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Arsenic Lupin posted:What's the best tape to use to wind around a @#$@#$@#$ computer power supply that has broken free of its connector again? (No wires exposed yet.) Electrical tape is way too sticky. Absolutely don't use a damaged cable... If you have two monitors maybe just grab the power cable from one of them for now until you pick up a replacement. If you're saying that the port the cord goes into is too loose and the cable keeps falling out, that could be the cable (most likely) so try swapping a monitor one in there first.
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Sep 14, 2022 03:26
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Tis the season!  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5OOzUsIThg
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Sep 14, 2022 07:47
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Sorry for probably a dumb question, but is everyone here still pretty strong supports of (official) Wagos, particularly the 221? I ask because I had bought a bunch and they have made my various wiring jobs around my house so simple, but I was in the field recently at a site and talking to a few electricians who talked about how bad "Wages" are, they come loose over time due to thermal expansion/contraction, etc. It left me wondering whether they were actually talking about authentic lever-actuated Wagos, or some of the generic poor quality knock offs that people refer to as "Wagos".
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Sep 14, 2022 08:22
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SourKraut posted:Sorry for probably a dumb question, but is everyone here still pretty strong supports of (official) Wagos, particularly the 221? I ask because I had bought a bunch and they have made my various wiring jobs around my house so simple, but I was in the field recently at a site and talking to a few electricians who talked about how bad "Wages" are, they come loose over time due to thermal expansion/contraction, etc. They're talking about the push-in style connectors which are sometimes generically referred to as "WAGOs" but are usually another brand.
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Sep 14, 2022 14:13
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SourKraut posted:Sorry for probably a dumb question, but is everyone here still pretty strong supports of (official) Wagos, particularly the 221? I ask because I had bought a bunch and they have made my various wiring jobs around my house so simple, but I was in the field recently at a site and talking to a few electricians who talked about how bad "Wages" are, they come loose over time due to thermal expansion/contraction, etc. absolutely but know your supply chain and don't order them from amazon. The principle is sound and there are millions of spring clip terminal blocks that work the same way in industrial cabinets all over the world.
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Sep 14, 2022 14:39
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SpartanIvy posted:They're talking about the push-in style connectors which are sometimes generically referred to as "WAGOs" but are usually another brand. The kind that come in cheap can lights are notoriously bad. They are basically backstabs.
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Sep 14, 2022 14:39
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VelociBacon posted:Absolutely don't use a damaged cable... If you have two monitors maybe just grab the power cable from one of them for now until you pick up a replacement.
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Sep 14, 2022 16:29
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Well, boo. This is a Dell laptop cable, and apparently they've gone over to the Apple scheme of profits through fragility. Hi-ho, off to the parts store. Do you seriously not know any computer people? As someone mentioned, they would have a lifetime supply of IEC cords (and probably figure 8 and Mickey mouse cords too). I have at least two drawers.....three drawers full of the things and whenever I get a new monitor or other computer device, I pretty much toss the included cord because I certainly don't need more.
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Sep 14, 2022 20:55
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Well, boo. This is a Dell laptop cable, and apparently they've gone over to the Apple scheme of profits through fragility. Hi-ho, off to the parts store. I'm guessing you mean the part that's hard wired to the power brick and goes into the laptop?
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Sep 14, 2022 21:05
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"mickey mouse" cable And if it's a newer dell with a USB-C charger, buy one of these and a matching USB-C PD cable instead of the OEM hardwired poo poo brick. Anker 100W USB C Charger
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Sep 14, 2022 23:22
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slurm posted:I'm guessing you mean the part that's hard wired to the power brick and goes into the laptop? Yup. Those really are machine specific. e: And it's not USB-charged.
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Sep 15, 2022 00:59
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Are type qaf, qaf2, etc all ok to replace a type q breaker? All parts Siemens. Edit: ok wait i think i got it type q is kind of generic, qp is single pole (what I have), qt is 2-pole, then qaf and qaf2 are arc fault and combo. They all fit in the same space but of course have different features/functions. My older breakers just say type q. Jenkl fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Sep 16, 2022 |
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Sep 16, 2022 16:19
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Hi, just to be clear before I describe my problem I am absolutely not in any way planning to do anything about this myself. So, a bit of backstory: A few months ago, we had a recurring problem where our dishwasher would trip the house's circuit breaker when you ran it at 60 C. We figured it was a problem with the dishwasher itself, it was 10+ years old and we were probably due a replacement anyway. But, my dad is the grand master of ignoring problems as long as possible, so he just ran the dishwasher colder, which meant none of our dishes got cleaned properly and we kept finding coffee grounds in our drinks. Eventually, it started doing it at the colder temperature too, at which point it became impossible to ignore and we finally got the dishwasher replaced. Hooray, all our dishes are getting cleaned and it's even got a special tray on the top just for cutlery. Which brings us to the present day: My parents are off on holiday for a week, so I'm watching the house on my own. While unloading the cutlery drawer I accidentally brushed the metal inside of the dishwasher, and got a small but painful shock off it. I thought it was some sharp metal burr at first, so I had a look around, touched my finger to the inside a bit lower down to see if there were any other sharp bits, and got a slight tingling sensation in that finger. Well poo poo, that's electrical, so I turned the dishwasher's power off at the wall just to be sure and yep, no tingling now. So the inside of our new dishwasher is apparently very slightly live. And for a kicker, when I told my dad about this, he told me, for the first time, that he's been getting mild shocks off the gas stovetop right next to the dishwasher. Does this sound like a problem with the dishwasher, or something wrong with the house's wiring? And how absolutely furious should I be at my dad for not thinking electrical shocks near a gas hob were important to mention?
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Sep 18, 2022 14:03
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it could be either and the stove being live could be related or an independent problem inside the stove. Get a non contact voltage tester and see if the stove stops being hot when you unplug the dishwasher
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Sep 18, 2022 14:12
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To be clear, he said the zaps are only occasional and he thinks they're static buildup. I'm not so sure, but I don't know whether the stovetop is actually hot or not. I'll see if I can find a voltage tester but it's already mid afternoon on a sunday and we've got a bank holiday tomorrow so that might be a couple of days.
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Sep 18, 2022 14:15
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Dabir posted:I accidentally brushed the metal inside of the dishwasher, and got a small but painful shock off it. I thought it was some sharp metal burr at first, so I had a look around, touched my finger to the inside a bit lower down to see if there were any other sharp bits, and got a slight tingling sensation in that finger. persistant shocks (tingling) from multiple appliances on different circuits suggests there's a problem with your earthing somewhere, and you should get an electrician in to carry out continuity testing to find and rectify it.
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Sep 18, 2022 14:32
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I think the stovetop is on the same circuit, just for its electical igniters - but those also haven't worked in years. If it clears anything up, this is a hundred year old British house and I'm given to understand British electrics are generally horrifying to the rest of the world, and this house is particularly bad because the breaker controlling the kitchen also trips the appliances in the entire rest of the house except for the floor the kitchen is on.
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Sep 18, 2022 14:36
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I'm in the UK also and our historical regulations have principally been about 'what's cheapest to the boss'. Your installation sounds like a bit of a nightmare though so I don't think trying to remotely troubleshoot something like this that we can't see is advisable. I would recommend getting hold of a local NICEIC electrician to do an EICR for you and then go from there. It should cost up to a couple hundred pounds maybe, and bear in mind there's every chance they'll say 'holy gently caress I can't leave this energised' and you'll be looking at £££.
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Sep 18, 2022 14:43
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Absolutely, I wouldn't dream of tackling this myself. Electrician it is, but the more we can give them to get started the better. E: I've bought the tester. Stovetop is live when the dishwasher power is on, not when it isn't E2: Inside of the dishwasher makes it light up like a Christmas tree before you even touch it to metal Dabir fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Sep 18, 2022 |
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Sep 18, 2022 14:53
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Dabir posted:Electrician it is, but the more we can give them to get started the better. No, this isn't true. No competent electrician, car mechanic, etc is going to use amateur diagnostics to skip steps or whatever. They need your complaint/customer states and that's it. It's their job to figure out the rest and they will do so in the same way regardless of what you've tested or whatever. "I got shocked on these things" is plenty.
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Sep 18, 2022 15:02
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Motronic posted:No, this isn't true. No competent electrician, car mechanic, etc is going to use amateur diagnostics to skip steps or whatever. They need your complaint/customer states and that's it. It's their job to figure out the rest and they will do so in the same way regardless of what you've tested or whatever. "I got shocked on these things" is plenty. Fair enough.
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Sep 18, 2022 15:04
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Yeah this is a dangerous condition. Somewhere someone wired something wrong and now you are a path to ground. You're potentially dealing with a tiny amount of leakage or something that could be heart stopping with two hands, but it's hard to diagnose without a meter and a ability to safely map out the fault. One could become the other with an unknown and invisible change to the system either through a combination usage or further degradation of the fault. Want to figure out if it's your stove wiring neutral to ground and if your dad knows cpr? Hold on tight and run the piezo starters. Get the idea? This is why further diagnosis can be dangerous. Electricians will understand this inherent danger and the importance of resolving it. Carpets give mild static shocks that go bang and are done in a microsecond. Tingling is current flowing from a source.
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Sep 18, 2022 17:14
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H110Hawk posted:Carpets give mild static shocks that go bang and are done in a microsecond.
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Sep 18, 2022 18:13
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Speaking of getting shocked, any ideas what the potential cause of this would have been? I lived in a rental house years ago in Houston which had been built in the fifties. When I would shower, randomly whenever I’d touch the mixing valve, I’d feel a small shock. It wasn’t much, but just enough of a constant tingle to know things weren’t right. Any clues? Is it just a house without a proper ground maybe?
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Sep 18, 2022 18:27
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My MacBook Pro (2019 model) has a leakage issue that I’ve posted about before. I can feel a hell of a tingling all around the steel case around the keyboard and basically the whole thing. The tingling changes intensity and how it feels as I move my finger around. When unplugged, the feeling instantly goes away. In the US the plug is not grounded but apparently it is elsewhere. It’s a USB C to C cable from the wall wart. I’m guessing it’s not a dangerous condition but it is interesting! Perhaps most people might not even notice it.
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Sep 18, 2022 18:31
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nwin posted:Speaking of getting shocked, any ideas what the potential cause of this would have been? Lots of things. Incorrect/rogue ground/neutral bonds with poor or improper grounding can put lots of current where it shouldn't be. Floating neutral will do it too. Of course I'm talking about the type of power you're talking about. I don't know how UK stuff works from the power distribution side and grounding/bonding or even how their power is phased so this answer has absolutely nothing to do with the UK persons question.
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Sep 18, 2022 18:46
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H110Hawk posted:Yeah this is a dangerous condition. Somewhere someone wired something wrong and now you are a path to ground. You're potentially dealing with a tiny amount of leakage or something that could be heart stopping with two hands, but it's hard to diagnose without a meter and a ability to safely map out the fault. One could become the other with an unknown and invisible change to the system either through a combination usage or further degradation of the fault. Understood, believe me I know to treat electricity with respect. I originally touched it because I thought I was dealing with a metal burr or something, and getting the tester on it was important to have something nice and obvious to show my parents cause otherwise they'll put it off until it's impossible to ignore, which in this case will mean someone gets seriously hurt.
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Sep 18, 2022 18:54
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Inner Light posted:My MacBook Pro (2019 model) has a leakage issue that I’ve posted about before. I can feel a hell of a tingling all around the steel case around the keyboard and basically the whole thing. The tingling changes intensity and how it feels as I move my finger around. When unplugged, the feeling instantly goes away. In the US the plug is not grounded but apparently it is elsewhere. It’s a USB C to C cable from the wall wart. I’m guessing it’s not a dangerous condition but it is interesting! Perhaps most people might not even notice it. This has happened to me with every metal-bodied laptop I've ever used in the US. Once the coating on the case gets even a minor chip, it starts zapping my wrists (too small a shock to feel it even with my fingertips). They do this with brand new OEM power adapters too. They ground through the case. It's very annoying.
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Sep 18, 2022 19:00
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BonerGhost posted:This has happened to me with every metal-bodied laptop I've ever used in the US. Once the coating on the case gets even a minor chip, it starts zapping my wrists (too small a shock to feel it even with my fingertips). They do this with brand new OEM power adapters too. Yeah but what I don't understand is, what I'm used to in resi electrical is that the grounding cable should have zero current passing through it in nominal conditions. Why is the steel body of the laptop live in normal operating condition, albeit with a small current / voltage? Separate question, if ground and neutral are connected at the main panel, then why is ground not often live with whatever voltage has been passing through neutral as a result of devices operating? Even though neutral and ground are not connected in the junction boxes, I figured 'electricity' could 'move' from the panel, from neutral to ground in the device junction boxes. I still have a lot to learn 
Inner Light fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Sep 18, 2022 |
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Sep 18, 2022 19:19
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Dabir posted:Understood, believe me I know to treat electricity with respect. I originally touched it because I thought I was dealing with a metal burr or something, and getting the tester on it was important to have something nice and obvious to show my parents cause otherwise they'll put it off until it's impossible to ignore, which in this case will mean someone gets seriously hurt. Yeah, I was just giving color commentary to the "why" behind Motronic's statement of "stop troubleshooting."  Same for everyone with minor tingles around the house. You want hot water in the shower, not a hot shower filled with water.
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Sep 18, 2022 19:31
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BonerGhost posted:This has happened to me with every metal-bodied laptop I've ever used in the US. Once the coating on the case gets even a minor chip, it starts zapping my wrists (too small a shock to feel it even with my fingertips). They do this with brand new OEM power adapters too. I once had that with a phone. Not mine, thank gently caress, it was an old one the company I was working for had lying around the office to run whatsapp through. Tried to check on it one time and it zapped me.
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Sep 18, 2022 19:40
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Inner Light posted:My MacBook Pro (2019 model) has a leakage issue that I’ve posted about before. I can feel a hell of a tingling all around the steel case around the keyboard and basically the whole thing. The tingling changes intensity and how it feels as I move my finger around. When unplugged, the feeling instantly goes away. In the US the plug is not grounded but apparently it is elsewhere. It’s a USB C to C cable from the wall wart. I’m guessing it’s not a dangerous condition but it is interesting! Perhaps most people might not even notice it. You can buy a grounded cable to replace the ungrounded "duck head" they come with https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MK122LL/A/power-adapter-extension-cable
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Sep 18, 2022 22:19
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Trying to troubleshoot an issue with a doorbell and need someone to point me in the right direction. My girlfriends house has a ring doorbell on it. When the button is pushed, the unit itself makes a noise, she gets an alert, but the actual chimes don't go off. In addition, the doorbell is not charging via the house wiring. I checked the screw terminals at the doorbell with a meter and it is showing 19ish volts. If I bridge the terminals with a jumper, no chimes. I checked the transformer and it is showing roughly the same voltage. I think the chime is bad since bridging the terminals doesn't activate it, but is there anything else I can check before I go buy a new one and install it. I don't think the chime being bad would cause the issue with the ring doorbell not charging but does someone have any ideas on that? I spoke to support for it and they had me go through some troubleshooting. In the end they said that the unit was older and maybe the age of it was the reason for the lack of it charging from the house wiring. But it's only 2-3 years old and that seems odd.
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Sep 25, 2022 03:17
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The transformer should be putting out 24v AC (check your meter settings!) right on the terminals, label and unhook the wires. Go find it and check it. I don't know how much voltage drop is expected but 19v feels low. Might be totally normal though I don't know how doorbells work. Otherwise I bet either the wires to the chime, inside the chime, or similar are poorly connected.
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Sep 25, 2022 03:33
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Dabir posted:Hi, just to be clear before I describe my problem I am absolutely not in any way planning to do anything about this myself. Following up on this, my parents are back and a visit from an electrician is in our near future. But the first thing my dad did was turn on the dishwasher and run it overnight to see if it was working, so I've yelled at him about that. He's so clueless sometimes I s2g. I've been giving the situation some thought. Speaking as a complete non expert, it seems like this is a problem with the socket, not the dishwasher (or that if there's something wrong with the dishwasher, that it's been caused by exposure to the problem in the socket), and that it's been going on for a long time. My hypothesis is that the old dishwasher was drawing enough power for normal operations that with the fault on top, it was drawing enough total power to trip the breaker. The new one, being presumably more energy efficient with 10+ years of tech advancement and being much newer, was drawing a low enough current to stay under the breaker's limit. That's all for the electrician to figure out, obviously, but if the problem is in the socket and it's existed for a long time, then there's probably been current flowing through the stovetop for about that long. And the piezoelectric lighters on that stovetop haven't worked in a few years - they briefly came back to life about 18 months ago but then died again. So my question is, is it possible that the stovetop being electrified burned the lighters out or something?
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Sep 25, 2022 18:40
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Anything is possible. Nobody can answer this because nobody knows what the actual electrical problem is so there is no way to say if its related.
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Sep 25, 2022 18:57
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Ok, genericising it: If you run current through a stovetop with piezo lighters, can that burn out the lighters?
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Sep 25, 2022 19:57
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Dabir posted:Ok, genericising it: If you run current through a stovetop with piezo lighters, can that burn out the lighters? Again, anything is possible. None of know the design of the stove. Nobody is likely to engage with any of this what-if-ism either. I know I'm done with it, I was just trying to give you some guidance on why this is a fruitless endeavor.
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Sep 25, 2022 19:59
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Ok, I was just wondering if anyone would go "no, those work on a principle that makes that kind of thing completely impossible" or something.
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Sep 25, 2022 20:04
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Dabir posted:Ok, genericising it: If you run current through a stovetop with piezo lighters, can that burn out the lighters? If it’s a true piezo, it shouldn’t even be electrically connected to the stovetop, outside of maybe a metal housing tied to AC earth. The hammer strikes a crystal, causing a high voltage + discharge which should light it up in the presence of gas / fuel. Very generally speaking, running current through something at a magnitude or duration outside of design specifications can usually break things. Designed something for a pulse of high current every so often and instead run a low current continuously? Depending on construction / design, could have no effect, could break it!
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