|
Angry Asian posted:Ah sorry, I did forget to mention that the engine was stuttering all the way and it was hard to accelerate, think id be able to limp to the shop with that going on? That year should have 2 coils - each one fires two cylinders. If it was really hard to accelerate, a coil probably crapped out, which would drop it to 2 cylinders. It should still be able to accelerate if it was missing on one cylinder (which would be a spark plug or plug wire most likely), but significantly slower. It would barely be able to reach highway speeds. None of these are ideal, particularly for the oxygen sensors and catalytic converter (this is why the CEL starts flashing during a misfire - catalytic converters aren't cheap)
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2022 02:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 01:13 |
|
|
I've been bothered by something lately and I was wondering if this was a type of scam and if it has a name: So a couple years ago when I went to the Honda dealership, I was looking at a civic selling at MSRP (or sliiighly below, I don't exactly remember) and the salesman let me test drive the *exact* car I was looking to buy. When it was turned on, there was some message about a VSP chip notice or something and the salesman waved it away and the test drive was perfectly fine. I fill out the paperwork and everything and all I had to do was come back in a few hours to sign one final thing and drive the car off the lot. I come back after a couple hours and the salesman regrettably informs me that they found some problems in the car I wanted during the final inspection and they needed to take a look at it. But instead, I could test drive another civic and buy that one instead (for the same price). I'd have to come in the next day while they get it ready... I test drive that car and everything's fine as well. Bottom line is that I buy a honda civic at the advertised price. I noticed that this one has some scuffs on the rear bumper that I missed at the dealership and that the panel gaps on the trunk are ridiculous--like 1/2" on one side and 1/8" on the other (i.e. this car must have been damaged during transport and they repaired it). There's also a spot on the front where the clearcoat is dull. They said it was shipped to them yesterday all the way from Illinois or something and I assume it was probably sitting on the lot a long time if they went through the trouble of doing that. Is this a scam? Was all this hocus pocus done just to get me to take the (seemingly functional) civic that got scuffed and repaired that nobody wanted? Or was there some other funny business the dealership was doing that I didn't notice?
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2022 02:41
|
|
|
1997 Ford Ranger with the 2.3. Will crank, but not start. with key on, fuel pump relay buzzes with key on there is some pressure at the fuel will start on starting fluid, then die replaced fuel pump relay - still buzzes, still no start was thinking of replacing the fuel pump, but was wondering if there was something to try before draining and dropping the tank. joat mon fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Jul 15, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2022 18:04
|
|
|
Cory Parsnipson posted:I've been bothered by something lately and I was wondering if this was a type of scam and if it has a name: That’s a clever idea if it’s a scam, but I doubt it is. Quality issues with new cars seem to be rampant. Also, most people probably wouldn’t notice minor damage and thus I don’t think the dealer would give enough of a gently caress to try to do something so convoluted.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2022 18:16
|
|
|
joat mon posted:1997 Ford Ranger with the 2.3. I know this is probably not particularly helpful as it's not answering your question but I once replaced a fuel pump in a similar vintage mazda b-series but instead of dropping the tank I took the bed off 
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2022 18:20
|
|
|
joat mon posted:1997 Ford Ranger with the 2.3. If you can get to it easily connect 12v directly to the fuel pump to test the issue isn't between the relay and the pump. If no pump buzz with 12v replace the fuel pump. You might have to settle with "close enough" and apply power to the wires running to the pump.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2022 18:20
|
|
|
RIP Paul Walker posted:That’s a clever idea if it’s a scam, but I doubt it is. Quality issues with new cars seem to be rampant. Ok that's good to know. I'm probably just overthinking it. Everything is so crazy right now I'm just happy that it's working fine. Knock on wood... Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2022 19:02
|
|
|
Don’t drop a tank on a ranger to do the fuel pump. Removing the bed is pretty easy.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2022 19:37
|
|
|
That's how I did it on my f150 and even with the larger bed the hardest part was still getting those carriage bolts off.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2022 19:41
|
|
|
joat mon posted:1997 Ford Ranger with the 2.3. I would replace the fuel filter first if you know it hasn't been done recently. A pump might be totally fine but a gummed up filter would give you no pressure downstream at the injectors. Sorry if someone said this already but I didn't see it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2022 21:10
|
|
|
joat mon posted:1997 Ford Ranger with the 2.3. Turn the key on so you hear the pump prime. Turn it off and do it again. Then again, and maybe one more time for good luck. If it starts after 3 or 4 it could be the check valve at the fuel pump, basically it’s letting the fuel drain out of the hose when you turn the car off. I just had mine replaced along with a new fuel pump because if you’re already pulling the fuel pump to redo the valve you might as well do the pump too.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2022 02:09
|
|
|
RIP Paul Walker posted:That’s a clever idea if it’s a scam, but I doubt it is. Quality issues with new cars seem to be rampant. I know at least at the factory I'm at, they said something like 80% of the cars leaving the assembly line need paint correction and sometimes PDR - just from people's belts, watches, badge, tools, etc hitting the cars as they're assembling them. We're supposed to wear watch and belt covers to help prevent a lot of that, but I've been bugging them for those since I started. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2022 19:49
|
|
|
STR posted:I know at least at the factory I'm at, they said something like 80% of the cars leaving the assembly line need paint correction and sometimes PDR - just from people's belts, watches, badge, tools, etc hitting the cars as they're assembling them. 100% of Ferraris leave the factory requiring paint correction
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2022 20:27
|
|
|
To be fair, I'd guess 100% of Teslas do too - the orange peel is something else. But they're not worried about the orange peel (and that's something that requires a bit more than just paint correction anyway).
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2022 00:22
|
|
|
STR posted:To be fair, I'd guess 100% of Teslas do too - the orange peel is something else. But they're not worried about the orange peel (and that's something that requires a bit more than just paint correction anyway). I'd actually love to see the numbers about how many people driving Teslas are leasing them vs owning them. I think it would be a much higher lease rate than most other vehicles.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2022 01:25
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:I'd actually love to see the numbers about how many people driving Teslas are leasing them vs owning them. I think it would be a much higher lease rate than most other vehicles. I don't think that's right. Guessing the reason why German makes have higher lease take rates vs. purchasing is due almost exclusively to the advantageous depreciated value, money factor, and other magic numbers in the lease calculation. I could be wrong though. Seems like Tesla's lease rates are not very competitive vs. other makes since they are not incentivizing you to lease, but the German makes are.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2022 01:45
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:I'd actually love to see the numbers about how many people driving Teslas are leasing them vs owning them. I think it would be a much higher lease rate than most other vehicles. They didn't offer leases until recently, it was purchase only. Their lease terms are the worst in the industry, and there's no finance guy there telling you to lease instead of buy. I'd be shocked if they had a high lease rate.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2022 01:57
|
|
|
Oh huh there you go. Anyone I work with with a Tesla leases it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2022 01:59
|
|
|
I think any lease on an EV is a downside risk for the manufacturer, so they build in some cushion for the risk with expensive depreciation and money factors. I think it's an unspoken truth that while in practice EV depreciation has been roughly in line with gas ICE vehicles, we may start to see Moore's Law esque advances in EV technology. This would hasten depreciation of any EVs on an older version of the tech. It probably won't be an ultra dramatic shift in the status quo, but charging times may quickly decrease, weight may come down significantly, some new charging standard is released which is adopted by gas stations and does not have backwards compatibility, etc.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2022 02:11
|
|
|
can drive by wire systems cause issues like dying at idle once the car's warmed up? it looks like it's all just one unit that sits on the throttle body instead of being able to service the TPS or IAC individually. do these modules that sit on top of the TB fail as often as an IAC motor would?
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2022 05:10
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:I think any lease on an EV is a downside risk for the manufacturer, so they build in some cushion for the risk with expensive depreciation and money factors. I think it's an unspoken truth that while in practice EV depreciation has been roughly in line with gas ICE vehicles, we may start to see Moore's Law esque advances in EV technology. This would hasten depreciation of any EVs on an older version of the tech. It probably won't be an ultra dramatic shift in the status quo, but charging times may quickly decrease, weight may come down significantly, some new charging standard is released which is adopted by gas stations and does not have backwards compatibility, etc. Not likely. The advancements made in cpus at Moore's law pace has been due to improvements in manufacturing being able to drive down transistor size. Now, sizes are starting to get into quantum tunneling being real potential issues so I'm not sure just how long Moore's law will hold. But given other avenues of improvements like from chip design itself, I'm guessing it might hold on longer than I might otherwise expect. For batteries though, the problems you're looking at aren't manufacturing but material based. Energy densities in current Li-ion batteries can't improve much so you're starting to look for other cathode and anode materials. In addition, you really also want to find some sort of electrolyte material that has less risk of fire with damage, which is difficult because you also need high discharge rates. So fundamentally, the challenges facing batteries are very different from the challenges that were in the chip fab industry.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2022 16:37
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:I'd actually love to see the numbers about how many people driving Teslas are leasing them vs owning them. I think it would be a much higher lease rate than most other vehicles. They hold their value incredibly well - too well, really. Used ones are selling for more than new ones right now, and even Tesla is trying to buy used ones back at drat close to what they sold for new. They have a 2 month to a year wait from the time you order until delivery (depending on model and options - I think the Y with FSD is the fastest to deliver right now), whereas if you go used, you can have one this week. The Bolt and Leaf don't hold their values nearly as well, same with the Mitsubishi EV (do they even make it anymore?). I'd be tempted to get a Bolt once they get the battery recalls taken care of, it's the right mix of affordability and range. Or a Volt, at least that way I wouldn't get much range anxiety. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Jul 17, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2022 18:57
|
|
|
I'm always surprised when I hear people mention leasing cars, it's just something I've never considered Looks like in 2018 leases were 3% of Tesla deliveries, 9% in 2019 and then dropped down to 7% in 2021 Probably the lions share of those leases are business lease things One of the big selling points of a Tesla is the probable lower total cost of ownership, and basically zero maintenance, no oil or coolant changes, brakes last the lifetime of the car, drivetrain has a service life of > 300,000 miles. Most people I know are buying them as a transportation investment,, because they hate wasting time getting their car serviced, not as a status symbol
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2022 22:40
|
|
|
So, I'm an idiot and went through one of those touchless car washes and chose the "hot wax" option. Now there's a bunch of bubbles of cold wax on my windshield that is annoying in certain light conditions that I can't just spray off with a garden hose/squeeze/etc. Is there an easy way to fix this that won't damage my windshield or take forever (even if it's something as simple as 409)?
diadem fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Jul 17, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2022 22:41
|
|
|
Took the Fiat on a 6k mile trip. Had one issue twice, which is that the skid plate came loose. Got it replaced, 4k miles later it came loose again. Think maybe I'm looking at a stripped screw hole, will ask about it. Thanks for the help though, it was reassuring to be able to tell myself "Goons said it's fine." halfway up a mountain in the woods.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2022 22:51
|
|
|
I suspect those lease numbers to be quite different in Europe, where, depending on the country, luxury taxes and VAT makes buying new cars prohibitively expensive. Most people have either second hand cars, or they drive lease cars provided by their employers. Only rich folk buy new cars. Add to that that there are tax breaks and subsidies on electric vehicles, and the model 3 was the only real game in town for a good while in the mid-market commuter segment, before the Mach-E, Hyundai Kona, Polestar, etc came out. I suspect they were leasing out a bunch of them.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2022 23:19
|
|
|
2006 Ford Taurus with the 3.0 Vulcan v6 I put a new alternator on this car two weeks ago because it got progressively worse at starting and eventually absolutely would not start, even with a jump. Put the new alternator on, get the completely dead battery recharged at an Auto Zone, and the car was fine...for the last two weeks. Now, my girlfriend reports the car has once again had a couple of instances of not starting well. Checking the battery with a multimeter, it reads 12.59 at rest, but only goes up to 14.00 while running. Soooo, the alternator is not fully/properly charging the battery? Or could the fully drained battery have developed higher, uh, resistance? Could the terminals be the issue, maybe I could clean them? They don't look heavily corroded to me.. She could put it in a shop, and honestly my tolerance for loving with cars is very low these days, but I'll probably at least clean and lube the terminals if that seems like a possible issue; I suppose I'd know as soon as I checked it later.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 00:01
|
|
|
Sounds like dirty terminals or a corroded battery cable.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 00:27
|
|
|
Jack B Nimble posted:2006 Ford Taurus with the 3.0 Vulcan v6 How old is the battery? Do you think the grounding straps/cables are all intact and working (ie is the car experiencing a lot of rust generally)? If you get your gf to rev the car while you check that voltage, does it go up or does it not get higher than 14v?
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 00:28
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:One of the big selling points of a Tesla is the probable lower total cost of ownership, and basically zero maintenance, no oil or coolant changes, brakes last the lifetime of the car, drivetrain has a service life of > 300,000 miles. Most people I know are buying them as a transportation investment,, because they hate wasting time getting their car serviced, not as a status symbol Believe it or not, the drive unit does have an oil filter, at least on the Model 3 and Model Y. Up until they added that filter, the drive unit(s) did need oil changes, but it was something like every 100k (and not really in any service manuals - it was just something you did if you knew about it and planned to keep the car a long time). Also, apparently the original drive unit is good for a long time, but the replacements haven't been as good for this guy (he's been through 8 on his journey to 1M miles). Guessing he was getting reman units (something that AFAIK is done in-house). Jack B Nimble posted:Checking the battery with a multimeter, it reads 12.59 at rest, but only goes up to 14.00 while running. Soooo, the alternator is not fully/properly charging the battery? Or could the fully drained battery have developed higher, uh, resistance? Could the terminals be the issue, maybe I could clean them? They don't look heavily corroded to me.. You need to put the battery on a proper load tester (not the tiny ones most stores use; the beefy ones where you haul the battery inside, or the big chonky ones on wheels they drag outside). 13.2-14.5 volts is what you want to see with it running - 14.0 is fine. 12.6 is a healthy battery, but it may be dropping really low under load. An easy way to test it is to turn on the ignition (but don't start the car), turn the rear defroster on, turn on the headlights (high beams), and crank the AC fan up to high. See how low it drops. It shouldn't get much below 12. If it's much below 12, your battery is done. If it's not, your starter may be going. If possible, check voltage while cranking too. If it drops below 10, your battery OR starter are done. FWIW, my 2007 Ford, with a ~9 month old OEM Motorcraft alternator and a new battery, sits right at 14V while running. I believe the PCM tries to command 13.8-14.2 from the voltage regulator. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Jul 18, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 01:25
|
|
|
diadem posted:So, I'm an idiot and went through one of those touchless car washes and chose the "hot wax" option. Now there's a bunch of bubbles of cold wax on my windshield that is annoying in certain light conditions that I can't just spray off with a garden hose/squeeze/etc. Is there an easy way to fix this that won't damage my windshield or take forever (even if it's something as simple as 409)? Glass is extremely hard to hurt chemically. Brake clean, acetone, alcohol etc should all work fine. Just keep it off the paint. Wet the rag or paper towels and then rub the glass. This will gently caress up tint so exterior use only. If that doesn't work use a razor blade.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 01:26
|
|
|
diadem posted:So, I'm an idiot and went through one of those touchless car washes and chose the "hot wax" option. Now there's a bunch of bubbles of cold wax on my windshield that is annoying in certain light conditions that I can't just spray off with a garden hose/squeeze/etc. Is there an easy way to fix this that won't damage my windshield or take forever (even if it's something as simple as 409)? Start with just regular dish soap. Warm water and Dawn. poo poo's built to cut grease.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 01:51
|
|
|
The car has basically no rust, we're in the South. The terminals looked clean before I just cleaned them. The cables don't seem to be corroded, they're all clad in rubber but the ends are clean? When the battery was declared good, it was after I'd left it at a shop for a charge, though I suppose it is true that the only declared it go after testing it with a hand tester. Still, it's a steady 12.6 when not running and 14.00 when running, and if some people are saying those numbers are actually OK, then maybe it's nothing. I only have my GFs description of the difficulty it had starting, it may not be the issue. I didn't think to have her rev it and see if the reading goes up even further, I'll have her do that tomorrow morning, thanks all.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 04:22
|
|
|
I have 3 cars with various stages of headlights yellowing and fogging so I thought I'd give restoring it a shot this summer. Seems like the best process is sanding, polishing, then clear coat w/ hardener, so I wanted to do it myself without buying any kits since I'd need 3 of them. I've seen that type of clear coat in a store, it's like $20 for a can and there's a... thing on the bottom you press to mix it. So, the stupid question is, is this a one-shot deal? How long would I have to use it after mixing it? Or are there paints where the hardener is in a separate can or something? The problem is that I can't get 3 cars in one place at the same time (without spending hours riding a bus back and forth) 
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 10:22
|
|
|
Is there a good resource out there - books, ideally, or website - I'm of the generation before youtube and really can't deal with most youtube "productions" - just to understand the basics of car electrical systems? Starting at the absolute bottom, I understand positive and negative terminals etc but that's it. Watching someone tap the chassis with a voltmeter to find out where it was grounded (?) was essentially wizardry to me so that's the level I'm at. I am half(?) way through restoring my DeLorean which obviously is not the happiest place on earth in terms of electricals to start with, but it's also clearly been hosed with by POs, so something that helps me work out what I'm looking at / diagnose problems / feel like I could remove things without lying awake at night and worrying about fire would be awesome. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 11:22
|
|
|
You can buy old automotive text books on eBay for just a few bucks; I bought one printed in the early 90s a decade or two ago for less than $20 shipped, so you could probably do the same with one from the 2000s now. Edit: look this is from 2014 and is super cheap https://www.abebooks.com/9781133612315/Automotive-Technology-Systems-Approach-Erjavec-1133612318/plp Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 12:09 on Jul 18, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 12:06
|
|
|
echoplex posted:Is there a good resource out there - books, ideally, or website - I'm of the generation before youtube and really can't deal with most youtube "productions" - just to understand the basics of car electrical systems? I like this website: https://www.aa1car.com/library/automotive_electrical_circuits.htm I'm not great with electrical systems either, but The Haynes Automotive Electrical Manual and Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems have both been pretty good reads. For your specific situation, I would do some light reading from these other resources and then start looking for wiring diagrams and seeing what kind of DIY resources are out there for DeLoreans specifically. Theoretical knowledge is good to have, but that alone will only get you so far.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 14:07
|
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:I have 3 cars with various stages of headlights yellowing and fogging so I thought I'd give restoring it a shot this summer. Seems like the best process is sanding, polishing, then clear coat w/ hardener, so I wanted to do it myself without buying any kits since I'd need 3 of them. Catalyzed paints like the spray can you're talking about are only good for a matter of tens of minutes to an hour or so depending on the formulation and amount of hardener. Spraying clear on headlights sounds like a huge hassle that will require a ton of time to carfeully mask everything unless you're pulling all the lights out and doing them on a bench. Just buy 3 Cerakote kits if you want this to actually work without ton of extra effort and to last more than a couple of years. There's really no need to do much of anything else for just 3 vehicles considering these kits are like $17 each and pretty much the gold standard at this point.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 14:33
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Catalyzed paints like the spray can you're talking about are only good for a matter of tens of minutes to an hour or so depending on the formulation and amount of hardener. Spraying clear on headlights sounds like a huge hassle that will require a ton of time to carfeully mask everything unless you're pulling all the lights out and doing them on a bench.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 14:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 01:13 |
|
|
The higher end kits do come with a clear coat, though it's not a 2 part one like what you're thinking of. It's something though! You can usually get a few years between polishing sessions if you use the clear. If you're super cheap, go to Harbor Freight and get 3 kits, and grab one of these from Amazon or Walmart.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 16:10
|
|