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That joke is Ariel groaner.
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Sep 2, 2022 18:33
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This reminds me of the time my friend who “knows motorcycles” was looking at the CB750 I’d bought and told me the radiator on it was waaay too small. https://www.ebay.com/itm/373956007714
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Sep 2, 2022 19:40
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I have exactly zero bad feelings about giving money to these people, for sure
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Sep 3, 2022 21:34
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It's time for new brake pads; how dumb would it be to only replace the pads given the disc looks like this?  To clarify, I haven't noticed any pulsing or shaking even when braking hard, it's just worn very unevenly. The other side looks about the same. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 11:36 on Sep 6, 2022 |
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Sep 6, 2022 11:32
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I've got a 1971 Yamaha LT2 here, after 15 years of ownership... It's finally got a problem that doesn't respond to some starter fluid or a carb clean. It's lost spark and I'm looking to replace the points and condensor. That means pulling the flywheel... But what flywheel puller do I need? I already ordered the most common one on Amazon ( the 24/27mm model ) but since I already spent the money, and the points are still in the mail, I'm asking what flywheel puller I should have bought.
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Sep 6, 2022 11:56
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Renaissance Robot posted:It's time for new brake pads; how dumb would it be to only replace the pads given the disc looks like this? If your fingernail gets caught in the ridges you have to replace them afaik.
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Sep 6, 2022 17:53
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Renaissance Robot posted:It's time for new brake pads; how dumb would it be to only replace the pads given the disc looks like this? That's hosed. Nerobro posted:I've got a 1971 Yamaha LT2 here, after 15 years of ownership... It's finally got a problem that doesn't respond to some starter fluid or a carb clean. It's lost spark and I'm looking to replace the points and condensor. That means pulling the flywheel... But what flywheel puller do I need? I already ordered the most common one on Amazon ( the 24/27mm model ) but since I already spent the money, and the points are still in the mail, I'm asking what flywheel puller I should have bought. Got a vernier? Try to measure the thread diameter and go from there, they are usually 1mm thread pitch.
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Sep 6, 2022 18:20
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Aw rats. To recap, the symptom was burning hot rotors and roasted brake pads. Cause was assumed to be misaligned rear wheel and/or brakes dragging. I aligned the wheel, no change in symptoms. Brakes dragging is either mechanical or hydraulic. Couldn’t see anything obviously wrong mechanically with the pedal/pushrod actuating the MC, and the caliper slides freely on the pins and the caliper pistons can return without much trouble, so it was assumed to be a hydraulic problem. The reservoir was not overfilled, but the brake fluid was found to be yellow (DOT3/4) and not purple (DOT5) like it says on the MC reservoir cap, which would cause the MC seals to swell and apply constant pressure on the pads. However, before ripping out the rear MC and rebuilding it, just in case, I did a little science  experiment and pulled some brake fluid out of the reservoir and mixed it with water, and… the fluids stayed separated. So it IS actually DOT5 in there.   (reservoir is low after removing above fluid) Now I’m not sure how to proceed. The MC was rebuilt by the dealership in April of this year (6 months ago), and maybe it’s fine? What can I test next? More notes: Since picking this bike up (6 months ago), the brakes always kinda sucked, and needed a lot of pull at the lever/pedal to result in adequate braking force. I didn’t expect that from a dual-front-caliper setup. The bike is also 17 years old. I don’t know how long the pads have been toast. epswing fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Sep 7, 2022 |
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Sep 7, 2022 00:08
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Here is what I know: The brakes drag You have eliminated mechanical causes The dealership rebuilt the MC QED it's time to rebuild the MC. Consider: what if they used dot4 rated seals?
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Sep 7, 2022 01:00
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Slavvy posted:Consider: what if they used dot4 rated seals? I already purchased a MC rebuild kit from the dealership what if it also has DOT4 seals and I’m doomed to rebuild the MC every 6 months forever  That would be pretty hilarious actually 
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Sep 7, 2022 01:05
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If I test ride something with linked brakes, does that even remotely factor into my consideration when braking? Or is that just a “no, forget it exists, just ride like you were taught and it’ll do what it needs to do” thing?
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Sep 7, 2022 01:51
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some kinda jackal posted:If I test ride something with linked brakes, does that even remotely factor into my consideration when braking? Or is that just a “no, forget it exists, just ride like you were taught and it’ll do what it needs to do” thing? Be mindful of doing the low speed rear brake dragging thing as it can cause the front to grab and make you fall over. Also if you're a habitual heavy trail breaker be prepared for the rear to step out right when you don't want it to. E: why does autocorrect insist and be abs?! Slavvy fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Sep 7, 2022 |
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Sep 7, 2022 02:52
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It’s mostly transparent in my experience, but that experience is with two massive goldwings. Maybe it’s different on smaller bikes
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Sep 7, 2022 03:05
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Alright, thank you. Doubt I will be doing anything taxing during a quick test ride, but I'll be cautious just in case. Some subsequent googling suggests some bikes may only link during front brake use while rear solely works the rear (??), so I guess it somewhat depends on what I'll be testing.
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Sep 7, 2022 11:53
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Linked brakes are a fundamentally dumb and pointless thing and thus there is no 'right' way of making them, meaning there's a variety of exciting wrong and dumb implementations!
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Sep 7, 2022 18:20
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Aren't linked brakes a way to get around not having ABS on like little bikes and scoots in places where abs is required?
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Sep 7, 2022 19:07
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Russian Bear posted:Aren't linked brakes a way to get around not having ABS on like little bikes and scoots in places where abs is required? Yes, because some genius with a power point convinced legislators they were more or less the same thing.
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Sep 7, 2022 19:35
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Slavvy posted:Yes, because some genius with a power point convinced legislators they were more or less the same thing. More likely a company with a wad of cash convinced legislators that it will do.
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Sep 7, 2022 19:41
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They aren’t too intrusive on the vfr, in fact when I’m lazy I don’t even use the rear brake pedal cause I tell myself giving lots of front will activate the back brake. The rear brake has a really aggro abs on it but I’ve never activated it from the front
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Sep 7, 2022 19:54
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The data I have suggests that Hondas implementation is the best, just from people generally not complaining about it. Its a way to get around ABS as well as force boomers to use the front brake
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Sep 7, 2022 20:05
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I don't hate it on my scooter, which is probably the perfect use case. There's just no way to make a cheapish scooter have ABS at a reasonable price point. Especially if you're looking at the 50cc market. Probably even better if it didn't have it at all, but mine has pretty good brakes for what it is.
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Sep 7, 2022 20:08
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The data I have suggests that Hondas implementation is the best, just from people generally not complaining about it. Hondas implementation is consistently the best I agree, they actually think about what it'll be like to use. Even on the scooters it works quite well, a good comparison is the burg vs the silverwing, on the burg the front bite from the rear lever is noticably intrusive imo. The PCX150 probably has the best linked system I've experienced.
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Sep 7, 2022 22:05
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:It’s mostly transparent in my experience, but that experience is with two massive goldwings. Maybe it’s different on smaller bikes I don’t really notice it on the NC750, but that bike is hyper focused on being as unobtrusive as possible.
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Sep 8, 2022 02:23
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Any advice on getting caliper pistons out? Should I pump them (almost) out, drain fluid, remove caliper, then wiggle them out? Or drain the fluid, remove caliper, and hit it with compressed air? I see there's a "brake caliper piston removal tool" that looks like inverted pliers with padding, is that one more "gadget" I don't need, or are these actually the right way to go? Is a set of standard pliers with a rag to protect the piston a big no-no?
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Sep 8, 2022 18:11
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The caliper tool is of limited effectiveness but it definitely helps at the last stage. I pump them out as far as they'll go without popping then take the caliper off and wiggle them out, if one is reluctant I'll keep the rest blocked in and use compressed air to get the stuck one out. Don't try to grab them from the outside with a tool, you'll just gently caress them.
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Sep 8, 2022 18:20
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epswing posted:Any advice on getting caliper pistons out? Should I pump them (almost) out, drain fluid, remove caliper, then wiggle them out? Or drain the fluid, remove caliper, and hit it with compressed air? I see there's a "brake caliper piston removal tool" that looks like inverted pliers with padding, is that one more "gadget" I don't need, or are these actually the right way to go? Is a set of standard pliers with a rag to protect the piston a big no-no? Last time I did the first thing, just make sure all pistons are as far out as you can get them before removing any to make it as easy as possible.
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Sep 8, 2022 18:23
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In my head my plan was to remove the pads, and block the (2) pistons with thinner and thinner pieces of wood, so they come out evenly. I’m not sure how I will know when they’re “almost” out. If I go too far will they just fall out and brake fluid will splash everywhere and they’ll get dinged up and I’ll have to replace them hurray brakes are fun?
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Sep 8, 2022 19:09
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Anyone know where to pick up custom brake lines, or a set of braided stainless lines for my K8 SV650 that have a angled bend in the banjo fitting? I'm planning to buy a radial master cylinder like the Brembo RCS and putting SV1000 calipers on my bike. I have some galfer braided lines, but the straight banjo fitting I think may bind or require a pretty severe bend in the line to go down to the calipers.
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Sep 8, 2022 19:39
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epswing posted:In my head my plan was to remove the pads, and block the (2) pistons with thinner and thinner pieces of wood, so they come out evenly. I’m not sure how I will know when they’re “almost” out. If I go too far will they just fall out and brake fluid will splash everywhere and they’ll get dinged up and I’ll have to replace them hurray brakes are fun? It's not that dramatic cause they move super slowly, if you ding one a little you can clean it up later. If one comes out before you expect, just shove it back in a couple of mm and block it up accordingly until the other one comes out, I often just use the handles of a set of pliers or whatever comes to hand, it's not rocket surgery. They are usually a similar length to their diameter as a rough guide.
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Sep 8, 2022 20:07
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MetaJew posted:Anyone know where to pick up custom brake lines, or a set of braided stainless lines for my K8 SV650 that have a angled bend in the banjo fitting? I installed Galfer lines on my Ninja 250 and HEL on my Ninja 650. HEL seems to have a kit for the K8. Not sure about the specific banjo bolts but you can email the guys and I’m sure they’ll customize it for you. They were really responsive when I contacted them. https://www.helperformance.com/hel-full-length-race-braided-brake-lines-for-suzuki-sv650-n-k3-k8-2003-2008
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Sep 8, 2022 20:11
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MetaJew posted:Anyone know where to pick up custom brake lines, or a set of braided stainless lines for my K8 SV650 that have a angled bend in the banjo fitting? I've used https://www.venhillusa.com/ for custom length lines and variable degree banjos. One caveat is that their line and banjo fittings are specific to their own products i.e. you can't just buy their banjos and use your stock line or vice versa you have to match their lines and their banjos.
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Sep 8, 2022 20:16
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Slavvy posted:It's not that dramatic Talk about anti-climactic... also I was overthinking the multiple-pistons thing, there's only one on the rear.   Question regarding the MC, I was expecting the whole assembly to be straight, is it strange that the MC -- pushrod -- yoke/clevis/pin is at an angle (in the photo the top half is kinked off to the right, or I guess on the bike that would be 'down' towards the ground)? Or is that normal given the bell crank 'swings' to move everything?  Edit: Also just checking, I should be cleaning with brake cleaner, and lubing with brake fluid, yah? epswing fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Sep 9, 2022 |
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Sep 9, 2022 03:36
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You can clean with whatever you like provided you get it surgical, lube with brake fluid or sometimes the seals come with special grease that dissolves in brake fluid. You have to take that rod out to know if it's bent or just pointing to the side, why did you stop??
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Sep 9, 2022 04:42
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epswing posted:Talk about anti-climactic... also I was overthinking the multiple-pistons thing, there's only one on the rear. Remove the dust boot. You'll probably find a joint that allows the rod to wiggle around a bit, that now is just tilted to one side a bit. If the rod is actually bent, it sounds like it's hosed. Check the service manual to see if there are any drawings of the pin, to figure out if it's supposed to be bent. I think it shouldn't but i've seen weirder engineering choices in my life. Cleaning the parts with brake cleaner is fine, but make sure to not get any rubber in contact with brake cleaner, and all of it is completely evaporated and blown out of all passages before assembling. Before assembling, put brake fluid on all internal surfaces, including the rubber seals.
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Sep 9, 2022 09:07
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 it was a 05 sportster right?
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Sep 9, 2022 09:43
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Seems like assembly 24 can wiggle on top of assembly 22.
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Sep 9, 2022 09:48
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That is how basically every rear mc ever made has to work if you stop and think about it yeah
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Sep 9, 2022 09:54
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LimaBiker posted:Cleaning the parts with brake cleaner is fine, but make sure to not get any rubber in contact with brake cleaner, and all of it is completely evaporated and blown out of all passages before assembling. The caliper has a couple rubber dust boots. Is brake cleaner to rubber what (DOT3/4) brake fluid is to paint? Or not a big deal just wipe it off after? I don’t have a good sense of chemicals and their severity of contact with things they shouldn’t come into contact with.
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Sep 9, 2022 13:27
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Brake cleaner will do bad stuff to most kinds of rubber, but it's pretty slow going. It may not be the best idea to leave them soaking in brake cleaner overnight, but if you just spray them with it and wipe them down afterwards it'll be fine.
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Sep 9, 2022 13:52
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| # ? May 16, 2024 12:21 |
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MetaJew posted:Anyone know where to pick up custom brake lines, or a set of braided stainless lines for my K8 SV650 that have a angled bend in the banjo fitting? If you're in the US, Spiegler USA can put together whatever you want in most any color you want. If you just want stainless lines with an angled banjo, look for a hydraulic shop / hydraulic service place near you on your map app of choice. Chances are they can put something together while you wait.
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Sep 9, 2022 15:09
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