb down the hole with the stem.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Dobbs_Head posted:

Yeah, I just grabbed a 15 mm and 10 mm wrench and added them to the kit (10 mm for the brake pad system).

As far as I could tell, there were no punctures in the tire and nothing stuck in. The rubber on the inner tube was in rough shape generally. There was a hole, so something probably poked it. But I’m not ruling out the tube just failing from age.

Getting the valve stem through the hole was a pain in the rear end. There is a strip of protective plastic that really wanted to climb down the hole with the stem.

If the rim strip is plastic, the puncture could've been from burrs on the rim, not road debris puncturing the tire. Replacing those with a cloth one can help a lot.

A good best practice is to find the puncture, and then check on the wheel and tire for whatever may have caused it - I've gotten surprised by very tiny wires stuck in the tire that I only noticed when flexing it or prodding with a probe.

iospace
Jan 19, 2038


God Hole posted:

locks and chain links thinner than 12mm hardened steel can be snipped with large bolt cutters. chains are more resistant to angle grinders than u-locks, but nothing can really stop the boldest bike thieves



Done

VideoGameVet
May 14, 2005

It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion. It is by the juice of Java that pedaling acquires speed, the teeth acquire stains, stains become a warning. It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion.

kimbo305 posted:

It's a Brompton (that I sold to op) with I'm pretty sure 15mm nuts. Though I've never thought too hard about it, assuming the Marathons on there would be insurance enough.

Pretty much. I’ve had mine since 2013 and the only flats I got was overheating the rear wheel and blowing out a tube on a long/steep descent (I was about 225 lbs at the time) and once on the front from a staple in the road.

Oh get the Brompton toolkit that fits in the frame. It works well.

Dobbs_Head
May 8, 2008

nano nano nano

bicievino posted:

If the rim strip is plastic, the puncture could've been from burrs on the rim, not road debris puncturing the tire. Replacing those with a cloth one can help a lot.

A good best practice is to find the puncture, and then check on the wheel and tire for whatever may have caused it - I've gotten surprised by very tiny wires stuck in the tire that I only noticed when flexing it or prodding with a probe.

The puncture was well away from the rim pointed at the tire wall. I spent 5 - 10 minutes flexing the tire looking for debris or a hole, but came up empty.

Decided to buy spare tires too. The treads on the marathons that I have are ok, but I’m seeing what looks like rubber degradation on the rim bead.

Ugh, I wish I’d seen that Brompton toolkit that fits in the frame earlier. That looks really nice! I’ll need to check if it fits in the 2009 model I have.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

road potato posted:

I'm looking to get a commuter bike that I can also then turn to a fat tire bike for winter riding

You are doing the bike equivalent of buying a 5000lb 4x4 off road capable pickup truck for your short city commute because you need to “haul lumber” or something once every 3 years.

Buy a reasonable and sane commuter bike with fenders and hardwearing 35c tyres.

If you really want a fatbike for snow, buy one then, but a commuter bike with studded tyres added will be 1000x more capable for any practical use in bad weather on the road.

Phosphine
May 30, 2011

WHY, JUDY?! WHY?!
🤰🐰🆚🥪🦊
For reference, I commute on a cyclo-cross bike with I think 37 winter tires, in pretty intense winters, and it's mostly fine. Sometimes when it's near zero so it melts and then yesterday's tracks freeze it gets sketchy, but generally it's fine. The stability win from wider tires (I've winter-commuted on mtb to alleviate this problem) is not worth how much more work it is. I just ride slower for the bad parts and still arrive faster than on the mtb.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

agreed, skinnier tires can slice through snow and slush much easier, and then the studs keep a grip on any hidden ice.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply