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i wonder if a strong magnet would pull the wire wheel wires out of the jacket. probably not, because of how well they seem to get stuck in everything, but maybe worth a shot
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Aug 8, 2022 08:38
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Raluek posted:i wonder if a strong magnet would pull the wire wheel wires out of the jacket. probably not, because of how well they seem to get stuck in everything, but maybe worth a shot poo poo's like extra-pointy dangerous cat hair, I swear.
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Aug 8, 2022 23:40
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A new project has entered the arena! Meet Esmerelda: A 1981 Toyota Corolla wagon with the 1.8L 3T-C engine and some sort of manual transmission. I honestly don’t know if it’s a 4 or 5 speed. The demolition derby is less than a month away so we need to get working. We have a whole lot to do, including a full stripping of everything soft, fabricate a tube rear bumper, relocate the battery and gas tank, stiffen the suspension, weld the differential, and desmog the engine. The front actually needs to be weakened; this fancy RV tow hitch thing won’t pass tech inspection:  The driver’s door will be getting reinforcements as it’s in pretty bad shape:  We want to be having fun, not getting hurt. In the back of the Corolla there was this really nice Porter Cable 25 gallon air compressor:  Apparently it was in a City shop but the pressure switch went bad; somebody put a screw in place to hold it on:  Someone important noticed that and ordered that it disappear before they get an OSHA inspection. A new switch is $60 so that’s a score for me if it works.
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Aug 9, 2022 07:28
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I was concerned about your sanity in doing anything with that once I saw the lack of panel attachment, but then you said "demolition derby" and everything was all right. If it weren't for the rust, that would be a neat car to save, but at that point, nah.
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Aug 9, 2022 19:33
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I just had one of those “Score! Wait, no, that’s a lot more work IF it works” moments. This weekend at the junkyard I noticed a ‘cruiser transmission and transfer case sitting in the back of an old mine truck. I paid the man some money and dragged this assembly home:  The transmission is for a BJ75 mine truck; the whole thing probably has less than 50,000 kilometers on it (the two BJ75s in the yard had 29,000 and 30-something thousand hard kilometers). I bought it for the transfer case castings and shifters - I may want/need these for my FJ40. The transmission is for a B-series diesel and won’t fit any gas engines. But…what if it’s the illusive, expensive, and sought-after non-USA h41 transmission with a 4.8 1st gear instead of the 3.5 1st we got? I could swap the input shaft and get that fancy transmission! So like an idiot I cracked it open and, sure enough, it’s an H41. However, it seems to have some crud issues:  That SEEMS to be just poo poo built up on the gears. Maybe. I really won’t know unless I clean it all off, which would probably require taking it apart. Anybody ever rebuilt a manual transmission after finding crap like that and had everything turn out okay?
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Aug 11, 2022 05:09
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I mean, you might as well take a brass brush to it and see how hosed those teeth are. If it's not bad, run it, if it is, can you buy those parts new?
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Aug 11, 2022 05:27
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Nope. But I do know where two other BJ75s are… I already need to rebuild the 4 speed I was planning to use and frankentransmission it using parts from another. This is too long (note the 3” spacer between transmission and transfer case) so I would have to put these gears inside that other transmission with the top plate + shifter off a third.
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Aug 11, 2022 05:33
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If you are going to drive it any significant amount or any real distance from home I would do literally anything to avoid using NLA parts with wear surfaces. Shafts that you just assemble a bunch of gears and bearings onto, sure. Shafts that appear to have gears forged and cut into them? No way. My transmission is a pretty uncommon one - only used 93 to 94 in 2500 and 3500 GM with manual - and I can still buy the input shaft brand new for $80. You could not convince me to use that transmission based on what you're telling me.
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Aug 11, 2022 05:57
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I can get the input shaft, I know that much. I might be able to get the gears - I don’t have the parts books handy. This transmission is basically a 4 speed version of the 5 speed I installed into the FJ62; it even has the extension housing to fit 5th gear (that’s the spacer between the transmission and transfer case; this setup allowed Toyota to use one set of castings, transmission mounts, and driveshafts for everything). The rebuild parts are the same as the other 4 speed I have and was already planning to rebuild. That one is a ‘short’ version without the extension.
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Aug 11, 2022 06:16
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The gearbox on my tractor looked waaaaaaay worse than that and i just drained the swamp out of it, filled it with diesel, drove it round for 5 mins to wash the casings out of water/oil emulsion and then filled it with gear oil and sent it. its not really a high speed vehicle though
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Aug 11, 2022 13:51
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Why does it look like you're taking pictures in a skating rink?
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Aug 12, 2022 00:42
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The only floor space where I could tuck it out of the way right now is next to some potatoes under a grow light. I desperately need to pare down the projects and clear up some room.
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Aug 12, 2022 02:05
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Advent Horizon posted:
Is that what they're calling it these days?
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Aug 12, 2022 03:25
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potatoes
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I really do have two large containers of potatoes growing in the shop. They started sprouting too early and I haven’t had luck in the past with moving them outside after they’ve grown a while. Those transmission gears are borked. There are two others I may ask about but they’re in vehicles so that’s a lot more effort.
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Aug 12, 2022 03:34
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I would 100% dunk that whole case in a 5gal bucket of evaporust.
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Aug 12, 2022 03:59
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Advent Horizon posted:I really do have two large containers of potatoes growing in the shop. They started sprouting too early and I haven’t had luck in the past with moving them outside after they’ve grown a while. quote:Those transmission gears are borked. There are two others I may ask about but they’re in vehicles so that’s a lot more effort.
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Aug 12, 2022 16:46
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SpeedFreek posted:I have to transition my house plants over the course of a week or they get sunburn or something like that. Try a shade cloth for a while? It’s actually the opposite problem - I live in a valley in a heating-dominated climate. If I move plants outside they think it’s fall and die back. IF Dale is willing to part with one of those other two transmissions, I will probably have to buy the entire Land Cruiser they’re in and pay to have them towed home. I’m not sure I’m ready for that again.
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Aug 12, 2022 17:30
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the spyder posted:I would 100% dunk that whole case in a 5gal bucket of evaporust. Same, I bet they come out looking a lot nicer than you'd expect.
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Aug 13, 2022 04:52
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I found pitting on the gears. They’re done. I don’t need or want the transmission casting. The friend who bought that jet ski (the engine of which is taking up valuable space on my floor…) came by to install a trailer hitch on his Subaru:  He’s outside because I am plumb out of space. We spent most of today working on the TE72:  We got most of the deconstruction done; now we need to work on getting everything back together. We need to keep this thing *technically* street legal until derby day. That means all the lights need to work even after the dash is gone:  (Note daylight visible through the body) We’re also going to bumble our way through desmogging the engine; the smog pump and AC compressor have been removed; the air rail is going to get plugged and I’m going to hate my life for a while when I figure out new vacuum hoses. Our plan is to bypass the radiator, gut the thermostat, and run the heater full blast. Our theory is that hot water will be better than no water if it takes a frontal hit. We’ve removed the AC core for better airflow through the heater core and I’m hard-wiring the blower motor directly to the battery with a large on-off switch. That should be enough to keep it from seizing; I’m going to make no claims about the head gasket. I’ve also pulled the fan clutch; I need to figure out a way to make it as solid as possible. Maybe fill it full of gear lube, possibly just go straight to epoxy? I know it won’t provide a *lot* of cooling without the radiator connected, but it seems like even a degree or two will be worth having a fan.
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Aug 14, 2022 02:21
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I like the no rad max fan as a plan. Could you add a water sprayer for the engine? I imagine fan + evaporative cooling would work great for a short run.
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Aug 14, 2022 03:19
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Might be a dumb thought but has any thought been put into relocating rad to the back trunk area with a fan? Have to have a lot of pipe but I'd think it'd make it more protected and help keep the engine cool vs no rad
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Aug 14, 2022 03:29
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Not a dumb thought at all, that’s why the rules explicitly ban it: 
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Aug 14, 2022 05:16
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I'm cross that they thought of my idea, which was DoubleT2172s idea as well. Perhaps install a large cage and surreptitiously run your coolant through it as well, as our Lord and Savior Smokey Yunick would do until caught? Or if you don't think you can pull that off, put a second and maybe even third heater core in the heater box instead of the AC core and run them all in series?
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Aug 14, 2022 07:31
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Advent Horizon posted:
Put it in a vice, drill a 6mm hole clean through it towards the centre and run an M6 bolt and nylock bolt into it. Will lock the inner and outer sections together and make it a solid coupling for not much. I've had to do that with tek screws to the fan clutch on a Massey Ferguson when it failed and the tractor couldnt run without overheating
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Aug 14, 2022 14:32
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Thanks for the bolt idea; I’ll probably have to do that since the screws to take it apart stripped. Today we jacked the car up a couple feet and put it on jackstands:  The sounds it made as the body settled were not inspiring. He drained the gas tank (using the drain plug!) while I took the tires off. The tiny hub caps should clean up nicely and I’m seriously considering making them into coffee cups. They would hold right around 8 ounces.  We took the tires to the junkyard around the corner to get taken off the wheels. It was only when I took them off that I realized just how bad the tires were:  HE HAS BEEN DRIVING THIS CAR ON PUBLIC ROADS. To get from the harbor where he lives to my house is twenty miles of highway!  At this point I think suggesting the derby to him was doing the general public a favor since it’s getting this shitheap off the street.
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Aug 19, 2022 05:38
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That tire scoliosis puts the front tires on my Justy to shame. Both failed in a similar way within 2500 miles of buying it (one was on the way out when we left CO but we didn't realize this) but nowhere near as bad.
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Aug 19, 2022 07:59
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Scoliosis the tire  Reminds me the tires on the VW are trash and should be replaced even if we just sell the thing.
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Aug 19, 2022 10:34
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Rather than bolts could you potentially drill and then use rivets? Would just some cotter pins be strong enough to accomplish the same goal?
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Aug 19, 2022 16:42
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Today was a week, but it was a good I woke up early to meet a friend at his house just after 6am; on the way a black bear ran across the highway in front of me:  We went out to meet another friend at the boat ramp, and the weather today was beautiful:  The reason for going out today was that the king crab season is open this weekend only. The derby car friend dropped a king pot last night and we were checking to see how it did; there were plenty of crab but all undersized. We rebaited the pot and went halibut fishing nearby for a couple hours; no real luck but I did get one keeper. Checked the pot again and they were bigger; two were really close but not quite legal yet. Went back home and tore the gas tank out of the car; we learned that the rear frame has even more rot than we thought:  Oof. The old plan of ‘attack everyone in reverse’ is being modified since we’re not sure the car can take many (any) rear hits! After that we pulled the entire rear axle apart and I did Babby’s first welded differential:  We got the axle all put back together so that’s one big item off the list. After that it was time to go get his skiff and check the crab pot again. Once more, full of undersized and female crab:  We moved the pot over to where we saw some other people’s buoys; maybe that’s a good spot. The water tonight was incredible, it really looked like a bad video game render:  It’s now 11pm and I just got home - it’s time to take a shower and get two fishing trips plus one day of wrenching out of my skin.
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Aug 21, 2022 08:10
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Advent Horizon posted:Not a dumb thought at all, that’s why the rules explicitly ban it: Seems like this permits running your windshield spray nozzles 24/7 with a very large reservoir pointed at your engine. e: for more of my thinking. Doesn't trigger A. as it's not radiator. Doesn't trigger B as it's not heater system. Doesn't trigger C because it does not increase the maximum amount it can contain which is your dictionary definition of capacity. (arguably triggers C with the definition of "the amount that something can produce" if you're talking about "heat reduction" being the "thing" a cooling system produces but I would argue they're referring to capacity in the sense of don't add on a huge volume rather than being clever about additional cooling because you are clearly permitted to do things like remove grills which increase "capacity" in the second sense of the word by giving you more airflow) builds character fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Aug 24, 2022 |
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Aug 24, 2022 15:55
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builds character posted:Seems like this permits running your windshield spray nozzles 24/7 with a very large reservoir pointed at your engine. wait, you said to spray on the engine block, not on the rad core. Genius! meltie fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Aug 24, 2022 |
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Aug 24, 2022 16:02
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Ooh, I like this thinking, but I have a twist idea: Water in the sprayer tank squirts onto the heater core. We’d need to deflect the steam but it would remove heat from inside the engine instead of just the outer part of the block.
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Aug 24, 2022 16:40
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Advent Horizon posted:Ooh, I like this thinking, but I have a twist idea: Water in the sprayer tank squirts onto the heater core. We’d need to deflect the steam but it would remove heat from inside the engine instead of just the outer part of the block. Whynotboth.gif
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Aug 24, 2022 17:06
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I suggested the squirter idea and the response was “We could rename it the Cleveland Steamer”.
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Aug 24, 2022 19:22
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I'd argue that you're just simulating a rainstorm, not actually increasing the cooling capacity of the system as designed.
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Aug 24, 2022 20:40
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Got the FJ62’s gas tank out - that sucked. It’s slightly wider than the frame so my plan to lower it using the transmission jack was a complete failure. You have to tilt it sideways to get it out. These two lines are my problem:  The broken one is the feed line and wasn’t a problem until I tried getting it out. The return, which was leaking, disconnected just fine. I have to remove the plate, desolder the lines, clean up the plate, fabricate new lines, solder them in place, and reinstall. On the shitbox Corolla I ended up drilling through the fan clutch and finding the only thing drywall screws are good for:  I wouldn’t trust those for too long which is why I put in four. The exhaust manifold came off surprisingly easily so the air rail is out and tonight I weld-plugged the air injection bolts:  I’m planning to cap the EGR vacuum lines but that’s not something that works with smog pumps. Removing this will let us remove two belts and a ton of stuff hanging off the engine - now there’s a LOT more room up front before the body smacks critical stuff.
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Aug 25, 2022 05:56
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Got the tires dismounted, slime is nasty: That started oozing florescent green goo today when the humidity went up. I welded some rebar around the valve stem holes to keep them as protected as possible:  I whacked every piece with a mini sledge and none moved, so it appears I got better penetration than I thought. Also note how much poo poo is built up on the wheel. I did some more shop cleaning today while totally not procrastinating and came across something that shows just how long my FJ40 has been inoperable:  Those are pictures, taken on film, from when I took the carburetor apart. They probably wouldn’t have been very helpful during reassembly so it’s a good thing I mailed the bag-o-parts to somebody else last year. I also came across an old unused Wix oil filter that was made in the USA, so of course I had to see what had changed:  2021 Mexican production on the left, 2011 USA on the right. The anti-drainback valves are basically identical so that explains why the Wix that’s in the truck is draining out. Yes, I still need to do that oil change (it’s been less than 1,000 miles since the last, I change it by the calendar). If anyone is still reading, how do I get this electrical connector apart?   That’s the fuel pump bracket and I need to hit the plate with mapp gas so the wiring needs to come off and go back on without damage.
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Aug 28, 2022 06:01
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I'm pretty sure you... Don't. Unfortunately. You're going to gently caress the ground wire in the process anyways, since it appears to be riveted to a tab on the flange. If the hole can be enlarged to 10mm and has enough clearance to install this, you could use it. This is what I used on my MJ sender rebuild, it's actually an Aptiv (aka Delphi, aka Packard Electrical Division) and used as an OEM part on many GM fuel senders. https://www.racetronix.biz/p/connector-set-mp1502-4f-tps-bcwa/rcs-058 https://www.racetronix.biz/p/fs-bulkhead-connector-assembly-4-way/bca-4w https://www.racetronix.biz/p/connector-set-mp150-4f-itwh-vapor-side/rcs-061 This is 4 pin not 1 pin I know but you can get little block off buttplugs for the extra holes in the silicone sealing mat for the exterior connector or just cram some good rtv in there if you don't care how it looks. You can also run the ground for the sender in through it and connect it internally, away from salt and water.
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Aug 28, 2022 08:52
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Like Ken says - factory fuel pump wiring connectors are generally not intended to come apart. I had similar issues when trying to sort out the NLA fuel pump on my Saab and in the end found that it was cheaper and easier for me to buy a complete new fuel pump assembly for a different vehicle and adapt that to fit into my tank than it was to buy all the fittings separately and to sort out brazing anything. It is super easy to change pumps around and change the interior hanger setup. My new one had a smaller top section so i just had to make a flat adaptor plate to fit it into the hole in my tank. I assume you have looked into this as an option? Me being in the UK landrover parts here are super cheap so I ended up with a range rover item. I assume Jeep parts are similar for you? is anything suitable?
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Aug 28, 2022 10:17
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The problem isn’t the pump, that’s fine - it’s a pretty standard in-tank pump plus I have a brand new spare. The problem is the steel fuel lines, which I need to remove from the plate and replace with NiCopp. I have to remove this wire insulator to do the brazing. I’m probably going to replace all the fuel lines this winter but I have a 5am Thursday ferry ticket for this thing so I need to make something work before then.
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Aug 28, 2022 15:35
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