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Slavvy posted:I'm looking to get a cheap road bike that can fit fatter tyres, 30-35mm would be ideal. Yeah ideally I'd want a hip old steel roadie with really big rubber but I'm looking at more modern stuff too. That looks pretty tight already. I'm my experience you're always limited more by the space above the tire before the sides. 90s to 2010s frames especially were often designed around narrow tires with tighter clearances. Excluding like touring frames but those are easy to spot because they'll usually have cantilever brakes.
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Sep 16, 2022 05:23
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Bummer, thanks for that. I'll keep searching for a unicorn 80's steel frame to put more modern parts on.
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Sep 16, 2022 05:33
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My Contend AR 3 isn't cheap, but as road bikes go, $1400 or so isn't insane. I bring it up only because I know it can fit 38's. And speaking of that... Bike question: so, my bike can take up to 38 mm tires. The wheels are tubeless ready, but stock, they come with standard 32 mm tubes with Presta valves. If I want to get some 38's, can I use these wheels, and just replace the tubes and tires, or do I need new wheels? Sorry if this is an idiot question, but... well, you've read my posts.... osker posted:The climb is 360ft over two miles pretty early on in the day. I’m pretty sure you have enough jam in your legs at that point to get her done. This is great encouragement. I appreciate it. I don't know if I want to pay a hectodollar to do this ride, but you're cool for saying this. Also, I had my roads confused. I was thinking of a much more annoying road to drive which is in that area, and one I've driven much more often. It's shorter and doesn't climb as much, but it's a lot steeper, and it's very windy with almost no shoulders. It's one of those roads where the houses near the road look like they were built by someone who didn't believe in levels and plumb bobs.
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Sep 16, 2022 06:22
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the internal width of your current wheels will come into play if you go wider, but that's only a real problem if you have very narrow wheels. do you know how wide they are?
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Sep 16, 2022 06:29
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BraveUlysses posted:the internal width of your current wheels will come into play if you go wider, but that's only a real problem if you have very narrow wheels. do you know how wide they are? I'll have to measure them, but I can't get to that until after the weekend. It's the "Giant S-R2 Disc Wheelset," and when I google that, the best info I could find was this post on Reddit. These are the bone-stock wheels that come with the bike, and they're currently fitted with 32's. I'm just musing on this idea because I may at some point want to take this bike on a ride that isn't as smooth as I'm used to. Not anything like serious off-roading, but just a fatter tire to give me a little bit more comfort if I end up on knobby gravel again.
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Sep 16, 2022 06:38
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Slavvy posted:I'm looking to get a cheap road bike that can fit fatter tyres, 30-35mm would be ideal. Yeah ideally I'd want a hip old steel roadie with really big rubber but I'm looking at more modern stuff too. A few rim brake bikes fit 30c tyres, maybe a 32c with long drop brakes but that’s the limit for road bike stuff realistically. Sounds like you want discs. For either option the Genesis Equilibrium or Croix de fer are worth a look, steel, comfy frames with good clearance.
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Sep 16, 2022 07:39
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Lol yeah nah I haven't got that kind of money. I have successfully fitted 38mm tires to a generic steel 28" wheel bike from the 80's before but it was just too small for me, I have a pair of hybrid bike brakes that reach the smaller rims easily and have good power. I will just look out for one that's in my size and not cosmetically destroyed and go from there.
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Sep 16, 2022 08:12
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Dumb question and apologies in advance for lack of pictures and wrong technical terms. My bike knowledge hasn't been updated since 2004. Bike: circa 2011 Cervelo 3T something roadbike. Problem area: bottom bracket and crank set. We dug out the old invoice, and for the BB and crank set it says: Sram FORCE Gxp Bottom Bracket Cups and bearings - ENG. 2010 SRAM Force CrankSet Chainset 53-39t - 170mm Story: it's my brothers bike, which I helped build back in the day. It developed side-to-side play in the bottom bracket, which is not entirely unreasonable given the age and mileage. A new BB was procured and fitted. Both sides of BB torqued to spec, spacers that came with BB not fitted. Result was that there was still play. We then tried to fit the spacers (one on each side, about 1.5mm each), which resulted in no play but loads of drag when spinning the crankarms. We are very unsure about how to properly tighten the bolt on the non-drive side pedal arm. Halp? Edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7EqAZo-HTI Apparently one might have to mount the non-drive side pedal arm several times. bolind fucked around with this message at 08:52 on Sep 16, 2022 |
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Sep 16, 2022 08:35
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bolind posted:Dumb question and apologies in advance for lack of pictures and wrong technical terms. My bike knowledge hasn't been updated since 2004. IIRC there are multiple configs for that BB based on what crankset you're using with various spacers included in the pack to suit. Does the manual specify a certain configuration for your crankset? e: found the manual in question: https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/user-manuals/sram-road/drivetrain/road-cranksets-and-bottom-brackets-user-manual.pdf (p20 onward) Looks like your initial config with no spacers is correct and if you're torqueing as directed it seems 'grease and go again until it's good' is the way forward. Vando fucked around with this message at 08:54 on Sep 16, 2022 |
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Sep 16, 2022 08:48
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Vando posted:IIRC there are multiple configs for that BB based on what crankset you're using with various spacers included in the pack to suit. Does the manual specify a certain configuration for your crankset? Thanks a bunch, will give it a go and report back!
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Sep 16, 2022 09:03
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tarlibone posted:I'll have to measure them, but I can't get to that until after the weekend. It's the "Giant S-R2 Disc Wheelset," and when I google that, the best info I could find was this post on Reddit. These are the bone-stock wheels that come with the bike, and they're currently fitted with 32's. Those wheels have a 17mm internal width, which is pretty narrow by modern standards. A 38mm tire would fit fine. ETRTO says up to a 54mm is safe. https://www.schwalbe.com/files/schwalbe/userupload/Images/FAQ/reifen_felgen_2020/Reifen_Felgenkombinationen_2020_EN.pdf The tire will look different based on the rim width. 
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Sep 16, 2022 12:20
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Cool! Nice to have options, even if it will look a little odd. Hell, I look a little odd every other day, so it would be perfect. Thanks!
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Sep 16, 2022 13:07
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How good a frame is the new Jamis Renegade? I'm side eyeing my Journeyman and wondering if it's worth it to buy a Sora Renegade swap all the parts over and go back to a steel frame only with TA and a carbon fork and then unload the Salsa with 'all new components'. Also it looks pretty...
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Sep 16, 2022 13:20
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Hell yeah, my bike finally came in/I was able to pick it up from Specialized! Super pumped to get back to road riding after being away from it for a few years. Not sure I'm going to get back to crits/road racing, but I can't wait to check out some of the awesome terrain around Colorado.
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Sep 16, 2022 14:38
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bolind posted:It developed side-to-side play in the bottom bracket, which is not entirely unreasonable given the age and mileage. A new BB was procured and fitted. Both sides of BB torqued to spec, spacers that came with BB not fitted. Result was that there was still play. We then tried to fit the spacers (one on each side, about 1.5mm each), which resulted in no play but loads of drag when spinning the crankarms. The initial play is concerning. This diagram was impenetrable to me the first few times I tried to understand GXP, but I hope you have better luck than me: Focus on the upper left for now. That's the NDS cup and spindle fitment. When you torque down the NDS crank arm, it pulls the spindle tight, locking that lip on the spindle against the right face of the bearing race. Closeup of the lip:  The DS bearing supports the spindle vertically, but doesn't control/limit any lateral movement at all. The dust cap just floats with a small gap in front of the bearing:  So if the NDS crank is torqued down properly, that alone should prevent any side to side play. You could not even have the DS cup installed, and you ought to feel no axial play. If you are experiencing some, that suggests something is crushed or missing on the left side of the NDS cup (it's unlikely the the lip has distorted). I'd check that out on your current install. Next part -- why did adding spacers change the drag/preload feel? Look at the spacer example in the lower left. The spacer behind the cup doesn't alter the GXP design -- you're supposed to torque down enough to pull the spindle lip tight to the NDS bearing. What is happening when you add enough spacers between the cups is that the DS side crank arm is pressing more than it should into the DS bearing, which is outside the design. That will certainly remove the play, but it doesn't solve the problem of possibly having the spindle loose on the NDS side. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Sep 16, 2022 |
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Sep 16, 2022 15:24
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EvilJoven posted:How good a frame is the new Jamis Renegade? I'm side eyeing my Journeyman and wondering if it's worth it to buy a Sora Renegade swap all the parts over and go back to a steel frame only with TA and a carbon fork and then unload the Salsa with 'all new components'. Aside from the rear dropout it looks preudamn similar to my 2018 renegade escapade, which I definitely still enjoy riding the majority of my miles on
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Sep 16, 2022 15:40
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I assume you have the wavy washer in there? Older GXP and BB30 cranks can be annoying because you just have to get a bunch of thin spacers (like the 0.5mm ones) and keep trying until it works. Current cranks mostly use a little threaded deal to adjust bearing preload now which is nice (and shimano has done that forever). But I still had to guess on spacers with the new BB on my mountain bike and should probably try again because I have one big spacer on the DS and nothing on the NDS but the chainline seems to be about right and the cranks are pretty centered as far as I can measure with a ruler so I dunno.
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Sep 16, 2022 15:55
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Slavvy posted:Bummer, thanks for that. I'll keep searching for a unicorn 80's steel frame to put more modern parts on. See if you can find an old Trek 520. That might do the trick.
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Sep 16, 2022 20:46
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Just saw the Orthopodist and after an ultrasound he says its AC Grade 3 or likely Grade 2!  Means I don't need surgery!
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Sep 16, 2022 20:56
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I just put fenders on for the first time today and that was by far the most frustrating thing I've ever done with a bike. 90% of that could have been avoided if the bolts for the pclamps were 1mm longer. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
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Sep 17, 2022 03:33
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I was looking at Pearl Izumi attack shorts to replace my pair that just gave up the ghost but everyone on REI reviews say they're not as good as they used to be. Is there a go to brand of bike short with the padding in them?
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Sep 17, 2022 19:54
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With or without straps? I strongly recommend the former, just in case this is something you haven't decided on. I also feel that there's not really a standout brand at the price point of $60-75. Everything might feel slightly off and/or won't last at this price. With that said, I'd just roll Pearl Izumi and ignore the reviews. 
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Sep 17, 2022 20:37
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Pb blaster ok on bike chains? Ran out of branded "bike lube"
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Sep 17, 2022 21:01
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Pb blaster ok on bike chains? Ran out of branded "bike lube" Absolutely not
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Sep 17, 2022 22:06
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No, those are two entirely different things that do different things to things. Dollar store lube is going to work better at lubrication than pb blaster.
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Sep 17, 2022 22:08
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PB Blaster the Product is no. PB Blaster the Brand is fine as long as it's a product actually meant to lubricate
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Sep 17, 2022 22:13
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I’m looking at bike computers. I’ve used garmins in the past, but it looks like wahoo is the other major option these days. Is there any reason not to get a wahoo if I use a garmin watch for running? Or is there any reason not to get a garmin if I’m thinking of getting a kickr trainer for zwift/training peaks?
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Sep 17, 2022 22:58
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sweat poteto posted:No, those are two entirely different things that do different things to things. Dollar store lube is going to work better at lubrication than pb blaster. Good to know, though technically PB says it lubricates. I'm guessing fluid film is also a no go?
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Sep 17, 2022 23:23
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Residency Evil posted:I’m looking at bike computers. I’ve used garmins in the past, but it looks like wahoo is the other major option these days. Is there any reason not to get a wahoo if I use a garmin watch for running? Or is there any reason not to get a garmin if I’m thinking of getting a kickr trainer for zwift/training peaks? If you're in the Garmin ecosystem with a watch for running / general tracking, then you should stay in the Garmin ecosystem.
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Sep 17, 2022 23:31
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Good to know, though technically PB says it lubricates. big no to that one too If you're in the us I'll send you a bottle of dumonde lube if you want it
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Sep 18, 2022 01:00
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I'm in the northeast
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Sep 18, 2022 01:14
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Since it was brought up, refurb Garmin 530 for $180 https://bikecloset.com/product/garmin-edge-530-noh-refurbished/
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Sep 18, 2022 02:11
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TobinHatesYou posted:If you're in the Garmin ecosystem with a watch for running / general tracking, then you should stay in the Garmin ecosystem. Wifi Toilet posted:Since it was brought up, refurb Garmin 530 for $180 Hrm. Wondering which way to go since a friend loves his wahoo. Isn’t the 530 getting pretty old?
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Sep 18, 2022 02:26
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Residency Evil posted:Hrm. Wondering which way to go since a friend loves his wahoo. Isn’t the 530 getting pretty old? The 530 runs rings around Wahoo computers in terms of processing power, but yes a 540 is due. Maybe the Roam 2 (coming this month maybe) will have modern components, but I have zero faith in Wahoo's hardware engineering. They took Speedplay pedals and made them less reliable somehow. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Sep 18, 2022 |
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Sep 18, 2022 03:04
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For what it's worth, on gravel rides with heavy tree cover the wahoo head units lose the course/get turned around in a bad way.
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Sep 18, 2022 03:35
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osker posted:For what it's worth, on gravel rides with heavy tree cover the wahoo head units lose the course/get turned around in a bad way. If you even think about putting another radio anywhere near a Wahoo ELEMNT Bolt v1, it loses its GPS fix. This includes any action cameras and ANT+ enabled lights, which would commonly be placed directly underneath. No idea if they fixed that on the Roam and Bolt 2...
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Sep 18, 2022 05:35
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osker posted:For what it's worth, on gravel rides with heavy tree cover the wahoo head units lose the course/get turned around in a bad way. What tends to happen with mine is that the unit loses GPS and assumes a straight line between where I was and where I am. That straight line is probably not the case, of course. My wife has a Wahoo unit BUTTTTT she also has a speed sensor on her front wheel and that somehow helps the head unit to not gently caress it up. There's a ~64 mile ride we do regularly with heavy tree cover and two tunnels making up 1.5 miles one way and she tends to have over four miles more on her unit than I do.
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Sep 18, 2022 06:13
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If you want a Wahoo so bad just get one, what's one more app on your phone? It really depends what you want out of it though. I have a 6 year old Garmin Edge 25, the (2nd) cheapest dumbest unit they ever made. It picks up my sensors, accurately tracks every ride and the battery has held up. That said, I don't care for complicated readouts of 500 stats during my rides. Cadence, speed and distance are enough, and I can read into the rest over a beer when I am done. If that lines up with your use case understand that all the hype and cool marketing videos of fit dudes getting real time ride data and crushing PBs isn't going to do anything for you, as emotionally compelling they might be when you are trying to select a product.
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Sep 18, 2022 12:53
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Love this Wahoo chat cuz I've never once had radio problems with my gen 1 ELEMNT and then this morning it took multiple hours to get a gps lock and then dropped again later and missed half of my first race today. Neat.
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Sep 18, 2022 20:03
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Agreed with Tobin - if you already have a Garmin watch, literally no reason to not get a Garmin GPS unit. Also, getting a Garmin watch won't prevent you from using the trainers, etc. Its mostly all integrated so it doesn't really matter (you're also likely not going to be running the GPS unit while doing a trainer workout.
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Sep 18, 2022 23:28
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