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Replaced the windshield corner trim pieces on the S60R with new OEM volvo. Also knocked the dirt out of the cabin filter. I would have replaced it but I ordered a 1.5” thick filter and apparently my car hsss the 1”. Oh well.
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Jul 12, 2022 00:10
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| # ? May 15, 2024 01:25 |
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Excuse the filthy car. The 5mm spacers shim-style for my wheels arrived. I put them on, and I still have a conflict between the wheel spokes and the brake caliper. So I doubled up the spacers. That gave me clearance, but the studs weren't long enough. So I dug out some 15mm hubcentric spacers I had from a previous set of wheels on this car. These are the type that bolt onto the hub and then have their own studs for mounting the wheel. That gave me plenty of brake clearance of course, but the car's studs stuck through the spacers enough that the wheel wasn't laying flat on mounting surface of the spacer. So I put the 5mm shim spacer on top of the 15mm spacer. I could mount the wheel, but there wasn't much thread engagement. So I took all the spacers off and put the shim spacer on first, then the spacer with its own lugs. Everything worked just fine that way. I lowered the car and went around the neighborhood, concentrating on going around the roundabout and the speed bump and listening for rubbing. And there was none!  I put the back wheels on, and they "fit" but the offset is not right at all, especially compared with how the fronts ended up. The back is also going to need to be brought down a little bit. I had to adjust the coilovers up pretty far to make room for the previous set of wheels.  So with this test work done (for now at least), a set of four 20mm spacers is on the way and hopefully the car will be sitting right in a couple of days. They were even on Prime Day sale. No, I don't plan on driving the car around with doubled-up spacers on the front wheels.
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Jul 13, 2022 15:06
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https://imgur.com/XLPLYhI Did my rear lower control arms which had no bushing left on either side. Left was cake and took no time. The right side must have hit something hard as everything was bent as all heck. After hammering the poo poo out of the frame and the control arm in to get everything aligned, I realized im a terrible mechanic and totally scratched up my new arm. Thankfully its ebay so not too expensive, But im gonna sand the scratches down and hopefully no one will be able to see them! It was so hot and I threw up at one point(mostly medicine related) that I didn't even notice I was making such a mess hammering on the arm. Fl heat sucks.  How to I embed mp4? I thought it was just [ img ] hmmm Fallows fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Jul 13, 2022 |
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Jul 13, 2022 22:11
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At least the bushings weren't seized onto the bolt  (New England cars whaddup)
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Jul 14, 2022 02:26
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Yeah, isn't having to cut a leaf spring or control arm off of the bushing, then cut the outer sleeve off the bushing rubber, then the bushing rubber off the inner sleeve, then cut the inner sleeve off of the bolt and go and buy a new bolt great? I had to do that on several bolts on my truck.
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Jul 14, 2022 03:09
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Now you know why I bought that plasma cutter, just burn the fuckers out.
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Jul 14, 2022 03:20
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Fallows posted:https://imgur.com/XLPLYhI url tags, around the actual mp4, like this: https://i.imgur.com/XLPLYhI.mp4 that looks, uh, bad, lol
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Jul 14, 2022 04:27
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Mmm. Thick and drippy. Axle seal had lost a little flexibility  Brake shoes aren't supposed to look like that   Hopefully braking will be much improved. 
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Jul 14, 2022 05:36
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BigPaddy posted:Now you know why I bought that plasma cutter, just burn the fuckers out. Yeah that thing kicked rear end, I need to pick one up eventually.
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Jul 14, 2022 08:01
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On the subject of seized-to-gently caress bolts, does anyone here have a Bernzomatic propane/oxygen setup? I just found out they make little bottles of oxygen you can pair with propane or MAPP and I've been considering it e: remembered this image 
Panty Saluter fucked around with this message at 13:45 on Jul 14, 2022 |
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Jul 14, 2022 13:38
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EvilBeard posted:Same. Looks identical to the Harbor Freight $18 gun. Wonder if the tips fit? NVM - the don't sell the tips/needles separately. In fact, they don't seem to sell any parts at all. Fallows posted:How to I embed mp4? I thought it was just [ img ] hmmm code:You do have to make sure to use "original size". If you add the size tag it displays as a still image. e: f,b. Panty Saluter posted:On the subject of seized-to-gently caress bolts, does anyone here have a Bernzomatic propane/oxygen setup? I just found out they make little bottles of oxygen you can pair with propane or MAPP and I've been considering it The MAPP/Oxy works fine, but the O2 runs our FAST. There's a reason the O2 bottle is usually at least twice the size of the acetylene bottle in a standard welding rig. quote:e: remembered this image I have that printed out and hung in my garage.
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Jul 14, 2022 17:34
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I replaced the idle air control valve on the ranger. For the past couple of days it’s been wanting to stall out when I take it out of gear, and then yesterday it started revving a bit when I put it in neutral. After consulting the internet it seemed that was the likely culprit. I had to hit 2 different autozones, one for the valve, one for the gasket, because of course they didn’t have them in stock in the same store. Side note, the valve came with the gasket anyway it just didn’t say anything about that online. Anyway it was an easy swap and seems to have fixed the issue.
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Jul 14, 2022 22:22
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Darchangel posted:Looks identical to the Harbor Freight $18 gun. Wonder if the tips fit? I cracked one open the other day and played around with it. We converted it to be our sprayout gun for color matching, because my tech took his sata home to do a job. It felt pretty good in the hand, and to me, felt a little better than the Harbor Freight gun (I've used that one at home to slap primer and adhesive on things).
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Jul 15, 2022 00:42
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Jesus Christ, I can't get anything to go correctly on this car. I got the bigger spacers to fit the RX-8 wheels to my SC400. The front wheels are exactly where I want them. Unfortunately when I use the spacers on the rear wheels the car's wheel studs poke through the spacers enough that the wheel can't sit flush on the spacers. Add a 5mm spacer between the hub and the spacer, problem solved. So now I'm ordering some 25mm spacers for the back rather than the 20mm units I just received and put on the front wheels. I also had to adjust the coilovers down a little in the back. They were cranked up pretty high because the bigger tires on the previous set of wheels weren't happy unless the rear end was up pretty close to the maximum height of the coilovers. Car is crazy dirty.  I have barely driven this car for the last five years. It was a super duper pain in rear end to get my daughter in and out of the back seat, but she is finally old and big enough that she can ride in a booster seat and more or less get her own seatbelt on. I kind of wish I had a booster seat to keep my skin away from that hot black leather. Youch! Things that need attention: The driver's side front coilover should probably come up just a little bit. The front end is level, but the driver's side gets a little tire rub in hard right turns. Me being fat seems like the likely cause. The AC leaks pretty bad. The last time I added refrigerant the AC only worked for a few days. I have a can of pre-dyed refrigerant, a UV light, and some yellow glasses. I replaced the compressor with a used unit many years ago, so my suspicion lies there. The windshield somehow developed a big crack across it that has also manifested kind of a funhouse mirror effect. The previous owner had resprayed the front end with base/clear because of rock chips. The clear on the hood has failed. Maybe repaint, maybe do something silly with vinyl. My mind keeps going back to some kind of almost-black woodgrain or black camo pattern vinyl. Far future: manual swap (Nissan transmissions seem to be the most sensible route) or LS swap. An LS swap along with an automatic transmission with lots of gears seems really appealing. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Jul 15, 2022 |
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Jul 15, 2022 17:59
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PBCrunch posted:Unfortunately when I use the spacers on the rear wheels the car's wheel studs poke through the spacers enough that the wheel can't sit flush on the spacers. Add a 5mm spacer between the hub and the spacer, problem solved. So now I'm ordering some 25mm spacers for the back rather than the 20mm units I just received and put on the front wheels. I had this issue when I put C6 wheels on my C5 and was able to just cut off the ends of the studs with an angle grinder as they weren't threaded that far. You can see them poking out here before I cut them. 
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Jul 15, 2022 19:42
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opengl128 posted:I had this issue when I put C6 wheels on my C5 and was able to just cut off the ends of the studs with an angle grinder as they weren't threaded that far. You can see them poking out here before I cut them. I've put spacers on with a bunch of different wheels and I've never seen an alloy wheel with as little clearance as these RX-8 wheels.
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Jul 15, 2022 22:29
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Raluek posted:url tags, around the actual mp4, like this: Ty sir! And the other guy who explained it too!
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Jul 15, 2022 23:22
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Battery started taking a poo poo Monday. Had to get a jump leaving work today, which has been par for the course since Monday evening. Since it started making GBS threads, it's still been able to start so long as it doesn't sit more than a few hours (though just barely). Today, 30 minutes inside Walmart was enough that I didn't even get dash lights, except for the airbag warning light. Couldn't even get a full revolution out of the starter. It was also after the auto center had closed, and I had no tools on me. I was expecting it to be able to start on the dying battery, but it had other plans. I don't think this is the recommended way to jump start a vehicle, but it worked.  But I had tools at home.  Starts easily now. Couldn't really do a better battery since past due bills took pretty much my entire paycheck.  But if I get a year out of a $59 battery, I'm happy.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Jul 16, 2022 |
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Jul 16, 2022 04:04
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Of course, the Matrix dropped one of the heat shields. It has 4 bolts - 3 up front that go through plastic inserts, 1 in the back that goes into a metal nut in a plastic bracket, which snaps into the gas tank. Made one hell of a racket, as heat shields tend to do when they're resting on the exhaust. Everything I could find online was about the heat shields rusting out around the bolts (Toyotanation forums people think it's galvanic corrosion). That wasn't what happened here. The heat shield looks pretty much new. The bracket looked new once I got the bolt out of the heat shield. But the plastic tabs it snaps into on the plastic gas tank broke off.  Luckily, it hugs the gas tank strap. Zip ties to the rescue. I know I'll have to revisit this, particularly since I just used a couple of zip ties I found on the garage floor (I would have preferred a thicker one in the middle). Had to bench press the (full) gas tank up slightly to get a zip tie around the strap. But the heat shield is back in place.  I was fully expecting to break at least one bolt, but everything came apart with hand tools, no penetrating oil. I'm sure I'd need penetrating oil if I dropped the exhaust, but I was able to bend the shield enough to get access to the tank. This thing is stupid clean for a 2005..
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Jul 17, 2022 00:13
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I've been seeing insane oil temps (maxing out a 140c sensor) and some oil pressure weirdness (big fluctuations) with the K24 BRZ since I got it put together. At first I figured it was because of no oil cooler, then I thought it was the sensor calibration or the sensor. Finally getting somewhere. Playing with the DBW throttle with the car off moves the temp a lot. Time to figure out what I need to do to fix this garbage. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWq5JqXJHFY
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Jul 17, 2022 00:33
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I would try a sensor with a gauge that is know to match it just to be sure. Trying to find the right water temp sensor for my C10 is a pain when the manufacturer of the digital dash kind of shrugs when I ask for a part number as the original sensor fell apart.
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Jul 17, 2022 00:40
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Wellll, the thing is some other people with the same swap also have this to varying degrees after I asked around for data logs. I am assuming it has to do with the kit wiring harness not being properly shielded.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Jul 17, 2022 |
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Jul 17, 2022 00:52
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STR posted:Of course, the Matrix dropped one of the heat shields. It has 4 bolts - 3 up front that go through plastic inserts, 1 in the back that goes into a metal nut in a plastic bracket, which snaps into the gas tank. Made one hell of a racket, as heat shields tend to do when they're resting on the exhaust. I've got an '09 Corolla and the heat shield was rattling. Same deal, rusted out around the nut and washer. Tried to weld something to something else that I can't even remember what or why and screwed up the original nut. I cut off a short piece of aluminum round bar, drilled and tapped it for something small like m6 filed a couple of flats in to it so I could get an adjustable wrench on it and put that bitch up there. For the next few months it was " I should really put a more permanent fix up there", but I don't know how many years it's been. Still no rattles
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Jul 17, 2022 01:48
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I'm gonna be honest here, not once in the history of ever have I put a heat shield back on if it made a break for freedom on its own. I help them along their way to freedom and forget all about it.
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Jul 17, 2022 06:54
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  Replaced the door spring on the Chaser, now I can pop the fuel door without shoving something under the release -or- asking my SO to hold it for me.  Washed the Hilux    Plastidipped the grill and side marker surrounds as well as this had the base dull-gray rather than Chrome that has aged badly. Now it looks a lot better.
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Jul 17, 2022 15:51
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STR posted:Of course, the Matrix dropped one of the heat shields. It has 4 bolts - 3 up front that go through plastic inserts, 1 in the back that goes into a metal nut in a plastic bracket, which snaps into the gas tank. Made one hell of a racket, as heat shields tend to do when they're resting on the exhaust. My Vibe did the same exact thing and I fixed it in the same exact way. For what it's worth it's been at least 3, maybe 4 years with a single beefy zip tie holding it up without issue.
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Jul 17, 2022 15:57
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kastein posted:I'm gonna be honest here, not once in the history of ever have I put a heat shield back on if it made a break for freedom on its own. I help them along their way to freedom and forget all about it. You've never owned a rotary. How do we fix that?
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Jul 17, 2022 17:15
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I did oil changes on the Lincoln and Ford for the first time in quite a while. As a result i am absolutely physically destroyed. I also lubed up all the rubber bits, and the car no longer sounds like a flock of seagulls when dealing with some of our rougher roads. Rolling around there, there are quite a few spots on the body that need some rust removed, but the underside of the car is quite well preserved by the automatic rustproofing system. There was quite possibly as much oil on it as in it. The car turns 50 in December and i don't think the valve covers have ever been off so it could be expected. I'm going to push to do as much as i can on the car this summer.
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Jul 17, 2022 17:23
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kastein posted:I'm gonna be honest here, not once in the history of ever have I put a heat shield back on if it made a break for freedom on its own. I help them along their way to freedom and forget all about it. This heat shield is on the larger side, and requires either cutting it in half around the pipe, or dropping the exhaust, to remove. Neither of which were things I cared to do. Especially the cutting part, since it's under the plastic gas tank. Sparks probably aren't the best idea.. Otherwise I'd be right there with you.
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Jul 17, 2022 18:48
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tin snips would probably do the job without sparks, but you probably do want a heat shield between the exhaust and a plastic fuel tank tbh
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Jul 17, 2022 18:55
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BlackMK4 posted:Wellll, the thing is some other people with the same swap also have this to varying degrees after I asked around for data logs. I am assuming it has to do with the kit wiring harness not being properly shielded. Shielding or a grounding issue was going to be my first guess. If it has shielding is it only grounded on one side (1 is correct iirc, both ends turns it into another wire but it's been a minute)? Also maybe the shield is wired to the same ground as the sensors? Idk if that would cause the issue but maybe. Are those sensors 0-5v?
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Jul 17, 2022 19:45
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honda whisperer posted:Shielding or a grounding issue was going to be my first guess. I agree with it being a shielding issue. Haltech has a harness that is standardized color to pin and the proper wires are shielded, but KPower used random wire colors / no shielding on the patch harness from the Haltech to the jumper board that connects to the stock BRZ wiring harness. In the engine bay KPower also used random colors, but I need to see if they did any shielding. Either way, not fun and pretty irritating. I corner balanced the car today though, so in theory it is all ready to go. Ignore the cross weight being off in both pictures, it was balanced after with me in the car, fuel was roughly equivalent. Before - 2901lb with E85 in the tank, Harrop supercharger, Subaru FA20 motor  After - 2687lb with 91 in the tank, Honda K24A motor  Soooo, roughly 200lb weight loss. There is about 75lb easily removed and another ~25lb by spending some money, but I don't think I will need to do it for my class.
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Jul 17, 2022 20:36
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Jesus. I guess the Subie motor was iron block?
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Jul 17, 2022 20:43
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Panty Saluter posted:Jesus. I guess the Subie motor was iron block? Nah, it is aluminum. To be fair, the Harrop kit was probably 80lb between the SC, pump, fluid, and radiator. FA20 had an OSGiken lightweight clutch/flywheel, thin wall stainless header, no cat, no AC pump, etc so it is like-for-like accessory wise.
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Jul 17, 2022 21:02
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I've never looked at actual numbers but I always figured a boxer kind of had to be a lot heavier than an inline 4, what with all those extra heads and cams and the spread out block.
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Jul 18, 2022 00:15
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Swapped out the Saginaw 605 for a chrome CPP500. (Put in a new chrome power steering pump as well) No more sloppy steering.
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Jul 18, 2022 01:48
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 I washed blue car
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Jul 18, 2022 02:32
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Lowclock posted:I've never looked at actual numbers but I always figured a boxer kind of had to be a lot heavier than an inline 4, what with all those extra heads and cams and the spread out block. They're shockingly huge for a 4 cylinder. I haven't looked close at the FA, but I owned an EJ for a bit. It's extremely wide, but not very tall.
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Jul 18, 2022 11:48
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STR posted:Battery started taking a poo poo Monday. I mean, that's really all a jump box is... kastein posted:I'm gonna be honest here, not once in the history of ever have I put a heat shield back on if it made a break for freedom on its own. I help them along their way to freedom and forget all about it. That one's shielding a plastic gas tank from the exhaust, though, and even I would prefer that stay there on my own car. McTinkerson posted:You've never owned a rotary. How do we fix that? That, too. Stupid-hot exhaust on those. So much so that glass pack survival is measured in weeks, so don't use those.
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Jul 18, 2022 18:13
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| # ? May 15, 2024 01:25 |
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Before I could even put plates on my van the kids ran the battery down and somehow conked out the radio. I had a theory that the system volume was stuck at zero. I opened up the dash a little and did find the 3rd party radio wired into the original radio in a way I've never seen before. But there was no faceplate to interact with the original radio. My plan was to hit the junkyard to try and find one; just to turn the volume back up. But then! I realized the steering wheel had input and volume control buttons hidden on the back. I was able to cycle through the inputs and get the radio sending sound to the speakers again.  Gonna try a plain wiring harness if they make one so I don't have to power two units.
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Jul 19, 2022 22:29
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