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Friday I come home to a compressor running and a hissing in the attic. I just shut it off until Saturday, at which time I braved the attic in 13F weather. At least the escaping air from the line kept me cool until I patched it.  That took like 10 minutes. I tackled a duct fan in my AC system next. No pics - it was too hot and dirty. Years ago, I installed a duct booster fan to try and get some more air to the master bedroom. I'm not sure it ever really helped - it was, as I recall, an 8" fan and my ducts are 9 or 10" - something slightly odd. Definitely bigger than the fan, but smaller than the next size up that was available from Home Depot at the time. I have since had my AC replaced. I told the installers about it, they re-ran the wire into the new cabinet, and I assumed they had connected it up. It's been still taking the window unit to keep it cool back there, so I decided that the fan had packed up or something. Turns out after testing that there was no power to the fan, and upon further inspection, the 120V line was just hanging loose in the cabinet, capped off. After looking at the wiring diagram for the AC, I determined that there is no switched 120V AC for the blower - it gets 120V all the time, and apparently converts to DC and controls/switches that at the blower itself. Rather than add a relay and figure that dumb poo poo out, I elected to pull the booster, and reinsert the chunk of duct I had cut out, and see if the non-op fan was just killing airflow, since the new unit should have enough capacity and flow now. That all happened, but it was hot and dirty, and I hated every second of it. Lots of aluminum tape was involved. At least I was close to the attic ladder, and could set up my little Ryobi cordless fan. Also, the AC was blowing cold air on me until I got the duct back together. Just ugh doing anything in summer in Texas, especially now with the climate change (that isn't happening according to the Right.) Sunday, I worked on the RX-7. I kind of didn't want to, but I figured that was the general malaise I'm feeling about the futility of doing anything right now, so I got out there and did something. New cheapo cutting wheels ant eh flex shaft on the Dremel worked fine.   Missed a spot-weld, obviously. Cut that out, and:   That was the last piece that needed to come out (for now...) so on to patching. Cleaned up:  Patch made:  I hit the parts that would be covered with zinc paint, and made a patch for another part while that dried:  I got those welded in with no real issue other than the smaller one took a couple do-overs as I ground down the weld and exposed the fact that I had missed the actual joint in places. Somehow I took no pictures of any of this. That's partially because as I'm using the right-angle die grinder on the welds on the front patch, I notice that it's stalling out easily, and, in fact, I can stall it by (gloved) hand. I look at the pressure and it's 40 PSI, and note that it seems like the compressor has been running a while. More hissing in the compressor hutch. I thought the plastic line had popped in there. Nope. That:  goes there:  The loving cooler broke. I had hoped that having everything bolted to the compressor would keep poo poo like this from happening, but I can't have nice things. I just packed up everything at this point. I don't even know if I can fix that. $100 down the drain. I can bypass it for now, I just need to get a couple more compression ferrules. I just wasn't up to going to the store after that. Already hot and tired, this was the universe telling me it was time for a shower and video games. I should have just played video games and let entropy take it all in the first place. I am literally *this* close to selling all this crap and just buying one good car/truck. It's getting where it's very difficult to enjoy anything with the way the world, or at leas the US is bent on becoming Nazi/oligarch/gerontocracy central. I can't enjoy car shows/meets hardly due to the amazing preponderance of Trumper fuckwads. I don't really have any "car" friends. Hell, I barely have friends any more. You lot are drat near all I've got. I hate working. I hate my country. I hate my house. Kinda tired of all of it. At least my marriage isn't complete poo poo. My wife puts up with a lot from me. I don't know why.
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Jul 11, 2022 16:42
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Aww man I recommend you take a nice long break from car stuff until you feel excited about it again.
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Jul 11, 2022 18:26
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Darchangel posted:I am literally *this* close to selling all this crap and just buying one good car/truck. It's getting where it's very difficult to enjoy anything with the way the world, or at leas the US is bent on becoming Nazi/oligarch/gerontocracy central. I can't enjoy car shows/meets hardly due to the amazing preponderance of Trumper fuckwads. I don't really have any "car" friends. Hell, I barely have friends any more. You lot are drat near all I've got.  Take a break from the car project for a bit, the world is a gently caress and last thing you need right now is banging your head on a project you're not enjoying. Play some video games, spend some time with the wife and make the best of it. The project car will be there when you come back.
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Jul 11, 2022 18:30
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Project car has been there for 10 years, and it annoys me that it sat that long. I just want to drive my RX-7, but I can't just leave the rust. I'm not Vice Grip Garage over here... edit: if this car weren't my first RX-7, and somewhat rarer for being a '79, I'd just pick one of the other chassis I have. I kinda wish one of the other ones I had was in rougher shape, or wrecked, so I could cut the floorpan out without guilt. edit2: and I feel like I'm useless if I don't get something done on something over the weekend. Lod knows I never get anything done during the week, despite the long daylight hours. I need a shop so badly... but how am I going to afford that in 1% America? Darchangel fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Jul 11, 2022 |
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Jul 11, 2022 18:57
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If it makes you feel any better, I too have learned I have rx-7 rust.  Tapping the rest of the metalwork seems like its confined to that section, but im sure ill have inside wheelwell issues ahead too. I guess im buying some of those wolf metal patch panels and have a new winter project?
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Jul 13, 2022 04:09
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Sgt Fox posted:If it makes you feel any better, I too have learned I have rx-7 rust. I'm afraid to check the control arm mounts in the wheelwell. I would like to find a wrecked one to replace the stuff I recently cut out around the seat mount. I can rebuild it, but it's pretty complex. Thankfully (?) all my rust, or most of it, is from water sitting where it shouldn't be, not winter salt and such. On a semi-positive note, compression ferrules arrived, so I bypassed the cooler to make the air compressor functional again. I realized I could have used flex line on the side that broke, since it is the "cold" side of the heat exchanger, which *may* reduce the issue. I can't use it on the hot side, or the bypass (which is hot in the absence of a heat exchanger) because the Rapid Air tubing is only good for 150 PSI at 70F. I was getting 120-130F at the head. I'm wondering if this is behind the blowouts I've had in the installed line as well. It's been 100+F outside. Significantly hotter in the attic, and even in the hutch with the compressor. May have to upgrade my line, or put a cutoff where I can reach it in the garage to shut off the whole thing every night. Looks like standard PEX water line is about 2x as thick as this stuff, but about the same pressure? I have a chunk of PEX at the house that I swear had higher pressure ratings, but the internet says standard rating is 160 PSI @ 73F and 100 PSI @ 180F. fake edit: minimum hydrostatic burst pressure is 480 PSI @73F for 1/2" I guess "pressure rating" is different from "burst pressure"? More fake edit: 80 PSI @ 200F, which is probably what I noted on my PEX. I definitely remember "200" in there. I suppose I can turn down my pressure switch - I don't need 150 PSI, typically. Also typically, even if the temp in the attic is high, the actual temp of the air lines will be a lot lower if I'm actually using air. It's just when they're sitting up there pressurized but nothing connected that they get *hot*, so maybe shutting off when not in use is the way to go.
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Jul 13, 2022 23:25
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What about running some copper cooling loops first, before going into your rapid air lines? It would also help to drop the water out. I've got a couple feet of industrial hose going into the 3/4" copper loops. I'm running 175psi. 
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Jul 14, 2022 03:39
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Sgt Fox posted:What about running some copper cooling loops first, before going into your rapid air lines? It would also help to drop the water out. That's a sweet setup. Darch, you need either soft copper and isolators on the cooler connections, or hydraulic line, which will rust internally, albeit slowly. That flex tubing isn't good in high heat, so running a stick of 3/4" copper will save your lines. If you do a loop like Fox posted, you'll need drain valves on the bottom of each loop like he has. I have something similar in my house garage, and it worked awesome.
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Jul 14, 2022 13:36
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What are the blue things that look like miniature skinny air tanks? Water separators?
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Jul 14, 2022 15:06
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Desiccant filled water separators, yes.
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Jul 14, 2022 16:41
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So, OK, here's what I've got now. Or had. The current cooler is a Derale oil cooler with -6 fittings, solidly mounted to a frame bolted to the air compressor. There's half-inch aluminum tubing going from the compressor head to the cooler, then 1/2" aluminum tubing goin form the cooler to a water separator mounted below the cooler, then another 1/2" aluminum tube going to the tank inlet (top of the tank.) My thinking was that it would all vibrate the same amount, but I'm guessing that the line going from the cooler to the water separator was looped long enough that it wiggled a bit more, fatiguing the fitting. I would have thought that the soft aluminum would give before the copper, but where it broke is a joint, so maybe that explains it.  edit: the fitting to the rear - left in the picture - is the one that broke. What I've done for now is bypass the cooler altogether, running a new 1/2" aluminum line from the compressor head around and down to the water separator. That'll work for now, but the cooler did seem to be working, reducing the amount of moisture in the tank and at the outlets. A copper manifold like Sgt. Fox' is definitely doable, though it would have to be inside the constraints of the compressor hutch, roughly a 2' square footprint, 6-7' tall. Oo! OR maybe outside! I wonder if adding a support to the loop with an isolated Adele clamp as it comes out of the cooler would have helped? Possibly even bracing that side of the frame. I only braced the other side. Brace:  If Derale won't replace the cooler, I may just build a cooling loop like Fox'.
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Jul 14, 2022 20:56
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Since the cooler is copper you can probably actually just solder it back together. I think a p clamp/adel clamp a few inches away would likely help a lot. It may feel solidly mounted and rigid to us squishy meatbags but at a few tens or hundreds Hz from the compressor vibration it likely looks like a tuning fork, only reason it would have cracked this quickly.
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Jul 15, 2022 11:38
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kastein posted:Since the cooler is copper you can probably actually just solder it back together. Yeah. There's a reason that they use soft copper and a loop between the pump and tank normally. It absorbs the vibrations.
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Jul 15, 2022 13:27
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Wayyyyyyyyy back in my college fluids lab, we'd run tightly coiled loops (4 or 5 ish? More when it was easy?) in the copper tubing wherever gauges hooked up to vibrating or expanding/contracting things. I've seen it done similarly where mechanical oil pressure sender lines hook up to car engines.
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Jul 15, 2022 18:49
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It's actually very common on body-on-frame vehicles where the lines jump from the proportioning valve to the frame or proportioning valve to master cylinder.
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Jul 16, 2022 04:11
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If you're feeling like you're in a funk, or overwhelmed, or not sure where you're going next on this project... It could be worse  I saw this post and immediately thought of your years of detailed work to turn back the clock on your red, very slightly rusty RX with far more mechanical experience than this guy.  (Almost literally the entire thread told him he had a parts car.)
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Jul 18, 2022 07:52
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kastein posted:Since the cooler is copper you can probably actually just solder it back together. I figured as much. Have to clean all the paint off before I can solder, which is annoying. No response from Derale yet, so that may have to happen. sharkytm posted:Yeah. There's a reason that they use soft copper and a loop between the pump and tank normally. It absorbs the vibrations. Not on mine. One "L" shaped line from the pump to the top of the tank.  Commodore_64 posted:Wayyyyyyyyy back in my college fluids lab, we'd run tightly coiled loops (4 or 5 ish? More when it was easy?) in the copper tubing wherever gauges hooked up to vibrating or expanding/contracting things. I've seen it done similarly where mechanical oil pressure sender lines hook up to car engines. Good idea. I'd need to get a proper 1/2" tubing bender to do that, though, unless I want *big* loops. The bending tools I have only go up to 7/16", and that aluminum just *wants* to kink. kastein posted:If you're feeling like you're in a funk, or overwhelmed, or not sure where you're going next on this project... Jesus loving Christ spoiler that poo poo. I noticeably recoiled and almost made a noise. At work. How in the actual gently caress? Ah, I see it in the upper left of the photo: some idiot kept a tarp on it "to keep off the rain" and trapped every bit of moisture instead. I could use those EU/JP front bumper signals with the city lights, just to have something different.
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Jul 18, 2022 16:48
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Oh, I may have accidentally backed a YesWelder TIG/arc/plasma cutter on Kickstarter. Really hope it's not a piece of crap. Really want to learn TIG and particularly aluminum welding without having to deal with a spool gun on a MIG. My 3D printer should be showing up in a couple months, too. They're supposed to start shipping in August. Can't wait to start printing dickbutts.
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Jul 18, 2022 16:57
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Darchangel posted:Oh, I may have accidentally backed a YesWelder TIG/arc/plasma cutter on Kickstarter. Really hope it's not a piece of crap. Really want to learn TIG and particularly aluminum welding without having to deal with a spool gun on a MIG. Is it the CT2050? I just looked it up and it looks very promising...
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Jul 18, 2022 19:39
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More than Id want to spend, but cunifer / copper nickel tubing comes in that size (it was 1/2, right??) https://www.amazon.com/4LIFETIMELIN...ps%2C241&sr=8-2
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Jul 18, 2022 20:45
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Is it the CT2050? I just looked it up and it looks very promising... Yep, that's it. It's a lot of money, but not much for a TIG. Definitely the most I've ever spent on KS. Previously it was $600 on a 3D printer that never shipped, which made me hesitant here - but Yeswelder actually builds things, including welders, already, so not as apprehensive. Seems like most folks were generally happy with the previous model, so I hope that continues. I've been happy with the Yeswelder true-color big window helmet I have.
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Jul 18, 2022 22:45
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Commodore_64 posted:More than Id want to spend, but cunifer / copper nickel tubing comes in that size (it was 1/2, right??) https://www.amazon.com/4LIFETIMELIN...ps%2C241&sr=8-2 That is pretty pricey. I'd still be concerned about it kinking on tight bends without a bending tool, though probably not as much. A 10' stick would probably be plenty for the existing connections.
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Jul 18, 2022 22:47
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kastein posted:If you're feeling like you're in a funk, or overwhelmed, or not sure where you're going next on this project... 8.6 on the Sockington rust scale
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Jul 19, 2022 04:17
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You Am I posted:8.6 on the Sockington rust scale What's a 10/10? Just a pile of rust flakes and tires?
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Jul 19, 2022 17:35
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Dirt.
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Jul 19, 2022 23:37
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STR posted:Red Dirt. FTFY. Can't be (former) steel if it doesn't have iron in there somewhere. edit: I have done exactly jack poo poo the past week. I did get my refurbished Ryobi One+ oscillating tool, and will supposedly get the work light in today, literally a month later. They cited C19 delays when I ordered, but WTF? How do you get *that* backed up. I could have gone to the local (ish) store and picked them up same day. Wouldn't have gotten the free electrostatic sprayer, though, whoop-de-doo. And also cost $10 in gas. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Jul 21, 2022 |
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Jul 21, 2022 18:24
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OK, actually feeling human lately, and a bit stir-crazy. Only so much "WFH" I can do. Noticed that the dishwasher was wobbly Tuesday morning (at 5 AM, because I couldn't sleep.)  Yeah, that'll do it. One of the feet had somehow come out of adjustment allowing it to move around, eventually fatiguing the super thin stainless.  Thankfully, a while back I bought a heavy riveter with some 1/4" rivets:  A couple holes drilled, and:    Just clears the seal.  So, Tuesday evening my wife wakes me up from a nap at about 8 PM (see the aforementioned "woke up at 5 AM...) asking me if I'd been in the Crown Vic that day. She's been checking the CV as she leaves for work, since I've basically been not going out. She noticed that the window was down when she stepped out in the evening. I'm fearing the worst, but when I go out, it's actually 3/4 down, not broken. Ugly noises from inside the door when I try to roll it up, and then I note I can pull it up by hand - and it slides back down by itself. Great. I would like to give a big ol' gently caress YOU to Ford for literally riveting EVERYTHING to the door I needed to remove to get the regulator out.   Door handle had to come out to get to the other rivet for the window:   (turned out I could just take those screws out for the motor.) Plus two more rivets at the bottom of the vertical track. The only bolts/nuts were two at the top of the track, and Ford managed to gently caress those up, too:  11 loving mm Lots of knocking out center pins and drilling later:   I was hoping it was the traditional clutch disintegration issue, since I have a kit for that:  But the bit on the shuttle that holds the ends of the cable cracked.  I'll be replacing as many of the rivets with riv-nuts as possible:  Or nuts and bolts as required. Cheap-rear end idiots. I hoe the engineer that came up with this poo poo died poor and alone. I did get to use my new toy, and was very satisfied with it:  Rock Auto claims to be able to get me a genuine Motorcraft regulator, sans motor, by Thursday faster than Amazon can get me a Dorman one (Sunday. On Prime, even...) for like $10 more, so I ordered that. Meanwhile, only the finest window support mechanism: 
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Aug 3, 2022 15:57
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Man, gently caress working inside of doors, amirite? I had to fix both of the rear windows in the Nova when I bought it and that sucked. Luckily no rivets, but I had to do the entire process pretty much by feel and by the time I was done, both of my forearms looked like I spent a weekend wrestling with cats.
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Aug 3, 2022 17:12
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God I loving hate door work so much. I drat near needed a tetanus booster after my last round with Roadmaster window regulators. I do have to say that in the engineers defense they probably designed that for spotweld nuts, but were overridden by the loving bean counters, but it doesn't make my hate for pop riveted door bullshit any less to say that. I usually use a grinder to very gingerly grind the heads off 99% of the way, then pop the remainder loose by prying the two parts apart and push the stump out of the hole with a screwdriver. I find it means I'm less likely to either spin the rivet in the hole 5ever or drill too deep and make the hole too big by accident.
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Aug 3, 2022 17:57
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Definitely gently caress working in doors. As far as that goes, this wasn't the worst, at least. With the speaker out, there was decent access between that hole and the one at the rear. I forgot the part where I had to remove the window completely to get the top of the regulator track out. Fortunately, that wasn't very difficult. There was no way I was getting a grinder in there. Maybe a Dremel with fiber-reinforced wheels. I just held the heads with pliers to prevent spinning. Worked fine.
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Aug 3, 2022 18:15
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A large box appeared. It contained a shitload of air pillows (what a waste...) and a smaller box.  Inside the smaller box, that which I sought:  Fixed the lower mountings to be not stupid:  Rock Auto, BTW, cheated me. There was no magnet in the box. I am disappointed. It was hot (99F), but I wished to get the job done, rapidly becoming tired of Covid-enforced sit arounding. Installation too maybe 30 minutes, now that I knew where everything was, and having already installed the riv-nuts. No pics, see the above about hot-ness. It went right back together, with a couple fiddly bits and one "back up a minute" operation. Fiddly bit was adjusting the track so that the window stayed in the guides. Turns out the holes for the studs at the top are oversized, presumably just for that. The other moment was realizing that the door actuator rod for the inside handle needs to be positioned before installing the regulator - it gets trapped between the door and regulator. Fortunately, I was able to sneak it into place by undoing the two bottom bolts. That would have been a round of very loud inarticulate cursing if I had used rivets there. So STR, pay attention to that when you do yours! I used M6 x 25mm bolts with nylock nuts to attach the window to the mechanism. The holes are large enough I probably should have use M8 to eliminate potential play, but it's working OK now. Verified like 20 times. I ran it up and down at every step of reassembly, just out of paranoia. The bottom mount could easily be M6 or M8 (probably - the existing hole is right at 5/16", *almost* big enough for the M6 riv-nuts [11/32"]) bolts and nuts if one didn't have riv-nuts handy. You could probably reach well enough to use nuts and bolt to reattach the door handle interface, too. Riv-nuts made it trivial, though. Hope this one lasts another 17 years.
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Aug 4, 2022 23:30
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Still going slowly insane from Covid-wnofrced WFH, without enough "W" to do FH... So I stepped out into the garage and rectified a wrong. I got my bench grinder free from a previous workplace years ago - the bearings made all kinds of noise. Turned out all it needed was cleaning and lube. I've been using it for at least, uh... 30 years? since then. But it didn't have tool rests. I've been making do and only occasionally flinging things across the garage. I got a little 3" mini-grinder from Harbor Freight a while back and delighted in using it with the tool rest *it* had, so I determined that I need to fix that on the big boy. Today was the day. After a bunch of measuring and some drawing (and a thread repair on one of the tool rest mounting holes...) I gathered some steel I though might work.  A flurry of cutting, drilling, and filing later:  Aw, yeh:   Yes, that's a light switch. The original push-pull shattered a couple years ago, and the light switch pit without modification! Parts used: shelf support for the keyhole style freestanding garage shelves that had one of the rivets torn out (the grey bit) bracket from a Mrs. Baird's display table top that I used for my folding table a while back (the blue bit) wing bolt I had hanging around from something rusty 5/16"-13 x 3/4" bolts I replated a while back as a test, plus a couple 5/16 nuts to space them out from contacting the grinding wheel. I could cut them shorter, but  Basically everything in this is reused or recycled, and that makes me happy. I've got the basic pieces cut for the wire wheel side one, just need to drill and slot them, but after an hour+ in the 100F heat, even out of the direct sun, I was done. I *am* still recovering from Covid-19... Speaking of, tested positive still, yesterday, but only faintly so. Will test again Sunday, and can hopefully go back to work Monday. I shouldn't be so happy about that, but a lot of my job is hands-on, so I don't have a lot to do remotely. I shouldn't complain, but kinda bored, and I don't like getting paid for nothing. Don't get me wrong, I'm no workaholic, but I do have some pride and ethics. :P
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Aug 5, 2022 23:10
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Fffffffff I didn't realize what I'd be dealing with for the window regulator. Mine pulled the same poo poo about a month ago, the window has been held up with packing tape since then. I'm not sure where it's broken, but I get some crunching noises if I touch the window switch. That looks annoying. I know the plastic sheet is absolutely wrecked on my driver's door, maybe someone's replaced it before.  e: found a picture of the door apart. Still rivet city. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Aug 7, 2022 |
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Aug 6, 2022 04:00
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Flashbacks to dealing with the rivets in the Town Car window reg.
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Aug 6, 2022 19:52
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STR posted:Fffffffff I didn't realize what I'd be dealing with for the window regulator. Mine pulled the same poo poo about a month ago, the window has been held up with packing tape since then. I'm not sure where it's broken, but I get some crunching noises if I touch the window switch. Crunchy could be the traditional Ford PW clutch nubbins disintegrating. Those are in the motor. Or it could be like mine where it was the cable wadding up and making terrible noises. Seat Safety Switch posted:Flashbacks to dealing with the rivets in the Town Car window reg. Yeah, those would be exactly the same. While looking for the regulator I also found a replacement rivet kit, too, if one has the rivet tool to handle them and wished to anger the next owner or their future selves.
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Aug 8, 2022 23:31
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Darchangel posted:While looking for the regulator I also found a replacement rivet kit, too, if one has the rivet tool to handle them and wished to anger the next owner or their future selves. We pulled the entire junkyard window out with the regulator mount attached, and took it to a glass shop. I have no idea what they did with it, but a window appeared in the door a few hours later and I am positive that they earned the money.
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Aug 9, 2022 00:00
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Honestly, it's not the worst window regulator setup to deal with - it's just the rivets that are annoying and stupid. With the speaker out, there are two reasonably large holes to work with. With the inner sweeper popped off, the window comes out easily once the rivets are drilled out, and the regulator comes out throw the access holes pretty easily. Getting it back in was reasonable with the riv-nuts installed.
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Aug 9, 2022 19:29
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Yeah be glad youre not doing a Subaru window replacement. gently caress. That. poo poo.
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Aug 9, 2022 19:50
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So Dorman provides a list of appropriate nuts and bolts via a tech sheet on Rockauto:code:Add probably $10-15 for all the hardware if I have to buy everything individually (the washers I can likely buy a pack of, the nuts/bolts will probably have to be individual). More than I was hoping to spend, but I'm sick of opening my door twice a day to badge in and out of the parking lot at work. I'm not going to rip it all apart in hopes it's just the plastic gears disintegrating - the window fell down while driving, and can be freely moved up and down by hand (though if I hit the down button, the motor does try to yank it for a split second - I can hear stuff hitting the door). fake edit: called A-Line, they have it for only a couple of bucks more than Advance (that's factoring in the best coupon I could find for Advance). The difference in gas alone will cover the difference, and I'd rather support a family owned business. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Aug 11, 2022 |
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Aug 11, 2022 13:34
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| # ? May 25, 2024 00:04 |
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Rock auto got it to me faster than Amazon - 3 days I believe it was. I definitely wanted the Motorcraft part. Also LOL at Dorman throwing 1/4"-20 at everything. I mean, that'll work, but the entire rest of the car is metric. M6 is the metric equivalent of 1/4"-20, of course, and I have a bunch of them, plus the threaded inserts and the tool for it. *Really* didn't want to deal with contorting my hand into the door to mess with the nuts. At least Dorman is using lock nuts - that's a smart choice. If I didn't have the riv-nuts, I'd have done the same, thought he holes are big enough I'd be tempted to use M8 or 5/16" bolts to take out slop. The holes are literally 5/16"/8mm. I had to drill them out to 11/32" (plus a little wiggle) for the riv-nuts.
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Aug 11, 2022 17:32
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