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Springfield Fatts posted:Anyone have experience with the newer Tracer 900s? There's a 2019 GT near me that seems like a good deal but when I rode one way back in 2015 when they first came out they just felt cheap as hell. I know they've gone upspec in features (and price) since then though. I test rode one at a demo day, and also just felt like it was OK. I didn't feel the weird seating position Slavvy did though. There were definitely more electronics than I had time to play with on the ~25 minute ride I got. Switch gear and controls at least felt like an upgrade from my Buell and DR, and the quickshifter was a nice bonus.
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# ? Aug 2, 2022 01:46 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 16:11 |
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moxieman posted:Question: why does my SV650 (carb’d) start harder when hot than when cold? What about starting with no choke after sitting? Might just be a tad rich. The only possible disaster here would be if your float seal is leaking and your engine is flooded. If it has a fuel petcock\shutoff, you could start shutting off the fuel when it is going to sit. If the problem goes away, and really tested, only then would I really be concerned. This is juat generic advice for generic carbs. The SV650 might have fancy vacuum triggered petcocks in which case doing this doesn't do anything unless the petcock is also broke. SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Aug 2, 2022 |
# ? Aug 2, 2022 02:23 |
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Well, the difference between morning air and evening air can be 15 degrees (C) or so, dunno if that’s enough to make a difference in how much choke to use. I’ve been using a bit (probably 1/3) of choke to start it in the afternoon and that works best, but still takes a few more cranks than in the morning. No choke and full choke both won’t do it. New plugs and a sync are on my to do list. edit: yeah it has a vacuum operated petcock
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# ? Aug 2, 2022 02:31 |
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moxieman posted:Well, the difference between morning air and evening air can be 15 degrees (C) or so, dunno if that’s enough to make a difference in how much choke to use. It definitely is on the Rex. If it's the morning and 15° out I need 80 to 100% choke, if it's the afternoon and 32°, even if I haven't touched it all day, it'll get turning on no choke (albeit running at a lower idle than I'm comfortable with) Doesn't need a bunch of cranks either way, but my carbs have proved to be very well set up
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# ? Aug 2, 2022 20:19 |
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My carb'd SV also starts less easy when hot. No choke and a bit of throttle always gets the job done within seconds though.
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# ? Aug 2, 2022 20:33 |
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How do you decide on crash protection hardware? I want to get an engine guard and some other stuff so I can start taking the tuareg off-road. I'm an idiot when it comes to this stuff.
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# ? Aug 2, 2022 21:12 |
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KidDynamite posted:How do you decide on crash protection hardware? I want to get an engine guard and some other stuff so I can start taking the tuareg off-road. I'm an idiot when it comes to this stuff. If you are serious about offroading get a bash plate and a full wraparound cage. With most manufacturers you can choose between an upper and lower part, with one protecting the fairings and the other the motor housing.
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# ? Aug 2, 2022 21:17 |
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I meant more choosing a brand that makes the stuff. How do you know it's quality that won't break? Like there's a large difference in pricing for example engine guard: heed ~190 swmotech ~450
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# ? Aug 2, 2022 21:36 |
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KidDynamite posted:I meant more choosing a brand that makes the stuff. How do you know it's quality that won't break? Like there's a large difference in pricing for example engine guard: heed ~190 I don't know the answer, but the official Yamaha engine guard is $329, and the skid plate is $380, so I'd just go with those. At least you know they'll fit.
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# ? Aug 2, 2022 21:54 |
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google, forums, reddit, experience, pouring through their assembly instructions, etc.
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# ? Aug 2, 2022 22:31 |
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I’m hardly an expert, but I’ve been really happy with the quality of stuff I’ve seen and gotten from SW-Motech. Those Germans are very precise.
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# ? Aug 2, 2022 22:54 |
KidDynamite posted:I meant more choosing a brand that makes the stuff. How do you know it's quality that won't break? Like there's a large difference in pricing for example engine guard: heed ~190 I'd look at what they mount to as well so you don't get a bash plate attached to the headers like a guzzi ADV.
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# ? Aug 3, 2022 05:25 |
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KidDynamite posted:I meant more choosing a brand that makes the stuff. How do you know it's quality that won't break? Like there's a large difference in pricing for example engine guard: heed ~190 Look at the installation instructions and consider the mount points. Some people dislike them mounted to the engine I think, but I also believe there aren't any alternatives on most bikes. The real differences besides that are just coverage and ease of assembly. There isn't going to be a crash bar that's gonna break, while another wouldn't have, in any scenario I can think of where the bike wouldn't be utterly hosed anyway. Like if you crash in a way that breaks any halfway decent crashbar, the bike will be hosed up in many other ways. SW-Motech is a premium brand and you pay for that, but functionality will be the same for any reputable brand. It's more about fit and finish, as well as available accessories.
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# ? Aug 3, 2022 07:40 |
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I think I'm wrong about my VanVan's factory chain, which a hasty search when I bought it convinced me was an O-ring but I wonder if that was confirmation bias in hindsight. I only just learned of the existence of small street bikes that don't come with them. Any advice on tracking down a chain's specifications or how the model number breaks down? I'm having trouble finding details on what my OM declares to be a 110-link "DID520DMA4", even on DID's website. The closest I've got is a table that doesn't list it, unless the "DMA4" part of the name should be ignored and this is just a "DID520"? It is a small bike, table says small bike? https://didchain.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/2020-Chain-Spec-Chart.pdf I've been gaining an inch of slack roughly every 400 miles(!). Have been tightening the axle nuts to the specified 48 ft-lb and the adjustment nuts reasonably tight. It's due again, and I should be able to measure how much it's stretched since I got it. I also plan to bang on the tire with a mallet to make sure it's solidly against the spacers, but if that's been my problem I would expect the sag to reappear sooner.
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 04:15 |
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Suzuki specs a DID520DMA (114 links) for the VanVan. That chain is used on a bunch of other bikes, most of them small and/or old. I don't know for sure if it's an o-ring chain by looking online. DID520STD is specifically non-oring but I can't find what the DMA portion of the part number is
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 04:57 |
Remy Marathe posted:I think I'm wrong about my VanVan's factory chain, which a hasty search when I bought it convinced me was an O-ring but I wonder if that was confirmation bias in hindsight. I only just learned of the existence of small street bikes that don't come with them. Just get a 120 link 520 and shorten it
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 05:17 |
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It's not the length that's throwing me, it looks like that's just a matter of getting the right tool, I just can't figure out whether I have an o-ring chain and something's fucky with my tensioning, or I have a non-o-ring that I've been failing to oil on the reg that should be replaced asap anyway, because who wants a chain that has to be tightened every 400mi. If I measure the 20-pin length and there's a noticeable amount of stretch in the last 1200 miles, can I assume it's a garbage chain? e; alternate possibility, my failure to oil it regularly has in fact MADE it stretch and it would've lasted way longer?
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 05:34 |
1. Observe the chain with thine eyes 2. Observe the o-ring or absence thereof between the inner and outer links, verily
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 05:39 |
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I have apparently never looked that closely at my chains, because I never took the ring to be visible, thought it was inside the barrel or whatever. I will take a magnifying glass out there tomorrow.
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 05:42 |
Posteth yon lithograph, if ye be uncertain
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 05:46 |
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This page has a comparison/what to look for image between O-ring and non. From your description (and since the initial Van Van was launched in the early 70s), it's most likely you have a non o-ring chain.
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 14:27 |
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Pretty much have to maintain standard chains constantly. Standard chains you can kinda just wipe them and throw some gear oil on. The oil gets sucked up between the rollers. Pretty much should do that very often. Imo adjust tension when they are warmed up and freshly lubricated, it'll have the most slack. Sealed chains are nicer. Maxima makes a good cleaning set of chemicals. Way less maintenance. The chain may or may not be messed up. Try cleaning, oiling, riding a bit, then tension. See if it lasts longer than a ride or two. Has anyone actually ever had good luck with a chain breaker, that supposudly pops rivited link pins out? I had a way better time with a bench grinder on the rivets to cut a chain down. It's probably the chain but inspect your engine mount bolts too. Don't over torque them but make sure the engine isn't wiggling. SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Aug 6, 2022 |
# ? Aug 6, 2022 17:06 |
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Yeah I got a beefy one that works very well, tried on 520 size. I'll try to remember a picture later
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 17:19 |
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Chain breakers are not really needed anymore with the advent of cordless angle grinders. A riveting tool like dids are still needed though. https://www.amazon.com/D-I-D-KASHIMARU-KUN50-TAGLIA-CATENA-RIVETTATORE/
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 18:23 |
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Cordless angle grinders: the tool that pays for itself (if you know someone willing to fence catalytic converters)
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 18:27 |
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Phy posted:Cordless angle grinders: the tool that pays for itself (if you know someone willing to fence catalytic converters) It's cordless sawzalls around here...
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 18:34 |
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the angle grinder is great if you're a bike thief though
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 18:54 |
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I'm on the waitlist for a chonk-rear end £300 U lock that's got some kind of graphene gubbins layered around the steel shackle that's specifically designed to shred angle grinder discs. Looks pretty nifty.
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 19:20 |
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Supradog posted:Chain breakers are not really needed anymore with the advent of cordless angle grinders. A riveting tool like dids are still needed though. I've been using master links and clips am I gonna die
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 19:23 |
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Renaissance Robot posted:I'm on the waitlist for a chonk-rear end £300 U lock that's got some kind of graphene gubbins layered around the steel shackle that's specifically designed to shred angle grinder discs. Looks pretty nifty. You still gotta lock it to something, which probably isn't coated in graphene gubbins.
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 19:27 |
SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:I've been using master links and clips am I gonna die Only if you have like 50+ horsepower
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 20:34 |
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Slavvy posted:Only if you have like 50+ horsepower You can use 2 for up to 100HP
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 22:13 |
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Thanks y'all, trip report: Derp. It is a non-O-ring chain on the VanVan (and 110 links confirmed). Now that I know where I'm looking I can plainly see the O-rings for comparison on the T120's chain. Lubed and tightened Vanvan's chain to ~ 0.75" play, rode it briefly to warm it up, re-lubed found it at 1" so tightened it up again. I'll keep a closer eye on it and lube it more regularly till I get around to installing a lower maintenance chain, I've been giving it the Maxima O-ring Neglect treatment so far. No sign of loose engine mounts. The 20-pin count hasn't changed a bit in the last 1200 miles by my records, that doesn't seem consistent with the idea that it's been stretching. But everything else suggests this is normal chain behavior given what it is
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 22:50 |
Remy Marathe posted:Thanks y'all, trip report: Derp. It is a non-O-ring chain on the VanVan (and 110 links confirmed). Now that I know where I'm looking I can plainly see the O-rings for comparison on the T120's chain. Consider that the sprockets also wear. Also idk where this 'measuring 20 links' idea came from but I've never heard of it.
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 23:11 |
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I pulled that pin counting thing from the FSM, but on re-read I just did it wrong and should've measured 21 pins, not 20, and can't say for sure whether I did it right during my post-purchase inspections. From the earlier section of the FSM that pertains to older VanVans with DID 428 chains: quote:Count out 21 pins (20-pitch) on the chain [and] measure the distance between the two points. If the distance exceeds the service limit, the chain must be replaced. The specification table in the newer section that pertains more specifically to my 2018's chain gives a "20pitch length" of 12.57 inches. Adjusting for the fact that I should've measured one more pin earlier, mine's around 12.25" right now.
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 23:46 |
Bizarre. I just look at the chain and work out if it's hosed, it's usually pretty obvious what with the red iron filings and tambourine rattle.
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# ? Aug 6, 2022 23:57 |
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What ARE you talking about? Step back here please. What Are you trying to solve? Modern chain solutions are available for any non obscure bike since the 80s. Get a loving modern did / rk chain xring and JT sprocket kit. DONE. Changeing sprockets and chain as a set is a good idea,and NOT hard. ANY BIKE(*) from ANY(*) manufacturer has sprocket and chain kits readily available from any bigger bike stores website . *(Small chinese or Italian rebrands excluded.)
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# ? Aug 7, 2022 00:17 |
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“Chain” is a standardized industrial Lego piece. They’re all the same thing just different sizes. You may have a hard time finding sprockets for some bikes but never chain.
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# ? Aug 7, 2022 00:23 |
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Slavvy posted:Consider that the sprockets also wear. Some bicycle chain wear gauges work like that. It's a go/no go gauge you insert at any one link and if the other end inserts into the chain cleanly, it's worn past a certain point. I don't remember how many links it covers, but obviously it's a fixed number. Probably less than 20
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# ? Aug 7, 2022 00:31 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 16:11 |
TotalLossBrain posted:Some bicycle chain wear gauges work like that. It's a go/no go gauge you insert at any one link and if the other end inserts into the chain cleanly, it's worn past a certain point. Yeah I'm familiar with those, happily my bicycle has a Nexus hub so I just need to replace it when I run out of travel in the dropouts
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# ? Aug 7, 2022 00:35 |