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Eediot Jedi posted:Spending the time dialling in your exposure time is very solid advice. The mars pro was an RGB screen (three layers of red/green/blue the UV light needs to penetrate) while the saturn 2 will have a monochrome screen (only one layer to penetrate), the saturn will need significantly less exposure times. It will vary depending on resin but ~2-3s exposure is pretty common for standard resins on a monochrome, going up longer if you add flexible resins. 15 seconds on a monochrome will cook the layer beyond recognition. I have an Anycubic Photon Mono and my settings are 40 second exposures for the first few layers, then 2 second exposures for the rest, and I've only had three failures - once because I forgot to screw down the print bed on the arm until like a third of the way through so there was a weird offset, once because I screwed up the supports and I think made them too thin, and once because the FEP was worn out.
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Aug 23, 2022 13:26
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Eediot Jedi posted:Spending the time dialling in your exposure time is very solid advice. The mars pro was an RGB screen (three layers of red/green/blue the UV light needs to penetrate) while the saturn 2 will have a monochrome screen (only one layer to penetrate), the saturn will need significantly less exposure times. It will vary depending on resin but ~2-3s exposure is pretty common for standard resins on a monochrome, going up longer if you add flexible resins. 15 seconds on a monochrome will cook the layer beyond recognition. /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ This guy get it. So does this guy. It was the video that got me printing again as I could get full plates over and over without having to clean my tank and reset everything after every print. \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOjB3Fr-0no You may find or like another source, but this guy is clear and comprehensible and let me get on with printing.
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Aug 23, 2022 15:11
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The other 2 big problems with Elegoo printers are the default software (Chitubox) and their tank design. The software is easy to fix, download and install the free version of Lychee Slicer and love life. The tank is actually well designed except that it's intended for the FEP to be slack when you install it into the inside frame (it gets a lot tighter when you install the frame to the rest of the tank). And no one seems to know how slack is correct. I made a little jig out of a stack of foamcore from the factory installation, but I'm not sure if FEP stretches so my measurements are probably not that accurate since I took them after a ton of prints had been done on it. the good news is I suspect that there is a lot of leeway, since I've had mostly good luck with prints after replacing the FEP, but I always wonder if people who complain about an entire pack of FEP film leaking are just installing way too tight. Furthermore I think having perfect tension in your FEP layer would allow you to make smaller supports that are easier to remove. At any rate I love my Mars 2 pro and would recommend Elegoo printers to anyone. also, in response to people wondering if GW needs to respond to the availability of Resin printers, I have 2 points: Resin printers are far closer to hobby toy than appliance in terms of needing fiddling and troubleshooting, and the current crop of GW miniatures are all expensive and mono-pose, but are characterful, well detailed, and really easy to assemble and paint.
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Aug 23, 2022 16:46
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Jonny Nox posted:The other 2 big problems with Elegoo printers are the default software (Chitubox) and their tank design. I'm still on Chitubox and having no issues. What makes Lychee better? The tank issue is known. Even the Elegoo Official Youtube says use a spacer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsokPTRLXss From the comments: "About how many cards from a standard deck of playing cards will work in place of "a sponge"? Edit: 32 cards from a standard playing deck is what I used and it was perfect." Truly 3D printing is an art and a science. 
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Aug 23, 2022 17:24
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Thanks for all the tips, I really appreciate it. To start with I am going to be printing mostly some hex tiles from the Hexton Hills campaign map set and some various scatter terrain. Stuff that is simple, not too tall, and quick to print. I am hoping that allows me to zero in on some good settings while minimizing the resin waste. If I want to print some larger terrain stuff should I also pick up an FDM printer or will having just the resin one be sufficient? I don't know how many large buildings I would print, probably only a few.
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Aug 23, 2022 17:42
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Indolent Bastard posted:I'm still on Chitubox and having no issues. What makes Lychee better? It's mostly workflow stuff. Note that I haven't touched Chitubox in years, but Lychee will flag STLs with flipped surfaces and holes (and sometimes can even fix them), has a decent (it works for me at least) auto-rotation and auto-support setup, really really good island detection, and I like the hollowing process. It tries to use the cloud for printer setup, but honestly I always tweak it anyways, but it does allow you to setup different settings for resin type and color. If Chitubox works I'm happy, but the last time I used it I think I had to place my own supports and I never knew if I was putting them in the right spot or the right size. I also trust Lychee more to flag potential problems that Chitubox just didn't seem to see.
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Aug 23, 2022 18:22
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There's a thread with a ton more details for 3d printing. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3973815&pagenumber=198&perpage=40 Two things that have caught my eye in the last page or so were; printing terrain, probably better on FDM if its large pieces, and someone mentioned tying in an exhaust vent to existing exhausts, be very careful with that and only if you know exactly what you're doing. Back pressure is bad.
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Aug 23, 2022 19:15
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Brother apothecary, hear me; my power pack has been destroyed and my armor has become dispossessed of its spirit. I'm grievously wounded, and request immediate extraction. I have data that will turn the tide of this battle.  After this was taken I added some grenades to his right side. I wanted to add a little computer but apparently I used that bit for something else 
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Aug 24, 2022 00:03
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I know the post was from a few pages back from seconding the "Buy Tertials" idea. Picture of my painting desk, which was also from Ikea and works excellently. Usually my paint cup sits perfectly in one of the cup holders but its out of commission at the moment. Working on getting paint racks to clear up 90% of the clutter! There's some on Green Stuff World that will do the trick. Does anyone know why this lady is so drat shiny?  I varnished her with Liquitex BASICS Matte Varnish, which worked fine on other minis, but for some reason she got extra shiny? Bits of her with previously hit with a wash, which in my experience tends to be shiny, but not all of her. I have rattle cans of matte varnish but I'll need to wait a month or more before Tokyo's humidity drops to a paint where that wouldn't wreck the mini.
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Aug 24, 2022 00:06
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I made some progress on the plaguebearer  After everything is primed and painted I'll add the epoxy slime which will cover a good chunk of the base. So stuff like the weapon will look like it's resting in a fetid pool of slime instead of just sitting there. I tried sculpting some flowers for the base as well, hopefully they'll be good enough to actually use. If like the blooming flowers to match the color of the plaguebearers eye 
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Aug 24, 2022 00:21
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Wrr posted:Does anyone know why this lady is so drat shiny? Did you go really heavy on the varnish? Even matte varnish will go glossy if the coat is too thick.
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Aug 24, 2022 00:24
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I've been working on a second Redemptor Dread for my Deathwatch since around the beginning of the month, putting an hour or so every few days into it and I finished it up this morning:     I named him "Murdermane" 
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Aug 24, 2022 00:58
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Hell yeah that fuckin rules
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Aug 24, 2022 01:06
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Did you go really heavy on the varnish? Even matte varnish will go glossy if the coat is too thick. Maybe? Its a brush on varnish so its a bit hard to control. Is there a way to cut down on the gloss at this point?
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Aug 24, 2022 01:25
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A few light passes with Dullcote/Rust-Oleum Dead Flat will fix it
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Aug 24, 2022 01:34
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Wrr posted:Maybe? Its a brush on varnish so its a bit hard to control. Is there a way to cut down on the gloss at this point? That was probably it. It's very tough to get a thin coat with brush on matte varnishes, I've never had much luck myself. I always go with a rattle can or airbrush for matte coats.
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Aug 24, 2022 01:57
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AndyElusive posted:I've been working on a second Redemptor Dread for my Deathwatch since around the beginning of the month, putting an hour or so every few days into it and I finished it up this morning: Good lord this is fantastic.
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Aug 24, 2022 02:03
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AndyElusive posted:I've been working on a second Redemptor Dread for my Deathwatch since around the beginning of the month, putting an hour or so every few days into it and I finished it up this morning: loving awesome! The cats pajamas. The bees knees. The eels tits. And so on.
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Aug 24, 2022 02:06
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WIP kill team octarius terrain. My first attempt at rusted metal and i would appreciate any criticism.
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Aug 24, 2022 03:36
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My Spirit Otter posted:WIP kill team octarius terrain. My first attempt at rusted metal and i would appreciate any criticism. I like it! Nice mix of metals. My two thoughts: These are orky barricades, and they love gaudy colors. You can just paint these bright colors, and then rust those up to show they're still falling apart. Also, it's very clean for being rusty and ruined. Dirty it up with some drybrushing and stipling browns and tans, focusing more heavily on the lower half and at the bottom. Or, buy/make some weathering powders and try those out. But the actual painting is nice 
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Aug 24, 2022 04:14
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My Spirit Otter posted:WIP kill team octarius terrain. My first attempt at rusted metal and i would appreciate any criticism. I'm not a fan of yellow bulbs, but that is a personal taste thing. What were the steps that you used to get this result so far?
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Aug 24, 2022 12:36
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Im not sold on the bulbs either, but unsure of what to really do with them. I was considering party style lights but i dont have any colours i think would suit them. I started by dry brushing runelord brass, then added small amounts of typhus corrosion. Then heavily drybrushed verminlord hide. After that dry brushed on ironbreaker or iron warrior, whichever is the darker one.
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Aug 24, 2022 16:32
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are you all using sponges on your wet palettes? I'm just using a 3D printed rando one I found on Thingiverse, a triple-folded paper towel, and basic no-name kitchen parchment paper. What am I missing out on?
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Aug 24, 2022 17:07
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The sponge holds water a little more evenly
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Aug 24, 2022 17:29
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I bought a nice fat blue sponge for $2, works great It had a scuffing side so I just put that side facing down
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Aug 24, 2022 19:25
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Jonny Nox posted:What am I missing out on? Having the brand name of the hobby supply company that made your wet palette embossed on the lid.
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Aug 24, 2022 19:50
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Wrr posted:Does anyone know why this lady is so drat shiny? Not being dick here but take a look at your bottle just in case cause here's the label on mine:  Bloody Hedgehog posted:Did you go really heavy on the varnish? Even matte varnish will go glossy if the coat is too thick. I slather matte varnish on and I've never had this happen nor heard of it happening.
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Aug 24, 2022 21:07
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Wrr posted:Does anyone know why this lady is so drat shiny? Matte varnish is gloss varnish with a matting agent suspended in it. If the varnish starts to settle, you'll get a patchy gloss coat instead of a nice matte. I use liquitex too and this is definitely an issue I've bumped into with them. Try adding a couple of agitator beads to your bottle or, if you don't have any, just shake the hell out of your varnish for a few minutes and see if that helps.
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Aug 24, 2022 21:12
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someone bought me the red grass gaming wet palette and while i don’t necessarily recommend spending the money on one, it is a lot nicer than takeout carton, paper towels, and baking paper
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Aug 24, 2022 21:20
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Are Citadel inks still a thing? I remember the black ink working miracles on my shoddy armour about 20 years ago. If not, is there anything similar or has little lead men painting evolved beyond that?
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Aug 24, 2022 21:22
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Gambrinus posted:Are Citadel inks still a thing? I remember the black ink working miracles on my shoddy armour about 20 years ago.
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Aug 24, 2022 21:22
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Jonny Nox posted:are you all using sponges on your wet palettes? Army painter sells 2x foam pads and an assload of parchment paper for like 10 bucks. The foam sponges are pretty dope and i dont know why youd ever need to replace one. Cat Face Joe posted:Not being dick here but take a look at your bottle just in case cause here's the label on mine: 
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Aug 24, 2022 21:40
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Gambrinus posted:Are Citadel inks still a thing? I remember the black ink working miracles on my shoddy armour about 20 years ago. Citadel Shades is probably what you're looking for! an acrylic wash that flows to the recesses of what you're painting. Nuln oil is the one that's black but there's 26 or so colors now.
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Aug 24, 2022 21:41
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My Spirit Otter posted:Army painter sells 2x foam pads and an assload of parchment paper for like 10 bucks. You replace them when your kid spills paint on them and just closes the lid instead of rising it out.
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Aug 24, 2022 21:42
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Lumpy posted:You replace them when your kid spills paint on them and just closes the lid instead of rising it out. That makes complete sense
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Aug 24, 2022 21:47
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Cat Face Joe posted:Not being dick here but take a look at your bottle just in case cause here's the label on mine: I understand the need to double check but it do be matte! I finished 10+~ other minis and she is the only one this happened too.
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Aug 24, 2022 23:14
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Wrr posted:I finished 10+~ other minis and she is the only one this happened too. Was she the first one you did?
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Aug 24, 2022 23:17
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wet palettes cost like $15 why are people DIYing them?
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Aug 24, 2022 23:23
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Yeah the redgrass one is expensive but it's also the best one I've tried so far
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Aug 24, 2022 23:27
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punishedkissinger posted:wet palettes cost like $15 why are people DIYing them? I think it is good to DIY one at the start to see how they are and then when you realize it's dope and have some spending money one month instead of buying another box of minis you won't paint, you just buy a wet palette.
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Aug 24, 2022 23:52
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