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I remember late 90s GMs needing to have the stock head unit kept in the signal chain when installing an aftermarket head unit. Ugh.
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Jul 19, 2022 22:57
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Technically not me or today but someone ran into the side of my wife on Thursday Fortunately it was pretty clear cut that the other party was at fault so I don't need to pay anything but it's probably going to take a while to get fixed. Wouldn't be such a problem normally but I was trying to sell that car
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Jul 23, 2022 06:34
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Fitted spacers to the S6, 20mm in the front, 15mm in the rear. Before:  After: 
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Jul 23, 2022 10:34
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Went to the track last night. Even on R888Rs, I couldn't really launch with any kinda of RPM. This was my best run, but my mother has TERRIBLE camera skills. At least it sounds good. https://imgur.com/azkqamC
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Jul 24, 2022 00:32
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I changed the oil in my responsible-mobile 2004 Honda CR-V the other day. I noticed that the sway bar end link on the left front was broken. I hate replacing end links so of course I bought four new Moog units. I replaced them this morning. This not-a-car-not-an-SUV has spent its entire life in Nebraska, so all of the end links had to be cut out with the angle grinder. I cut the end links off of the knuckles and then dropped the sway bars completely off the car for better access to the other ends of each end link. I burned many tiny little holes in the gym shorts I was wearing when I cut out the offending parts and managed to lose one of the bolts that holds the front left sway bar bushing bracket in place. I got a replacement at the hardware store for now but also ordered a correct unit from the Honda dealer. Is there any other "two-nut" job that is guaranteed to be more rear end pain than end links? I'm sure it is an easier task with acetylene, but I don't that. I had changed the oil in my wife's 2012 CR-V the day before and noticed something curious. Both vehicles have Honda K24 engines, but the oil filters are in different locations. They do use the same filter. On my wife's car, the oil filter is way down low. You have to lift the front end to get access to the little door in the under tray to access the low-mounted oil filter. On my older K24 the filter is mounted higher and further to the right of the vehicle. The easiest way to get the filter out is to reach in through the passenger (US) wheel well and grab the filter. I change oil with a shop air-powered vacuum device, so the filter location on my CR-V is much more convenient. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Jul 26, 2022 |
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Jul 26, 2022 00:03
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K24A vs K24Z 
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Jul 26, 2022 00:13
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Don't judge my welding too harshly. New metal I made the replacements from was quite a lot thicker, 1.2mm vs probabl, guesstimate around .7mm original. I think this situation would have been easier with .6mm wire instead of .8mm, but it's what I got. 
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Jul 26, 2022 06:33
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His Divine Shadow posted:Don't judge my welding too harshly. I'm judging your choice to work under that thing with a widowmaker jack.
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Jul 26, 2022 14:18
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Note the log
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Jul 26, 2022 14:22
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Well at least whoever finds you will have pre-split firewood as a bonus 
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Jul 26, 2022 14:24
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God drat, two rotor screws! Whoever built that thing REALLY didn't want the brake rotors to fall off in between the "install brake rotors" manufacturing station and the "install brake calipers" stop.
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Jul 26, 2022 15:05
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It's a 2006 Mazda, low mileage but so rusty in these areas. I kept finding more and I am realizing I should've bought these replacement panels and just cut everything out. Oh well I got sheet metal, time to fab.
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Jul 26, 2022 15:34
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PBCrunch posted:God drat, two rotor screws! Whoever built that thing REALLY didn't want the brake rotors to fall off in between the "install brake rotors" manufacturing station and the "install brake calipers" stop. I uninstalled those screws on my first brake job and never looked back. Yeah, it kinda sucks to fit the caliper over a loose rotor but not nearly as much as backing those goddamn seized to hell screws out
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Jul 26, 2022 15:40
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Panty Saluter posted:I uninstalled those screws on my first brake job and never looked back. Yeah, it kinda sucks to fit the caliper over a loose rotor but not nearly as much as backing those goddamn seized to hell screws out Loose rotor? I keep some open ended lug nuts in my toolbox drawer of brake-changing tools*. *Mostly drum brake spoons and spring wranglers, but also a couple varieties of piston compressors, hose pinchers, flare nut wrenches and the like.
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Jul 26, 2022 15:45
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PBCrunch posted:Is there any other "two-nut" job that is guaranteed to be more rear end pain than end links? I'm sure it is an easier task with acetylene, but I don't that. Two bolt exhaust flanges anywhere rust exists. Especially when they're threaded holes or studs fixed to one of the flanges instead of through bolted. gently caress sake, OEM, thanks for saving 2 seconds on the assembly line by adding 2 hours of suffering to my life. I through drill and replace them with either stainless bolts and brass nuts, or the cheapest grade bolts and grade 8 or stainless nuts so that the bolt twists off instead of the nut rounding.
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Jul 26, 2022 18:51
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I was thanking whoever last serviced the brakes on my wife's Elantra last week when I did the rear pads and rotors. The 2 screws holding them in had so much anti-seize applied that it oozed out from behind the screw as I retightened. Normally I hate that stuff but I'll forgive it here, didn't even have to use the manual impact driver.
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Jul 26, 2022 22:36
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  New tires for the Chaser, finally. It's more difficult than it should be to find high performance summer tires in both 205/55R16 AND 225/50R16 on account of the car having staggered wheels. All negative aspects of the steering is completely gone.
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Jul 27, 2022 02:06
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KakerMix posted:
Genuinely expected to see KO2s on it, white letters out.
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Jul 27, 2022 08:36
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VacaGrande posted:Genuinely expected to see KO2s on it, white letters out. Plus white-painted wheels.
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Jul 27, 2022 23:22
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I got some galvanized pipe and made a "lockout" for my rear TPMS. The radials will be here Friday, so I hope to get them mounted to test them on Saturday.
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Jul 28, 2022 00:20
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VacaGrande posted:Genuinely expected to see KO2s on it, white letters out. Darchangel posted:Plus white-painted wheels. and with a mild lift I bet it would be fantastic, but this Chaser stays 100% original under our care.  Finally picked up the Super Turbo from the shop that was 2~ hours away as well, a bit less special parked next to the Chaser but still cool as hell.
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Jul 28, 2022 05:38
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KakerMix posted:Finally picked up the Super Turbo from the shop that was 2~ hours away as well, a bit less special parked next to the Chaser but still cool as hell. bro what? a super turbo is an utter gem 
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Jul 28, 2022 09:22
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KakerMix posted:Super Turbo
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Jul 28, 2022 14:05
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Olympic Mathlete posted:bro what? a super turbo is an utter gem It is a jewel, but Tourer V Chaser is a crown jewel in comparison 
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Jul 28, 2022 19:58
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EvilBeard posted:I got some galvanized pipe and made a "lockout" for my rear TPMS. The radials will be here Friday, so I hope to get them mounted to test them on Saturday. Aren't those usually RF based and the transmitter located inside the tire? I have a feeling they're not going to work very well in steel pipe if so.
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Jul 28, 2022 22:08
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Also don't they start chattering with the ECM when they start spinning (and won't communicate when sitting still inside a pipe)?
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Jul 28, 2022 22:40
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PBCrunch posted:Also don't they start chattering with the ECM when they start spinning (and won't communicate when sitting still inside a pipe)? On my car, they don't active from the spinning. Many people on the Corvette forum have done the delete, but most use PVC. Some have used galvanized pipe, so I'm hoping it works. I didn't really trust PVC with 40PSI in it (specs say it should, but it's not supposed to be for pressure) . If I can use the galvanized, it's a little safer. Worst case scenario, I have PVC, I can redo the whole works in pvc. LG Motorsports makes a bypass box that you can basically "turn off" tpms when you're at the track, but it's like $370 for a problem that $40 in pipe can fix. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Jul 28, 2022 |
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Jul 28, 2022 22:52
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I did a trial fit of the Volvo in the garage since I’ll be using the EP3 all weekend, and it juuuuuuuust fits. 
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Jul 29, 2022 00:06
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That is such a good feeling. I about did a cartwheel when I realized I could fit my car, my fiancee's car, my motorcycle, and our bicycles all in our garage. Jealous of those "high" ceilings, too.
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Jul 29, 2022 00:23
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You could put some stance on the S2000 from the looks of it. Get a little more space around the car and style points of course.
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Jul 29, 2022 01:12
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DoubleT2172 posted:Just saw that MCM started working on their Super Turbo on the last episode, cool crossover of you getting one and seeing them work on one! I'm glad they have their new garage because it seems they're getting back into wrenching videos. The weird novelty/challenge/whatever videos were getting a bit too frequent for my tastes
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Jul 29, 2022 02:31
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Spent the last few days removing rust and making new parts. The whole underside of the sill plate got replaced in the end. Insides got painted with weld-thru primer before attaching them. Once it cures I'll be doing some body work, I will use Dinitrol ML (penetrating rust proofer) from the inside and outside, then cover that in underbody sealer, Iwas recommended by the guy who failed my car in inspections to use Dinitrol ML before applying sealer. Higher up I'll use the type of sealer you can paint over though.  I need to buy some putty/body filler, thinking I should go with the epoxy stuff and not polyester.
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Jul 29, 2022 07:28
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^ That's the one thing I should probably check on considering I'm doing the same poo poo. I've got my various anti-rust potions but at some point I'm going to need to fill and I honestly don't know which order I should be doing stuff in. My brain says coat the bare steel with your potions and THEN fill, sand, paint... But I genuinely don't know if that's the wrong way to do it.
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Jul 29, 2022 12:02
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Imperador do Brasil posted:I did a trial fit of the Volvo in the garage since I’ll be using the EP3 all weekend, and it juuuuuuuust fits. The R looks so good in someone else's garage.
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Jul 29, 2022 13:03
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Olympic Mathlete posted:^ That's the one thing I should probably check on considering I'm doing the same poo poo. I've got my various anti-rust potions but at some point I'm going to need to fill and I honestly don't know which order I should be doing stuff in. My brain says coat the bare steel with your potions and THEN fill, sand, paint... But I genuinely don't know if that's the wrong way to do it. I think it makes sense to use the penetrating thin stuff first, to drive out any moisture and get to any possible rust particles missed from nooks and crannies, since the ML stuff can stop and neutralize small bits of rust. Using just the sealer might seal in water and miss rust issues. I am sure I did not get all the rust despite spending two days on it. So it feels like extra insurance.
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Jul 29, 2022 13:15
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With rust, you have two options: converters or encapsulaters. Converters are acidic and turn the rust into a coating (from oxide to phosphate). Encapsulaters are like Por15 or Chassis Saver paints that keep the rust from having any more oxygen. I personally prefer the converter route, as encapsulators generally fail because oxygen always finds a way. I use SEM converter, then the Cavity Wax (ML is Cavity Wax) . Only on the inside though. Cavity Wax never cures, so it's not something you can really topcoat over. You should neutralize/convert/remove the rust, then epoxy the bare metal. Then you body work, use a sealer if need be, then topcoat. Neutralizer and Converter  Rust Removers/Etchers 
EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Jul 29, 2022 |
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Jul 29, 2022 14:10
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I sure thought 20mm was enough spacer on the front of my Lexus to keep the tips of the wheel studs from contacting the backs of the wheels. After several jaunts to nearby places I finally took the car out on the highway yesterday. And immediately had to turn back because the steering wheel was shaking in my hands. I came home and was able to sneak a feeler gauge in between the wheel spacer and the wheel itself. Why I didn't try this before, I do not know. I guess I thought the reliefs in the back of the wheel were deep enough. They were not. I can't really put more spacer on the front without going past flush and into poke, so I did something I really didn't want to. I cut the dogs off the ends of the front wheel studs. With them out of the way, no more wheel stud to back-of-wheel contact. Also, I got the air conditioning compressor in my 1993 Toyota Pickup spinning for the first time. The system is full of computer duster spray and ester oil. You can keep up with the (lack of) excitement in the AC thread. Big thanks to Motronic for help reaching this breakthrough.
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Jul 29, 2022 15:18
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EvilBeard posted:With rust, you have two options: converters or encapsulaters. Converters are acidic and turn the rust into a coating (from oxide to phosphate). Encapsulaters are like Por15 or Chassis Saver paints that keep the rust from having any more oxygen. I did brush down everything bare metal with phosphoric acid, which is basically what the converters are. I buy 85% and dillute myself.
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Jul 29, 2022 15:51
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I've got some Bilt Hamber goodies. I actually sent them an email asking what would work best for insurance purposes against rot:quote:For clean steel, electrox followed by epoxy-mastic, and then dynax to supplement. Electrox is their zinc heavy treatment quote:Electrox protects steel from corrosion with both barrier and electrical functionality. Coating steel with Electrox produces a surface film containing over 90% metallic zinc. Once cured, the tightly packed zinc particles establish an electronically conductive pathway, enabling cathodic protection of the underlying steel; exactly the same principle utilised in hot zinc galvanising. Epoxy mastic is just a nice solid barrier on top of that and Dynax is their own internal wax treatment. Deox C/gel is a paint on leave to soak and then wash off rust converter which seems to work remarkably well, I just can't use it for everything unfortunately so I've got some of the Hydrate 80 as well which seems to convert and then make a hard, almost waxy coat over the top which you can then coat over. My question above was mainly about filler though. At what point should you use it? Is filler on bare steel then coated with all the above goodies going to make things less effective?
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Jul 29, 2022 16:12
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| # ? May 15, 2024 07:42 |
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Paid over $3000 to the dealer (that's what I get for going to the dealership) for a bunch of maintenance and repairs on the Accord Type-R, and it didn't even feel that much better to drive 
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Jul 29, 2022 16:46
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