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I do use it, would not using it for a while possibly unlock it? It did start not releasing all the way a little bit ago but that stopped the past few times I drove it, I'd just slap it up the rest of the way and the brake light would turn off.
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Aug 16, 2022 02:11
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So any one part of the ebrake locking up can cause issues. On most cars it's like the brakes on a bicycle. Steel cable pull style. Once any chunk is rusty enough you can overcome the rustyness in applying it but it won't release. Generally if you use it all the time its fine but hitting it after years of non use causes an instant cluster gently caress. Either way once it gets jammed up in the ebrake applied state it makes the brakes drag until they wear down or it releases. You can force it to release by pulling off the drum and manually adjusting it. That's a pain. It's normally the cables that cause the problem but not always. Most mechanics wind up with a don't touch the ebrake in any car that isn't yours burned into their soul after a bad experience or two.
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Aug 16, 2022 02:52
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ebrake (total misnomer btw) is part of safety inspections in Europe, so you can't really get away with never using it
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Aug 16, 2022 05:59
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that's why it's called a parking brake anyway, yeah check to see how much slack is on the cables, comparing side-to-side, or look at the lever position or whatever. if the brake is partially on, it's going to be a bad time trying to get the drum off to see whats going on in there, so hopefully it's something easy to diagnose from the outside 
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Aug 16, 2022 06:01
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A stuck brake can also come from a brake hose that is degrading on the inside. The inner lining can fail and turn into something like a one-way check valve. If you have one of those infrared thermometers, start with that. Check the temperature of the stuck wheel and compare it to the wheel on the other side. Compare them to the fronts. The front wheels should be warmer.
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Aug 16, 2022 15:21
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Motronic posted:You need a code reader that can show live data. You should be looking for open/closed loop, long and short term fuel trims, etc. Hell yes good ideas. I forgot I can do those things.
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Aug 16, 2022 16:34
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VelociBacon posted:Sorry what's the car again? From your *vagina it's not clear if the brake booster ever got hooked up. If there's a big unmetered air 'leak' it's a waste of time trying to figure anything out until that's taken care of. LOL! 2006 Xterra. V6. Brake booster did get hooked up, it didn't solve all issues.
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Aug 16, 2022 16:35
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I've been trying to figure out what's been causing my Forester XT to lose copious amounts of oil. On the first occasion that I noticed this, the oil pressure warning light lit up intermittently and I found the dipstick bone dry and that it needed about 2.5 qts to fill back up. This was roughly 2 months after my last check of the dipstick so I wasn't sure what my rate of loss was and if it was considered normal. I didn't notice any oil dripping onto the ground so I had assumed that I may have been burning it. Then having driven 70 miles over the span of 3 days and confirming the dipstick was reading full, I found I lost another quart or two over the span of two days and 110 miles of driving where it went below the low mark on the dipstick. This time I did eventually see that I was dripping oil and closer inspection of the engine revealed oil pooling all on top of the engine block.  I was told it could be coming from the oil pressure switch which is near the pooling and would explain the oil warning light lighting up. I have a new switch on order but closer inspection of the switch has me doubting whether the oil is coming from the leaking switch as the oil splash pattern isn't what I was expecting if oil was leaking from the switch.   It strikes me as odd how the switch itself and the boss that it's threaded into seems to be dry. In fact, it's weird how some things are drenched in oil but others are clean. Even more weird is that the timing belt cover isn't covered in oil despite being so close to the pressure switch unless air flow from driving had some effect on where the oil went.  Maybe there is a small leak on the far side of the switch that I can't see but it's hard to imagine how that could have resulted in this splash pattern. I'm having some doubts that the oil may not be coming from the pressure switch but what else could it be? Edward IV fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Aug 16, 2022 |
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Aug 16, 2022 19:13
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PBCrunch posted:A stuck brake can also come from a brake hose that is degrading on the inside. The inner lining can fail and turn into something like a one-way check valve. Could it also be a wheel bearing?
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Aug 16, 2022 20:11
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Edward IV posted:I've been trying to figure out what's been causing my Forester XT to lose copious amounts of oil. On the first occasion that I noticed this, the oil pressure warning light lit up intermittently and I found the dipstick bone dry and that it needed about 2.5 qts to fill back up. This was roughly 2 months after my last check of the dipstick so I wasn't sure what my rate of loss was and if it was considered normal. I didn't notice any oil dripping onto the ground so I had assumed that I may have been burning it. Then having driven 70 miles over the span of 3 days and confirming the dipstick was reading full, I found I lost another quart or two over the span of two days and 110 miles of driving where it went below the low mark on the dipstick. This time I did eventually see that I was dripping oil and closer inspection of the engine revealed oil pooling all on top of the engine block. It looks to me like you have a very healthy leak from where the switch threads into the block. You need to clean all of the wet oil &crud off of the area with a wire brush & cleaner (carb cleaner, awesome orange degreaser, etc) and then run the engine & just watch that boss. Typically, the leak is at the highest point on the block, barring a slight amount of capillary creep for a long-term issue. Leaks at the oil pressure sender boss can be copious due to the high pressures being pushed into the sensor.
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Aug 17, 2022 01:47
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PainterofCrap posted:It looks to me like you have a very healthy leak from where the switch threads into the block. You need to clean all of the wet oil &crud off of the area with a wire brush & cleaner (carb cleaner, awesome orange degreaser, etc) and then run the engine & just watch that boss. OK thanks. Sounds good as long as I'm not missing any other possible issues. I just got over having to replace the alternator on the side of the road a month and a half ago so I'm a little weary of more poo poo breaking and so soon after but I guess it's to be expected with 230k miles. I'm just really nervous when it gets to a point where the cost and effort for repairs become too much for me to deal with between having this as my only car and living in an apartment where doing certain types of car work isn't feasible. Work does have a service shop for ambulances and emergency support vehicles which I can lean on but that only works if I can limp the car the 25 miles to get there. Probably should start looking at EVs as a dependable commuter now that the new tax credits are a go. I've also considered putting my name down on a waiting list for the GR Corolla and flip the Forester on Cars & Bids. Also, what is the best way to go about cleaning the block because there is oil loving everywhere and some pretty tight looking places. I almost didn't notice the puddle on top of the engine but I knew oil was leaking out somewhere.  Also I imagine all those cleaners and oil is not something that should be going down the storm drain so I guess I should look into how to collect all that crap after washing it off. May have to do this at the shop at work. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Aug 17, 2022 |
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Aug 17, 2022 02:29
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Self service car wash with the engine degreaser selection (same as the tire/wheel cleaner usually; a lot have covered up or removed the engine cleaner portion of the sticker), hose down that area, then rinse with the high pressure spray. That area is high enough that I can't imagine it being valve cover gaskets or head gaskets (Subarus will sometimes leak oil and/or coolant externally from the head gaskets). If the switch is leaking, it's almost certainly a dribble - oil makes a huge mess with a shockingly small amount of leak. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Aug 17, 2022 |
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Aug 17, 2022 02:38
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You don't have to get it all off - just around the sensor & boss, maybe an inch / 2cm or so around it, so you can see if it's in fact the source. If it is, you could try tightening it down; it may just be loose.
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Aug 17, 2022 03:06
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honda whisperer posted:So any one part of the ebrake locking up can cause issues. On most cars it's like the brakes on a bicycle. Steel cable pull style. Once any chunk is rusty enough you can overcome the rustyness in applying it but it won't release. I ended up getting up the courage to pull off the drum and the surface of the shoes is smooth except for the bottom portion of the rear shoe, which seems to be the part that gets engaged with the parking brake. So that supports the idea of the e-brake being stuck. Also, the e-brake pedal doesn't return quite all the way, you can flop it upwards at almost no resistance a couple extra inches. How do I get the brake loose since I have the drum off already? It's a '92 Chevy K1500 so I might cross-post in the Generally Mediocre Trucks thread. It started doing this when I parked after towing a heavy trailer, is it possible that the brakes were warm enough even with the help from the trailer brakes that putting the parking brake on immediately after parking got them stuck? I remember hearing someone in here say they messed up the brakes on their track car by putting the parking brake on immediately after a long track session, but I'm not sure how the brake load of a trailer with electronic brakes compares vs hard driving on a track, seems like apples and oranges.
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Aug 17, 2022 22:00
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Since the pedal isn't coming up all the way, it's almost guaranteed to be a frayed cable binding up. Now the fun part is figuring out if it's one of the ones going to a wheel, or the main one from the pedal to whatever it uses to connect that to the others (usually some kind of bracket). Hopefully it's just one of the ones going to a wheel, it's kind of a pain to replace the one going to the pedal on most vehicles. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Aug 18, 2022 |
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Aug 18, 2022 01:37
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Maybe? It was doing the same thing after I messed up doing the other rear brake before I just took it to the shop. At least this truck is tall enough that I can get under it without jacking it up, that's a nice bonus of working on a truck that I'm not used to. I can get under my Impreza enough to do an oil change without jacking it up but that's it. E: fixed it, the parking brake line had enough slack (maybe a little too much?) so I backed off the pre-adjustment until with the parking brake on there was a little friction and with it off there was none. Went for a ~8 mile test drive including some highway driving and some hard braking on back roads and the wheel is cool to the touch when it used to be warm after about 5 miles. Also found an empty parking lot and backed up and braked a few times to give the adjustment a chance to get just right. I'm going to carry a jack, stands, wrench, crowbar, and pliers for a while in case it gets bad again I can find an O'Reilly's parking lot or something to fix it. Also if anyone is looking for coveralls and is willing to pay a premium the Truewerk coveralls are fantastic, I had some bought for me and they allow full easy motion, are very comfortable, and keep me clean. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Aug 18, 2022 |
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Aug 18, 2022 02:55
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I'm interested in picking up a project car in the future, two years into the future perhaps when I got a space completed for working on a car. Basically I'm after some kind of late 80s asian pickup, take it apart and work on it from the ground up starting with the frame, which seems to be the weak point in 80s asians, at least the Toyotas, not sure about the Mazdas, Nissans or Isuzus. 4x4 isn't required and neither is a big powerful engine. A petrol engine though is best, most pickups here seem to be diesels, but a diesel is a worse candiate for what I want to do with the car which is to convert it to a hybrid that can run biogas (and petrol). We have a decent biogas network already here made from the regions household waste (public company and recycling is mandatory) and the fuel is about half the price per liter in addition to being carbon neutral so I think that could be a decent alternative to going EV and avoiding having a car that's so modern I can't do jack poo poo to it myself. If I never see the inside of a dealership in my life again it'll be too soon. The Toyota hilux looks the most interesting, but even non road worthy rust buckets are expensive so we'll have to see. The hilux certainly seems desireable. So just how much pain and suffering and potential failure do you think I am setting myself up for? What kind of pitfalls are there to these trucks, spares availability, the rust problems of the box frames (also seem to lack drainage holes in places). I'm imagening this will be a multi year project and I won't need the car to be ready for action as I already have a reliable daily driver.
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Aug 18, 2022 07:01
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You're in Norway or something right? It might be worth going to a warm and dry place, like Spain or something, to find one with an intact frame and hopefully not too beaten up body. On the flip side southern cars are usually less well maintained so you could find a rust bucket up north with better maintenance and put in the running gear from that. HiLux' have the reputation for being indestructible but engine wise I think that's mostly the diesels?
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Aug 18, 2022 07:11
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Almost, Finland. Hauling my rear end to spain is extremely unlikely though. Maybe Sweden since cars there are overall cheaper, but we still gotta pay tax on them when bringing them home.
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Aug 18, 2022 08:06
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His Divine Shadow posted:Almost, Finland. Hauling my rear end to spain is extremely unlikely though. Maybe Sweden since cars there are overall cheaper, but we still gotta pay tax on them when bringing them home. Yes of course, you need to factor in that price. Transportation too of course. I'm just saying that you're unlikely to find a non-rotted out example living in the frozen north where roads are a salty slushy mess half the year. If you can't find anything in Scandinavia or the Baltic, might want to look further south. All I'm saying. That being said I wish you the best of luck with your my summer car cosplay and I look forward to the thread.
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Aug 18, 2022 08:13
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Well that's true, salt fucks up vehicles, but also people up here tend to be quite fastidious with rust prevention, undercoating and cavity treatments and such, so it might be possible to get an example that's not completely gone. I do see a lot of 80s and 90s pickups rolling around still. A road worthy hilux seems to be 1800 - 2500 euros at the cheapest though. Still, fully expected to be welding the frame and replacing parts with new steel. edit: Here's an example of what looks to be an excellent price / conditrion car based on local prices. 3500€ for an L200 from -87 https://www.nettiauto.com/en/mitsubishi/l200/13061893 Also found a junker hilux for 450€ though, but it's not even driveable, I would like to be able to drive the thing home. Honestly I had a look around in german mobile.de and prices seemed to be even higher over there, I think 80s cars might be of that age now where they are getting attractive, a late 90s car is probably at it's nadir price wise. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 09:39 on Aug 18, 2022 |
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Aug 18, 2022 09:09
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New pressure switch arrived so I finally dug in and took out the alternator to get better access to the switch and I feel reasonably assured that the oil is leaking out from the switch and was indeed leaking out on the back side like I had assumed. However, I ran into a problem.  The only 24mm socket I have isn't deep enough. I was able to get the old switch out by only having just enough of the breaker bar inserted into the socket and enough of the socket inserted into the switch to eventually work it free enough to hand release it. By my observation, the boss appears to be fine.  I have the new switch hand installed in the boss and the alternator partly reinstalled since this is as far as I can go. Obviously I can't use that janky technique for installing the new switch so I'm going to need a deep 24mm socket. Problem is that I now no longer have a functional car. I do have an e-bike that I can reasonably take to the local Lowes and Home Depot with a somewhat low chance of being murdered by traffic. My question is are there any other deep metric sockets I'll need for this car where a socket set may make more sense or should I just get the individual socket?
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Aug 18, 2022 21:17
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Honestly if you have the room, I'd just send it home with some channel locks or an adjustable wrench. It's not like it needs tons of torque. And you could probably drive it to the store hand tight, I'd be surprised if it leaks more than it was already.
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Aug 18, 2022 21:39
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I've got a 95 GMC 1500 with a 4.3 v6, auto transmission. It's low mileage (just hit 100,000 miles), and has been good for the 5 years I've owned it. Just this year I got a random weird issue come up once in awhile. The first two times it happened it was at very low speed, like just coming from a stop sign. The engine almost stalled, the airbag light came on, and the anti-lock brakes light started flashing, and when I put the brakes on the anti-locks were engaging. It stalled a couple of times, but if I brought the revs up the engine would stay running, and the dash lights would eventually go away, and it seemed to drive fine after. The first time it happened I got an engine code as well "Code 54 Fuel pump circuit (Low voltage)". In any case that was a couple months ago, then randomly driving on the highway today the engine felt like it was going to stall again and I got an airbag light again. I took it out of overdrive, and just drove in 3rd keeping the revs a bit higher, and it was fine. I'm assuming it's something electrical. I tested the alternator and battery with a voltmeter and it seems to be fine. Battery sits at 12.6v, running it's at 14 something. The alternator draw with everything running is -0.03 which seems quite low.... Any ideas on what to check? Could the battery and/or alternator be faulty and still give good numbers? Edit: I actually replaced the alternator about 18 months ago with this https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3377799&pt=2412&jsn=1 Not sure if it's a good brand or not... Kashwashwa fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Aug 18, 2022 |
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Aug 18, 2022 23:04
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Between age and symptoms I would suspect bad battery cables and/or grounds. Computer controls for anything in the car - ABS, airbag, transmission, all of it - will behave badly when they're getting enough voltage to run but not enough to run properly.
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Aug 18, 2022 23:44
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Maybe? It was doing the same thing after I messed up doing the other rear brake before I just took it to the shop. That's awesome. The problem is at least narrowed down quite a lot. Usually a siezed cable makes getting the drum off a total nightmare. Have you used the parking brake since? The problem will normally pop right back up if you do. Options would be quit using the parking brake or the other is replace the cables. It's kind of a pain and there will probably be some broken bolts. It's a fairly simple system so you don't necessarily have to get any snapped bolts out but will want to put some kind of support near where they broke. P clips or zip ties would be fine. Just need the cables to not drag or rub anything they shouldn't. Functional vs restoration math on that one.
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Aug 19, 2022 00:57
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Edward IV posted:New pressure switch arrived so I finally dug in and took out the alternator to get better access to the switch and I feel reasonably assured that the oil is leaking out from the switch and was indeed leaking out on the back side like I had assumed. I can't think of any. 99% of a Subaru of that era can be done with 6 point: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm all in shallow and deep. Some jobs need a box wench and/or Phillips or torx. I think there are like 3 things that need larger than a 17, off the top of my head the 24mm crank bolt, 32 or 34mm axle nuts (can't remember which, probably 32) and maybe a rear pinion nut is big too? But none need a deep socket. Edit: oh, use a razor scraper to clean the mating surfaces of the ears and brackets for that alternator. I seem to recall you're in NJ and that means enough corrosion that you may have issues getting it to ground on the block brackets after putting it back in. I chased bad battery and starter symptoms for WEEKS at one point because it made it far enough regularly that I didn't think it was the alternator, but wasn't failing bad enough to trigger the dummy lamp. When I finally dug in with a multimeter I measured 2 volts between the alternator frame (supposed to be grounded to the block via those big pinch bolts) and the bracket it was bolted to. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Aug 19, 2022 01:44
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honda whisperer posted:That's awesome. The problem is at least narrowed down quite a lot. Usually a siezed cable makes getting the drum off a total nightmare. Have you used the parking brake since? The problem will normally pop right back up if you do. I did but it hasn't seemed to heat up again yet. I'll be keeping tools in my truck just in case. I probably do need to replace / get the cable replaced, the adjustment nut on the cable is rusted solid. I prefer not to do any underbody work on this car anymore.
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Aug 19, 2022 05:41
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Could a car with four independently-controlled wheel motors steer normally through manipulation of relative wheel speed alone (spin the outer wheels a little faster than the inner wheels, possibly increase the delta more in the front than in the back)? I'm thinking the answer is yes, but tire wear might be an issue?
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Aug 19, 2022 15:42
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PBCrunch posted:Could a car with four independently-controlled wheel motors steer normally through manipulation of relative wheel speed alone (spin the outer wheels a little faster than the inner wheels, possibly increase the delta more in the front than in the back)? 
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Aug 19, 2022 15:48
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I'm going to do a spray in bedliner this weekend. Looking for tips! Here's what I got so far, use wire tape for a clean edge, mask like crazy, and remove all the hardware I can. Including the cover plate in my tailgate for access to the latch, and I'll spray that cover plate in position but raised up so the texture matches. I also have a huge roll of plastic that I'm going to use to drape the cab completely. Tailgate is coming off too and I'll spray it on a saw horse. I have a long work platform so I can get my body up over the sides to spray. I feel like I've got it under control, however I'm sure some of yall have done this and learned something the hard way.
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Aug 19, 2022 16:05
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PPE? I did the roll on but if I did it again I'd probably wear a tyvec suit with how hard it was to get the poo poo off my skin. I'll be interested to see how it turns out, what are you using?
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Aug 19, 2022 16:18
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PBCrunch posted:Could a car with four independently-controlled wheel motors steer normally through manipulation of relative wheel speed alone (spin the outer wheels a little faster than the inner wheels, possibly increase the delta more in the front than in the back)? Skid steers do this
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Aug 19, 2022 16:26
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SpeedFreek posted:PPE? I did the roll on but if I did it again I'd probably wear a tyvec suit with how hard it was to get the poo poo off my skin. I would agree with this. Nobody wants to get Herculiner on their hootus.
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Aug 19, 2022 16:49
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SpeedFreek posted:PPE? I did the roll on but if I did it again I'd probably wear a tyvec suit with how hard it was to get the poo poo off my skin. Yeah good call, I have a coupe of fresh Tyvek suits so I'll don one. I'll also wear a full face respirator and welding cap to cover my hair. I'm using UPOL Raptor in black. I previously used their tintable product on the flatbed, which my only issue there was not having enough. I'm certain I have too much now. A pickup bed is a little different than the flatbed though, I'll have to do vertical surfaces and have hardware to contend with. One open question I have is that I'll be pulling the panel for the tailgate hardware, and spraying it and under it, I hope it seals up well enough when I put it back on. It will go from a flat surface to a bumpy one. Perhaps I'll add some automotive caulking that I have on hand when I reassemble in the tiniest allowable bead.
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Aug 19, 2022 17:23
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PBCrunch posted:Could a car with four independently-controlled wheel motors steer normally through manipulation of relative wheel speed alone (spin the outer wheels a little faster than the inner wheels, possibly increase the delta more in the front than in the back)? Rivian filed some patents on an advanced version of this idea last month. In this photo the front wheels (I think?) Are rotating in opposite directions, at different rates. Not sure, didn't read the whole thing https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a36992523/rivian-patent-application-k-turn/ 
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Aug 19, 2022 18:04
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Hadlock posted:Rivian filed some patents on an advanced version of this idea last month. In this photo the front wheels (I think?) Are rotating in opposite directions, at different rates. Not sure, didn't read the whole thing Makes sense for electric vehicles, super easy to do with motors and not super easy to do with a conventional ICE drivetrain.
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Aug 19, 2022 18:10
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Cage posted:Never had a rebound as a kid? Since others have covered tank-steer/skid-steer well enough I just want to bring up one of the coolest things you can do with fully independent control of each wheel, the omniwheel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DBXuZv38l8 Obviously this design has a lot of sacrifices in terms of comfort and ability to operate at speed compared to a traditional tire but for warehouse equipment, robots, and the like it's basically infinite maneuverability.
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Aug 19, 2022 18:46
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IOwnCalculus posted:I would agree with this. Nobody wants to get Herculiner on their hootus. Hootus still pops into my head at least a couple times a week. Glad I'm not the only one.
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Aug 19, 2022 19:48
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And wear tires out like mad because of it.
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Aug 19, 2022 23:38
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