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wooger posted:This is such a non-issue, people have toured on the same bike for a decade and not had an issue. quote:Why do you think anyone has a bike beyond 105, it’s not for function. Looking expensive is the selling point. just lol if you think electronic shifting is only desirable because it’s expensive
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Aug 2, 2022 14:42
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How many of you cold dead hand types have tried electric shifting?
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Aug 2, 2022 15:08
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I only use downtube friction shifters, indexing is already too much.
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Aug 2, 2022 15:13
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:How many of you cold dead hand types have tried electric shifting? I appreciate the reliable shifting and improved front shifting (not for eTap, lol). I have not benefitted from the ease of shifting into a long cold (frozen hand) ride, but I definitely see that as a huge benefit. However, like Slavvy, I really do like the visceral feel of cable tension and mechanisms moving when you're in between indexes in a mechnical groupset. If you're holding the lever/paddle 95% of the way into a shift, and then finish it, that feels faster than clicking the button from scratch. It might actually be faster (at least compared to a normal, unprepped shift) cuz the RD is also pulled over more? I've certainly tried with eTap and Di2 to do the same thing with the button switches, but they're too binary to get away with 'buffering' the shift.
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Aug 2, 2022 16:01
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Salt Fish posted:I only use downtube friction shifters, indexing is already too much. oh wow look at mr fancy, I reach down to the seat stay and actuate a lever 
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Aug 2, 2022 16:05
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Plastic carbon bikes and electronics in the moving parts goes against some of the things I enjoy most about cycling, and the marketing, manufacturing, financing and lifecycle of those parts is anathema to how I'm trying to live my life. Yes, I need to have a smartphone, and I need to use a computer and fast shipping companies for work, but that doesn't mean I can't try to jettison that from my hobbies and personal life wherever I can.
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Aug 2, 2022 16:09
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Slavvy posted:And that's assuming you don't have to actually take the pads OUT, yes let's just have 3 axes of adjustment all controlled by the one lovely lock nut where, again, you have to balance getting the pad perfectly orientated vs tightening it enough that it doesn't lose position and jam and kill you. Most of the time all you gotta do is put the pad in and squeeze the brake lever to hold the alignment as you tighten it up. There are tons of reasons to use disc brakes over rim brakes but between stuck pistons, bent rotors, hydraulic issues, alignment of caliper, constantly adjusting mechanical brakes for pad wear, ease of maintenance isn't it. Maybe less frequent maintenance if you get hydraulics that don't have defects.
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Aug 2, 2022 16:54
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Unlimited tire size and space for fenders is good enough reason to use disc brakes. Zero maintenance and immunity to rain are just bonuses. And electric shifting is coming whether you want it or not, unless you want to stay on low tier 11 speed groups forever. 105/rival+ = electric (and disc) only.
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Aug 2, 2022 17:07
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sweat poteto posted:, unless you want to stay on low tier 11 speed groups forever. 105/rival+ = electric (and disc) only. Yep, sounds good to me. E: actually if it's all the same to you I'll stay on 8-speed SimonSays fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Aug 2, 2022 |
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Aug 2, 2022 17:10
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Jan Heine wrote sometime ago that he predicts the enthusiast field is gonna split between electronic shifting or special down tube friction shifting (guess which he's selling). I tested my friend's desmodromic Cyclo rear derailleur from the 1940s and the shift feel is superbly light with no spring in the RD to resist so Heine may have a point here.
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Aug 2, 2022 17:23
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:How many of you cold dead hand types have tried electric shifting? Literally don't care if it's better in some way, I don't want electronics on my bicycle. sweat poteto posted:Unlimited tire size and space for fenders is good enough reason to use disc brakes. Zero maintenance and immunity to rain are just bonuses. Fine by me! Havana Affair posted:Jan Heine wrote sometime ago that he predicts the enthusiast field is gonna split between electronic shifting or special down tube friction shifting (guess which he's selling). I tested my friend's desmodromic Cyclo rear derailleur from the 1940s and the shift feel is superbly light with no spring in the RD to resist so Heine may have a point here. I think six months after this hypothetical split someone will just start making brifter/toggle adapters for them, down tube shifters suck. There is a balance to be struck between practicality and simplicity, brifters aren't a particularly complicated device but they change the bike completely. Yes I am currently hoarding old brifters why do you ask?
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Aug 2, 2022 19:50
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sweat poteto posted:And electric shifting is coming whether you want it or not
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Aug 2, 2022 20:12
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e.pilot posted:not if you like carbon wheels Carbon wheels can overheat if you drag the brakes on a long mountain descent, but the modern coated / textured brake tracks probably wear less than Alu rims.
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Aug 2, 2022 21:55
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I personally can’t wait until electronic shifting is not only universal, but leveraged to make shifting automatic so that I no longer have to hear or see “brifter”
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Aug 2, 2022 22:27
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I just brag about my STIs instead.
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Aug 2, 2022 22:56
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Imagine looking at the innumerable proprietary and obsolete standards among bike parts and going "but what if there were also electronics" 
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Aug 2, 2022 23:14
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Dog Case posted:Imagine looking at the innumerable proprietary and obsolete standards among bike parts and going "but what if there were also electronics" Counterpoint: 
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Aug 2, 2022 23:16
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Dog Case posted:Imagine looking at the innumerable proprietary and obsolete standards among bike parts and going "but what if there were also electronics"
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Aug 3, 2022 00:57
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Steve French posted:I personally can’t wait until electronic shifting is not only universal, but leveraged to make shifting automatic so that I no longer have to hear or see “brifter” I hate it too but I don't know of a different concise term :/
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Aug 3, 2022 05:23
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Slavvy posted:I hate it too but I don't know of a different concise term :/ shake
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Aug 3, 2022 07:45
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Is there a spoke tension app somewhere between Park Tool’s version that relies on specific URLs and gets deleted after a year and SpokeCalc’s €60/year price? I really just want somewhere I can plug in my wheel info and keep the data.
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Aug 8, 2022 19:03
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Spoke length? I've never heard of a tension app, except the ones that visualize the values with the goal of making them equal.
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Aug 9, 2022 03:55
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Great timing on the thread name change. I have a ST-6800 shifter that is missing a part. It is on one of my rental bikes. There is some scuffing on the outside of the main lever and body. I assume the last person to use the bike crashed it and did not tell me. Here is the Shimano diagram of the lever. https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/ev/ST-6800-3603/EV-ST-6800-3603.pdf I am missing part #3, left side. Shimano code no. Y63X80010. It seems to be out of stock everywhere. Yes I could buy a whole new lever or just the main assembly, but that seems like a waste. There was a complete left lever on ebay for $50 or so. The body is cracked but the part I need looks intact. Without this support, the shifting mech seems to catch on the carbon brake lever. Anyway, if anyone has better google skills than me and can dig up one of these parts, please let me know.
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Aug 9, 2022 04:13
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sweat poteto posted:Spoke length? I've never heard of a tension app, except the ones that visualize the values with the goal of making them equal. It would be nice to have each wheel saved with the hub model, what kind of spokes (diameter, bladed, etc), and the tension used saved somewhere. That way I don’t have to bust out the calipers to figure out if it’s a .95mm x 2.00mm bladed steel spoke. I could do all this in an excel doc or similar but just wondering if something already existed. SpokeCalc looks like it has all of this and a lot more, but seems to be geared toward professional wheel builder types.
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Aug 9, 2022 15:20
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I have a spreadsheet with all my bike setup changes and notes for like suspension and tire pressures. You could just do something like that with spoke length/info. And you can just print the dt swiss calulator results.
jamal fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Aug 9, 2022 |
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Aug 9, 2022 16:28
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Yeah use Google sheets and you can access it from anywhere.
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Aug 9, 2022 17:03
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I'm switching back to brifters from bar end shifters on my rainy-day commuting bike, what's the best way to clean/condition the old hoods to keep them going as long as possible? I'll be putting on a pair of 9-speed 5500/6500 levers and hoods were next to nonexistent when I wanted to replace a peeling set a couple years ago. I got really lucky and found a replacement pair in the dusty new-old stock section of a LBS but at this point that's probably gonna be it.
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Aug 11, 2022 01:41
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My 4iii NDS crank PM battery contact snapped off. I soldered it back in place and it seems to be working fine now, but I got a bit of the plastic shell melted in the process and it’s not going to be watertight now. This is my cross bike so it’s subject to awful conditions. I’ve got some heat shrink tubing that I was thinking of putting over the crank arm and PM with overhang. This would be easy enough to cut off when the battery dies but should keep it pretty water tight, perhaps with some dielectric grease to help plug any gaps first. Any other ideas that might work better?
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Aug 11, 2022 14:20
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:My 4iii NDS crank PM battery contact snapped off. I soldered it back in place and it seems to be working fine now, but I got a bit of the plastic shell melted in the process and it’s not going to be watertight now. This is my cross bike so it’s subject to awful conditions. What works is going to depend on how big the hole is and its location, but a couple of other things you can try are cutting off a section of old inner tube and stretching it over the whole thing or getting some silicone and dabbing a bit of that on the hole.
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Aug 11, 2022 14:36
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Weembles posted:What works is going to depend on how big the hole is and its location, but a couple of other things you can try are cutting off a section of old inner tube and stretching it over the whole thing or getting some silicone and dabbing a bit of that on the hole. Is there a benefit to an inner tube over heat shrink tubing? I figure the tubing would produce a tighter seal when it gets shrunk down to fit.
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Aug 11, 2022 14:40
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Is there a benefit to an inner tube over heat shrink tubing? I figure the tubing would produce a tighter seal when it gets shrunk down to fit. I haven't played with heat shrink enough to know which one is best. I just threw it out because old tubes are something that people have lying around for free.
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Aug 11, 2022 17:20
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Heat shunk tubing becomes less flexible, it might not keep a tight enough seal compared to tight rubber tube + some sealant. I've only used very small hs tubing for dynamo wiring though, maybe there are other types.
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Aug 11, 2022 19:47
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I'm stumped. I bought a Skyway Tuff II 16" to replace the coaster brake wheels on my kid's bike (https://a.co/d/aH3e8QO). The hub should accept a threaded freewheel, but I've tried a Shimano SF-MX30 and an ACS PAWS 4.1, both of which will start to bind after 1 or so turns. I've even returned and ordered a new set of skyways, but same thing with not threading on correctly. I can't find much detail on what thread standard these wheels should accept (I just assumed ISO), but I saw one review that said an mx30 was used nicely. Did I just get an unlucky string of bad wheels?
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Aug 12, 2022 17:43
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There is heat shrink tubing with waterproof adhesive built in, that stuff should work great.
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Aug 12, 2022 20:07
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taqueso posted:There is heat shrink tubing with waterproof adhesive built in, that stuff should work great. How easily does the adhesive come off when it's time to change the battery?
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Aug 12, 2022 22:06
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It's tenacious stuff and not easy to remove. I didn't realize it needed to come off regularly.
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Aug 12, 2022 23:43
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I have new tubeless tires (Gravelking SS+), but no compressor (however I can access one near my work). I'll be using orange seal. What's the instructions here, and can I do it with just the floor pump?
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Aug 13, 2022 13:11
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iospace posted:I have new tubeless tires (Gravelking SS+), but no compressor (however I can access one near my work). I'll be using orange seal. What's the instructions here, and can I do it with just the floor pump? You can try it. Seat the tire with an innertube, unseat the bead on one side and take the tube out, put the valve in, then pump as hard as you can to try to reseat the bead. Take the valve core out and put sealant in through the valve once the tire is seated successfully e: actually, taking the valve core out before you pump can get you more airflow
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Aug 13, 2022 13:32
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If that doesn't work, just add more layers of tubeless tape.
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Aug 13, 2022 16:33
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Clark Nova posted:You can try it. Seat the tire with an innertube, unseat the bead on one side and take the tube out, put the valve in, then pump as hard as you can to try to reseat the bead. Take the valve core out and put sealant in through the valve once the tire is seated successfully Sometimes you don’t even have to do that. It just depends on the tire/wheel interface. I’ve had pretty good luck with mounting a tire and then hammering a floor pump to get the bead set with no sealant, then adding it through the valve core after. You just have to be ready to vigorously pump.
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Aug 13, 2022 17:01
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