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At least paint the text on his chest so it pops out. I'd also do the armor in at least two colors with some "unpainted" steel between sections. That was my take on him from a good five years ago
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Jul 20, 2022 01:18
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Wrr posted:Advice wanted! Brighter metal for some highlights scratches, and a really bright accent color somewhere so it's not all just brown and black. Maybe like some freehand numbers or other squad designations?
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Jul 20, 2022 01:20
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EdsTeioh posted:White Scars player/painter here. My current method for doing white (and I've done this on Stormtroopers also) is to airbrush Stynlrez white (but really any pure crisp white would work just as well), then take some dark brown or black enamel wash (AK or MiG Engine Grime or Streaking Grime) and coat the entire loving model in that poo poo; like slather it on, let it sit for a few minutes and then take a qtip with some white spirit and mop up the majority of it. Done. drat that looks nice. I’ve been using Apothecary White as a sort of wash and now this makes me feel like I’ve been over-complicating it.
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Jul 20, 2022 01:32
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Wrr posted:Advice wanted! I'd do the roller coaster safety harness holding the dude in the mech probably black (with some gunmetal or whatever drybrushed over it, obviously weather it to match the rest of the figure) so that it creates a frame around the guys head, hopefully pulling attention to him. My current take is that you have a sand tone uniform in a sand tone mech so it kind of all blends a bit. Particularly if you are planning a sand tone base. The dark around the actual operaror will make him seem brighter in comparison.
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Jul 20, 2022 01:36
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What model is that? It's rad as hell.
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Jul 20, 2022 01:49
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Count Thrashula posted:What model is that? It's rad as hell. That is Infinity's USAriadna "Blackjacks" 10th Heavy Ranger Bat. (AP HMG)
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Jul 20, 2022 02:03
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Tried my hand at speed painting as a way of shutting off my brain and just going with the flow. Pretty happy with how Raph turned out for two hours work.
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Jul 20, 2022 04:16
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Commissar Canuck posted:Tried my hand at speed painting as a way of shutting off my brain and just going with the flow. Pretty happy with how Raph turned out for two hours work. This looks great! How'd you go about it? Airbrush?
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Jul 20, 2022 04:22
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w00tmonger posted:This looks great! Thanks! Mostly airbrush, except for the bandana,eyes, and stitches then used micron pens to make the recesses/cuts pop a bit
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Jul 20, 2022 04:54
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Professor Shark posted:My go to is: prime grey, dry brush a couple thin layers of Ulthuan Grey, shade with a mixture of 7:1 Medium/ Drakenhoff Nightshade, rebase with Ulthuan x 2, edge highlight with 1:1 Ulthuan and your choice of white, extreme edge with white Sounds simple indeed thanks for the tip. I think dry brushing might be the way to go. EdsTeioh posted:White Scars player/painter here. My current method for doing white (and I've done this on Stormtroopers also) is to airbrush Stynlrez white (but really any pure crisp white would work just as well), then take some dark brown or black enamel wash (AK or MiG Engine Grime or Streaking Grime) and coat the entire loving model in that poo poo; like slather it on, let it sit for a few minutes and then take a qtip with some white spirit and mop up the majority of it. Done. That looks amazing. As a novice how good are enamel washes for general use, such as skin tones, different colours and such. It looks really simple to add depth without highlight compared to a nuln oil or any other wash.
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Jul 20, 2022 07:05
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Enamel and Oil washes are super easy to use, way more forgiving than acrylic washes because they don't dry in like 20 seconds. They are more of a hassle though and having to deal with mineral spirits, odourless or not, might be enough to turn you off.
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Jul 20, 2022 07:47
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What are the health concerns?
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Jul 20, 2022 07:54
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Drinking both enamel and oil washes have equally unhelpful side effects, I wouldn’t worry about choosing based on that.
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Jul 20, 2022 08:31
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Mineral spirits are mostly just an irritant on the skin and inhaled but if you're huffing the fumes constantly it'll damage your kidneys. The hassle is that it's also very flammable, lots of fires have started over the course of history by oil soaked rags just sitting around crumpled up. The oxidization of linseed oil generates heat and when that heat is trapped the paint thinner can ignite. You have to wipe down all your mineral spirits after you're done painting because dumping that stuff into the water supply is a big no-no. Luckily with minis you're not using that much of either so you can just lay out your paper towels to dry outdoors until they're totally dry then dispose in the garbage. Basically, have a plan to stay safe when you're using them (wear gloves so you're not absorbing it through your skin all the time, open a window, if that window is kinda far then set up a fan to circulate air) and how to clean up (either dump soaked paper towels in a metal container to take to a hazardous waste depot or let them out to dry for a couple days outdoors, never dump down the drain, get some brush soap so you don't spend forever using thinner to clean your brushes) and you're fine.
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Jul 20, 2022 08:38
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So if I could handle the mineral spirits. As a novice o could, for example, put on the base coat, varnish, oil wash the shades I want and then highlight via removal and essentially be almost done apart from smaller details? That does sound like an incredibly fast method.
Calhanol fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Jul 20, 2022 |
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Jul 20, 2022 10:26
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TotalHell posted:drat that looks nice. I’ve been using Apothecary White as a sort of wash and now this makes me feel like I’ve been over-complicating it. Man, TBH I love Apothecary White. People bitch that it's a grey wash, and it is, which is 100% what you want for painting white. Calhanol posted:Sounds simple indeed thanks for the tip. I think dry brushing might be the way to go. At this point I'm doing enamel washes instead of Nuln/Agrax etc. It's a little more work with the cleanup and all but to me it's worth it. I'm not the best painter; I'd say I'm "good tabletop" despite somehow accidentally winning a few contests, but my theory on the whole thing is that I want it to look cool from my eye to the tabletop and not 3 inches from my face, and also I want my poo poo painted and "done" as opposed to spending months on a squad and then having a bunch more primed poo poo. Calhanol posted:So if I could handle the mineral spirits. As a novice o could, for example, put on the base coat, oil wash the shades I want and then highlight via removal and essentially be almost done apart from smaller details? That does sound like an incredibly fast method. Yeah that's basically how I do it but I do details before the enamel. I generally do the enamel wash last though and also make sure that you paint a little lighter than normal as the whole process will tend to darken the model overall. Here's another dude I did for Kill Team. Same basic process but I used Space Wolf Grey contrast on the whole uniform but then went over the pants with Thunderhawk Blue and then picked everything else out with Snakebite Leather and poo poo and then slopped on the streaking grime.  edit: I've since painted the guard on that power sword.
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Jul 20, 2022 16:44
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Well I might try that off the bat. Test it with some other minis I am willing to sacrifice for testing. Maybe some cheap army men then my family's cluedo game minis before I go to my star wars imperial assault minis. Seeing it with bright colours makes me wonder how easy with black armour it could be ä for Darth Vader and such. Could starting from a mid to dark grey and then black oil wash and remove to come up with a black looking armour with highlights?
Calhanol fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Jul 20, 2022 |
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Jul 20, 2022 16:58
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Calhanol posted:Well I might try that off the bat. Test it with some other minis I am willing to sacrifice for testing. Maybe some cheap army men then my family's cluedo game minis before I go to my star wars imperial assault minis. Seeing it with bright colours makes me wonder how easy with black armou for Darth Vader and such could starting from a mid to dark grey and then black oil wash and remove to come up with a black looking armour with highlights? I haven't done it on anything that dark as a primary color, but it should be fine. Might even try it with a super dark blue or something. Actually I think I have multiple Dark Vaders; I should try that myself.
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Jul 20, 2022 17:00
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EdsTeioh posted:I haven't done it on anything that dark as a primary color, but it should be fine. Might even try it with a super dark blue or something. Actually I think I have multiple Dark Vaders; I should try that myself. If you do. I look forward to seeing it. Maybe dark blue with some dry brushed highlights in areas like the helmet and armour to give out the shine. Though honestly until I actually start painting myself, it's all ideas I'm throwing out here. I hope to get enough spare change to afford starting it at some point though.
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Jul 20, 2022 17:36
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Calhanol posted:Well I might try that off the bat. Test it with some other minis I am willing to sacrifice for testing. Maybe some cheap army men then my family's cluedo game minis before I go to my star wars imperial assault minis. Seeing it with bright colours makes me wonder how easy with black armour it could be ä for Darth Vader and such. Could starting from a mid to dark grey and then black oil wash and remove to come up with a black looking armour with highlights? It's not oil wash but I painted this squig with greys and gave it a black shade wash afterwards. Makes it read as black quite well I think. Can't see why a dark oil wash shouldn't do the same. 
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Jul 20, 2022 17:40
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Eej posted:You have to wipe down all your mineral spirits after you're done painting because dumping that stuff into the water supply is a big no-no. quote:get some brush soap so you don't spend forever using thinner to clean your brushes) and you're fine.
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Jul 20, 2022 18:04
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Use the shittiest brushes you own for enamels and thinner. If you don't have any lovely ones, then I guess make some lovely. These are mine:
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Jul 20, 2022 18:16
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tangy yet delightful posted:whoops Yeah it's fine just wipe off as much thinner that's on the brush as possible with a paper towel until it's as dry as you can get it then use your master's brush soap in the sink. Tiny amounts of thinner going into the sink is fine from brush washing compared to just dumping your thinner cup straight down there.
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Jul 20, 2022 18:29
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Another question asking ahead, as I painfully slowly work through the 4 infantry I have in progress (with 63 more to go eventually)... how do you guys handle painting vehicle hulls without any damage to the paint? Exhaust Manifold is a fragile enough paint that the back of one knuckle tapping the leg of my unsealed Contemptor hosed up the finish where it tapped, and that's the base color for 80% of... everything. I don't plan on many vehicles - a crime against Iron Warriors, I know - but I'm at least obligated to paint the Spartan in this box and I'd like a Sicaran or two in the future, so it's something I'm going to have to figure out eventually. Getting the top and most of the sides done without (or with minimally) touching the model seems straightforward enough, if uncomfortable, but getting the underside and any bottom details on the sides is where complications come in. Best I can think of is "paint and seal one or two sides at a time, hope everything matches consistently". Doesn't help that my painting area shares the same space as my WFH area so I'd have to move any active project multiple times a day, again trying to completely avoid touching the paint. Figured this out a long time ago with subassemblies and pinning for infantry, but that's not near as easy on vehicles, especially not Marine-style "assemble a box by gluing flat edges, be ready for gaps to fill" vehicles.
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Jul 20, 2022 18:44
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wear gloves?
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Jul 20, 2022 19:11
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Spanish Manlove posted:wear gloves? Should probably have mentioned the box of latex gloves sitting next to my paint.
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Jul 20, 2022 19:17
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jesus WEP posted:you’ll pry my German Red Brown primer from my cold dead hands German Red-Brown primer goes on so nicely in one coat, look at this smooth chocolatey Genestealer I (paintbrush) primed, and compare it to the poor soul that got the Desert Tan primer, which simultaneously goes on too thin and too thick at the same time, it runs and clumps and bubbles and I hate it but I don't have another light primer yet and I can't use Quickpaint on the dark primer but it looks awful with the blotchiness of this tan primer and aaaa  
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Jul 20, 2022 21:36
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SkyeAuroline posted:Another question asking ahead, as I painfully slowly work through the 4 infantry I have in progress (with 63 more to go eventually)... how do you guys handle painting vehicle hulls without any damage to the paint? Exhaust Manifold is a fragile enough paint that the back of one knuckle tapping the leg of my unsealed Contemptor hosed up the finish where it tapped, and that's the base color for 80% of... everything. I don't plan on many vehicles - a crime against Iron Warriors, I know - but I'm at least obligated to paint the Spartan in this box and I'd like a Sicaran or two in the future, so it's something I'm going to have to figure out eventually. Getting the top and most of the sides done without (or with minimally) touching the model seems straightforward enough, if uncomfortable, but getting the underside and any bottom details on the sides is where complications come in. Best I can think of is "paint and seal one or two sides at a time, hope everything matches consistently". Doesn't help that my painting area shares the same space as my WFH area so I'd have to move any active project multiple times a day, again trying to completely avoid touching the paint. Construct an elaborate model holder so you don't need to touch the model itself?
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Jul 20, 2022 23:23
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Archenteron posted:German Red-Brown primer goes on so nicely in one coat, look at this smooth chocolatey Genestealer I (paintbrush) primed, and compare it to the poor soul that got the Desert Tan primer, which simultaneously goes on too thin and too thick at the same time, it runs and clumps and bubbles and I hate it but I don't have another light primer yet and I can't use Quickpaint on the dark primer but it looks awful with the blotchiness of this tan primer and aaaa jesus WEP fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jul 20, 2022 |
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Jul 20, 2022 23:36
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Did some more work on the Blackjack, it does seem a bit better but I need to keep pushing it, breaking it up, etc I originally painted the crash cage bit the same white and orange and the back of the arms and the feet but it looked kinda goofy.   Any tips for a good brush on matte varnish? I don't think humidity will be on my side in Japan till the winter and I'd like to seal some of these guys up
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Jul 21, 2022 00:21
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Wrr posted:Any tips for a good brush on matte varnish? I don't think humidity will be on my side in Japan till the winter and I'd like to seal some of these guys up Pretty much any of them. I just use liquitex acrylic varnish, which is the art store variety and comes in a big 20ml bottle. I use it for both brush varnishing and airbrushing, although for brush varnishing it's a good idea to thin it with water and do two thin coats with drying time in between. Any artist or painter's acrylic varnish will work just fine.
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Jul 21, 2022 00:39
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PoptartsNinja posted:Pretty much any of them. I just use liquitex acrylic varnish, which is the art store variety and comes in a big 20ml bottle. I use it for both brush varnishing and airbrushing, although for brush varnishing it's a good idea to thin it with water and do two thin coats with drying time in between. Does it need to be acrylic specific? I saw one that was advertised for use on clay crafts and wasn't sure if its just the same thing. Working Amazon.jp here so a lot of the usual brands aren't available.
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Jul 21, 2022 01:53
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What's that mech mini from? Got a sorta Heavy Gear or Votoms vibe and that's my jam.
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Jul 21, 2022 02:16
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I think this question may have been asked not too long ago, but I couldn't find the discussion. Apologies if I'm repeating something. But I'm looking for advice on rattle can varnishes. I've been using gloss and matt cans from Tamiya which are fantastic, but they've very expensive. Do people have experience with regular (hardware) cans? Good or bad? Any recommended brands? Cheers
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Jul 21, 2022 02:27
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EdsTeioh posted:What's that mech mini from? Got a sorta Heavy Gear or Votoms vibe and that's my jam. BaronVanAwesome posted:That is Infinity's USAriadna "Blackjacks" 10th Heavy Ranger Bat. (AP HMG) Infinity has good mech design. Usually they're more anime style, but the Ariadna faction's shtick is that they got isolated from the rest of humanity for a long time, so they're tech is more or less modern humanity tech. Everyone is crazy sci-fi future bullshit. Haqqislam's Maghariba tank is also fantastic.  They recently kick started a game called "TAG Raid" which is all about the big fucks.
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Jul 21, 2022 02:36
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Starting to think I'm cursed. On something like my fifth 2-hour painting session for these first couple models for my IW (not even close to done on and of them, if I was extremely charitable I'm maybe 30% through). Made my palette from scratch each time with materials I know are good, because I've used them with great success before (and used multiple sources for both paper & water holding medium, to eliminate a single bad material as cause), setting everything up like normal... and without fail, every time, my paints are either so broken immediately on contact with the palette they may as well be washes, or they immediately dry solid on the palette within 5 minutes, with no in between. There is nowhere near enough water in the palette to be flooding the top of the paper, and the surface is moist to the touch but otherwise dry - I even tried intentionally putting much less water than normally necessary one of these attempts and it still broke on contact instead of (logically) drying out fast. This is less of an issue for metallics besides needing to do 4-5 coats for every one that would normally necessary, but something is hosed up when I'm eight coats in on Mephiston Red and the grey primer is still showing through more clearly than the paint is. The paint starts to break before I even touch it with a paintbrush with smaller dropper quantities. I'm not stupid, I've made wet palettes dozens of times before successfully, and I've been able to paint the normal "two thin coats" way with strong, bright colors over the same primer with the same paints from the same bloody pots without issue. The raw paint straight from the pot is fine and behaves exactly as you'd expect unthinned paint to be. Indoor humidity holds at 65% in the room I paint in, which isn't unusual here. I have no bloody idea what I'm doing wrong at this point, but it's breaking my morale even further than it already was to have ten hours in on a couple infantry sized models (and, for about 2 hours of it, a dread that's been ignored since), and all I have to show for it is about eight colors basecoated, of which at least three are hosed up enough I can't recover without stripping the models. (Turns out painting yellow with glorified washes doesn't work.) What the hell can I possibly be missing here? There has to be something glaringly obvious and stupid, right? (I can't wait for this to compound the aforementioned vehicle painting issue, too. Congrats, finish hosed up because you existed near it, be ready for half an hour repainting a square inch...)
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Jul 21, 2022 03:07
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SkyeAuroline posted:I'm eight coats in on Mephiston Red and the grey primer is still showing through more clearly than the paint is. Stop using a wet pallet, you're getting WAY too much water in the paint. Meph Red should cover grey in one coat. It sounds like you're diluting the pigment down to nothing.
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Jul 21, 2022 03:34
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moths posted:Stop using a wet pallet, you're getting WAY too much water in the paint. I've tried using a dry palette as well, that came up a few pages back with the subject of metallics, so I tried it for regular paint too. Every non metallic paint I've tried with it (so far, Mephiston Red, Vallejo Hull Red, and in a long shot attempt to not have to do a ninth coat of Averland Sunset, that) has been rock hard dry before I even finish two coats on one model (well, one base, for the Hull Red). vvvv Like I said in the original post, 65% humidity in the immediate area (combo thermometer/hygrometer sits on my desk) if not higher at all times when I'm painting. Pretty sure that's on the high end for indoor humidity. SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Jul 21, 2022 |
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Jul 21, 2022 03:38
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Perhaps invest in a humidifier then for the nearby area, that sounds like it's drying way too fast. even this cheapo on nearby would probably be enough https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Humidifier-Personal-Desktop-Shut-Off/dp/B07Z64CSTJ/ SkyeAuroline posted:
Missed that, nvm then GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Jul 21, 2022 |
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Jul 21, 2022 03:42
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I recommend cuppy dry palettes as a good middle ground between flat dry and wet palettes in conjunction with an eyedropper. How should I be sealing bloodbowl bases that do not require the slit and the hole (why do they have holes?) when they arent required? Milliput works but is a messy hassle.
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Jul 21, 2022 03:42
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