Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



The water pump I got for my SVX doesn't actually fit, I had been told that the 2005 Legacy GT pump would fit but while the bolt pattern fits it's too shallow for the timing belt to fit. OEM is NLA, so the three options I have are Import Direct (O'Reilly house brand), US Motor Works (never heard of them) and GMB (I have a lot of their idlers and stuff). GMB is the most expensive but is my first inclination. However, I've never used a non-OEM water pump so I don't know what brands to look for.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

22 Eargesplitten posted:

The water pump I got for my SVX doesn't actually fit, I had been told that the 2005 Legacy GT pump would fit but while the bolt pattern fits it's too shallow for the timing belt to fit. OEM is NLA, so the three options I have are Import Direct (O'Reilly house brand), US Motor Works (never heard of them) and GMB (I have a lot of their idlers and stuff). GMB is the most expensive but is my first inclination. However, I've never used a non-OEM water pump so I don't know what brands to look for.

Have you looked on rockauto.com?

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Yeah, Rockauto has the US Motor Works and GMB.

E: Looks like I can get a Gates pump from JEGS but someone in the Subaru thread was saying when I was looking for a water pump for my Impreza that the Gates impellers are kind of flimsy and not confidence-inspiring.

22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Jul 29, 2022

Forneus Rex
Jun 9, 2021

Nothing nice.
Turns out it didn't matter what that thumping noise was, I was driving around with my frame in two pieces. :stonklol:

Tai-Pan
Feb 10, 2001
What in the holy hell is this crap?
My radiator on the 240z I am trying to get running (sat for 15 years) was spraying water out of some pinholes so I pulled it off and noticed the ENTIRE coolant system is full of some kind of poo poo.

Now, I am aware that hard water can create scale and build up, but the thermostat housing was absolutely full. I pulled another 1/4 cup of this crap out of the passage with my finger. Has anyone ever seen buildup this bad before? What could have caused it? Its crunchy like limestone grit with tiny pebbles in it.

What is the best way to flush it out without running the engine?

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Tai-Pan
Feb 10, 2001
Here is the intake.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Now that's a custom title I've not seen in a long time.

Assuming disassembly for hot tanking isn't on the table, I'd remove anything remotely easy to get at and clean it by hand - thermostat housing, water pump, etc. Probably disconnect the heater core from the rest of the system and flush it with water and compressed air. There's the Prestone 'flush and fill' setup available for something like $4 that includes a T adapter that will let you hook a garden hose up to the heater lines and use it to push water into the system. In that state just getting things moving so that you can drain it out of the radiator is going to be a win.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008






Tai-Pan posted:

What in the holy hell is this crap?
My radiator on the 240z I am trying to get running (sat for 15 years) was spraying water out of some pinholes so I pulled it off and noticed the ENTIRE coolant system is full of some kind of poo poo.

Now, I am aware that hard water can create scale and build up, but the thermostat housing was absolutely full. I pulled another 1/4 cup of this crap out of the passage with my finger. Has anyone ever seen buildup this bad before? What could have caused it? Its crunchy like limestone grit with tiny pebbles in it.

What is the best way to flush it out without running the engine?



Hmm might be due to galvanic corrosion, there's a bunch of dissimilar metals inside an engine and cooling system, so this can occur when using straight water. It's a lot of gunk though, so that might not explain all of it, idk.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Len posted:

My partner drives a 2009 nissan versa and it's been acting up in regards to starting. On saturday we took it to the store, when we went back out to the car it wouldn't start. Put the key in, everything lit up, but turning it did nothing. She called roadside assistance to get it towed, i had a buddy take me home to get my car and i took her and our groceries home then went back to wait for the tow truck. Getting back it started no problem

Yesterday same thing, she went to leave work and the car wouldn't start. This afternoon it started right up

Google says it could be the key, a coworker says the starter, and another says alternator.

I don't know dick about cars so I figured asking here would be a good idea

It's likely a starter issue as the other replies mentioned but check your battery connections, especially the battery to ground cable. I had this issue on a car years ago.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Tai-Pan posted:

What in the holy hell is this crap?
My radiator on the 240z I am trying to get running (sat for 15 years) was spraying water out of some pinholes so I pulled it off and noticed the ENTIRE coolant system is full of some kind of poo poo.

Now, I am aware that hard water can create scale and build up, but the thermostat housing was absolutely full. I pulled another 1/4 cup of this crap out of the passage with my finger. Has anyone ever seen buildup this bad before? What could have caused it? Its crunchy like limestone grit with tiny pebbles in it.

What is the best way to flush it out without running the engine?



Looks like rust and lime scale to me. Sitting for 15 years produced lots of corrosion in the cooling system. Water in the coolant reacts with iron even in the absence of oxygen.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Tai-Pan posted:

What in the holy hell is this crap?
My radiator on the 240z I am trying to get running (sat for 15 years) was spraying water out of some pinholes so I pulled it off and noticed the ENTIRE coolant system is full of some kind of poo poo.

Now, I am aware that hard water can create scale and build up, but the thermostat housing was absolutely full. I pulled another 1/4 cup of this crap out of the passage with my finger. Has anyone ever seen buildup this bad before? What could have caused it? Its crunchy like limestone grit with tiny pebbles in it.

What is the best way to flush it out without running the engine?



I'm gonna go with that being mechanic in a bottle (i.e. stop leak). There's just too much of it for anything else. Do you know the history? Are you looking at something that needs a head gasket?

Depending on what kind it can be pretty difficult to flush and basically impossible for a rad or heater core that is parallel flow.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



It's some effort to deal with the radiator leaks as Motronic said.

You're going to need a new radiator. Remove it & stick a garden hose in the lower rad hose & sluice it out.

Then stick it in the upper / thermostat housing & leave it running until you can maybe drink what's coming out.

Then install one of these:

https://www.acehardware.com/departm...rc=ds&gclsrc=ds

...turn the heat on full hot (if it's solenoid-activated, you may need to have the ignition on) and pray that you can flush out your heater core.

Then install the new radiator and flush it out until you can drink from it. Make sure the heat is on full.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Is that a radiator where 1/3 of it is cooling for oil or etc? Maybe the boundary material broke down.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
Make sure you flush the heater core from both directions. Definitely replace that radiator. The heater core is a very strong candidate for replacement, but the level of effort is so high for that you probably want to do anything and everything to avoid it.

I would flush thoroughly with the HVAC controls set to full heat, remove the thermostat, then put some CLR in the cooling system, let the car run a little while to warm it up and distribute it, then flush again.

You probably want to look carefully for the freeze plugs and try to verify their integrity.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
with that level of poo poo buildup? the whole system is suspect.

Get a new radiator built.
Replace heater core.
Stock up on hoses, coolant pump, etc.

Flush the gently caress out of the block without the thermostat installed. probably pull the coolant pump and any associated water passages.
Secondarily if there's this much mineralization, the headgasket is probably hosed in some form or fashion near the coolant passages between the block and head.


VelociBacon posted:

Is that a radiator where 1/3 of it is cooling for oil or etc? Maybe the boundary material broke down.

Nah you get thick milkshakes with that.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Len posted:

My partner drives a 2009 nissan versa and it's been acting up in regards to starting. On saturday we took it to the store, when we went back out to the car it wouldn't start. Put the key in, everything lit up, but turning it did nothing. She called roadside assistance to get it towed, i had a buddy take me home to get my car and i took her and our groceries home then went back to wait for the tow truck. Getting back it started no problem

Yesterday same thing, she went to leave work and the car wouldn't start. This afternoon it started right up

Google says it could be the key, a coworker says the starter, and another says alternator.

I don't know dick about cars so I figured asking here would be a good idea

I'm going a little different direction in it could be an issue with the shifter position switch. Next time it happens see if you can shift to neutral and try starting it or jostle the shifter harder into park and try again.

Casu Marzu
Oct 20, 2008

2010 Mazda3, my speakers started making a terrible popping noise off and on and it's pretty clear that they're dying. I don't really care about having a working stereo system, I just need to be able to drive to the office one or two days a week without going crazy.

If I just pull the fuse for the audio system, will that hurt anything in the short/medium term until I can get it into a shop?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Casu Marzu posted:

If I just pull the fuse for the audio system, will that hurt anything in the short/medium term until I can get it into a shop?

Absolutely nothing, pull the fuse and enjoy the silence.

Casu Marzu
Oct 20, 2008

IOwnCalculus posted:

Absolutely nothing, pull the fuse and enjoy the silence.

:tipshat: Thank loving god, I thought I was going stab my ears out on the 15 minutes back from the office yesterday.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me

Casu Marzu posted:

2010 Mazda3, my speakers started making a terrible popping noise off and on and it's pretty clear that they're dying. I don't really care about having a working stereo system, I just need to be able to drive to the office one or two days a week without going crazy.

If I just pull the fuse for the audio system, will that hurt anything in the short/medium term until I can get it into a shop?

Can't you just turn the radio off? When looking for fuses, see if there is one for amplifier and pull that one. You might be able to keep your clock and stuff that way.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
This isn't a question but it was last year... Far from alone if you've done this.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AsBszT9-D8

(Don't put Australian market calipers on a USDM vehicle. They don't bleed right that way.)

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



It took me eight months to figure out that my neighbor's brakes on his '04 Silverado 2500HD were fucky because he & his son did exactly this on the rear axle, except they were the correct calipers for his truck and were designed in such a way that you could install them on the wrong side & everything would bolt right up, even the flex hose. It was insane.

And no, it took an internet search before I noticed that the bleed screws were on the bottom.

Took me less than an hour to swap & bleed them.

Lord, I felt stupid.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I think that was the thread that I was thinking of when I posted this, lol.

I only noticed it because I had two left calipers on my XJ for a while and had to remember to put the right one upside down before bleeding it.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Dumb question(s) ahead: I'm probably going to go the route of putting in modern car seats in my Dart (with seat belts integrated in the seat) and I'm trying to see what's available at non-extortionate prices. Junk yards here in Sweden have a tendency to do insane mark-ups on many parts (to the point that they almost cost as much as new parts), and there are almost no pick-n-pulls. Many of the car seats have electric seats, memory function and air bags. The only thing I'll connect will be the power for the power seats, and I'm assuming this will be fine(?). As an example I've found a full interior from an E93 for the price of what one seat would cost me otherwise. The only problem is that it's for a right hand drive car.

First question: Is it dumb to put E93 seats in the car assuming that I'll reinforce the floor?
Second question: In theory it shouldn't matter if the seats are from a RHD car other than the memory buttons (that I'll not use anyway since I assume they need to communicate with the car anyway) being on the passenger side, right?

I've looked at E46 seats as well but was quoted $1k for 2 that had split seams and poo poo. The other options would be Cadillac seats from what I've seen available so far.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PainterofCrap posted:

It took me eight months to figure out that my neighbor's brakes on his '04 Silverado 2500HD were fucky because he & his son did exactly this on the rear axle, except they were the correct calipers for his truck and were designed in such a way that you could install them on the wrong side & everything would bolt right up, even the flex hose. It was insane.

And no, it took an internet search before I noticed that the bleed screws were on the bottom.

Took me less than an hour to swap & bleed them.

Lord, I felt stupid.

I remember those years. The calipers actually have an "L" and "R" cast into them - but nobody notices it.

The caliper brackets are slightly different from side to side as well IIRC, but they will of course bolt up wherever.

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice
What would cause fuel to pool up inside the intake manifold of my 1970 BMW? I've triple (quintuple) checked my timing and completely disassembled my carb every time I try to start it it just turns over and over (I know I'm getting good spark also). Every time I've pulled my carb off there's a couple mm of fuel sitting inside. I don't know enough about the mechanisms of what would pull the fuel in to the combustion chamber to troubleshoot.

(I may have asked this question already but I'm kind of at my wits end here)

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Weber or Solex? Engine? Model?

The float is set too high, so the float is not pushing the needle against the inlet seat, so you’re getting fuel overfilling the bowl, Sorcerer’s Apprentice- style.

There are measurements to set the float. You have to remove the carburetor, position it inverted on a bench with the bowl off, and set it according to specifications.

Typically this involves bending the little metal tang between the hinge loops on the float, that contacts the underside of the float needle until the correct distance between the edge of the bowl rim on the carburetor and the underside of the float (opposite the hinge & needle!) is reached. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to bend the tang, do not push it down against the needle.

If you have rebuilt the carburetor, or have a rebuild kit, there’s usually a cardboard jig with the measurements stamped into one face & sometimes one edge of the jig is stepped to ease getting the height correct. Should be plenty of online resources.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Jul 31, 2022

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice
Weber / M10 / 2002.

I'll look into a rebuild kit, it's probably time anyways. It feels though that no fuel is getting into the chamber at all, like my plugs are not smelling like gas when I pull them (if that's a thing).

Duuk
Sep 4, 2006

Victorious, he returned to us, claiming that he had slain the drought where even Orlanth could not. The god-talkers were not sure what to make of this.
Found out today that Hyundai/Kia are involved in a class action suit over engine oil consumption.
https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit...il-consumption/

Supposedly this is a common issue with their engines? Although the suit only lists certain vehicles, chances are the same engines are used in all their cars?
Would that include the 1.5l T-GDI sold in the i30/Ceed in Europe?
Would it include the Smartstream G1.6T (G4FP) in the i20N?

Because if so, poo poo.

Naively entertaining the thought that it might not include the i20N, anything else in that car likely to poo poo the bed spectacularly? If I bought it, I'd want to keep it for many years.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Duuk posted:

Found out today that Hyundai/Kia are involved in a class action suit over engine oil consumption.
https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit...il-consumption/

Supposedly this is a common issue with their engines? Although the suit only lists certain vehicles, chances are the same engines are used in all their cars?
Would that include the 1.5l T-GDI sold in the i30/Ceed in Europe?
Would it include the Smartstream G1.6T (G4FP) in the i20N?

Because if so, poo poo.

Naively entertaining the thought that it might not include the i20N, anything else in that car likely to poo poo the bed spectacularly? If I bought it, I'd want to keep it for many years.

Maybe but the one I've recently dug into was the theta engine. It's a poo poo show. Like I could buy my cousins blown up 07 kia for $500 to swap and flip but people need engines so badly that the price has gotten ridiculous.

Do you have one and are worried or are you looking at one? If you're looking walk away. They're currently in deny everything to prevent more class actions and recalls mode.

Be extra careful if used. Kia corporate told my cousin that as the second owner she got half warranty for milage. That 100k limit was now 50k iirc. It popped just over 100k but "you weren't a little over warranty you 50k past it"

I've got this thread bookmarked after kramering in here with kia wtf questions.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

The class action lawsuit turned that into a lifetime engine warranty, so long as it doesn't show signs of neglect (and they can show proof of maintenance).

Your cousin got hosed. Kia knows they can get away with this poo poo, so they try to every chance they get. If your cousin still has the car, https://ksupport.kiausa.com/ConsumerAffairs/Request/NewRequestThetaClass/

More info here.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Aug 1, 2022

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

STR posted:

The class action lawsuit turned that into a lifetime engine warranty, so long as it doesn't show signs of neglect (and they can show proof of maintenance).

Your cousin got hosed. Kia knows they can get away with this poo poo, so they try to every chance they get. If your cousin still has the car, https://ksupport.kiausa.com/ConsumerAffairs/Request/NewRequestThetaClass/

More info here.

Cousin with the help of her dad, and me providing technical support went a few rounds with the local dealer, nada. Then a few rounds with kia the corporation. It was looking good there for a bit. Not an instant no, sent maintenance records etc. Got elevated to a higher level and that's when the half warranty poo poo came up. Got a firm NO.

They're talking to a lawyer but the lack of updates makes me think its over. I think they're going honda next.

honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Aug 1, 2022

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

Duuk posted:

Found out today that Hyundai/Kia are involved in a class action suit over engine oil consumption.
https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit...il-consumption/

Supposedly this is a common issue with their engines? Although the suit only lists certain vehicles, chances are the same engines are used in all their cars?
Would that include the 1.5l T-GDI sold in the i30/Ceed in Europe?
Would it include the Smartstream G1.6T (G4FP) in the i20N?

Because if so, poo poo.

Naively entertaining the thought that it might not include the i20N, anything else in that car likely to poo poo the bed spectacularly? If I bought it, I'd want to keep it for many years.

I have a 1.6t in my 2018 Elantra GT Sport and it seems I’m maybe a quart or so down after 2500mi, with 41k on the car. Bought new, always changed the oil at 3k with full synthetic other than a few changes at 5k after long easy road trips. Carmax will give me 4K less than I paid for it new but it’s almost paid off and I love this drat thing so I’ll be annoyed if it ends up being an issue. The stories I’ve been reading make me look at that tiny Lexus hybrid SUV thing (nx200 maybe?) as a daily.

SpaceCadetBob
Dec 27, 2012
Put a deposit down on a car this morning. Got a call a few minutes ago from the dealer saying they took another deposit “at the same time” and want me to switch from cash purchase to financing or they are going to have to sell to the other person.

Am i being scammed?

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Yes.

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:

SpaceCadetBob posted:

Put a deposit down on a car this morning. Got a call a few minutes ago from the dealer saying they took another deposit “at the same time” and want me to switch from cash purchase to financing or they are going to have to sell to the other person.

Am i being scammed?

Yes in the sense that they are trying to extract more money out of you. Dealerships are financial institutions that happen to sell cars, they want you to finance.

Personally I'd tell them to eat poo poo and get your deposit back. But that's me.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

To be clear, even if they’re telling the truth and refusing to switch means you lose out on buying the car, you’re being scammed.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

bird with big dick posted:

To be clear, even if they’re telling the truth and refusing to switch means you lose out on buying the car, you’re being scammed.

Agree with this. I'd ask for them to email you with the details of what they're trying to express and then make a formal BBB complaint with that documentation.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



2008 Honda Ridgeline - P0456 Powertrain Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (very small leak, check fuel cap, piping, etc)

Popped a CEL a couple weeks back, it was the above code as pulled by my Torque app & OBD II reader. I tried fixing it with buying a MotoRad MGC-817T Fuel Cap, installed and reset the CEL. About 4-5 days later after some driving to cycle the testing system the code came back.

What are next steps for me to check if I'm trying to troubleshoot this at home? And/Or is this something I should have a competent Honda mechanic look at?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Yeah 100% get that in writing "so you can go over it with my spouse"

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply