|
I am planning to tile the floor in my entryway/hallway area. I would like for it to be a continuous floor, but the subfloor in the entryway is 1/8th inch lower than the subway in the hallway because of course it is. To me the easiest way to fix it seems to be using slightly different backerboard widths but it doesn't seem like a 3/8th width exists (or if it does, it ain't available anywhere currently). Would throwing down a sheet of 1/8th thick plywood on the lower side under the cement board be stupid? Or am I doomed to attempt self leveling and fail miserably at it?
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2022 14:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 9, 2024 22:57 |
|
|
Bob Shadycharacter posted:I am planning to tile the floor in my entryway/hallway area. I would like for it to be a continuous floor, but the subfloor in the entryway is 1/8th inch lower than the subway in the hallway because of course it is. Can you post a sketch of the area and the tile pattern you're looking to do in it? Also what's your tile size? AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Aug 11, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2022 15:17
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:Can you post a sketch of the area and the tile pattern you're looking to do in it? Also what's your tile size? I can try! Imgur seems to hate me but will give it a go:  The tiles are those 6x24 wood look porcelain- I used similar in the half bath. Obviously if I level the entry part with the hallway, the entry will then be slightly higher than the 1/2 bath but eh. This is more visible because the door to the hallway is just an open door, no actual door. Imgur why. Here is the link, I...guess? https://imgur.com/a/BfmhWF8
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2022 15:28
|
|
|
Bob Shadycharacter posted:I can try! Imgur seems to hate me but will give it a go: Ok you're not bad at all. Don't gently caress with the self leveling. Flash out about 2' or so with a floor patch. I haven't used this stuff, but it's similar to something that I do use: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-549-7-lbs-Feather-Finish-Patch-and-Skimcoat-12163/100551687 You could probably do this with just some extra thinset too. It's not that deep at all. basically you're going to make a small ramp down to the lower floor. I'd also recommend having a joint above that transition point, and caulk it in (They will sell sanded caulk the same color as your grout). That will let it flex a bit. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Aug 11, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2022 15:53
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:Ok you're not bad at all. That seems very doable! Much easier than self leveling anyway. And thanks! I really enjoy tiling actually, maybe in another life I was a tile setter. Here's the 1/2 bath, I am quite proud of it and show it off to every contractor that comes by to give me a quote on whatever: https://imgur.com/a/WwimpON Gearing up to re-do the full bath soon too.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2022 16:17
|
|
|
Resolved my downspout post I posted a month ago. Just a stupid little fence post in my yard, I also had to dull 2 reciprocal saw blades cutting out roots to dig it in 2 feet. Forgot to buy the terminating downspout but it works (I think).
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 02:54
|
|
|
Well, at least you have a great place to plant a hop vine or some other similarly thirsty climbing plant.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 03:04
|
|
|
epswing posted:The left rail of the top rack of my dishwasher fell off. I've had this exact same thing happen twice to my dishwasher. Is yours a Kitchenaid? Mine is model # KDTM604KPS. I've ordered replacement parts here before: https://www.kitchenaidparts.com/PartDetail/Support-Rails/W11259785/4813885 No idea if it's the cheapest or not, but they work fine. It's not too hard to replace, but you have to pull the dishwasher out to do it if the sides are blocked.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 03:17
|
|
|
Does anyone know what this is for? It's under the kitchen sink in my house in Denmark that was built in 1955. The original cabinets are next to the sink, so there was never any dishwasher or refrigerator connected to it. Maybe a garbage disposal at some point, but those are extremely rare here, and there wasn't one when when we bought the house, so I'm thinking probably not. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 11:33
|
|
|
Looks like an electric switch of some sort. Probably operates the garage light or something.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 11:55
|
|
|
Does a cartridge of some kind plug in below the switch? A battery recharger? I am made of questions.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 13:31
|
|
|
If you take it off is there a manufacturer name on the back of the plate?
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 15:59
|
|
|
It definitely looks to me like something's supposed to plug into that slot below. So my guess is some kind of switched appliance. But I also suspect that it's a manufacturer-custom form factor, so yeah, I'd look for a nameplate or mark or something to indicate what it's from.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 16:12
|
|
|
I will try to take the plate off next chance I get. Whatever might have been plugged into it at some point was gone by the time we bought the house.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 17:33
|
|
|
From the location, it sounds like a maintenance switch for an electric appliance. It’s a code requirement in some areas that you have a switch that cuts power to the stove/dishwasher/whatever for when you gotta do work on it
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 19:38
|
|
|
On an aside, I was talking w a fence guy who said he would do 4x6 posts instead of 4x4 for $15 more/post. Increased strength & longevity. What I didn’t get to ask was which way he oriented it. From which axis do fences experience the most load, side-to-side or front-to-back?
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 19:40
|
|
|
In and out (perpendicular to the fence line) I would think?
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 19:54
|
|
|
A few years ago after buying our house we noticed a small hole about 40 ft from our septic opening in our yard (about 15 feet from house). We filled it and thought nothing of it. A few days ago, a kid lost his shoe in a new hole 3 feet futher from the original hole running parallel to the house. I didn't find a lot of great info via Google & Youtube other than 'potentially huge problem with drainage field', so I started digging with a shovel. The void was about 1 foot below surface, about 6 inches tall and maybe 1.5 foot diameter. My soil is very sandy, so I kept on digging. After about 2 more feet of digging (3.5 feet down) I hit concrete. There's a concrete "something" that's at least 1ft x 1ft x 1ft. Then I dug in original 'pit' and after about 1 ft I hit large-ish rocks, so I stopped bothering to dig further. Here's a picture of the holes together and specifically of the concrete "something". https://imgur.com/8cp3pme https://imgur.com/SW9rZxz I'm fairly confused now. The house (and likely septic) is around 50 years old, so could there be concrete "pipes" for the drain field? Do I keep digging? Do I just cover it up with some rocks mixed with the original dirt to avoid the problem for a few more years? I'd like to avoid calling septic people who would sell me on them replacing my entire drainage field Further context I can give is that it hasn't rained much where I live, but I did do like 10 loads of laundry in the last 4 days and it's been about 3 years since septic has been pumped. Thanks in advance for any insights. I only post every few years and am quite confused on this one.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 20:40
|
|
|
So you know where the septic box is? The 2 chamber thing that gets pumped? I'm assuming so from your post. So you're sure it's not that. Are you positive where you drain field is? Because if this is right near the start of it this is likely your d-box (distribution box), which has one pipe in from the "clean" side of your septic box and then a bunch of outlets to each of the runners for your septic field. Could be clogged, the pipe to it from the septic box could be clogged, the field could be clogged...... Step 1 is probably getting is exposed more so you can take the led off and see what's happening in there.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 21:06
|
|
|
I am fairly certain this is my drain field. I have a map of the where the two septic 'caps' are and I'm digging those out right now to put on risers. Going further away from my house we there's about 15 feet and then a 15 foot hill/dropoff. The holes are about 40 feet away and the tiny map suggests that my septic tanks end after about 10 feet. That being said, I'll keep digging around the concrete thing while digging up the caps.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 21:14
|
|
|
That sure sounds like a d-box to me. Good luck. The good news is that even if the field is clogged you can get it jetted out through the d-box. Hopefully it's something much simpler like the tank to d box run being clogged. Your regular septic pumping people can probably take care of that for you.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 21:17
|
|
|
How long does paint last in the can if you've never opened it? SW is going to be having a 40% off sale and I know there is a bunch of painting I'm going to need/want to do and would like to just get a bunch of cans and tint them later when I have time. I'm assuming at least a year if not longer as long as they stay unopened?
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 21:43
|
|
|
our garage is rather old so a lot of the framing is in need of repairs like sistering. the structure was originally built 24" o.c. with windows that've been boarded over since, but i was thinking of adding glass block windows in the future.  right now i'd like to start by strengthen that portion, in particular, because i want to anchor a hammock off the header on the exterior side of this wall. is my thinking right abouts how it should be done (pardon my color coding)?  ofc i'm also going to reroute the electrical because it should run across the top wall plate, as opposed to in the middle of the studs as well stone soup fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Aug 14, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 22:08
|
|
|
stone soup posted:however right now i'd like to start by strengthen this portion, in particular, because i want to anchor a hammock off the header on the exterior side of this wall: Why do you think that needs to be "strengthened"? stone soup posted:is this abouts how it should be done? That's how you make it carry more load in compression. It has nothing to do with hammocks pulling walls inward. stone soup posted:ofc i'm also going to reroute the electrical because it should run across the top wall plate, as opposed to in the middle of the studs as well What are you even talking about here? As far as your photos show that electrical is fine. It should have nailer plates installed where wires have been run through studs but if and only if the wall is covered/finished.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 22:14
|
|
|
Teabag Dome Scandal posted:How long does paint last in the can if you've never opened it? SW is going to be having a 40% off sale and I know there is a bunch of painting I'm going to need/want to do and would like to just get a bunch of cans and tint them later when I have time. I'm assuming at least a year if not longer as long as they stay unopened? Manufacturer shelf life is usually 3 years on latex paints. Less if you store it in a hot and humid garage/shed. Probably last you 4-5+ years if stored in a well climate controlled area.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 22:46
|
|
|
How does a whole house humidifier system work during the summer months when you are running an air conditioner?
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 22:48
|
|
|
cr0y posted:How does a whole house humidifier system work during the summer months when you are running an air conditioner? In my climate it just remains off. In fact, one would switch it off on purpose just in case something dumb happened like your AC ran forever because you had the windows opened all day long and it's 95 in your house so it drug the humidity down enough for it to run.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 23:27
|
|
|
Final Blog Entry posted:Manufacturer shelf life is usually 3 years on latex paints. Less if you store it in a hot and humid garage/shed. Probably last you 4-5+ years if stored in a well climate controlled area. thank you!
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 23:34
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Why do you think that needs to be "strengthened"? you're right and i'm conflating a bunch of different concepts here so thanks for bearing with me. there's a number of wall-studs in this garage that are out of level and/or splitting from where they were nailed into. for example, the pre-edit picture i posted shows the left king-stud separating from the window header. i want to fix and modernize this framing so i'm hoping that my drawing reflects what i need to do. the reason i want to re-route the electrical along the upper wall plate is bc our home inspector said it doing so would mean its less likely some dummy will hang something from those vulnerable wires in the future.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2022 23:45
|
|
|
I'm left not sure at all with what you're trying to accomplish other than hanging a hammock. The rest of this is not a goal, it's a bunch of tasks that could be in service of some goal that it's not clear is necessary or realistic. Why are you trying to "fix" a bunch of studs? If it's that screwed it's probably not a piecemeal job but a full demo and build something else or an engineered solution. Otherwise it's still standing so stop messing with it. Basically what you're asking is like a vignette into a bunch of other things that nobody can give you real advice about without understanding the entirety of the problem space. It also sounds like you've been given some bad advice.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2022 00:03
|
|
|
the window drawing was good? ok thanks
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2022 01:21
|
|
|
Trying to repair this lighter and I can't tell if it's missing a piece or I just don't get it. When you click down the lever it makes a small arc from that wire, but the spot where you fill the butane doesn't seem to have any kind of mechanism to release it. The nozzle doesn't move at all, and even if it did the lever doesn't touch anything over there. Anyone familiar with anything like it, or know a thread I can try  
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2022 02:18
|
|
|
My guess would be that there is a forked lever missing. The forked end would pass on either side of the butane tube at that recess just above the top of the tank & extend back, possibly bent at an angle, and terminate under the cam ahead of the hinge on the trigger so that when you push down, it levers up the butane tube to release gas just before the trigger sets off the piezo to spark the top of the tube. There’s a boss at the right spot to have held a pin as the fulcrum point for the lever. Appears that the pin has snapped off at some point. The lever would then fall free into the voids. It either fell out when you (or a prior owner) opened it, or fell out through the trigger slot. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Aug 15, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2022 02:30
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:My guess would be that there is a forked lever missing. The forked end would pass on either side of the butane tube at that recess just above the top of the tank & extend back, possibly bent at an angle, and terminate under the cam ahead of the hinge on the trigger so that when you push down, it levers up the butane tube to release gas just before the trigger sets off the piezo to spark the top of the tube. That’s what I assumed, but that nozzle doesn’t budge at all if I push or pull on it. Maybe I’ll shoot a little wd-40 on it and see if that does anything
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2022 02:42
|
|
|
Try a small pair of needle nose pliers to move the nozzle up and see if that works. Also the nozzle could be seized, which made the lever that moves it break off.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2022 03:05
|
|
|
Aha, ok got it moving. Should be easy enough to fabricate a new lever and see if that works, thanks
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2022 03:06
|
|
|
So I have a wall with coax wall plates on opposite sides:  Currently both coax cables go up into the attic, but since I'm not using them at all I wanted to convert it to two ethernet ports that connect to each other. Getting the ethernet ports and wall plates is fine, but I had a question about the boxes, or lack thereof: 1) How important is it to replace the drywall hole with a low-voltage bracket? For now I just have one port so the existing hole works fine, but I suppose if I want two ports I'd have to do some drywall cutting, and in that case I may as well cut out enough for the low-voltage bracket, right? 2) The blue box looks like a new-work high-voltage bracket (in the gap at the top, I see what I think is the nail going into the stud on the left). Is it fine to leave it as-is even though it's carrying low-voltage stuff, or should I replace it with a low-voltage bracket, too?
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2022 05:43
|
|
|
You can do whatever. The brackets will make it easy for you to install keystones. Which is what you want to do right?  Seriously though for cat5/6/whatever there are no rules only things that make future troubleshooting easier or the installation look cleaner.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2022 06:33
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Yes. That is a flow restrictor, doing its job. So I went ahead and drilled out the coupler gasket piece. It had no effect. The water is kind of just falling out of the shower head with no real pressure. I’m not sure where to go from here.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2022 11:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 9, 2024 22:57 |
|
|
I've got some surplus equipment that I want to wire up with an IEC C14 receptacle. This box is about 4"x2". The C14 receptacle is easy enough to find on Amazon, but what plate do I need to a) match up with the old work box-like box and b) accept the side screw mount on the C14 receptacle? 
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2022 00:03
|
|
