What did you do to your car today? My car isn't fast, it's only 10s in the 1/4 mile

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > What did you do to your car today? My car isn't fast, it's only 10s in the 1/4 mile

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PBCrunch: Jun 17, 2002; Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me

evobatman posted:

Paid over $3000 to the dealer (that's what I get for going to the dealership) for a bunch of maintenance and repairs on the Accord Type-R, and it didn't even feel that much better to drive

Maintenance sucks. Spend all your money on sick mods.

# ? Jul 29, 2022 17:08

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# ? May 15, 2024 18:05

His Divine Shadow: Aug 7, 2000; I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Olympic Mathlete posted:

My question above was mainly about filler though. At what point should you use it? Is filler on bare steel then coated with all the above goodies going to make things less effective?

I think it depends on the filler, epoxy filler is water proof, so it should be as good as a primer. I prefer to start with the primer though, then the penetrating stuff applied from inside and on the underside, let that dry a day or two before applying the undersealer. That's my plan anyway. I just put the epoxy putty over the epoxy primer to mask the weld area.

# ? Jul 29, 2022 17:17

StormDrain: May 22, 2003; Thirteen Letter

His Divine Shadow posted:

I think it depends on the filler, epoxy filler is water proof, so it should be as good as a primer. I prefer to start with the primer though, then the penetrating stuff applied from inside and on the underside, let that dry a day or two before applying the undersealer. That's my plan anyway. I just put the epoxy putty over the epoxy primer to mask the weld area.

This is what I did as well. Epoxy primer, body filler, regular primer, paint.

I primered both sides of the sheet metal before installing, then grinded off areas where I was spot welding and used weld thru primer as a touch up before welding.

After it was all together I used predrilled holes in the rockers and used a flex nozzle with cavity spray in it, then put plastic plugs in those holes. Sprayed wax in the doors.

# ? Jul 29, 2022 18:21

EvilBeard: Apr 24, 2003; Big Q's House of Pancakes; Fun Shoe

I got my radials in and got them mounted. They poke a bit, but they're just for the track. It'll be fine when I put widebody fenders on eventually. Had to go the pvc route with my tpms lockout, but everything seems to work.

# ? Jul 30, 2022 20:45

Admiral Bosch: Apr 19, 2007; Who is Admiral Aken Bosch, and what is that old scoundrel up to?

I got new tires(nothing fancy, hard to find anything in the true performance vein for the stock wheels) and did an oil change today then cleaned up and went for a spin.

# ? Jul 31, 2022 02:29

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Nice lookin Bird!

Decided to try and figure out why my sub quit working. Sub ohmed out fine, nothing coming from the amp, nothing on the RCA cables. Yanked the bezel to get to the stereo.

Hmm... may as well fix the dead odometer (it's still counting, but early-mid 00s Fords usually lose power to the display). Usually that's touching up some traces on the cluster and slapping it back in. Did that, had a bright odometer for about 1 minute, then dead. Tried again, same result. Tried again, completely dead odometer. Tore the cluster down, realized I lifted a trace. Fawk. Managed to bodge it enough to get a dim odometer, which is better than nothing.

I'll probably get a junkyard cluster and be a bit more careful touching up the cold solder joints, and swap the EEPROM over to keep the correct VIN/mileage/idle hours.

Oh, sub crapped because of cheap lovely RCA cables that got damaged entirely too easily. Those who have dealt with having an aftermarket double DIN stereo in a Ford 1.75 DIN opening know what a pain in the rear end it is to pull the stereo (entire bezel comes off in my case, from headlight switch to the passenger vent, and the stereo is mounted to it).

# ? Jul 31, 2022 03:36

BlackMK4: Aug 23, 2006; wat.; Megamarm

Finally tracked down my loving oil temp issue. I had a hunch it was ground related, then I came across a beautiful reply to a thread on HPAcademy by some saint named Chris250 which is a quote from Andy Wyatt of Adaptronic that is worth reading in its entirety.
https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/sensor-ground-chassis-ground-question

quote:

Andy Wyatt (Adaptronic) has just went into depth about this on the Guild group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/737420992943719/permalink/1437864329566045/

'ECU grounding

I've seen much "debate" about the best way to ground ECUs, so I thought I'd take the time to explain some of the theory, because none of it is that difficult to understand.

It is, however, complex, with several separate considerations, and when you see how they all interact you'll see that there is an optimal solution which is the same for most cases.

First of all I'm going to discuss the separate problems we're trying to avoid, and then how to analyse them and optimise the ground layout for each of the problems. The two main problems are ground offsets due to common impedance paths and magnetic field noise.

Ground offsets are often not very well understood, which is a missed opportunity because they are quite simple to visualise if you draw a diagram.

To analyse a system for ground offsets, you first need to draw a diagram of the system. Then remember that every wire has resistance, which means that you're going to get a voltage drop across the wire, depending on the current flowing through it. Since we're talking about the context of ECU grounding, we can look at the voltages from the ECU's perspective and predict what can go wrong due to the voltage drops.

In this first example, the installer has grounded the ECU to the engine and also to the battery. You might ask why would anyone do that, but some people do because I find myself explaining to people why it's bad. During cranking, a lot of current flows through the ground strap between the engine and the battery, so there's a voltage drop between the engine and the battery. This in turn induces current in the ground wires going to the ECU; or in other words, the ECU shares some of the starter motor current. Exactly how much depends on the relative resistances between the ECU grounds and the ground strap; if the ground strap is in good condition then not much; but otherwise people have blown up tracks in the ECU by doing this. So obviously this case is bad!

This second example is one that I used to use when I interviewed support engineers to work for us, but I guess now I'll have to think of another question to evaluate people. It's actually a mistake made by Mazda in the factory NA6 MX5 / Miata loom; they fixed it on the next model (the NA8). The sensor ground is externally grounded to the engine, as well as to the ECU. The ECU is grounded to the engine also. We know that as the injector duty cycle increases, the average ground current of the ECU will also increase, and therefore so will the voltage drop between the ECU and the engine. The ECU ground will be sitting at a slightly higher voltage than the engine ground, so any sensors connected to the engine ground instead of to sensor ground on the ECU, will read a lower voltage. In the case of coolant temperature, it means that as injector duty cycle increases, the voltage seen by the ECU on the coolant temperature input reduces and the ECU believes the engine is at a higher temperture. This is fairly easy to spot in logs; you can look for noise on inputs such as coolant temperature, throttle position etc, but it causes problems for obvious reasons.

In this last example, the car has coil-on-plug ignition. The coils are grounded to the engine, and the ECU is grounded instead to the battery. As the engine speed increases, the alternator charge current increases and so the voltage drop between the engine and the battery increases also. Let's assume the grounding to the ECU from the battery is also substandard, which means that as injector duty cycle increases, the voltage drop between the ECU and the battery also increases. We now have a double effect causing the ECU ground to sit higher than the engine ground. The coils however are grounded to the engine, which means that when the ECU is outputting zero Volts on its ignition output, the coil sees a positive voltage (equal to the voltage drop described earlier) on its input. Some coils with built-in ignitors only need 0.7V to trigger, which means that in extreme cases you could even get the coils to trigger by themselves, while the ECU is outputting zero volts on its ignition output. Of course this spark would be at a completely unpredictable engine angle and on a fragile engine like a rotary could destroy it very quickly. This is how important good ground hygiene is!

In all of the examples I just gave, the problem is common impedance paths. We have one path (eg a wire) which has multiple things referencing it (eg injector current feeding through, but offseting the voltage for the coolant temperature sensor). The way around this is star earthing. You pick a single point for your ground, and reference all grounds to there. With what I've just described, it doesn't really matter whether this point is the engine or the chassis or the battery negative, but there are other factors which I'll explain later.

Sensors, if they have the ground isolated from the sensor body (for example TPS, pressure, temperature sensors), they must be grounded to the sensor ground on the ECU, not the engine ground. The reason for this is as given in the second example above; if you ground the sensor to the engine ground, then its output is going to be offset by the ground current times the ground resistance. This is why ECUs have dedicated sensor ground wires.

If the sensor's ground is not isolated from the body of the sensor and it has to screw onto the engine, for example many Nissan cam angle sensors, narrowband oxygen sensors and many knock sensors, then you don't have a choice; you have to choose the star point ground at the engine. Because the engine is so thick and low resistance, the actual point on the engine doesn't matter too much; but often this point is on the inlet manifold or cylinder head on production cars.

The next issue that we need to discuss is magnetic field noise. This is one of the two forms of electrical interference that can be generated by electrical circuits. This is actually an entire discipline called EMC, or electromagnetic compatibility, and spark ignition engines have their own standard they must comply with (it's called CISPR12 if you're curious).

Magnetic fields are created by currents flowing in a loop. We all remember from school that current has to flow in a circuit, but they probably didn't tell you that currents flowing in a loop create a magnetic field. The higher the current, and the higher the loop area, the greater the magnetic flux. Increasing the number of turns also increases the flux which is why ignition coils, fuel injectors, transformers and so on have many turns of wire. The main consideration we have to worry about with magnetic field noise is high frequency noise; and the noisiest source of magnetic field interference in an ECU system is the high voltage side of the ignition system. If you consider the circuit of a typical direct fire system, the high voltage is generated at the output of the ignition coil. The current travels along the ignition lead (if there is one), down the centre electrode of the spark plug, where it jumps the gap via ionised air and down to the ground strap of the spark plug. From there the current flows into the cylinder head or rotor housing, and it has to find its way from there back to the secondary of the ignition coil. On most modern coils this connects through the power ground terminal of the ignition coil. Therefore, to minimise electrical interference, this loop area has to be as small as possible. If you ground the ignition coil to the battery, you have a problem because the high voltage current has to flow out of the head, to the grounding strap to the battery and then back from there to the ignition coil. The loop area is very large compared to if the coil was grounded to the head, and this creates electrical interference. This interference can get into crank angle sensor wiring and cause triggering problems, but more on that later.

On old style, 2-pin ignition coils, the secondary of the coil is connected not to ground but to the positive 12 Volt supply to the coil. Therefore there needs to be a path from this 12V supply back to the cylinder head. Without any other changes, this would have to go through the battery and then from the battery negative to the engine through the grounding strap. That is a large loop area. So in such systems normally they would have a capacitor that connects between the 12V supply to the coil and ground. The capacitor can be thought of as being a short circuit at high frequencies, so the high frequency current from the ignition system can then bypass the rest of the electrical system on the car and go straight back to the head.

I mentioned noise earlier getting into crank angle sensor wiring and causing triggering problems. Firstly, this can often be misdiagnosed because it's a complex interaction. As the load on an engine is increased, the ignition sytem generates more noise, because it requires a higher voltage to ionise the higher pressure air in the cylinder. This noise can then get into the trigger input. So although it's a trigger problem, it is load dependent. And although it's a trigger problem, it's caused by the ignition system. So the fact that a misfire is load dependent does not rule out a trigger problem, but at the same time changing the ignition system may not fix the problem.

Also, they say that there's no shortage of advice online but there's a shortage of good advice. I've seen people say that you should rerun your crank angle sensors with really good shielding and that will help keep out the ignition noise. If the shield is copper or aluminium, it's not going to do anything to the magnetic interference because those metals are not magnetic. So although people say to do it, my first recommendation would be to check that the ignition loop current area is as small as you can make it. If you look at any OEM ignition system, you'll see that's exactly what they've done.

There are other factors that will influence the amount of magnetic noise that a system generates. Running non-resistor plugs will generate more noise than resistor plugs. Running solid leads will generate more noise than resistor leads. Higher boost / load will generate more noise. Larger gap will generate more noise for the same reason.

Finally, most ECUs allow you to change the amount of filtering and voltage thresholds for the crank and cam sensor inputs, so in many cases you can filter out the noise anyway. In some cases it just won't be possible though and it depends on your signal to noise ratio. This is one reason I really like reluctor sensors over Hall effect; the voltage of the sensor increases with RPM, and generally if there's going to be a trigger problem it's going to be when the engine is at mid to high RPM anyway, so the reluctor sensor gives you a much higher signal to noise ratio than Hall effect.

So, now to the punchline. Because we are going to use star earthing, we need to pick a point for it. Because the coils need to be grounded to the engine to keep the loop area small, that means that the star point has to be the engine. This also conveniently works for some sensors whose output is not isolated from the chassis, for example many Nissan cam sensors. And if you look at almost any OEM installation (at least any that I've seen), they ground the ECU to the engine.'

The wiring harness has no separate sensor ground, they are all connected.

BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Jul 31, 2022

# ? Jul 31, 2022 06:15

Suburban Dad: Jan 10, 2007; Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself

Good post and glad you got it fixed!

# ? Jul 31, 2022 13:44

kastein: Aug 31, 2011; Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

That post is excellent and anyone building a harness should read it.

# ? Aug 1, 2022 00:09

chrisgt: Sep 6, 2011

The clutch pedal on my jetta decided to start sinking to the floor all of the sudden, out of the blue. After lots of hoping it wasn't the master cylinder, this is the master cylinder:

My phone in NFG for closeups, but i think you can see why this failed ... I have no idea how it lasted so long, honestly.
$200 later for a new master and slave, car is back in business.

# ? Aug 1, 2022 15:17

Darchangel: Feb 12, 2009; Tell him about the blower!

STR posted:

Those who have dealt with having an aftermarket double DIN stereo in a Ford 1.75 DIN opening know what a pain in the rear end it is to pull the stereo (entire bezel comes off in my case, from headlight switch to the passenger vent, and the stereo is mounted to it).

I fuckin' hate that "feature". And they're so incredibly weak at that bit that goes over the steering column. Mine's already broken there. Couldn't have put a split right there to the left of the left-center vent, could you, Ford?

BlackMK4 posted:

Finally tracked down my loving oil temp issue. I had a hunch it was ground related, then I came across a beautiful reply to a thread on HPAcademy by some saint named Chris250 which is a quote from Andy Wyatt of Adaptronic that is worth reading in its entirety.
https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/sensor-ground-chassis-ground-question

The wiring harness has no separate sensor ground, they are all connected.

So the correct fix, if I'm understanding, is that all the sensors should ground to the same point, and that point should be the ground at the ECU, which is not necessarily the body?

# ? Aug 1, 2022 18:58

BlackMK4: Aug 23, 2006; wat.; Megamarm

Darchangel posted:

So the correct fix, if I'm understanding, is that all the sensors should ground to the same point, and that point should be the ground at the ECU, which is not necessarily the body?

That is my understanding of things. The vendor replied and said that it was done this way because that is how Honda does their K series harness, where as Haltech the ECU manuf expects what you're describing.

What a pain in my rear end, we will see what happens. I should have bought an Exige.

# ? Aug 1, 2022 19:03

kastein: Aug 31, 2011; Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

Darchangel posted:

I fuckin' hate that "feature". And they're so incredibly weak at that bit that goes over the steering column. Mine's already broken there. Couldn't have put a split right there to the left of the left-center vent, could you, Ford?

So the correct fix, if I'm understanding, is that all the sensors should ground to the same point, and that point should be the ground at the ECU, which is not necessarily the body?

Ford is just USA VW, so I'm totally not surprised. I swear their engineers will intentionally make the dumbest choice to screw over the service tech without actually making the assembly line's job any easier, every single time.

# ? Aug 1, 2022 19:23

Darchangel: Feb 12, 2009; Tell him about the blower!

kastein posted:

Ford is just USA VW, so I'm totally not surprised. I swear their engineers will intentionally make the dumbest choice to screw over the service tech without actually making the assembly line's job any easier, every single time.

At least you can flex the damned thing over the steering wheel with the tilt lowered as much as possible, which surprised me. Maximum "gently caress you" would have been requiring the steering column to be lowered - which requires the removal of the knee trim panel, *then* the actual steel knee panel under that. I'm sure it was an oversight.
I gave serious thought to cutting it last time I had it out.

# ? Aug 1, 2022 20:01

chrisgt: Sep 6, 2011

kastein posted:

Ford is just USA VW, so I'm totally not surprised. I swear their engineers will intentionally make the dumbest choice to screw over the service tech without actually making the assembly line's job any easier, every single time.

It's a shame it had to this way because VWs and Mercedes, too, used to be so easy to service. The germans used their engineering for good, not for the finance department. I like my older german cars, newer ones (and by that i mean like 2000+) just scare me.

# ? Aug 1, 2022 20:03

His Divine Shadow: Aug 7, 2000; I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Finally, this was stressfull, working on a time limit. SO needs the car tomorrow, it's not optimal and I had to ignore imperfections I found. But eh, it's a car for use, not looks. Once the clear coat has hardened enough I'll do some color sanding and polish up the car itself though, should blend the panels better I think too.

# ? Aug 1, 2022 20:33

StormDrain: May 22, 2003; Thirteen Letter

His Divine Shadow posted:

Finally, this was stressfull, working on a time limit. SO needs the car tomorrow, it's not optimal and I had to ignore imperfections I found. But eh, it's a car for use, not looks. Once the clear coat has hardened enough I'll do some color sanding and polish up the car itself though, should blend the panels better I think too.

Wow great work it looks just like there's a cat on it.

# ? Aug 1, 2022 20:44

His Divine Shadow: Aug 7, 2000; I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

I wish I had painted the car cat colored instead, metallics such a PITA

# ? Aug 2, 2022 12:10

Imperador do Brasil: Nov 18, 2005; Rotor-rific

After owning the EP3 for three years I finally upgraded the radio to something modern, with CarPlay and phone capability. I see myself driving it a bit more often than in the past, so having hands-free phone and nav is a big deal.

# ? Aug 2, 2022 23:53

Ferremit: Sep 14, 2007; if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

Fixing the brakes on the old red hilux because they dont loving work any more and every loving single thing is corroded or seized!

Front Calipers- Not a spot of rust in the bores or on the chrome BELOW the piston rings- Above it? enough rust to sieze the pistons in the bores. Couldnt get the pad slide pins out without a punch because they rusted into the calipers and it took close to 80psi of air to push the pistons out!

Broke out the blast cabinet and went to town after a lot of masking and protecting of bores

Then repaint the calipers because I blew all the paint off and didnt want them to rust again instantly. The piston tops all got hit with cold galvanising spray because it should help stop corrosion in the future.

And then MANY hours later per side on the front, calipers back together and on the front with new seals and boots. And a shitload of rubber grease all over the areas that rusted and couldnt be painted.

And then found the load proportioning valve (that changes rear brake bias depending on whether the utes loaded or not) was totally siezed up and corroded too... so that took several more hours to overhaul.

I dont know why a car thats in Australia looks like one from the rustbelt?

Got that done, then got stuck into the rear drum brakes, and had to pull an axle to replace a leaking axle seal because it was filling the drum with oil

And thats when i found the rear brake cylinders didnt move either...

Probably cos the pistons looked like the one on the left, the one on the right has been cleaned up.

DIY bore hone?

and I need to buy a lathe so I can do this poo poo properly...

Spun em up and polished with wet and dry

And then the bearing decided to put up a shitfight with me and wouldnt come off with an oxy and sledgehammer and at 10pm at night I decided that firing up the cold cut saw and welder to build a set of press tools to hang the axle below my press deck to push the axle out was probably going to upset the neighbours whos house is literally 6 meters from my workshop...

So thats another days problem. This thing has done 1700km in the last 12 months and been parked outside and it shows!

# ? Aug 6, 2022 14:13

Nidhg00670000: Mar 26, 2010; We're in the pipe, five by five.; Grimey Drawer

Ferremit posted:

I dont know why a car thats in Australia looks like one from the rustbelt?

Those look better than the ones on my mom's three year old Hyundai.

Salt. Salt never changes.

# ? Aug 6, 2022 15:34

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Imperador do Brasil posted:

After owning the EP3 for three years I finally upgraded the radio to something modern, with CarPlay and phone capability. I see myself driving it a bit more often than in the past, so having hands-free phone and nav is a big deal.

That stereo looks familiar...

KW-M56BT?

# ? Aug 7, 2022 06:54

Imperador do Brasil: Nov 18, 2005; Rotor-rific

STR posted:

That stereo looks familiar...

KW-M56BT?

KW-M560BT, whatever the difference might be 🤷🏻‍♂️

# ? Aug 7, 2022 14:21

NitroSpazzz: Dec 9, 2006; You don't need style when you've got strength!

100k mile (99960) oil change, quick jack continues to be excellent and worth the couple minutes to drag out and position.

# ? Aug 7, 2022 15:26

EvilBeard: Apr 24, 2003; Big Q's House of Pancakes; Fun Shoe

Went to take the radials off after a night at the track, and in putting my street wheels/tires back on, I dropped one face down in the driveway, which is rock. Dinged up the paint on the driver's side wheel. I touched it up, but it looks like I'm repainting the wheels this fall/winter.

# ? Aug 7, 2022 17:25

Thrasher: Apr 21, 2002

Ripped out the old steering column and replaced it with an ididit chrome tilt column.

Old:

New:

No more rag joint.. new nickel plated d-bar and unions.. looks awesome with the chrome cpp500 steering box.

New steering wheel too.

# ? Aug 8, 2022 00:51

StormDrain: May 22, 2003; Thirteen Letter

I took the Binder around the block. I popped the screw off the side of the fuel bowl and filled it up with the Nalgene first, and it fired right up which was nice. I really should either drive it more or do that every time.

Lots of smoke overall though. Things had gotten a bid dry and weeped over the exhaust manifolds. I'll try and make a point to drive it a bit and perhaps get a buddy to follow as a support crew just in case. I really need to rebuild my confidence. I've driven the truck over a hundred miles in one trip in winter time... I know it's capable. I just get worried with the last batch of issues.

# ? Aug 8, 2022 01:19

Ferremit: Sep 14, 2007; if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

Drum brakes suck. Drum brakes with a leaky axle seal suck even more. Drum brakes with a leaky axle seal on a semi floating axle that you have to press the bearing and retainer on and off suck the absolute most.

I am covered in black, stink of kerosine and every time I touch a brake clean can every single cut or scratch on my hands sings the song of its people.

I should just find a 95 series rear axle and weld it in so I get rear disks and be done with it�

# ? Aug 8, 2022 02:10

His Divine Shadow: Aug 7, 2000; I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Really? I like drum brakes, they seem to last forever compared to disks. Changed them once in 15 years on my current car. Of course I had a shop do that for me, worth a few hundred.

Nidhg00670000 posted:

Those look better than the ones on my mom's three year old Hyundai.

Salt. Salt never changes.

It's pretty normal here for people to take their new cars to shops which spray the undersides with undercarriage protection against rust, as well as all the cavities. They skipped that on my Mazda whoever owned it first. But it's highly recommended.

I have a friend who drove a 1984 opel kadet until last year, he was the 2nd owner and he had treated it religiously. Opels from that time are known as rust buckets but it had no rust, and it had achieved veteran car status, managed to sell it for a few hundred less than he bought it for. Insane, apparently it was in good enough shape for a collector be interested in it.

# ? Aug 8, 2022 07:46

Nidhg00670000: Mar 26, 2010; We're in the pipe, five by five.; Grimey Drawer

His Divine Shadow posted:

It's pretty normal here for people to take their new cars to shops which spray the undersides with undercarriage protection against rust, as well as all the cavities. They skipped that on my Mazda whoever owned it first. But it's highly recommended.

I have a friend who drove a 1984 opel kadet until last year, he was the 2nd owner and he had treated it religiously. Opels from that time are known as rust buckets but it had no rust, and it had achieved veteran car status, managed to sell it for a few hundred less than he bought it for. Insane, apparently it was in good enough shape for a collector be interested in it.

Ya, I'm in middle Sweden and I've had extra rust-proofing done on many cars through the years. Getting an Opel of any vintage to last that long without dying the brown death is impressive. It's still not super uncommon for people to call rust "opelsjukan" here (the Opel sickness).

# ? Aug 8, 2022 15:23

His Divine Shadow: Aug 7, 2000; I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

It was a pretty weird car, it had an earlier 1.2 liter engine dating back to the 60s, instead of the regular 1.4 engines that the normal kadets would've had.

Apparently it was an extra cheapo option for the finnish and other markets, the engine used push rods instead of a belt, a fact he said he highly priced for it's increased reliability. I think he gave up on keeping it going when the fuel tank imploded from a stuck tank vent. Did find one in Norway, a new tank but it was getting too much since he used the car as a daily driver.

# ? Aug 8, 2022 16:31

PBCrunch: Jun 17, 2002; Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me

Cross posted from Motronic's informative AC thread.

I recently filled my old R-12 AC system with some computer duster (R-152). The AC started blowing cold, but I noticed that the top fan speed was not working correctly. I checked voltage at the fan and noticed that the lowest speed read ~3V, the next speed read ~5V, then ~7V, but the top speed also read ~7V. The top speed should just be battery voltage.

I pulled the fan speed switch and saw burn marks in it. I ordered a new on from Amazon. While the dash was apart, I might as well change the stereo head unit, right? And the new head unit has a microphone for Bluetooth calling that mounts by the sun visor. The new head unit has more RCA pre-outs, so I guess I should change the way the interior speakers are connected and add a second amplifier for the subwoofer. And if you give a mouse a cookie...

You'll end up with an interior full of tools and a truck bed full of interior parts.

# ? Aug 8, 2022 17:09

Darchangel: Feb 12, 2009; Tell him about the blower!

PBCrunch posted:

Cross posted from Motronic's informative AC thread.

I recently filled my old R-12 AC system with some computer duster (R-152). The AC started blowing cold, but I noticed that the top fan speed was not working correctly. I checked voltage at the fan and noticed that the lowest speed read ~3V, the next speed read ~5V, then ~7V, but the top speed also read ~7V. The top speed should just be battery voltage.

I pulled the fan speed switch and saw burn marks in it. I ordered a new on from Amazon. While the dash was apart, I might as well change the stereo head unit, right? And the new head unit has a microphone for Bluetooth calling that mounts by the sun visor. The new head unit has more RCA pre-outs, so I guess I should change the way the interior speakers are connected and add a second amplifier for the subwoofer. And if you give a mouse a cookie...

You'll end up with an interior full of tools and a truck bed full of interior parts.

Hmmmm.... That interior looks very Mazda to me, even without logos. B2000?
And yes, cascading "mightaswells" are very familiar. Might as well do this while I'm in here...

# ? Aug 8, 2022 18:35

PBCrunch: Jun 17, 2002; Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me

Darchangel posted:

Hmmmm.... That interior looks very Mazda to me, even without logos. B2000?
And yes, cascading "mightaswells" are very familiar. Might as well do this while I'm in here...

1993 Toyota Pickup. What a great name. Not T2400 or anything. Just Pickup.

# ? Aug 8, 2022 19:22

KakerMix: Apr 8, 2004; 8.2 M.P.G.

PBCrunch posted:

1993 Toyota Pickup. What a great name. Not T2400 or anything. Just Pickup.

Why they didn't call it "Hilux" like everywhere else in the world I'll never understand

# ? Aug 8, 2022 21:59

PBCrunch: Jun 17, 2002; Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me

KakerMix posted:

Why they didn't call it "Hilux" like everywhere else in the world I'll never understand

I don't know, but the people at Isuzu of America were taking the same drugs at the time.

# ? Aug 8, 2022 22:02

cursedshitbox: May 20, 2012; Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.; Fun Shoe

also see: Toyota Van

# ? Aug 8, 2022 22:10

Darchangel: Feb 12, 2009; Tell him about the blower!

PBCrunch posted:

1993 Toyota Pickup. What a great name. Not T2400 or anything. Just Pickup.

Ah, yeah, that'll look a lot like the Maz back then.

PBCrunch posted:

I don't know, but the people at Isuzu of America were taking the same drugs at the time.

Wasn't the Isuzu the "P'up"?

And don't forget the Chevy LUV (which was an Isuzu...)

# ? Aug 9, 2022 00:36

dissss: Nov 10, 2007; I'm a terrible forums poster with terrible opinions.

Here's a cat fucking a squid.

cursedshitbox posted:

also see: Toyota Van

Shoulda kept the Japanese 'MasterAce Surf' naming scheme (with trims called 'Royal Lounge' and 'Grand Saloon')

# ? Aug 9, 2022 06:34

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# ? May 15, 2024 18:05

Olympic Mathlete: Feb 25, 2011

Toyota Deliboy is a favourite of mine. It's a shortened version of Delivery boy but just makes it sound like it's always full of delicious meats.

# ? Aug 9, 2022 08:03

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > What did you do to your car today? My car isn't fast, it's only 10s in the 1/4 mile

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