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I'm getting into mini painting for the first time. I've looked at some tutorials and the very nice OP but had a question. I built some 40k minis which will have black armor, red cloth, and gold trim. The first step after it's primed should be to paint the entire model black (in several layers), then the other colors? Or just paint the black and red over the primer?
Kevin DuBrow fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Aug 18, 2022 |
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Aug 18, 2022 22:45
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To start with: Paint black over the black parts, paint red over the red parts and paint gold over the gold parts.
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Aug 18, 2022 22:55
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Kevin DuBrow posted:I'm getting into mini painting for the first time. I've looked at some tutorials and the very nice OP but had a question. I built some 40k minis which will have black armor, red cloth, and gold trim. The first step after it's primed should be to paint the entire model black (in several layers), then the other colors? Or just paint the black and red over the primer? what color is your primer? you probably just want to prime then do the base coats of each color, then apply a wash and clean up your mistakes.
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Aug 18, 2022 23:01
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Kevin DuBrow posted:I'm getting into mini painting for the first time. I've looked at some tutorials but had a question. I built some 40k minis which will have black armor, red cloth, and gold trim. The first step after it's primed should be to paint the entire model black and then paint the red, then gold? And when I do the black and red I should do multiple layers of the same color? When you say paint the entire model black, i just want to make sure, you arent planning on painting the red cloth bits black, right? Once its primed, basically paint everything the colour you want it to be* (base coat). So paint the armour black, then the cloth red, then the trim gold. You should be thinning your paints a bit ("skimmed milk consistency" is what you hear a lot, but I've personally never found that helpful as a description, tbh), and if you dont get good coverage with one coat then a second layer of the same colour, yes. You dont want it so thick you obscure details or leave visible brushstrokes, but you dont want it so thin you need 7 coats. You get the hang of how thin to make your paint with practice. The exact order of operations is up to you. Some people like to paint from darkest to lightest colours, some swear by painting from the inside (closest to the skin) to outside (last layer of clothing or armour), some from biggest area of colour to smallest. I tend to do that last one, the colour the model is mostly, then the secondary colours, then going back for details last, but sometimes I do the skin first and work out. I dont think it makes much difference tbh. Hope this answered your questions! *Or at least roughly the colour you want it to be. You can make it a bit lighter then darken it with a wash, or you can start darker and highlight to brighter, and so on, but for your first model, lets stick to "paint the bits roughly the colour you want that bit to be". If you are using a black primer (probably the way to go with majority-black armoured models) and are struggling to get the red to pop you can always give the cloth a quick coat of white before the red base coat. Some paints struggle over black.
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Aug 18, 2022 23:05
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A friend of mine gave me a box of Gossamid Archers for my Sylvaneth, so I used them as an excuse to finally try out my GSW shifter paints (on the wings)   I'm happy overall - I realized way too late in my painting process that the GSW paint could have used another coat or 3. It was fighting my airbrush (next time I'm using a bigger gauge) so I didn't put enough down for the colorshifting part to really pull through at full strength. It looks like a shifty rose gold, which I'll settle for. Also - bless GW for making the wings/bugs on the back a totally separate assembly - I was able to paint them totally on their own and it made the whole process so much smoother.
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Aug 18, 2022 23:21
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Eej posted:To start with: Paint black over the black parts, paint red over the red parts and paint gold over the gold parts. Decide if you want your model to be "warm" or "cold" in tone and then add a tiny bit of red or blue to your black paint for the black bits. You can then use pure black to add shadows, the thinking is that black is as dark as something can be so if the entire thing is just black it's hard for the eyes to discern any detail or texture. Edit: if you don't have a brown it's okay, just make sure to paint the metal bits black first as metallics look much better painted over dark colors than light colors. For the red bits paint them in a dark red (I like dark crimsons). Then bring them up to your desired red, leaving the dark red in the resesses. (Dark reds tend to be more opaque then bright reds and pure red will look streaky directly over black). If you have a yellow mix a bit into your red for point highlights. (White highlights on red read as pink) For the gold bits paint them in a very dark brown. Then bring them up with your gold. If you have a bright silver paint you can mix that with gold to make point highlights on edges. kzin602 fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Aug 18, 2022 |
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Aug 18, 2022 23:27
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Kevin DuBrow posted:I'm getting into mini painting for the first time. I've looked at some tutorials and the very nice OP but had a question. I built some 40k minis which will have black armor, red cloth, and gold trim. The first step after it's primed should be to paint the entire model black (in several layers), then the other colors? Or just paint the black and red over the primer? You won't really have a good handle on how each color paint you have works until you drink some. Just a drop is fine for some people but I personally go for two.
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Aug 18, 2022 23:38
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Wrr posted:You won't really have a good handle on how each color paint you have works until you drink some. Just a drop is fine for some people but I personally go for two.
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Aug 18, 2022 23:46
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Just as a healds up, if anyone is needing halfling snipers Victoria Miniatures launched a Kickstarter for some less than an hour ago and all three stretch goals are unlocked. They're doing STLs for printing but also making Sio-Cast ones too. One sniper has a bag of chips next to them and another has what appears to be not one, but two beer coozies, so that's what sold me.
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Aug 19, 2022 00:50
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kzin602 posted:Decide if you want your model to be "warm" or "cold" in tone and then add a tiny bit of red or blue to your black paint for the black bits. I'm just saying for a "very first model I've ever built ever" I think it should just be as simple as "paint the colours you want over primer".
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Aug 19, 2022 02:43
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On the one hand, this is not much to brag about all things considered but on the other hand, hell yeah look at this! I've primed and basecoated with an airbrush for the first time! My attempts to zenethal basecoat with Vallejo steel and then silver didn't really work but that's really just hair-splitting. I definitely need to get the hang of thinning the paints, I think I have them a little overthinned since I was getting some light splattering but that could also be me not having great airflow control and/or distance feel and it's not helped by not having an air compressor that I can adjust the PSI on. Still, for a first attempt I feel very good about what I have achieved.
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Aug 19, 2022 02:48
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You got a nice base layer going anyway but yeah, pressure control is very, very important to airbrush control. If you can't adjust it then you basically have to get real good at thinning and managing your airbrush distance.
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Aug 19, 2022 02:52
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rantmo posted:On the one hand, this is not much to brag about all things considered but on the other hand, hell yeah look at this! I've primed and basecoated with an airbrush for the first time! Looks fantastic! Grey Knights are the original ELITE elites so I will always love them.
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Aug 19, 2022 03:13
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a fatguy baldspot posted:Looks fantastic! Grey Knights are the original ELITE elites so I will always love them. Thanks! It's my Grey Knight Kill Team, my first ever GW models at all actually. Having such an easy paint scheme is going to spoil me.
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Aug 19, 2022 03:16
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How is ProAcryl metalics vs Vallejo Metal Color line? I have one Duraluminium by vallejo and it's great. One coat and mostly opaque, exactly what I wanted for that color, but, vallejo's packages are like "would you like 4 pots of similar shades of silver?" No, not really. Debating picking up the set to eventually replace my junky citadel paints.... I mean, I don't need them, I still have plenty of paint left over I just....after having used them "enough" I feel like I want to grow out of them. edit: this could also be due to me loving their Dark Purple so goddamn much that I want to put it on everything. GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Aug 19, 2022 04:23
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Eej posted:I'm tellin ya'll, you just need two IKEA Tertials with some daylight bulbs and you're good to go for any painting light needs I use two of these for painting, with the good feit electric bulbs from Costco. They're really nice! I actually have three, I have one on my computer desk, one in the middle of my adjacent craft desk, and one on the edge between the two which can swing between the desks. I paint at my computer desk, and do larger terrain projects at the craft desk, so their range is really useful. Getting back into painting minis after a decade off, this is my 4th escher I'm working on. Paints are basically all Reaper dropper pot bottles on a wet palette. I have her mostly done, I just need to pick a hair color/style. I guess the tweet helps explain things. https://twitter.com/Ravendas16/status/1560473751954784258?s=20 Still need to clean up some bits, but my wash helps hide mistakes afterwards :|
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Aug 19, 2022 05:02
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Finished another Rumbleslam character, the Tin Khan I'm not sure why my cellphone camera is blowing the silver out so much. The contrast is nowhere near that high when looking at it with the naked eye.
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Aug 19, 2022 05:09
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Pro Acryl metals are great, but they are not metal color level. Better color selection though.
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Aug 19, 2022 05:15
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 I've been sitting on this guy for over a month and I think he's done enough that I can move on finally, even though it's not quite what I wanted.
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Aug 19, 2022 05:31
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SiKboy posted:The exact order of operations is up to you. Some people like to paint from darkest to lightest colours, some swear by painting from the inside (closest to the skin) to outside (last layer of clothing or armour), some from biggest area of colour to smallest. I tend to do that last one, the colour the model is mostly, then the secondary colours, then going back for details last, but sometimes I do the skin first and work out. I dont think it makes much difference tbh. Inside out works pretty well. I did get a bit of advice that I mostly follow: paint the face early. That gets the personality of the model defined early in painting, and is a nice encouragement to finish it.
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Aug 19, 2022 05:44
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Cinara posted:Pro Acryl metals are great, but they are not metal color level. Better color selection though. There's Dork paints but....they seem too 80s for me, and I never know which paint to get so I'd rather just get a grouping of paints. I don't think they have a bundle deal.
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Aug 19, 2022 05:46
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Just buy singles of the VMC, a few silvers and the copper/gold and then the GSW metal pigments to make more gold/copper/brass tones. Or some VMC silvers and the Pro Acryl copper/golds.
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Aug 19, 2022 05:50
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Cinara posted:Just buy singles of the VMC, a few silvers and the copper/gold and then the GSW metal pigments to make more gold/copper/brass tones. Or some VMC silvers and the Pro Acryl copper/golds. Vallejo metallic color are top of the food chain. Turbo dork are nice, but mainly for their colorshofting metallics
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Aug 19, 2022 05:51
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Cinara posted:Just buy singles of the VMC, a few silvers and the copper/gold and then the GSW metal pigments to make more gold/copper/brass tones. Or some VMC silvers and the Pro Acryl copper/golds. i have a bottle of vallejo metal medium I could use that. I have a decent? range of citadel metallics, I'm just not very thrilled with them.  minus of course the vmc color I mentioned. GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Aug 19, 2022 05:56
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For traditional use I really don't like citadel metallics. Leadbelcher and retributor armor are fine, I guess. But I really like using the steel colors for drybrushing. IDK why but of all the brands I've tried out, they work the best when drybrushing. Note that this is just the steel colors, their golds like to act really weird when drybrushing. For gold colors I've really liked the p3 and scale75 golds, notably using necro/blighted gold as a base then working up from that using the others. Those two colors base really well and then some light touches of yellow gold or brass just make it pop. Edit: now that I think about it, I haven't really tested out how well the scale75 steel colors drybrush and I don't own any of the p3 steel colors because I didn't want to buy any more steel colors as I have a ton of the VMC colors (magnesium, jet exhaust, exhaust manifold, and chrome are the best, go ahead and @ me) Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Aug 19, 2022 06:25
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Winklebottom posted:Thanks! It’s embarrassingly close to my goblin scheme, but Incubi Darkness, Kabalite Green and Sybarite Green are probably my favorite paints Are those the colors you used on that marine? It's an awesome scheme and I'm going to steal that someday
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Aug 19, 2022 06:29
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I love warlock bronze and screaming bell.
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Aug 19, 2022 06:33
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Spanish Manlove posted:For traditional use I really don't like citadel metallics. Leadbelcher and retributor armor are fine, I guess. But I really like using the steel colors for drybrushing. IDK why but of all the brands I've tried out, they work the best when drybrushing. Note that this is just the steel colors, their golds like to act really weird when drybrushing. For gold colors I've really liked the p3 and scale75 golds, notably using necro/blighted gold as a base then working up from that using the others. Those two colors base really well and then some light touches of yellow gold or brass just make it pop. Spanish Manlove posted:Are those the colors you used on that marine? It's an awesome scheme and I'm going to steal that someday Yeah, those are the ones I used for the marine armor and my goblin robes, they're great. I tend to agree with you on citadel metallics, but I actually quite like Balthasar Gold and Sycorax Bronze (which I also used on the marine).
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Aug 19, 2022 06:42
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Someone recently, I think it was fb, posted their Grey power ranger collection of minis and I don't have any but kinda want to get the Metal Power Rangers and do some cool metallic blues and pinks and so on
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Aug 19, 2022 13:34
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mllaneza posted:Inside out works pretty well. I did get a bit of advice that I mostly follow: paint the face early. That gets the personality of the model defined early in painting, and is a nice encouragement to finish it. Its all just personal preference, and I will say I dont have a very consistent routine. I would say I tend to block out the biggest areas of colour (so armour, uniforms, coats, or skin if they are shirtless), then second biggest (generally trousers) down to smallest area of a given colour (say belts and pouches). Basically I like having 3 colours on a figure and thinking "Trousers, shirt and skin all basecoated. Technically this is 80% done, I could just slap some brown on the boots and give the whole thing a strongtone wash if I wanted". That encourages me personally to do more better than "I've spent ages on the face, but the figure is still mainly primer" does. I'll do dark to light sometimes if I'm working with a lot of contrast paints/speed paints. I guess more properly "translucent to opaque". Just because if I get yellow contrast paint on top of the black contrast thats a fairly easy fix, if I get black on top of the yellow its more of a pain. And sometimes I do entirely the opposite because I didnt know what colour to make part of a figure when I started, then 90% of the way through I'll decide that actually that bit should be blue, and this other bit... well, now that bits blue, yellow could be quite striking there? or whatever. Or because I accidentally put too much of a particular paint on my palette and I've gone to the pile of shame to find out if I have another figure that could have a part painted scorpion green. I'd probably nail down an order of operations if I was painting an entire army of similar figures but I mainly do skirmish warbands which can be very different figures week to week.
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Aug 19, 2022 13:51
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Ravendas posted:
New pics with her 'main' arms on here. Painting yellow is hard. I primed grey, then used Reaper Fire Orange (single thin coat) over it as a base, then one coat of thinned Reaper Golden Yellow on the cords and two coats on the tanks, and it doesn't look very smooth. Oh well, it's Necromunda, it's supposed to look messy :| https://twitter.com/Ravendas16/status/1560616921741107200
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Aug 19, 2022 14:23
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Winklebottom posted:Yeah, those are the ones I used for the marine armor and my goblin robes, they're great. I tend to agree with you on citadel metallics, but I actually quite like Balthasar Gold and Sycorax Bronze (which I also used on the marine). Iron Warriors is slightly newer, but I’ve found it to be a really solid dark silver/gunmetal color. Really nice coverage, serves as a great base for lighter silvers.
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Aug 19, 2022 15:04
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Ravendas posted:Painting yellow is hard. These guys will get yellow pads and sashes, which means I'll have to cover all that value sketching with elf pink because I keep forgetting to stop drybrushing: 
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Aug 19, 2022 15:09
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Basecoat white and apply either Imperial Fists Yellow or Iron Jawz Yellow contrast paints, add more yellows if desired. I am actually doing my iron jawz in yellow because the contrast paint makes it so easy now. You get a great yellow in one coat, it is magic.
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Aug 19, 2022 15:42
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On the metallics front, I'll throw in my vote for P3 (Privateer Press).
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Aug 19, 2022 16:42
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Picked up the big Horus Heresy box, and I'm enjoying quickly cranking out Alpha Legionnaires. Quickly for me, anyway. Just 36 more to go.
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Aug 19, 2022 18:43
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Loden Taylor posted:Picked up the big Horus Heresy box, and I'm enjoying quickly cranking out Alpha Legionnaires. Quickly for me, anyway. Looks beautiful - great job on the blue and the bases.
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Aug 19, 2022 19:31
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Well, I decided to go ahead and pick up a 3d printer, because I think it will be really fun to print off goofy little upgrades and bases and everything, and maybe try to print off some actual minis to see how nice they are. I had to do a pre-order so I have a little while to collect some .stl files and whatnot. The printer I ordered had some really good reviews on Youtube, it is called a Saturn 2 and it is made by this company called Elegoo. So when I get that all set up in September when it is scheduled to arrive I can let the thread know how it prints!
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Aug 19, 2022 19:59
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Well, I decided to go ahead and pick up a 3d printer, because I think it will be really fun to print off goofy little upgrades and bases and everything, and maybe try to print off some actual minis to see how nice they are. I had to do a pre-order so I have a little while to collect some .stl files and whatnot. The printer I ordered had some really good reviews on Youtube, it is called a Saturn 2 and it is made by this company called Elegoo. So when I get that all set up in September when it is scheduled to arrive I can let the thread know how it prints! There's a few Patreons that have good stuff for a decent price to build up that digital backlog, but if you want fantasy stiff, I'm gonna suggest Broken Anvil - for $9 a month they release a ton of minis, I've never had an issue with printing them and the supports come off the best of any of the studios I get STLs from. They also just released some freebies including a couple from their current Grimdark Wizard of Oz bundle For sci-fi I'll suggest Anvil Industry though I tend to find their supports a bit of a pain.
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Aug 19, 2022 21:21
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Loden Taylor posted:Picked up the big Horus Heresy box, and I'm enjoying quickly cranking out Alpha Legionnaires. Quickly for me, anyway. Just swell, and perfect. How was the blue accomplished?
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Aug 19, 2022 21:24
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