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I give up on fixing this SVX myself, I'm going to get it towed to the shop tomorrow, have them replace the key cylinder, put the accessory brackets and belts and radiator back on and get it driveable. I need this thing out of here and I can't get the lock cylinder changed myself because I have no keys and I'm afraid of damaging something by trying to drill it out. My Impreza started making a real bad thunking noise half a mile from home, sounds like possibly an axle went or the differential is going, I don't know. So I'm going to have to get that fixed too. E: And now my truck seems to have a dragging shoe or something, the back right wheel is hot to the touch and smells terrible after driving it. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Aug 14, 2022 |
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Aug 14, 2022 00:08
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I give up on fixing this SVX myself, I'm going to get it towed to the shop tomorrow, have them replace the key cylinder, put the accessory brackets and belts and radiator back on and get it driveable. I need this thing out of here and I can't get the lock cylinder changed myself because I have no keys and I'm afraid of damaging something by trying to drill it out. Chapter 3: Wherein .22 Eargesplitten daily drives an SVX, or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb. Montmorency finds trouble.
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Aug 16, 2022 00:01
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Oh I was dailying it before it exploded. I had just finished a 700 mile road trip before the water pump went. I haven't had a response from the shop yet, I got all the accessory belts back on and just need to find the radiator mounts and lower rad hose and then I might actually have the whole thing together. No idea whether the timing is good though.
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Aug 16, 2022 01:15
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Threw a rod in the truck, kill me. Renting a truck to tow my truck and Impreza to the shop and tow my SVX around back and then hopefully by the time I have to return it the Impreza will be fixed. That appointment is on Tuesday.
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Aug 22, 2022 01:09
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$7600 estimate to have a rebuilt engine put in the truck. Which is about $mid-'00s Tundra. So I'm either selling it or setting it aside for a dumb project down the line like putting a big block in it.
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Aug 24, 2022 22:57
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Some luck. Sorry, bud.
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Aug 25, 2022 02:43
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I'm not saying you could LS swap it for under a quarter of that, I'm just saying.
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Aug 25, 2022 04:41
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A friend was suggesting a 4bt swap but 4bt engines seem to be hen's teeth. Not sure what all is involved in a LS swap having to go from OBD1 to OBD2. I know it's new engine mounts and computer, maybe it's simpler having a manual? I think I'm going to set it aside for a while, I don't know for sure.
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Aug 25, 2022 05:06
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The OBD2 part isn't a big deal, you can just eliminate the old diag connector and use the one from the LS donor harness, only 3 wires get run to it and 2 are power and ground. I slapped it in my '79 J truck easily. Most common SBC bellhousing pattern transmissions are already a known quantity when it comes to an LS swap. I can't remember which one you have but it's almost certainly fairly simple. For example, on my 03 engine and 93 k3500 nv4500 transmission I did a bunch of measurements and math and decided to roll the dice on a factory clutch and flywheel setup for an 03 k3500 6.0 manual but with new TOB, fork, and slave cylinder for a 93 and it worked perfectly. Most automatics it's simply a matter of choosing the correct make model year donor for a flexplate, since Chevy luckily tended to not change the transmission and engine at exactly the same year break so there's usually a flexplate available with the right crank and converter patterns. Motor mounts you can either use the factory SBC clamshells and rubber with a cheap set of adapter plates to the LS block pattern (you can even find the pattern for it on Google image search, if you don't care about looks and own a drill press, grinder, and machinists caliper) or you can probably buy fancy aftermarket mounts that fix the issue. The wiring is pretty simple going into an older chassis, only thing that can be hard is getting factory speedo and tach working but I'm pretty sure that's well documented for most older generations of GM vehicles now. Oil and water you just plumb the sensors from the old engine in and you're done.
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Aug 25, 2022 06:52
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That doesn't sound too bad, and I have access to an engine hoist. Do you just use the LS harness or did you have to merge stuff? I know people sell harnesses for the swap, I was looking at that a couple nights ago. I think I'd need a new fuel pump as well, hopefully dropping the tank to do that wouldn't be too terrible.
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Aug 25, 2022 07:22
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Yeah you'll need a new fuel pump and possibly upgraded hose on the supply side to deal with the higher pressure. I just merged my factory harness and the LS donor factory harness, it wasn't too bad with a copy of alldata 2013 for reference and the fsm for my vehicle. I had to tune the ECU to remove VATS and change a few things but if you aren't picky about that you can easily have someone do it for you instead of spending several hundred on hptuners plus the credits needed for your ECU.
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Aug 25, 2022 08:17
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How much could a junkyard Tundra V8 possibly cost? They're almost as common as the LS at this point. Or is it a V6? Which should be even more common... I guarantee 80% of that cost is shop labor. edit: and possibly a reman engine rather than a JY pull.
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Aug 25, 2022 18:02
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Yeah, but IIRC this is an early 90s or late 80s Chevy truck, so far easier to go LS. Edit: yup, 92 k1500, should be a 4L60 (non e) transmission and I think an np241c driver drop tcase. The great thing about going LS is there's a much higher chance all the driveshafts, tcase, and transmission can remain unmodified and unmoved during an LS swap. I mean you'll probably need a 4L80e or rebuild eventually but that can get kicked down the road to a later date without really affecting the costs of either half of the project. kastein fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Aug 25, 2022 |
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Aug 25, 2022 20:43
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Oooooooooooh, I see. He meant the cost to repair was about the cost of a used Tundra. Got it. Reading comprehension am good. edit: in taht case, an LS swap is a no brainer. Even an unloved/unwanted 4.8 would be leaps and bounds better than the TBI 350.
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Aug 25, 2022 21:30
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Darchangel posted:edit: in taht case, an LS swap is a no brainer. Even an unloved/unwanted 4.8 would be leaps and bounds better than the TBI 350. Absolutely. '92 should be the 700R4. If its late enough to be an early '93 it'll have a non-pwm converter lockup 4l60E. Either way this is all small fries. Stick to the non dbw throttlebody ls so that you can properly utilize the bowden cable if it's a 700R4. Pretty sure you can run the '96 and later fuel sender and at worst the entire fuel tank to get a drop in high-pressure-pump solution. I think you'll need to run new lines, but this is also small fries.
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Aug 25, 2022 22:29
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It's a manual so I think it's a 5LM60 since it's before they started using the NV3500, but A) I'm not sure which RPO code to look for and B) the transmission was rebuilt a few thousand miles ago but that might have meant it was replaced instead. The engine is a reman, they said it's a 4 year warranty for $3300, then they budget about $1500 for other parts that might end up being bad when they dig into it on something that age. Pitted intake manifold, cracked exhaust manifold, that kind of thing. They also said that they try to quote high because they would rather say "it's actually only $6500 (my number not theirs)" than be over the quote. I'd love to go pull an engine from a junkyard but I don't know when I'll have time to drive down to the front range and spend a day at the junkyard so I might need to find one that has already been pulled. I've been working 30-40 hours at my side job on top of my 40 hour day job and we're just now getting enough staff that I don't have to be on call 24/7 at the side job but they need to get trained up and get experience so that we can trust them when a call comes in.
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Aug 26, 2022 02:35
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I'm thinking I might just sell the truck. A) my trailer park has decided they don't want more than 3 cars per lot and while I'm not sure I signed that in the lease I am sure I don't want to go to court over it if I can avoid it. And B) I want more towing capacity because I've read that you should reduce the towing capacity by 10% every 3500 feet or so you go up and that drops the capacity down to about 4,000 around here considering the mountain passes I have to deal with. I'm thinking about saving up for a late '00s Tundra or a Duramax or 6.7 Powerstroke and just dealing with not being able to tow until then (this would probably be 6-8 months), or needing to rent a truck for it. Basically if I pay $2k and spend 50-100 hours swapping a new motor in I've now got a $2000-3000 truck that I'm going to want to replace anyway. It just doesn't make a ton of sense.
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Aug 28, 2022 22:25
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It shouldn't take 100 hours to repower an old chev with an old chev v8. Like 10 maybe 20 tops with the rustiest shittiest of shitheaps. A good running 350 is nearly a free range item found on road sides and hanging from every rural tree around christmas time. a late 00's tundra won't be that much more truck than an old 1500 gmt400. It's also gonna come with The Toyota Tax. The Dirtymax/6.7 PSD will do what you want depending on year and will set you back a low to mid 5 figures for something that is turn key and not hosed with or hosed up. Be aware that not all gens of Duramax are created equal. You're seriously better off buying a 800/900 gasser 2500.
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Aug 28, 2022 22:44
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Upcoming rambling wall of text, sorry. I might just be biased in that I have consistently had worse luck with American cars/trucks than Japanese. The only catastrophic failure I've had in 160k miles of Japanese cars has been the water pump seizing on the SVX, I've had head gaskets go at low miles on an Escort ZX2 and a Saturn that guzzled oil but was otherwise the most reliable American car and then this truck that blew up after putting a ton of work into it, including fresh oil and coolant 2000 miles ago. Granted 40k of those Japanese miles were in a <10 year old car while the rest are all older but I put 110k miles in this '99 Impreza since 2009 and the only time something actually went severely wrong was me ignoring warning signs of radiator failure for about 600 miles over a week because I didn't know what I was seeing. I trust a Tundra or Tacoma to go way longer than this truck even with a new engine. Plus the Chevy already has a lot of other issues that need addressed even before this. It already has a dome light that won't properly turn off with the doors closed so I had to pull that to get the battery to stop dying, it needs a new parking brake cable installed that I might need to take it to a shop for because the current assembly is solid rust, needs the towing wiring harness fixed because the wiring for the left turn signal/brake light keeps shaking loose, needs the glove box door replaced, feels like the seat back retaining latch is starting to fail, and still has lingering mouse poo poo behind the dash that I haven't been able to get to but shakes out a little when offroading. A late '00s Tundra is also rated for 10k pounds as opposed to the 6k this was rated for new. The primary problem with just going and getting a junkyard motor is that I can't spend the time to do it since I'm on call 24/7 until we get these new people trained up and I'm looking at $700-1,000 for a 350 TBI off Craigslist/Facebook that has already been pulled. I'm also assuming that it will take way longer than expected because I don't currently have anyone to help wrangle the engine/hoist and I've never done it before and am not a great mechanic. How are the LB7 duramaxes for reliability? I know I was talking about getting a newer one but my diesel-loving friend was singing the praises of the 7.3 Powerstroke so I started looking around that timeframe too. He loves the 7.3 and has a stinking fast one that he kind of ruined by not realizing the the bigger injectors and higher power were going to destroy his EGTs and he can't fit an intercooler in the van body. He's apparently not a GM fan so doesn't know anything about the Duramaxes. I found an '02 2500HD flatbed with the LB7 and 240k miles for $6.5k, that seems to be rated for 12k pounds which is way more than I would need and the turbo should counteract the elevation loss assuming that the factory installed ones have a boost controller operating off of MAP. The 7.3 is rated for 10k pounds which would similarly be plenty for me, and he says that as long as they have been and continue to be properly taken care of they are 500k mile engines. I found a 350k mile '99 F350 with a tuner and free flowing exhaust (which might mean I need to add cats again but I think it's in an emissions county). Assuming equal-ish reliability the 2500HD seems like a better option because it's newer, lower mileage, more powerful, and while having sensible upgrades could be good it could also mean he has beaten the hell out of that 7.3. The Ford has the cleanest interior of any work truck I have seen in my life, but that doesn't mean he doesn't drive like an idiot. The Cummins has too high of a brand tax for me to consider.
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Aug 29, 2022 03:09
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I might just be biased in that I have consistently had worse luck with American cars/trucks than Japanese. then this truck that blew up after putting a ton of work into it, including fresh oil and coolant 2000 miles ago. Main thing here is the difference between Maintenance debt, age/miles related component failures, and previous owner neglect. Toyotas are above average in their ability to mask lack of maintenance, neglect, and components wearing out. They are however not made of some magic sauce that prevents them from breaking. Reducing the age or use of the vehicle helps a lot in reducing vehicle issues. The third is documentation. If a normal(Not you, goon, with the seven inch stack of documents) previous owner did not care about documenting the maintenance they did not care about the maintenance. 22 Eargesplitten posted:
Yeah, I can't argue that the tundra will just work. It will. It'll be a motoring appliance. Old trucks nickel and dime. It's what they do. The Taco is imo too little for tow pig duties outside of (really) small trailers. IMO these are all small fries 'old truck things no matter who built it' issues. An ancient 3vz-e Toyota one-ton will be equally terrible. With class 2a trucks their ratings are optimistic at best. Class 2b and 3 they're generally rated conservatively. I in general have a beef with class2a because of this. 22 Eargesplitten posted:
I'm gonna break this into two parts. The engines, and their wrappers. LB7s were injector eaters when they were new. It's probably on its second set if not third with 240k miles. Expect a run time of 80-120k-miles per set. $2500 for the base parts and probably 1500 if not more to have a shop drop em in. There is no EGR or catalyst if it's a federal emissions truck. Catalyst if it's a CA model. Dmax runs a B10 life of 225,000 miles. This means 10% of all running duramaxes will need an overhaul at *this* mileage. 7.3 PSD/T444E has been around since 1994. It's getting loving Old(tm). Similar thing. Injectors will be about half the price however the HPOP will more than makeup for the difference. HPOP generally lasts 150-300k miles, injectors in the 1-200k mile range. Sooner is typically better. They're at the age where it's death by a thousand cuts. You're gonna want to baseline it. oil cooler seals, injector orings, hpop delivery hoses, reseal the fuel bowl, do the injector seals, glowplugs, and valve cover gaskets. Their B10 is 200,000 miles and B50 life is 350,000 miles. The rest of the truck will fall apart around the engine. The Allison 1k is imo a better transmission than the 4R100. They're both wastegated turbos and will compensate for altitude. The superduty and the GM run an intercooler, the obs and no van will have one. Both of these engines are used in vehicles with GVWRs of 15 tons. If you get one equipped with a ZF-6 6 speed, it's a treat over the 4R100 and IMO the Allison 1k is just as good if not better. GM really got the programming on that out of the gate. Turning the power up will break either. The Allison can be built up to withstand rude amounts of power. It's something up to like eight-grand. Power and gears? The GM and its Dmax is a little better than the 7.3. 5 gears in the auto. (six in '06+). Tooning it will increase stress and reduce engine life. Technically the Dmax is a more modern design and is simpler in that the 7.3 uses HEUI. 2wd? My opinion? Go for either. Doesn't matter. Pick your flavor. 4wd? Ford's 60 front end is better than the stuff GM is using however it's gonna take the orbit of a celestial body to turn around and rides like a medieval torture device. 10.5-14 bolts and sterling 10.5s are beastly pig axles. 22 Eargesplitten posted:am not a great mechanic. A 20+ year old cheap diesel will bankrupt you if You can't work on it yourself. IMO? Get the Tundra. I'm not here to yuck your yum or anything and I'm more than happy to dig through old truck problems. There's three other goons here afaik with 7.3 superduties and at least two with various gens of Duramax. Some of us sickos run even older engines. Should go off and make a truck thread, I'm getting wordy here. I have a lengthy thread somewhere here about what it takes to dig an old diesel out of debt. It's a seven year circus in the making.
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Aug 29, 2022 16:25
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Thank you for the breakdown. I thought that newer manufacture injectors were better than the old ones on the LB7 from what I was reading last night after that post. Should I still expect every 80k-120k on replacements? Are they particularly difficult to DIY? On the 7.3 my friend had a shop do his but that's because his is an ambulance and the hood is tiny so it's a pain to work on, it seems like the truck's massive hood should make it easier? If I were to get a tune on either it would likely be a mild one with a goal of improved efficiency assuming the claims that places like Power Hungry Performance make are valid, and even then it would be because I decided to drop the money on a quiet tune as well so I'm not shouting at full volume over the truck when hitching up / backing in with a trailer. The last thing I want to do is roll coal, and the 300hp and 500lb-ft should be more than enough for my needs. When I say I'm not a very good mechanic, what I mean is that I'm slow. I take way longer than I should on most things, especially if it's not something I have a lot of practice with. I'm improving, but it's a process. I definitely couldn't do an IDI water pump on the side of the road like you did. I think part of why my friend is encouraging the 7.3 is that he's done a ton of work on them both in his truck and working on the T444Es in commercial vehicles as a diesel tech. I only really take a car to the shop if I'm in way over my head, it requires specialized equipment like AC, or if I need something done quickly like when my SVX's timing belt went and I knew that my Impreza's timing belt was on borrowed time.
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Aug 29, 2022 18:09
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Just swap a reman 350 in. It's by far the least expensive solution in terms of time and the second cheapest behind used LS in terms of cost. If you're a slow mechanic there are very few things that are as simple to work on. A diesel will be more expensive up front, more complicated and even harder and expensive to fix.
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Aug 29, 2022 20:04
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While the pickup makes injector jobs easier, it kind of doesn't. Run it stock. That alone will be an improvement over a 350. Seriously. Resist the temptation to gently caress with its programming. the T444e is already turned up over everything else it came in. Should also pay attention to your friend that's always working on his 7.3.  The coolant pump was the least of my problems. I too worked on these, the 6.0 that came after, for years. I run the IDI for a reason. I do not recommend these old shits to anybody because they're simply too old and most people aren't capable of dealing with their esoteric issues and the half dozen slack jawed yokels that owned them.  Denver, October 2021. Wrar posted:Just swap a reman 350 in. It's by far the least expensive solution in terms of time and the second cheapest behind used LS in terms of cost. If you're a slow mechanic there are very few things that are as simple to work on. He's right you know.
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Aug 29, 2022 20:38
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My problem is that the reman 350 will still end up not being enough truck to tow my camper and will be straining just to tow my other shitboxes when they need moving/I make another poor financial decision. I guess it would be an option to last me until I save up for something newer? I'm pretty sure the work on the 7.3s was mostly on the commercial T444s as a diesel tech, he doesn't have a ton of miles on his ambulance. Most of the work he has had to do is trying to fix the garbage constantly breaking air suspension. I've only seen it in his garage once in the past few years and I'm over there a ton. What's the oldest diesel you would recommend if the late '90s and early '00s are too old and likely to be mistreated? I know not to get the 6.0 or 6.4 powerstroke so that would be '11 at earliest for a Ford, what about the Duramax? Again I'm not looking much at Cummins because a '95-'99 with a ton of miles and a clapped out body still tends to be like $10k. I am still keeping an eye out for 5.7 Tundras, although the tendency for them to be crew cabs with a tiny bed is a turn-off. I'd rather have a Sequoia at that point because I can pull the rear seats and have enough room to haul decent-sized stuff which I couldn't with a 4-5' bed.
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Aug 29, 2022 21:46
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Get a 6.0+ LS instead. Parts are cheaper and it will be easy and to fix.
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Aug 29, 2022 21:48
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Would they fall under the 2b classification with a more accurate towing capacity or would they still be the optimistic 2a? I know the truck would fall under 2b but IIRC that engine also comes in the 1500 which is 2a. Looks like a 2007 2500 with a 6.0 and 4.10 axles is rated for 9900lb, which if 10% per 3500 feet (or fraction thereof) above sea level beyond the first 3500 feet woul be about 7800-7900 by mental math. Which should be enough, I would think.
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Aug 29, 2022 21:56
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There's a goon here that tows heavy with a Sequoia. What does your camper weigh again? I've missed this. The 350 itself won't have an issue moving the load. They were installed into schoolbuses and RVs. It's the transmission and rearend behind it. My rec for a diesel that needs one and isn't super versed in working on them is a late model psd with a warranty. I personally am trigger shy of any light duty diesel built up to very recently. First owner care matters a lot. First owner care with the complexity and power density of a modern diesel is paramount. Your 1500 2a and 2500 2b are going to typically be worlds apart. The 1500 is more or less its own thing. Most every 2500 is a de-rated 3500. Same axles. Same brakes. Same frame. Same transmission and engine. Lighter duty suspension. Typically no overloads on the rear axle on the 2b. Of this era the 1500 will give you a 4l60e Transmission. The 2500 will give you a 4l80E behind a 6L or an allison 1000 behind the 8.1. The 8.1/Allison powertrain is featured in trucks up to 26,000lb gvwr. 6L/4l80e a little less.
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Aug 29, 2022 22:42
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It's I think 4700 pounds dry, so it would be fine at sea level but then I lose roughly 20% up here (and whatever age has done) and then I'm right at the edge driving up a mountain pass at 30mph revving the hell out of the engine in 2nd gear. Similar if I'm towing something like my SVX on a trailer. So are 2500s/3500s more likely to have 4.10s or up behind a higher ratio transmission to make up for the similar engine to the smaller trucks? Also the friend I mentioned is Kritter and he says that you're right in that I should buy a Tundra or a modern diesel but also you're wrong because the 7.3 is an acceptable backup. I talk about cars/trucks with him all the time. He also insists that the LS-based engines are poo poo because he doesn't like American gas engines and I can't find the B10 number to shut him up.
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Aug 29, 2022 23:10
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Please tell him to post in AI so I can probe him for being dumb as a fuckin sack of bricks. gently caress outta here with that LS slander.
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Aug 29, 2022 23:26
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He lost his login credentials and has never posted, just shitposted in IRC.
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Aug 29, 2022 23:32
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Coward. 
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Aug 29, 2022 23:45
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I do have to agree with the k1500 not really being enough. Honestly if it was a 2500 or 3500 I'd be saying throw an LS and a 4L80e in there and forget about it, but the 1500 suspension is going to make you sad probably towing, and the 700-4r or 4l60 will also make you sad eventually even if you LS it. That being said it's still probably the cheapest option, aside from slapping another 350 in. Speaking of which, how's pick n pull availability on those in your area? I can't guarantee it, but I may be swinging through the Denver area in a few weeks and will have literally every tool with me. It usually only takes me about 2 hours to pull a motor in the junkyard and I'm planning on hitting at least one yard in Dacono for MJ parts and stopping by Commerce City to bother a friend of mine at his shop anyways.
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Aug 30, 2022 00:38
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I guess theoretically I could do a suspension swap on the K1500 but depending on how much of the truck that involves swapping (differentials? axles? transfer case?) it might be a Ship of Theseus situation that still leaves me with a weaker frame. It does have a manual so the 700r4/4l60 There's a pretty good amount of early to mid 2000s GM trucks and SUVs in the local yards in Denver. My issue has just been getting time to safely go do stuff out of town although we've got one more person that just started today so I could actually do that soon.
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Aug 30, 2022 01:07
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The person saying the LS is bad and the 7.3 is good sounds much more reliable and like a better source of information than, uh, let me check my notes here… it’s just a picture of a truck and an engine? Idk. But, how often do you really need to tow? Because it seems like you have # of cars limitations that nobody is paying attention to, including you. Maybe I’ve just misunderstood them?
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Aug 30, 2022 02:24
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I guess theoretically I could do a suspension swap on the K1500 but depending on how much of the truck that involves swapping (differentials? axles? transfer case?) it might be a Ship of Theseus situation that still leaves me with a weaker frame. It does have a manual so the 700r4/4l60 I'm a complete idiot, you literally already said it wasn't automatic.  I meant a simple like-for-like TBI 350 junkyard swap - you can probably get out the door with a longblock for under 300, throw 100 in assorted gaskets, fluids, and filter at it and dump it right in, making your dead truck into (at minimum) a truck someone will be willing to buy so you can get what you want. That being said, I'm also down for helping pull an LS if that's what you're after.
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Aug 30, 2022 04:12
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Oh I see, that makes sense. I guess pulling a 350 TBI wouldn't require also paying for the new wiring harness and the accessories like an LS based motor would. I remember checking before I went to a junkyard a few months back and there were something like 15 GMT400s in a single yard although some would have been '96-'98 when they swapped to the post-TBI engine and some of those likely would have had the v6.
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Aug 30, 2022 06:19
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22 Eargesplitten posted:He also insists that the LS-based engines are poo poo because he doesn't like American gas engines and I can't find the B10 number to shut him up. I'm pretty sure the LS architecture has proved itself over the last 20 freaking years. edit: it's like saying the SBC is bad...
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Aug 30, 2022 17:09
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He would definitely also say the SBC is bad and use mine throwing a rod as an example for that. He genuinely thinks the only reason to get an American vehicle is for a diesel engine because Japan refuses to import diesels to the US, or for a sports car like a corvette that you don't mind living in the shop. I think he also grudgingly makes an exception for Panther Body fords because they racked up stupid hours/miles as taxis and cop cars. His ideal vehicle is a Land Cruiser 80 series or a Suzuki Jimny with the diesel. We argue on this, but he has a frustrating tendency to be right about other situations when I least want him to be. E: I mentioned the thread is ragging on him and he clarified that he thinks it's a good engine but doesn't trust the longevity. Which I still disagree with. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Aug 30, 2022 |
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Aug 30, 2022 17:23
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22 Eargesplitten posted:He would definitely also say the SBC is bad and use mine throwing a rod as an example for that. He genuinely thinks the only reason to get an American vehicle is for a diesel engine because Japan refuses to import diesels to the US, or for a sports car like a corvette that you don't mind living in the shop. I think he also grudgingly makes an exception for Panther Body fords because they racked up stupid hours/miles as taxis and cop cars. His ideal vehicle is a Land Cruiser 80 series or a Suzuki Jimny with the diesel. OK.
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Aug 31, 2022 02:47
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| # ? May 28, 2024 13:16 |
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I agree with him on longevity of GM engines. A motor throwing a rod after 30 years of service is pathetic.
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Aug 31, 2022 02:50
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