Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


mobby_6kl posted:

I have a couple of annoying issues. One is alternator ? belt squeal. I'm pretty sure at least it's the cause. It seemed like it was fixed when I had the engine-out frame rail repair when they replaced the belt but it's back to squealing on startup. Could it be something else? It really doesn't sound like a bearing to me but at this point :shrug:

Definitely one of the accessory belts. After I did the water pump on mine I had a noise which turned out to be one of the belts needing a few more turns on the adjuster to tighten it up a bit. After that all good.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
Probably just needs the belt tightened up. I had an occasional squeal and when I put a tension gauge on it turned out both belts were so loose they barely registered.

Assuming the system is fully charged with refrigerant, check the pressure cut off switches. I can't check the specifics right now, but usually there will be a switch that shuts off power to the compressor if the pressure is too high and a second switch if it's too low. Often these will both have continuity if everything is working.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
I suppose it's possible they didn't tighten it properly :)

Trying to loosen the rear alternator bolt was such a nightmare that I didn't want to try it again, but hopefully it'll come out easier now.

boxen
Feb 20, 2011
A friend of mine's mother just traded in her 2003 Miata, and the dealership didn't want the hard top. She ALMOST took it to the junkyard to get rid of it but I convinced her it was worth listing on craigslist, but I don't know how much they're really worth. A quick google search told me anywhere from several hundred to a couple thousand.

It's in good shape and spent most of the time she owned it wrapped up in blankets and cardboard to avoid getting scratched. I really doubt they're going to want to try and ship it anywhere, but what would be a good price to throw it up on craigslist for?

Poisonlizard
Apr 1, 2007

Cat Hatter posted:

Probably just needs the belt tightened up. I had an occasional squeal and when I put a tension gauge on it turned out both belts were so loose they barely registered.

Assuming the system is fully charged with refrigerant, check the pressure cut off switches. I can't check the specifics right now, but usually there will be a switch that shuts off power to the compressor if the pressure is too high and a second switch if it's too low. Often these will both have continuity if everything is working.

Thank you, knew I was missing something there, forgot that low pressure switch is down by the headlight bucket. I'll check that tonight

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

boxen posted:

A friend of mine's mother just traded in her 2003 Miata, and the dealership didn't want the hard top. She ALMOST took it to the junkyard to get rid of it but I convinced her it was worth listing on craigslist, but I don't know how much they're really worth. A quick google search told me anywhere from several hundred to a couple thousand.

It's in good shape and spent most of the time she owned it wrapped up in blankets and cardboard to avoid getting scratched. I really doubt they're going to want to try and ship it anywhere, but what would be a good price to throw it up on craigslist for?

If you want market price then list it for $2k

Hikaki
Oct 11, 2005
Motherfucking Fujitsu Heavy Industries

mobby_6kl posted:

Another one is a weird rattle from the gearbox/clutch. I think I had it happen a few times before, and I thought that whatever it was, would be gone after a clutch job. But apparently not, but again it's very rare. A few times it sounded like something was just rattling in that area in neutral, and pressing and releasing the clutch stopped it. I've really no idea what could be causing this, maybe the throwout bearing rattling on the fork? Any ideas guys?

Does the rattling stop if you put even the lightest pressure on the clutch pedal? I had that problem a little while back and bleeding the clutch fluid fixed it for me. Another possible solution is lubing up the clutch fork. Essentially the problem is that there is some play between the clutch pedal and fork and you can either tighten it up (bleed the clutch or even replace the slave cylinder if it's not providing enough pressure anymore) or mask the issue with lube.

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


boxen posted:

A friend of mine's mother just traded in her 2003 Miata, and the dealership didn't want the hard top. She ALMOST took it to the junkyard to get rid of it but I convinced her it was worth listing on craigslist, but I don't know how much they're really worth. A quick google search told me anywhere from several hundred to a couple thousand.

It's in good shape and spent most of the time she owned it wrapped up in blankets and cardboard to avoid getting scratched. I really doubt they're going to want to try and ship it anywhere, but what would be a good price to throw it up on craigslist for?

I've always been quite shocked at how much hard tops sell for over there. You can get them here for about £400 and I'd by lying if I didn't think about buying a bunch up and shipping them over :v:

rowebot44
Feb 21, 2006

Coredump posted:

I meant to ask, are you going to do a project thread for this at some point or is there already one out there?

I am too lazy to do a thread but will post occasional updates here.

rowebot44
Feb 21, 2006
Speaking of updates, I'm making slow progress I only get about 3-4 hours a week to work on the car but some bigger parts are in.

First was the firewall and trans tunnel.


Next the rear panels went in.


Then brake lines and fuel lines went in.



Finally the radiator was installed.


Currently working on the exhaust after diff bushings and new engine mounts were installed.

kuf
May 12, 2007
aaaaaa
Is there really a big difference in handling/lightness between the Grand Touring and Club in the ND?

I rented a 2016 club on vacation a month ago and wanted one almost immediately. It was just so light and go-karty. Went to a Carmax to test a 2016 grand touring and it felt… heavy? I was shocked that I didn’t feel an instant “this is fun” like I think I felt with the club. I know the club has a sportier suspension etc., but I would think the difference wouldn’t be so huge to a casual like myself.

Is it really that big of a difference? If it’s all in my head I’ll go get the GT, it was definitely more comfortable.

kuf fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Jul 23, 2022

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
if you want to go as fast as possible, the arctic white sport is the lightest car. afaik all of the GTs have the sport suspension or an option for it at least.

if you can deal with the 20lb weight penalty of having a red car, you can probably deal with an extra 5 lbs for the stereo or whatever.

the 2016s though have like 160# springs in the front and 80# in the rear for sport/GT whereas the club gets 100# (and an auburn style LSD). the cars are also extremely sensitive to both alignment settings and tires.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

Newer Grand Tourings have the fancy billstiens that the clubs have so that might help a little. [At least I'm pretty sure remembering reading that or learning at an autox]

Swapping in some progress or comparable springs would go a long way and look great, help with the roll too; wouldn't even have to touch the sway bar then if your not performance driving.



Update on versatuner: it's pretty cool, I can feel a slight difference over stock (but I am at a very high elevation), certainly worth it if you race, those extra revs on the top end could be the difference and even if you just enjoy modding.

Hikaki
Oct 11, 2005
Motherfucking Fujitsu Heavy Industries

Virgil Vox posted:

Update on versatuner: it's pretty cool, I can feel a slight difference over stock (but I am at a very high elevation), certainly worth it if you race, those extra revs on the top end could be the difference and even if you just enjoy modding.

Yeah I feel like the extra revs is the main thing that makes it worth it. I don't race and the 6800 redline isn't that bad but there seems to be an annoying soft cutoff slightly below that that I ended up hitting often in first gear. With the tune it's a non-issue.

kuf
May 12, 2007
aaaaaa

kuf posted:

Is there really a big difference in handling/lightness between the Grand Touring and Club in the ND?
... Went to a Carmax to test a 2016 grand touring and it felt… heavy? I was shocked that I didn’t feel an instant “this is fun” like I think I felt with the club…

Update: lol got to take the car out for longer, realized it was probably alignment issues. I also serendipitously ran into a Miata club and someone pointed out instantly some spots where cheap paint work might have been used to cover up accident damage, then I got to drive in a 30+ long Miata centipede down the mountain with a nice sunset, pretty great test drive for a car I’m sadly not gonna get. Probably should just buy new if I’m so picky

kuf fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Jul 24, 2022

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I mean I wouldn't buy a car that's been wrecked.with cheap work done either. I wouldn't consider myself picky.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Recommendation on where I can get good touch up paint? Smurfette has a bunch of spots i need to prep and or touch up before they turn to rust

Voltage
Sep 4, 2004

MALT LIQUOR!
I have a dr colorchip kit for my miata, going to try that soon. Also just got this for my yaris https://www.automotivetouchup.com i did the 3 bottles, 1 primer, 1 base and 1 clear and i got some blunt syringes from amazon to apply it - going to try the ammo nyc method https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WLJnqiBxKtg

Will post a trip report on it this week if i have time.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Sounds good. I have some larger spots that will need more than a syringe. Gunna need some model paint brushes.

Body will never be top quality, but don't want the fenders to ruat off because the had some small chips.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
OK, so, some baseline statements:

* I want a white miata RF
* I can and will be paying cash
* I am terrified of dealers and their loving shenanigans. I am awful at poker.

What is my approach to get the best prices on a ND? Should I play dumb and slow when they quote me a price (assuming some stupid 15% interest on their side) and then be all "sounds good i'll have a check here tomorrow" and then fight it out? This is so adversarial. I hate dealers. I got owned hard on a Subaru and don't want to get hosed again.

Voltage
Sep 4, 2004

MALT LIQUOR!
You just need to go to ~5 different dealers and be super firm - their entire job is to rob and scam you, so you just have find the guy that will buckle. It's a real bad time to buy a car but its doable. If you are paying cash they will try and jack up the cost of the car with useless extras, or maybe not even sell it to you, so watch out for that.

Possibly worth checking carvana etc, but it can be a huge gamble to get a car sight unseen.

If you have the time/energy, fly to another state or to an area with a few mazda dealers close by.

I've helped a ton of friends buy cars and it's all just a really lovely game. Private party is always the easiest to get deals but dealers are always the worst.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
Also, like, the primary seller of RFs in Denver seems to be Carvana. How much paranoid bullshit should i stack on top of my extant i-hate-car-dealers mood to be able to stand up to them? Literally do not know. help friends

Voltage
Sep 4, 2004

MALT LIQUOR!
Carvana is a very easy car buying experience from what I hear, I sold a car to them and it was hilariously painless - they came with a tow truck and the money was in my account before they drove off.

If you are buying a car there have them send tons of pictures and video, if you like the car, buy it and they ship it to your door. Worst case scenario you just waste your time, since you get a 7 day money back guarantee.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Read and understand all paperwork.
Tell them they have to knock off $5/min you have to spend listening about their 4,000 warranty and simonize extreme kote ceramic high tex protect.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Jonny 290 posted:

OK, so, some baseline statements:

* I want a white miata RF
* I can and will be paying cash
* I am terrified of dealers and their loving shenanigans. I am awful at poker.

What is my approach to get the best prices on a ND? Should I play dumb and slow when they quote me a price (assuming some stupid 15% interest on their side) and then be all "sounds good i'll have a check here tomorrow" and then fight it out? This is so adversarial. I hate dealers. I got owned hard on a Subaru and don't want to get hosed again.

AFAIK having cash isn't really a bargaining chip. Almost anyone can get financing for a car, and that's how dealers make a lot of their money. This is in the context of new or lightly used cars. If you're talking like 30 year old Ferraris or something, then it's different.

Anyway I've bought 2 new cars and 1 used car from dealers, and I never felt any pressure to buy anything besides the car. I just said "no thank you" and we moved on. Maybe a waste of time, but oh well. Figure out what price you want to pay and then find someone to sell it to you for that.

Just out of curiosity, I looked on Carvana, and this car is in the results whether I say I'm in Denver or San Francisco, at 29,590 either way, so probably not much in way of haggling with Carvana I imagine.

Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost
Yeah, if you're buying a new car at a old timey dealership, let them talk you into the cheaper price to finance it and then just pay the entirety of the loan on the 2nd payment (or whatever the first chance you get is. Check that it's something you can do quickly before signing.) Did that when we last bought a new car and it feels good.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
Does anyone know if the AC condenser on the NB2 is shared / is compatible with any other cars? I'd like to get AC to work but not at the :eyepop: OEM prices like this https://www.ilmotorsport.de/en/mx-5-air-conditioning-condensor-4572

Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal
Its 95 bucks on Amazon but most certainly made by prison labor.

Teach
Mar 28, 2008


Pillbug

Jonny 290 posted:

OK, so, some baseline statements:

* I want a white miata RF
* I can and will be paying cash
* I am terrified of dealers and their loving shenanigans. I am awful at poker.

What is my approach to get the best prices on a ND? Should I play dumb and slow when they quote me a price (assuming some stupid 15% interest on their side) and then be all "sounds good i'll have a check here tomorrow" and then fight it out? This is so adversarial. I hate dealers. I got owned hard on a Subaru and don't want to get hosed again.

Buying a car in America (???) sounds awful. Are the prices not listed on the windshield? Or is that base price, before all the bullshit gets loaded? As Toe Rag said, a polite "No thank you" should get you a long way.

Yesterday I took my ND out for a drive for the first time in a week or so. (I've been away.) It was a beautiful day, and while it was just my regular 20-minute roundtrip, it really invigorated me. Sounds sappy, I know, but I came back smiling.





Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


I'm loving DYING to get mine back on the road, every sunny day has me swearing to myself that I've probably been overly cautious hacking it to bits. I have a motorbike though so I'm still getting out a lot in the glorious weather but it would be nice not to have to wear the protective stuff!

djfooboo
Oct 16, 2004




Jonny 290 posted:

OK, so, some baseline statements:

* I want a white miata RF
* I can and will be paying cash
* I am terrified of dealers and their loving shenanigans. I am awful at poker.

What is my approach to get the best prices on a ND? Should I play dumb and slow when they quote me a price (assuming some stupid 15% interest on their side) and then be all "sounds good i'll have a check here tomorrow" and then fight it out? This is so adversarial. I hate dealers. I got owned hard on a Subaru and don't want to get hosed again.

Deal with internet sales only. They can pull less poo poo because you have time to react and research.

Coca Koala
Nov 28, 2005

ongoing nowhere
College Slice
The way I’ve purchased my cars, including my miata, is by using a broker. I tell them “this is the car I want, these are the options that are must-haves, and here’s my time frame for when I need to have it.”

Several weeks later, they send me an email and say “here’s the best we’ve found so far - do you want this or should we keep looking?”, to which I reply “yeah that one looks good” and they say “great, show up at this dealership on this date, and don’t sign anything they give you until you take a picture of the contract and I review it for you. Anything they offer you, just say no.”

And then I go to the place at the time, say the things, send over a photo of the contract, and a few minutes later I’m driving away in my new car. They handle all the searching and price negotiation for me and while there’s a fee on top, I’d rather deal with them than an arbitrary number of dealerships.

A MIRACLE
Sep 17, 2007

All right. It's Saturday night; I have no date, a two-liter bottle of Shasta and my all-Rush mix-tape... Let's rock.

should I get another Miata? I haven't had a car for like 6 weeks now and it would make it easier to get around up here, the bus only comes by like once an hour.

https://www.raysfortuna.com/vehicle-details/2012-mazda-mx-5-miata-touring-convertible-624933626a0f0d40b5b359e980c90796

this would be my third miata. anything to look out for on the NC2? Is there a timing belt replacement I should be looking for at this mileage like with the NA?

edit ah drat someone else got it

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

A MIRACLE posted:

should I get another Miata? I haven't had a car for like 6 weeks now and it would make it easier to get around up here, the bus only comes by like once an hour.

https://www.raysfortuna.com/vehicle-details/2012-mazda-mx-5-miata-touring-convertible-624933626a0f0d40b5b359e980c90796

this would be my third miata. anything to look out for on the NC2? Is there a timing belt replacement I should be looking for at this mileage like with the NA?

edit ah drat someone else got it

I believe the NC has a timing chain. NA and NB used timing belts. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


yeah tats a good price for an HT NC so not surprised it went fast..

netaJew is corrrect NC's are Timing Chains

Miatas are nice.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

A MIRACLE posted:

should I get another Miata?

yes

Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal

MetaJew posted:

I believe the NC has a timing chain. NA and NB used timing belts. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Buy an NC and if the timing chain goes replace the whole engine with a ford fusions.

GOD IS BED
Jun 17, 2010

ALL HAIL GOD MAMMON
:minnie:

College Slice

A MIRACLE posted:

this would be my third miata. anything to look out for on the NC2? Is there a timing belt replacement I should be looking for at this mileage like with the NA?

As others mentioned, it has a timing chain. My NC2 has had two issues I would watch out for if buying one:
A rear axle seal went bad and leaked out some fluid before it got fixed.
Rear differential had a service bulletin where a lapping compound during manufacture would mess up the diff so it would generate a whine around 50mph. They fixed the issue in 2013, but mine has the whine. It's not too bad with a fresh fluid change, but it's definitely noticeable a week or so after the fluid change.

JohnnySavs
Dec 28, 2004

I have all the characteristics of a human being.
Is there a well-produced end to end tutorial on adding my particular roll bar to an Nb? It's been sitting in my garage for months and I just need to get some confidence on cutting metal and drilling holes into the sheet metal around the seatbelt restraints. Right?

Ace bar, double diagonal supports part 907-108, 1990-2005.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


Not the exact bar but AFAIK they're all remarkably similar in terms of install (there's nowhere else they can be fitted!) so this video shouldn't steer you wrong.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oJ9WpeDhZo


While I'm here I'd like some induction noise eventually and I can't afford ITBs, is there anything out there for an NB to replace the stock intake that isn't a billion dollars and sounds nice?

Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Aug 14, 2022

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply