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Yep. That's the one.
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Aug 19, 2022 03:36
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me because i'm horribly out of shape
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Aug 19, 2022 03:40
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I would simply stay asleep in my comfy, comfy bed.
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Aug 19, 2022 04:53
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No weaknesses in that design? I disagree. I've had plenty of these all the way up to 2008ish. The fork mounted dynamo (actually an alternator but everyone calls it a dynamo) was the only option in its time. It has several downsides: - The rolling resistance is large. Although it only delivers 3w of power which would normally be imperceptible, the wheel running design made it really inefficient and above a certain speed a lot of the generated energy is just converted into heat (they can get hot!). It always feels like you're having a headwind. - The frame is typically used as ground. The front light usually kinda works, the rear light often quits working because of corrosion between the frame and the fender, or between fender and the rear light. - The little wires typically run through the frame, but they will often surface again somewhere. They often get pulled off there. - Moisture ingress in the lights ALL THE drat TIME. - When the bolt/nut that keeps the dynamo in place loosens from all the vibrations, the dynamo can shift position from the force, and get into your wheel/spokes. This is a very bad failure mode and i'm always somewhat anxious to use them because of this. - In the rain, the little wheel on the dynamo starts to slip. Solution is to bend the arm the dynamo is mounted on so it presses harder onto the wheel, but that increases the risk of the thing shifting and getting into the wheel. It was not hard to fix the electric problems (just some sandpaper and a screwdriver would usually do the job) and to get it working again, but the whole system is very prone to getting small, somewhat easy to fix but still annoying defects. Battery operated lights were no realistic possibility in the era of incandescent lights. The total power draw is 500-600mA at 6v, and that would drain 4 D-cells of that era in less than 8 hours. It would mayyybe give you one week of commuting in winter. The last time i used one was 3 years ago when i was delivering mail in winter time, for which i always used old worn out bicycles cause they don't like having 40kg of mail on the rear wheel, day in day out. Idk exactly why but my LED lights failed or broke off or whatever. It was nice to have it as a backup system. It took a bit of fiddling with the corroded wires and crap to get it working again, but it worked nonetheless and i could finish my mail route in relative safety from people not seeing me, and from cops waiting around the corner to fine cyclists without light. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 11:21 on Aug 19, 2022 |
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Aug 19, 2022 11:19
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Yes I will toss the lights and use my Fenix LED lights thanks. I found a bike shop which had the 23.35mm threaded tool to remove those worthless stronglight cranks. Now I'm fighting with the stuck bottom bracket, chain side. It's always mega stuck and I hate the design and I'm going to throw it away ASAP as I get it out. I'll save the cargo racks and fenders, they seemed good enough and the weight is reasonable too (unless you compare it to some titanium ultralight cargo rack which costs 250€).
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Aug 19, 2022 12:04
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LimaBiker posted:No weaknesses in that design? I disagree. I've had plenty of these all the way up to 2008ish. ... I read the whole post, and everything you said is right. But, I should say that I was being 100% sarcastic. Even as a little kid spinning the rotor by hand to get the light to go on, I knew it was terrible as an actual light. I was a science nerd, and I'd played with little generators and dynamos. The more draw, the more resistance. And with no power storage on board, the instant you quit turning, the light goes out. That's not ideal for a vehicle light.
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Aug 19, 2022 13:15
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tarlibone posted:... I read the whole post, and everything you said is right. But, I should say that I was being 100% sarcastic. Even as a little kid spinning the rotor by hand to get the light to go on, I knew it was terrible as an actual light. I was a science nerd, and I'd played with little generators and dynamos. The more draw, the more resistance. And with no power storage on board, the instant you quit turning, the light goes out. That's not ideal for a vehicle light.
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Aug 19, 2022 14:18
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Is there some way to tell for 100% sure if my bike has BSA, French or Swiss thread BB? The chainring side bottom bracket cup doesn't move at all. I am trying to rotate it counterclockwise. What should I measure or look for? The BB has no markings and only the axle reads NERVAR 126     
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Aug 19, 2022 14:31
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I love that you're live blogging working on an old French bike so that future posters can just be pointed to your series of frustrations. A true service to the thread. That said: measure the thread pitch on the bb cup you removed. Either with micrometer+counting or just compare to a BSA cup and see if the threads mesh.
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Aug 19, 2022 15:59
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bicievino posted:I love that you're live blogging working on an old French bike so that future posters can just be pointed to your series of frustrations. A true service to the thread. Some guy over at bikeforums said that it is a british BB: "a NERVAR fixed cup with one ring and two flats is BSC ("English") thread cycle appears it may be just late enough for when mfr began using BSC/ISO dimension french makers began switching over about 1983-84"  So I tried to unscrew it to another direction and it opened. I even made an excel with the weights: Now to figure out what kind of parts I'd like to install:  Cheap or expensive? 
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Aug 19, 2022 16:44
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Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud posted:Those Eliptigo things are ridiculous, of course they can't sell them. I was at a venture presentation years ago when the inventors first presented these. I don't want one but apparently quite a few people in San Diego do. They also sell a seatless 'conventional' bike. 
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Aug 19, 2022 17:14
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I snagged a new Pelso Brevent crabon recumbent frame, it was a deal: Want to set it up with a 1x11 or 1x12. I have the fork to run fat 650B wheels as well. Should I go with an 11 or 12? Are there road 1x11/12's, the sets I see would have my top gear at 85".
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Aug 19, 2022 17:21
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Ihmemies posted:Is there some way to tell for 100% sure if my bike has BSA, French or Swiss thread BB? The chainring side bottom bracket cup doesn't move at all. I am trying to rotate it counterclockwise. I have a '70s Motobecane that I've had to do significant amount of work on at the coop workshop to get running smoothly and mercifully the BB is still spinning for now, but I am not looking forward to replacing that.
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Aug 19, 2022 18:00
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VideoGameVet posted:I was at a venture presentation years ago when the inventors first presented these. I don't want one but apparently quite a few people in San Diego do. It's great to see innovators figuring out a way to charge more for less
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Aug 19, 2022 19:25
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VideoGameVet posted:Are there road 1x11/12's, the sets I see would have my top gear at 85". Yes (and most (all?) road 2x can be converted into 1x pretty happily)
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Aug 19, 2022 19:43
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VideoGameVet posted:Want to set it up with a 1x11 or 1x12. I have the fork to run fat 650B wheels as well. Get as small gearing jumps as you can without sacrificing granny gear.
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Aug 19, 2022 20:15
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kimbo305 posted:Get as small gearing jumps as you can without sacrificing granny gear. I figure going to 12 cogs makes sense. I'm tired of front derailleurs anyway. My Bacchetta Triple is a f-ing pain to go from the 24t granny to the 39t middle. If I go with a 40t ring and a 10-50 12 speed cogset, that's a 21.6" to a 108" range. Currently my Bacchetta has a 19.5" to 127" range with the triple. I use the 19.5" maybe a few times a year and at that point I'm struggling with front wheel lift anyway :-) There's always Campy's Ekar groupset, but 13cogs chain? Maybe not.
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Aug 19, 2022 21:23
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I want a new wool jersey, probably lighter weight. Any suggestions? Club cut, maybe more on the classic / italian look. Its for when I ride my retrogrouch bike. In the past, Ive gotten stuff from like Swobo and such. Should I head to ebay and look for a deal? I hear good things about Rapha, but they dont seem to have the look I'm looking for.
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Aug 19, 2022 23:59
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I'm Pedaling for Autism tomorrow with my wife. We're taking slightly different routes, since she can't ride as far as I can. My plan is to do 40 miles, but the weather forecast according to my phone is a rain cloud and a cloud with a lightning bolt, so I've scoped out the spot where I can decide to cut it down to about 26 miles. I don't have any wet weather kit or anything, so "scattered storms" might mean I'm in for a cloudy ride, a damp ride, or pure misery. But if I pedal extra hard, I'll... get the autism? I'm not sure how these things work, but I do have an autistic son, so I'll ride for him. On my new road bike.
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Aug 20, 2022 01:26
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Planet X posted:I want a new wool jersey, probably lighter weight. Any suggestions? Club cut, maybe more on the classic / italian look. Its for when I ride my retrogrouch bike. The dhb merino stuff is pretty light. Has a few even lighter tech fabric pieces for extra breathing too iirc. I have the short sleeve. It's more tech though, do you want button up? Edit: try PEdALED: https://pedaled.com/us_en/men/categories/cycling-jerseys?features=86 sweat poteto fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 02:02
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If you wanna go full retro yeah either ebay or you could try https://www.soigneur.co.nz/ They do what look like pretty good merino reproduction stuff, although you said on the light side.
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Aug 20, 2022 03:51
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So I thought about stuff and maybe this would do for a bike.  Does it make any sense? Shimano 105 road shifters with GRX cranks & deraileur (and some additional piece to enable shifting to 46t). Some wheels, handlebar etc. 1300€ total for parts, including the bike... When did bike parts become so expensive when bought new :F I'd save the frameset, fenders, chromed cargo racks, the bell and mafac centerpull brakes.
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Aug 20, 2022 10:52
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Spending that much on an 80s drainpipe frame feels like a mistake. If you're not doing a vintage resto build you would do far better with a midrange used modern bike.
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Aug 20, 2022 12:26
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Vando posted:Spending that much on an 80s drainpipe frame feels like a mistake. If you're not doing a vintage resto build you would do far better with a midrange used modern bike. Well I don't like old parts, they mostly suck. They're not fun to use or drive with. What does the pipe used matter? It was sold with the cargo racks so I hope/assume the frame and fork are sturdy enough to take the load. Frame is 2,9kg and fork 910g. Used bike would have used parts, with accompanying problems. Old greases, worn out bearings, out of true rims.. worn chains, chainrings, casette, stuck cabling etc. With my luck that is. What would be a better option to spend ~1200? Any suggestions? I'd prefer a bike with cargo racks and real fenders. For the money you can buy a new frameset like this: https://pelagobicycles.com/stavanger-frameset/ It has disc brake holes and the fork is sturdier, so a 9cm smaller frame weighs 2,64kg and fork is 1,2kg. But then the money would be spent and I'd have 2 frames and 0 bikes. The Peugeot is 150€ with train tickets and crank removal so I'm not deep in here yet. I can buy something else but I have no idea what. Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 13:54
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105 is a ludicrous overspeccing for something like that
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Aug 20, 2022 14:14
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Ah the old Peugeot trap. When an unworthy bike meets an unstoppable goon.
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Aug 20, 2022 15:30
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Eg. a new kona rove AL is 1000 euros. That leaves 200 eur for racks and mudguards.
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Aug 20, 2022 15:31
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tarlibone posted:But if I pedal extra hard, I'll... get the autism? I'm not sure how these things work, but I do have an autistic son, so I'll ride for him. On my new road bike. Dumb joke but ok. Have fun dude.
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Aug 20, 2022 15:31
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Havana Affair posted:Eg. a new kona rove AL is 1000 euros. That leaves 200 eur for racks and mudguards. But it will then have Claris/Tektro bottom of the barrel parts. What's the point of using so much money for so low quality parts?
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Aug 20, 2022 15:47
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Ihmemies posted:But it will then have Claris/Tektro bottom of the barrel parts. What's the point of using so much money for so low quality parts? Claris and Tektro are fine. If you want to build up that old Peugeot with 105 just for the fun of assembling a bike I say go for it. You can put nearly everything (all of it except for the seatpost and probably the brakes) on a nicer frame next year if you want to. One thing I noticed: it looks like you have a 31.8mm handlebar listed but no stem
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Aug 20, 2022 15:57
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Clark Nova posted:Claris and Tektro are fine. If you want to build up that old Peugeot with 105 just for the fun of assembling a bike I say go for it. You can put nearly everything (all of it except for the seatpost and probably the brakes) on a nicer frame next year if you want to. One thing I noticed: it looks like you have a 31.8mm handlebar listed but no stem The only 105 part would really be the brifters. They have 11 speed rear shifter with them and support short pull mechanical brakes. Other option would be SRAM Rival 1 and no idea about what is left after that. Gevanelle with microshift? Microshift brifters? https://www.microshift.com/products/components/shifters/drop-bar/gravel-sb/?jsf=jet-woo-products-grid&tax=pa_group:168 Forget about "mullet" setup and get parts with front deraileur? I'm still wondering what specs a nicer frame has. Like what features does a nicer frame have that the cheap Peugeot frame doesn't have? (except disc brakes ofc) I have to buy a 24mm seatpost from ebay because the one it came with is too short. I'm considering using the mafac brakes. They are not mafac raids or rivendell reproductions but I guess they should be good enough? I am thinking about what to do with the handlebar situation. I have some 31.8mm stems but they are all black. I don't think anyone makes quill stems with a 31.8mm clamp so I'd have to buy a quill stem which is just a straight pipe. I've seen some people with such a setup. Most new handlebars are 31.8mm so it would be easier to buy one of those instead of trying to find a non-existing modern handlebar for a quill stem..      
Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 16:05
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There are 31.8mm quill stems. I'm not sure there are *french* 31.8mm stems, though, if that's what you need.
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Aug 20, 2022 16:12
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Ihmemies posted:I'm still wondering what specs a nicer frame has. Like what features does a nicer frame have that the cheap Peugeot frame doesn't have? (except disc brakes ofc) lighter and stronger or stiffer tubing forged and/or vertical dropouts water bottle bosses compatible with modern component standards (haha) 700c wheel compatible with normal brake reach
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Aug 20, 2022 16:14
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Clark Nova posted:There are 31.8mm quill stems. I'm not sure there are *french* 31.8mm stems, though, if that's what you need. The French fork is 22.0mm while standard is 22.2mm. The narrowest part is the fork pipe so the whole stem needs to be sanded down: https://sheldonbrown.com/velos.html "In cases where the stem really won't fit into the steerer, a few minutes' work on the stem with sandpaper will usually do the trick. Wrap the sandpaper around the stem, grip it with your hand, and turn the stem round and round until it fits. You only need to remove 0.1 mm, which is 1/250", not much at all! [This needs to be a quill-type stem, which inserts into the steerer tube, and an aluminum alloy stem, not a steel one -- from which you would be removing chrome plating, leaving it vulnerable to rust." A 22.2mm japanese stem went quite deep without even sanding so a light sanding should do the trick.
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Aug 20, 2022 16:15
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Ihmemies posted:
Weight, more efficient and comfortable geometry, more compliant materials, thru- axles, and more compatibility with modern parts. Do you know the width of the rear triangle? Will it fit the hubs on your list? Depending on the age it may not be wide enough and you will need to find a way to spread it without compromising the strength of the steel. This can be a huge problem with cheaper steel because it is not as compliant. You should also make sure that you are getting 11s 105 and 11s GRX. They also make a 10s GRX which while compatible with 105 brifters will have an extra shift point that you need to take out with the limit screws. Although on handlebars, you can still find modern bars that fit quill stems. For example: https://velo-orange.com/collections/handlebars/products/grand-cru-rando-handlebar
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Aug 20, 2022 16:18
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:lighter and stronger or stiffer tubing I don't know anyone who sells lighter tubing but which can take some weight. Like 90kg man + gear etc. I asked Colnago and they said a 90kg rider max and no cargo. What is the benefit of stiffer tubing? If I wanted stiff wouldn't a carbon or alu frame be better? quote:forged and/or vertical dropouts What is the benefits of these? I don't know. I guess my nishiki has forged dropouts since it reads "SHIMANO" and they look a bit different, nicer. quote:water bottle bosses My nishiki had only 1 pair of bosses so I bought these: https://www.wiggle.co.uk/dmr-hinged-clamps-1 They're not too expensive. The Peugeot drainpipe was 28.3mm with paint so a light shim should do the work. Probably fits without shims too. quote:compatible with modern component standards (haha) If I "cold set" the rear fork to 5mm wider then it will fit quite standard 130mm Quick release hubs. The deraileur came with unremovable hanger so I have to buy a deraileur hanger (10e from Shimano). You can buy hollowtech 2 bottom brackets for the bike. A saddle is a saddle. What else I need, something I've forgotten? quote:700c wheel compatible with normal brake reach The rims it came with are 622mm, so standard size. FredLordofCheese posted:Weight, more efficient and comfortable geometry, more compliant materials, thru- axles, and more compatibility with modern parts. What are thru-axles? I've only ever had quick release axles  quote:Do you know the width of the rear triangle? Will it fit the hubs on your list? Depending on the age it may not be wide enough and you will need to find a way to spread it without compromising the strength of the steel. This can be a huge problem with cheaper steel because it is not as compliant. 125mm, no. Maybe I should start with widening first. Sheldon has some instructions for it and it doesn't look too bad: https://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html quote:You should also make sure that you are getting 11s 105 and 11s GRX. They also make a 10s GRX which while compatible with 105 brifters will have an extra shift point that you need to take out with the limit screws. I'm quite sure both in the list were 11s. quote:Although on handlebars, you can still find modern bars that fit quill stems. Thanks! Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 16:22
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Ihmemies posted:But it will then have Claris/Tektro bottom of the barrel parts. What's the point of using so much money for so low quality parts? You're the one installing them on that Peugeot Ihmemies posted:I'm still wondering what specs a nicer frame has. Like what features does a nicer frame have that the cheap Peugeot frame doesn't have? (except disc brakes ofc) It'll feel better to ride (more comfortable, less flexy in the BB, better steering, more responsive to putting power down, etc) and be more robust. The Peugeot PX10 was an entry level bike frame 50 years ago. Ihmemies posted:I don't know anyone who sells lighter tubing but which can take some weight. Like 90kg man + gear etc. I asked Colnago and they said a 90kg rider max and no cargo. What is the benefit of stiffer tubing? If I wanted stiff wouldn't a carbon or alu frame be better? Why on earth did you ask Colnago about a touring/commuter bike? 90kg rider max is an absurdly low limit, even the Specialized Aethos (which has a frame weighing <600g) has a rider weight limit of 125kg. MrL_JaKiri fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 16:29
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Clark Nova posted:Claris and Tektro are fine. If you want to build up that old Peugeot with 105 just for the fun of assembling a bike I say go for it. You can put nearly everything (all of it except for the seatpost and probably the brakes) on a nicer frame next year if you want to. One thing I noticed: it looks like you have a 31.8mm handlebar listed but no stem Counterpoint: It sounds like he wants a gravel / bikepacking bike (specing GRX etc). Much better to just get one with disc brakes now than waste money buying parts and building it up on an unsuitable frame. Not to mention: does someone who doesn’t own other bikes already have the tools & equipment to re-build an entire bike? That’s probably hundreds on its own all-in. I doubt modern brifters even work well with centre pull rim brakes. Imo Just buy a new or used aluminium framed gravel bike that can take rack / guards. It’ll be far lighter, you don’t need to build it up. Have it serviced if you’re sketchy about used parts, but they will last for decades if maintained. A rack is an under $100 addition to nearly any bike, you don’t need to build your future bike around an existing, dated, heavy as gently caress frame and rack. If you want to tour with full panniers, don’t go 1x. You need loving low gearing for hills. Ihmemies posted:I'm still wondering what specs a nicer frame has. Like what features does a nicer frame have that the cheap Peugeot frame doesn't have? (except disc brakes ofc) - Doesn’t weigh 3kg - has carbon forks which smooth the vibrations going into your hands. - Uses modern standard parts so that you don’t need to spend money on dead standard specialist stem, seatpost etc. - Same for hub spacing, wheels fitting, tyre clearance etc. - Doesn’t weigh 3kg wooger fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 16:30
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The steel of the frame may not spread as easily. Cheaper steel is brittle and could crack rather than bend. More expensive steel is usually made a different way and can be lighter and stronger. 4130 is usually the cheapest strong steel and I personally wouldn't buy anything cheaper than that without worrying about failure.
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Aug 20, 2022 16:30
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gently caress the haters restomod that poo poo at least start with a decent frame christ
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Aug 20, 2022 16:35
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