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afflictionwisp
Aug 26, 2003

cubicle gangster posted:

is there a high pressure one that can handle both?

taqueso posted:

e: a shock pump is different than a tire pump and I've never seen anything dual purpose. The shock will need to be pumped up to something like 200psi.

This, max pressure will depend on the fork, and the right pressure for you will depend on body weight. Ask the shop to give you tips on finding the right pressure when you get is serviced. Once the petty cash is replenished, get a new floor pump with a pressure gauge, also. Tire pressure will make a big difference in how that bike behaves, and you want that to be consistent, too.

afflictionwisp fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Sep 4, 2022

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cubicle gangster
Jun 26, 2005

magda, make the tea
Thanks for the info on the forks/pump!

taqueso posted:

It's an awesome feeling when you improve and can ride up things you've previously had to walk. Just ride a little more each time.

I'm looking forward to that, these being my local trails I know I'll be re-riding then again and again.
My watch got this set of 3 beginner trails logged, with a graph of my speed (slow) & heart rate (high). Kind of wish I could export this in some way and build data viz from every time I ride the same loop.

stratdax
Sep 14, 2006

Frozen Pizza Party posted:

How can I keep my back end from wanting to and/or washing out in berms?

You WANT your back end sliding out. It's called shralping, and it's cool.

cubicle gangster posted:

It's a large and i'm 5'10 - puts me at the bottom range of needing a large, but based on measuring and trying to decipher information, I think I picked up that older geometry I may lean more towards a large, but newer geometry I could end up preferring medium - is that right?


Every brand is different, and even within the same brand different models fit differently. One brand's "L" can be another brand's (Norco) "XL".
Don't worry about geo, angles, degrees, any of it. People were sending huuuge stuff 20 years ago on pieces of junk. Your skill will not be limited by a 1 degree difference in head tube angle. If you sit on a bike and it feels too cramped, (knees bonking into hands when you're turning is an easy tell), it's too small. Up until a week ago I was riding a 2008 Norco Shore. It was fine. By the time you're experienced enough where those small geo differences will make a difference, you'll be experienced enough to know what they mean.

stratdax
Sep 14, 2006

Look at the difference between my old bike and new bike:


Pretty much as different as you can get. I have so much time on my old one that I can tell where the differences are in the geo, and yet, it hasn't changed what I'm able to ride, or how well I can ride, at all. Only experience and technique does that. Find something in your budget that feels like it fits and you're balanced, and you'll be fine. You'll know if it's too small, don't overthink it.

(Literally the only reason I got a new bike is because the seals on my old forks finally failed, and my entire derailleur assembly exploded, on the same day).

stratdax fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Sep 4, 2022

stratdax
Sep 14, 2006

Hey Velocibacon do you want a free 2008 norco shore frame and Fox Van R shock?
Or possibly 26" wheels and tires? The hub is a couple years old. 150mm axle spacing.
I'm not going to bother trying to sell it for $50 or whatever, but I don't just want to throw it in the dumpster.

cubicle gangster
Jun 26, 2005

magda, make the tea
I find the massively varied placements of the back spring on a dual suspension bike kind of hilarious. Everyone has a different position for it - sometimes the same brand has multiple positions for it! Surely someone has managed to figure out the ideal rotation point and spring position by now??

I thought buying a hardtail was a minefield of microscopic nuance.

stratdax
Sep 14, 2006

cubicle gangster posted:

I find the massively varied placements of the back spring on a dual suspension bike kind of hilarious. Everyone has a different position for it - sometimes the same brand has multiple positions for it! Surely someone has managed to figure out the ideal rotation point and spring position by now??

I thought buying a hardtail was a minefield of microscopic nuance.

75% of it is marketing, the remaining 25% is aesthetics. They'll throw all sorts of buzzwords at you to make you think this is what you need to buy to be a decent rider but at this point every brand has figured out the kinematics well enough that they can put the shock mount points anywhere they like and build the pivot points to accommodate it. You could wear a blindfold and point to a random bike in the shop and you'll probably be okay. The wildest are high pivot bikes. Look at this thing. I rode one with the wireless axs shifters and it was like I was riding the Batbike. Literally the only reason to get any of that is because it's cool.


stratdax fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Sep 4, 2022

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Is there some kind of advantage to deliberately building a bike in a way that mandates having one of those extra pulleys for the chain?

stratdax
Sep 14, 2006

Slavvy posted:

Is there some kind of advantage to deliberately building a bike in a way that mandates having one of those extra pulleys for the chain?

The manufacturer will tell you there is!
What it does is lengthen the wheelbase on compression, rather than shorten it. Is that an advantage? Dunno. Words like "stability" get thrown around in the marketing copy. It feels different, but you'd have to be pretty drat in tune with your bike and with the trail for that to make a discernible difference in your riding. But it's not like all the world cup racers are riding these, sooo...

Most of the people I see riding any huge modern bike... well let's just say people tend to wildly overestimate the equipment they need.

Edit: anyway that's my rant for the night.

stratdax fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Sep 4, 2022

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires
It's all marketing, the perfect suspension design was the Ibis Bow Ti. Go ahead, find the pivots

Only registered members can see post attachments!

stratdax
Sep 14, 2006

It's beautiful. Everything about it is amazing.
Ghost Edit: Tubeless??????

Here's Jeff Kendall-Weed ripping on an even lesser bike, the Mojo Ti
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8BsnI_iAGQ&t=214s

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

stratdax posted:

The manufacturer will tell you there is!
What it does is lengthen the wheelbase on compression, rather than shorten it. Is that an advantage? Dunno. Words like "stability" get thrown around in the marketing copy. It feels different, but you'd have to be pretty drat in tune with your bike and with the trail for that to make a discernible difference in your riding. But it's not like all the world cup racers are riding these, sooo...

Most of the people I see riding any huge modern bike... well let's just say people tend to wildly overestimate the equipment they need.

Edit: anyway that's my rant for the night.

I get that but I'm not really talking about wheelbase and geometry changes, I'm talking specifically them having that extra pulley in a random place that seems unnecessary in light of RD clutches existing. I've seen several different variations on the theme and there seems to be no clear reason for it.

Dog Case posted:

It's all marketing, the perfect suspension design was the Ibis Bow Ti. Go ahead, find the pivots



*squinting* so...the suspension...is the frame flexing? What happens when you run out of fatigue cycles, the whole bike just goes in the bin? What?

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires

Slavvy posted:

I get that but I'm not really talking about wheelbase and geometry changes, I'm talking specifically them having that extra pulley in a random place that seems unnecessary in light of RD clutches existing. I've seen several different variations on the theme and there seems to be no clear reason for it.

*squinting* so...the suspension...is the frame flexing? What happens when you run out of fatigue cycles, the whole bike just goes in the bin? What?

Titanium has a pretty good fatigue life. The tubes flexing over a fairly large area (the entire down tube half of the down/seat tubes and the entire little seat?? tube thing) and the fact that it had i think less than two inches of travel makes the fatigue life functionally infinite.

Edit: apparently it was around five inches of travel. It still worked out to very little fatigue due to the large flexing area. Ibis also did a lot of fairly advanced computer modeling for such a small company at the time to figure all this stuff out.

Dog Case fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Sep 4, 2022

cubicle gangster
Jun 26, 2005

magda, make the tea
Wow that ibis bike is incredible.
E: Incredible like I can even see that's a loving weird way to design a bike.

Stratdax, I really appreciate your very sincere response. Definitely some positions look cooler.

Honestly I have to reiterate how nice and pleasant all of you guys are. I've posted on this forum for 15 years but thought I had to go somewhere else to get advice on a bike and I was met with eletist wankers. Should've known, I've met long time friends to do with my day job and past times through SA.

And for the record, that guy is still sincerely saying a Walmart special with new forks would be a better buy than this. All or nothing, better to start at nothing.

cubicle gangster fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Sep 4, 2022

stratdax
Sep 14, 2006

Slavvy posted:

I get that but I'm not really talking about wheelbase and geometry changes, I'm talking specifically them having that extra pulley in a random place that seems unnecessary in light of RD clutches existing. I've seen several different variations on the theme and there seems to be no clear reason for it.

This is getting well into the weeds, but the idler pulley is required for high pivot (which is where the bottom pivot is well above the chainring) bikes. It has to do with pedal kickback caused by the upper chainline growth, which is caused by the increase in chainstay length during compression. The RD (clutched or not) compensates for lower chainline growth but it can't help with upper chainline growth. (As that section of chain doesn't interact with the RD at all - without the idler it would be a straight shot between your chainring and cassette).

I'm fairly sure a clutch just eliminates chain slap and dropped chains caused by a bouncing chain overcoming RD spring tension when going over bumps and isn't designed or intended to deal with upper chainline growth, but now we are getting passed the weeds and into the woods here.

stratdax fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Sep 4, 2022

stratdax
Sep 14, 2006

cubicle gangster posted:

Honestly I have to reiterate how nice and pleasant all of you guys are. I've posted on this forum for 15 years but thought I had to go somewhere else to get advice on a bike and I was met with eletist wankers. Should've known, I've met long time friends to do with my day job and past times through SA.

It's like that in any expensive sport or hobby, unfortunately. Elitist jerks who've spent waaaay too much money and feel like if you don't, you're doing it wrong, because otherwise they wouldn't be justified in spending that much.
But, like, Jimi Hendrix didn't get good at playing guitar because he started with a 10 thousand dollar setup.

stratdax fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Sep 4, 2022

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Dog Case posted:

Titanium has a pretty good fatigue life. The tubes flexing over a fairly large area (the entire down tube half of the down/seat tubes and the entire little seat?? tube thing) and the fact that it had i think less than two inches of travel makes the fatigue life functionally infinite.

Edit: apparently it was around five inches of travel. It still worked out to very little fatigue due to the large flexing area. Ibis also did a lot of fairly advanced computer modeling for such a small company at the time to figure all this stuff out.

Yeah thinking about this later I realized that if it were a bike made of spring steel it'd be no problem at all, it's basically got like a weird form of torsion bar suspension. The hysteresis of the metal would also have an interesting effect on damping, it seems like the bike would have some of the best of both worlds in that you'd get most of the efficiency of a hard tail but with much increased comfort over small bumps and better ~*stability*~ over rough descents. One day I will have a Ti bike of some kind because it seems like a good compromise between steel (real but heavy) and aluminum (light but untrustworthy).

stratdax posted:

This is getting well into the weeds, but the idler pulley is required for high pivot (which is where the bottom pivot is well above the chainring) bikes. It has to do with pedal kickback caused by the upper chainline growth, which is caused by the increase in chainstay length during compression. The RD (clutched or not) compensates for lower chainline growth but it can't help with upper chainline growth. (As that section of chain doesn't interact with the RD at all - without the idler it would be a straight shot between your chainring and cassette).

I'm fairly sure a clutch just eliminates chain slap and dropped chains caused by a bouncing chain overcoming RD spring tension when going over bumps and isn't designed or intended to deal with upper chainline growth, but now we are getting passed the weeds and into the woods here.

Honestly that makes sense now that you've explained it, if the wheelbase lengthens with swingarm compression you would definitely have to account for the upper chain run going loose and causing trouble, I can't tell from the pictures if that pulley is a tensioner or just a guide though.

cubicle gangster posted:

And for the record, that guy is still sincerely saying a Walmart special with new forks would be a better buy than this. All or nothing, better to start at nothing.

This is just deranged, does he think every model year is a revolution? Or that Walmart are running cutting edge tech and design from 2 years ago? Wtf.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Finally tracked down a new xc hardtail. I've been trying to get one for awhile now and we picked up trek after the shop that previously carried them closed. The hei hei has been great but it's just a little heavy and sluggish for our races that go straight up a moutain and a lot of our trails are pretty smooth. And I put tons of miles on that thing and it's fairly high maintenance.

So here it is. Not that exciting.



Nice thing with trek is they have a good ep program and let you backorder anything. Put in the paper work at the end of july when the bike had an eta for late sept and it showed up on friday.

Paint is kind of greenish up close



hubs, seat rails, grip clamps have an oil slick thing going



That's all coming off because it's not that nice of a build spec and is a bit heavier than what I'm going for. The new fancy bontrager wheels will help although our scale measures them heavier than the listed weight



Also have some level ultimates, xx1 cranks, a fox transfer sl ready to go for it. Need to order a fork (going with a sid sl), and then figure out the drivetrain. xx1 mechanical bits are out of stock right now so I'm thinking about putting gx axs on my hei hei and then putting the xo1 shifter/gx rd on the procaliber until I can get a new derailleur.

jamal fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Sep 4, 2022

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




cubicle gangster posted:


Honestly I have to reiterate how nice and pleasant all of you guys are. I've posted on this forum for 15 years but thought I had to go somewhere else to get advice on a bike and I was met with eletist wankers. Should've known, I've met long time friends to do with my day job and past times through SA.

And for the record, that guy is still sincerely saying a Walmart special with new forks would be a better buy than this. All or nothing, better to start at nothing.

That guy is dumb. It's an entry hard tail but Walmart bikes will loving snap in two on any actual mountain bike trail. People are real snobby about some things. Riding a decent bike now is better than riding whatever internet nerd's ideal bike in... however long it takes to save up for it takes. You can always sell it for not much less than what you paid down the road and upgrade as you see fit if you end up digging the sport.

in a well actually
Jan 26, 2011

dude, you gotta end it on the rhyme

I am just baffled at a bike snob recommending a Wal-Mart bike over a few year old Trek mtb. Even on Reddit I think you’d be laughed out of r/mtb with that recommendation.

Costco Intense 951 maybe but they tend to sell to a more affluent market.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
Hi mtb thread, I am roadie with a 90s mtb that I converted to drop bars for gravel/under-biking. I realized it's not very fun to ride like that so I want to go back to straight bars to ride around in the local dirt. I currently have a 10 speed 11x36 setup going using the original deore xt 8sp rear derailleur and a set of 105 road shifters. Triple crank in the front. What mtb shifters do I need that won't be poo poo to ride but isn't dura ace / dentist level? Thinking like a 105 equivalent.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

jamal posted:

Finally tracked down a new xc hardtail. I've been trying to get one for awhile now and we picked up trek after the shop that previously carried them closed. The hei hei has been great but it's just a little heavy and sluggish for our races that go straight up a moutain and a lot of our trails are pretty smooth. And I put tons of miles on that thing and it's fairly high maintenance.

So here it is. Not that exciting.



Looks cool, what's this thing? Looks almost like an allen bolt or a small pivot but I can't see what it might be doing?

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



VelociBacon posted:

Looks cool, what's this thing? Looks almost like an allen bolt or a small pivot but I can't see what it might be doing?



It’s the IsoSpeed decoupler

vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain

spf3million posted:

Hi mtb thread, I am roadie with a 90s mtb that I converted to drop bars for gravel/under-biking. I realized it's not very fun to ride like that so I want to go back to straight bars to ride around in the local dirt. I currently have a 10 speed 11x36 setup going using the original deore xt 8sp rear derailleur and a set of 105 road shifters. Triple crank in the front. What mtb shifters do I need that won't be poo poo to ride but isn't dura ace / dentist level? Thinking like a 105 equivalent.

Slx id suppose if xt is ultegra and xtr is dura ace. Sram you’d be looking at GX stuff.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

It’s the IsoSpeed decoupler

Am I being made fun of or what does that do?

afflictionwisp
Aug 26, 2003

VelociBacon posted:

Am I being made fun of or what does that do?

It is a Trek thing. The seat tube isn't connected to the top tube and seat stays. There's a small axle there through the seat tube, and a couple bearings in the top tube. It is supposed to allow the seat tube to flex a bit. I have it on my road bike. It's nice for absorbing small vibrations, but I am not sure it would do much for things on a typical XC trail that wouldn't already be smoothed out by MTB tires.

afflictionwisp fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Sep 5, 2022

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
The whole rear end and seat tube do flex noticeably if I lean on the saddle and push on it. I guess we'll see how much I notice while riding.

jamal fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Sep 5, 2022

cubicle gangster
Jun 26, 2005

magda, make the tea

Suburban Dad posted:

. People are real snobby about some things. Riding a decent bike now is better than riding whatever internet nerd's ideal bike in... however long it takes to save up for it takes.

Yeah the thing is, if mountain biking was a 2.5k minimum entry point pastime... I would just not do it.
I mostly just want to have a fun thing to do on weekends that's a little exciting and interesting so on Friday nights I'll say to myself 'you know what, I won't drink tonight, because I want to go for a ride in the morning'

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
Edit: nm, figured it out

spf3million fucked around with this message at 06:21 on Sep 6, 2022

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$

Singletrack is hard, y'all. I did maybe a quarter mile of it today, my friend said "that must not have been used at all, those rocks were pretty bad". The rest we did on gravel. I'll have to keep getting out and practicing.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~
Hey y’all, my wife and I have gone pretty hard into MTB this summer, riding the poo poo out of local trails in SE Michigan. Our local stuff - river ends, Stony, DTE don’t have huge elevation but there are still some fun jump lines and fast downhill components. But a lot of climbing. A lot.

Ive been riding a pretty stock polygon d6. My wife is on an old giant boulder SE hard tail with dry rotted tires and like 70mm front travel. She’s starting to get too fast (and riding single black diamonds) that she is outrunning her old shitbox.

She’s not in a position to buy a new bike but I’m considering upgrading and giving her my d6, which fits her great. There are a handful of local and internet Ibis ripmo AF Deores for mid 2k ish.

I know that’s a hell of a bike for the money, but my concern is that I will have too much suspensIon and be too downhill oriented for my local trails. Will the suspension adjustments allow me to still climb effectively? my preference would be a Ripley AF but they are harder to find on sale.

PoorPeteBest
Oct 13, 2005

We're not hitchhiking anymore! We're riding!

PaintVagrant posted:

Hey y’all, my wife and I have gone pretty hard into MTB this summer, riding the poo poo out of local trails in SE Michigan. Our local stuff - river ends, Stony, DTE don’t have huge elevation but there are still some fun jump lines and fast downhill components. But a lot of climbing. A lot.

Ive been riding a pretty stock polygon d6. My wife is on an old giant boulder SE hard tail with dry rotted tires and like 70mm front travel. She’s starting to get too fast (and riding single black diamonds) that she is outrunning her old shitbox.

She’s not in a position to buy a new bike but I’m considering upgrading and giving her my d6, which fits her great. There are a handful of local and internet Ibis ripmo AF Deores for mid 2k ish.

I know that’s a hell of a bike for the money, but my concern is that I will have too much suspensIon and be too downhill oriented for my local trails. Will the suspension adjustments allow me to still climb effectively? my preference would be a Ripley AF but they are harder to find on sale.

I just grabbed one for 25% off from the Backcountry Labor Day sale: https://www.backcountry.com/ibis-ripley-af-deore-mountain-bike?CMP_SKU=IBSB07H&MER=0406&skid=IBSB07H-MONSIL-L

*insert too much money on this idiot sport noises here*

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

PaintVagrant posted:

Hey y’all, my wife and I have gone pretty hard into MTB this summer, riding the poo poo out of local trails in SE Michigan. Our local stuff - river ends, Stony, DTE don’t have huge elevation but there are still some fun jump lines and fast downhill components. But a lot of climbing. A lot.

Ive been riding a pretty stock polygon d6. My wife is on an old giant boulder SE hard tail with dry rotted tires and like 70mm front travel. She’s starting to get too fast (and riding single black diamonds) that she is outrunning her old shitbox.

She’s not in a position to buy a new bike but I’m considering upgrading and giving her my d6, which fits her great. There are a handful of local and internet Ibis ripmo AF Deores for mid 2k ish.

I know that’s a hell of a bike for the money, but my concern is that I will have too much suspensIon and be too downhill oriented for my local trails. Will the suspension adjustments allow me to still climb effectively? my preference would be a Ripley AF but they are harder to find on sale.

I am based in Denver but back in Michigan for a few weeks. I brought my Trek Fuel Ex8 (140/130 travel) and the GF her Liv intrigue (150/150 travel). We both ride with them fully opened,. Modern bikes climb really well with the shocks open, even on 2000' climbs I never lock it out back in Colorado. The ripmo might be "more bike" than you need but it will be a lot of fun, climb really well, and be great for going elsewhere (UP/northern michigan, Brown County, East coast, rockies, etc.).

I rode all the SE michigan trails on a HT back in the 00s but it is just way more fun on a FS.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~

spwrozek posted:

I am based in Denver but back in Michigan for a few weeks. I brought my Trek Fuel Ex8 (140/130 travel) and the GF her Liv intrigue (150/150 travel). We both ride with them fully opened,. Modern bikes climb really well with the shocks open, even on 2000' climbs I never lock it out back in Colorado. The ripmo might be "more bike" than you need but it will be a lot of fun, climb really well, and be great for going elsewhere (UP/northern michigan, Brown County, East coast, rockies, etc.).

I rode all the SE michigan trails on a HT back in the 00s but it is just way more fun on a FS.

PoorPeteBest posted:

I just grabbed one for 25% off from the Backcountry Labor Day sale: https://www.backcountry.com/ibis-ripley-af-deore-mountain-bike?CMP_SKU=IBSB07H&MER=0406&skid=IBSB07H-MONSIL-L

*insert too much money on this idiot sport noises here*


Welp glad we all agree, I bought this locally "used" (ridden maybe 50 miles, looks brand new) not long after posting. :lmao:

Even came with the fancy Ibis hardcover owners manual. My Wife is very happy with her upgrade from jalopy hardtail to my Polygon, too.

Car Hater
May 7, 2007

wolf. bike.
Wolf. Bike.
Wolf! Bike!
WolfBike!
WolfBike!
ARROOOOOO!
I lock my suspension out and ride tree farm etc, also on a fuel ex 8 , the same 140/140 that I take to lift-assist. Goes fine, if a bit huff n puff getting uphill. The question of "is this bike too much" is actually finance based, as after a certain point you should just get two, one for trail and one for park


e; Oh choice! Looks like you need to go get some green grips and some local brewery stickers, join up with Metro Detroit Mountain Bikers on Meetup/FB and you'll have fistfuls in no time

Car Hater fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Sep 6, 2022

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~

Car Hater posted:

I lock my suspension out and ride tree farm etc, also on a fuel ex 8 , the same 140/140 that I take to lift-assist. Goes fine, if a bit huff n puff getting uphill. The question of "is this bike too much" is actually finance based, as after a certain point you should just get two, one for trail and one for park


e; Oh choice! Looks like you need to go get some green grips and some local brewery stickers, join up with Metro Detroit Mountain Bikers on Meetup/FB and you'll have fistfuls in no time

Nice, I will find that group and join

PoorPeteBest
Oct 13, 2005

We're not hitchhiking anymore! We're riding!

PaintVagrant posted:

Welp glad we all agree, I bought this locally "used" (ridden maybe 50 miles, looks brand new) not long after posting. :lmao:

Even came with the fancy Ibis hardcover owners manual. My Wife is very happy with her upgrade from jalopy hardtail to my Polygon, too.



Siiiiiiiick

Mexican Radio
Jan 5, 2007

mombo with your jombo?
I commend this poster for understanding that a partner in need of an upgrade is, in fact, a great reason to buy a new bike for yourself.

Also is this the same polygon d6? Full suspension, shimano 1x and hydraulic brakes, modern geo, dropper, boost through axle.. that’s a heck of a bike for $1200.

https://www.bikesonline.com/2022-polygon-siskiu-d6-dual-suspension-mountain-bike

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum

PaintVagrant posted:

Welp glad we all agree, I bought this locally "used" (ridden maybe 50 miles, looks brand new) not long after posting. :lmao:

Even came with the fancy Ibis hardcover owners manual. My Wife is very happy with her upgrade from jalopy hardtail to my Polygon, too.



Good poo poo. The vast majority of modern enduro bikes are designed to be comfortable to pedal uphill so "too much bike" isn't really a thing anymore. I regularly do 40km, 1300m days on my 175mm travel 62.5 degree head angle beast that weighs like 17kgs and it's totally fine.

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numptyboy
Sep 6, 2004
somewhat pleasant

stratdax posted:

The manufacturer will tell you there is!
What it does is lengthen the wheelbase on compression, rather than shorten it. Is that an advantage? Dunno. Words like "stability" get thrown around in the marketing copy. It feels different, but you'd have to be pretty drat in tune with your bike and with the trail for that to make a discernible difference in your riding. But it's not like all the world cup racers are riding these, sooo...

Most of the people I see riding any huge modern bike... well let's just say people tend to wildly overestimate the equipment they need.

Edit: anyway that's my rant for the night.


Same. The bike is cool and is probably really good, but imo i feel like the extra pulley ( especially on an ebduro style bike) is probably going to invite way more wear and maintenance than a more 'traditional' designs. Ive never felt like pedal kick back adversely affects my riding to any great degree. I way more limited by skill level.
I will say one thing; the last time I broke my hanger at the start of a flowy descent and had to run chainless the whole way down I felt pretty fuckin fast I'm assuming as I needed to pump more and maintain the flow than my suspension working better.

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