|
Aware posted:Picking up the 2022 WRX RS tomorrow, haven't had a Subaru since my first car, a 1985 Leone. It was red so it went pretty fast.  My first car was a Leone as well (maybe an 89? I can't remember), but we called it a GL. Eventually the clutch died and it died, too. It probably could have been fixed if I did something about it but I was young and dumb and poor. Just turn the music up and hope for the best. Does the RS mean anything, or is Subaru just cashing in on the Impreza RS namesake?
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2022 03:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 05:51 |
|
|
Upgraded trim level I think I dunno. It's been fun so far. My Leones clutch lasted but I let the coolant leak out and spent 4 weeks doing the head gasket with my dad cause we didn't know anything way back when. I somehow had a cable with the old-school din plug on the rear of the radio so I wired up 3.5mm input and add some Altec Lansing PC speakers that rattled around the rear seat headaoace. Young and dumb. Loved that car.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 09:53
|
|
|
Toe Rag posted:
Australian premium manual model - comes with extra luxury items, bit more safety gear and improved stereo system (Wow, just looking at the pricing that the first time I can recall no sub 40K option for a WRX)
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 10:37
|
|
|
Oddly enough no parking sensors on the manual but the camera system seems like a good step up from what's in my 2015 golf.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2022 23:53
|
|
|
Does anyone know what kind of pins the 54 pin engine harness plug uses? Ballenger doesn't have the data for them e: I guess these are it https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1627&category_id=339&manufacturer_id=45 BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Jul 20, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2022 23:35
|
|
|
I'm replacing the suspension on a 2008 Impreza Outback Sport and I'm having a hell of a time getting the ball joints out of the knuckles. I'm replacing the lower control arms and struts, and the new LCAs come with ball joints so I'm not worried about saving the current ones. I have the bolt on the knuckle out, a pry tool in that little gap between the halves of the socket, and have sprayed the whole thing down with PB Blaster. All the Youtube tutorials suggest tapping the LCA off using a block of wood or second hammer, but I did that for a while today and didn't notice any real progress.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 02:43
|
|
|
If you don't care about the ball joints then buy a pickle fork for $15 and send it with a big hammer
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 02:59
|
|
|
I like to hit things with a hammer while prying, the shock helps pop things loose. A big whack on the side of the lca is really good for getting the ball joint out of the taper. Also I have one of these pullers https://www.company23.com/532 a nasioc guy made his own version of that and was selling them years ago, i think TiC even was producing them for awhile.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 03:16
|
|
|
jamal posted:A big whack on the side of the lca is really good for getting the ball joint out of the taper. This. If they didn't come out your hammer wasn't big enough or you didn't' swing it hard enough. Especially if you already tried other things and sprayed them down with good penetrating oil. This is standard great salted north stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 04:21
|
|
|
You can also try heating up the area where the two connect with a MAP torch before smacking with a hammer. The benefit of the hammer and/or torch is that it lets you vent your frustration at the same time you're fixing it. The ball joint on the front right of my Impreza was super stuck when I did it so it ended up being torch and air hammer, although I didn't try hitting on the side, I probably could have gotten a lot more force than trying to swing in the limited space of the wheel well.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 05:48
|
|
|
jamal posted:I like to hit things with a hammer while prying, the shock helps pop things loose. A big whack on the side of the lca is really good for getting the ball joint out of the taper. Bought a bigger hammer and hit it from the sides before going back to the top but it didn't help much, I got the thing down maybe 1mm, just enough to see a slight ring of non-rusted material. That tool looks useful, but unfortunately they're closed through tomorrow. I found this knockoff on Amazon and hopefully I'll have it by Thursday: https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-78620-Subaru/dp/B01JBJFK3C 22 Eargesplitten posted:You can also try heating up the area where the two connect with a MAP torch before smacking with a hammer. The benefit of the hammer and/or torch is that it lets you vent your frustration at the same time you're fixing it. The ball joint on the front right of my Impreza was super stuck when I did it so it ended up being torch and air hammer, although I didn't try hitting on the side, I probably could have gotten a lot more force than trying to swing in the limited space of the wheel well. If it comes down to it, would something like this do the job? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-TS8000KC-Premium-Torch-Kit-336638/205683985 I've never used a torch before, obviously I would try to keep it away from/shield the axle, but is there any worry of getting the hub bearings too hot?
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 00:45
|
|
|
Edit: Weird double post.
daslog fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Jul 27, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 01:04
|
|
|
If you can see it moving a bit, then you shouldn't need anything more than some liquid wrench and more hammer blows. However, can you clarify if you are trying to get the ball joint out of the knuckle (I think you are doing this) or trying to remove it from the control arm? Some of the posts above are talking about removing it from the control arm, but I don't think that's what you are trying to do.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 01:06
|
|
|
Yeah, I'm trying to remove it from the knuckle. It took a long time of hitting it just to see that slight movement, plus I still have to do the other side as well, so I'm definitely open to things that will make this quicker.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 03:29
|
|
|
ishikabibble posted:How overrated is the whole bit about the Crosstrek being 'slow'? Specifically with a stick. So I bought the Crosstrek. A 2023 Base model, to be exact. I like it. It's comfy. When do I get my complimentary flannel?
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 03:41
|
|
|
They're not complimentary anymore.  Did you get the stick shift? Or did you get saddled with a cvt?
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 03:57
|
|
|
DrChu posted:Yeah, I'm trying to remove it from the knuckle. I have always done some variation of this. https://youtu.be/Mm-3m2fY1Tw Make sure you put the lug nuts on to keep the rotor in place.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 13:32
|
|
|
DrChu posted:Yeah, I'm trying to remove it from the knuckle. The knuckle is a taper. If you've moved it at all its free of the taper. Time to look around and see what else is going on.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 14:29
|
|
|
I wouldn't be surprised if over enough time it got a bunch of other crap built up in it to cause friction even once there's a little movement. Maybe take a penlight (or use a headlamp, highly recommended) and see if you can see any other poo poo crammed in there. Seriously, even during daytime a headlamp is a good idea when working under a car. For a long time I thought the lights in the garage would be enough but not dealing with the shadows makes things so much faster. I'm sure people with more experience have figured that out already but if you don't use a headlamp you should.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 17:03
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:I wouldn't be surprised if over enough time it got a bunch of other crap built up in it to cause friction even once there's a little movement. Maybe take a penlight (or use a headlamp, highly recommended) and see if you can see any other poo poo crammed in there. About 15 years ago my buddy had a headlamp on when we were camping/hiking. He was the first in the group to have one and we all made fun of him for being a nerd. Then we had to set up camp in the dark. The next time we all had head lamps. Those things are great.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2022 12:44
|
|
|
I've had to replace Subaru CV axles a few times now. Once in 2014, once in 2020, twice in 2021. They all had the dumb roll pin design that has to be lined up perfectly. The first two times it took me days, and granted I wasn't nearly as good of a mechanic then. The third time I forget how long it took but it was maybe a few hours and I had some help getting it in place and lined up. The most recent time was the first time I used a headlamp and while I already had the car supported and the wheel off, it took 45 minutes because I could actually see what I was doing underneath the car. It has gone from being a fix that I dread doing to being something I can knock out in barely more time than an oil change. I never used headlamps before my outdoorsy mechanic pal gave me one and now I use them all the time.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2022 19:35
|
|
|
Use a 4mm phillips head screwdriver to make sure the hole is lined up and then the roll pin get inserted on the side that has a slight champher.
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2022 01:24
|
|
|
Myron Baloney posted:Goddammit rod bearing knock in my 09 Forester X that the dealership put a new short block in under warranty for the same thing 60k ago. I just changed the timing belt 10k ago so it's not the tensioner (checked it anyway yesterday). Time to hunt for an engine I guess. I was meticulous with oil changes and keeping the oil level perfect. What the gently caress else could I have done? Haha the resolution to this is funny. I go to a place recommended by a friend (Farris Auto in Cottage Grove WI), they planned to get me a matching long block, but when they pull the engine they call me and say the noise I heard might have been the cracked flex plate. I go WHAT? They say yes, one bolt was backed partway out, one next to it was loose, big crack between the two holes. They say that's a new one to them. The head gaskets were leaking on both sides, so they recommend gaskets and a new flex plate - it might be relatively cheap after all! I had the short block replaced under warranty 60k miles ago at a well-known dealership on the west side of Madison, so in that many miles their head gaskets blew and it appears they didn't torque the flex plate down. I guess what they say about the care that goes into warranty work is true, at least there. Then Farris calls again and they apologize for getting my hopes up, they pulled the oilpan and found bearing bits so it's back to getting a long block and spending more money. Now I have the car back, running fine and a 4 year warranty on the engine. Farris was really helpful and they know their stuff. Myron Baloney fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Jul 29, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2022 01:38
|
|
|
ishikabibble posted:So I used to have 0 flannel shirts and 0 subarus Then I had 1 subaru and 2 flannel shirts Now your post made me count again. I have 2 subarus and 8 flannel shirts
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2022 12:02
|
|
|
simplefish posted:I used to have 0 flannel shirts and 0 subarus I have.... uhhhh...... 7 Subarus and no flannel.
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2022 12:44
|
|
|
I went to the classing dyno today, so all of these are pretty directly comparable. I set the K24 rev limit to 7800 to cut calculated average whp. I give you: Bone Stock KPower K24 swapped BRZ, pump 91  Full bolt-on first gen BRZ, pump 91  Stock plus Cleib catback second gen BRZ, pump 91  e: half-rear end overlay of K24 vs full bolt on BRZ 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Jul 29, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2022 18:28
|
|
|
Piston recommendations please for a 257, will be running a stock map. The biggest upgrade is going to be arp studs
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2022 20:34
|
|
|
ishikabibble posted:So Should be in the NPR tote bag along with the SPCA stickers.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2022 00:24
|
|
|
CRUSTY MINGE posted:They're not complimentary anymore. I managed to find a stick which honestly amazed me. I live kinda in the sticks so when I went and visited the nearest major city to me I was only intending to test drive some stuff, but lo and behold there was one on the lot available for purchase at MSRP. The stick is... iiinteresting. I haven't driven many different manual cars but it feels a bit hard to drive smooth. The throttle response seems super nonlinear, I can barely hear the engine inside the cabin, and there's something like a ~2k drop in revs between 1 and 2?? It also feels weirdly notchy sometimes when putting it into gear, but only sometimes. I think folks on the XV forums say that will go away with use though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2022 07:23
|
|
|
daslog posted:I have always done some variation of this. https://youtu.be/Mm-3m2fY1Tw Tried this but I didn't really have a solid piece of metal big enough to wedge in there and have any effect. The file I did have ended up in similar condition as the one in the video.  This tool arrived and after figuring out how to use it and one near disastrous first attempt it worked  It was a pain getting the ball joint off the tool though  The first attempt I did not thread the tool onto the ball joint stud enough, and ended up stripping off the threads on the bottom of the stud. I cleaned up the threads, ripped the boot off and used pliers to keep it from rotating and put the tool on as far as I could, and this time it worked. After that I did the other side, but I took the time to really clean up the stud beforehand, that side came off on the first attempt. I got one of the new control arms in and all bolted up. I'm still struggling with the second, its hard to line the ball joint up exactly since everything's at a slight angle, so by the time I'm trying to push it in it gets stuck a little sideways. Called it a day before I got too fatigued and started making more mistakes.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2022 01:31
|
|
|
I have a 2018 manual crosstrek and the shifting has never felt great
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2022 01:42
|
|
|
Subaru manuals are always a little weird. It's a consistent complaint from people new to Subarus. You get used to it, but that 2.0l doesn't make a ton of power so 1st, 2nd, 3rd are taller than you'd expect coming from an older Toyota or Honda or an 80s domestic pickup with stick throw measuring in feet. They need to wring every ounce of power out of the 2.0l so you get taller gears. The stick with the 2.5 in my Outback feels pretty reasonable, but it's my 4th Subaru so maybe I'm just used to it CRUSTY MINGE fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Jul 31, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2022 01:46
|
|
|
Munkeylord posted:Piston recommendations please for a 257, will be running a stock map. The biggest upgrade is going to be arp studs What’s the use case? If you are running a stock map, why ARP studs?
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2022 17:31
|
|
|
 the 10 Forester XT, hello 22 Legacy Limited.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2022 02:51
|
|
|
Got a bit of a scare when I saw the Oil Pressure Warning light turn on briefly in the Forester XT. Pulled out the dipstick and found it bone dry. Filled it up and it turned out it needed about 2.5 qts of oil out of a manufacturer listed capacity of 4.2 qts. Is it normal for it to burn that much oil in the 1.5 months since I last topped it off? Does temperature have a factor because it's been gently caress off hot (well gently caress off hot to me is 90+ with high humidity and brutal sunshine in Jersey) here? What about oil age because it is due for a time-based oil change? It's been 6 months since the last change as I don't drive enough to put 5000 miles in that time frame although I could be close since I started doing hybrid work but the trip odometer lost count when I took out the battery to replace the alternator. In any case, it there anything I need to be alarmed about? It just really caught me off guard as I'm still getting a feel of when I should be checking the oil level so I've been doing it roughly monthly. However, shortly after the last oil change in February, the oil level stayed in the nominal range in the first few months so I got somewhat lax with how frequently I checked the oil. That's why I'm thinking it may be temperature and/or age but I do want to make sure it's not a sign of something more serious.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2022 16:22
|
|
|
Could be burning it, could be leaking it. I just had what I thought was a couple quart per oil change burn on my daughter's 08 with 200k miles. Turned out to be a leaking oil pressure sender. It was leaking at high RPMs only, and therefore the leaked oil was being blown right off the bottom of the car on the highway so it didn't even really look like it was leaking. The only reason it was noticed was because the pan was being preemptively replaced (looked like it was ready to rot through). It has made it to nearly it's next oil change since this repair and it's still right where I filled it to with absolutely no discernable oil loss. Obviously you need to check your oil more frequently (or it WILL be burning that oil soon enough) but don't resign yourself to "it's burning it and can't be reasonably fixed". Motronic fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Aug 3, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2022 16:32
|
|
|
Typically Subaru says a quart per oil change isn't uncommon. At 2.5 quarts, you're either leaking or burning. How's it look underneath? Is it marking territory (pavement oil stains)? Check the front cover seal, rocker arm covers, front/rear main seals. If those are dry, you're burning it, which means piston rings, valve seals, etc. Paying a shop to rebuild it would cost more than getting an ebay engine. Next oil change you might put thicker oil in (5w30 over 0w20), but that's a band-aid level temp solution. I would get a compression test done, that will give you an idea of how hosed the rings are, if it's not a seal leak. /\ yeah, sensors too. It's almost like Subaru engines hate being lubricated.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2022 16:43
|
|
|
Subaru used to consider up to 1qt/1000 mi to be okay. Not sure if they've changed that with the FA/FB engines, though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2022 17:35
|
|
|
Edward IV posted:Got a bit of a scare when I saw the Oil Pressure Warning light turn on briefly in the Forester XT. Pulled out the dipstick and found it bone dry. Filled it up and it turned out it needed about 2.5 qts of oil out of a manufacturer listed capacity of 4.2 qts. I'd keep a careful eye on it. You can do your own oil consumption test easily by parking on a level spot, patiently filling, adding oil a little bit at a time until it's exactly on the fill line. The engine should be cold when you do this (i.e. left overnight). Write the exact mileage down. Check it every day until the oil reaches this fill line on the dipstick and do the math to figure out how many miles it took. Edit: my son (Subaru master tech) tells me that they measure it over a fixed period of time and then they do the math out by measuring everything. Either way works. daslog fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Aug 3, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2022 17:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 05:51 |
|
|
That seems like a lot of oil loss, I thought I was burning a lot when I got the oil light at 7k miles (I was putting on 600+ miles per week and hadn't gotten a chance to take it in on time). I'll pitch in to check your PCV valve but I can't imagine that much oil blowing through there. In my case replacing the PCV took it from losing 1-2 quarts over 5k miles to no perceptible loss over 3-4k miles since I did it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2022 00:26
|
|