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Cool, I grabbed niterider solas 250 and a mount that looks like it will fit. The 250 lumens might be overkill, but I wanted something that will be visible in daylight for commuting.
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Sep 4, 2022 01:30
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Re: working up to doing centuries. So this is probably not as hard as you think it is. If you’re doing 40mi rides already, then think about doing a 65mi ride.Do a couple of those and there’s really not much physical adaptation needed to go another 35mi. You just need to stay on top of nutrition and hydration…force yourself to eat half a Clif bar every 30min, drink regularly. Stop somewhere for an extending break and/or eat real food. You may develop awful cramps on your first few longer rides. Shoulder, hand, neck fatigue also possible. I dunno, just try it. Ride 50 miles in one direction and see what happens…
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Sep 4, 2022 01:35
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I have done a couple centuries, but I've learned that I really don't enjoy doing more than 60 miles or 4000 feet of climbing in a day. So yeah try working up to it, if only to learn your personal limits. I like to know how far I can push if I need to even if I'm going to have a bad time. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Sep 4, 2022 |
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Sep 4, 2022 01:42
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tarlibone posted:I was having some chain skips on 6th gear, so I just taught myself how to make small adjustments on the rear derailleur on the new bike. After sufficiently messing it up at first, I got it working again, and a test ride up and down the hill I live on (gently caress, my town is hilly), every gear seems nice and happy. I'm sure that skippetty-doo-dah might come back on my next long-ish ride, but if it does, I'll head to the shop to see what's up. I'm taking the day off today, but if the weather is clear-ish tomorrow, I'll be back on the saddle. (If it's not clear, I'll have to ride in side. Gotta keep up with the challenge.) Rear derailleurs are very simple, and "easy" to get adjusted correctly. They're not so simple that you'll instantly get it right. But if you follow the directions in the park tools RD video, and sit at home shifting and adjusting the barrel adjuster for a bit, you'll get it. I do a clean and lube on my drive train first, to quiet it as much as possible. Follow the instructions in the video to get the rough setup done, so there's no more chattering. Then for the fine adjusting, go through the whole cassette while listening to how snappy each shift is. Adjust 1/8th or 1/12th of a turn when the shifting is slightly off. Repeat over and over until you can go up and down the cassette with nice and crisp shifts. Some gears will only shift at certain points around the cog, because of shift ramps. Don't spend forever trying to correct for that. And you will have to periodically re-adjust it, that's normal. Adjusting my RD is a zen thing that keeps me in tune with how my bike sounds and behaves. There's no hidden mystical information, you can poke it for a while and adjust it just as well as any shop can. I believe in you!
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Sep 4, 2022 02:22
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Thanks for the info and encouragement. The weather cleared up today in the late afternoon. It was too late to prepare for a 20+ mile ride, and it was (is still) muggy as hell after a day of light rain, so I went for a quick 6-miler on the hilly backroads. It wrecks my legs more than a 15-mile flat ride in a sprint. The good thing is that it forces me to shift a lot, and I got some feel for how the Contend AR does in some dead climbs with no starting momentum. The shifting is great and stable, and this thing likes to climb!
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Sep 4, 2022 02:45
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jetz0r posted:
I feel the exact opposite. Currently trying to fix the shifting on my MTB and it's frustrating as hell. Indexing doesn't fix it, so it's only just a matter of checking the chain wear, cassette wear, bent hanger, bent derailleur, worn inner cable, frayed outer cable, loose rear hub, chainring wear etc etc...
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Sep 4, 2022 09:12
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Angryhead posted:Looking for a bit of bike buying advice: I've rode over 3000 km with this bike now and while I like pretty much everything else, the lovely brakes are a real killer - and I'm honestly kind of afraid that eventually, literally. (I think they model is Weinmann AG Vainqueur 750 if anybody wants to check them out) I love the bike, and still use it daily. The brakes are excellent. I also own a bike with fully hydro Ultegra brakes, which are like 6 times the price, and in normal use there's no appreciable difference. It'll be a big upgrade compared to your current bike. If you want some more initial impressions or pictures you can check my post history in this thread and the bicycle picture thread.
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Sep 4, 2022 09:31
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I've had a rim brake Triban 105 for about 4 years now as a winter/commuter and its been absolutely bomb proof.
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Sep 4, 2022 11:39
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What are peoples experiences with AC shoulder separation? Because I've noticed a bump on my right shoulder. There's basically no pain and mostly mild discomfort but its a noticable bump looking at the mirror without a shirt and I can definitely feel something is off. I have most mobility back in my arm after a couple, it's maybe kinda hard to lift my arm above my shoulder but it's also only been a couple of days. I don't my health card yet but I'll figure out a doctor's appointment as soon as possible.
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Sep 4, 2022 12:44
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Aphex- posted:I feel the exact opposite. Currently trying to fix the shifting on my MTB and it's frustrating as hell. Indexing doesn't fix it, so it's only just a matter of checking the chain wear, cassette wear, bent hanger, bent derailleur, worn inner cable, frayed outer cable, loose rear hub, chainring wear etc etc... It’s a long shot but have you tried adjusting the chain gap? I spent the past year dealing with some monstrously making GBS threads shifting in the middle gears on my mountain bike before I finally fixed it last week. No amount of indexing helped and it was a new bike so there wasn’t any kind of wear that should have been causing it.
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Sep 4, 2022 15:55
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yoohoo posted:It’s a long shot but have you tried adjusting the chain gap? I spent the past year dealing with some monstrously making GBS threads shifting in the middle gears on my mountain bike before I finally fixed it last week. No amount of indexing helped and it was a new bike so there wasn’t any kind of wear that should have been causing it. I'll give it a go! I did adjust the B screw but it didn't seem to do much but I'll try again. I think the derailleur might just be too worn, replacing that is like the last thing I haven't tried yet. It's also one of the most expensive that's why haha!
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Sep 4, 2022 16:34
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Have you changed the jockey wheels
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Sep 4, 2022 17:03
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I made an attempt at making a front wheel. Well. This was my first attempt at wheelbuilding ever. I didn't know it was possible to gently caress it up so bad. Next I made a rear wheel, and it turned out OK.  I realized that as tyre width increases, so does height. 40mm tyres have maybe 5mm to fender bolts, and the tyre "hairs" caress the fender sides from inside. I need probably a max 32mm wide tyre. It is in theory 8mm lower, and 4mm narrower on both sides. That should be enough. The 40mm tyre looks so tiny that I hate to go to 32mm, but such is life. That also means this bike will be for commuting and buying groceries etc and won't see any gravel. Didn't people have tech to do larger forks and fenders back in the days?   Old wheel was 1890g with 5-speed casette. This new one is 1790g with 11-speed casette.. Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Sep 4, 2022 |
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Sep 4, 2022 22:07
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Can't you get some 35s, or 38s? 5mm would be enough for me anyways.
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Sep 4, 2022 22:12
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Ihmemies posted:I made an attempt at making a front wheel. Well. This was my first attempt at wheelbuilding ever. I didn't know it was possible to gently caress it up so bad.
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Sep 4, 2022 22:22
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kimbo305 posted:Can't you get some 35s, or 38s? 5mm would be enough for me anyways. 38's is only 2mm less height and 1mm less width in each side. I want to be sure so I'll try 32's next. Also the fender doesn't sit exactly circular. Seems there's less than 5mm in rear so it rubs. Problem is most likely the cargo rack's rear mount which slightly pushes the fender downwards. I'd have to move the rear mount's bend a little bit so I could get the fender to sit a few mm's higher in rear. Then it would be perfectly circular. spf3million posted:lol what happened? I most likely laced them wrong. I tried to remove the nipples and spokes but 20 of them, wouldn't move at all. I could not get them to move at all to any direction. I had no idea why. I did not know that was possible but yes it was possible. It was like someone had welded the spokes and nipples together.
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Sep 4, 2022 22:29
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Did you put any grease/oil on the threads before putting them together?
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Sep 4, 2022 23:14
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LoudPipesSaveLives posted:Did you put any grease/oil on the threads before putting them together? Chain oil, yes. Next wheel I used anti seize. I still don't know what went wrong. What does it matter though? I just need to buy more spokes.
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Sep 4, 2022 23:19
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Did you try to use a screw driver from the outside of the rim? Or just cranking on the nipple from the inside with a spike wrench?
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Sep 4, 2022 23:20
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I will reiterate I appreciate that you are so willing to document this cursed build for our amusement
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Sep 4, 2022 23:32
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spf3million posted:Did you try to use a screw driver from the outside of the rim? Or just cranking on the nipple from the inside with a spike wrench? Yes. I tried a fitting screwdriver, first small, than large handle. No go.  bicievino posted:I will reiterate I appreciate that you are so willing to document this cursed build for our amusement It is a learning experience.
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Sep 4, 2022 23:37
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Ihmemies posted:I made an attempt at making a front wheel. Well. This was my first attempt at wheelbuilding ever. I didn't know it was possible to gently caress it up so bad. This thing's gonna look rad as gently caress
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Sep 4, 2022 23:55
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Ihmemies posted:Chain oil, yes. Next wheel I used anti seize. I still don't know what went wrong. What does it matter though? I just need to buy more spokes. It might have contributed to them being so tight you couldn't remove them. Back wheel looks good
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Sep 4, 2022 23:58
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All right, so now I'm still looking for a 1" English threaded headset with ISO crown race and it looks like my next lead is a modern stronglight a9, but just waiting for confirmation that the one I'm looking at is the right dimensions. My understanding is that the typical 1" headsets have English, French or Italian threading and the English threading can have crown race standards of ISO or JIS. French threading headsets are just completely out because they're not actually 1" (25mm instead of 25.4mm, i think?) and Italian is sort of compatible, but will alter the threads. The JIS 27mm crown race ones are too big, so it's pretty narrow what I'm looking for and everyone's basically been cutting new production of these headsets aside from the current one from velo orange, where the bearing is just loose in the bottom cup on the most recent batch. Are there any models you can recommend I look out for?
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Sep 5, 2022 02:07
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You just need a threaded headset with a 26.4 crown race? Depending how fancy you go, the ones on this page should run the range of $15 to $80 from a bike shop: https://www.jbi.bike/site/search_us...tpi%7CEC30%2F26 Most of them look like caged bearings instead of cartridge. If you really need cartidge, there is Chris King. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Sep 5, 2022 |
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Sep 5, 2022 05:30
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CopperHound posted:Most of them look like caged bearings instead of cartridge. If you really need cartidge, there is Chris King. I think there's a tange or dia-compe too for a lot less than a Chris King.
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Sep 5, 2022 05:56
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Yeah, the problem has just been finding something that's in stock if I'm looking for new. I think the origin8 is a good backup if I can't find anything a little fancier, and the shop I'm having work on it has one. Trying to sift through a lot of the eBay listings that don't specify what the threading is has been tiresome.
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Sep 5, 2022 12:52
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The rainy season is approaching and I really don't want to ride my 25kg Gazelle monstrosity with a 7 speed nexus anymore. It was fine for riding on Dutch bike infrastructure (pancake flat and immaculate tarmac) in a suit, not so much in the city I live in now. Hence (apologies for the non-english link), how does this look for an all purpose city/commuting/day-trip touring bike in terms of value and suitability? https://www.trenga.de/GLS-5.0/89490#wizard-step-0 Checks a lot of the boxes I want in such a bike: hydraulic discs no suspension dynamo hub pannier rack fully equipped (fenders, lights) etc. flat bars and the price seems ok for the components. Plus, they apparently still have stock, which is a big plus. I also liked the Cube SL Road, but can't find it in stock anywhere: https://www.cube.eu/en/2022/bikes/urban-mobility/fitness/sl-road/cube-sl-road-race-fe-bluenblue/
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Sep 5, 2022 15:40
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That Trenga looks really good to me. The cassette has a bit narrow range (11-28) but with the 46/30 chainrings it's not too much of a problem. If the lowest gear isn't low enough that's a relatively inexpensive thing to fix.
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Sep 5, 2022 15:56
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MrL_JaKiri posted:Sadly I had to abandon the LEL due to a foot injury, so what better thing to do once I've just about recovered than cycle a little over 250 miles to go visit my mum? Sorry about the injury  . Are you planning on doing PBP next year?
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Sep 5, 2022 19:58
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tarlibone posted:I You definitely can do multicenturies on a steel 650b bike and not necessarily any slower because at that distance, it's more about comfort than speed for most riders. I do brevets faster on my newer titanium bike but that's also down to my overall fitness moreso than specific bike.
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Sep 5, 2022 20:02
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Tried to squeeze in 16 1/2 miles even though the sky was threatening rain. Bought some new socks and crotch cream, hopped on the bike, and enjoyed 15 miles of mostly dry weather. Then the heavens gently, teasingly even, opened.
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Sep 5, 2022 20:06
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Havana Affair posted:That Trenga looks really good to me. The cassette has a bit narrow range (11-28) but with the 46/30 chainrings it's not too much of a problem. If the lowest gear isn't low enough that's a relatively inexpensive thing to fix. The gearing will be fine, I’m pretty sure. If I do end up touring with it, I might put on a larger cassette, but for the city terrain it should be ok. The more I look at it, the more I get The Urge. Called the place today and apparently they’re unable to source cranks so unless I pick one of the floor models, it’s going to be several months wait. 
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Sep 5, 2022 21:37
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Shadowhand00 posted:You definitely can do multicenturies on a steel 650b bike and not necessarily any slower because at that distance, it's more about comfort than speed for most riders. I do brevets faster on my newer titanium bike but that's also down to my overall fitness moreso than specific bike. Good to know. I don't know if I've seen this opinion before. When I've read or watched videos about centuries, it was hard to find one where they're not suggesting bare minimums that are pretty expensive or exotic. When I was function-testing my new bike a couple week ago, the employee helping me told me that he'd recently helped a customer upgrade from his Cypress, a bike on which he'd actually done a century. Just, wow.
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Sep 5, 2022 22:07
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Shadowhand00 posted:You definitely can do multicenturies on a steel 650b bike and not necessarily any slower because at that distance, it's more about comfort than speed for most riders. I do brevets faster on my newer titanium bike but that's also down to my overall fitness moreso than specific bike. My steel rim brake endurance bike is lighter than most modern disc brake bikes and is really comfy. My other road bike is faster and a chunk lighter but it’s perfectly reasonable for long distance cruising and I use it for group rides in winter with mudguards. tarlibone posted:Good to know. I don't know if I've seen this opinion before. When I've read or watched videos about centuries, it was hard to find one where they're not suggesting bare minimums that are pretty expensive or exotic. No definitely not, it just needs to be something you can be comfortable on for however many hours you need to ride the distance. More benefit in making sure your fit is right, your saddle doesn’t chafe and you have enough food (or stops planned) that it stays pleasant and fun vs a slog.
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Sep 5, 2022 23:15
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tarlibone posted:Good to know. I don't know if I've seen this opinion before. When I've read or watched videos about centuries, it was hard to find one where they're not suggesting bare minimums that are pretty expensive or exotic. the first tour the france was 6 days of 200 to 300 mile race days on a 18kg steel fixie with wooden weels, no brakes, running 38mm tires, no real drop bars, and no outside assistance. The average speed was around 15.5 mph. That's the same average speed that I reach over a 40 mi ride on a 2 year old fully carbon racebike with good components. Better bikes make you go faster and further more comfortably (most of the time), but any ol' bike that you can get moving without it falling apart will eventually make it hundreds of miles in a day if you just keep pedalling. 24 hours of 8.5 mph riding will get you two centuries in a day!
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Sep 6, 2022 00:01
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https://www.renehersecycles.com/getting-your-bike-ready-for-randonneuring/ This is more about the progression of what you need on a bike for various distances. You can do long distance on anything. https://youtu.be/3xP4aYIDby8 A friend who recently passed did a huge amount of ultra distance on steel fixies. https://imgur.io/a/mMjxhQ7 These are my two long distance bikes. One's a bit faster (probably about 3-4 hours faster on a 600k) than the other but both get me to the destination comfortably and reliably. Shadowhand00 fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Sep 6, 2022 |
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Sep 6, 2022 00:21
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tarlibone posted:Good to know. I don't know if I've seen this opinion before. When I've read or watched videos about centuries, it was hard to find one where they're not suggesting bare minimums that are pretty expensive or exotic. I've done multiple centuries on my Trek 520 with both front and back racks. It weighs a lot and is not aero and I certainly won't be setting any speed records but it's certainly possible to do on a heavy bike that's comfortable to ride.
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Sep 6, 2022 01:14
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I'd rather ride a century on my steel road+ bike than my old carbon race bike. Trade a little speed for comfort makes for going further for longer. If I was specifically going out on a big climbing century I might reconsider, but for most rec riding it's about the endurance and stamina not the top speed.
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Sep 6, 2022 01:34
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This all makes me want to tackle a century. Probably not this year, but it's something to work for next year. I'm one trail short of this year's goal, which is to go end-to-end on all of the trails maintained by my local county transit authority. I'm finding that my Contend AR is remarkably comfortable. Maybe more so than my Escape. I have to take back everything I ever thought or said about drop handlebars.
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Sep 6, 2022 04:05
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