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Javid posted:You remind me that I'm curious about the smaller nozzles, though. I wanna print D&D minis, which 0.1mm layer height is juuuuuust barely enough for. Has anyone accomplished anything with a smaller nozzle or are they utterly a fool's errand? You can print some pretty cool tiny things with a surprising amount of detail, the issue is the layer lines, which you'll never be happy with. I got addicted to these little car models. If I had an airbrush I'm sure they'll come up great.  Anything with a curvature to it will have pretty obvious lines. If you're really into minis you're probably better off investing in a resin printer.
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Aug 23, 2022 11:01
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NOPE I am completely uninterested in dealing with liquid chemicals in the manner a resin printer requires, seeing what I can wring out of my ender is much more interesting to me What's your nozzle size/layer height? I feel like anything under 0.1mm is going to be obliterated by paint, anyway (which is necessary for minis regardless)
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Aug 23, 2022 11:07
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Javid posted:NOPE I am completely uninterested in dealing with liquid chemicals in the manner a resin printer requires, seeing what I can wring out of my ender is much more interesting to me Yeah. As someone who has been FDM printing for the past year and has just got a resin printer within the last week - the resin / biohazard stuff is pretty bad. I can manage the exposure pretty well, but the amount of waste generated in paper towels and gloves is ridiculous, as is the requirement to cure everything before I bin it. For me I did alot of printing with a .2 nozzle typically with a .15 or .1 layer height. I didn't have the adaptive layer height options when I last tried it though.
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Aug 23, 2022 11:38
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Javid posted:NOPE I am completely uninterested in dealing with liquid chemicals in the manner a resin printer requires, seeing what I can wring out of my ender is much more interesting to me .1 is a rare and difficult to work with nozzle and I don't think anyone makes anything smaller anyway. .2 is pretty much the standard for tiny fdm prints, and with arachne you can get pretty good results. You're going to want a direct drive setup with a well tuned, geared extruder. Also, you're gonna fight heat creep. Here's a CNC Kitchen vid on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngpw0ojHODA e: also re: paint, yes and no. you'd be surprised how layer lines can pop outta nowhere on what looks like a flat surface when you start drybrushing. you should still sand a bit before you prime. Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Aug 23, 2022 |
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Aug 23, 2022 16:06
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Good quality filament is critical with tiny orifices too--not only is the material cost difference insignificant at the size of models you'll be wanting but you're much less likely to get clogged nozzles with a good brand. And forget about CF/GF/wood filled, maybe even "silk" as they are almost certain to clog repeatedly.
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Aug 23, 2022 18:12
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ive even been having issues with matte filament for some reason, just straight up normal poo poo seems the best. i jsut fired up my resin printer for the first time for a test print on a sweet snake dude, cant wait to see if it works!
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Aug 23, 2022 20:30
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Javid posted:You remind me that I'm curious about the smaller nozzles, though. I wanna print D&D minis, which 0.1mm layer height is juuuuuust barely enough for. Has anyone accomplished anything with a smaller nozzle or are they utterly a fool's errand? 3D Printers: small-nozzle-curious
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Aug 23, 2022 20:35
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BOUNCY BOUNCY BOUNCY It's all here - printer box, UPS gouged a hole clean through to the foam insert at some point, but nothing is obviously damaged. And the filament hits the postal scale (still in the spool box) at 3 pounds, 2 pounds 11.7 oz without box. Gotta get some resealable bags for the PLA+, plus extra dessicant. (I'm assuming my nice slider-seal Ziplocs won't be good?) 4.5 hours to get home, sigh.
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Aug 23, 2022 21:11
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Ygolonac posted:Gotta get some resealable bags for the PLA+, plus extra dessicant. (I'm assuming my nice slider-seal Ziplocs won't be good?) We got this printer at work in like 2018, maybe 2017. COVID happened in 2019, I went in to check on stuff a couple months ago (2022), found a couple spools of PLA that we'd just stored in cardboard boxes, just open air. Still prints just fine. Sometimes living in the desert is cool.
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Aug 23, 2022 21:14
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Ygolonac posted:BOUNCY BOUNCY BOUNCY Off-Brand ziplocs are perfectly fine. I agree with the above, in most settings a cardboard box is fine. But some stuff (woodfilled for example) you don't want to just keep in a Box, so Ziplocs it is. Also keeps dust and cat hair out of filament, which is nice.
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Aug 23, 2022 21:21
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GST3D has a 10% off coupon, good until Thursday, and as I think I mentioned a few days ago they're now distributing their filament through https://www.fremover.net A random color 10-pack is $10.99 per roll, and then with the coupon it comes out to $98.91 with free shipping. Code is: FREMOVERSALE https://fremover.net/collections/filament-mega-packs/products/pack-x10-pla In case anyone has concerns, I promise I'm not a shill for these discounted filament companies and these aren't covert affiliate links or codes or anything. Just sharing what they send out to their mailing lists. I know, that's exactly what a shill would say
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Aug 23, 2022 21:35
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Has anyone had issues with prusa mk3s, prusaslicer, and or very full build plates? Here's what i sliced:  And here's what I got:   I'm going to let it run to salvage what I can, but wtf m8? My first thought is to check the tension and general motion on the x axis once this print finishes. Edit note: The Y axis did not cut off the same way, the lowest row is fine vertically. Deviant fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Aug 23, 2022 |
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Aug 23, 2022 22:10
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You could also try printing minis with ABS and smoothing them in an acetone vapor chamber. Mine is just a mason jar with a suspended platform above paper towels I add a little acetone to. I leave the model in for a few hours and then lift it out and let it dry in the platform for a few days This gets rid of most layer lines but you can lose fine details. Gotta play around and experiment with it. I used it to make replicas of relatives' dogs, cats, and one goat which I painted and gave as gifts. These were a maximum of an inch and a half tall or so. Most pets don't have a bunch of greebles or armor and weapons and such so this might not be a viable route to go. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Aug 23, 2022 |
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Aug 23, 2022 22:25
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Maybe *your* pets. <pats Astartes Hedghogicus very carefully>
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Aug 23, 2022 22:33
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There's a weird double white line that seems to line up with the cut off There should only be one thick white line on the perimeter. My guess is your build plate parameters are hosed up or the build plate image you're using is weird 
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Aug 23, 2022 22:34
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Hadlock posted:There's a weird double white line that seems to line up with the cut off I think that's just what the mk3 bed looks like in prusaslicer 
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Aug 23, 2022 22:50
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mewse posted:I think that's just what the mk3 bed looks like in prusaslicer Yeah, this is a standard, uncustomized mk3s profile (in terms of bed size), still listed at 250x210 Also the left is being cut off, not the bottom, as i stated, so I don't know what double white line you mean. I suspect it's a minor discrepancy between Prusaslicer and Marlin that only comes up on very full beds, because all the non cut off prints are perfect, making me think the hardware is in good shape.
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Aug 23, 2022 22:58
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Followup photo, note that all the aspect ratios are great, which I'd expect to go squirrley in a mechanical issue.
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Aug 23, 2022 23:07
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Deviant posted:Followup photo, note that all the aspect ratios are great, which I'd expect to go squirrley in a mechanical issue. I suspect the .gcode file probably shows the cut off left side if you load it in prusaslicer's bundled gcode viewer but then the question becomes at what point in the slicing process is that side getting cut off
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Aug 23, 2022 23:15
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Deviant posted:Followup photo, note that all the aspect ratios are great, which I'd expect to go squirrley in a mechanical issue. This looks like your printer isn't centering correctly. The whole print is shifted over and down a bit, the bottom of the print is also going past the bottom line of the safe area of the printer, when in the preview it wasn't.
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Aug 23, 2022 23:16
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It looks like the whole print is farther left than it should be
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Aug 23, 2022 23:23
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Yes, but why? The gcode viewer shows it correctly:  So the problem is somewhere between the gcode and the nozzle. I have to do a bunch of these, so I may just recalibrate the entire printer and belt test the x-axis after this plate. Edit: From the diagnostics in support (current print, pre recalibrate): Y Distance from Min- Left: 11.31mm Right: 11.39mm [0;0] point offset: X: -5.92mm (This seems odd. I suspect if i measure a cut off ring, it'll be 5.92mm too small) Y: 0.81mm (I bet you that lower line that's just over the safety line is .81mm over) Belt Status: X: 244 Y: 267 So my offset may be janky, and my X belt is a tad loose. I'll see if those values survive a recalibrate. Deviant fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Aug 23, 2022 |
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Aug 23, 2022 23:28
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Doesn't the Prusa find X, Y, and Z zero before starting any print? How could the offset be wrong? I mean, maybe I'm fundamentally misunderstanding this, but I was under the impression that the Ender 3 I know about was a Reprap design just like the Prusa, and so it should find 0 for X, Y, and Z at the start of every print... e: oh, belt tension would make sense.
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Aug 24, 2022 00:16
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Nerobro posted:
That’s not really what that line is supposed to mean. It means if you find something you love doing, you won’t find it to be ‘work’ because you have so much fun doing it. It says nothing about actually making a living wage, etc. Although you are right - it doesn’t necessarily follow you should turn hobbies into jobs. It should be something you have real passion for, not just think is cool. Also, even dream jobs get annoying at times. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Aug 24, 2022 |
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Aug 24, 2022 00:17
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cruft posted:Doesn't the Prusa find X, Y, and Z zero before starting any print? How could the offset be wrong? Yeah I'm also going to check and make sure nothing is binding and loving up the 0,0 home . And a recalibrate shouldn't *hurt* either way
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Aug 24, 2022 00:33
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Deviant posted:So the problem is somewhere between the gcode and the nozzle. Now I'm wondering if I'm totally wrong because I can't figure out a way how you would create faulty x-values. I'm pretty sure you didn't get the "toolpath/object outside of the print area" error, found a way to override it and didn't mention that. X-Offset(s) seems like a good idea to start. Not sure why it would have anything to do with your belt? Otherwise the filament that isn't there would be somewhere else, right? So I figured it ignored the parts below a certain x-value. Definitely a cool mystery because I wrote down a theory, thought about it a bit, then deleted it because I wasn't sure it could even cause this behavior. Multiple times. The firmware one remains, because otherwise this post would be pretty empty. Excited for the solution!
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Aug 24, 2022 02:50
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Can I print these trees using an FDM 3D printer or do I need to use a resin/SLA printer? https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-pixel-trees-174976
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Aug 24, 2022 05:06
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RabbitWizard posted:If I had to take a guess it's the firmware protecting the printer. So, I got a toolpath error when i had the skirt turned on, so i obviously shut that off. the file sliced without any warnings, and i'll give you a 3mf to prove it in the morning. Every single google i've found for this is someone having an identical issue on the left side with no solution except to build smaller, which is why i suspect it's an issue between marlin and the prusaslicer/slic3r core. I think the mk3s may just get a tad goofy when you go full plate with left side. I'd love to be proven wrong though. I'll be recalibrating the printer tomorrow to see. I did a tweak, and my x-tension is low, but consistent so I don't think it's skipping or acting weird. And every single coin on the left of the plate was identical, so I don't think it's an intermittent mech issue like a loose belt might explain. I'd expect that to act weird all over the plate. I admit I'm pushing the build plate to its absolute limit, and if the answer is "lmao their size rating is more like dealer mpg" i can live with that. Deviant fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Aug 24, 2022 |
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Aug 24, 2022 06:06
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Doctor Zero posted:
They say the price of doing something for a living is getting intimate with its ugly side. That can ruin a thing for some people. Like, maybe don't become a vet or vet tech because you love animals. Because you're going to see them in distress a lot and can't always do anything about it  Or become a game tester because you love games. You think it'll be "play these and tell us if you think they are fun" but it's more "see if clicking this button 1000 times still breaks anything, and fill out the report form in a very specific certain way or else the dev lead will get mega pissy again"
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Aug 24, 2022 06:12
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Doctor Zero posted:Although you are right - it doesn’t necessarily follow you should turn hobbies into jobs. It should be something you have real passion for, not just think is cool. I have like $800 worth of custom go kart parts sitting in some guy's garage because his natural gas fabrication day job takes precedence. I know another guy who has been waiting for his parts since April Guy is starting to get a lot of heat from the community because orders are stacking up like crazy as he's The Guy to get parts from. He started off raising his prices about 30% and finally shut down his store because he wasn't getting stuff out the door in a reasonable amount of time. After 47 days he finally shipped my order
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Aug 24, 2022 06:14
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Can I print these trees using an FDM 3D printer or do I need to use a resin/SLA printer? You could print these on an FDM, sure. You'll have to use plenty of supports, especially because all the right angles from the cubes. You'd probably be best off printing at a 45 degree angle to minimise overhangs.
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Aug 24, 2022 10:30
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Deviant posted:So, I got a toolpath error when i had the skirt turned on, so i obviously shut that off. the file sliced without any warnings, and i'll give you a 3mf to prove it in the morning. Deviant posted:Every single google i've found for this is someone having an identical issue on the left side with no solution Btw, was that theory correct? Deviant posted:X: -5.92mm (This seems odd. I suspect if i measure a cut off ring, it'll be 5.92mm too small)
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Aug 24, 2022 12:09
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I have noticed if I "fill bed with instances" and then slice I always get a toolpath error on the left side. I just figured it was my model dimensions and their layout generator. Edit: I'm still dialing in top surfaces, but need to know if I'm being too picky. I'm annoyed at the corner gaps on the bottom and right edges. I have the Extrusion multiplier very close to just right, so the surface texture is great, and even the nozzle raise at the top left corner is extremely small. But I feel like the Flow may not be quite right near the edges? 
Vaporware fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Aug 24, 2022 |
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Aug 24, 2022 13:27
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The Eyes Have It posted:They say the price of doing something for a living is getting intimate with its ugly side. That can ruin a thing for some people. This is good advice, and I'll add that to make money for a thing, you typically have to give up some or all of your vision. People are giving you money to fulfill *their* vision, and unless your vision is "fulfill other peoples' vision" then this is going to feel like you aren't being true to your artistic self. This is essentially the advice I got from the entire college of music staff, when I told my professors I was changing my major to math. It seemed like something that would have been useful to know before I enrolled, but I guess they have to make money somehow too.
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Aug 24, 2022 14:21
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Vaporware posted:But I feel like the Flow may not be quite right near the edges? I dunno what you're seeing or what problem you're trying to solve, but I don't think you could tune that any better. The next step would be tuning linear advance until the corners are perfect, but even there it wouldn't be a huge improvement. I honestly don't see a problem with the edges, can you be more specific about your concern?
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Aug 24, 2022 15:10
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Deviant posted:Every single google i've found for this is someone having an identical issue on the left side with no solution except to build smaller, which is why i suspect it's an issue between marlin and the prusaslicer/slic3r core. I think the mk3s may just get a tad goofy when you go full plate with left side. I'd love to be proven wrong though. I'll be recalibrating the printer tomorrow to see. I think you found the problem but not the root cause: quote:[0;0] point offset: I was going to go into my mk3s clone's LCD menu and compare your value to mine but I forgot. When I built my clone I used igus bearings at first, and it caused binding on the X axis, and it would fail the x-axis self test. I suspect something similar is happening with your printer where the "sensorless homing" is screwing up on the x axis and causing that offset for the 0,0 point, a successful XYZ calibration should fix it.
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Aug 24, 2022 15:45
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(╯°□°）╯︵ ┻━┻ the loving zip ties on the hotend bundle were twisted such that they'd hit the board housing and keep it from hitting a proper 0,0. Offsets are down to 0.63mm in both directions. 
Deviant fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Aug 24, 2022 |
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Aug 24, 2022 16:46
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I do seem to remember something in the assembly manual about being careful of that, least exactly what you describe happen. It's a credit to the printer that it handled that so gracefully, really.
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Aug 24, 2022 17:09
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I think I had the same problem at some point, lol Mine was bad because the zip tie was hitting a few centimeters up, so all my prints were shifting mid-print instead of at the beginning
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Aug 24, 2022 17:12
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:I dunno what you're seeing or what problem you're trying to solve, but I don't think you could tune that any better. The next step would be tuning linear advance until the corners are perfect, but even there it wouldn't be a huge improvement. I honestly don't see a problem with the edges, can you be more specific about your concern? Mostly the gaps along the bottom edge and right edge where the surface is supposed to squish into the perimeter. It's pushing slightly too little flow as it puts down the top surface to the center diagonal, so the top surface isn't fully engaged on half the perimeter. Then after the midpoint it's slightly too much /just right flow so that the left and top edges of the surface are connected to the perimeter. Like I said, just trying to figure out if I need to stop here. I've been slightly under extruding on top surfaces on other longer prints but nothing that would fail the print.
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Aug 24, 2022 17:47
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