Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Deeters
Aug 21, 2007


Springfield Fatts posted:

Anyone have experience with the newer Tracer 900s? There's a 2019 GT near me that seems like a good deal but when I rode one way back in 2015 when they first came out they just felt cheap as hell. I know they've gone upspec in features (and price) since then though.

I test rode one at a demo day, and also just felt like it was OK. I didn't feel the weird seating position Slavvy did though. There were definitely more electronics than I had time to play with on the ~25 minute ride I got. Switch gear and controls at least felt like an upgrade from my Buell and DR, and the quickshifter was a nice bonus.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice

moxieman posted:

Question: why does my SV650 (carb’d) start harder when hot than when cold?

Stock jets and needle, stock air box and filter, mix screws 2.5 turns out, aftermarket scorpion exhaust with an eBay baffle.

Starts up right away every morning with full choke, but if I ride to work and leave it out in the sun all day it takes a several more cranks to start when I head home. This morning I decided to fuel up in town when I got to work and it also took several cranks to start after I filled up.

The bike is new to me so if this is a case of “it’s normal, you’re fine” then that’s cool.

What about starting with no choke after sitting? Might just be a tad rich.
The only possible disaster here would be if your float seal is leaking and your engine is flooded. If it has a fuel petcock\shutoff, you could start shutting off the fuel when it is going to sit. If the problem goes away, and really tested, only then would I really be concerned.

This is juat generic advice for generic carbs. The SV650 might have fancy vacuum triggered petcocks in which case doing this doesn't do anything unless the petcock is also broke.

SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Aug 2, 2022

moxieman
Jul 30, 2013

I'd rather die than go to heaven.
Well, the difference between morning air and evening air can be 15 degrees (C) or so, dunno if that’s enough to make a difference in how much choke to use. I’ve been using a bit (probably 1/3) of choke to start it in the afternoon and that works best, but still takes a few more cranks than in the morning. No choke and full choke both won’t do it.

New plugs and a sync are on my to do list.

edit: yeah it has a vacuum operated petcock

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe

moxieman posted:

Well, the difference between morning air and evening air can be 15 degrees (C) or so, dunno if that’s enough to make a difference in how much choke to use.

It definitely is on the Rex. If it's the morning and 15° out I need 80 to 100% choke, if it's the afternoon and 32°, even if I haven't touched it all day, it'll get turning on no choke (albeit running at a lower idle than I'm comfortable with)

Doesn't need a bunch of cranks either way, but my carbs have proved to be very well set up

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




My carb'd SV also starts less easy when hot.
No choke and a bit of throttle always gets the job done within seconds though.

KidDynamite
Feb 11, 2005

How do you decide on crash protection hardware? I want to get an engine guard and some other stuff so I can start taking the tuareg off-road. I'm an idiot when it comes to this stuff.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

KidDynamite posted:

How do you decide on crash protection hardware? I want to get an engine guard and some other stuff so I can start taking the tuareg off-road. I'm an idiot when it comes to this stuff.

If you are serious about offroading get a bash plate and a full wraparound cage. With most manufacturers you can choose between an upper and lower part, with one protecting the fairings and the other the motor housing.

KidDynamite
Feb 11, 2005

I meant more choosing a brand that makes the stuff. How do you know it's quality that won't break? Like there's a large difference in pricing for example engine guard: heed ~190
swmotech ~450

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


KidDynamite posted:

I meant more choosing a brand that makes the stuff. How do you know it's quality that won't break? Like there's a large difference in pricing for example engine guard: heed ~190
swmotech ~450

I don't know the answer, but the official Yamaha engine guard is $329, and the skid plate is $380, so I'd just go with those. At least you know they'll fit.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
google, forums, reddit, experience, pouring through their assembly instructions, etc.

Geekboy
Aug 21, 2005

Now that's what I call a geekMAN!
I’m hardly an expert, but I’ve been really happy with the quality of stuff I’ve seen and gotten from SW-Motech. Those Germans are very precise.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

KidDynamite posted:

I meant more choosing a brand that makes the stuff. How do you know it's quality that won't break? Like there's a large difference in pricing for example engine guard: heed ~190
swmotech ~450

I'd look at what they mount to as well so you don't get a bash plate attached to the headers like a guzzi ADV.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

KidDynamite posted:

I meant more choosing a brand that makes the stuff. How do you know it's quality that won't break? Like there's a large difference in pricing for example engine guard: heed ~190
swmotech ~450

Look at the installation instructions and consider the mount points. Some people dislike them mounted to the engine I think, but I also believe there aren't any alternatives on most bikes. The real differences besides that are just coverage and ease of assembly. There isn't going to be a crash bar that's gonna break, while another wouldn't have, in any scenario I can think of where the bike wouldn't be utterly hosed anyway. Like if you crash in a way that breaks any halfway decent crashbar, the bike will be hosed up in many other ways. SW-Motech is a premium brand and you pay for that, but functionality will be the same for any reputable brand. It's more about fit and finish, as well as available accessories.

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

I think I'm wrong about my VanVan's factory chain, which a hasty search when I bought it convinced me was an O-ring but I wonder if that was confirmation bias in hindsight. I only just learned of the existence of small street bikes that don't come with them.

Any advice on tracking down a chain's specifications or how the model number breaks down? I'm having trouble finding details on what my OM declares to be a 110-link "DID520DMA4", even on DID's website. The closest I've got is a table that doesn't list it, unless the "DMA4" part of the name should be ignored and this is just a "DID520"? It is a small bike, table says small bike? https://didchain.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/2020-Chain-Spec-Chart.pdf

I've been gaining an inch of slack roughly every 400 miles(!). Have been tightening the axle nuts to the specified 48 ft-lb and the adjustment nuts reasonably tight. It's due again, and I should be able to measure how much it's stretched since I got it. I also plan to bang on the tire with a mallet to make sure it's solidly against the spacers, but if that's been my problem I would expect the sag to reappear sooner.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Suzuki specs a DID520DMA (114 links) for the VanVan. That chain is used on a bunch of other bikes, most of them small and/or old.
I don't know for sure if it's an o-ring chain by looking online. DID520STD is specifically non-oring but I can't find what the DMA portion of the part number is

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Remy Marathe posted:

I think I'm wrong about my VanVan's factory chain, which a hasty search when I bought it convinced me was an O-ring but I wonder if that was confirmation bias in hindsight. I only just learned of the existence of small street bikes that don't come with them.

Any advice on tracking down a chain's specifications or how the model number breaks down? I'm having trouble finding details on what my OM declares to be a 110-link "DID520DMA4", even on DID's website. The closest I've got is a table that doesn't list it, unless the "DMA4" part of the name should be ignored and this is just a "DID520"? It is a small bike, table says small bike? https://didchain.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/2020-Chain-Spec-Chart.pdf

I've been gaining an inch of slack roughly every 400 miles(!). Have been tightening the axle nuts to the specified 48 ft-lb and the adjustment nuts reasonably tight. It's due again, and I should be able to measure how much it's stretched since I got it. I also plan to bang on the tire with a mallet to make sure it's solidly against the spacers, but if that's been my problem I would expect the sag to reappear sooner.

Just get a 120 link 520 and shorten it :shrug:

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

It's not the length that's throwing me, it looks like that's just a matter of getting the right tool, I just can't figure out whether I have an o-ring chain and something's fucky with my tensioning, or I have a non-o-ring that I've been failing to oil on the reg that should be replaced asap anyway, because who wants a chain that has to be tightened every 400mi.

If I measure the 20-pin length and there's a noticeable amount of stretch in the last 1200 miles, can I assume it's a garbage chain?

e; alternate possibility, my failure to oil it regularly has in fact MADE it stretch and it would've lasted way longer?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

1. Observe the chain with thine eyes
2. Observe the o-ring or absence thereof between the inner and outer links, verily

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

I have apparently never looked that closely at my chains, because I never took the ring to be visible, thought it was inside the barrel or whatever.

I will take a magnifying glass out there tomorrow.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Posteth yon lithograph, if ye be uncertain

Captain McAllister
May 24, 2001


This page has a comparison/what to look for image between O-ring and non.

From your description (and since the initial Van Van was launched in the early 70s), it's most likely you have a non o-ring chain.

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice
Pretty much have to maintain standard chains constantly. Standard chains you can kinda just wipe them and throw some gear oil on. The oil gets sucked up between the rollers. Pretty much should do that very often. Imo adjust tension when they are warmed up and freshly lubricated, it'll have the most slack.

Sealed chains are nicer. Maxima makes a good cleaning set of chemicals. Way less maintenance.

The chain may or may not be messed up. Try cleaning, oiling, riding a bit, then tension. See if it lasts longer than a ride or two.

Has anyone actually ever had good luck with a chain breaker, that supposudly pops rivited link pins out?
I had a way better time with a bench grinder on the rivets to cut a chain down.

It's probably the chain but inspect your engine mount bolts too. Don't over torque them but make sure the engine isn't wiggling.

SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Aug 6, 2022

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Yeah I got a beefy one that works very well, tried on 520 size. I'll try to remember a picture later

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Chain breakers are not really needed anymore with the advent of cordless angle grinders. A riveting tool like dids are still needed though.

https://www.amazon.com/D-I-D-KASHIMARU-KUN50-TAGLIA-CATENA-RIVETTATORE/

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe
Cordless angle grinders: the tool that pays for itself (if you know someone willing to fence catalytic converters)

Captain McAllister
May 24, 2001


Phy posted:

Cordless angle grinders: the tool that pays for itself (if you know someone willing to fence catalytic converters)

It's cordless sawzalls around here...

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
the angle grinder is great if you're a bike thief though

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass
I'm on the waitlist for a chonk-rear end £300 U lock that's got some kind of graphene gubbins layered around the steel shackle that's specifically designed to shred angle grinder discs. Looks pretty nifty.

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice

Supradog posted:

Chain breakers are not really needed anymore with the advent of cordless angle grinders. A riveting tool like dids are still needed though.

https://www.amazon.com/D-I-D-KASHIMARU-KUN50-TAGLIA-CATENA-RIVETTATORE/

I've been using master links and clips am I gonna die

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Renaissance Robot posted:

I'm on the waitlist for a chonk-rear end £300 U lock that's got some kind of graphene gubbins layered around the steel shackle that's specifically designed to shred angle grinder discs. Looks pretty nifty.

You still gotta lock it to something, which probably isn't coated in graphene gubbins.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

I've been using master links and clips am I gonna die

Only if you have like 50+ horsepower

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Slavvy posted:

Only if you have like 50+ horsepower

You can use 2 for up to 100HP

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

Thanks y'all, trip report: Derp. It is a non-O-ring chain on the VanVan (and 110 links confirmed). Now that I know where I'm looking I can plainly see the O-rings for comparison on the T120's chain.

Lubed and tightened Vanvan's chain to ~ 0.75" play, rode it briefly to warm it up, re-lubed found it at 1" so tightened it up again. I'll keep a closer eye on it and lube it more regularly till I get around to installing a lower maintenance chain, I've been giving it the Maxima O-ring Neglect treatment so far. No sign of loose engine mounts.

The 20-pin count hasn't changed a bit in the last 1200 miles by my records, that doesn't seem consistent with the idea that it's been stretching. But everything else suggests this is normal chain behavior given what it is :shrug:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Remy Marathe posted:

Thanks y'all, trip report: Derp. It is a non-O-ring chain on the VanVan (and 110 links confirmed). Now that I know where I'm looking I can plainly see the O-rings for comparison on the T120's chain.

Lubed and tightened Vanvan's chain to ~ 0.75" play, rode it briefly to warm it up, re-lubed found it at 1" so tightened it up again. I'll keep a closer eye on it and lube it more regularly till I get around to installing a lower maintenance chain, I've been giving it the Maxima O-ring Neglect treatment so far. No sign of loose engine mounts.

The 20-pin count hasn't changed a bit in the last 1200 miles by my records, that doesn't seem consistent with the idea that it's been stretching. But everything else suggests this is normal chain behavior given what it is :shrug:

Consider that the sprockets also wear.

Also idk where this 'measuring 20 links' idea came from but I've never heard of it.

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

I pulled that pin counting thing from the FSM, but on re-read I just did it wrong and should've measured 21 pins, not 20, and can't say for sure whether I did it right during my post-purchase inspections.

From the earlier section of the FSM that pertains to older VanVans with DID 428 chains:

quote:

Count out 21 pins (20-pitch) on the chain [and] measure the distance between the two points. If the distance exceeds the service limit, the chain must be replaced.

The specification table in the newer section that pertains more specifically to my 2018's chain gives a "20pitch length" of 12.57 inches. Adjusting for the fact that I should've measured one more pin earlier, mine's around 12.25" right now.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Bizarre. I just look at the chain and work out if it's hosed, it's usually pretty obvious what with the red iron filings and tambourine rattle.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
What ARE you talking about?

Step back here please. What Are you trying to solve?

Modern chain solutions are available for any non obscure bike since the 80s.

Get a loving modern did / rk chain xring and JT sprocket kit. DONE. Changeing sprockets and chain as a set is a good idea,and NOT hard.

ANY BIKE(*) from ANY(*) manufacturer has sprocket and chain kits readily available from any bigger bike stores website .

*(Small chinese or Italian rebrands excluded.)

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




“Chain” is a standardized industrial Lego piece.

They’re all the same thing just different sizes. You may have a hard time finding sprockets for some bikes but never chain.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Slavvy posted:

Consider that the sprockets also wear.

Also idk where this 'measuring 20 links' idea came from but I've never heard of it.

Some bicycle chain wear gauges work like that. It's a go/no go gauge you insert at any one link and if the other end inserts into the chain cleanly, it's worn past a certain point.
I don't remember how many links it covers, but obviously it's a fixed number. Probably less than 20

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

TotalLossBrain posted:

Some bicycle chain wear gauges work like that. It's a go/no go gauge you insert at any one link and if the other end inserts into the chain cleanly, it's worn past a certain point.
I don't remember how many links it covers, but obviously it's a fixed number. Probably less than 20

Yeah I'm familiar with those, happily my bicycle has a Nexus hub so I just need to replace it when I run out of travel in the dropouts :v:

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply