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Dr. Fishopolis posted:i run octoprint from an old galaxy s6 i had lying around, works flawlessly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74xdib_-X38 And "here's how" Nerobro fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Sep 9, 2022 |
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Sep 9, 2022 01:39
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I got a stupid big order this morning and am now looking to ramp up my resin capacity a bit. Anyone familiar with the anycubic m3 max? Huge 13 inch screen which would go a long way for larger prints, but I've been rocking elagoo and am not super familiar with how anycubic operates. Very happy with my saturns, but I haven't really investigate the latest and greatest from the different companies
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Sep 9, 2022 01:48
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:i run octoprint from an old galaxy s6 i had lying around, works flawlessly. I have a USB-C otg cable ordered so I can try that method out, too, with an aging Motorola. Most of the over blown poo poo I do is just to kill time. Actually, I’ve got enough old smartphones, I could cludge them together into a wireless security camera network…
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Sep 9, 2022 01:53
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w00tmonger posted:I got a stupid big order this morning and am now looking to ramp up my resin capacity a bit. It looks like a good machine and the automatic resin filling seems like it could be a really good idea for small businesses that are going to be constantly printing and constantly using the same resin, so you may get more benefit from that than most. Does the large bed fit into your post processing and washing set-up? Looks like they have their own software, don't know if you want to be mixing software around, that might be a pain. Not sure if you have to use their software though, I would think you could use anything?
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Sep 9, 2022 01:59
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Bondematt posted:Does the thermistor show it ever reaching temp, or does the temp it is showing just keep climbing? It keeps climbing to 100 and then alarms. I just replaced the mainboard with a new one. After I sent the last one back to Amazon as defective. The replaced mainboard was doing the same thing.
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Sep 9, 2022 02:26
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IncredibleIgloo posted:This picture I found might be helpful, to look and make sure connections B and E are connected correctly. Yup all those are connected correctly.
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Sep 9, 2022 02:29
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Rojo_Sombrero posted:Yup all those are connected correctly. That's super weird. The board should be cutting power when it gets to temp, and certainly if it overtemps. Stock firmware?
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Sep 9, 2022 02:41
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Rojo_Sombrero posted:It keeps climbing to 100 and then alarms. I just replaced the mainboard with a new one. After I sent the last one back to Amazon as defective. The replaced mainboard was doing the same thing. The mainboard controls the heater. If you swapped the heater and the problem remains, the problem is something "you did not change". That's... interesting. This feels like bad firmware.
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Sep 9, 2022 02:46
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Bondematt posted:That's super weird. The board should be cutting power when it gets to temp, and certainly if it overtemps. Yep stock firmware.
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Sep 9, 2022 02:50
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Usually the heater is switched on the low side, so it always has 12 or 24 volts connected and the ground/0v side is connected when it's supposed to turn on. If the heater is somehow shorting to ground through the frame, that could do it. I assume it doesn't heat with both heater wires disconnected. Does it still heat with just one wire connected to the mainboard?
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Sep 9, 2022 02:54
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IncredibleIgloo posted:It looks like a good machine and the automatic resin filling seems like it could be a really good idea for small businesses that are going to be constantly printing and constantly using the same resin, so you may get more benefit from that than most. Does the large bed fit into your post processing and washing set-up? Looks like they have their own software, don't know if you want to be mixing software around, that might be a pain. Not sure if you have to use their software though, I would think you could use anything? The resin fill up seems like it'll come into play the one time I'm truly maxing out the build volume but shouldnt affect things day to day. Software wise, I assume I can use lychee and an sd card but I'll confirm that. As far as cleanup goes, it is huge as hell, but I generally don't wash the full build plate at once so I can work around that Not sure if I can get a flexplatefor something that big (or if I'd even want to) w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Sep 9, 2022 |
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Sep 9, 2022 03:39
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taqueso posted:Usually the heater is switched on the low side, so it always has 12 or 24 volts connected and the ground/0v side is connected when it's supposed to turn on. If the heater is somehow shorting to ground through the frame, that could do it. I assume it doesn't heat with both heater wires disconnected. Does it still heat with just one wire connected to the mainboard? All fixed I did a dumb. I mixed up my power with bed heat cables.
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Sep 9, 2022 04:19
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I learned a while ago that USB cables can cause surprising issues. Most recent example is I bought a short extender cable to make plugging the USB stick into/out of my Prusa Mini a little easier. After installing that cable, I got print weirdness. I don't remember the problems exactly, but known-good stuff started to gently caress up in puzzling ways. I got rid of the cable and hey, problems disappeared. Similar thing happened with an AxiDraw I had. All kinds of glitchy problems, but changed cables and they all disappeared.
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Sep 9, 2022 04:25
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w00tmonger posted:The resin fill up seems like it'll come into play the one time I'm truly maxing out the build volume but shouldnt affect things day to day. Software wise, I assume I can use lychee and an sd card but I'll confirm that. Another option to perhaps think about, and I would have to math it out, is that would it be near the same price, or +-15% to pick up, say, two Saturn 2s instead of theM3? Two Saturn Twos would be about 1100 bucks I think, and would be roughly the same print volume. Obviously you could not do as large single print things, but if you are fulfilling an order that needs 30 orcs or whatever, then you do two plates of 15 on the Saturns or whatever, but if you dont get a big order you have two printers to be pointed at different orders maybe? I don't know the business well enough to weigh in here.
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Sep 9, 2022 05:03
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Rexxed posted:I think with filament dryers you sort of have two options. One is the kind made for filament that holds one roll and can feed out of it in case you need to keep something actively dry like nylon in a humid environment. The other is a food dehydrator which is what the original printdry was made on. I just went with the $40 food dehydrator because it can hold multiple rolls of filament and some silica packs. I just had to clip the mesh out of a couple of the shelves. If I ever did a lot of printing of super hygroscopic filament I'd consider one of the single roll units that you can feed out of. I've got the Sovol dryer (AU$80), it holds two reels. Per my last post, I was kind of annoyed by the fact the outlets for the filament are only on the top; this doesn't work with my LACK enclosure as it has to make a sharp 180 degree bend. It probably would have only cost a few extra cents to make another set of outlets on the side, but  I drilled my own with a step bit (and cleaned up the edges with a file) which is working fine. The timer maxes out at like 9 hours or something, would like the option to leave it on continuously. But overall I'm happy with it so far.
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Sep 9, 2022 07:33
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I'm not sure I even want to figure out what the issue is, this is just magical. Edit: A power cycle fixed it 
Bondematt fucked around with this message at 08:10 on Sep 9, 2022 |
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Sep 9, 2022 07:53
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Bondematt posted:I'm not sure I even want to figure out what the issue is, this is just magical. the new windows logo is amazing
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Sep 9, 2022 13:28
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w00tmonger posted:The resin fill up seems like it'll come into play the one time I'm truly maxing out the build volume but shouldnt affect things day to day. Software wise, I assume I can use lychee and an sd card but I'll confirm that. For my Mega 8k, it’s so big I just hold a tray under the build plate and scrape the models off on to it. As long as I’m sure I get all the chunks of bottom layers off the plate it works nicely.
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Sep 9, 2022 18:42
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Nerobro posted:Remote control is and being able to send prints direct from a slicer is ~critical infrastructure~. And game changing. this is a bunch of steps of insanity and i dont know how your difficulty was this wild i literally ran the raspi installer, put in wifi info, connected it, and hit go. Bondematt posted:I'm not sure I even want to figure out what the issue is, this is just magical. quit printing at a dutch angle
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Sep 9, 2022 19:25
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Deviant posted:this is a bunch of steps of insanity and i dont know how your difficulty was this wild My brand new Neptune 3 is hooked up to an old Pi 2B with a USB wireless dongle and it works flawlessly. The Octoprint UI is a little slower than on a 3B+, but I'm rarely in such a hurry that I can't wait three seconds for a screen to load.
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Sep 9, 2022 19:55
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still seeing this weird diagonal ringing after installing the new hotend on the ender3. No idea what it could be.... Showing up about once an inch. I need to run some pid tuning I forgot to do on swapping things over. Otherwise though, could it be something do do with some extra weight on the carriage with the extra fan/shroud etc? 
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Sep 9, 2022 20:16
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That's probably your spool snagging once per revolution
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Sep 9, 2022 20:30
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Deviant posted:this is a bunch of steps of insanity and i dont know how your difficulty was this wild Getting it up and going.. was easy. My issues with uploading files, and transferring to the SD card are still a thing. Though I haven't checked in the last.. oh.. year. I haven't seen nearly as many posts that relate directly to Octoprints ability to feed gcode fast enough. I've run into "slicer fixes" twice. Once turned into a bugfix in PrusaSlicer. The other.. well... I stopped using Octoprint.
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Sep 9, 2022 20:35
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I am installing filament runout sensor + upgrading the extruder to metal, I have the X axis apart right now. Besides wiping everything down to remove dust buildup, while I have this apart is there anything else I should look at edit:  one of the four locking washers on my Z axis, now where did I put that lock-tite
Hadlock fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Sep 9, 2022 |
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Sep 9, 2022 20:41
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there's zero need to transfer files to the SD with a working octoprint setup. nerobro i think you have a bad cable or a faulty pi, your experience is wildly outside the norm.
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Sep 9, 2022 20:41
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:there's zero need to transfer files to the SD with a working octoprint setup. It's not the cable. It's not the pi. I replaced both. This is what I was running in to. https://chen.do/diagnosing-reduced-print-quality-with-octoprint/ You can do a lot of tweaks there. Or you can upload the file to the printer. Zero need, my rear end. Edit: I also get the feeling there's some defensiveness about OctoPrint. I'm a Patreon of Foosel, so I'm supporting the development of it. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Sep 9, 2022 |
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Sep 9, 2022 20:45
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Nerobro posted:It's not the cable. It's not the pi. I replaced both. i have no idea what that blog post is supposed to prove other than there's also something wrong with that person's octoprint install nobody's defending anything. i'm saying that your experience is unusual because it obviously is. if everyone had similar issues as you're having, nobody would use octoprint. i don't care who you support on patreon.
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Sep 9, 2022 20:54
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insta posted:That's probably your spool snagging once per revolution Yeah it's something like this
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Sep 9, 2022 21:00
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:i have no idea what that blog post is supposed to prove other than there's also something wrong with that person's octoprint install Have you just never run into the atifacting/print quality issues when switching to octoprint? I mean, good for you. But it's a ~known problem~. I'm glad you've never run into it.
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Sep 9, 2022 21:09
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insta posted:That's probably your spool snagging once per revolution so whats the move here? reorient the roll or something? the spool Im printing from is almost empty if thats the issue
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Sep 9, 2022 21:21
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w00tmonger posted:so whats the move here? reorient the roll or something? the spool Im printing from is almost empty if thats the issue I think there's more going on there. Best thing you could do is post a photo of your printer setup. There's.. other things going on with that print.
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Sep 9, 2022 21:26
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Nerobro posted:I think there's more going on there. Best thing you could do is post a photo of your printer setup. There's.. other things going on with that print. Going to see if the carriage was loosened on the rail or something when I installed the nozzle and try a re-print. Fairly normal looking setup. I replaced the spool holder with a printed bearing version up top, and replaced the plastic extruder with a creality metal one. Otherwise its some blowers on a hero me up front, and some extra long extrusions on the z hmmm, actually the piece holding the spool is a bit flat on one side because of how I printed it. Could it be an artifact from that, in combination with me pushing speeds harder with the new hotend/nozzle? Capricorn Bowden?    Ill pull out the bearings and see if there's a difference. Everything in here has been in for a bit, other than the 0.6 nozzle which is fairly new and the hotend. Obviously I'm pushing everything harder now though so maybe its catching up with me w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Sep 9, 2022 |
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Sep 9, 2022 21:34
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what camera/mount combo do people use for their mk3s octoprint setups? everything i've tried is too close or at a bad angle or has various other problems. I'm about to just get a desk clamp with bendy-arm and be done with it.
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Sep 9, 2022 21:46
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w00tmonger posted:I replaced the spool holder with a printed bearing version up top Spool holders that can freewheel without much resistance, like ones with bearings in them, can often be the cause of filament overlapping itself. They'll let the spool rotate further that it needs to while the extruder is pulling, sometimes allowing a coil or three to loosen up, and then as the resulting slack gets taken back up one of those coils can overlap the one that's actually headed for the extruder. Cue much sadness when the whole thing binds up tight as a result. In most cases, you actually want a little bit of tension at the hub, even if it's just the weight of the spool on a stationary holder. The extruder mechanism on most machines is strong enough to pick the entire printer up and hang it off the filament, so a little bit of resistance *shouldn't* cause any issues. An actual snag certainly will though. Not saying it's the actual cause of your problem, but it is definitely something to look out for.
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Sep 9, 2022 21:50
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I wouldn't think the rotation of the spool would be lined up just right to cause lines across every layer of the print at an angle like that. I can't see the different rotation of the spool and the radius of a part lining up that well for that long. I've been noodling the idea of something wrong with the gantry or belts or something but can't come up with something that would shift consistently ever so slightly in the same direction every time at different layer heights.
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Sep 9, 2022 22:01
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bird food bathtub posted:I wouldn't think the rotation of the spool would be lined up just right to cause lines across every layer of the print at an angle like that. I can't see the different rotation of the spool and the radius of a part lining up that well for that long. I've been noodling the idea of something wrong with the gantry or belts or something but can't come up with something that would shift consistently ever so slightly in the same direction every time at different layer heights. Gantry weighing more exaggerating issues with the z screw? Ender 3 only has a single motor on the z,so maybe some gantry sag shifting across as the layers go up and the screen rotates?
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Sep 9, 2022 22:11
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Deviant posted:what camera/mount combo do people use for their mk3s octoprint setups? I have some kind of cheap webcam that I don't remember the brand of right now and a desk clamp with a bendy arm.
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Sep 9, 2022 22:14
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Where can I find the newest firmware for the Ender 3 v2’s LCD interface? All the documentation I have read says it should be bundled with the latest official firmware for the printer on Creality’s website. The current release does not have the screen firmware bundled. Or am I interneting wrong, again?
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Sep 9, 2022 22:33
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w00tmonger posted:Gantry weighing more exaggerating issues with the z screw? Ender 3 only has a single motor on the z,so maybe some gantry sag shifting across as the layers go up and the screen rotates? Got another spool to try? I wonder if it's the filament...
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Sep 9, 2022 22:36
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senrath posted:I have some kind of cheap webcam that I don't remember the brand of right now and a desk clamp with a bendy arm. doin this then
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Sep 9, 2022 22:48
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