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3D Printers: dissatisfactory suppository repository
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Aug 10, 2022 02:10
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| # ? May 20, 2024 10:42 |
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As soon as I get my printer back together, this is my next print. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdt8GCBKEHk I got some SM58s and this would be rad.
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Aug 10, 2022 03:18
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CF PETG is as aesthetic as I had hoped, can't wait to print a bunch of my workbench and desk stuff in it
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Aug 10, 2022 03:29
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I'm pretty sure a chill pill needs to look like a Xanax.
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Aug 10, 2022 03:39
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Mikey Purp posted:My part is warping and pulling off the print bed at pretty much the exact same point every time, even though I have it in a chamber at 35-40 C. Is this just a matter of getting better bed adhesion? I'm using a PEI sheet on a glass bed, but the PEI might have worn out. I was thinking about trying an abs slurry next. That chamber is.. a bit chilly. Have you watched the series by Nero3dp about printing ABS? Trying to fix abs by chasing bed adhesion is a path to madness. Shrinking ABS has a LOT of pull. If you get it to stick well enough, it'll start lifting your bed, or bending your bed. I forgot, what printer do you have? And what are the settings you're running? Tell us more! Notes for the meantime: Filament at at least 250. 265 isn't a bad plan either. Bed at 100 or 110 to start, do not let the bed cool at all. (a lot of profiles seem to want to drop that off after a few layers..) And heat soak that setup for a while. Even my V0 needs a 15 minute heat soak to get things started after a complete cool down. Acid Reflux posted:Well, poo poo. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Aug 10, 2022 |
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Aug 10, 2022 04:06
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Mikey Purp posted:Adventures in ABS printing, day 2. adding to what Nerobro said, enclose the printer (you did), insulate the enclosure with fluffy blankets until the exterior of the blankets are room temp (might take an inch or more), and put some fans inside the chamber swirling air around. ABS really wants 80C chambers, does Good Enough at 60, and struggles progressively harder under that. Let it heat soak with bed at 110C for a loving long time. Trying to adhere it down will just break things or delaminate your part. You can put the toolhead at the top of your Z travel and use it as a crude chamber sensor if you want. Just don't heat it while heatsoaking with the bed. Once the toolhead itself reads 50C or so, then heat it to 265C and go.
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Aug 10, 2022 05:10
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insta posted:You can put the toolhead at the top of your Z travel and use it as a crude chamber sensor if you want. Just don't heat it while heatsoaking with the bed. Once the toolhead itself reads 50C or so, then heat it to 265C and go. Digital thermometer/thermostat modules are extremely cheap and you can wire one into your printer's power supply.
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Aug 10, 2022 05:22
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Thanks for the advice but loving hell, PIF looks better and better by the minute. Tomorrow I will give it one more college try with a properly heated enclosure and see what happens. One other question Re: building a voron...the kits through 3dprinterbay do not include a raspberry pi. I assume there's no way to avoid having to source one on my own, right?
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Aug 10, 2022 05:34
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You can snipe the one I have on eBay or use an OrangePi/BananaPi/any small computer that can run Linux
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Aug 10, 2022 05:43
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Mikey Purp posted:Thanks for the advice but loving hell, PIF looks better and better by the minute. Tomorrow I will give it one more college try with a properly heated enclosure and see what happens. There's something real satisfying about getting abs to play nice. At least there's "a formula to follow". You don't need a raspberry pi to run klipper. You can run it on anything that will run linux, and ideally has a USB port. Klipper doesn't care. so.. you could use a lemon, orange, or other fruity flavor SBC. Or... if you need to just get by for a while, a laptop, a desktop, any sort of thing can do the job for you. The job of getting klipper going is only very slightly harder as you need to install linux, then klipper, as opposed to just throwing on a known good image. insta posted:You can snipe the one I have on eBay or use an OrangePi/BananaPi/any small computer that can run Linux This. Edit: If you're desperate, I can drop you the e-mail of a buddy. He's got a dozen thinkcenter m700's which would do klipper and as many cameras as you dare wire up super well. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Aug 10, 2022 |
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Aug 10, 2022 05:56
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These all look amazingly chill. I was assuming negative space "chill" as I assumed it would be easier than positive space. Might have used the wrong term? Like engraved into it. Either way I love it. To be clear please do not put these into your body regardless of how funny it sounds.
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Aug 10, 2022 06:06
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H110Hawk posted:These all look amazingly chill. I'd love to know the thread you intended this to be in. --------------------------- Edit: Boy I'm dumb. And my brain went to really interesting places based on that set of words. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Aug 10, 2022 |
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Aug 10, 2022 06:11
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Nerobro posted:I'd love to know the thread you intended this to be in. This thread, it's about the mod challenge.
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Aug 10, 2022 06:19
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Nerobro posted:I'd love to know the thread you intended this to be in. 
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Aug 10, 2022 06:36
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I'm seeing some pretty amazing prices on a Anycubic Mono 2k. Would I regret this purchase over a bigger build plate or higher resolution? I already have a Prusa FDM printer for larger prints and am keen on Resin. A bigger built plate does appeal to me though. Is it much more cleanup?
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Aug 10, 2022 10:34
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H110Hawk posted:These all look amazingly chill. Positive space = Emboss and negative space = Deboss IIRC? So like this? That would simplify things. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5350438
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Aug 10, 2022 11:02
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I imagined a simple pressed embossed pill like: but that's just me
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Aug 10, 2022 14:50
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This whole saga reminds me of https://www.davidoreilly.com/extw
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Aug 10, 2022 15:17
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:I imagined a simple pressed embossed pill 
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Aug 10, 2022 15:43
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Anyone else with the Phrozen Mighty XL having trouble connecting it to Wi-fi? I've tried my regular network, and my 2.4ghz only network, and can't get either to connect.
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Aug 10, 2022 16:03
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Positive space = Emboss and negative space = Deboss IIRC? Your choice. Writing is strictly optional.
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Aug 10, 2022 16:20
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I think part of the confusion with emboss vs. deboss is that when you emboss on paper you get both depending on whether you are looking at the front or the back. On a 3d solid it is less complicated.
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Aug 10, 2022 16:25
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Who you suckers think you printing with? Yes, I'm debossed
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Aug 10, 2022 16:27
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H110Hawk posted:Your choice. Writing is strictly optional. Depending on how that batch print turned out will determine if I change things. My luck, they immediately lost adhesion when the thunderstorms broke last night and I'll have a ball of molten plastic on the hotend
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Aug 10, 2022 16:35
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I got my printer put back together and going last night. Now that I can hopefully get this direct drive system squared away. Here’s this morning’s Benchy. Material is PLA+, .4 mm nozzle, nozzle/bed 200/60, glass bed, retraction distance of 1 mm and retraction speed of 27mm. Sliced in Cura 5.1, with no fiddling besides the retraction settings. I can see minor stringing issues, already. Honored Grognard Grandpersons, lend me your wisdom.     
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Aug 10, 2022 23:32
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I turned my bed down to 50 for PLA as a result of the kind of first layer squashing you're seeing on the text there
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Aug 10, 2022 23:36
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Depending on how that batch print turned out will determine if I change things. As prophesied:  Welp. Gonna turn the hotend to 250 and let the heat soak while I get stuff ready for work tomorrow and then run the elongated suppositories after I get it cleaned up.
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Aug 10, 2022 23:41
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Marsupial Ape posted:nozzle/bed 200/60 I'm going to posit that this is one of those edge cases where your stringing is actually caused by the filament not being quite hot enough. 200 is pretty cool for a PLA+ blend, at least in my experience - which, while obviously being a very small sample size, does consist of printing almost exclusively with PLA+ for several years now. I've seen that same kind of effect, where a noticeable little blob of filament seems to stretch and pull away from the surface, when the temp was too low. I'd run it again with a minimum of 210C at the nozzle and see how it goes. Can't guarantee it's going to make a difference for you, of course, but it's what I'd try based on what's happened to me in the past. biracial bear for uncut posted:As prophesied: 
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Aug 10, 2022 23:56
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It's unfucked now. Got a sample spool loaded in a "chill" color to do the elongated tablet set. I think the big round pills need tilting off the vertical axis so there isn't so much overhang. Looks like the slope has to have supports otherwise. There may be stray red whisps here and there because I didn't scrub it clean, but the whole mass basically dripped off the hotend onto the cold build plate while I was getting things ready.
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Aug 11, 2022 00:05
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Javid posted:I turned my bed down to 50 for PLA as a result of the kind of first layer squashing you're seeing on the text there That could also because I can get too aggressive with my z offset, especually when using the glass bed. I will try the lower temp, though. I was using Cura base settings for known variable purposes. Acid Reflux posted:I'm going to posit that this is one of those edge cases where your stringing is actually caused by the filament not being quite hot enough. 200 is pretty cool for a PLA+ blend, at least in my experience - which, while obviously being a very small sample size, does consist of printing almost exclusively with PLA+ for several years now. I've seen that same kind of effect, where a noticeable little blob of filament seems to stretch and pull away from the surface, when the temp was too low. I’ll give that a try. This is the Overture PLA plus, which may or may not be plussed up via TPU. Depends on who you ask. If that is the case, it would raise the melting point. But my retraction distance speed should be good, right? That’s my main variable with the direct drive.
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Aug 11, 2022 00:06
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Was that the Neptune 3? Mine still hasn't produced a shipping notice yet. 
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Aug 11, 2022 00:06
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Ygolonac posted:Was that the Neptune 3? Mine still hasn't produced a shipping notice yet. Marsupial Ape posted:But my retraction distance speed should be good, right? That’s my main variable with the direct drive. That's pretty close to what my two DD machines are set at. I think both are still at 0.8 and 30mm/sec, and while I still have a little bit of stringing that I've never bothered to dial out any further, it's literally just wisps that you can rub off with a finger. I tend to print a lot of stuff a little too hot and a little too fast though, because most of it is pretty extensively post-processed and gets sanded/filled within an inch of its life anyway. Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Aug 11, 2022 |
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Aug 11, 2022 00:47
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Marsupial Ape posted:But my retraction distance speed should be good, right? That’s my main variable with the direct drive. Yeah! Personally, I run .6mm at 40mm/s, but it'll be different for different filaments and you're in the right ballpark. Make sure to run through your slicer settings and change any settings that look suspiciously bowden-specific, I had "retract before wipe" turned on with my bowden, but direct drive it was causing all sorts of problems.
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Aug 11, 2022 00:58
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:Yeah! Personally, I run .6mm at 40mm/s, but it'll be different for different filaments and you're in the right ballpark. Make sure to run through your slicer settings and change any settings that look suspiciously bowden-specific, I had "retract before wipe" turned on with my bowden, but direct drive it was causing all sorts of problems. I will definitely check that when I get home.
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Aug 11, 2022 02:15
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Marsupial Ape posted:I got my printer put back together and going last night. Now that I can hopefully get this direct drive system squared away. Here’s this morning’s Benchy. Material is PLA+, .4 mm nozzle, nozzle/bed 200/60, glass bed, retraction distance of 1 mm and retraction speed of 27mm. Sliced in Cura 5.1, with no fiddling besides the retraction settings.
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Aug 11, 2022 03:05
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Also, I upgraded my hotend to a Micro Swiss. Does it being an all metal head factor into retraction at all?
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Aug 11, 2022 03:18
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Marsupial Ape posted:Also, I upgraded my hotend to a Micro Swiss. Does it being an all metal head factor into retraction at all? It's recommended to run about 5c hotter on micro swiss all metal hotends if I remember correctly. I don't think you need to change retraction for it though. I did have some trouble with a micro swiss all metal hotend, kept getting poor extrusion/clogging. I replaced it with another support sent me and it worked fine after that! I don't know if i just had some crazy clog I couldn't see or what was going on but they sent me another free of charge so all's good. Still using that hotend now and it's holding up well.
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Aug 11, 2022 03:52
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 Call For Updated Recommendations I made the OP in July 2021 and, shockingly, I think it's a good idea to keep it up to date. I'd like to get the printer recommendations post updated for TYOOL 2022 as well as any new or changed information which should be in the first post. One change I was thinking of...is it even worth mentioning 2K and non-mono resin printers anymore? My good ol' Mars Pro is chugging along just fine but I don't know if I'd recommend anyone buy such a thing new at this point.
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Aug 11, 2022 04:04
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Marsupial Ape posted:Also, I upgraded my hotend to a Micro Swiss. Does it being an all metal head factor into retraction at all? Yeah, over-retraction with an all metal hot end can cause the hot end to seize up. You're running direct drive, so it shouldn't be a problem.
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Aug 11, 2022 04:17
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| # ? May 20, 2024 10:42 |
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Nerobro posted:Yeah, over-retraction with an all metal hot end can cause the hot end to seize up. You're running direct drive, so it shouldn't be a problem. That is something I did not know but will squirrel away for later. I do appreciate this kind of guidance. I like to elimanate small factors that I didn’t even know about so I can have some confidence while doing the hard work of figuring out what the best speed to quality ratio I can get out of this thing. Despite my love of largely unneeded bespoke upgrades, I am well aware of the good/fast/cheap triad and the concept of diminishing returns. Except for maybe slapping a linear rail on the gantry for funsies, I’ve come to the end of the road for the things I can do the machine and that makes me a little sad. I think I like loving with the 3D printer a little more than I like actually printing stuff. Surely, I can put some more fans of this fucker.
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Aug 11, 2022 04:34
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