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Collateral Damage posted:Running dry for a few seconds won't harm anything. I gave myself a week and supplies necessary to do it, as a last resort putting it all back together the way it was. Pretty good motivator
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# ? Jul 28, 2022 11:13 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 09:17 |
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I'm kind of winging it. Getting the computer plugged into a keyboard or monitor is hard without it being in it's proper place due to desk cable management. So I hope I will not have to troubleshoot too much. Nolgthorn fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Jul 28, 2022 |
# ? Jul 28, 2022 14:48 |
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Radiator fans spin up to full blast and then back to zero every second or two. It's like the voltage disappears and comes back again over again. Anyone know why that's happening? I have all three attached to a single header on my quadro. Also anyone recommend rgb software? The MSI Mystic Light program seems to be very limited in it's options and Openrgb doesn't appear to recognize my motherboard. Thanks very much for your help. E: The fans gain and lose power even if I set it to a "power preset" eg. 100% always. Nolgthorn fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Jul 28, 2022 |
# ? Jul 28, 2022 18:34 |
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Remind me again why you aren't using motherboard headers for the fan control? I can't remember the reason. I know you don't have temp probe headers on the mobo but you should still be able to use fan headers and BIOS fan control. Otherwise its hard to say because I've never used the quadro.
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# ? Jul 28, 2022 18:53 |
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Solved: It was because the splitter I was using has one labeled "CPU" where at least one fan needs to be plugged in.VelociBacon posted:Remind me again why you aren't using motherboard headers for the fan control? I can't remember the reason. I know you don't have temp probe headers on the mobo but you should still be able to use fan headers and BIOS fan control. Otherwise its hard to say because I've never used the quadro. I figured I might have an easier time controlling them using the aquasuite software, the temp sensor is there and the software lets me easily create fan curves.
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# ? Jul 28, 2022 19:06 |
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Indiana_Krom posted:Setting your fan curves off the coolant temperature is exactly how you want to run a water cooler. The important bit is to set the ramp up appropriately; allow the coolant to reach an operating temperature before you start to increase the fan speeds so at normal room temperatures roughly 36C is a reasonable point to begin the ramp. Basically anything less than 10C over ambient is too aggressive and will just make the fans noisy for little benefit, coolers won't seriously dissipate heat until they are a fair amount warmer than the surrounding air and how efficiently they do so depends on how big the temperature difference is. My own fans "curve" is a flat 35% (~500 RPM, completely silent) until the coolant reaches 36C and then it is a straight line to 100% at 50C, the thermal mass of the coolant keeps the fan speeds from rising or falling rapidly and generally even with 500W of load the coolant settles at about 40C with the fans only reaching 50-60%. I have my pump at 40% and ~1400 rpm. Cinebench. With the fan curves suggested the computer is dead silent, like I can't hear anything just the pump which is beautiful really. The cpu maxed out in temperature at about 80c, it went past 90c the last time I ran this test so there is an improvement. But maybe the fan curves should be turned up a bit? The coolant never went above 44c. When I'm not hammering the system it looks like my cpu sits in the 60c range. Nolgthorn fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Jul 30, 2022 |
# ? Jul 28, 2022 19:47 |
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Nolgthorn posted:I have my pump at 40% and ~1400 rpm. What is your ambient temp? Also, what fans are you using? They look like they have large gaps in the frame for air to escape and not push through the radiator.
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# ? Jul 28, 2022 20:37 |
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Akasa SOHO AR AK-FN108-KT03 120mm - x3 I realized after I bought them they might be air flow fans rather than strictly air pressure fans, but the ratings were pretty good either way. I've also read it doesn't make too big a difference. It might be something I change later. Are they ok? I don't think there is space around them. Might be auxillary fans, blowing air in weird directions inside my case. In any way I'm not really trying to min max, just get everything running to a comfortable operating efficiency. The numbers for which I have no idea. Are mine poor? This is a threadripper 3970x and it spits fire. So I'm happy with the results I'm just wondering if they should be improved or are are ok as they are.
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# ? Jul 28, 2022 20:54 |
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Nolgthorn posted:Akasa SOHO AR AK-FN108-KT03 120mm - x3 I think the best process for fan speed stuff is to set them all flat %s, start turning it up, and see where it's actually audible to you in a quiet room. Make a note of that % and then keep going up, make another note of the % at which you consider it louder than you would tolerate while gaming or rendering or whatever. Set the floor for the fan speed 5-10% below the audible level, and set the max to just before the point at which you consider it too loud (or have it plateau there). Have the morphology of the fan curve however you like in there, probably an increasing arc like y=x^2 kinda thing because you do want to let the coolant heat up to a point - it makes the transfer of heat to the air more efficient (requires less fan speed/noise). Looking at your fan curve, I would experiment with making it a little more of an aggressive ramp up but it's really not that big of a deal - figuring out the acoustic preferences like I mentioned I think is more important. Myself and the buddies I know who run custom loops target around 40C for the coolant temp, allowing it to go higher in synthetic tests, usually not really much higher than that 44C you mentioned. The threadripper does change this of course, I don't know the TDP or the max recommended temp but for sure with that single radiator and that CPU you'd expect to have the temp exceed 40C under extended time at full load. I would guess that the temps you described in your earlier post (80s and dipping into the 90s) are perfectly safe. The fans blowing air in 'weird directions' in the case shouldn't matter too much so long as your net intake is sufficient and your GPU isn't exhausting somehow right into the CPU radiator (it isn't). e: Looked at your photos again - I have a fractal case also and my front fans are moveable up and down, like where you screw them in is actually a vertical channel on each side; if you can I would drop the fans so that the top fan (of the two front fans) isn't blowing as much into the side of the top radiator and rather is able to push cool air across the surface of those radiator fans. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Jul 28, 2022 |
# ? Jul 28, 2022 22:11 |
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Build addendum: Water cooling is hard work, it's expensive, and I dunno if it's really very practical. This was a positive experience and I'm glad I did it, there have been no problems so far since finishing. The amount of time was extensive researching how it works, what I needed, learning about what's been going on in the watercooling market so I didn't buy snake-oil. This isn't working from a customer perspective. I know there is some effort by companies to release online configuration tools. But they're really not good and I wouldn't trust them to suggest what I would really want to have. Part of the problem points at who it seems to all be marketed to. If I just want the best parts, that do what I want them to do without issues, at the best price. I have to filter through a ton of products that are just strictly bling or seemed like they were designed to look good on a display shelf. The idea of opaque coolant is a big example, or coolant with neat effects in it. Luckily I stumbled across people saying don't buy that stuff. Even EK seems to be selling parts that are nickel plated in areas that aren't visible, like nickel plating internal parts why? The honest answer is so that they can show pictures of the thing while it's taken apart. Even at the cost that it has a ever so slightly higher chance of corrosion and damage to other things in my expensive system. There doesn't seem to be anyone out there making parts with a no nonsense attitude about it. Actually aquacomputer, seems to be doing a lot of no nonsense watercooling, I wish I had taken a closer look at them before I started but I was suffering from research fatigue at that point. In fact in the end I didn't even have all the facts, my radiator almost didn't fit and I needed an additional controller because of the temperature sensor. I dunno. Maybe I'm blowing all of this out of proportion but that's the experience I had. Using rigid tubing was the second most time consuming part of the build, but it was also the most rewarding, had I not done it I think I would have had a worse experience. Because it was the only part that I really enjoyed. Was pretty hard to do, getting bends in the right places is nearly impossible. Trying to work out bends in 3d space with no easy way to measure anything. It's a 45 but it's also at a small angle on the Z axis too so what's the length got to be and so on can really mess with your head. It ended up being a lot of it was by eye and reheating the material repeatedly. Eventually succumbing to "heat it up and put it into place so it fits properly." I still don't think the tubes are in exactly the place I want them, it's really close. The result is really good, using only a fraction of the cooling ability of this loop I'm able to keep the coolant at a steady 40 degrees. The cpu is a very hot component and it sticks at about 60-75 while the computer remains dead silent. To a point of paranoia about whether the pump or fans are even running. That's what I wanted so it's an expensive success. I would complain slightly about the pump from ek as it's pretty ugly. The rgb around the outside isn't diffused at all, doesn't match anything else in the case. I suppose that's because it's from the velocity line, their older one. But it is still the most current tube shaped pump/res they sell. Maybe I should have gone with one of the flat ones, maybe I'll change that later. EK doesn't do a very good job of communicating how to mount anything. Can I just put one of those flat ones on top of any bracket? There's a picture of the smallest one on a normal bracket, can the bigger one go onto normal brackets also. Not sure I'd recommend watercooling to anyone after everything, almost everyone I know can't get their printer to work. On the other hand when all is said and done I did upgrade the computer, cooling performance, and noise. Computer is way heavier now, too.
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# ? Jul 30, 2022 14:31 |
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Kind of weird, with the threadripper. I couldn't get the idle temp to go below 60 while watercooling. Based on a suggestion online, I changed this power setting from 100 to 99 and now idle is 50. That's a very unexpected effect I'm not sure what to think of it.
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# ? Jul 30, 2022 15:46 |
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Nolgthorn posted:Kind of weird, with the threadripper. I couldn't get the idle temp to go below 60 while watercooling. Based on a suggestion online, I changed this power setting from 100 to 99 and now idle is 50. That's a very unexpected effect I'm not sure what to think of it. I literally know nothing about AMD processors but I wonder if it does something different at 100% like maybe it won't allow itself to automatically overclock (amd chips do this right) unless it sees it's at 100% already. Just a thought.
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# ? Jul 30, 2022 21:10 |
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Intel are the ones who keep hardware overclocking the same processors every year, so it drains more power and emits more heat. Effectively selling server grade processors in laptops, because they haven't come up with anything new in years. Throttling it to a tiny fraction of the theoretical limits. Ripping off customers just so they can stick "latest i9" on their marketing material. Not to start an AMD vs Intel war. No it's just like, at barely under 100% power the chip emits way less heat. Benchmarks suffer marginally. So I guess they pushed it as far as they could. Everything would easily be within spec at 100% I just think I'd rather companies be transparent about this kind of thing so I can opt for the cooler temp.
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# ? Jul 31, 2022 01:37 |
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Hey question for the thread - how often are you 'supposed' to replace your coolant? I assume the anticorrosives and such lose potency over time?
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# ? Jul 31, 2022 06:48 |
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i had a 24/7 watercooled machine, went ~6 years without replacing the water and it was still in pristine condition when i finally drained it when i was switching out gpus that said, i read online that gunk can build up real quick if you let your water idle for long durations when you shut your pc down, so most people say ~2 years between replacing your coolant? idk if that still holds with a decent coolant instead of just water tho.
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# ? Jul 31, 2022 07:13 |
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Truga posted:i had a 24/7 watercooled machine, went ~6 years without replacing the water and it was still in pristine condition when i finally drained it when i was switching out gpus Thanks, yeah I use the cryofuel stuff with no color or anything. How long do you think is a long duration? My PC is off every night. Guessing you meant like weeks?
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# ? Jul 31, 2022 07:29 |
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Your coolant will also generally last a lot longer if you keep light away from it. So no clear blocks, no clear tubes and a sealed up case. Usually the problem you will have after running a loop like that for multiple years is evaporation, especially in soft tubing loops which are slightly porous the coolant will gradually evaporate and you will have to periodically top off the reservoir (every ~6 months or so).
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# ? Jul 31, 2022 12:24 |
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I ran my loop for 3 years with nothing more than occasionally topping it up. Just like Truga, the reason I changed it was replacing the GPU which required me to drain the loop anyway. I use distilled water and Cryofuel.
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# ? Jul 31, 2022 16:37 |
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Distilled water and one drop of biocide, never had gunk in 3+ years. If you ever have to empty the loop, do it in a gallon bring the disposed water to the a Recycling center so they can get rid of it propely.
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# ? Jul 31, 2022 18:08 |
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VelociBacon posted:Thanks, yeah I use the cryofuel stuff with no color or anything. How long do you think is a long duration? My PC is off every night. Guessing you meant like weeks? yeah, like if you go on a 1 month vacation or something but if you're using cryofuel it shouldn't matter, since i'm sure there's plenty of poison in it to prevent stuff growing
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# ? Jul 31, 2022 20:39 |
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Doesn't EK specifically market cryofuel as non-toxic and biodegradable?
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# ? Jul 31, 2022 21:32 |
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I'm settling with my settings/ramps and am overjoyed with these results. I'm still not sure it is worth the effort and money, but now that I'm here, this is outstanding. I guess the problem is there's no way to have these results without watercooling. At 100% cpu it peaks at 85, but doesn't go higher than that, max operating temperature is 95, so it's all perfect really. It used to go past 95 and throttle. Nolgthorn fucked around with this message at 09:34 on Aug 2, 2022 |
# ? Aug 2, 2022 09:31 |
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Indiana_Krom posted:Doesn't EK specifically market cryofuel as non-toxic and biodegradable? I have found that recent batches of Cryofuel left a white layer of residue that looked like calcification. I use Polypropylene Glycol based coolant now (since I have pets). evilmaniac fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Aug 20, 2022 |
# ? Aug 20, 2022 08:19 |
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evilmaniac posted:They do ! Yeah I have had that residue in my reservoir also, it definitely isn't calcification since warm water and a rag is all it takes to remove it. Most of it will even dissolve back into the coolant if you just top it up.
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# ? Aug 20, 2022 12:19 |
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Working on watercooling an Hyte Revolt 3. The connection from the gpu to the cpu is gonna be tough.
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# ? Aug 22, 2022 14:40 |
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Coredump posted:Working on watercooling an Hyte Revolt 3. The connection from the gpu to the cpu is gonna be tough. You micro watercooling builders have guts
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# ? Aug 23, 2022 08:46 |
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And here was I, thinking that the copper tubing to my gpu in a normal case was gonna be a pain, I guess I've got it good in comparison.
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# ? Aug 23, 2022 10:23 |
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I know I was just posting recently. My current build uses this pump and configuration. What I wanted while I was planning the loop was the Quantum Kinetic FLT (flat reservoir), but I couldn't figure out a reasonable way to attach it to those 140mm fans. The only bracket available is one for 120mm fans. EK doesn't do a very good job communicating how to set this stuff up. Unless I'm going crazy they only recently added this photo to their site. It's that same 120mm bracket mounted from the bottom, which would fit in place of my reservoir. So now I'm considering pulling this apart again and rebuilding it with the ports on the cpu reversed, again, the entire radiator flipped around, again, all how I originally planned it.
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# ? Aug 23, 2022 13:10 |
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Nolgthorn posted:I know I was just posting recently. Assume you're doing this for aesthetics? Seems like a lot more trouble than it's worth.
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# ? Aug 23, 2022 16:45 |
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VelociBacon posted:Assume you're doing this for aesthetics? Seems like a lot more trouble than it's worth. That's the dilemma. I really don't like this pump, just because the rgb isn't diffused at all, and so as long as it's plugged in I can't really do anything with any of the rgb in my case, seems so petty. But also, I find it all interesting. A new watercooling challenge.
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# ? Aug 23, 2022 18:04 |
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Nolgthorn posted:That's the dilemma. I really don't like this pump, just because the rgb isn't diffused at all, and so as long as it's plugged in I can't really do anything with any of the rgb in my case, seems so petty. But also, I find it all interesting. I don't see it but maybe you hid it, did you include a stopcock and a drain in the loop? Might make it easier to drain.
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# ? Aug 23, 2022 18:21 |
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There's a drain on the pump. Yeah I'll hold on to my money this time, I think ek might have enough.
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# ? Aug 23, 2022 22:09 |
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Decided my Fractal Design Nano S is too big for an ITX case and went shopping for something smaller. Bought a SSUPD Meshlicious. Very nice case at first fondle. Solidly built, pretty configurable. I very much appreciate that the panels have metal pegs going into replaceable plastic clips rather than having plastic pegs that break after a few removals. Supports a 280mm rad in the front though you have to double check the exact fit of your intended radiator. I had intended to use an EK Quantum radiator but after some cardboard templating it turned out to just slightly too long so I went with an Alphacool instead which is 9mm shorter. Well see if this comes back to bite my rear end later. GPU and block choice will basically come down to what fits because the space between the PCIe slot and the radiator fans is a mere 15cm (~6 inches). Unfortunately founders edition cards are unobtainium nowadays or it would be the obvious choice as the EK blocks for those have the connections on the short edge. An EK reference 3080 water block is 12.4cm wide and should work assuming it sits about 1cm over the actual slot. Power connectors might also be an issue, may have to see if someone makes angled PCIe connectors.
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# ? Aug 26, 2022 13:26 |
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VelociBacon posted:Assume you're doing this for aesthetics? Seems like a lot more trouble than it's worth. I'm doing it. :| I bought a new inline temperature sensor from aquacomputer, a 240 flt tank from ek sans the pump (I'm just going to dig the d5 out of my current tank), and a few other parts. I've got a monday off coming up so I suspect that weekend I'll be pulling it apart. Nolgthorn fucked around with this message at 08:56 on Sep 7, 2022 |
# ? Sep 7, 2022 08:45 |
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Got the Alphacool DC-LT pump and their Solo Top along with an in line temperature sensor. Combined with a swivel fitting from EKWB it just about clears the edge of the fan on the radiator. The Alphacool radiator has a nice feature that it has a fill port on the opposite side from the ports, so my plan is to run tankless and just fill the loop through the radiator, essentially using the radiator as my reservoir. Only slight annoyance is how the power cable for the pump comes out on the same side as the outlet, which isn't the most aesthetic look. Any suggestions?
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# ? Sep 11, 2022 10:57 |
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I am taking a bit of vacation this week and my gf is traveling so decided it is a good time to strip down, clean and rebuild my loop. Holy poo poo I didn't remember it was this much work
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# ? Sep 14, 2022 19:12 |
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Sorbus posted:I am taking a bit of vacation this week and my gf is traveling so decided it is a good time to strip down, clean and rebuild my loop. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ubw5N8iVDHI
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# ? Sep 15, 2022 08:17 |
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VelociBacon posted:Remind me again why you aren't using motherboard headers for the fan control? I can't remember the reason. I know you don't have temp probe headers on the mobo but you should still be able to use fan headers and BIOS fan control. Otherwise its hard to say because I've never used the quadro. Late to the party, but the Quadro/Octo are best used when you 1) need additional fan/pump headers 2) at a higher amperage rating than the typical motherboard header 3) to use in combination with additional thermal sensors/your mobo doesn't have a thermal sensor header 4) to set exotic fan curves and create synthetic sensors in the software or 5) because you're using a bunch of other Aquacomputer parts and want to take advantage of the ability to tie them all together on one controller. I used the first 4 reasons in my Ncase build, since I get more headers than an ITX board provides, including a temp header that my board doesn't include, along with a higher current rating so I could run a DDC pump on a PWM header and use those sensors to do things like create a dT/Ambient reading that I could set my fan curve by. The pump thing was actually a really nice bonus since I didn't realize I could do it until I looked at the spec sheet and realized Aquacomputer specced their headers for 2A when the motherboard headers are typically only specced for 1A. Then it was crimping tool and solder iron time. edit: Where the Quadro/Octo really shine is enterprise applications where you'd be using some of Aquacomputer's enterprise grade pumps and the telemetry those feed back to the controller, and the larger array of fans you might have in such an environment. Warmachine fucked around with this message at 08:54 on Sep 15, 2022 |
# ? Sep 15, 2022 08:48 |
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It wasn't so bad after all, changed some things and managed to eliminate annoying resonance. 360 + 360 and an external 420 rad.
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# ? Sep 15, 2022 16:33 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 09:17 |
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It's really annoying that every AquaComputer RGBpx connector is only rated for 90 LEDs because I'm using Lian Li Unifans with 32 LEDs per fan, and I have 2 chains of 3 which is 96 LEDs each. I'm trying to not use the Lian Li LConnect hubs/software because their software is garbage, but I haven't figured out a solution with AquaComputer hardware yet. I'm wondering if those extra 6 LEDs will really cause any issues or not. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Sep 15, 2022 |
# ? Sep 15, 2022 19:42 |