|
e: new page, I should probably quoteDarchangel posted:Rock auto got it to me faster than Amazon - 3 days I believe it was. Rockauto was quoting Tuesday, Amazon quoting Sunday - and Rockauto didn't even pull up the Motorcraft one for me by year/make/model, only when I put in the part number. With the motor sounding a bit tired, I figured it'd be for the best if I got one with a motor - even though it doubles the price. Also simplifies things a little. Once I got to Lowe's, I was like "wait.. they said 1 inch bolts for everything". So I got 1" and 3/4", I kinda have a feeling I'm gonna go back for some 1/2" long ones.... And the rest of the car is NOT entirely metric.  I have open and geared wrenches (Lowe's version), so being in the door blind shouldn't be too much of an issue. Dorman's install sheet doesn't say anything about removing the door handle (thank gently caress), so I'm gonna try it... without removing the door handle. That whole inside door handle setup is weird to begin with. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Aug 11, 2022 |
#
?
Aug 11, 2022 18:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 20:28 |
|
|
Yeah, 1" is way too big (which is what she didn't say...) for most of them. I think I used mostly 12-15mm, except the connection to the actual window, which is pretty thick. Might have been 25mm (so, uh, 1") there. Rock Auto did Wednesday for me, Amazon said Sunday. Weird. Might just be the locations of the warehouses. The door handle thing - I'm not sure where else you can access the forward rivet holding the window to the regulator, BUT I was trying to do it without removing the window (not realizing how easy it actually was,) so they may be expecting you to bring it all out of the top and detach the window after the fact.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2022 19:07
|
|
|
The bolts are all of 13-15c/ea, so if I need to go grab some half inchers ( ), I can do that. They're all 14/20 with a 7/16 head either way. Wouldn't be the first time Dorman lied about their size, now would it?The window is mostly disconnected from the regulator - it'll drop completely into the door if I let it (getting it back up was a complete PITA when it first fell down). The motor will try to yank it down if I hit the switch, but I can hear what sounds like cables or whips flailing around in the door, along with what sounds like something metal and plastic ripping itself apart ("Generally Bad Sounds").
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2022 22:01
|
|
|
The plastic sleeve for the cable broke off of the spool, spool jammed up, cable is pretty mangled - no fixing this, though the motor is probably still good. Probably the original regulator going by the date on the motor (late 2006) and having an OEM part number. I broke one of the plastic sleeves on the window, so I'm going to see if I can cobble it back together good 'nuff in the morning (I have all the pieces; I think a little superglue will be enough to hold it together until I get it sandwiched between nut/bolt/washers). Didn't have to remove the door handle or speaker like you did, though that probably would have given more access - I had the benefit of a window that was freely able to move up/down by hand. That hidden rivet on the window is accessible through the hole that the window motor wiring goes through. Total of 6 rivets knocked out - 2 on the window, 2 on the brace that the door card bolts to, 2 at the bottom of the track; 3 Torx screws removed (attaches the motor to the riveted backing plate; plate can stay in the door). I should be fine using the 3/4" bolts on everything except MAYBE the glass itself - might need to grab a couple of 1/2" long bolts. The whole mess (sans window) came out through the large hole at the bottom of the door. Window came out easily from the top of the door once I removed the inside scraper. I haven't taken the new regulator out of the box yet; I may exchange it for one sans motor. I'll get about $35 back if I do that. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Aug 13, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2022 06:20
|
|
|
It's been a while. Mainly I've been playing Fortnite. Between "it's really hot", recovering form Covid, and general apathy, I've not done anything that didn't need to be done right now. It's now finally low 90s - 80s here, and the humidity has backed off to something approaching "not a wet blanket." My air compressor was running constantly again, so I had to take a look at that. Turned out that not only had I blown a line in the attic again, but the unloader valve was also draining the tank, so the check valve was not functioning. Spliced the line in the attic, no problem. I guess I'll need to come up with a shut-off I can reach from inside the garage for all that, and not leave the lines pressurized 24/7. Check valve was a bit annoying, since   obligatory:  It was a little tight coming out, and once out, one could see the reason, which was alos why it wasn't sealing:   Some kind of plastic junk in there.   I'm not sure what this was or where it came from. I put it back together without that, and it appeared to work. It held at ~40PSI, but once the compressor got up to it's cutoff of 125 PSI, it failed again, so I just went ahead and spent the $20 for a new one. Thankfully this compressor model/type is super common - dozens of brands used this same exact compressor with their name slapped on it. Hopefully I can get back on the RX-7 here in a bit.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2022 17:17
|
|
|
So I bought a new check valve. Looks good, no problem, but... What's that?:  ...really? Again?!  I don't know what that was, which worries me a bit. At any rate, I removed the detritus and reinstalled, and no problem. I still need to rig a way to shut off the air from inside the garage (remember, by compressor is outside in a hutch) but I've think I've got a working idea on that. An electric valve would be cool as poo poo, but I've got line of sight from the valve to the door between the compressor and the garage, and a drill.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2022 19:35
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:
I have a similar setup to you where my compressor is in the shed next to my garage. 12v air solenoids are cheap to buy (like a tenner off ebay). I am going to use one of those powered by a 12v mains transformer plugged in via an alexa controlled wifi switched socket. I'm going to put the compressor on a different alexa controlled socket. Since I also have an alexa in the garage (I use it for music), I can then just shout at it to control my air
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2022 20:21
|
|
|
I will look into that. The air valve. I don't care for Google listening to me all the time. For an IT guy, I'm amazingly trailing edge. Also as an IT guy, I don't like all the always-on, IOT stuff, and I'm not even InfoSec. edit: the issue I'm seeing with solenoid valves is that they're not rated for continuous "on" duty, and only about 100 PSI. I probably don't need it on 8+ hours, but on the cheap ones I'm seeing max 30 min on time/50% duty cycle. U.S. Solid has some with 8 hr on time, but more importantly, motorized ball valves. Those aren't prohibitively expensive (under US$40.) Interestingly the stainless steel one is cheaper than the brass one. edit: oooo, options. Auto-close, reversing polarity open/close, 2 point control, and 5-wire that can have status lights! Darchangel fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Sep 15, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2022 23:43
|
|
|
What about air actuated solenoids? No power to deal with, and you can get air switches for them. Though obviously if the compressor is off and leaks down, you're kinda stuck till it comes back up to whatever pressure they need. We use those at work for several things. No idea what they cost, but they can be run at 100% duty cycle since, you know, nothing electric in them (except maybe a position switch to sense whether it's open or closed). They make a neat KAPSHH too. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:15 on Sep 15, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 12:13
|
|
|
Using air solenoids to control the air supply seems problematic.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2022 17:56
|
|
|
not if the control pressure comes from the tank side of the solenoid. doesn't really matter what state the 'noid is in if the compressor is off and empty.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 08:31
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:I will look into that. The air valve. I don't care for Google listening to me all the time. Their ball valves are pretty crappy. I've got one on my compressor and it can't open under the tank pressure. I've got to go wiggle it and it'll open. Once it's open, it'll close because there's no pressure differential, do it's still better than a manual valve. I opened it up and it's a capacitive dropper and a tiny motor with a worm drive. Upscale the motor by 25%, you cheap bastards.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 11:37
|
|
|
Hmmm. Ordered one, guess I'll see.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 21:30
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Using air solenoids to control the air supply seems problematic. I mean, it works in a car factory.  The ones I'm used to fail closed, so they won't re-open until pressure comes back up.The equipment also has quarter turn ball valves, but those are "NO TOUCH" for us. I've never had to touch them, though maintenance has instructed me on how to use them (and most of the other "YOU'RE NOT SMART ENOUGH TO TOUCH THIS poo poo" stuff) if I really need to. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Sep 16, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 22:18
|
|
|
It’s just one of those things that *sounds* like it shouldn’t work. Like perpetual motion energy. “See: use the air to control the air!” Except in this case it actually works.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 22:32
|
|
|
I assume there's also a lot more failsafes and redundancy in a factory vs someone's home garage. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2022 22:38
|
|
|
STR posted:I assume there's also a lot more failsafes and redundancy in a factory vs someone's home garage. if we were talking about anyone else's factory, i might agree
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2022 05:11
|
|
|
Raluek posted:if we were talking about anyone else's factory, i might agree I’m glad you said it so I didn’t have to.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2022 22:12
|
|
|
A wild box has appeared! My Kickstarter multiprocess welder has arrived! I didn't have time to mess with it, but plan to this weekend. I don't have any argon, or even a bottle, but I can test the stick welding and plasma cutter. Need to bite the bullet and spend $300 for a new filled bottle - not going to rent one, that would be dumb.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2022 20:30
|
|
|
 I missed the Kickstarter campaign by a day but I was able to pre order it. Mine's not shipping till November so I'm looking forward to your experience with it. Edit: Does it come with a regulator? I purchased an Air Liquide ALBee tank recently and it's been great, it has a built in handle and regulator. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Sep 23, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2022 21:46
|
|
|
Yes! Welder! Now post those dank beads
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2022 22:37
|
|
|
Bulk Vanderhuge posted:
I don't recall - haven't opened it. I think so, though. cursedshitbox posted:Yes! Welder! Gonna need a LOT of practice. I suck at MIG, much less TIG I've never done...
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2022 22:46
|
|
|
Send it, no shame. I remember my first birdshit globs of wtf. Who posts where is a blur to me at this point but if you're not in the blacksmithing thread in diy it's a great resource on all things welding, and friendly too.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2022 04:24
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:I don't recall - haven't opened it. I think so, though. aye so day one will be grinding tungsten. It'll all get better from there.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2022 04:29
|
|
|
I haven’t bee able to find in the thread, but do you use an ultrasonic cleaner or just an acid dip with your hardware? I just picked up a cheap cleaner and the results aren’t anywhere near the magic I’d been lead to believe.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2022 05:56
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:I haven’t bee able to find in the thread, but do you use an ultrasonic cleaner or just an acid dip with your hardware? I just picked up a cheap cleaner and the results aren’t anywhere near the magic I’d been lead to believe. I could be a smartass and say "yes", but I won't. I use the (heated, in my case, which seems to make a difference) ultrasonic sometimes for dirty stuff, but *always* a quick acid dip and water rinse (just an other dip, really) just before dunking in the plating tank. Makes all the difference. ANY oil or contamination just fucks the plating. Like, it won't plate in that spot at all. You can sometimes spot clean and try again, but frankly, it's easy enoug to dip it back in the acid, which removes all the zinc, then go again. What I want to know is what chemicals the pros use to have the zinc come out bright without brushing. That poo poo is a tightly held secret, apparently. The common DIY of sugar or corn syrup seems to help, but still not what I'd call "bright", and the Caswell Brightener... isn't. At least, not in my solution. To be fair, I'm not using their prepackaged plating solution. cursedshitbox posted:aye so day one will be grinding tungsten. Yep. Guess I need to get a grinder/stone specifically for the tungstens. Mike Finnegan has one in his show that's like a pencil sharpener. All enclosed - just turn on and insert the tungsten. Pretty neat. honda whisperer posted:Send it, no shame. I remember my first birdshit globs of wtf. I've not looked in there. I may, now. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 16:29
|
|
|
I did not get out intot he garage much this past weekend. Some heretofore unannounced honey-dos appeared out of nowhere, along with stuff I already had planned (Hot Wheels Legends Tour show, baseball game paid for by work.) So no updates on the welder. I did get out and swap out the steering wheel in the Outback. New used OEM leather wheel:  Why did I change it? Well, the VDC (and LL Bean) have this wood and leather wheel:  It's nice, but in our case:  The polyurethane flaked, and is giving my wife splinters. A good used wood one is $130+. This one was $50, so I bit. First thing was that the T30s holding the airbag were *tight* and the first bit I used was cheese:  T30 I pulled from a Ryobi kit was fine, though, and the airbag came out without too much fuss. Ryobi One+ impact made quick work of the hub nut, and the steering wheel came off of the shaft with a bit of wiggling, no puller required. Marked it first to a common point on the hub so I could line the new one up, slapped the leather one on and then put the airbag back:  Well, gently caress. WHAT THE HELL, SUBARU? Why, in the name of all that is holy, would you use a *different* airbag on that ONE steering wheel? At least it was smaller, so it's functional, just unpleasing aesthetically. I will either buy a correct airbag, or another wood wheel, whichever is cheaper, but first, I'm going to try to repair the polyurethane on the wheel I have. Some days. I can say after a drive to my mother-in-laws for the aforementioned honey-dos, that a) I got it on straight, and b) it's pretty comfy to the hands. Did a little work on the air compressor valving. Before:   New bits:  (new ball valve because the old one is 1/4") Partially done:  Turns out that the shark-bite fitting for the plastic air line is 3/8" NPT, and the one adapter I don't have is a 3/" NPT to 1/2" NPT bushing. Have to hit up LowesDepot and pick one up. Not pictured yet, but I have a 12V 1250 mA wall-wart to power it, and 20' or so of black/red 18 gauge wire. Just need to add a SPST switch, and route the wire out to the valve. In retrospect, I probably should have gotten the 3-wire valve that is powered open and closed. I'm not entirely sure how the "auto-close" valve... closes. Spring? Power stored in a capacitor? It would have been easy enough to use a DPDT switch and run 3 wires from the switch to the valve rather than 2. I did test the electric valve, and it works as advertised with no pressure on it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 17:10
|
|
|
Very nice weekend - high was like 81 both days - I can work with that. Miscellaneous task days. Cleaned up my workbench, finished the other tool rest for the left side of the grinder (same as the one previously posted, but mirrored,) then finoshed up the new electric shut-off valve for the air compressor: I got the 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT bushings in, and I also ordered a 3/8" NPT tap and drill, since I didn't already have one. Interestingly, what I *got* was a 3/4" NPT tap and drill:  I decided not to complain, since it's more expensive than the 3/8" was. May or may not ever need it, but now I've got it, yeah? I'll just order the 3/8" NPT again. Lighted switch to control the valve:  (the compressor is on the other side of the door behind the switch) Wiring for the switch goes from a wall-wart about 6' to the right, to the switch, then up the wall behind the switch to a hole in the ceiling, following the 240V extension. In the attic it ended up hopping over a joist, since I can't really reach into the eave to redirect it. I had to be creative with coathangers-as-fishtape to get it where it is already.   That joist doesn't quite touch the decking, so the wire *almost* dropped down by itself, but I think there's a nail there where it stopped. Not really a concern, other than aesthetics, and I decide not to care about that. Ideally, I should run the cabling through the wall using conduit and such, but it's technically sitting on a porch, with a door, which complicates that part of things. It works as-is. The wiring for the valve drops out of the eave following the air line to the valve:  and just connects using good old 14" insulated quick-connects:  It works great! The switch is currently at the rear of the garage, near the door between the garage and house. I can't decide if that's better or worse than having it out by the actual air hose reel. On the one hand, it would make some sense to have it by the outlet, but on the other hand, up by the house door makes it easy to check if it was turned off after the fact. For now, this shortened the wiring, and I like the ease of checking aspect, so it'll stay. I'd kind of like to use one of those "safety" switches with the flip up cover (you know, like all the racers use for nitrous, etc...) but this works for the time being, and I had it in my bag of switches. I like the red telltale light. Having done that, I decided it was time to wash the AE86 - the paint was getting remarkably chalky. Remember this thing is painted with Rustoleum (or Krylon - I forget which) spray paint, so is prone to chalking. Of course something went awry when I pulled it into the driveway:  That's gas. Fortunately it was just a leak at hose clamp between the pump and the hard line to the front.  That hose is a little large for the hard line. A quick tighten and it was all good. An example of how bad the paint was:  The front fender, top of the door, and rocker have been pressure washed - the middle part of the door was how the whole car was. I pressure washed first, then bukkaked the car with the soap sprayer attachement, scrubbed with a washing brush, then pressure washed again. It seemed to have worked:  Looks like rear end, because of course the paint when it chalks is literally going away, but at least it doesn't rub off if you lean against it now. Hard to see, but there was plenty of blue in the gutter afterward:  Washed the Crown Vic on Sunday - it was diiiiiiiiirrrrty:  I don't think it's had a bath in like a year. All better:  The paint is still flaking everywhere, but it's clean! Most noticeable were the wheels. Glossy black looks so nice when clean. That took me longer than I hoped. I was in for a quick wash, but got into it and did a fair job. After that I finally unboxed the new welder!   Lots of plugs. Lots of accessories to go in those plugs:   Someone asked: it does not come with a regulator for the argon. It does have an air regulator for the plasma cutter, though. That actually mounts on the back it can use an in-built compressor, or an external compressor.  It's slightly smaller than my MIG:   I could build a rack for it to sit about there on this cart, but I'm going to need more storage for the accessories, so I think I'll bite the bullet and buy one of the HF carts with drawers. The make a bigger one designed to hold multiple welders and two bottles, but it's almost $500. Not sure I want to drop that on HF. Mind you, the single with the drawers is $200. The double is a nice unit, though:  (click for bigger) Only drawback besides price is it's bigger, and I'll have to figure out where to put it. I ran out of time to give it a whirl - mind you, I don't have gas, tungstens, or welding rods, so the only thing I can really test at the moment is the plasma cutter...
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2022 18:36
|
|
|
What brand is your mig? It looks just like a Hobart but he sticker I can't make out.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2022 19:11
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Turns out that the shark-bite fitting for the plastic air line is 3/8" NPT, and the one adapter I don't have is a 3/" NPT to 1/2" NPT bushing. Have to hit up LowesDepot and pick one up. It closes by charging a cap. That has always worked for me. The opening doesn't if there's pressure on the valve and no pressure in the line after the valve. It worked for about a month, now I have to run up and wiggle the valve box, and it'll open. It still saves me climbing up there to shut it off, so I'm stuck with it for now. I'll be interested to hear your experiences.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2022 19:13
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:What brand is your mig? It looks just like a Hobart but he sticker I can't make out. Yep, Hobart 135 - a fairly old one, or at least one that spent a lot of time out in the sun, judging by the faded paint. Dad picked it up at auction or a garage sale. Replaced the wire feed liner and it works great. I still don't really know what I'm doing with it, though... sharkytm posted:It closes by charging a cap. That has always worked for me. The opening doesn't if there's pressure on the valve and no pressure in the line after the valve. It worked for about a month, now I have to run up and wiggle the valve box, and it'll open. It still saves me climbing up there to shut it off, so I'm stuck with it for now. I'll be interested to hear your experiences. It's working OK right now, though I've only cycled it a few times. We'll see, I guess. I *think* it was rated at 120 PSI, and my pressure switch is set to 125.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2022 20:34
|
|
|
We have a few of those double bottle vulcan carts at my work (some holding orbital welders, some with a bunch of plumbing and equipment bolted on and attached for testing compressors with), and they’ve held up pretty great for the last few years. Not sure they’re worth $450 for you but I can’t complain about em at all.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 05:32
|
|
|
Dr. Despair posted:We have a few of those double bottle vulcan carts at my work (some holding orbital welders, some with a bunch of plumbing and equipment bolted on and attached for testing compressors with), and they’ve held up pretty great for the last few years. Not sure they’re worth $450 for you but I can’t complain about em at all. Cool, thanks for the capsule review. I currently don't have a lot of room in the garage and the double bottle one is 6" wider and something like a foot longer. Not *that* much, but I'd have to rearrange some stuff to have space to move (which in all honesty I need to do anyway.) I may get the smaller one and just extend the bottle tray. This poo poo gets expansive quick. Going to be like $300 each to get the Argon and C25 bottles.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 17:28
|
|
|
I almost forgot! I got the Yeswelder unpacked and fired it up last weekend! Hooked up the onboard air compressor:  Plasma cutter plasma cuts!   Pretty nice cut. Fairly easy to control. It fires up, pumps up the current, turns on the air, then ramps current down a bit, if I'm understanding the docs correctly (called "2T" - docs could be better.) It can also apparently do a mode ("4T") where clicking it once fires it up, clicking it again puts it into low current, then shuts off if released? Going to have to play with it. There are probably videos on their site that explain it all better. Grabbed some E6011 rods while I was at HD picking up a new hinge for the garage overhead door:  so I needed to try that, to.  After cleaning:  edit: I started at the bottom. Finally got it right toward the top. Obviously. Back side looks terrible because I didn't clean the plasma slag off before welding.  Y'all - I have literally not stick welded since high school. I graduated in 1988. It took, uh, multiple attempts to properly strike an arc, which, as it turns out was actually fairly easy. Since it's a TIG, it can do HF start, which apparently works with the stick? All I had to do was get really close, I think. Once I got it going and didn't pull back too far, it welded great. That weld is ugly, but I couldn't break it with pliers. I will need to practice more. It has several automatic settings, but almost everything can be manually controlled form a submenu accessed by clicking the control knob. I will leave all of that alone until I understand what all of it means. So far, my opinion of this thing is positive. For whoever asked - it does not come with a gas regulator for the Argon. Probably one of the few things it doesn't. I forgot to inspect the torch, so I don' t know it it comes with a starter tungsten. It does have separate settings for vertical, horizontal, and overhead TIG welding, BTW. That plasma, though. Almost worth it for that alone. Holy cow does it cut fast, and was fairly smooth just freehanding.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2022 22:35
|
|
|
Went to the wrecking yard this past weekend, looking for parts to fix my cousin's '96 Explorer. Seems like headlight switch failures are a pattern failure on those, since not a single one had a headlight switch. The later ones almos all had a (different) switch, but not his generation. I even checked Rangers - same. While there, I browsed the Crown Vics as well. Along with a few small bits I needed, I found an aluminum compact spare in a Town Car, looks almost unused. Here compared with the steel one I was using:   It's been used at least once by the lug nut marks on the bolt holes, but it still has nubblies on the tread. All cleaned up to go into the trunk:  I use the donut spare because my subwoofer box won't quite let the full-sized spare fit under the parcel shelf, and I don't want it taking up the entirety of the lower well. I just use the donut to get home, and then swap on the full-sized or have the regular tire replaced/repaired. I even got the OEM carpet cover for it! It weighs *so* much less than the steelie. I also got confused by a late production 2011 that looked like a Crown Vic LX rather than a P7B, but apparently that was a thing for government and other fleet use that didn't require the Police Interceptor stuff. It looked like it was really nice before the accident, pity. Sadly, it only had a 2.73 open diff, or I would have snagged the rearend to replace my whiner. About 90% of the Panthers in this particular yard had the rearends removed, interestingly. I don't know if that's the yard removing them for a business, or just lots of customers with bad Crown Vic rears...
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2022 17:46
|
|
|
Mine is starting to whine.  Only while under light throttle at highway speeds for now. I know it was weeping from the axle seals, but now with the new transmission leak, the entire underbody (including the rear end) is covered in ATF. Kinda hard to pinpoint leaks like that.Wouldn't mind a compact spare, though a bit hesitant to trust one that old - I can fit the full size in there, but the edge is basically resting on my sub box. A custom box would be a good thing (uh, lemme know if you ever decide to part with yours...).
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 02:19
|
|
|
My sub box is literally just a cube except for an angle in the front to match the rear firewall. 1.28 cubic feet, not accounting for the woofer itself. Full sized spare will not fit between the box and the trunk hinge bracket. The donut will, I think, but isn't centered on the J-hook bracket. I've been meaning to build a false floor to make the bottom of the trunk flat, and store the tire and a few other things underneath. I could rebuild the sub box to go up and over the spare, I suppose. I could probably build you a box like mine without too much trouble. I have a drawing with the height to fit under the trunk lip and the right angle for the seatback. Just fiddle the width and depth to get the volume. Limited to a 10" driver, though, because there's only 10.25" under the deck. Could probably finagle that by making it a bit deeper and letting the woofer mounting plate hang down the rear face of the hump a bit. For reference I checked my axle code and I have an X5 rear axle - 3.27 LSD, not the 3.55 "performance" axle. Still a lot better than the typical civilian 2.73 rear. It does make it easier to replace. All '04-up P71/P7B have at least a 3.27, so all I really need to do is look for the LSD if I want to replace, or any of them if I just want a driver to have mine fixed.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2022 23:42
|
|
|
So, I just got a notification that my welder accessories package would be delivered shortly. I forgot I had gotten the package deal! It includes: 71pcs TIG Consumables 49pcs Plasma Cutting Consumables Foot Pedal for AC/DC TIG Includes a bunch of extra collets, nozzles, gas lenses, back caps, and a glass cup for the TIG, and nozzles, tips, and electrodes for the plasma, as well as the foot pedal. Excellent!
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2022 17:58
|
|
|
Sup X5 friend. My box is just a $50 Walmart special. 12" ported though, with an old Polk DXi single voice coil... and it's really not enough. A mix of the box not really being perfectly matched and me liking loud stuff louder, I think. Also the $75 Crunch amp ("1100 watts") and head unit with a mono 2V preout...
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2022 02:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 20:28 |
|
|
STR posted:Sup X5 friend. I'm really surprised at the output from a 10" in a small ported box. It was sealed when I had the JL in there, until its foam finally gave up, which I didn't catch before it killed the voice coil too. Currently a Sonic Electronix house brand NVX. other than the dust cap coming loose and buzzing, I've had no trouble out of it. Planet Audio 4-channel I got through a work rewards program for free (well, no $$.) Also no real complaints about the amp, other than I think it has a loose joint on the left channel. I lose that sometimes for a few minutes. A good bump or turning up the volume too much brings it back. Not annoying enough to track down. I know it's the amp, because the speakers and crossovers were recently replaced. Did an oil change and some maintenance on the CV this past weekend. Only the finest Krikland oil for my baby:  They didn't have the specified 5W-20, so it gets 5W-30. Full synthetic, though. Cheaper than the O'Reilly's house brand dino oil. Even the Mobil 1 synthetic Costco had was cheaper. I... might have procrastinated a bit.   I would have gotten a sample for Blackstone, but a) dat interval, and b) I've forgotten how much I added between changes. At least 6 quarts, since I used up what I had bought *last time* for an oil change. I don't know where it's going. It's not leaking, and no obvious burning, so probably just burning a little bit, but not enough to smoke. Next I wanted to find a rattle I kept hearing in the accessory belt system. I though initially it was just the AC compressor clattering, but it happens with the AC off, so no. Tracked it down to the tensioner pully bearing having a bit of play in it, so removed that, and rediscovered the shim I had installed:  To correct this:  I had a new bearing for it that I had bought previously while trying to find the source of the chirping noise I kept hearing - which was that contact against the timing cover pictured previously. I put that in, and installed it a but further in to see if I could get the pulley further away from the engine, but the belt had other ideas:  Which lead me to investigate further, finally noticing this: http://i.imgur.com/a5EGMs1.mp4 edit: that's right, you have to use "original size" and without the link. A new Motorcraft tensioner is on order. Surprisingly cheaper on Amazon ($45) than Rock Auto, after shipping. edit: in the mean time, I put the shim back. While under there, I noticed this little guy for the first time:    Passenger front. Guess I will need to look up what that's supposed to be for. I'm wondering if it might be for the temp sensor used in the civilian models equipped with the automatic AC control, but it could be anything. In other news, the accessory kit for the multiprocess machine came in:         No tungstens, but pretty much everything else. The foot pedal is surprisingly beefy. The pedal itself is plastic, but the housing is steel. Looking forward to using it at some point. And just a stupid thing - we came across an old school 6V lantern battery flashlight while cleaning up (sadly not a vintage Radio Shack one) and I decided to open up the 6V battery. It was thoroughly dead, and I had seen long ago where people claimed to find like 8 D cells in there and stuff. I figured it was mostly bullshit, but I did discover that 9V batteries are usually 6 AAAA batteries (note that's 4 "A", not 3. I actually have a tiny flashlight that uses AAAA) so who knows? A little careful Dremel work and:   Huh. Old boy has sat discharged for more than a bit:  One of the cells removed:   I think it used to have a steel case all the way down, but it got eaten. So mystery solved. Not D-cells, but it *is* 4x 1.5V cells. Interesting. I'm not sure this is the case with the older steel-case 6V batteries, but certainly the currently available plastic ones. Sillly, but it killed a few minutes and kept me occupied. I should fit the flashlight with a big 4" LED panel and a bunch of 18650s... Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Oct 24, 2022 |
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2022 16:50
|
|