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slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit
What tools should I expect to need as a homeowner for residential plumbing? I am familiar with piping systems from my day job but we use welded and/or flanged pipes or various metal tubes and fittings (Swagelok etc.) for everything, or NPT fittings for temporary stuff, so I feel like the toolkit is going to look different for pex and copper water pipes, plastic drains, etc. Any good resources on where to start?

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SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

slurm posted:

What tools should I expect to need as a homeowner for residential plumbing? I am familiar with piping systems from my day job but we use welded and/or flanged pipes or various metal tubes and fittings (Swagelok etc.) for everything, or NPT fittings for temporary stuff, so I feel like the toolkit is going to look different for pex and copper water pipes, plastic drains, etc. Any good resources on where to start?

It's entirely dependent on what type of piping your house has. The tools I use on copper pipes are totally different from the ones I use on uponor PEX.

slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit

SpartanIvy posted:

It's entirely dependent on what type of piping your house has. The tools I use on copper pipes are totally different from the ones I use on uponor PEX.

Assuming I ever actually close, this place is half copper, half PEX, and slightly polybutylene, though that's being eliminated immediately if not sooner. So half copper, half PEX.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

slurm posted:

What tools should I expect to need as a homeowner for residential plumbing? I am familiar with piping systems from my day job but we use welded and/or flanged pipes or various metal tubes and fittings (Swagelok etc.) for everything, or NPT fittings for temporary stuff, so I feel like the toolkit is going to look different for pex and copper water pipes, plastic drains, etc. Any good resources on where to start?

Water pump pliers and an adjustable wrench will get you through like 95% of fixture installs, assuming you don't need to solder new fittings on. I didn't buy any tools until I needed them, which seemed to work fine.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
I found a strap wrench really useful when I had to fix my tub spout. Also came in really handy with a big jar of nuts that I could not for the life of me unscrew with my bare hands.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Go ahead and misplace a roll of teflon tape now so you have it when you're looking for other things.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

H110Hawk posted:

Go ahead and misplace a roll of teflon tape now so you have it when you're looking for other things.

Only one roll? How is your house still standing... you need at least 5

I don't think I've ever fully used a roll of teflon tape.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

devicenull posted:

Only one roll? How is your house still standing... you need at least 5

I don't think I've ever fully used a roll of teflon tape.

It's the seed roll. You think about it as you buy another to join it in limbo. Otherwise how will you find it while putting your tools away?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

H110Hawk posted:

It's the seed roll. You think about it as you buy another to join it in limbo. Otherwise how will you find it while putting your tools away?

Somehow I can always find a roll of white/water stuff when I need yellow/gas stuff and the reverse on other jobs. I know they're all here. They must move on their own.

slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit
Can the yellow tape not be used on water? Is it just a color coding thing?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

slurm posted:

Can the yellow tape not be used on water? Is it just a color coding thing?

Not a problem. but it is thicker so you need to be aware of that.

There's a whole color system of things I don't need/care about on "teflon tape" (PTFE).

White is single thickness for water lines up to like 1/2 inch, then you need red (actually looks pink) tape for the bigger stuff. This is thicker than the yellow stuff.

There is also specialty tape that we had to use for O2 cylinders. It's green and has no oils/contaminants on it. Not really sure how thick that is compared to the other stuff but I recall it being expensive enough that you wouldn't care to use it for home plumbing.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Ignore all those colors and just get some Blue Monster ptfe tape. It's good and thick and good for water and gas, and basically everything else.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Blue-Mo...lRoCbG4QAvD_BwE

Their pipe dope is great too.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

SpartanIvy posted:

Ignore all those colors and just get some Blue Monster ptfe tape. It's good and thick and good for water and gas, and basically everything else.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Blue-Mo...lRoCbG4QAvD_BwE

Their pipe dope is great too.

That's great if you don't have an inspection to close out your permit.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Motronic posted:

That's great if you don't have an inspection to close out your permit.

Fair point. I googled it and they also make a yellow gas specific tape marketed towards easy inspection approvals. The normal blue kind is rated for LP and NG though. :shrug:

Do you know if there are any similar inspection rules for pipe dope?

Elmysterio
May 17, 2003

I shall smite thee with an all consuming fury!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JlZpN19y0LFzxr7PqPtros1d0Oyz37bW/view?usp=sharing



https://drive.google.com/file/d/14BVbgXAM0b0indhosLOfqagNU6_rublz/view?usp=sharing



I apologize for the links but I need to get some opinions. I went to take a shower after work and when I turned the hot water handle it shot out and water was going everywhere, I turned off the main line to the house so it is off but I need to fix this asap. It's my house and I don't want to have to call a plumber. From looking at the pictures is this something I can fix myself and what tools will I need if I can?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Elmysterio posted:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JlZpN19y0LFzxr7PqPtros1d0Oyz37bW/view?usp=sharing



https://drive.google.com/file/d/14BVbgXAM0b0indhosLOfqagNU6_rublz/view?usp=sharing



I apologize for the links but I need to get some opinions. I went to take a shower after work and when I turned the hot water handle it shot out and water was going everywhere, I turned off the main line to the house so it is off but I need to fix this asap. It's my house and I don't want to have to call a plumber. From looking at the pictures is this something I can fix myself and what tools will I need if I can?

Well, the normally hard part (getting the cartridge out) has been done for you. Normally there is a little clip that keeps it from shooting out. I'm guessing that went missing somehow (maybe rusted away?).

I'd say you need a new cartridge and clip to install in the wall, and some screwdrivers and/or maybe allen wrenches to take the handle/trim stuff apart. Then you should be reinstalling the trim piece and caulking it down (so a caulking gun and some caulk, maybe some painters tape to make it easier) and finally reinstalling the handle.

If you just need to get your water back on in the house go get a cartridge (bring your mess to the hardware store - they'll match it up) and jam it on back in there/clip it in. The rest of the work can be done with the water on.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Can anyone recommend a particular brand for inline sediment and carbon water filters for washing machine and shower? Apart from looking for brass fittings, I really just don't have any experience with them so don't know what to look for or avoid.

We're renting so installing a whole house filtering system is really not an option, but between the old pipes and water heater in the house and the city supply, we get a lot of particulates that I want to keep out of my washing machine, and the chlorine/chloramine odor is exceptionally rank. A hot shower leaves the place smelling like a public pool and I can't get the smell out of the laundry (the machine is clean, it's a top loader about a month old). It's driving me crazy.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

BonerGhost posted:

Can anyone recommend a particular brand for inline sediment and carbon water filters for washing machine and shower? Apart from looking for brass fittings, I really just don't have any experience with them so don't know what to look for or avoid.

We're renting so installing a whole house filtering system is really not an option, but between the old pipes and water heater in the house and the city supply, we get a lot of particulates that I want to keep out of my washing machine, and the chlorine/chloramine odor is exceptionally rank. A hot shower leaves the place smelling like a public pool and I can't get the smell out of the laundry (the machine is clean, it's a top loader about a month old). It's driving me crazy.

Check out this place - https://www.purewaterproducts.com/

I've been buying RO stuff from them for a little while now, and it's all been quality stuff. The customer service is pretty responsive too.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I mentioned it months ago but with a lot of the other stuff now out of the way in the new-to-me condo, I'd like to look at installing an in-sink disposal. Here's my undersink (omg I swear I don't normally send this kind of photo)



So the disposal would be on the right side. There's actually already a breaker labelled "garberator" and the condo was reno'd 7 years ago so I guess they removed one. I'm guessing I'll find that that electrical box in the bottom right side there is on that circuit and it's on the currently unused switch above, by the sink. From a plumbing perspective, it seems a tiny bit more involved with the double sink and the dishwasher outflow etc there as well. Is the right process to basically take out that upright piece on the right:



and remove the drain currently in that sink, placing the disposal in there, and then cutting down that vertical piece of abs to mate it to the crossover piece?

What are the chances that the bottom of your average disposal will be too low to just put it in and cut the pipe and hook it up? If that happens, is the correct move to cut this pipe down, get the appropriate fittings, and shift everything down with it?



Thanks. I guess the other question is how much would a plumber charge to install this? I don't feel like this is beyond my abilities but I don't want to end up in a situation where the fittings I need aren't at hand or something.

knowonecanknow
Apr 19, 2009

Ambition must be made to counteract ambition.
I got told to dump 2 cups of vegetable oil down the floor drain of my laundry room. The floor drain is built into the pan for the washing machine in case of failure. I can't tell if its genius or terrible. I'm worried about bugs, and those tiny fruit flies etc, just breeding in there. On the other hand it seems genius cause it wont evaporate the trap dry since I shouldn't be flooding my washing machine that often. Thoughts?

slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit

knowonecanknow posted:

I got told to dump 2 cups of vegetable oil down the floor drain of my laundry room. The floor drain is built into the pan for the washing machine in case of failure. I can't tell if its genius or terrible. I'm worried about bugs, and those tiny fruit flies etc, just breeding in there. On the other hand it seems genius cause it wont evaporate the trap dry since I shouldn't be flooding my washing machine that often. Thoughts?

I've seen mineral oil and propylene glycol in this application though I don't know how "proper" they are, they are much more inert.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

knowonecanknow posted:

I got told to dump 2 cups of vegetable oil down the floor drain of my laundry room. The floor drain is built into the pan for the washing machine in case of failure. I can't tell if its genius or terrible. I'm worried about bugs, and those tiny fruit flies etc, just breeding in there. On the other hand it seems genius cause it wont evaporate the trap dry since I shouldn't be flooding my washing machine that often. Thoughts?

Yeah, don't do this. I see it recommended all the time. Most cooling oils will go rancid eventually.

That correct way to do this should have been taken care of as the place was being built. It may still be possible to add. It's called a "trap primer". https://www.ferguson.com/category/plumbing-parts-supplies/trap-primers-water-hammer-arrestors/trap-primers/_/N-zbq4k9

Alternately you can use mineral oil but you only need a couple ounces at the most. You fill the trap with water and then float some oil on top. That enough to keep it from evaporating. You don't need to fill the whole trap with oil.

unlimited shrimp
Aug 30, 2008
For the last couple nights, I've noticed that, after the faucets have been unused for a while, they sputter when you turn them on and the water pressure is low until the air is cleared. This isn't happening noticeably during the day when the taps are in more frequent use. We're on city water but there have not been any maintenance bulletins for our area.

Anything I should anticipate or check for while I wait for the service call?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

unlimited shrimp posted:

For the last couple nights, I've noticed that, after the faucets have been unused for a while, they sputter when you turn them on and the water pressure is low until the air is cleared. This isn't happening noticeably during the day when the taps are in more frequent use. We're on city water but there have not been any maintenance bulletins for our area.

Anything I should anticipate or check for while I wait for the service call?

Do you have a PRV in your house where the water comes in?

unlimited shrimp
Aug 30, 2008
Not that I can see. The only things between the line in and the taps are a nonfunctional smart water reader:

... (not sure if installed by the PO or the city), an expansion tank for water hammer, and the water heater. I don't see any leaks or bubbles anywhere, though.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

unlimited shrimp posted:

an expansion tank for water hammer

That would be my first suspect based on your symptoms. See if it's holding a charge/precharge. If the bladder is going bad it's literally going to be releasing air into the lines. Some of them are piped in with a shutoff to make them easy to change. If you have that you can try simply shutting it off (taking it out of the circuit essentially) for a day or two and see if you have the same symptoms or if they go away.

unlimited shrimp
Aug 30, 2008
Sounds good, thank you!

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams

unlimited shrimp posted:

Not that I can see. The only things between the line in and the taps are a nonfunctional smart water reader:

... (not sure if installed by the PO or the city), an expansion tank for water hammer, and the water heater. I don't see any leaks or bubbles anywhere, though.

As an aside, are you sure it's non-functional? I've got one like that and when you flip open the lid yeah the display doesn't work, but it turns out it's "solar" powered and needs a second of light to actually display something (though the actual water meter bits must be powered some other way, because my city is billing me for real usage). I don't know enough about "solar" power especially in something like that to understand wavelengths, but it works in my basement that's lit by LED lights.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
Alright guys…need some advice, may need to give up and call a plumber.

Had/have air coming up out of sink drain when flushing toilet (still do on one of two bathrooms). One time o smelled sewer gas from that 1/2 bath after flushing from sink. Lost water pressure and noticed bc washing machine stopped filling. But it all came back.

Plunged toilets, but they never backed up. Called the city but all they could do was check the manhole out front I don’t have a clean out in front yard.

Things seemed a lot better but still that air sound from one bathroom. But then last night toilets not flushing good. Not going down all the way.

This morning last 3 hours I augered both toilets, nothing came out and no real change. Went on roof and checked the kitchen vent and the vent over original bathroom (not one over the add on 1/2 bath). I did not see obstruction. Back on roof, sprayed water down both vents (I also augered them but it’s only 6 feet long). Back inside no real change.

Open the one clean out I know of on side of house by original bathroom. It was basically empty but a bit of sediment right at the end by cap, shining a flashlight it just looked empty.

As of this moment both are flushing good but that half bath is still gurgling air while/after flushing.

I had never in my 45 years augered/ went on roof to check vents/ opened a sewer clean out so I think I’ve exhausted everything the internet suggests I try.

Thoughts? Only thing my research points to is clogged vent, but I sprayed water, and the bathroom vent is under a walnut tree but I see no obstructions and I sprayed water down it.

Let me know if there is anything left to do, or if I should call a plumber, or since they are now flushing fine see if this air clears up today?

Thanks for any advice

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
I would suggest calling a plumber unless you want to start getting down and dirty with vents and traps and sewer lines. If it's roots you're going to need their jet anyway.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

H110Hawk posted:

I would suggest calling a plumber unless you want to start getting down and dirty with vents and traps and sewer lines. If it's roots you're going to need their jet anyway.

Will do, I just wanted to basically confirm I’ve done everything I could reasonably do myself. Hate wasting money if I am capable of doing something.

I don’t k ow anything else I could try except get a 30-50 foot snake and try that on the vents?

Edit: I made an appointment with a plumbing company my friend recommended, they are at least a week out but he said if it became an emergency to call and they could come. On the phone he said sounds like a partial blockage between house and street? Knock on wood flushing fine for now…

everdave fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Aug 26, 2022

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

everdave posted:

Will do, I just wanted to basically confirm I’ve done everything I could reasonably do myself. Hate wasting money if I am capable of doing something.

I don’t k ow anything else I could try except get a 30-50 foot snake and try that on the vents?

Edit: I made an appointment with a plumbing company my friend recommended, they are at least a week out but he said if it became an emergency to call and they could come. On the phone he said sounds like a partial blockage between house and street? Knock on wood flushing fine for now…

Basically you need a really long snake, possibly a jet, possibly a camera, that needs to make it from your clean outs to the city sewer demarcation. But without the camera you won't know what you're dealing with. You're doing well so far. Flush more frequently if you are going to have a lot of material in your bowl, and do not flush anything but bodily waste and toilet paper. No wipes, tampons, paper towels, etc. Try not to flush while the washing machine is draining, people are showering, you get the idea.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

H110Hawk posted:

Basically you need a really long snake, possibly a jet, possibly a camera, that needs to make it from your clean outs to the city sewer demarcation. But without the camera you won't know what you're dealing with. You're doing well so far. Flush more frequently if you are going to have a lot of material in your bowl, and do not flush anything but bodily waste and toilet paper. No wipes, tampons, paper towels, etc. Try not to flush while the washing machine is draining, people are showering, you get the idea.

Got it. Thanks for that, at least I feel I exhausted what I could do before spending money.

Since I’ve got your ear, thoughts on getting a front yard/by the street clean out installed? It would be thousands according to my neighbor. But I’ve been here 14 years and never had a problem
Other than a clogged toilet in all that time. 1960 built house

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

everdave posted:

Got it. Thanks for that, at least I feel I exhausted what I could do before spending money.

Since I’ve got your ear, thoughts on getting a front yard/by the street clean out installed? It would be thousands according to my neighbor. But I’ve been here 14 years and never had a problem
Other than a clogged toilet in all that time. 1960 built house

It's a great question for your plumber honestly. They will be evaluating the system at your house. You might not have a choice if they can't get a decent shot to the street your screwed. Easier is better.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

H110Hawk posted:

It's a great question for your plumber honestly. They will be evaluating the system at your house. You might not have a choice if they can't get a decent shot to the street your screwed. Easier is better.

Ahh, got it. Thanks!

PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009
We have a ticking water heater that's driving us nuts and finally decided to do something about it. If looks like it may be a couple things including insufficient clearance above it after talking with multiple plumbers. We're now looking at tankless gas as an option for a replacement since replacing with another tank doesn't fix our clearance. Are there any disadvantages to tankless gas? I believe hard water can be, but was told annual maintenance and flushing could take care of that.

PageMaster fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Aug 27, 2022

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

PageMaster posted:

We have a ticking water heater that's driving us nuts and finally decided to do something about it. If looks like it may be a couple things including insufficient clearance above it after talking with multiple plumbers. We're now looking at tankless gas as an option for a replacement since replacing with another tank doesn't fix our clearance. Are there any disadvantages to tankless gas? I believe hard water can be, but was told annual maintenance and flushing could take care of that.

Well venting can be a challenge depending on your current setup, and obviously having a gas line there makes things easier. Other than that pay attention to your incoming water temperature because there is a maximum any given heater will be able to heat the ground water at maximum flow. We got a “free” Rinnai through the gas company and it’s awesome for our use case.

Jaxyon
Mar 7, 2016
I’m just saying I would like to see a man beat a woman in a cage. Just to be sure.

Jaxyon posted:

The burner and the regulator on my water heater keep going bad(blink code says bad burner).

Like once a year.

Do I just have a poo poo water heater or is there an underlying problem that could be causing this?

Waterheater is a Lowes-bought Whirlpool that came with the house(was replaced 5~ years ago). Whirlpool doesn't make them, if that matters.

Also curious about gas tankless water heaters.

This thing failed yet again(4th time) and it's out of warranty.

I'm sick of dealing with water heater problems.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Going to tankless is a luxury thing. Unless you have some specific need for the space, increased heating capacity (which cannot fit in a tank in the space), or both. Tankless is a increased cost to install and maintain at a theoretical, but not guaranteed, increase in efficiency.

Seriously if you don't have a reason just like for like swap your tank for under $2k.

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Jaxyon
Mar 7, 2016
I’m just saying I would like to see a man beat a woman in a cage. Just to be sure.

H110Hawk posted:

Going to tankless is a luxury thing. Unless you have some specific need for the space, increased heating capacity (which cannot fit in a tank in the space), or both. Tankless is a increased cost to install and maintain at a theoretical, but not guaranteed, increase in efficiency.

Seriously if you don't have a reason just like for like swap your tank for under $2k.

I have always seen them as more efficient but honestly doing research it seems like I'd need a full family to see any real efficiency increases, but it's only me and my partner.


Edit: Having said that, gas company says that converting is a 600-1000 rebate.

Is that enough to cover the price difference?

Jaxyon fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Aug 30, 2022

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