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SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

I have all three (though I haven't dug out the gloss varnish, satin was enough). Time consuming to brush it on, so hopefully it's effective enough as is. Every rattle can of varnish I've used, without fail, has frosted. We'll see how these turn out I suppose, both in quality and durability.

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punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

really love my airbrush for varnishing. turned it from a stressful process to something almost completely mindless.

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

SkyeAuroline posted:

I have all three (though I haven't dug out the gloss varnish, satin was enough). Time consuming to brush it on, so hopefully it's effective enough as is. Every rattle can of varnish I've used, without fail, has frosted. We'll see how these turn out I suppose, both in quality and durability.

Update: the answer is "not durable enough" and when the glue dries I need at least one more coat. You can probably see where some paint got taken off of a varnished spot during assembly, but at least it was already gray and looks normal?

Also sorry for the poor image quality, my phone camera is damaged and Samsung decided "damaged camera during the warranty period" wasn't a warranty claim, so the lenses are out of focus. I did my best to manually focus for the most details.

Siege Breaker



Melta Support Sergeant


Tactical Sergeant



Contemptor (the Contemptor guns ended up looking pretty bad due to me missing a step or two)

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Don't have a pic but just a note on the "Dark Crusaders" I'm currently working on: I was drybrushing them up from dark gray to white, but although they looked okay, I thought the highlight were just a wee bit too subtle. I thought this might be because I was using paints that had a matte finish when dry, which works great with Speedpaint or Contrast paint in terms of tinting the basecoats, but not so well in terms of pulling the paint off the raised areas to let the highlights shine thru.

I remembered I had some white craft paint with a satin finish, so on a whim I overbrushed (not drybrushed) that onto a figure that was primed black, so that the recesses were still black but the raised areas were all painted with the satin-y white. I then painted the Speedpaint Grim Black over that, and the highlights came out way better (I imagine you could get the same effect by painting with regular hobby paints and then just giving the figure a satin varnish before doing the Speedpaint or Contrast paint). I'm pretty sure that's why the GW rattlecan "Contrast primers" work so well, too, because everyone has said they have a satin finish to them. Probably one of those "common knowledge" things for these types of paints, but just figured I'd mention it. If nothing else, you can save a few bucks by picking up a bottle of satin finish craft paint and just use that. :v:

Lucinice
Feb 15, 2012

You look tired. Maybe you should stop posting.
Does anyone have tips for drilling holes into the ends of weapons? I keep screwing up and I've broken more weapons that I would like to admit.

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

Lucinice posted:

Does anyone have tips for drilling holes into the ends of weapons? I keep screwing up and I've broken more weapons that I would like to admit.

I use a pin vise with a 0.8mm bit (which happens to be the same size as the paper clips I pin with) to drill barrels. The melta barrel there blurred out, unfortunately, so not a very good visual description. Centering the bit by scoring an "X" with a hobby knife where you plan on drilling really helps prevent the bit from slipping or engaging in the wrong place. After that it's just... drill until it's the right depth.

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!
Other than Green Dragon, any good leads on 10-15mm minis fantasy or sci-fi STLs?

Also, any companies making old school metal style looking Squats as STLs? The new models don't do it for me and the classics are priced insanely.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Indolent Bastard posted:

Also, any companies making old school metal style looking Squats as STLs? The new models don't do it for me and the classics are priced insanely.

I dunno how "old school metal" they might be, but McAngry Minis on MMF is doing space dwarfs/squat proxies that look pretty darn good.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Lucinice posted:

Does anyone have tips for drilling holes into the ends of weapons? I keep screwing up and I've broken more weapons that I would like to admit.

make a pilot divot with your xacto knife in the center of the barrel. then go slow and adjust the position of the drill bit to try to get it as close to the center as you can. And use a drill bit about half the diameter of the barrel.

Don't use a dremel, do it with a pin vice and go slow

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

For bolters it does help a bit if you go via the side holes first. At least that's how I do it, never been able to score it dead centre yet.

The Demilich
Apr 9, 2020

The First Rites of Men Were Mortuary, the First Altars Tombs.



Lucinice posted:

Does anyone have tips for drilling holes into the ends of weapons? I keep screwing up and I've broken more weapons that I would like to admit.

The Demilich posted:

Get a pair of magnifiers. It's a game changing tool.

I use 6x, at that magnification there's no missing center mass. I usually insert the tip of my scalpal and give it a little spin, creating a sort of pilot hole for the 1mm drill bit that I'll use afterwards to actually make the hole.
Example:

Bored Online
May 25, 2009

We don't need Rome telling us what to do.
I was thinking about stripping some flubbed up models, because I can really use them for another project. Simple Green is “environmentally safe,” but the website does not say how to actually dispose of it. Is it clean enough to put down a california drain? Is it even the right way to go about stripping models? Thanks in advance.

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
I put simple green down the sink. I also use it for regular around-the-house cleaning which ends up down the shower drain usually. Paint stripping is just the batch I keep to the side in a glass container for models. The stripped acrylic paint does turn in to a bit of a sludge-y mess at the bottom, so shake it up good and thin it with water to avoid clogging your sink when you're done.

For the air brush I bought, Sparmax SP35, I'm looking for a hose for it and want to make sure I understand the mechanics of what's going on a bit better so I buy the right one. When I depress the button on the top of the airbrush it pushes down on to the hose at the bottom, which would have a Schrader valve in it? And that valve is what enables or disables the air flow, not any internal mechanisms in the airbrush itself? So I would need a 1/8 inch screw-on socket with valve inside for the airbrush end and then my air compressor also uses 1/8 I believe, it's the same diameter as the Sparmax, which would just be a hollow 1/8 screw on valve? Am I getting any of that wrong?

Nazzadan
Jun 22, 2016



Starting to wonder if the nuln oil is toning down my bronze shades TOO much, maybe I should start diluting it. Overall pleased with how the metals are coming along and how the pink looks against the black

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

i find if I use ANY wash, and smother the model it darkens the model way too much

I need to just shove it in the crevices manually instead

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Nazzadan posted:

Starting to wonder if the nuln oil is toning down my bronze shades TOO much, maybe I should start diluting it. Overall pleased with how the metals are coming along and how the pink looks against the black


Might be a good use case for the mortarian grey shade they just came out with. Or you could mix the shade with some lahmian medium and tone it down a bit with that.

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Nazzadan posted:

Starting to wonder if the nuln oil is toning down my bronze shades TOO much, maybe I should start diluting it. Overall pleased with how the metals are coming along and how the pink looks against the black


If you have a purple wash it's great for shading bronze without being too heavy

Melek
May 23, 2003
Why would I get a DVD ROM drive when I have two DVD players in my house? Please send me $50 cash so I can get a DVD Drive. Or better yet please send me $10 bux so I can have this ugly red title removed.
Dragged my feet with this xpost but now with an Abby Addition!

Just started Warhammers and mini painting a few months back with a Sisters combat patrol box. Love the look but got sick of painting red robes, so the spikey boys were a fun swerve - also got to paint the happiest chaos man. Decided to make them a grab bag of legions, most of the specialty guys really scream a particular legion and it was a great excuse to paint different colors and styles. Being a small, elite force, I tried a more... excessive basing. I also played around with the grimdark painting style and experimented with oils, weathering and heavier OSL attempts. It is strangely freeing to meticulously paint these boys and then slather oil and pigments on them, chip away or randomly jab paint on/off them and gunk them up with ugly rust effects.


I love this man so much. Barbardiaz, Chosen of the Black Legion. This is the dude Abaddon chose to put together this team, and he's lovin' it.

Be'vis the Incandescent, Acolyte of the Word Bearers.

Angrus the Unruled, World Eater Butcher.

Skriryl Noisetease Heavy Gunnin' for the Children.

Unnamed, Black Legion Anointed. I would have preferred Word Bearers, but I felt the red armor would wash out with the heavy OSL from the ground.

Bellandis, The Fallen Slayer. Shrivetalon of the Night Lords. The lightning bolts made me really want a smaller, sharper brush.

Dude still needs basing, and I'm out of ideas. Used Vincy V's Alpha Legion blend of tamyia clear blue and green airbrushed over metallic.

The missus got me an early birthday gift too! A work in progress still,

(Holy crap the Abaddon photos are garbage quality)

But he manages to be overly dramatic even half-painted.

abravemoose
Jul 2, 2021
Painted two (Warhammer daemon) princes.



Both are big chunks of resin, Mamon the left model especially. I also magnetized the right model not as much for weapon swapping but because body liked to fall apart.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
What were the preferred sources for Vallejo paint in the US?

I knew I should've bookmarked them the last time they were posted.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

PoptartsNinja posted:

What were the preferred sources for Vallejo paint in the US?

I knew I should've bookmarked them the last time they were posted.

I've ordered a lot through Mega Hobby

https://www.megahobby.com/categories/paint-store/vallejo-paints.html

And Mini Market

https://www.miniaturemarket.com/tab...xoCuNsQAvD_BwE&

Nazzadan
Jun 22, 2016



Winklebottom posted:

If you have a purple wash it's great for shading bronze without being too heavy

I do have druchii violet, I'll give that a try on the next one. Thanks!

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
Having a lot of fun with Middle Earth SBG minis, even if painting metal models loving sucks sometimes.

First up is Gamling, standard bearer of Théoden. It turned out well enough, but I'm absolutely DREADING putting a design on the flag. I ordered some acrylic paint pens to hopefully make that easier.


edit-- yes I didn't realize how bad the base looked until I put it under the photo light

Next up is Shagrat, captain of Cirith Ungol. A lot of MESBG minis come in different flavors in the same box, so I have two different loadouts I guess. Painting the evil dudes in MESBG means a lot of shades of brown and grey and dark metal.



I'm new to this world, but I'm having a ton of fun since I actually know LOTR lore inside and out, it makes me feel like a kid painting up cool toys.

TotalHell
Feb 22, 2005

Roman Reigns fights CM Punk in fantasy warld. Lotsa violins, so littl kids cant red it.


In like 90% of cases if I’m using a wash I am either pin-washing some specific spots/crevasses or I’m washing an area and then re-applying my base layer over most of it to work it back toward a highlight. YMMV of course.

PotatoManJack
Nov 9, 2009
I could use some advice. Just got this mini as part of my subscription to Dungeon in a Box. It's huge and I love it, but usually models of this size come in pieces so that they can be painted and then assembled, whereas this one has come all assembled already. This means it's pretty hard to reach the underside of the wings and the back of the model.

My question is, should I cut / remove the wings so that I can paint it more easily or just try and work with the model the way it is? If it makes any difference, it does look like there's a join where the wings were attached, although my initial prodding hasn't yielded any results in seeing if the wings will come off easily.

War and Pieces
Apr 24, 2022

DID NOT VOTE FOR FETTERMAN
Im messing around with the new batch of Contrast Paint (bad moon yellow) and I want to try zenithal priming. My problem is that I've already primed most my pieces with Velejjo's Yellow. Any suggestions?

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Indolent Bastard posted:

Other than Green Dragon, any good leads on 10-15mm minis fantasy or sci-fi STLs?

Also, any companies making old school metal style looking Squats as STLs? The new models don't do it for me and the classics are priced insanely.

Red Nebular does 10mm and 28mm, and he seems to be on a Space Dwarf kick lately.

https://www.patreon.com/hobgoblindigital/membership

And on Thingiverse for samples,

https://www.thingiverse.com/jazzmantis/designs

I am between printers at the moment, so I can't speak to quality, but the renders look good.

mllaneza fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Aug 2, 2022

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

War and Pieces posted:

Im messing around with the new batch of Contrast Paint (bad moon yellow) and I want to try zenithal priming. My problem is that I've already primed most my pieces with Velejjo's Yellow. Any suggestions?
You can try a black or brown wash all over and then hit them with a cream highlight from above.

Edit: A black wash might turn your paint Bad Moon Green, but hey so it goes.

Siivola fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Aug 2, 2022

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




War and Pieces posted:

Im messing around with the new batch of Contrast Paint (bad moon yellow) and I want to try zenithal priming. My problem is that I've already primed most my pieces with Velejjo's Yellow. Any suggestions?

Congrats, yellow is now your high level.

Spray dark green from below.


I have 0 idea if this would actually work.

edit: wait. Magenta or dark purple from below. duh.

edit edit: Having a Resin printer is awesome for this. Just grab some random fantasy mini, print it, and see what happens. 0.05mm layers goes pretty fast and makes a pretty good test mini.

Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Aug 2, 2022

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

War and Pieces posted:

Im messing around with the new batch of Contrast Paint (bad moon yellow) and I want to try zenithal priming. My problem is that I've already primed most my pieces with Velejjo's Yellow. Any suggestions?

Just hit it with the white zenithal as if your yellow was black. I commonly use non-black colours as my dark in zenithal (usually a mid brown, but I've gone as light as a space wolf grey) because some of the thinner/lighter contrasts struggle over the black. Yellow is much brighter than I'd usually go for my dark coat, but I think the white will still allow the contrast paints to do their thing and give a brighter highlight.

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

mllaneza posted:

Red Nebular does 10mm and 28mm, and he seems to be on a Space Dwarf kick lately.

https://www.patreon.com/hobgoblindigital/membership

And on Thingiverse for samples,

https://www.thingiverse.com/jazzmantis/designs

I am between printers at the moment, so I can't speak to quality, but the renders look good.

Thanks. 🙂

Burns
May 10, 2008

Count Thrashula posted:

Having a lot of fun with Middle Earth SBG minis, even if painting metal models loving sucks sometimes.

First up is Gamling, standard bearer of Théoden. It turned out well enough, but I'm absolutely DREADING putting a design on the flag. I ordered some acrylic paint pens to hopefully make that easier.


edit-- yes I didn't realize how bad the base looked until I put it under the photo light

Next up is Shagrat, captain of Cirith Ungol. A lot of MESBG minis come in different flavors in the same box, so I have two different loadouts I guess. Painting the evil dudes in MESBG means a lot of shades of brown and grey and dark metal.



I'm new to this world, but I'm having a ton of fun since I actually know LOTR lore inside and out, it makes me feel like a kid painting up cool toys.

Gamling looks great. I always wanted to get those lotr minis. Are they still sold by GW (or elsewhere)?

Doctor Goon
Nov 15, 2013
WIP on my first orky boy.



I was inspired by a goon who posted really cool Ork Kommandos with bright blue colors a while back (I can't remember your name, sorry!), but otherwise it's my first time painting without following an established paint scheme. As it turns out, this poo poo is pretty hard and I'm the kind of dude who will agonize for 30 minutes over each piece of equipment and change their mind at least 4 times :v:

stackofflapjacks
Apr 7, 2009

Mmmmm

Burns posted:

Gamling looks great. I always wanted to get those lotr minis. Are they still sold by GW (or elsewhere)?

Seems GW carries the range still, I have only seen physical stock of them at one FLGS recently and it was sparse obviously

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord

Burns posted:

Gamling looks great. I always wanted to get those lotr minis. Are they still sold by GW (or elsewhere)?

Unfortunately most of the MESBG line is direct only from GW, you can rarely find them in local shops. I lucked out that one of my local shops (shout out Dark Depths Games in Philly) has a ton of the old metal figures sitting around, so I picked up a bunch.

Speaking of, just finished up Gorbag and the Mouth of Sauron. The orc flesh is decidedly less saturated in person, my camera really made that pop too much.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

stackofflapjacks posted:

Seems GW carries the range still, I have only seen physical stock of them at one FLGS recently and it was sparse obviously

They have LOTR minis on rotation these days. With various batches getting swapped after a couple of months.
GW is holding a LOTR preview stream this weekend so that might change though for all I know.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

What do you guys do for cool backgrounds in your photos? I'm talking the textured backgrounds and such

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
felt, a coffee table book on geology, construction paper, cheap fabric

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

real pros stick with white copy paper

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GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I'd like to make a scene or mini diorama but I don't have the materials I think. I'd end up needing to make a background of scifi or fantasy stuff which I don't yet have either (much less the space to store it)

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