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Motronic posted:I mean, you can set emissions monitors and still not be legal in CA. So it depends on your car/what has been replaced/good luck. CA is not a fun car friendly state. I assume Jay Leno gets around it with just bags of cash, I guess.
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Sep 14, 2022 18:31
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tactlessbastard posted:I assume Jay Leno gets around it with just bags of cash, I guess. I'm gonna guess these things are running around on dealer tags because it would make the most sense to just do the licensing to be "a dealership" at that point. Also makes the buying and selling of the collection easier. I don't know how many bags of money you need for that in CA, but around here the most expensive part is "having commercial property".
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Sep 14, 2022 18:46
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 Few taps of the impact wrench on what should be a 30mm nut sure does not feel like a 30mm nut That's a brand new socket btw Edit: I got the caliper frame? Off and the cotter pin and the axle nut off both front tires but I am having a hard time getting behind the wheel hub assembly to get to the three nuts I need to unscrew because the cv joint is literally in the way. Is there an easier way to do this? GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Sep 16, 2022 |
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Sep 15, 2022 23:47
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Can you post a picture of what you’re stuck on? Your description unfortunately isn’t too clear. I’d spring for a couple new axle nuts too if you are questioning that.
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Sep 16, 2022 02:59
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Hoping for some help diagnosing a no-start issue on my wife's 2004 Frontier (3.3 v6). Two days ago, she was having a hard time getting the vehicle to start, she described it as the engine turning over, but slowly, like a discharged battery. She said it had been getting progressively worse over the last week or two (would have been nice to have known a week ago, but I digress). I replaced the battery around 6 months ago, so it seemed unlikely that this was the culprit, but I gave it a jump with a portable jump pack and it fired up with a little hesitation. Yesterday when she was going to leave work, it wouldn't start at all. We went out to her work tonight to try and diagnose- I had assumed maybe there was an alternator issue and the battery had somehow discharged, but when I checked the battery with a voltmeter, it was showing about 12.6 volts. I attempted to give it a jump anyway, and it's completely dead. Instruments light up, headlights bright, there's no indication of power issues. I did notice there was no click when I tried to start it. I would expect even if there was a power issue, there'd be at least a click, if not enough juice to crank? Am I looking at a bad starter? I don't know too much about the anatomy of a starter, is the solenoid integrated into the unit so the whole thing needs replacing, or is that another intermediate thing I can check before full replacement? Any other ideas? All fuses I could find that seemed related were intact, but is there anything specifically I should be checking? I don't have a ton of wrenching experience aside from basic stuff like oil changes, would I be getting in way over my head trying to repair myself? (I get a bit nervous if I have to tear a bunch of accessories off the engine to service it). It's going to need a tow somewhere, and I'm trying to decide between a local shop, or giving it a go in my driveway.
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Sep 16, 2022 03:44
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
nitsuga posted:Can you post a picture of what you’re stuck on? Your description unfortunately isn’t too clear. Yeah it's hard to provide any advice, Sounds like he has the caliper carrier off and is trying to undo some kind of bolts on the back of the hub. I'm not sure but I wonder if his vehicle has integrated wheel bearings and he's trying to remove that. OP google an exploded diagram for your vehicle! Also try turning your wheel to give yourself more access.
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Sep 16, 2022 03:47
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nitsuga posted:Can you post a picture of what you’re stuck on? Your description unfortunately isn’t too clear. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w58stv380vE&t=142s I'm at this part of the video. I can push the axle in, but it comes "forward" towards me on it's own. If I don't push it back towards the engine, I can't really get the socket in, or a good angle like this person did to get the wheel hub assembly out as he did (I have both sides on jack stands) I suppose I can do what this guy did here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmibqXDFZOs and just remove the knuckle entirely but I was hoping to not have to do that.
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Sep 16, 2022 04:19
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Ah, earlier you said you got the a knuckle assembly, but what I think you really meant was a hub assembly. Anyway, I think I’d go ahead and pull the knuckle. I can’t say I’ve ever really been able to pop an axle out like that. You can keep trying, but at some point you really ought to try pulling the whole thing.
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Sep 16, 2022 04:51
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SuicidalSmurf posted:Hoping for some help diagnosing a no-start issue on my wife's 2004 Frontier (3.3 v6). Two days ago, she was having a hard time getting the vehicle to start, she described it as the engine turning over, but slowly, like a discharged battery. She said it had been getting progressively worse over the last week or two (would have been nice to have known a week ago, but I digress). I replaced the battery around 6 months ago, so it seemed unlikely that this was the culprit, but I gave it a jump with a portable jump pack and it fired up with a little hesitation. Yesterday when she was going to leave work, it wouldn't start at all. We went out to her work tonight to try and diagnose- I had assumed maybe there was an alternator issue and the battery had somehow discharged, but when I checked the battery with a voltmeter, it was showing about 12.6 volts. I attempted to give it a jump anyway, and it's completely dead. Check the connections from the battery cables to the battery terminals. Then check the battery cables themselves for corrosion. This thing is almost 20 years old, so its not out of the question that one or both of the battery cables are corroded to hell and back.
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Sep 16, 2022 13:04
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Check the connections from the battery cables to the battery terminals. Then check the battery cables themselves for corrosion. This thing is almost 20 years old, so its not out of the question that one or both of the battery cables are corroded to hell and back. This, I had the wire between the solenoid and the starter corrode away on my old burban and the last time it started it barely started. On my jag I lifted, wire wheeled, and greased all the grounds and high current electrical connections and it made a huge difference in cranking speed. Anything that old would probably benefit from a good cleaning and inspection.
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Sep 16, 2022 13:20
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SuicidalSmurf posted:Hoping for some help diagnosing a no-start issue on my wife's 2004 Frontier (3.3 v6). If you have good current, and the connections are clean: turn your headlights on & try to start it. If it clicks or cranks sluggishly and the lights remain strong, you need a new starter.
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Sep 16, 2022 14:23
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Thanks. Now that I know where the starter is, I'll try and get down there with a voltmeter and see if it's getting power. Unless the power cable to the starter itself is corroded, guessing relay or solenoid since the truck appears to have power otherwise, just no click or anything when I turn the key. Edit- was able to tap it with a hammer and get it to start. Looks like I have a good oil leak that could have fouled it. SuicidalSmurf fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Sep 16, 2022 |
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Sep 16, 2022 15:55
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My wife wants a remote start for her 2019 CX-5. Based on the options from an installer with a 5.0 star rating from over 200 reviews nearby, the options are 1,000 ft range, 3,000 ft range, or unlimited with $60/year subscription. They have a disclaimer that distances are based on ideal conditions with line of sight, but real-world my wife would be in a hospital trying to start her car up to ~1,000 ft away through block walls. Does anyone have experience with how far the range is in real world applications vs. the marketing? It seems like 3,000 ft would be sufficient, but the incredibly optimistic advertised ranges on walkie-talkies makes me gunshy.
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Sep 16, 2022 19:21
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Blowjob Overtime posted:My wife wants a remote start for her 2019 CX-5. Based on the options from an installer with a 5.0 star rating from over 200 reviews nearby, the options are 1,000 ft range, 3,000 ft range, or unlimited with $60/year subscription. They have a disclaimer that distances are based on ideal conditions with line of sight, but real-world my wife would be in a hospital trying to start her car up to ~1,000 ft away through block walls. I am absolutely not a fan of aftermarket remote start kits especially on newer vehicles. They have to be hacked up to hell in order to work properly, and a lot of times they can cause issues. Newer vehicles have interesting security precautions which have to be bypassed or cut through in order to make something like this work usually.
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Sep 16, 2022 22:27
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 Great... Now what? How do I get this out?
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Sep 16, 2022 22:34
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
It's done. Order a new one. Just pull the bearing out. Once you have that out of the way you can cut it off and drill it out (be careful not to use too oversize a drill bit). Get in there with some emory cloth on a screwdrivers or something and clean up all the nastiness in there that's hanging up the sensor and give it a little spray of fluid film before you reinstall the bearing and then the sensor.
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Sep 16, 2022 22:40
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Cant tell from the photo but is there maybe flats on that for a wrench or is it a smooth circle?
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Sep 16, 2022 22:50
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I have another problem
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Sep 16, 2022 22:52
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If the ball is spinning inside , drill a hole and run a screw in. Looks like you're doing tie rod ends, too. If the socket is just stuck on there, hit with stick.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:02
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I have another problem Are you trying to do this without air tools? Try hammering a pickle fork in there.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:03
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Motronic posted:Are you trying to do this without air tools? Try hammering a pickle fork in there. Like this?  The screw is spinning inside
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Sep 16, 2022 23:07
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Like this? Yeah, although that one looks a bit too wide to grab the ball the way it would be helpful. You can also try what powershift said. What's easiest depends on what you've got around/available. But the easiest/right thing is a rattle gun. So confirm: are you trying to do this with all hand tools? Or do you have access to an air or battery impact? Because that's what you want to start with if you do.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:09
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That ball joint is much easier to get out with a ball joint kit. This is the one I used on my Leaf (which is basically an identical suspension): https://a.co/d/0dd19gF That thing above that you asked about removing is the wheel speed sensor. It’s toast. I actually had to drill mine out AND clean up the hole with a dremel because Nissan’s machining was poo poo. Edit: Nissan’s manual calls for using an impact gun. You really want one for this.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:14
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Motronic posted:Yeah, although that one looks a bit too wide to grab the ball the way it would be helpful. You can also try what powershift said. What's easiest depends on what you've got around/available. He(?) mentioned using an impact earlier but didn't specify what kind, some of them can be kind of gutless.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:15
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The only impact thing I have is a battery impact wrench and some sockets and torque wrench and such Is the bolt part in the tie rod end not supposed to spin? I got the nut almost to the end and then it just spins freely  It's a ryobi
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Sep 16, 2022 23:16
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It spins. You need a ball joint tool, I too learned that a pickle fork won’t cut it. Order new sway bar links when you’re getting new ABS/wheel speed sensors. Trust me.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:18
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GreenBuckanneer posted:The only impact thing I have is a battery impact wrench and some sockets and torque wrench and such Okay, so that's progress and you have at least some sort of impact. The "bolt part" will absolutely spin when its no longer in the taper. The idea is to use an impact to take the nut off without breaking the taper. I'm sure in places without rust this might not work. But if you have it most of the way out you can go with trying to keep tension on the ball (bolt side) with a pickle fork while you impact it the rest of the way off, you could try grabbing the shaft of the ball/bolt with something to hold it (if you're replacing it, which I assume you are), you could look to see if there is an allen or torx on the end of that "bolt" part so you can hold it and use a wrench to get it the rest of the way off, you can cut it off, you can torch it off..........all depends on what you've got and whether this part is intended to be replaced or not.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:20
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GreenBuckanneer posted:The only impact thing I have is a battery impact wrench and some sockets and torque wrench and such The threaded part is a shank on the end of a ball in a ball-and-socket connection. there MIGHT be a hex bit in the end of it, but based on your surface rust it's going to have the consistency of cheese and strip out when you touch it. I was working on my bmw once, which had 2 suspension links right next to each other. took the nut off the wrong one, put my pickle fork into the right one and broke the taper without taking the nut off, then got under the car and drilled a hole into the wrong one to stop it from spinning, and ended up having to replace both lower links on each side. Powershift fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Sep 16, 2022 |
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Sep 16, 2022 23:21
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Advent Horizon posted:It spins. You need a ball joint tool Or this if you can wait. Will make things much easier. Or try hammering it back into the taper while you impact the nut the rest of the way off......... I'm full of bad idea to use when you do'nt have the right tools because I've had to use them all.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:21
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Is there one you'd suggest here? https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/tools---equipment/mechanics-tools/chassis-tools/ball-joint-tools/445d10d12e06 I don't know what to get
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Sep 16, 2022 23:27
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when that happens to me I put a jack under the ball joint to hold some force back up in to the taper to lock it. I don't have rust seized threads though. Last option is get out the die grinder and just cut the nut off.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:28
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Under the threaded part it's a cone. When the cone pulled tight into its home its a very strong connection. Maybe put your jack under it and press it back up. It won't take much force. Just contact plus a smidgen. Don't pick the car up with it. Then tighten the nut back down. Clean all the rust off the threads with a wire brush, lube it up, and try to remove it again.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:32
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LloydDobler posted:when that happens to me I put a jack under the ball joint to hold some force back up in to the taper to lock it. This is a good idea. Also, try running the nut tighter and then loosen it again. Keep adding penetrating oil.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:33
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 Spins no matter the direction
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Sep 16, 2022 23:35
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A little more force, go for tighten only. You're jammed up in the loosen direction.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:37
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Oh, hey, the steering piece - I only got those things off with a sawzall. GreenBuckanneer posted:Is there one you'd suggest here? Performance Tool W89303 Edit: I ended up replacing everything outside the subframe. It sucked. Once I had all the parts and knew I wasn’t reusing anything I took it all off with a sawzall and it made my life much better. It sucks but that’s what happens with these things.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:39
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Right, ok, you're trying to replace a unitary wheel bearing that bolts in from the back, yes? And you need the driveshaft CV joint backed out a bit to get access onto the bolt heads for that? And you so far have removed the brake caliper and carrier, the large nut from the end of the driveshaft, and the driveshaft does have movement in/out of the hub splines? That's all good progress. Now STOP and evaluate where you are with it. There is not enough axial movement in the driveshaft to give you the access you need? So the suspension upright/knuckle with the bearing/hub attached has to come out more instead. Not all the way out, just flexed away more than it can right now. I'd remove the two bolts from the strut to upright joint to give the necessary movement. Why are you undoing the steering joint?
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Sep 16, 2022 23:41
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$150  Maybe I can return it when I'm done Anyways I'm a bit confused with the instructions, I am pushing up from the bottom of the tie rod end here. I set the impact to max speed and try to screw the nut it, but it doesn't go in
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Sep 16, 2022 23:44
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Okay, I hate to be the bearer of bad news here, but that bearing isn’t going to come out with the knuckle on the car. Mine looked better than yours and I had to put the knuckles in a vise and beat the poo poo out of them. 
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Sep 16, 2022 23:50
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GreenBuckanneer posted:$150 Where do you live? Canadian tire loans tools for free here. I know a couple parts stores in the US do too.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:52
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