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MrL_JaKiri posted:Why on earth did you ask Colnago about a touring/commuter bike? 90kg rider max is an absurdly low limit, even the Specialized Aethos (which has a frame weighing <600g) has a rider weight limit of 125kg. Campagnolo manuals (used to?) say max rider weight of 80 kilos for all parts. Yes, even the front derailler. As for the Peugeot if you basically want a new bike with an old frame I'd at least get one with canti posts cause spexing grx I'm guessing you're not gonna be happy with ancient low end center pulls.
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Aug 20, 2022 16:49
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spf3million posted:gently caress the haters restomod that poo poo That frame won't fit racks or fenders. There's physically no room. Can you give some example of a nicer frames so at least I know what should I be looking for instead? Thanks. My Nishiki has a low gear of 42-26... I think a 36/40/42-46 is a lot better than that. MrL_JaKiri posted:You're the one installing them on that Peugeot Frame is a frame? I really don't understand the differences between a frame. quote:It'll feel better to ride (more comfortable, less flexy in the BB, better steering, more responsive to putting power down, etc) and be more robust. The Peugeot PX10 was an entry level bike frame 50 years ago. Ok. So these are kind of subjective and hard to mesure, I'd have to buy several bikes to compare the differences to find out why the Peugeot sucks. That's not an easy task really. quote:Why on earth did you ask Colnago about a touring/commuter bike? 90kg rider max is an absurdly low limit, even the Specialized Aethos (which has a frame weighing <600g) has a rider weight limit of 125kg. Well I asked last year. I have a Nishiki road bike with tange champion no 2 tubing. I looked at lighter frames than my Nishiki. Nishiki weighs the same as my Peugeot or maybe 100-200g less, but it's 62/56cm instead of 63/60cm. I wondered what are the downsides of lighter frames, and asked Colnago since they sell light steel frames. I doubt Specialized Aethos is made from steel tho. Does anyone make 600g steel frames which have a 125kg weight limit? Doesn't look like it will fit fenders and racks too, so you'd have to buy something heavier. Havana Affair posted:Campagnolo manuals (used to?) say max rider weight of 80 kilos for all parts. Yes, even the front derailler. Hmm, right. I could try out the parts in Peugeot tho and move them to a new frame when I find one? Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 17:22
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wooger posted:Counterpoint: Well I want a bike to go to Prisma to buy some groceries. Then I thought I could use the same bike when touring. I redid disc brakes to my MTB, lines, calipers and all that and I really hated it. Rim brakes are so much easier to work with. quote:I doubt modern brifters even work well with centre pull rim brakes. quote:Imo Just buy a new or used aluminium framed gravel bike that can take rack / guards. It’ll be far lighter, you don’t need to build it up. Have it serviced if you’re sketchy about used parts, but they will last for decades if maintained. Why would I want to pay someone for service? I can do it myself, I just don't like dealing with old rear end parts.. How much lighter it would be, 1-2kg? Does it matter if the user and bike is 110kg+ already? quote:A rack is an under $100 addition to nearly any bike, you don’t need to build your future bike around an existing, dated, heavy as gently caress frame and rack. My Excel gives a weight of 13,5kg with everything. I think that's reasonable. My Nishiki road bike without fenders, racks and and with 25mm tyres and 13mm wide rims weighs 11,7kg. quote:If you want to tour with full panniers, don’t go 1x. You need loving low gearing for hills. Isn't the idea of those big rear end casettes that you have low gears? MTB's need low gears and they all have 1x. You can these days buy a casette with up to 46-50t largest gear. quote:- Doesn’t weigh 3kg - Peugeot is 3,8kg with the fork. - Won't bigger 40mm tyres, steel frame & fork and cushioned bar tape help? I have to use thick 3mm tape anyways because the standard bar diameter is too small for my hands. - But the quill stems look so nice. Seatpost is 25€ + shipping from ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/202541516166 There are bigger money sinks than a seatpost in this project.. - You can widen the hub spacing most likely. Wheels will fit, the forks are really quite wide. I measured the tyre clearance and 40mm tyres have enough clearance even with the fenders, 5-6mm between forks. At least I think it is enough! Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 17:34
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I looked at new bikes on a similar 1300€ budget and I could get something like this: https://rtech.fi/tuote/cube_cross_race_2022_cyclocrosspyora?attr1_id=179 It has at least Tiagra parts so not too terrible. I'd have to buy a new fork or use a fork extension. The fork extensions are quite sketchy though, at least the one in my MTB doesn't stay put always. I mean it rotates around the fork tube sometimes even after sanding down the fork and extension and clamping it as tight as was reasonable... Now that bike with alu frame is 10,3kg in some unknown size, how much it will be in 61 cm size? Racks and fenders give at least like 1,5-2kg extra unless you go for titanium racks or something like that. I'd end up with the same weight even with the lightweight alu frame.. and I'd have to buy a wider saddle anyways, that's 87€.
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Aug 20, 2022 17:41
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Ihmemies posted:Frame is a frame? I really don't understand the differences between a frame. Buy a modern bike and find out! Ihmemies posted:Well I asked last year. I have a Nishiki road bike with tange champion no 2 tubing. I looked at lighter frames than my Nishiki. Nishiki weighs the same as my Peugeot or maybe 100-200g less, but it's 62/56cm instead of 63/60cm. I wondered what are the downsides of lighter frames, and asked Colnago since they sell light steel frames. If you're going to the shop to buy things or going touring, doubly so given that you weigh 90kg, a light frame should not only be the last of your priorities but also the first of your priorities of things to avoid. You want something robust and ideally easy to work on if touring as having a bunch of non-standard parts will result in your tour ending early if you have a part break in the middle of nowhere. Ihmemies posted:I don't know either so trying it out would be one way to find out. The brake handle pulls the brake cable tighter, which pushes the brake shoes against the rim. I don't see why it wouldn't work out. All the brake handles ever do is pull the cable. They pull the cable different distances. The 105 shifters will be short pull, so no matter how much you pull on the brake handle the shoes will never reach the rim if you need long pull brake levers. MrL_JaKiri fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 17:47
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I was able to get my wife hyped up enough to try the 26 mile route today at the charity group ride. She agreed to do it if I skipped the 40 and did the 26 with her, so I did. I was hoping she'd go for this. Wonderful ride. Got my first proper pair of cycling socks, too. And it barely rained at all. Looks like her e-bike is going to get her riding again.
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Aug 20, 2022 17:48
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MrL_JaKiri posted:Buy a modern bike and find out! I have been buying new MTB bikes every once in a while after my old one gets stolen. My current one is something like this:  Nothing special really. I find my old Nishiki from 1982 a lot nicer to drive around. So I thought that maybe another old steel bike would be better than a new aluminium bike I don't like too much. quote:If you're going to the shop to buy things or going touring, doubly so given that you weigh 90kg, a light frame should not only be the last of your priorities but also the first of your priorities of things to avoid. You want something robust and ideally easy to work on if touring as having a bunch of non-standard parts will result in your tour ending early if you have a part break in the middle of nowhere. Yeah. So a steel frame made for touring, like the Peugeot, sounds like a safe bet. I think (but I'm not sure) that the parts list I looked for is quite robust. The parts should be easy to work on. I can carry a spare deraileur hanger if it gets bent. Are brifters a bad idea? My road bike has bar end shifters but they're quite slow to use so I wanted to try out something else. If the brifters are too fragile I could move them to my road bike and move the dura-ace bar ends to the Peugeot. quote:They pull the cable different distances. The 105 shifters will be short pull, so no matter how much you pull on the brake handle the shoes will never reach the rim. Aren't v-brakes the only long pull brakes? Rest are "standard" so short pull. Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 17:55
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In general the philosophy behind resurrecting old frames outside of restoration is because they're a decent base for chucking all your old spare parts on and getting something rideable out of it. There's nothing really wrong with pretty much any frankenbike build you want to do in all honesty, but ancient frame + new high grade parts is definitely going to fail at least one out of performance, ease of use and cost effectiveness. Throwing a grands worth of parts on an old frame is not saving you anything vs spending maybe half as much. Also Claris and Tektro parts are not 'garbage', they're not top tier but they're a million miles ahead of anything contemporary to a multi-decade old steel frame.
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Aug 20, 2022 17:59
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MrL_JaKiri posted:
This. Buy a common modern bike built from common modern parts for banging out miles. IMO you could turn this thing into a valid tourer. But it'll be more costly, frustrating, and time consuming than spending the same money to buy something cromulent and miling it to its death. You could go through the effort to bring this frame up to speed to find the geometry outright sucks with what you're trying to do with it. I'm not here to yuck your yum or anything because I polish turds all day everyday but at some point you gotta answer the question; Do you want the hobby to be about riding or do you want the hobby to be about dicking with the bike? Its ok to do both. There be dragons to do both with the same piece of hardware. It also doesn't need 105. Tiagra is already finer than anything that was available in the 80s.
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Aug 20, 2022 18:00
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Ok man just do it but post pictures and don’t expect everyone to cheer you on
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Aug 20, 2022 18:06
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cursedshitbox posted:This. Buy a common modern bike built from common modern parts for banging out miles. Isn't the geometry quite standard in these old bikes? At least the chainstay is long so I dont't bang the rear rack bags with my heels, hopefully.. I have a EU 48 / US 12?? size shoe so it's not the smallest. You can move the saddle forward and backwards, up and down. With quill stems you can easily adjust the height of the handlebar and with different lengths you can adjust the distance. Honestly I don't know anything about bike geometry, I've just been adjusting the handlebar situation. I can't use SPD or SPD-SL pedals because I haven't found a large shoe yet. I've tried several but they've all been too small in some way or another. quote:I'm not here to yuck your yum or anything because I polish turds all day everyday but at some point you gotta answer the question; Do you want the hobby to be about riding or do you want the hobby to be about dicking with the bike? Its ok to do both. There be dragons to do both with the same piece of hardware. Seems it's mostly about the dicking with the bike  I have two bikes already and it's quite boring that they work now and there's no problems with them.quote:It also doesn't need 105. Tiagra is already finer than anything that was available in the 80s. Well I thought that if I want to go 1x front 11x rear I need a 11x system, and the Shimano 105 is the lowest system available for 11 gear rear deraileur. Claris and Tiagra are not 11s. MTB rear derailerus don't work with 105 shifters unless you get a wolf tooth tanpan. And that system looked a bit too fiddly. Road deraileurs don't work with 42-46t casettes... The Wiggly Wizard posted:Ok man just do it but post pictures and don’t expect everyone to cheer you on No one has been cheering at me, everyone so far has been saying it's a bad idea. It's just that I can't figure out what exactly would be a better option. I don't own a car, I don't pay for gas, I own my beautiful Soviet era concrete apartment and I don't pay rent or mortgage. So it's not like I'm using my last savings for this experiment  I'm not saying this is a good idea. But the idea doesn't sound completely terrible either and I'm interested in seeing if something like this works. Newer frames can be bought later, the old frame hopefully doesn't break the new parts! Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 18:34
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If he can afford it just let him do it? I'd love to build up a weird old bike with new parts. It's already gone 50 years without breaking, the steel isn't going to crack because ??? reasons. Center pull brakes use the same cable pull as anything that isn't a V-brake or a disc made to work with V-brake levers. It's pretty weird how upset people get when somebody wants something that isn't the current newest standard. It's not suddenly unrideable because it doesn't have through axles. Everybody gets like this when somebody doesn't want electronic shifting, too 
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Aug 20, 2022 18:35
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You could just get one of these or something https://konaworld.com/sutra.cfm
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Aug 20, 2022 19:49
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You already know what you want to do, why are you posting here?
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Aug 20, 2022 19:51
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Dog Case posted:If he can afford it just let him do it? I'd love to build up a weird old bike with new parts. Your gimmick sucks btw.
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Aug 20, 2022 19:52
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Dog Case posted:If he can afford it just let him do it? I'd love to build up a weird old bike with new parts. This. Genuinely amazed at the response to this cause if this were an old car or motorbike people would be thrilled at the pointless stupidity and novelty of it; I would do exactly the same thing if I had the money, albeit not with a Peugeot. Weird obsession with the latest and greatest.
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Aug 20, 2022 20:01
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unnecessarily hostile posts. let the goon build what they want.
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Aug 20, 2022 20:04
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That’s not it at all and some people obsession with bitching that maybe sometimes newer things from the past 50 years that aren’t poo poo to begin with is somehow elitist is weird as gently caress It’s a mediocre as hell frame and you could probably find a decent vintage steel frame to do a project on that people would be interested in
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Aug 20, 2022 20:06
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BraveUlysses posted:unnecessarily hostile posts. let the goon build what they want.
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Aug 20, 2022 20:07
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Pointing out potential pitfalls and downsides is generally a good idea though. Besides this isn't the first Peugeot frame with modern parts in this thread and it's never gone well. Maybe they can finally succeed. As someone who rides an 80s steel bike with modern parts, it's great but it is a ton of work to set up, and as mentioned before I would only spread the rear triangle of a bike made from good steel. It's got way better tensile strength than cheap gas pipe steel. It might not fail right away but it's only a matter of time.  Also rack related info, you can put a rack on anything with P clamps, or that Thule brand rack with ratchet straps.
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Aug 20, 2022 20:16
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Building an old car because it’s cool and fun and a weekend toy, cool and good Building an old car because you need transportation, idiotic e: yelling at clouds, but just buy a priority apollo https://www.prioritybicycles.com/products/priority-apollo e.pilot fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 20:17
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e.pilot posted:Building an old car because it’s cool and fun and a weekend toy, cool and good Ihmemies already said multiple times that they have multiple other bikes Edit: Like dude has multiple bikes. He's got tools and a work stand. He's fully aware of the weird French parts and his bike seems to only have one of them. He just wants a dumb project and knows what he's doing and everybody is like "but you could buy this new bike" Dog Case fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 20:22
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For 3 years my primary commuting bike was a BMX bike. It still would be but I got rid of the commute.
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Aug 20, 2022 20:33
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Dog Case posted:Ihmemies already said multiple times that they have multiple other bikes probably because he also wants to spend 1200+ on modern parts for it which gets into what many people find as a weird situation where you're spending a lot of money to put decent parts on something that's not very good. Ultimately, whatever, they'll do whatever project they think is interesting, and that's fine. I think if it was trying to fix up an old beater frame they got for cheap and just need it to be functional and cheap, people would be all for it. If they wanted to spend a bunch of money to revive a cool old vintage frame, people would be all for it. The kind of splitting the middle of that is what has people uncertain about the project. ultimately if it's just for funsies then do what you gonna do
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Aug 20, 2022 20:38
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Actually I wonder who here has the most expensive part on the cheapest overall bike. My best one is probably a $200 rear hub on a $300 complete bike.
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Aug 20, 2022 20:41
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Seems like there wouldn't be any harm in at least looking around a bit for a better frame before going all in on that one?
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Aug 20, 2022 20:42
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Slavvy posted:This. Genuinely amazed at the response to this cause if this were an old car or motorbike people would be thrilled at the pointless stupidity and novelty of it lol the cycleasylum hivemind is that carburetors, older than 5 years, and anything with less than thirteen riders modes, abs, trac, stability control, and a espresso machine is bad. Ihmemies posted:Isn't the geometry quite standard in these old bikes? At least the chainstay is long so I dont't bang the rear rack bags with my heels, hopefully.. I have a EU 48 / US 12?? size shoe so it's not the smallest. You can move the saddle forward and backwards, up and down. With quill stems you can easily adjust the height of the handlebar and with different lengths you can adjust the distance. Honestly I don't know anything about bike geometry, I've just been adjusting the handlebar situation. 1. No. Not even modern geometry is one size fits all. No idea on pedals, you'll need to trial and error that yourself. There's a lot more to geometry than making seatpost and stem adjustments. The frame itself dictates to how the bike handles, how well it rides, and how comfortable it will be for hour after hour. Being a cheap frame, its probably slack in handling, not designed around going super quick(at a 3kg frameset made from gas pipe that isn't happening unless its downhill anyway), and may be moderately comfortable. Given its heavy construction it will probably beat on you. 2. 1x10(or 2x10) with a wide ratio cassette and run cheap takeoffs. Get it running, then decide if its worth throwing good poo poo at it once you've racked some seat time on it. 3. by all means, build the bike. Then ride the gently caress out of it. 4. If you decide to go to a more modern frame the parts you hang on this bike may not transfer. The steerer/fork, bottom bracket/crank, v-brakes, and wheels come to mind. Sure some wheel hubs can be adapted. You may need to re-dish the rear. You're already this deep. Levitate posted:probably because he also wants to spend 1200+ on modern parts for it which gets into what many people find as a weird situation where you're spending a lot of money to put decent parts on something that's not very good. Ultimately, whatever, they'll do whatever project they think is interesting, and that's fine. I think if it was trying to fix up an old beater frame they got for cheap and just need it to be functional and cheap, people would be all for it. If they wanted to spend a bunch of money to revive a cool old vintage frame, people would be all for it. The kind of splitting the middle of that is what has people uncertain about the project. Ultimately this. But also I'm a goon that threw a bleeding edge modern turbo on a junk farmtruck that cost almost what the farm truck did. (I also daily it in that I live on it)
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Aug 20, 2022 20:44
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Salt Fish posted:Actually I wonder who here has the most expensive part on the cheapest overall bike. My best one is probably a $200 rear hub on a $300 complete bike. I have a Nexus 7 hub on a 90's MTB I got for $5 Unless you count tires cause those were $130 cursedshitbox posted:lol the cycleasylum hivemind is that carburetors, older than 5 years, and anything with less than thirteen riders modes, abs, trac, stability control, and a espresso machine is bad. The 'hivemind' is a bunch of middle aged computer touchers, you know my thoughts on that stuff pretty well. If I put efi and modem suspension on an old Norton or something they would love it though, nobody would tell me to just buy a 2022 t100. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 20:46
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Salt Fish posted:Actually I wonder who here has the most expensive part on the cheapest overall bike. My best one is probably a $200 rear hub on a $300 complete bike. I think i spent $180 on new wheels for a Langster i bought from the recycle center at the dump for $20 that was missing the rear wheel I swapped those wheels and a bunch of the gold anodized parts with the generic parts from a different bike i bought from a freight liquidation place and gave it to a friend.
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Aug 20, 2022 20:50
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vikingstrike posted:You already know what you want to do, why are you posting here? Why people want to talk with other people? I have no idea really. Levitate posted:That’s not it at all and some people obsession with bitching that maybe sometimes newer things from the past 50 years that aren’t poo poo to begin with is somehow elitist is weird as gently caress Problem with many frames with name brand steel like Reynolds, Tange Champion etc. is that they made racing bikes out of that stuff. Who made touring bikes? I have no idea where to search. It's racing bike after racing bike when I look for old frames. New frames start from like 1000€. Won't mediorce be enough? It's not like I'm welding disc brake holders to this or anything. marshalljim posted:Seems like there wouldn't be any harm in at least looking around a bit for a better frame before going all in on that one? No, of course it would make sense to try to find something better. I've been looking for a year for a frame and this is what I found. Maybe I'm just not very good at looking. cursedshitbox posted:lol the cycleasylum hivemind is that carburetors, older than 5 years, and anything with less than thirteen riders modes, abs, trac, stability control, and a espresso machine is bad. I drove two 90's Audis for nearly 2 decades and in the end they were not modern at all. They were slow and the bodies flexed and transmissions were slow and stuff.. still they were nice cars. quote:1. No. Not even modern geometry is one size fits all. No idea on pedals, you'll need to trial and error that yourself. There's a lot more to geometry than making seatpost and stem adjustments. The frame itself dictates to how the bike handles, how well it rides, and how comfortable it will be for hour after hour. Being a cheap frame, its probably slack in handling, not designed around going super quick(at a 3kg frameset made from gas pipe that isn't happening unless its downhill anyway), and may be moderately comfortable. Given its heavy construction it will probably beat on you. Thanks! quote:2. 1x10(or 2x10) with a wide ratio cassette and run cheap takeoffs. Get it running, then decide if its worth throwing good poo poo at it once you've racked some seat time on it. Some guy sells a kona with 3x9 Tiagras or something for 300€. It has rims and rim brakes and all that. I thought about buying it and transferring parts. quote:4. If you decide to go to a more modern frame the parts you hang on this bike may not transfer. The steerer/fork, bottom bracket/crank, v-brakes, and wheels come to mind. Sure some wheel hubs can be adapted. You may need to re-dish the rear. You're already this deep. The bike has a fork already, if I buy a stem setup which can utilize 31.8mm handlebars only the stem is "lost". Or if I buy a quill stem for threadless stems then only that little piece of metal is lost. BB will be lost, but it isn't that bad. Hollowtech 2 cranks will probably fit most bikes I want to buy. I'm using the old Mafac centerpulls because I think they might work OK with new kool-stop pads and adjustments. I dismantled and cleaned the brakes already. Actually I need to build new wheels for the bike. I've never done this but I'm ready to buy a park tool wheel stand, wheel alignment gauge and a knockoff spoke tensiometer. Wheelbuilding seems like a useful skill to have. The tools probably will last me for the rest of my life. I can then use them to make new wheels for my Nishiki road bike too. I could just put the Peugeot together with a new BB and some JIS cranks from the closet and sell it... but for some reason the frame looks quite beautiful. That's the #1 reason I am in this situation.. I think the Peugeot frame is beautiful 
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Aug 20, 2022 20:56
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^^ There's def something to be said for the classic steel frames, if I had one like that I'd probably build it up as a single speed for running into town, but I'm also in one of the flattest parts of the world Wheel building is one of those skills that's great to have if you're really good at it and a complete waste of time if you're not particularly good at it - it's fun to make a wheelset up out of parts, but when it comes to things like retruing wheels you're not doing it enough to do it well in any reasonable amount of time and so taking it to a shop is just a heavily reduced hassle all round (this is from personal experience). 100% build a wheel set, 0% have expectations beyond that 
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Aug 20, 2022 21:02
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Vando posted:Also Claris and Tektro parts are not 'garbage', they're not top tier but they're a million miles ahead of anything contemporary to a multi-decade old steel frame. Tiagra is new the "top tier" of mechanical groups!
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Aug 20, 2022 21:45
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Yeah no, last ice age shaped the country here too much, I don't want a single speed anymore. Anyways do you guys have any experience in straightening out kinks in metal? This site basically says you need an appropriate hammer and then some counterpart behind the metal. Then you hammer at 100 strikes a minute until the shape is what you want: https://www.machinemfg.com/straightening-process-for-sheet-metal-parts/ Artur Tussik does so in youtube too, but mostly with flat objects. I found an small anvil from my storage, maybe a small hammer with a slightly convex head and hammer against the anvil from the underside?  
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Aug 20, 2022 21:56
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Putting expensive stuff on cheap stuff is OK if you're not really depending on the cheap stuff to do something useful. In this case, if you have a couple of perfectly fine bikes and you grab a crappy old steel frame that's still in good shape (assuming that one is), I totally understand throwing excellent parts on it. To wit, check out this beast from one of my other hobbies: That thing started life as my LRB (Living Room Bass), a short-scale, five-pound-soaking-wet thing that I can noodle on while sitting on the couch. At the time, it was the cheapest bass offered by Squier, maker of entry-level, Fender-licensed instruments. It's like if a major high-end bicycle manufacturer owned another brand of more affordable versions of their bikes. Brand new, I think I paid less than $150 for this little guy. When the pandemic hit, I gathered some parts: a new bridge here, some new electronics there, and since the stock pickup is the middle pickup from an Affinity Strat (the cheap, cheap, cheapest version of Stratocaster you can get), I got a DiMarzio Pro Track, which is a humbucker that has the same size and shape as a Strat single coil. As a bonus, it came with three covers, and one of them was red. The result is a bass that makes everyone laugh when they see it because it looks so cheap. And when pop the tone knob up, plug it in, and start playing, it sounds kind-of like it used to... until I pop the tone knob in. Then, it pushes out a wall of amazing tone, to the point where people think I must be using a ton of effects or faking it somehow. It's one of the best sounding basses I have. Now, I didn't pour $1K into this thing, but I did spend more than I spent on the instrument itself. I say, build it however you want. If the frame craps out, well, you still have all those new parts. It's not like there's a shortage of old steel frames on there waiting for some new parts, right? (Kind-of serious question; I have no idea. I haven't built a bike since I was a kid cobbling together BMXers out of the spare parts every kid in my town seemed to have.)
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Aug 20, 2022 21:58
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Salt Fish posted:For 3 years my primary commuting bike was a BMX bike. It still would be but I got rid of the commute. I found.a video of your commute, pretty sick https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Z1vTL0h66M
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Aug 20, 2022 22:13
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Ihmemies posted:Yeah no, last ice age shaped the country here too much, I don't want a single speed anymore. Small hammer from the back. Don't do it on a hard surface that will mar the outside. A lot of hand shaping sheet metal is done on a leather sandbag. Tiny taps and being gentle. Does your bike have a model number stamped on the bottom bracket shell? Also what size tires/are the rims steel or aluminum? I've been trying to figure out what exactly it is. The factory racks, fenders and lights make me think it's actually one of their nicer bikes
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Aug 20, 2022 22:34
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Ihmemies posted:Problem with many frames with name brand steel like Reynolds, Tange Champion etc. is that they made racing bikes out of that stuff. Who made touring bikes? I have no idea where to search. It's racing bike after racing bike when I look for old frames. They also made touring frames out of the same steel. I have 5 different steel bikes, and they all feel a little different. Part of that is geometry, and part of that is the steel itself. You can find a TON of 80s and 90s steel frames for very cheap. Looks like maybe your bike is a 1977-78 UO10? Definitely made from high tensile steel, rather than cromoly. I believe Peugeot abandoned that type of steel in the early 80s for Vitus then Reynolds in the late 80s. https://www.bikeboompeugeot.com/Brochures%20USA/Peugeot%201978%20USA%20Brochure/Peugeot%201978%20USA%20Brochure.htm Edit: Nevermind, its almost certainly a J8 https://www.bikeboompeugeot.com/Brochures%20Germany/Peugeot%201978%20Germany%20Brochures/Peugeot%201978%20Germany%20Brochures.htm FredLordofCheese fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 22:36
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Dog Case posted:Small hammer from the back. Don't do it on a hard surface that will mar the outside. A lot of hand shaping sheet metal is done on a leather sandbag. Tiny taps and being gentle. Thanks. I'll try it against something softer then. BB has no info. Left rear dropout has this:  Steel rims, 25mm exterior 17mm interior width, 622mm. I don't know about nice, most likely not   FredLordofCheese posted:Looks like maybe your bike is a 1977-78 UO10? Definitely made from high tensile steel, rather than cromoly. I believe Peugeot abandoned that type of steel in the early 80s for Vitus then Reynolds in the late 80s. What do those mean, high tensile, chromoly? Like in practice. Edit: https://www.livestrong.com/article/405422-types-of-steel-bicycle-frames/ High-Tensile High-tensile steel, or hi-ten as it is often abbreviated, is the most inexpensive type of steel used in bike frames. It contains few alloys, which are additional metals that improve its strength-to-weight ratio, and is the weakest of all the types of steel used in bike frames. Hi-ten also is the heaviest steel used in bike frames. You will typically find hi-ten steel on older road and mountain bikes as well as low-priced cruiser and children's bikes. Cro-Moly Cro-moly is an form of steel that is alloyed with chromium and molybdenum. The addition of these two metals make cro-moly steel lighter and stronger than regular steel. This allows bike manufacturers to make thinner frame tubes and reduce weight, while preserving quality. Cro-moly is used in a variety of bikes and is the second most expensive steel frame material. Most high-production bikes over a few hundred dollars use cro-moly steel in their frames. My Nishiki has a sticker where it reads chromium-molybdenium steel. So a bike made from such steel would be better.. Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Aug 20, 2022 |
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Aug 20, 2022 23:51
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Ihmemies posted:
Basically yes, high tensile, or hi-ten sometimes, is what a lot of mass produced bikes are made of. It is very brittle compared to other mixed alloy steels and is also going to be a harsher ride. There is also carbon manganese steel, sort of in between hi-ten and cromo. Sometimes the steel is the same alloy, but the methods to weld or cool it differ. Cromo, or similar steels can be cold pressed to spread the rear triangle to accept a modern hub. You can still bend hi-ten steel but it loses structural stability on a larger scale than cromo can. It might seem fine but could fail on you right at the bottom bracket, or on the drop outs. The Nishiki is definitely made from a better steel. Japanese bikes did very well in the 80s because they were lighter, faster, and stronger due to their higher quality steel. If you can find a Bridgestone CB, MB, or XO bike it would hit all of your needs and be a better ride.
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Aug 21, 2022 01:31
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Makes sense. Kuwahara and Panasonic made nice frames too. Maybe they made some with longer chainstay too? I'm interested in a 1x11 drivetrain with a 11-42 or 11-46 or 11-50t 11spd casette. But I can't get my head over the chainline measurements. The front chainring should be in the middle of the rear casette. But how far the front chainring should be from the middle of BB.. I understood shimano road and mtb casettes fit to same HG freehub. https://kstoerz.com/freespoke/hub/607 So I could put a Shimano 105 hub with 130mm OLD to rear. And use a VO single ring crankset with n/w chainring: https://velo-orange.com/products/single-ring-crankset-w-nw-ring It has a 42mm chainline with 110mm bb. Is the chainline correct with a 130mm wide 11spd hub? Or do I need a shorter/longer spindle BB? Hnghhh Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Aug 21, 2022 |
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Aug 21, 2022 01:46
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