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Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

knox_harrington posted:

That was the way I was told to learn clutchless upshifts; slight pressure up on the shifter and tap the clutch. Gives very smooth shifts.

:confused: that’s not clutchless upshifting. Unless I am misunderstanding you I definitely would not recommend shifting like that.

Clutchless upshifts are a matter of timing. When you close the throttle, the transmission (briefly) unloads which allows the gears to slide. If you get it wrong nothing really happens, besides upsetting the bike and looking dumb. If you do it right then it’s fast and smooth.

You can practice by putting some small pressure into the shifter and then rolling off. It will slide into the next gear and you can get back on the throttle. Once you have the feel you just time your roll off with the gear shift.

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Yeah if you're using the clutch you are by definition not shifting clutchless. From the gearbox' perspective there is zero difference between tapping the clutch to unload the gears vs briefly rolling off.

A MIRACLE
Sep 17, 2007

All right. It's Saturday night; I have no date, a two-liter bottle of Shasta and my all-Rush mix-tape... Let's rock.

Or you just do it all sloppy and jerky like me most of the time

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

maybe I was not clear, the progression is to tiny clutch pressure and then none at all. But yes the bike will shift up with pressure on the pedal and rolling off the throttle.

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

This is reminding me of the time my clutch cable broke as I was riding home to New York from visiting Virginia. It broke as I was getting onto the Staten Island Expressway (notorious traffic) and I had to get to Queens. Clutchless upshifting was easy, downshifting was not, and how would you even accelerate from a stop, in traffic no less? It was pretty dicey--had to ride on the shoulder for short distances to avoid traffic (and to give myself time to downshift)--but I managed to make it home without stopping, until the traffic light on the offramp about 10 blocks from my home. This was on a 1978 GS750.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




If your clutch switch is mounted on the lever, you can (jerkily) accelerate by killing the engine, putting it in first, then pulling the clutch lever (even if it doesn't do clutch things) and hitting the starter.
If your battery is worth anything, you will get started.

Alternatively, and i don't know how hard it is, you can keep the engine running, push the bike roughtly to the speed it would have when idling in 1st gear, jump on and kick it in gear. I don't think i have that kind of coordination and i'll probably end up on the pavement with the bike next to me.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

LimaBiker posted:

If your clutch switch is mounted on the lever, you can (jerkily) accelerate by killing the engine, putting it in first, then pulling the clutch lever (even if it doesn't do clutch things) and hitting the starter.
If your battery is worth anything, you will get started.

That trick melted the started motor on my car once. Is it safe on bikes?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

What's safe anyway

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

I accidentally started my '82 320i (car) in gear once, and it lurched forward, so maybe it can be done... gingerly. GS750 from that era also weighs like 515 lbs. wet; not sure I could jump on a rolling saddle, even though I used to do that with a bicycle. (The jog to get something that heavy up to speed would also be dire... but so's the situation, I guess!)

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




RadioPassive posted:

That trick melted the started motor on my car once. Is it safe on bikes?
That risk is definitely there, but the typical starter motor can handle some abuse.
YMMV with this kind of off label usage. Depends a bit on how much load is on your starter motor already. With my SV it would be tricky. It starts reliably, but it doesn't really have starter torque to spare. With the FZR it would probably be easy.

You can't do start/stop traffic with it. Do it more than once every 5 minutes and you're likely to wreck the starter.

Cars don't have the clutch interlock bikes have. I've also done the '*lurch* whoops!' thing when starting my little twingo. I was distracted and didn't do my routine of wiggling the shifter, pushing the clutch and such.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

A car starter has a pinion on a throw-out arm and a big beefy solenoid. It will drive the car until the battery fails.

A bike starter is the smallest and lightest it can be, so the windings have no spare heat capacity, runs power through a $10 relay, and pushes torque through a starter sprag clutch that loves to fail if you breathe on it wrong. You can kill a starting system by just cranking for too long continually even in neutral.

I have been in that situation, I started the bike in neural and got it up to walking speed before crashing it into first. It is a horrible, horrible thing to do but not as horrible as trying to get moving on the starter motor - the permanent damage and long term issues you'll get simply aren't worth it, a tow truck is usually cheaper.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




The old 89 Jeep Wrangler I had as a teenager used to reliably stall and die on me, usually at the least opportune time, like the middle of an intersection. My solution was to put it in first and drive it on the starter through intersections.

Helpfully, the PO had already disabled the clutch switch on it, but not fixed the stalling issue.

The Goldwing, meanwhile uses the starter as a reverse gear. It worked well the one time I needed to use it so far.

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass
If I push the starter switch and hear the relay click, and see the system voltage dip, but the battery reads 12.8V, does that mean it's definitely time for a new starter motor or is there something else that could be up?

Bike in question is a ybr125. Kick starts immediately with no effort but I'd like it to be fully functional just because.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Put your meter on the starter motor lug, push the starter button, see if voltage is reaching the starter.

If it's not, your problem is likely the relay.

If it is, get some jumper leads, put the negative lead on the battery negative and the starter body, put the positive lead on the battery positive and then touch it to the starter lug. At this point if you have a healthy battery and a healthy starter, it should turn over. If not, the starter is poked.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




And get some of these to avoid loving around with probes that you gotta keep in place in impossible ways while pushing the starter button and keeping the meter from sliding off the seat/whatever.

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

LimaBiker posted:

And get some of these to avoid loving around with probes that you gotta keep in place in impossible ways while pushing the starter button and keeping the meter from sliding off the seat/whatever.



LOL because I have had exactly this problem.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
If you do it just right you can use the probe tip to bridge the relay contacts lol.

intentional or unintentional :colbert:

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires
My old Toyota truck has a button to override the clutch switch specifically so that you can start it in gear if you stall out on a steep hill or something

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

RadioPassive posted:

That trick melted the started motor on my car once. Is it safe on bikes?

"safe" no. But will it work? probally. At least one guy on the GSR loads his bikes by popping the plugs and using the starter motor to move the bike up into a trailer. The weak point there is the starter clutch.

I've had the clutch cable break on me. If you get the bike rolling in neutral, you can drop the bike into first, or second, and it'll go too.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Dang, just blew one of my fork seals on the Hornet. Based on the puddle I'm guessing most or all of the fork oil is gone. Other side looks fine.

Will I do any damage if I keep riding it for a bit while parts ship?

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




If its really dry, the various pieces of the fork internals will start rubbing against each other without oil, which is bad

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

RadioPassive posted:

Dang, just blew one of my fork seals on the Hornet. Based on the puddle I'm guessing most or all of the fork oil is gone. Other side looks fine.

Will I do any damage if I keep riding it for a bit while parts ship?

it’ll get on your rotors eventually and then you’ll be in for a real bad time

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

right arm posted:

it’ll get on your rotors eventually and then you’ll be in for a real bad time

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000
I have to say I've ridden a lot of bikes with oil contaminated brake pads and I've never really seen one that was unpredictably bad or really incapable of braking. All the ones I've seen got worse very slowly over time and almost all of them would still be able to do a panic stop if you just grabbed them a lot harder. I've never seen one that was like "oh my god no brakes"

Please do not interpret this as an endorsement of not fixing leaky forks.

FBS
Apr 27, 2015

The real fun of living wisely is that you get to be smug about it.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

I have to say I've ridden a lot of bikes with oil contaminated brake pads and I've never really seen one that was unpredictably bad or really incapable of braking. All the ones I've seen got worse very slowly over time and almost all of them would still be able to do a panic stop if you just grabbed them a lot harder. I've never seen one that was like "oh my god no brakes"

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Lol

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012


Literally this.

Personally I've seen loads of bikes crashed from compromised brakes, but it's never been one I was riding at the time.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Ye olde goldwing puked it’s fork oil all over the brakes literally the day I sold it and the brakes went nearly to zero. Literally as effective as just dragging your feet.

It was real bad.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Ye olde goldwing puked it’s fork oil all over the brakes literally the day I sold it and the brakes went nearly to zero. Literally as effective as just dragging your feet.

It was real bad.

Please tell me this was in front of a potential buyer.

I had a buyer drive from over an hour away to check out my ‘98 Shadow, and after musing wisely about Honda reliability the starter relay just went *click* and nothing happened. The guy did end up buying it at a discount :v:

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




epswing posted:

Please tell me this was in front of a potential buyer.

I had a buyer drive from over an hour away to check out my ‘98 Shadow, and after musing wisely about Honda reliability the starter relay just went *click* and nothing happened. The guy did end up buying it at a discount :v:

20 minutes before the guy showed up. I was wheeling it out to wipe it down and discovered a big puddle under the front wheel The guy did end up buying it at a discount :v:

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

I have to say I've ridden a lot of bikes with oil contaminated brake pads and I've never really seen one that was unpredictably bad or really incapable of braking. All the ones I've seen got worse very slowly over time and almost all of them would still be able to do a panic stop if you just grabbed them a lot harder. I've never seen one that was like "oh my god no brakes"

Please do not interpret this as an endorsement of not fixing leaky forks.


:iceburn:

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

20 minutes before the guy showed up. I was wheeling it out to wipe it down and discovered a big puddle under the front wheel The guy did end up buying it at a discount :v:

I read that as "wheeleing it out".

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
Is there a keyword I'm not familiar with that I can plug into amazon to get a 12v relay that isn't the size of a gameboy? I still want to move my phone charger to a custom ignition switched circuit right from my battery but I'm running out of creative ways to hide a giant automotive 12v relay.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Look for a 12V micro relay or automotive relay.

Something like this but probably less than 30 Amps: https://a.co/d/fwuuCnI

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice
I don't really know where to talk about this.
I did a track day yesterday on my Versys 300x. Amazing experience. Great coaches. Lots of training and track time, several hundred participants, all kinda of bikes and cool people camping out at the mountain track.

I was riding with their rookie group. Literally every session there was an accident, some major. My friend got bumped up to novice and also had the same thing happen.

I was focused on learning good lines, leaning, hanging off the bike and body language, telegraphing, passing, taking corners faster than I do on the road - to lean more. Speed..comes from doing all that with precision. Or like lean is a consequence of speed, I was juat going fast enough around corners to push my comfort on leaning. And starting to realize choosing some lines makes riding easier, less lean, you can naturally go faster...

I was not the slowest, despite speed not being my priority. At no point did I feel like I was going to crash.

I learned a lot.

Are the accidents normal? Like is crashing the bike the way to learn? Everyone's bike was hosed up, plastidiped, everyone's suit was torn up.

Like I snowboard, falling on occasion is part of it. Theres way less risk.

Bike fairings and repairs aren't cheap. Medical care is expensive. I would be so upset if I dropped my bike. Might not quit, but I would consider it a pretty bad gently caress up vs falling in snow who cares.

Am I in the wrong hobby? 😭

SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Jul 24, 2022

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP
Bleurgh, a simple sunday lever swap has turned into a pain in the arse. Brake lever was straightforward, but the clutch lever won't come off. Looks like the PO cross threaded the nut when they swapped over to shorty levers, so now when i try to undo the pivot bolt it loosens a touch and then the bolt just spins inside the nut. loving marvellous. Not a clue how to sort this as the nut is in a really awkward spot. Any ideas, or is a trip to a mechanic in my near future?

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Got any pics of what you're working with?

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP


You can even see what look like bits of stripped thread :/ This is on a Z400 btw.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

How much clearance is there on the bolt head itself? I'd probably clamp the nut with needle nose vise grips and try to pull up under the bolt while unscrewing it to work through the bad threads.

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Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP

opengl128 posted:

How much clearance is there on the bolt head itself? I'd probably clamp the nut with needle nose vise grips and try to pull up under the bolt while unscrewing it to work through the bad threads.

Bolt head is unhindered. Don't have any needle nosed grips, will see if I can borrow some

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