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Oh poo poo we do old tools in here? Have a big ‘ol Mauser wrench: 
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Sep 6, 2022 19:58
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| # ? May 29, 2024 00:36 |
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I'm probably not the only person with a memory like this but I remember my dad managing to drill a hole in his thumb with one of the push drills like that. I was maybe 5 so no idea how, other than presumably he was being stupid with it.
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Sep 6, 2022 20:03
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tangy yet delightful posted:I'm probably not the only person with a memory like this but I remember my dad managing to drill a hole in his thumb with one of the push drills like that. I was maybe 5 so no idea how, other than presumably he was being stupid with it. There's a garagejournal thread about it where someone contributes a similar and extremely believable anecdote. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/know-anything-about-this-craftsman-screwdriver.247644/ posted:Back when my dad was in the Navy (in charge of the Maintenance Dept at NAS Willow Grove, PA the time, IIRC) the Government purchased a bunch of these for aircraft repair.
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Sep 6, 2022 20:14
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A 100’ steel tape that old is probably a surveyor’s tape.
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Sep 6, 2022 20:45
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withak posted:A 100’ steel tape that old is probably a surveyor’s tape. Could be! I don't know enough about surveying to speak with authority one way or the other, but I do know that 16 1/2 feet is a magic number in that trade (length of one rod). You can see this in some of the tape length options (33 feet is two rods, 66 feet is 4 rods), so a 100 foot tape is 6 rods (99 feet) plus 1 foot. 100 feet seems like a convenient length for that purpose, note the 33 and 66 feet length options in the catalog. I do not see any specific markings or callouts (either printed or drawn on) at the 16'6" mark or 33' mark on the tape.  Also note the black finish on the steel being described as "Nubian" 
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Sep 6, 2022 20:59
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Got a question for you all. I saw a wine rack, and it looks like a fun project to see if I could recreate it. My skill set isn’t particularly broad right now, but this would be a good way to practice using a bunch of tools I’m not super good with yet. However, I can’t figure out how this was done:   Is there a wide router bit I’m not aware of? Would they have used a drill to make the edges, and then router the rest? Something else entirely?
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Sep 7, 2022 02:51
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Schiavona posted:Got a question for you all. I saw a wine rack, and it looks like a fun project to see if I could recreate it. My skill set isn’t particularly broad right now, but this would be a good way to practice using a bunch of tools I’m not super good with yet. I'm just taking a stab in the dark here but I'd assume it's done using two router bits. One straight bit to make a track down the center, and then something like a dovetail bit with a guide bearing to follow the track and widen out the sides/back.
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Sep 7, 2022 03:07
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That's a stemware rack and absolutely not a beginner project due to the depth of cut.
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Sep 7, 2022 03:10
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canyoneer posted:It is highly recommended if you are a Blues Brother on the lam and need to quickly remove an elevator panel Funny, I've seen the tool dozens and dozens of times in my life, laying in garages and old barns and stuff, but the Blues Brothers is literally the only time I've seen one used.
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Sep 7, 2022 03:15
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canyoneer posted:Could be! I don't know enough about surveying to speak with authority one way or the other, but I do know that 16 1/2 feet is a magic number in that trade (length of one rod). "Nubian" Mostly I was thinking that a surveyor was (and still is) the only person who needs to care about measuring things ~100 feet in length.
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Sep 7, 2022 03:16
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Schiavona posted:Got a question for you all. I saw a wine rack, and it looks like a fun project to see if I could recreate it. My skill set isn’t particularly broad right now, but this would be a good way to practice using a bunch of tools I’m not super good with yet. My guess is that's done with a shaper, which is not a beginner tool in terms of safety or price. If I was going to make something like that, I'd make it out of separate pieces -- make dividers and attach them to the bottom of a flat panel.
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Sep 7, 2022 03:38
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Give me a six pack and a ryobi router and let me get at this.
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Sep 7, 2022 03:39
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Sandwich three layers of wood and shape the corners? Nail a stop in your table to create even depth? Seems pretty simple if you take the time to jig and secure everything and also buy the right router bit
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Sep 7, 2022 11:24
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Soul Dentist posted:Sandwich three layers of wood and shape the corners? Nail a stop in your table to create even depth? Seems pretty simple if you take the time to jig and secure everything and also buy the right router bit This is the easiest / only way to do it if you don't have a shaper. You would still need a tablesaw and some 1/4" thick stock. A pin nailer would be nice to have. Or make everything else just buy a stemware holder that screws on.
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Sep 7, 2022 11:47
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Yeah the rounded angles add some serious steps. I made a simple one with just screw-and-gluing the individual crenellations to a base board. And honestly, since so much of my stemware is different it's nice to have it not so tailored to one profile because more things fit.
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Sep 7, 2022 12:10
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Schiavona posted:Got a question for you all. I saw a wine rack, and it looks like a fun project to see if I could recreate it. My skill set isn’t particularly broad right now, but this would be a good way to practice using a bunch of tools I’m not super good with yet. I have a plunge router bit I use to cut negative-space (haha) pulls with that's almost exactly that cut. The lip may not be quite that extended.... edit- actually, I think it's the same bit. It's a massive 1/2" shank.  yetanotheredit: more falafel please posted:My guess is that's done with a shaper, which is not a beginner tool in terms of safety or price. You can't do that with a shaper. Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Sep 7, 2022 |
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Sep 7, 2022 16:59
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Mr. Mambold posted:I have a plunge router bit I use to cut negative-space (haha) pulls with that's almost exactly that cut. The lip may not be quite that extended.... I'm not a big wood guy, are you able to just plunge right in and go whole hog or do you pocket and then rough with intermediate profiles of bit and only finish with the largest?
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Sep 7, 2022 22:24
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slurm posted:I'm not a big wood guy, are you able to just plunge right in and go whole hog or do you pocket and then rough with intermediate profiles of bit and only finish with the largest? Tool thread: I'm not a big wood guy, can you just plunge right in and go whole hog?
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Sep 7, 2022 22:26
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slurm posted:I'm not a big wood guy, are you able to just plunge right in and go whole hog
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Sep 8, 2022 00:29
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slurm posted:I'm not a big wood guy, are you able to just plunge right in and go whole hog or do you pocket and then rough with intermediate profiles of bit and only finish with the largest? Serious post: yes you'd use a straight bit to remove as much waste as possible, and then you'd start undercutting the sides with the profile bit. You'd still need to take it slow and use a circular pattern (called trochoidal milling in cnc)
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Sep 8, 2022 00:56
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slurm posted:I'm not a big wood guy, are you able to just plunge right in and go whole hog or do you pocket and then rough with intermediate profiles of bit and only finish with the largest? You have to plunge full depth with this bit to where the lip profile will be right- i.e. rounded over. I used a template for the router so it didn't go hog wild if it wanted to, and plunged dead-center so as not to ding the lip profile. Your project seems easier, and you ought to be able to get in there with some sandpaper afterward and clean it up. NomNomNom posted:Serious post: yes you'd use a straight bit to remove as much waste as possible, and then you'd start undercutting the sides with the profile bit. You'd still need to take it slow and use a circular pattern (called trochoidal milling in cnc) This. You can pre-remove waste material with a straight cutter like NomNomNom suggests so that all this cutter needs to do is clean up. And still you want to go slowly clockwise....I think clockwise. This is what one of those bits looks like. https://www.amazon.com/Amana-Carbide-Tipped-Finger-Router/dp/B000P4OF6Q/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B000P4OF6Q&psc=1 I need to go dig mine out and compare now..... Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Sep 8, 2022 |
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Sep 8, 2022 01:39
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withak posted:Mostly I was thinking that a surveyor was (and still is) the only person who needs to care about measuring things ~100 feet in length. Layout for framing of houses, and forming bigger concrete slabs are two other common applications. The biggest tape measures top out at 35' so for anything longer than 30 feet the 100 footer is essential all the surveyors I've seen use the super precise satellite dish GPS with regular tape measures for shorter distances
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Sep 8, 2022 11:24
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I regularly use a 200 foot long vinyl coated steel tape to measure lengths of things (usually retaining walls, sometimes other stuff) and the depths of pier holes. They're also useful to lay out pier alignments for retaining walls. The steel tapes surveyors use would be different, and would have a place for your spring scale at the end so you know you're putting the correct amount of load on it to get accurate measurements. If yours doesn't have a place to hook a scale, it's probably not a surveyors tape.
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Sep 8, 2022 21:19
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Xenix posted:I regularly use a 200 foot long vinyl coated steel tape to measure lengths of things (usually retaining walls, sometimes other stuff) and the depths of pier holes. They're also useful to lay out pier alignments for retaining walls. why do you have to put load on a steel tape, it doesnt stretch does it?
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Sep 8, 2022 23:40
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If I had to guess it would be more for making sure the tape was sufficiently tensioned to be consistently accurate. Like if you've got a tape thats 200 feet long, and stretched all the way out, its surprisingly heavy and awkward to keep it taut enough for an accurate measurement.
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Sep 8, 2022 23:59
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Sag in the tape can change the reading because the tape is curved. That curve is predictable if the tension is known, so they built in a spring that puts a known tension on it so the sag can be compensated for.
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Sep 9, 2022 00:11
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:why do you have to put load on a steel tape, it doesnt stretch does it? Specifically for land surveying, you have to take the sag and stretch of the tape into consideration, especially over longer distances. I did it once in a lab in college and in reality it never happens in the modern era because surveyors have moved on from measuring distances with steel tapes or chains and everything is done with total stations.
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Sep 9, 2022 00:36
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Sep 9, 2022 02:37
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Can you replace a fiberglass hammer handle with a wood one? One way or the other, could anyone point me in the direction of a decent replacement for this?    Found in a shopping cart, so I’m hopeful but not fixated on fixing it up.
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Sep 9, 2022 03:03
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nitsuga posted:Can you replace a fiberglass hammer handle with a wood one? One way or the other, could anyone point me in the direction of a decent replacement for this? In one of the newest farmcraft101 videos he replaced a sledge hammer handle with a fiberglass one. I guess the kit comes with epoxy to affix the head. I don't know about a wood handle but I'm sure one could be carved to shape. Last time I was at home Depot they had wooden handles for sale for full sized sledges but I didn't look to see if they had smaller ones
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Sep 9, 2022 03:15
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nitsuga posted:Can you replace a fiberglass hammer handle with a wood one? One way or the other, could anyone point me in the direction of a decent replacement for this? You can find sledgehammer handles with everything you need from most home improvement stores. You'll want some coarse sandpaper to make the head fit just right. As for how long a handle you want, sledges have long handles so you can hit things at or below the level of your feet and with maximum power. If you're going to be hitting things at working height or thereabouts, a shorty (about 28 inches long) is really really convenient. At my forge we had a 10lb sledge no one used until I cut the handle down, now it gets picked up constantly. If you don't know and you think you kinda might need a sledge someday I'd say cut it down. People are naturally drawn to short handled sledges, I don't really know why.
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Sep 9, 2022 19:28
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here's a link to a 75 year old Black & Decker catalog that i enjoyed reading through. Maybe you'll find it interesting as well http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/101/20564.pdf that 1 1/4" drill must have been an unforgiving beast to use  the notorious hole hawg and other right angle drills were only 1/2"
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Sep 10, 2022 00:44
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I bought the 20” Dewalt Flexvolt chainsaw kit for $479 at Home Depot. I almost bought the 18” flexvolt (tool only) or the 18” Ego. 50% more power, another big battery and the case sold me. Also if I bought a 18” and couldn’t get thought this massive maple I was going to be pissed. It’s very nice the metal felling spikes on both sides of the blade really bite and let you pivot the saw. It really chewed though everything I thought it it including when I barried completely in a downed maple.
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Sep 10, 2022 01:23
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The Big tree in question 
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Sep 10, 2022 15:53
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Was sorting through a drawer in an inherited tool chest and came across some planes. Either my grandpa's or great grandpa's stuff. They seem to be in decent condition and the blades are nice and sharp, but I'd love to clean them up. What's my best route? The big one is marked Bailey No.6, the other just says "made in USA." 
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Sep 10, 2022 21:06
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brugroffil posted:Was sorting through a drawer in an inherited tool chest and came across some planes. Either my grandpa's or great grandpa's stuff. They seem to be in decent condition and the blades are nice and sharp, but I'd love to clean them up. What's my best route? Disassemble. Do what you will with the wood parts. Take some gasoline or wd40 and some 000 steel wool and wipe/buff up the metal parts and just wipe them clean with a rag. If you're going to finish the metal you can if not rub everything down with some oil and plop it back together
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Sep 10, 2022 21:22
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Those things deserve a fresh japanning.
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Sep 11, 2022 02:16
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brugroffil posted:Was sorting through a drawer in an inherited tool chest and came across some planes. Either my grandpa's or great grandpa's stuff. They seem to be in decent condition and the blades are nice and sharp, but I'd love to clean them up. What's my best route? I was doing some plane dating lately and at first glance the no.6 looks extremely old, like pre ww1 old. https://hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/dating_flowchart.php#Types%201-20
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Sep 11, 2022 18:29
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Yeah my great grandpa was born in 1899 so it's a strong possibility. I'm not sure if I have some or if my dad still has them all, but we also have some of his radiator shop tools from the early 20th century. It includes leather working tools because that's what gaskets were made from then! I've also got a lot of my grandpa's tools, and he was an auto mechanic from the 50's until the late 80's or early 90's. I need to take some pictures and post them here for help identifying some of the ones I have no idea about. e: based on that site, it's a type 11 (3 patent dates, small knob), and dates from 1910-1918. brugroffil fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Sep 11, 2022 |
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Sep 11, 2022 21:33
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| # ? May 29, 2024 00:36 |
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brugroffil posted:Yeah my great grandpa was born in 1899 so it's a strong possibility. I'm not sure if I have some or if my dad still has them all, but we also have some of his radiator shop tools from the early 20th century. It includes leather working tools because that's what gaskets were made from then! That's awesome and I just pulled out one of my (mechanic) grandfathers leatherworking tools for my daughter to use to put another hole in a belt. That is the regular sized punch but there are some much larger ones that I assume are imperial bolt hole sizes that I've got packed away in oiled butcher paper in a box somewhere because I have no idea what else to do with them.
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Sep 11, 2022 21:48
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